I agree Nate, if you are going to make adjustments to advance mechanisms you should have at least an adjustable timing light. We are finding that 24 to 28 degrees total @ 2800 RPM is a good range for both V/8's and Sixes. Remember 14 dist. is 28 crank degrees. We have also found on rebuilt engines we have to jet up slightly to eliminate the slight ping due to increased compression more efficient exhaust systems. Have fun. Lee Prosser WA ----- Original Message ----- From: vwnate1 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 9:17 AM Subject: *Possible SPAM* [old-chevy-truck] Re: Maximum Ignition Timing Advance
Steve ; That spec. is for the _mechanical_ advance part of your dizzy , most also have some vacuum advance plus of course the ball bearing timing mark is a few degrees BTDC . What you need to discren is : _total asvance , all in , of al the variables and this is easy so find , takes a specail tool though ~ a timing light with the advance dial on the back of it ~ I use a SEARS Crafstman inductive one I paid $50.00 for 20+ years ago and it's still going strong . I'm told they're on E-bay for abot $20.00 . Or , you can time it the way GM says to : warm it up and time it , take a drive , on flat , lever road in top gear @ 35 MPH , tramp the foot feed to the floor ~ if you hear any ping , stop and retard the timing a tiny bit and try again ~ keep on doinf this untill the ping stops and you're good to go . It's simple , not rocket science , it looks yo me like you're makiing this way too complicated . -Nate --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hello, all, I mentioned on a few accasions about the sometimes pinging > I would be getting when climbing grades, or accelerating too fast. I'm > using the Malory Unilite Electronic distributor---uses an infrared > sender and receiver. No more dwell, no more pitted burned braker > points, none of that no more, I've been happy with it for about a > year. I learned here, but for anyone out there who may also need to > know here it is. I purchased the Unilite, I love it, everyone has an > LMC book its #36-2929. Works great. You all who always read know I > have a little irk with a pinging issue. > I purchased at Oreily's the advace curve kit, don't think LMC has it. > It comes with the various springs you can readjust the advance curves > to however you likings, I'm not messing with that. I'm not that > smart. But also it comes with the keys to adjust the maximam amount of > advance you are getting. LMC article says Malory has calibrated it for > the curves for normal driving conditions (springs). Yet I found that > you must yourself adjust the max on the advancement of time yourself. > The LMC book & Malory stuff with the Unilite doesn't inform you of that. > I guess maybe I'm just not the smartest, I know a lot of people know a > lot more than me, but I try. My shop manual has specs for mechanical > advance of the distributor--it had a vacuum unit on the original, so I > guess the original did both vacuum and some mechanical advance. The > mechanical advance in the specs says 12 to 14 degrees max of > crankshaft whatever. Well the unilite has adjustment screws and the > kit advance kit has the keys to set the proper mechanical advance based > on my specs. My specs say 12-14 degrees. The Unilite was maxed out all > the way to 0 degrees. They don't calibrate and adjust this for you. > So it could advance way further than it is supposed to according to my > shop manual specs. I had to pull it out to loosen the hold down screws > for the advance plate, unfortionatly. One seemed to feel about 100 > foot pounds tight. Whatever, they appeared with my glasses on to be > 3/16 allen screws----so said Malory after a phone call, this tight > screw. But found it was these crappy torx screws used for the hold > down 8-32, real small. Don't rely on who you call for info. Anyway > the adjustment is made, I only have to put it in tomorrow, it will > advance at least 50% less than it was, you know I have been mentioning > the pinging thing in a few prior articles. I will soon see, and so far > I think I may have solved my own problem. Anyway, I'm boring, but this > is out there for everyone to see. Steve -- > ColumbusGA,FtBenningGA,PhenixCity,AL----59 Fleetside Apache 235 > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/