Dave,
First thoughts are that it's an in-water repair. Removing a transmission
usually means pulling it aft a few inches to clear the connection
between the engine and transmission, so you should be able to do this by
sliding the prop shaft back just a few inches. It does depend on the
My boat has the same cabin sole, otherwise no where as much as all that
on the topsides. I certainly don't have teak and holly in the head!
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 5/20/2024 12:12 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
Was this stock? I cannot recall seeing any
Glen,
I installed a Groco strainer, mounted it low on the forward bulkhead in
the Lazarette under the starboard seat. Just screwed the mounting
fixture to the bulkhead and ran hoses from the thru hull to the strainer
and from the strainer to the raw water pump. //I used two 90-deg bronze
Dean,
I switched from the original Barient to Lewmar ST winches, the 35-1 has
them mounted on the raised cockpit coaming top where access is pretty
good underneath, no liner, plus the coaming top has wood sandwiched in
it, maybe 3/4" thick or so. It just happened that the old and new holes
My 35-1, probably the same time frame, has that same arrangement, galley
sink drains to the starboard cockpit drain. I have replaced the hoses
and thru hull fittings but used the same arrangement 10 years ago, so
far so good.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 2/8/2024 5:38 PM,
Stu,
Our deepest sympathies for your loss. You've been such a help to so
many C owners over the years, and we are deeply indebted to you and
Gladys for all you've done both for the List and in attending the many
rendezvous. Be assured of our support in such a difficult time.
Neil
I put a Plastimo 26 gal tank in place of the original fiberglass tank
under the port settee just this summer, so can't say how it will be
long-term but am very happy with it so far. Before installing I ground
down the various rough edges in the space and put a plywood platform
under the
Joe,
Funny you should bring that up, as I've just made several trips back to
the transom down the port side to replace the exhaust hose. I must say
it took me a bit of doing, had to remove the fuel fill and blower hoses,
just barely fit through the opening, but with strategic twists and
David,
This may be a long shot, but on a Universal M3-20B that I installed on a
club launch, and I think all Universals, the fuel pump gets its power
under normal running conditions via an oil pressure switch. When
starting the engine, the glow plug switch energizes the electric fuel
pump in
I have had two similar issues with A4:
1. Coil overheats: shuts engine down after running heavily for hour or
so, then restarts normally after sitting for half hour. Moved the coil
off the engine, has never happened since.
2. Sudden and complete shut down while running normally: found
I'm in the process of replacing my original A4 control panel as it has
basically disintegrated. It had the "C Yachts" logo engraved on it,
does anyone happen to have a CAD file, .dxf or similar, available for
use to recreate it in a CNC or engraving machine? (I apologize as I
think this
Same here, Weatherly turns 50 this year.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 1/25/2023 10:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
Coquina is 50 this year. Who else do we have at or past the
half-century mark?
*/Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35 MK I/*
Please show your
Steven,
Pretty sure you don't risk having the keel fall off without the forward
bolt, as I said I have plans that show only the six larger bolts. I'll
try to get a scan of the large print to put on a Google drive. Appears
to me an after the fact addition to address the smile.
My mast
Joe,
Yes, we're talking about just the small bolt forward. I think you could
do this without taking the mast step out, bit tight but there's no
connection between the bolt/wood and the step. You could just use glass
cloth, but I wanted the thickness of the fiberglass board, particularly
Steven,
I did leave the old wood in there. Was a decision I had to make and
wasn't sure what was the best approach, but yes, I enclosed it with the
pieces I installed. I thought the fiberglass would be strong enough. I
didn't have a backing plate on the bolt, just the washer, but after I
Steven,
Your photos are causing me to have flashbacks... I dealt with this very
issue shortly after I got my boat: when I tightened that keel bolt I
heard a crunching sound and the washer under the nut sank about a 1/2"
before I realized what was going on.
