Grounding is important, and there is no way to "see" where those
electrons are going, or not going. I had one 2-ton truck that had
worked around alkali dust. There was not a good ground in that thing
from one end to the other. Every piece of metal in the chassis and
frame was corroded/insulated from the next. I ran a piece of copper
tubing (that's what I had) from front to back that was my ground.
To answer your question, I connect the ground of the battery to the
top mounting bolt of the starter, and use thick cable. I have used
recycled braided welding cable when available. That usually helps a
6-volt system.
================================================================
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Goins"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> New to this group and need some help. I have a '50 3600 with the
> original 6 volt system. Would barely turn over to crank when I got
it,
> so I replaced the battery with a new one. Same thing. Very slow to
> turn over, but when it catches, runs fine and sounds great. The
216 is
> strap grounded to the frame and the cables on it look to me like
they
> aren't original. Could this be most of what I am having a problem
with
> here? The ground is bolted to the frame (tight), but it should be
> going to the engine, right? I have new cables (bigger ones - came
with
> the truck as replacements). Is it as simple as replacing the
cables
> and getting a solid ground? Trying to set up the truck as a daily
> driver (or at least as a backup vehicle) so reliability is
important.
> Assume it should spin fast like any other vehicle if all
is "right."
> Any help appreciated.
>
> Mike
>
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
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