I have the same problem waiting for warmer weather before painting my deck. In
my case, the minimum temperature needs to be above 50 F.
In your case, the Keel surface needs to be above 40 degrees F but 50 is better
for this stuff to cure properly. If it drops below that at night, the curing
Hi Bob and Charles,
Thanks for the quick reply! It looks like my initial plan good. I'll go
clean the crack and apply gflex once she weather is warmer. For now all I
can do is dream a little.
I'm in Halifax, NS on the east coast of Canada.
Cheers
On Thu., Jan. 21, 2021, 23:34 CHARLES SCHEAFFER,
Congrats on the boat. Where are you located?
That's the smile mentioned. The broken teeth is just filler or fairing
material that broke off. I've seen much worse.
You can use an angle grinder with an 80 grit flap disc (40 grit if you have
skills) to gently remove the high spots and loose
Hi Juliano,
that's not too bad. Many boats get similar cracks. They occur where the keel
is joined to the hull. You definitely want to clean it up and fill in the
divots. You'll get many responses on this topic so I'll let others chime in.
Bob
> On 01/21/2021 9:47 PM Juliano Franz via
Hi all,
My first time messaging the list.
A couple of months ago I came by a C 25 that was neglected (aka
abandoned) for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat onwing and
have been learning a lot on how to get her ready following Casey's "This
old boat" and some youtube channels.
There
FWIW, I'm getting the sprit just to have more fun sailing downwind. I find my
34R sails upwind very fast but wants more sail area downwind and I'm thinking
the asym will answer that need and a sprit will make it fly better and project
the luff further out so I can sail deeper downwind than if
My local PHRF will not penalize me either if the asym area is not larger than
my Sym masthead kite.’—as long as the sprit is < 30” more than the spin pole
length IIRC.
I don’t know what it will do with my VMG downwind (and neither do they!) but it
could make it possible to fly the asym kite
I like wedges. I think they would help with positioning the mast. Allianna
does not have wedges but her mast is well supported and thats most
important to me
On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 12:33 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I don’t know how you can beat the Spar-Tite,
Like your enthusiasm
On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 9:50 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> My mast had a mix of wooden and rubber wedges and the wooden wedges were
> cracked and needed to be replaced.
>
> Rig-Rite sells mast wedges but they are too small and too
Top Down Furlers look like the way to go, especially for Solo sailing.
I ordered the sprit first. My Asym can be converted since it's an A3, which
research indicates is a good shape for converting to a furler. I have a sock
for now so I thought I'd see how the new sprit and sail work first.
Should be at least same adjustment as adding oversized spin pole
From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: January 21, 2021 4:05 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Randy Stafford
Subject: Stus-List Re: Sprits and Asyms
Hi Chuck G,
No, Ranger guy didn’t take a PRHF hit - which shows one of the many problems
Thanks Bill, As you may know, the Selden kit is fastened to the deck by
padeyes. Based on your comment, I might position an additional padeye for the
sprit so it sticks out 12% J (21" for my boat) just for racing, and another to
have the pole extend to maximum unsupported length which should
He does look a little distraught . . . .
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2021 3:03 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Re: adding pictures to posts
Bob,
The best way is through Flickr, Google Drive or Dropbox
Our PHRF-LE has allowed a certain percentage, no more that 12% of J for a
sprit, or extended bow roller to be used as a sprit with no penalty.
ARE YOU AWARE THAT PHRF-LE has
recognized there is some sail-handling difficulty
at the forestay & bow pulpit when flying an
asymmetrical
Hi Chuck G,
No, Ranger guy didn’t take a PRHF hit - which shows one of the many problems
with PHRF in my RSA. For his rating with the asym, our scorer and handicapper
just used his spinnaker rating as if he was flying a symmetrical.
Yes if your son stays out here this summer, there are
Bob,
The best way is through Flickr, Google Drive or Dropbox account using links.
Like this photo of C Yachts designer Rob Ball checking out the Enterprise in
Mystic, likely thinking “What did this geek do to my great design?":
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pdlqr438yyab1c9/Ball.png?dl=0
What's the best way to show pictures of what we're talking about? Is there a
place to post them, separate from the list? Can pictures be attached to posts?