Yes, there is wood beneath the
Joe,
My 35-1 has a 6:1 purchase on a Harken traveller, and I have to pull
reasonable hard to get the boom tight in any kind of breeze. I don't
think a 4:1 would do it. That said, in light airs the 4:1 would be
nice. Maybe you could use 6:1 but drop it to 4:1 in light airs, which,
having
When I first torqued the forward-most keel bolt, the 3/4" one, I heard
some crunching sounds and found out there's wood under the top
fiberglass layer below the keel bolt, inside the deep V of the lower
hull. Pretty sure it's the same under the others farther aft. It was a
tedious repair,
My info might be a bit old but when I bought my boat it had been in
Somerset Marina for 3 yrs on the hard. It was marginal for a 35'
sailboat, could only launch at high tide, had to bring in an outside
crane to hoist a mast more than 50'. On the other hand it was a good
place for DIY, they
On small diesels the tach gets its information from the alternator, it
uses the frequency of the alternating current, proportional to the
alternator's RPM, before the current goes through the rectifiers to be
converted to DC. This could mean the electrical connection on the
alternator for
Joe,
I have the system you're describing. Just a plain 6:1 through a cam
cleat on a Harken traveler car with continuous control line. It's
great, I can sail from the windward rail just like a dingy, wheel in one
hand and sheet or traveler in the other.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen
Drum:
Base 7.0" dia
Top: 6.0" dia
Rope Drum: tapered, 3.5" dia widest at bottom.
Let me know if you need more info, I have one apart in my garage.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 7/13/2022 2:22 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
Does anyone know the drum diameter of
Dennis,
Interesting. My local marine, Safe Harbor (ex Brewers) just last year
required all boat owner to list the marina as a covered entity on their
insurance policies to the tune of $500,000 liability coverage. My
insurance did that a no cost, but I was kind of wondering how it would
in
Price drop by 50% in 7 months.
https://moreboats.com/boats/c/39-ne/154741
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 11/7/2021 11:36 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
https://www.boattrader.com/boat/1985-c-c-39-northeast-7277234/
The price seems amazingly (or maybe
My experience with the Tacktick, now Raymarine wireless is that it's
really nice when it works, but I've struggled with it since I installed
it about five years ago. I know others on the list have had good
experience with it (we've discussed this on the list in the past), but
while all the
. What kind of
batteries are you charging?
Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA
*From:*Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
*Sent:* Tuesday, September 14, 2021 8:24 PM
*To:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
*Cc:* Neil Gallagher
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: A4 Alternator
Joe,
Thanks, that's
likely to get more than 50-60 amps out of
any alternator you put on there.
*/Joe Della Barba/*
Coquina
C 35 MK I
*From:*Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
*Sent:* Tuesday, September 14, 2021 6:31 PM
*To:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
*Cc:* Neil Gallagher
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re:
Joe,
Also a bit of thread creep, but I'm in the process of rebuilding or
replacing my alternator on the A4. Does the Balmar fit on the engine
without significant modifications?
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove NY
On 9/14/2021 2:31 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
I have a
News in the marine business world:
https://www.maritime-executive.com/article/stolen-yacht-sent-distress-signal-and-disappeared-in-hurricane-larry
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 9/12/2021 8:19 AM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:
List member John noticed a posting on
eliminated.
No offense taken – most of the time people do miss these things.
We haven’t torn things down too far yet. Any way to check for a
sticking governor?
Dave
Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
Windows
*From: *Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <m
Dave,
Sure sounds like a fuel issue. The governor does not restrict flow, it
sets the rotation of the plungers in the HP pump which controls how much
fuel in delivered to the injectors. The fuel not used or which leaks by
the pump plungers is what returns to the tank. Under light load
Dwight:
A friend has a Universal in his boat, and he had the same exhaust leak
problem. What he didn't realize was that the water also leaked backed
in to the cylinders, and froze up his engine. You might want to look at
that, apparently it's a common occurrence with a leaking exhaust
Dave,
Hearing about Pathfinder takes me way back, haven't heard a word about
her or the other STV's in decades. I sailed on her during three summers
in the early '70's, was a wonderful experience. Thanks for the link, sad
to see it retired.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On
I'm quite interested in this question as well, I bought a Raymarine
Quantum 2 and am debating how to mount it. Supposed to be safer
regarding zapping people.
