[lace-chat] Re: [lace] Hacked email
Hacked, working on sorting it. Meanwhile having just turned on after teaching all day I have 90+ emails, at least 3 times what I'd expect, so no doubt everyone's emailing me to let me know. Never click on the links in this type of email. If I ever send things people aren't expecting it will have an accompanying explanation. Please, no-one else email me to tell me. I've known since this morning as a student received it on her phone. Thanks, Jacquie In a message dated 06/07/2015 21:42:26 GMT Summer Time, 2harv...@tiscali.co.uk writes: I have received two emails supposedly from Jacquie Tinch via Arachne lace chat and they are nothing whatsoever to do with lace just some advert stuff I suspect hacking. Sent from my iPad - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Hacked email
Hacked, working on sorting it. Meanwhile having just turned on after teaching all day I have 90+ emails, at least 3 times what I'd expect, so no doubt everyone's emailing me to let me know. Never click on the links in this type of email. If I ever send things people aren't expecting it will have an accompanying explanation. Please, no-one else email me to tell me. I've known since this morning as a student received it on her phone. Thanks, Jacquie In a message dated 06/07/2015 21:42:26 GMT Summer Time, 2harv...@tiscali.co.uk writes: I have received two emails supposedly from Jacquie Tinch via Arachne lace chat and they are nothing whatsoever to do with lace just some advert stuff I suspect hacking. Sent from my iPad - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] June 21 International Lace Day
If this is a new event/idea someone's come up with, why not have it the same day as the already long established UK National Lacemaking Day, 2nd Saturday in September (this year the 12th) and make it International Lacemaking Day instead? June 21st is already taken for Father's Day. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] 1931 lace making clip
At 1.50mins quite clearly Beds, and unspangled Midlands style bobbins too. Did you notice how much she was doing one handed at 37/38 seconds, more than just twisting, she was doing the tiny bit of plait between picots with her left hand so the other hand was free to get the pin for the next picot Love the insistent child, wants to be centre frame; what a lovely grin. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Candida's lace
Mariña's book published a few years ago was on Hinojosa lace, which is related to but not exactly the same as Candida's lace. It was distributed by Holly in the US but whether there are any copies left anywhere is another matter, certainly all the UK ones were sold. As far as I have heard, the new book isn't yet published. If anyone is interested, there is still time to book one of the last places in Mariña's class at The Lace Guild summer school in August. Details on our website _www.laceguild.org_ (http://www.laceguild.org) . Jacquie in Lincolnshire . - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Mystery object
Recently a photo of a mystery object has been posted on The Lace Guild's Facebook page. It was suggested to the buyer that it might be a place pillow,  and could we confirm it.  I don't have a clue what it is, apart from not a lace pillow, but in the past when weird 'lace' items appear on eBay there is usually someone on arachne who recognises it.  I apologise for not being able to work out how to get a direct link for that page but if anyone else can, please post it. It was bought from a thrift store which to me means Canada or America, but might include Australia.  In the UK they're called charity shops.  It's possible that it's a country specific item. If you are a member of Facebook you could post an answer straight to there but if not, I'll forward it on in due course. Many thanks Jacquie in Lincolnshire. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Mystery object
Thank you Sue,  I am very appreciative of your help. Any ideas? Jacquie in Lincolnshire Original message From Sue Babbs suebabbs...@gmail.com Date: 04/02/2015 14:20 (GMT+00:00) To The Lace Bee thelace...@btinternet.com,laceandbits laceandb...@aol.com Cc Arachne lace@arachne.com Subject Re: [lace] Mystery object I'm not a Facebook member, but I can see the photo of the reverse of the item at: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10205770204079205set=p.10205770204079205type=1theater And yes, I guess she must be American.  See the Target receipt lying on the table behind the item! Target is a US store Now, I've found the first photo. Go to: https://www.facebook.com/thelaceguild/timeline?ref=page_internal Scroll down to posts to page on the left hand side of the side, then click on the arrow beside those words, and Marta's full post and photo pops up. FYI The message is dated Yesterday (Feb 3rd) at 3:51 pm Sue suebabbs...@gmail.com -Original Message- - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Pattern suggestion thanks - and Idrija lace books
