[lace] Tatting Shuttles

2014-06-11 Thread Sue Duckles
Hi All

I've just learned that Roseground here in the UK have produced a commemorative
shuttle for WW1 - blue shuttle with a poppy , clouds and what looks like three
little birds! in flight.   £2.75 +pp

I've ordered one!!!  I'll let you all know when it arrives!! LOL

Sue in East Yorkshire where it's sunny at the moment!!
My Tatty Blog http://pigminitatty.blogspot.co.uk/

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Re: [lace] Tatting Shuttles -- old post found while cleaning up

2005-06-12 Thread susan
thanks for the suggestion.  i have already started my wood tatting
shuttle and finished it all but the middle.  it is not very pretty, but
i am sure some sand paper and some acrylic paint and varnish will hide
most of the little mistakes.  

i filed 3/8 inch x 2 inch thick board that was cut to about 2 1/2
inches or 3 inches long down with a rasp and a fine file, so i didn't
do any fancy cutting. it looks a lot like most tatting shuttles, but i
have more of an arch than i should have.  once it is done it will be
fine. 

your idea would be great if you could use those cheap tea or herbal
bags to cover them.  just drop the ball into the bag and pull the
little drawstring and the thread would be protected for awhile.  

thanks for your help.

from susan 

--- Joy Beeson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 You don't need a tatting shuttle at all -- it's not so much a tool as
 a way to keep the thread wound up and clean, and make it easier to
 handle.  I use a shuttle because a ball of thread would be very hard
 to slip between your fingers, and you'd keep dropping it, whereupon
 it would unwind and roll across the floor.  Bare thread would also
 get very dirty and worn, because fine thread is used up very slowly,
 and would be passed through your hands many times before being
 incorporated into the lace.
 
 When I wanted to make a trivet out of cotton mason's line, I made a
 shuttle out of the twine itself, by winding it into a skein and
 securing it with its own tail. I kept track of the beginning so that
 I could pull the skein from the center.  
 
 I strongly *don't* recommend using anything thicker than DMC #10
 cordonnette (which is a trifle thinner than other 10/6 threads) for
 practice, and twice that, don't use cabled twine!  
 
 i saw a simple tatting shuttle that i think i will imitate and make
 with some thin veneer.  it is just a flat oval with pointed tips,
 one
 end near the top has a small half circle cut out of it,and on the
 other
 side on the opposite end there is another small half circle cut out
 of
 it.  it looks easy to unwind and easy to make.  
 
 The flat shuttle I prefer has a sort of keyhole-shaped notch at one
 end, and a horseshoe-shaped hole at the other end, leaving a spike to
 wrap the thread around.  You wind back and forth, going through the
 notch to the other side, around the spike, back to the notch on the
 same side, turn it over and repeat.  I cut mine from the side of a
 bleach bottle, and it's handy for string that's too coarse for the
 standard shuttle.  (While Googling for something else, I recently
 found some pictures of netting shuttles of similar construction.)
 
 
 i don't really understand the tatting shuttles, but i have never
 seen
 one.  i saw how to make them, and i understand the directions, but
 how
 does the thread unwind from in the middle?   how does the thread
 come
 out of the shuttle when you need to unravel it? 
 
 When a shuttle is just right for the thickness of thread you are
 using, you have to pull to make the thread pop between the tips, but
 you don't have to pull very hard.  The tips of a shuttle for fine
 thread will press together more firmly than the tips of a shuttle for
 coarse thread.  It should take enough force to pop the thread between
 the blades that you can hang the shuttle from the thread when you
 want to unsnarl it, but not so much force that you risk breaking the
 thread or damaging the shuttle.
 
 The hard part of winding is getting the end to stick to the post: 
 some posts have a hole through which you can tie the thread; other
 posts are raw wood so that if you can get a wind or two over the end,
 it will hold.  Holding the thread under tension, bring it to one pair
 of tips, pop it between them, and still under tension bring it to the
 other pair of tips.  The rounded edges of the blade should guide the
 thread into the gap.  You can stick a fingertip inside the largest
 shuttles to hold the end of the thread for the first few winds.
 
 If a shuttle has been abused, or if it is made of cheap plastic like
 the Boye shuttles that used to be available everywhere, the tips may
 develop a slight gap.  Such a shuttle can be used for very coarse
 thread:#1 cordonnette, Speed-Cro-Sheen, and Lily Double Quick are
 good for the first steps in learning -- too coarse to practice with,
 but you can see how the knots are forming.  
 
 Cut off about three yards, mark every twelve inches, dip every other
 interval in bluing or whatever stain is handy, let dry thoroughly,
 then rinse it to make sure the dye doesn't come off on your hands,
 dry again, wind on a cheap shuttle.  (If you have access to
 variegated thread, dyeing isn't necessary.)  When the parts of the
 knot are different colors, it is easer to see what you are doing.
 