Garhauer makes a nice looking stern-mount radar mast, it allows you to
set the angle when on a tack, not a gimbal. But they told me
Doug,
I run messenger lines in place of my halyards for the winter and this
past winter the parachute cord I use for the main halyard sings like a
guitar string in very gentle breezes. When I tighten it up it changes
pitch. Willing to bet somewhere you've got a vibrating line, as others
Joe (and any other 35-1 owners),
I've looked at that as a sealer inside the deck ring at the partners,
and I'm wondering how you managed to plug the bottom of the ring. On my
boat there's almost no clearance between the head's longitudinal
bulkhead and the mast, were you able to work clay
Lee,
I'd suggest you take a look at the carburetor, stuff tends to grow
there. I had a similar situation over a long winter layup and found,
believe it or not, spider webs in the carb. It's not too hard to take
out the main jet, spray down with carb cleaner and blow everything out.
Neil
Josh,
Did you happen to get a look at the broken bolt looking across the face
of the break? Good possibility it was a fatigue failure which occurs at
stresses well below the breaking strength, in which case you can
sometimes see the "beach marks" as the failure works its way across the
Josh,
Not quite sure I got this right, are these horizontal bolts into the
side of the engine or vertical to the boat? In either case, though, the
bolts and plate are carrying the load - most of which is the thrust
loading of the propeller through the mounts and driving the boat - by a
Glen,
I installed a Rule electric bilge pump that sits in the after part of
the bilge and discharges into the port forward cockpit scupper drain
hose just under the cockpit sole (opposite the scupper with the sink
drain). A check valve is a good idea with this arrangement, even though
the
Joe,
Just idle speculation but it's about 400 mi one way from New York Harbor
to Kingston via the Hudson River/Erie & Oswego Canals and crossing Lake
Ontario, so add the 300 mi or so one way from the Chesapeake to NYC you
are talking over a 1,200 mi round trip, but you don't have to go past
George Hazen was a naval architect who worked at C, but was also well
known for his naval architecture software. In the video at the end he
discusses his C experience, quite interesting.
https://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/2021/01/08/eight-bells-george-hazen/
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Matt,
I found one of the original backup (I think it was original, a piece of
plywood inside the hull and a mushroom type thru hull) was actually
loose when I bought the boat, so I replaced them all but the two drains
from the aft cockpit. Those have been on my list for years, someday
I'll
Edd,
I've been using this, these things are awesome. There's a bronze ball
inside the end that goes into the can, shake it a few times and it
starts to flow, almost faster than you could pour it out.
Keel bolt torque on the hard or in the watera classic on Stu's
List. I’ll jump in….
Torquing keel bolts in the water is equivalent to tightening the head
bolts on an engine while it's running, probably not a good idea. Bolted
joints are intended to be initially preloaded by tightening
Hi Stu,
I've been working with Fusion 360 for for toolpath generation a few
years, after trying Solidworks and Mastercam, and I find it much more
intuitive and pretty easy to use. It's published by Autodesk, who sells
Autocad, and it's free if you're not using if for commercial work. Be
Hi Chris,
Your mast compression post issue is a slightly different version of what
many C of your vintage have experienced. My 35-1 has basically that
same construction to support the bottom of the mast: a stack of plywood
lightly encased in fiberglass that spans the bilge at the turn of the
Here's my solution:
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=147043
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 3/29/2020 8:51 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 7:29 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Charlie,
My solution
Joe,
I am remiss it actually trying mine, but how does behave when
back-driving the quadrant with the wires/chain/wheel? Is it difficult
to turn?
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 3/20/2020 1:11 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
Fortunately the 35 MK I tiller is
Bruce:
This stuff has worked great for me all over the boat, especially under
my primary winches.
https://www.mcmaster.com/8537k26
The trick to using it is to cut it with a jig saw using a diamond grit
blade for masonry or hard tile. Regular jig saw blades don't last more
than 30 sec in
Tom,
Not sure how close your rig is to mine, but on mine the lowers are
attached to a tab that's integral with the spreader bracket. The tab,
angled outwards to match the angle of the lower shrouds, is part of the
flat plate that's screwed to the side of the mast and on which a tube is
Olivier,
Let me add a little info regarding the engine/gear/prop question.
