On my 39LF above the companion way is a area where I mounted the wind, speed,
depth, and theboil press, temp, and fuel guages. I can't see the numbers but I
can see the needle which is all I need. When they are not in the usual place I
know something is wrong. Doug Mountjoy sv Rebecca Leah C &
Sounds like a great idea—I look forward to list ideas. One key is to place
gauge where it can be seen easily—on the engine control panel is not ideal
considering the contortions one must endure to read anything in most engine
panels placed down low and with barely enough room to get your head
Ericson and Camper Nicholson also used glassed-in stainless steel
chainplates that can be a major pain to replace. My 35-2 appears to be
leak-free at the chainplates, but this thread has me thinking I need to
check them again. The only leak we've had lately is the centre stand-up
block behind the
Funny - I’ve found I can tell by the exhaust note when the raw water cooling
flow is restricted. When it stops (belt slippage) the engine sounds like a
motorbike I once owned.
This method (or the more scientific exhaust water temp sensor) would not detect
an issue on the engine coolant side
It’s interesting to see how the chainplate attachment progressed over time.
The post ‘84 boats seem to have solved this issue. (I own a 33-2). When I
was originally boat shopping I checked the chainplates in each (corvettes,
various 35s, and 33,34, 33-2. Issues or prior repairs in the
Mike,I installed a tee for the overheat sensor. Then install a temperature
sender for a guage. I mounted the temp guage, and an oil press Guage in the
cockpit. I also added a sensor on the exhaust hose just after the mixing elbow.
This sets off an alarm. But no light. It goes off at 200* f. For
I don't know if chainplate deterioration is unique to the C 36 but I
know of two 36's at our club that had the chainplate pullup through
the deck under sailFYI.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.
*From:* Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List
*Sent:* Wednesday, October 27, 2021 11:24 AM
A light or alarm sensor is a switch that is open or closed. A sensor for a
gauge is a variable resistor. You will likely need another sensor for a gauge
or a combo sensor with both terminals.
Joe
Coquina
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2021 1:37 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
The existing temperature light is run by a simple dedicated temperature
switch. You would have to tee off the port and add a thermistor. Pipe
fittings are easy and the gates usually come with MIP threaded sensors.
Just add signal wire from the gage to the sensor.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989
Has anyone installed a dedicated temperature gauge on a yanmar engine similar
to 3GM30F? Can it be as simple as attaching to the sender unit that goes to
the idiot light on the control panel?
When a panel alarm goes off I usually shut down the engine immediately and
forget to check which lamp
Chainplate leaks, rot, and corrosion are pretty endemic to almost all boats,
not just 36s and certainly not just C
Pacific Seacraft uses external bronze chainplates that will never have those
issues, but that only works on very narrow boats. Island Packet is (in)famous
for glassing over
https://cruisingconcepts.com/cockpit-grates-floorboards/
I had a custom made 4 inch high stand made for behind the wheel on my
35MKII. It allowed my wife to see forward over the companionway while at
the helm and it took the exposed top end of the rudder post out of play. I
used jatoba wood
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