Bob Mann
Mystic
'71 C 35 mk IThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want
>From a different Chuck:
Randy,
Did the Ranger dude take a rating penalty for the sprit? Also, if my son stays
out in Colorado this summer between semesters at CSU, you’ll have access to an
awesome bowman with tons of Asym experience (as well as conventional). He’ll
be looking for a ride
Nice, Edd...or a Calvin and Hobbes-developed transmogrifyer? Sorry.
*Chuck Saur*
517 490-5926 Cell
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution --
I recommend a Mark XII Transporter with pattern enhancers, a matter-stream
target lock, as well as both the Heisenberg Compensator and all bio filters
enabled.
Energize….
(Be honest, you were expecting this response from me….)
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship
Chuck did you get a furler for your asym? A top-down furler? Guy in my club
got one (and an asym) for his Ranger 28 last season and immediately kicked my
ass with it. Takes him about a minute to furl his upwind sail, unfurl the
asym, and start accelerating.
He built a homemade bowsprit and,
I’d be interested in how your new sprit changes your PHRF rating.
I have thought about adding a sprit as well for limited crew racing or cruising
and the Seldon looks well engineered.
In my case, my anchor roller complicates the matter in terms of fitting the
sprit pole but the rating hit is
Highly recommend Jim Burt at Great Lakes Marine Transport. In Port
Washington, WI.
https://www.greatlakesmarineservices.com/ourteam.htm
Jim did a stellar job moving my boat from Georgia to Michigan's UP.
*Chuck Saur*
517 490-5926 Cell
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the
Was not going to weigh in as I have a different boat and don’t know the wedge
configuration of yours. My 33-2 has one shim each side and a forward and aft
wedge, and a hook on each side of the mast that engages the through deck
fitting.
The wedges fall into place when the mast is stepped and
Just FYI. The spar tite is installed with the mast in.
On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 12:07 PM Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Thank you all for the quick replies. I have no leak issues around the deck
> opening, observed after some heavy rain this winter. The wedges also
I have had SparTite for ages, I would never go back to wedges. A couple things
to keep in mind:
It isn’t waterproof forever, use a boot too.
It is urethane molding compound, you can buy it from other places for less.
Do a good job with the clay, it makes a mess when it leaks into the cabin. Not
My two cents: Spartite looks like the best solution however it still needs a
boot to protect from UVs and the price is too high for me. Similar to
PropSpeed, it's a good product but too much money for the benefit offered.
I'm not cheap. I just ordered a Selden bow sprit kit. Very expensive
Thank you all for the quick replies. I have no leak issues around the deck
opening, observed after some heavy rain this winter. The wedges also appear to
be in good shape—just loose. Perhaps I’m hearing from above they may be too
small or the wrong shape? Charles, I’ll ping you for what to look
I don’t know how you can beat the Spar-Tite, having dealt with both.
You can form a drip-edge on the top outer portion to eliminate leaks – (I
learned this after the fact!)
And Yes, if you are not pro-active, they can be difficult to remove. This can
be easily determined with a Square, and if
My mast had a mix of wooden and rubber wedges and the wooden wedges were
cracked and needed to be replaced.
Rig-Rite sells mast wedges but they are too small and too expensive for my
needs. One wedge was $20 and I needed at least eight of them.
I found a rubber wheel chock at Harbor
Me neither- 30-1 #593
Gary
From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2021 7:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Nelson
Subject: Stus-List Re: loose mast wedges
I've never had any issues with my wedges moving. I make my own and give the
heads a bit more
"lip".
I've never had any issues with my wedges moving. I make my own and give
the heads a bit more
"lip". Perhaps mine have less taper than pre-made ones, as that's the
only thing I could think of
that would cause them to work upwards. Gravity is supposed to be our
friend.
Wedges are pretty
I have the spar tite and it is a tight fit. They instruct you to use
Vaseline as a release agent and no issues have been encountered with taking
the mast out
On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 1:23 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> The damned things are my nemesis. My 30 MK
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