Assuming a 19% higher gear ratio, if you can run the engine at 19%
higher RPM you will have identical performance of the prop/hull, as the
prop RPM will be the same. That means the power demanded by the prop is
Ian,
I've had my A-4 out and back in twice since I bought the boat. In my
experience you're on the right track, some timber under the engine to
slide it forward under the companionway. My only addition was a chain
fall hung from a 4x4 over the companionway to take most of the weight
and to
s-Tacktick
FWIW,
I had one om my 35/3 without issue.
Joel
On Thu, Dec 19, 2019 at 2:18 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Not trying to redirect the thread, but since you raised the topic
of Tacktick, I've been meaning to see what the list's respo
Not trying to redirect the thread, but since you raised the topic of
Tacktick, I've been meaning to see what the list's response to this
might be.
I've had Tacktick (Raymarine) wind system for about 5 years, and I've
added inputs from GPS, speed/depth, so have a fair bit invested in the
A friend of mine was chairman of the Western Long Island Sound PHRF
committee, and he told me that across the country the PHRF committees
give certain boats the same base rating, kind of yardstick boats, so to
speak, so all the committees will be working to the same reference. The
C 35 Mk 1
David,
When I bought my 35-1 the raw water thru hull valve was flopping around
(boat was on the hard). The original installation had just a small
piece of plywood between the flange and the inside of the hull which
came loose. I epoxied a piece of 1/2" thick McMaster Carr g-glass on
the
http://www.canals.ny.gov/navinfo/index.html
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 11/27/2019 9:28 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:
The controlling depth is “supposed” to be 12’.
Good luck with that, at least in the spring. I made the trip upbound
for the second time last year.
I've done several trips on the NY State canals, they really are a
working museum, well worth the investment in time/money. You can rent
40' canal boats in Albany, travel in style for a weekend or week-long
trip. The Champlain Canal is really nice, through the Adirondacks to
Lake Champlain.
Shawn,
This arrangement allows the use of a starting type battery, which can
deliver high current loads for short time but is not intended be drained
significantly, on the starting bank, and deep-cycle type which are
intended to drain down to much lower level over a longer time, on the
I just dealt with this issue this summer, and wound up using this approach:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7650/Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_120A
The switch actually has three positions, Off, On and Combine. In On,
the house and starting circuits are isolated, in Combine they are
connected. It
Chuck,
My 35-1 with an A4 is wired that way, though without the connectors.
Appears to have been that way for 40+ years. At least Universal is
consistent. Not sure I see a particular problem with it (without the
connectors), as long as the wire size to/from the ammeter is adequate
for the
Some of us (ahem...) more senior lister's may remember when Lands' End
was a boating supply mail order catalog. They made the switch in the
late '70's to clothing, lot more$$ to be made, it appears.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 9/17/2019 3:02 PM, jim aridas via CnC-List
that the standing rigging will fail before
the chainplates do. I don't know about you but I have plenty of other
boat projects that are more worthy of my money.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 10:15 AM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc
Dan,
Grade 316 stainless is about two to three times as strong as aluminum,
it varies a lot depending on what grade Al you're using. (Some numbers:
utlimate tensile strength of 316 SS is about 84,000 psi, aluminum
6061-T6, a common marine alloy, is 42,000 psi) SS is also less prone to
Dave,
Interesting question for me, as just a few days ago I installed an ACR
and have been watching the voltage on the house bank, (alternator output
is to the starting bank only) by which I can see when the ACR combines.
It seems to be at about 13 to 13.2 volts, so it does sound like your
Dave,
I had the exact scenario you describe happen to me, but even when diving
I couldn't see anything in the intake. I wound up taking the hose off
the through hull fitting, opening the ball valve and when no water came
in, pushing a screw driver down to clear the weeds.
