--- You wrote:
B H Photo is 2695.
--- end of quote ---
B H has always been cheap and quick over the years for me.
Rich
Leaf scanners occasionally turn up on Ebay for a reasonable price. What's with
them? Are they a good deal or a maintenence nightmare?
Rich
I've not been able to foolw the conversation. Has anyone used the 2740 Mac
driver for the scanwit and been happy with it?
I'm thinking of buying one but I want to be sure.
Rich
--- You wrote:
I'm actually surprised to here this. I thought the Acer was Mac
compatible as it comes out of the box, and that would make me assume the
SCSI card would also work.
--- end of quoted material ---
The sin is that Mac has abandoned scsi, not to mention serial. It makes
upgrading
--- You wrote:
The Super Six-20 was a folding camera, if I'm not mistaken. If that's what Rich
is talking about, it's pretty rare and worth at least $1000, according to my
book. In that case, I'd *definitely* like to take a look at it! :-)
Best regards--LRA
--- end of quoted material ---
I was
--- You wrote:
Richard wrote:
What was that monster Kodak 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 rangefinder (220 film) that they
sold during the war and possibly before? Beautifully built in the US,
uncoatedoptics that were quite good, it looked like a kid's toy on steriods.
Oooh, that's a toughie. The Medalist was
--- You wrote:
How much difference in frame length could that make?
Art
--- end of quoted material ---
I expect quite a lot when you are looking at figures like 99.5 %. Fractions of
a percent! It would be easy to do the geometry to see how the gap would affect
accuracy at different focal
--- You wrote:
Argus had almost ruled the roost for reasonably-priced 35mm with its
C-Series bricks (Kodak did have the very good Retina, which was smaller,
lighter...and German-made; and the Ektra-- these were in very short supply
and cost $300 in the 1940's--the eauivalent of $3000 or more in
Now that I've done some serious scanning with my brain dead Nikon 3510AF, it
occurs to me that I should go to some old negatives that I used in a show 15
years ago. I did fastidious 11X14 prints on Kodak material and sold a few,
too. I'm wondering if I could reproduce them faithfully from the
I have a wonderful image scanned on my brain-dead Nikon 3510AF, where the
shadow areas are all blotchy with redish spots. The print is a section of an
available light shot on 800 negative material (I think Agfa, it's Mystic Photo's
house brand 800.) If memory serves, in color negs,
--- You wrote:
. I'll even try using some water to wash the slide.
--- end of quote ---
Use water with a modern wetting agent from a photo store. Don't use Kodak Photo
Flow.
Rich
In response to the question about the Scanwit 2740 cost, it might be worth
mentioning that there's been a guy on Ebay selling new ones for some time now.
They seem to come in for under $500. He's also offering some 2720s too.
If anyone snags one, please let us know what the prices are like.
--- You wrote:
'A child of five would understand this. Send someone to fetch a child
of five'
- Groucho Marx
Regards
Tony Sleep
--- end of quoted material ---
Anyone who quotes Groucho can join my club any time.
Meanwhile, I read that article and thought it was very interesting and answered
--- You wrote:
You will be able to chack whether it is the file, or a problem with the
display/graphics system, by viewing the histogram. Contouring shows up as
missing bit values, leaving the histogram looking like a mangy dog's comb.
What file type is this, and what processing has been done
Mr Honda replied to my plea for Mac support for the Scanwit. Turns out there is
a Mac driver for the 2720S and they expect one for the 2740S soon.
That's good news.
Why don't they tell us in the specs on their web page?
Rich
--- You wrote:
I think you will find that most people here regard the Acer as good enough
to stand comparison with much more expensive models, especially for
slides. If you added individual RGB channel exposure control, you would
improve the scanning of colour negatives - the main users'
I don't know if color steps is the right term but it seems to be a display
problem. In several high resolution scans, I've seen some odd areas of color
that should be continuous appear to step from one tone to another as though
displayed in 256 colors or fewer. One was a reflective surface
--- You wrote:
I will explain the rest to you in private email, since this is OT. But
the thing you need to know is that JPEG decompressors now used are
standardized, and you will see little, if any difference between them.
Art
--- end of quote ---
That explains it and does answer my question
--- You wrote:
When I bought an expensive slide-projector about 10 years ago, I took it
straight back when it gave out of focus edges on curved slides. After some
argument, they ended up relenting and giving me a much better lens with
sufficient depth of field. It copes easily with flat and
--- You wrote:
Anyway, I just know I'm going to be nit-picked to death about my very
simplified descriptions to what are very complex mathematical functions,
but I hope this is somewhat helpful in explaining the differences
between JPEG and other compression methods, and why a photograph shows
--- You wrote:
Also I am fed up with the truly vast waste of ink and paper, and especially
time. In all my years of darkroom printing I have never come across such an
unruly, infuriating and wasteful process with the exception of lith
printing - my record there is 4 days to produce a single
--- Tony wrote:
Getting the bl**dy
colour spot-on is another matter...
--- end of quote ---
So how do you approach this important issue? I am constantly tweaking the color
settings in the printer driver, trying to match my screen colors and tonal
values.
Rich
There are a few refurbed Minolta Quickscan 35s on ebay for a good price ($269
US, buy-it-now). Tony's review for the Minolta Dualscan is quite positive.
Does anyone know how this machine compares? The Acer has Ice. Does that make a
big difference when considering a purchase on the low end?
The dpi thread leads me to ask what the best dpi for printing on an Epson
printer (Stylus 600 for example) would be.
My habit is to correct an image at the scanned resolution then move it to a
default blank page for printing, using PhotoShop's free transformation for
sizing. I save the 'print'
--- You wrote:
Have heard of folk using them on a Mac, but not me.
--- end of quote ---
Thanks for the replies on the Acer scanners. How would it be driven on a Mac if
it isn't supplied with Mac software? Woudl Vuescan be required?
Rich
There are a bunch of Acer Scanwit 2740S scanners on Ebay. Is this a competent
machine? Anyone using one on a Mac?
Rich
This is a reply to an old message. Sorry, but I had some difficulty posting to
the list, now, I hope, cleared up.
--- You wrote:
When I ran a B/W custom
lab, we learned that the PhotoFlo dilution was the key to getting strreak and
dust free negs... not the dilution that Kodak recommended, but a
Hi,
It's great to find this list since I've always wanted a film scanner but
couldn't afford one. Recently I took a chance and nailed a Nikon LS-3510AF
scanner on Ebay for very cheap. It was untested so I was hoping I could make it
work. As it turned out, the thing is disabled, though I have
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