-Caveat Lector-

On 30 Mar 2003 at 0:03, daisy meme wrote:



[When we finally made it to Safwan, Iraq, what we saw was utter chaos.
Iraqi men, women and children were playing it up for the TV cameras,
chanting: "With our blood, with our souls, we will die for you Saddam."

I took a young Iraqi man, 19, away from the cameras and asked him why
they were all chanting that particular slogan, especially when
humanitarian aid trucks marked with the insignia of the Kuwaiti Red
Crescent Society, were distributing some much-needed food.

His answer shouldn't have surprised me, but it did.

He said: "There are people from Baath here reporting everything that
goes on. There are cameras here recording our faces. If the Americans
were to withdraw and everything were to return to the way it was before,
we want to make sure that we survive the massacre that would follow as
Baath go house to house killing anyone who voiced opposition to Saddam.
In public, we always pledge our allegiance to Saddam, but in our hearts
we feel something else."]



Exclusive: 'Terrified of Saddam Hussein'
Essam Al-Ghalib, Arab News War Correspondent
http://www.arabnews.com/Article.asp?ID=24481

UMM QASR/BASRA, 30 March 2003 - Four days ago my friend, Mohammed
Al-Deleami and I were invited by Abdul Rahman Almotawa, a journalist at
our sister publication Asharq Al-Awsat, to accompany him on a trip
organized by the Kuwaiti Ministry of Information to report on the
humanitarian relief effort at Safwan, an Iraqi town at the Kuwaiti
border.

I jumped at the opportunity to get past the Kuwaiti Army checkpoint at
Mutla', which was the biggest obstacle keeping me from entering Iraq. As
we raced to catch up to the convoy heading out of Kuwait, I told
Almotawa that if the opportunity presented itself for us to break away
from the ministry's convoy once we got into Iraq, that we should, as
such an opportunity may not present itself again.

When Mohammed and I left our hotel, we had no idea that that would be
exactly what happened. We were ill-prepared for we had nothing but our
gas masks, which we carried everywhere, the clothes on our backs, my
cameras, a satellite phone, a Kuwaiti mobile and laptop.

After 75 minutes of driving in a manner likely to get me arrested in
most countries, we were able to catch up to the convoy as it passed
through the dreaded checkpoint at Mutla', where we had been turned back
several times in the days before.

When we finally made it to Safwan, Iraq, what we saw was utter chaos.
Iraqi men, women and children were playing it up for the TV cameras,
chanting: "With our blood, with our souls, we will die for you Saddam."

I took a young Iraqi man, 19, away from the cameras and asked him why
they were all chanting that particular slogan, especially when
humanitarian aid trucks marked with the insignia of the Kuwaiti Red
Crescent Society, were distributing some much-needed food.

His answer shouldn't have surprised me, but it did.

He said: "There are people from Baath here reporting everything that
goes on. There are cameras here recording our faces. If the Americans
were to withdraw and everything were to return to the way it was before,
we want to make sure that we survive the massacre that would follow as
Baath go house to house killing anyone who voiced opposition to Saddam.
In public, we always pledge our allegiance to Saddam, but in our hearts
we feel something else."

Different versions of that very quote, but with a common theme, I would
come to hear several times over the next three days I spent in Iraq.

The people of Iraq are terrified of Saddam Hussein.

I broke away from the hundreds of people literally climbing over one
another and fighting to get a box of the rations being distributed. What
ended up happening is that the weak and the elderly who needed the food
most were getting nothing, whereas the young and fit were getting up to
six boxes each.

I broke away from this disgusting scene and wandered into the desert to
take some pictures of the elderly and young children picking through the
heaps of trash, having given up on getting any of the rations, searching
for food. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw a British Army convoy
driving through Safwan heading north being followed by one, then two,
then three SUV's marked "TV".

I ran back to Arab News' SUV and yelled at Abdul Rahman and Mohammed to
get in. Of course, they asked why I was screaming at them like a mad
man. I explained that the opportunity to get into Iraq was driving away
from us.

I turned to Abdul Rahman and said: "Decide right now. Are you in or
not?"

He thought of his wife and children and how volatile and unpredictable
the situation in Iraq and working with me could be, and opted to stay.

My friend, Mohammed Al-Deleami, jumped right in without hesitation.

We caught up to the convoy of TV crews and army vehicles and just drove
behind them. Within minutes we were on an Iraqi freeway, with signs
directing us to Umm Qasr, Basra and Baghdad.

I was ecstatic. We were in Iraq.

I turned up the music and started dancing in my seat as I looked in the
rear-view mirror for pursuing ministry vehicles, but could see none.

The TV vehicles broke away from the army convoy and started following
the signs for Umm Qasr. Once we got to Umm Qasr, I really started to
worry for the simple fact that we had absolutely nothing. I looked at
the TV crews in front of me. They were a mountaineering and camping
superstore on wheels. They had cookers, boxes of food, sleeping bags,
tents, generators, warm clothing, flashlights, bulletproof vests,
jerry-cans full of petrol, virtually everything they needed to live in
the desert for weeks.

As we drove along the freeway approaching Umm Qasr, we could see several
burned out Iraqi civilian and military trucks. There were people walking
along the side of the road waving at us, some motioning with their hands
for us to stop and some made gestures indicating they needed food and
water. Being Muslims, Mohammed and I wanted so much to help them; but we
had no food or water.

As I slowed down to speak to some of these children, my Kuwaiti mobile
rang. It was my editor in chief, Khaled Al-Maeena. He couldn't believe I
was in Umm Qasr. I handed my phone over to a young Iraqi boy aged maybe
nine, and asked him to yell into it where we were. He yelled, "Umm
Qasr," then asked me again for food and water.

I told him we would be camping in Umm Qasr and that if he found us I
would get him some food and water from the other crews in our convoy. My
editor was thrilled.

We decided to make camp in front of what used to be a hotel and rest
stop just off the freeway, which was occupied by a Scottish brigade of
the British Army. We spoke to the brigade commander in charge and he
explained that Umm Qasr was relatively safe but had been encountering
pockets of resistance from various individuals belonging to the Baath
party.

He said that we were not allowed to stay in the camp as we were not
"embedded" with the British troops, but we were welcome to set up camp a
few yards outside the fence of the "hotel". He promised that if we were
in any danger, his troops would immediately come to the rescue.

Once in Umm Qasr, Mohammed and I made our way around to the TV crews
that were there and introduced ourselves. We struck up an unspoken deal
where I would provide them with English/Arabic translation for their
interviews with the Iraqis and they would provide Mohammed and I with
food, water and warm clothing to help sustain us.

As night fell, we set up camp, ate and tried to go to sleep. As we
started to dose off, a loud explosion went off very near to us, and a
lighting flare shot up into the sky bathing the area in a yellow-orange
light. Apart from the bright light, nothing seemed out of the ordinary.

An hour later, several more explosions followed by flares lit up the
area. One kilometer away, Mohammed spotted several people on foot
running around with what appeared to be rifles. We were starting to get
really worried, because we didn't know what was going on. In the far
distance we could see the occasional flash of a light and a loud bang.
We assumed it was the battle for Basra.

(Part II tomorrow)



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