Neil Gallagher
Dennis,
You have me interested, as I don't think my 35-1 has any type of
brackets, and the bulkhead does squeak in any significant seaway. I'd be
quite interested in pictures. (I was told by a former 35-1 owner the
solution was beeswax on the bulkhead.)
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen
When I bought my 35-1 it had been sitting in a yard for 3 years, and
pretty much neglected by the owner. The biggest issue was water inside
the boat, presumably after the battery died the bilge pump stopped
draining whatever came in, and the boat had an inside waterline a foot
above the cabin
Tom,
I've spent a few nights at Block Island for the last several years on my
cruises. The situation with the town moorings is first come/first
serve, no reserving. It reminds me of trying to find a parking spot in
NYC, at 7 - 8 am you cruise around the mooring field looking for someone
Nathan,
If your Admiral panel is like the one on an M3-20B, and I'd bet it is,
the oil pressure switch also provides electrical power to the fuel lift
pump, once the engine starts running. If your oil switch is not closed,
the fuel pumps stops. It may run for a few minutes on what's in the
Dennis,
I'm quite interested as I'm getting a bit of slop on the rudder stock as
well.
One thought: I like your last suggestion of a plastic bearing instead
of bronze. Bronze, while softer than stainless for sure, could
potentially cause some wear on the stock, and it might be better to
Jeff,
Many 35-1 owners have had to do the mast step job, and each will
probably have a different approach. Mine was as follows:
There's a stack of plywood layers under the aluminum casting that span
the bilge sump with a thin layer of glass over it all. My approach was
to cut out the
Shawn,
My 35-1 has about 4 inches of shaft between the strut and the front edge
of the prop. Maybe the 35-2 has a different placement of the strut and
prop than the 35-1, but I would agree whats on that boat seems a bit
longer than desirable. Can't quite tell from the photo but it appears
Agreed on the topping lift, I use a spinnaker halyard since the end of
the whisker pole is farther outboard than the spinnaker pole, slightly
less inward pull on the pole but probably doesn't make too much
difference. The topping lift allows better control of the sail, IMHO,
especially in
Not sure where you're located, but here's a 36.
https://longisland.craigslist.org/boa/d/stamford-cc-36-boat-for-sale-1978/6849185510.html
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 4/1/2019 10:33 AM, Bruce Roland via CnC-List wrote:
I am interested in finding out just a ball park
Not sure about other areas, but in my area (Western LIS) PHRF limits the
whisker pole length to LP without time adjustment. If you use a
J-length spinnaker pole as a whisker pole in non-spinnaker events, then
you get a 3 sec credit. And you do need a band on the whisker pole if
it's
To add to the previous replies, I have a mid-boom preventer (think it
came with the boat, it's old) that has two "clamp" devices that each fit
around one side of the boom and have a lip that reaches down into the
bolt rope slot on top of the boom. They both are shackled to a 4:1
tackle that
Dennis,
Just a thought here, when I looked at my system, which is what you have
in the top link of your email, if I were adding a stop I'd consider
hanging something off the underside of the aft cockpit sole rather than
building up the whole partial bulkhead as was done in the factory.
Tom,
I can get a torque wrench and I have the sockets, if you'd like to
borrow them. Contact me off list.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 2/6/2019 9:18 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List wrote:
Hi listers,
First of- thanks for all of your suggestions for rebuilding my
My hull number, in the photos, is #202, July '73.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 1/29/2019 1:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Yep. I wonder what hull number they made the design change? touche'
is #83.
Dennis C.
On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 10:54 AM schiller via CnC-List
plates through bolted for movement and cushioning makes sense.
Also, what size are the fasteners that hold the plates to the
quadrant? 1/4 inch?
No hurry. I won't start this project until early March.
Dennis C.
Touche'
On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 12:55 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
mailto:cnc
Dennis,
Here's some pics, and yes, the stbd side wire is a PO kludge, - the wire
clamps, eye bolt, etc. Your thread's got me looking at it, time to add
it to the project list.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4yE5o2R9T5ZxEDCy7
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 1/24/2019 11:47 AM,
Dennis,
Thanks for the info, I'm going to have to look into my steering, also
most likely also 47 yrs without an overhaul.
