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>http://opinionjournal.com/extra/?id=95001194 > >MIDEAST DISPATCH > >Whooping It Up >In Beirut, even Christians celebrated the atrocity. > >BY ELISABETTA BURBA >Saturday, September 22, 2001 12:01 a.m. EDT > >BEIRUT--Where were you on Sept. 11, when terrorists changed the world? >I was at the National Museum here, enjoying the wonders of the ancient >Phoenicians with my husband. This tour of past splendor only magnified >the shock I received later when I heard the news and saw the reactions >all around me. Walking downtown, I realized that the offspring of this >great civilization were celebrating a terrorist outrage. And I am not >talking about destitute people. Those who were cheering belonged to >the elite of the Paris of Middle East: professionals wearing >double-breasted suits, charming blond ladies, pretty teenagers in >tailored jeans. > >Trying to find our bearings, my husband and I went into an >American-style cafe in the Hamra district, near Rue Verdun, rated as >one of the most expensive shopping streets in the world. Here the >cognitive dissonance was immediate, and direct. The café's >sophisticated clientele was celebrating, laughing, cheering and making >jokes, as waiters served hamburgers and Diet Pepsi. Nobody looked >shocked, or moved. They were excited, very excited. > >An hour later, at a little market near the U.S. Embassy, on the >outskirts of Beirut, a thrilled shop assistant showed us, using his >hands, how the plane had crashed into the twin towers. He, too, was >laughing. > >Once back at the house where we were staying, we started scanning the >international channels. Soon came reports of Palestinians celebrating. >The BBC reporter in Jerusalem said it was only a tiny minority. >Astonished, we asked some moderate Arabs if that was the case. >"Nonsense,"said one, speaking for many. "Ninety percent of the Arab >world believes that Americans got what they deserved." > >An exaggeration? Rather an understatement. A couple of days later, we >headed north to Tripoli, near the Syrian border. On the way, we read >that Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat, who donated blood in front of >the cameras, was rejecting any suggestion that his people were >rejoicing over the terrorist attack. "It was less than 10 children in >Jerusalem,"he said. > >In the bustling souk of Tripoli we started looking for the Great >Mosque, a 1294 building with a distinctive Lombard- style tower. But in >that labyrinth, nobody spoke anything but Arabic, which we don't >speak. Finally, in a dark shop, we found an old gentleman who knew >French. His round white cap showed that he was a devout Muslim. >Leaning on his stick, he managed to get on the street and with most >exquisite manners gave us directions. Common decency survives all. > >Once at the mosque I donned a black chador, but our Lonely Planet >guide attracted the attention of a hard-looking bearded guy all the >same. "Are you Americans?"he asked in a menacing tone. Our quick >denial made him relax. He gave us the green light to go in. But very >soon afterward we were again approached, by a fat young man. He turned >out to be one of the 350,000 Palestinians who live in Lebanon, >unwelcome by most of the population and subject to severe hardships. >Hearing we were Italians, first he recited like a prayer names of >Italian soccer players. We were relieved at first that he wanted to >talk about sports, but he soon moved on to politics and the "events." > >"My people have been crushed under the heel of American imperialism, >which took away our land, massacred our beloved and denied our right >to life. But have you seen what happened in New York City? God >Almighty has drawn his sword against our enemies. God is great--Allah >u Akbar,"he said. > >I heard these appeals to religion so often that I needed some >theological help. "How can God do evil?"I later asked an Arab friend, >a businessman with an international background. "According to what I >learnt in my catechism, God lets evil happen. He doesn't do it,"I >said, and he answered: "The Koran has the same teaching, but blood >calls for blood." > >What about compassion? I asked, pointing out that Jesus had turned the >other cheek. Isn't Allah also always called the Merciful? "He is, but >when a people has been begging for a piece of land for 52 years and it >has experienced only bloodshed, what can you expect?"But the victims >of the World Trade Center were civilians, I insisted. "In the new >intifada, 500 Palestinians have been killed. America didn't give a >damn, so why should Muslims care now about those who died in the twin >towers? It's hard, but that's the way they see it." > >I couldn't help it. I kept remembering how a day earlier, in Germany, >Chancellor Gerhard Schroeder had talked about clash of civilizations. > >On Thursday night, in the Christian northern part of Beirut, we heard >some loud noises. "Probably they are celebrating the attacks,"someone >told us when we asked. > >You mean the Maronite Christians are also celebrating? I asked. > >"Yes, they also feel betrayed by the Americans." > >On Friday, the national day of remembrance for the victims in Europe >and the U.S., I was relieved to see that the Christian church in the >Sahet Aukar district was packed with people holding a candlelight >vigil. Less comforting was the thick barrier of soldiers and >checkpoints that protected the church. > >Heliopolis, in the Bekaa Valley, was the Sun City of the ancients. >Nowadays it is called Baalbek. Near its lavish temples stands the >stronghold of the Hezbollah, the Iranian-backed Shiite Party of God. >Along the clean alleys that lead to the Hezbolla's stronghold there >are hand-made posters of bearded young men. "They are martyrs," >explained a well-dressed, cultivated Arab man who had just gotten out >of his Mercedes. "They fought until victory: the withdrawal of Israeli >occupants. So they became a model for the all Arab world." > >Weren't they terrorists? we asked. > >"Terrorists? What about the Israelis who kill women and babies?" > >In the seven days we spent in Lebanon, we saw one young Arab woman >with teary eyes. "The stories of the victims touched me,"she said, >and I began to regain my trust in humanity. Then she added: "But in a >way I am also glad, because for once the Americans are experiencing >what we in the Middle East go through every single day." > >Back in Italy, I received a phone call from my friend Gilberto Bazoli, >a journalist in Cremona. He told me he witnessed the same reactions >among Muslims in the local mosque of that small Lombard city. "They >were all on Osama bin Laden's side,"he said. "One of them told me >that they were not even worthy to kiss his toes." > >Ms. Burba is an Italian journalist. > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! 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