-Caveat Lector-

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>http://opinionjournal.com/extra/?id=95001194
>
>MIDEAST DISPATCH
>
>Whooping It Up
>In Beirut, even Christians celebrated the atrocity.
>
>BY ELISABETTA BURBA
>Saturday, September 22, 2001 12:01 a.m. EDT
>
>BEIRUT--Where were you on Sept. 11, when terrorists
changed the world?
>I was at the National Museum here, enjoying the
wonders of the ancient
>Phoenicians with my husband. This tour of past
splendor only magnified
>the shock I received later when I heard the news
and saw the reactions
>all around me. Walking downtown, I realized that
the offspring of this
>great civilization were celebrating a terrorist
outrage. And I am not
>talking about destitute people. Those who were
cheering belonged to
>the elite of the Paris of Middle East:
professionals wearing
>double-breasted suits, charming blond ladies,
pretty teenagers in
>tailored jeans.
>
>Trying to find our bearings, my husband and I went
into an
>American-style cafe in the Hamra district, near Rue
Verdun, rated as
>one of the most expensive shopping streets in the
world. Here the
>cognitive dissonance was immediate, and direct. The
café's
>sophisticated clientele was celebrating, laughing,
cheering and making
>jokes, as waiters served hamburgers and Diet Pepsi.
Nobody looked
>shocked, or moved. They were excited, very excited.
>
>An hour later, at a little market near the U.S.
Embassy, on the
>outskirts of Beirut, a thrilled shop assistant
showed us, using his
>hands, how the plane had crashed into the twin
towers. He, too, was
>laughing.
>
>Once back at the house where we were staying, we
started scanning the
>international channels. Soon came reports of
Palestinians celebrating.
>The BBC reporter in Jerusalem said it was only a
tiny minority.
>Astonished, we asked some moderate Arabs if that
was the case.
>"Nonsense,"said one, speaking for many. "Ninety
percent of the Arab
>world believes that Americans got what they
deserved."
>
>An exaggeration? Rather an understatement. A couple
of days later, we
>headed north to Tripoli, near the Syrian border. On
the way, we read
>that Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat, who donated
blood in front of
>the cameras, was rejecting any suggestion that his
people were
>rejoicing over the terrorist attack. "It was less
than 10 children in
>Jerusalem,"he said.
>
>In the bustling souk of Tripoli we started looking
for the Great
>Mosque, a 1294 building with a distinctive Lombard-
style tower. But in
>that labyrinth, nobody spoke anything but Arabic,
which we don't
>speak. Finally, in a dark shop, we found an old
gentleman who knew
>French. His round white cap showed that he was a
devout Muslim.
>Leaning on his stick, he managed to get on the
street and with most
>exquisite manners gave us directions. Common
decency survives all.
>
>Once at the mosque I donned a black chador, but our
Lonely Planet
>guide attracted the attention of a hard-looking
bearded guy all the
>same. "Are you Americans?"he asked in a menacing
tone. Our quick
>denial made him relax. He gave us the green light
to go in. But very
>soon afterward we were again approached, by a fat
young man. He turned
>out to be one of the 350,000 Palestinians who live
in Lebanon,
>unwelcome by most of the population and subject to
severe hardships.
>Hearing we were Italians, first he recited like a
prayer names of
>Italian soccer players. We were relieved at first
that he wanted to
>talk about sports, but he soon moved on to politics
and the "events."
>
>"My people have been crushed under the heel of
American imperialism,
>which took away our land, massacred our beloved and
denied our right
>to life. But have you seen what happened in New
York City? God
>Almighty has drawn his sword against our enemies.
God is great--Allah
>u Akbar,"he said.
>
>I heard these appeals to religion so often that I
needed some
>theological help. "How can God do evil?"I later
asked an Arab friend,
>a businessman with an international background.
"According to what I
>learnt in my catechism, God lets evil happen. He
doesn't do it,"I
>said, and he answered: "The Koran has the same
teaching, but blood
>calls for blood."
>
>What about compassion? I asked, pointing out that
Jesus had turned the
>other cheek. Isn't Allah also always called the
Merciful? "He is, but
>when a people has been begging for a piece of land
for 52 years and it
>has experienced only bloodshed, what can you
expect?"But the victims
>of the World Trade Center were civilians, I
insisted. "In the new
>intifada, 500 Palestinians have been killed.
America didn't give a
>damn, so why should Muslims care now about those
who died in the twin
>towers? It's hard, but that's the way they see it."
>
>I couldn't help it. I kept remembering how a day
earlier, in Germany,
>Chancellor Gerhard Schroeder had talked about clash
of civilizations.
>
>On Thursday night, in the Christian northern part
of Beirut, we heard
>some loud noises. "Probably they are celebrating
the attacks,"someone
>told us when we asked.
>
>You mean the Maronite Christians are also
celebrating? I asked.
>
>"Yes, they also feel betrayed by the Americans."
>
>On Friday, the national day of remembrance for the
victims in Europe
>and the U.S., I was relieved to see that the
Christian church in the
>Sahet Aukar district was packed with people holding
a candlelight
>vigil. Less comforting was the thick barrier of
soldiers and
>checkpoints that protected the church.
>
>Heliopolis, in the Bekaa Valley, was the Sun City
of the ancients.
>Nowadays it is called Baalbek. Near its lavish
temples stands the
>stronghold of the Hezbollah, the Iranian-backed
Shiite Party of God.
>Along the clean alleys that lead to the Hezbolla's
stronghold there
>are hand-made posters of bearded young men. "They
are martyrs,"
>explained a well-dressed, cultivated Arab man who
had just gotten out
>of his Mercedes. "They fought until victory: the
withdrawal of Israeli
>occupants. So they became a model for the all Arab
world."
>
>Weren't they terrorists? we asked.
>
>"Terrorists? What about the Israelis who kill women
and babies?"
>
>In the seven days we spent in Lebanon, we saw one
young Arab woman
>with teary eyes. "The stories of the victims
touched me,"she said,
>and I began to regain my trust in humanity. Then
she added: "But in a
>way I am also glad, because for once the Americans
are experiencing
>what we in the Middle East go through every single
day."
>
>Back in Italy, I received a phone call from my
friend Gilberto Bazoli,
>a journalist in Cremona. He told me he witnessed
the same reactions
>among Muslims in the local mosque of that small
Lombard city. "They
>were all on Osama bin Laden's side,"he said. "One
of them told me
>that they were not even worthy to kiss his toes."
>
>Ms. Burba is an Italian journalist.
>



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