I note two differences between your system and mine:
- instead of bolts through the chain to limit the travel, mine has an
aluminum plate bolted to the underside of the
I have the same situation: fixed and handheld both with DSC. From my
MMSI certificate:
/
//All radios and other MMSI-requiring equipment (such as AIS units)
permanently associated with the vessel should use the same MMSI. The
MMSI number willremain with that vessel and its equipment
Joe,
Lifeline replacement is high on my list for this spring, so let me ask a
question. I have two lines each side, the upper passes through
relatively large eyes on top of the stanchions while the lower passes
through holes barely bigger than the wire diameter, drilled through each
Jeremy,
Some wind indicator systems have a separate direction gauge which show
an enlarged scale for wind angles from 0 (ahead) to, say, 60 deg for use
when going to windward.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 11/29/2018 12:10 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List wrote:
What the
Tim,
While I haven't had to change out the strut, I've removed/reinstalled
the engine a few times (don't ask), and used your basic approach: shaft
sliding easily in the bearing and centered in the log, then set the
engine flange to the shaft flange while on the hard. Checked it after
Jim,
Not sure how this would play out on a 26, but I had to replace the mast
step on my 35-1, and while simple in theory, was not quite so easy to
do. Basically pull the mast, chop out all the old step support and
replace. The support was a glassed-over stack of plywood that spanned
the
Splicing double-braid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UghIS9xdiDw
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 11/8/2018 1:44 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List wrote:
Yes, I was planning on asking about the Halyard Knot as well. I too
have never heard of it ? This is a great Link !!
I
My version of this is to use two ascenders on a tight line, one with two
foot loops attached, and the other attached to a bosun's chair. I also
have a halyard attached directly to the bosun's chair. While my wife
keeps tension on the halyard, I alternately step up using one hand and
two feet,
A local rigger made a halyard for me, and at the tail end running back
to the cockpit he removed the core (3/8" Sta-set) before he spliced an
eye in it. The purpose was to allow me to use a messenger line and have
it all fit through the sheave at the masthead. That way I can remove
the
Charlie,
It's been a oldie but goodie topic on this list, but the proper way to
torque the keel bolts is with the boat on the hard, in which condition
the bolts are unloaded and torquing to spec gives the proper preload
stress in the bolts. Doing it in the water with the bolts under
It's a matter of waterplane area (the area of the plane created by your
waterline). What it amounts to is that the weight to sink one inch is
equal to the weight of the water pushed aside as the boat sinks one
inch. That amount of water is the waterplane area x 1". If you are in
light water
While there may be room to meet in Josh's boat, the Mid-Atlantic
Rendezvous will have to work to top Starship Enterprise in the way of
drinks...
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3dz1x07ih09zjfo/AADWVp2cFVFcEbiJfXQJNDZ2a?dl=0
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 10/22/2018 7:22 PM, Josh
https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product.aspx?Category_ID=10009_ID=10006=Double-Acting-Mk-5
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 10/18/2018 8:56 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote:
Easier just to replace the unit? Are they now using composites or
still using corrosive alloys??
Following up on Rick's comment, I found on my Whale Gusher pump that the
flappers were not working because the internal threads for the screws
that hold them in place had corroded in the tapped holes in the pump
body. The metal was some cast alloy and it wasn't just stripped
threads, there
Same here, I pull the paddle wheel every time I leave the boat to
prevent growth on it. Water going's to spray in, but it's no big deal.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 10/11/2018 11:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List wrote:
Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our
Edd,
I went with Rolly Tasker (Thailand), 145%, 7-oz, sunbrella w/foam luff.
$2175 including shipping. I've used it for six seasons. Not much of a
racing sail, but it's good for cruising, high foot to see under, seems
to take a beating pretty well.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen
A find point, but the bolt through the mast is really a compression
tube, as the load on the windward spreader is compression from the
change in angle of the upper shroud. The diameter of the heavy part of
the bolt is the same size as the hole in the mast, so it actually bears
against the
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