Thanks Dave and Joel for your suggestions—easy to check with multimeter or 
without.
I can’t remember how long it’s been since I replaced the pump/switch so I doubt 
it’s the wiring which has been securely zip-tied to my centerboard pennant 
‘tube’ for the same unknown years.
Charlie


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On Monday, April 8, 2024, 10:08 AM, Dave S <syerd...@gmail.com> wrote:

Use a multimeter to measure resistance, +12v to  ground, from the load (pump) 
side of the breaker, with the breaker open, and the float switch open.   It 
should show infinite resistance.  If it shows very low or no resistance, you 
have a short.  Disconnect the pump/switch.    If the problem persists, it’s not 
the pump, it’s the wiring.  
If there IS infinite resistance, then close the switch.   You should see the 
motor’s resistance.  If you see zero resistance, the Pump has likely developed 
a short.  Change the pump.  Similarly, You can also disconnect the pump, and 
measure the wiring and the pump’s resistance separately.  Same idea.  
Dave Ex 33-2 

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On Apr 7, 2024, at 10:09 PM, cenelson--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:



My bilge pump breaker has recently started to disconnect immediately after 
being switched on.
I suspect my rule pump has failed and developed a short to ground although it 
might be a wire that has either shorted or it might be the water witch float 
switch.
My thought is to just replace the pump and see if that does it—I have an 
identical spare pump on board. BTW, I never rely on the float switch when away 
from the boat—so this breaker is always off unless I am on board. 
Other suggestions from listers are welcome.
Thanks,
Charlie NelsonC&C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom


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