I agree with, well, almost everything. I build several items using Numitrons (specifically) IV-9 (of which I have a hoard of them), but I don’t use 595’s to drive them, but I don’t remember specifically why I chose a diff driver. Well, you’re supposed to use them.
Instead, I use TCL5916 TLC5916 data sheet, product information and support | TI.com<https://www.ti.com/product/TLC5916> It’s specifically an LED sink driver. Single resistor sets current draw on the LEDs / Numitron connected. I guess it’s just a preference. Michail Wilson 206-920-6312 From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com <neonixie-l@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Mark Moulding Sent: Saturday, April 2, 2022 12:24 PM To: neonixie-l <neonixie-l@googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] New to arduino and nixie projects, looking for advice I agree fairly strongly with Pramancin - I think Numitrons would be the way to go. They are exceedingly rugged (originally used in fighter planes, among many other applications), long-lived (10,000+ hours at maximum brightness, converging to infinity at reduced drive voltages), and are very easy to drive. I've built both clocks and dashboard instruments with nothing more than the Numitrons (or the Russian clones - IV-9 and IV-16,), a string of 74HC595s as the output port expander, direct-driving the tubes, and whatever processor I was using at the time (some were AT89C4051s, some were AVRs - Arduinos, but on my own circuit board). You might be giving up the charm of fully-formed digits, but in exchange, in addition to the points above, the Numitrons are brighter (easily sunlight-readable), can be filtered to any color, and you can produce a surprisingly workable alpha-numeric character set using the seven segments. There is no high-voltage generator or circuitry to worry about either - just the 5-volt logic supply. I used a bunch on a Burning Man art car, and that's where I suffered the only failure I've ever had, when an errant beer can hit the tube full on. It still worked for a little while even with the envelope broken (this was at night, so I had the brightness way down). ~~ Mark Moulding On Friday, April 1, 2022 at 4:43:51 PM UTC-7 Codi Wiersma wrote: Thanks for the suggestions. I have an in tank speedo that I was going to recreate the case, and add some extra supports, with tpu from my 3d printer. That, combined with a minimally vibrating bike (Yamaha stratoliner), do you think I'll still have issues? On Fri, Apr 1, 2022, 3:56 PM Nicholas Stock <nick...@gmail.com> wrote: You could use numitrons instead, they're a lot more vibration resistant, but not the same charm as a nixie ...... On Fri, Apr 1, 2022 at 12:51 PM Bill van Dijk <theold...@gmail.com> wrote: Hi Codi As a long time biker and Nixie guy, I would like to give you some advice. The severe vibrations of a motorcycle WILL destroy any nixie in very short order. As great as the project sounds now, you will be disappointed with that. Sorry, Bill v From: neoni...@googlegroups.com [mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Codi Wiersma Sent: Friday, April 01, 2022 1:43 PM To: neonixie-l <neoni...@googlegroups.com> Subject: [neonixie-l] New to arduino and nixie projects, looking for advice Hello! As the subject says, new to both arduino and nixie tube projects. I'm looking to make a Hall Effect based speedometer for my motorcycle, and I'm hoping to get some advice. Looking for a 3 tube set up for speed, and maybe a 5 or 6 tube set up for an odometer, and was curious if I have enough connections on an Elegoo Uno to run that many tubes? If not, could I run programs on two different Unos using inputs from the same sensor? I'm unsure on the first question, but I'm fairly certain there wouldn't be an issue with the second. Thanks! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. 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