 -- 
 Joy Beeson
 http://home.earthlink.net/~joybeeson/
 http://home.earthlink.net/~dbeeson594/ROUGHSEW/ROUGH.HTM 
 http://home.earthlink.net/~beeson_n3f/ 
 http://www.timeswrsw.com/craig/cam/ (local weather)
 

[lace] Tatting Shuttles -- old post found while cleaning up

2005-06-11 Thread Joy Beeson
You don't need a tatting shuttle at all -- it's not so much a tool as a way to 
keep the thread wound up and clean, and make it easier to handle.  I use a 
shuttle because a ball of thread would be very hard to slip between your 
fingers, and you'd keep dropping it, whereupon it would unwind and roll across 
the floor.  Bare thread would also get very dirty and worn, because fine thread 
is used up very slowly, and would be passed through your hands many times 
before being incorporated into the lace.

When I wanted to make a trivet out of cotton mason's line, I made a shuttle out 
of the twine itself, by winding it into a skein and securing it with its own 
tail. I kept track of the beginning so that I could pull the skein from the 
center.  

I strongly *don't* recommend using anything thicker than DMC #10 cordonnette 
(which is a trifle thinner than other 10/6 threads) for practice, and twice 
that, don't use cabled twine!  

i saw a simple tatting shuttle that i think i will imitate and make
with some thin veneer.  it is just a flat oval with pointed tips, one
end near the top has a small half circle cut out of it,and on the other
side on the opposite end there is another small half circle cut out of
it.  it looks easy to unwind and easy to make.  

The flat shuttle I prefer has a sort of keyhole-shaped notch at one end, and a 
horseshoe-shaped hole at the other end, leaving a spike to wrap the thread 
around.  You wind back and forth, going through the notch to the other side, 
around the spike, back to the notch on the same side, turn it over and repeat.  
I cut mine from the side of a bleach bottle, and it's handy for string that's 
too coarse for the standard shuttle.  (While Googling for something else, I 
recently found some pictures of netting shuttles of similar construction.)


i don't really understand the tatting shuttles, but i have never seen
one.  i saw how to make them, and i understand the directions, but how
does the thread unwind from in the middle?   how does the thread come
out of the shuttle when you need to unravel it? 

When a shuttle is just right for the thickness of thread you are using, you 
have to pull to make the thread pop between the tips, but you don't have to 
pull very hard.  The tips of a shuttle for fine thread will press together more 
firmly than the tips of a shuttle for coarse thread.  It should take enough 
force to pop the thread between the blades that you can hang the shuttle from 
the thread when you want to unsnarl it, but not so much force that you risk 
breaking the thread or damaging the shuttle.

The hard part of winding is getting the end to stick to the post:  some posts 
have a hole through which you can tie the thread; other posts are raw wood so 
that if you can get a wind or two over the end, it will hold.  Holding the 
thread under tension, bring it to one pair of tips, pop it between them, and 
still under tension bring it to the other pair of tips.  The rounded edges of 
the blade should guide the thread into the gap.  You can stick a fingertip 
inside the largest shuttles to hold the end of the thread for the first few 
winds.

If a shuttle has been abused, or if it is made of cheap plastic like the Boye 
shuttles that used to be available everywhere, the tips may develop a slight 
gap.  Such a shuttle can be used for very coarse thread:#1 cordonnette, 
Speed-Cro-Sheen, and Lily Double Quick are good for the first steps in learning 
-- too coarse to practice with, but you can see how the knots are forming.  

Cut off about three yards, mark every twelve inches, dip every other interval 
in bluing or whatever stain is handy, let dry thoroughly, then rinse it to make 
sure the dye doesn't come off on your hands, dry again, wind on a cheap 
shuttle.  (If you have access to variegated thread, dyeing isn't necessary.)  
When the parts of the knot are different colors, it is easer to see what you 
are doing.

-- 
Joy Beeson
http://home.earthlink.net/~joybeeson/
http://home.earthlink.net/~dbeeson594/ROUGHSEW/ROUGH.HTM 
http://home.earthlink.net/~beeson_n3f/ 
http://www.timeswrsw.com/craig/cam/ (local weather)
west of Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A.
where it's been too hot for several days.

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[lace] tatting shuttles/ bobbin lace

2005-05-24 Thread susan
hello lace makers,

i have a question about tatting shuttles i hope someone will help me
with.  do they hold as much thread as a bobbin and can they be used for
bobbin lace making?  and how do you make one? 

 there are some beautiful handpainted ones on
www.lace-bobbins.co.uk/tatting.htm.

thank you

susan

from susan in tennessee,u.s.a.



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