Looking into this again, I found that I had the following line in
/etc/environment:
FREETYPE_PROPERTIES="truetype:interpreter-version=35 cff:no-stem-
darkening=1 autofitter:warping=1"
I can't remember why I set this, probably some hinting issues in an old Xubuntu
version.
Removing it causes v40
$ gsettings list-recursively org.gnome.desktop.interface | grep font
org.gnome.desktop.interface document-font-name 'Cantarell 11'
org.gnome.desktop.interface font-antialiasing 'grayscale'
org.gnome.desktop.interface font-hinting 'slight'
org.gnome.desktop.interface font-name 'Noto Sans 9'
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