Just to remind everyone on Arachne that Bridget Cook has had her comprehensive Idrija book reprinted.  Another author who was shocked by the high amounts second hand copies of the out of print books were being offered and sold for.  It includes instruction and patterns for both narrow tape (what we think of as 'typical' Idrija) and broad tape designs. The reprint is available from Bridget, £20 plus shipping which is currently £2.80 in the UK.  You'd need to enquire from her for overseas shipping costs.  PM me if you want her contact details.  As far as I know she's not offering it for sale via any suppliers: possibly there's not enough difference in cost and selling price for her to be able to offer a discount to them. Jacquie in Lincolnshire Original message From Beth Marshall b...@capuchin.co.uk Date: 10/01/2015 19:44 (GMT+00:00) To Arachne lace@arachne.com Subject [lace] Pattern suggestion thanks - and Idrija lace books Hello all thanks to all those who replied (on off list) with pattern suggestions - I now have lots of ideas (if only I had enough time to try them all), one of which is to try Idrija lace as there seem to be lots of very attractive smallish motif patterns available for that; As I've never tried Idrija I could do with an instruction book to help with the techniques before I leap into any more complex patterns - can anyone tell me what Idrija books are out there, and which ones are worth buying for a beginner to this type of lace? Doesn't matter too much if they are not in English, particularly if their are plenty of good diagrams (I've been making lace long enough to read diagrams plus I can read French and Spanish pretty fluently, and make out a reasonable amount in German or Italian - armed with the international lace dictionary I'll tackle most lace publications) Meanwhile, going into the lace folder on my computer to dig out the Spanish pattern books Lorelei mentioned (which I had downloaded ages ago and forgotten about) I found a tape-and-fillings pattern for a treble clef - no idea where I downloaded this pattern by Claudine Bouvain from, there's just the pricking and a picture of the completed motif in my files, originally white but it would look glorious multi-coloured in really bright silk threads and I have a ridiculously large stash of those so I shall be preparing my pricking and winding some bobbins tonight.. Beth - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Simple needlelace question
Devon said ...Then you work the next row of stitches in the same direction as the previous one, often enclosing the return thread. So when you look at a piece of needle lace all the stitches may appear identical because they have all been worked in the same direction. But don't forget that once your piece is finished you (and everyone else) will be looking at the whole work of art, not individual stitches.  The corded stitches look far more different from the uncorded ones than the buttonhole stitches worked in the two different directions do.  The former shows from a distance (which is why there are both varieties in common usage),  the latter often needs a magnifying glass.  Don't sweat the small stuff. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] 2. Ann Bernard's Blog (Jeri's Comments) Long
From Jeri Remember what I always recommend - carry a small purse-size torch (British term) or flashlight (American term) when traveling and visiting museums and historic buildings. Highly recommended if you visit Imagine at Waddesdon.  A friend also took binoculars. She said the National Trust had no objections to her using an LED torch even though flash photography is not allowed.  She got a few funny looks, but also looks of envy at her forward planning from people who wanted to see the lace better. Jacquie in Lincolnshire Original message From jeria...@aol.com Date: 19/10/2014 00:05 (GMT+00:00) To lace@arachne.com Cc a...@annbernard.com Subject [lace] 2. Ann Bernard's Blog (Jeri's Comments) Long We all need to network more, please! Here are my (Jeri's) comments about some subjects discussed on this Blog site: I really enjoyed the Nottingham Blog. (I independently went to see the lace factories after one of Marion Scoular's tours of Scotland). I bought every little book that was sold there about lace plus the 1994 381-pg. hardbound book by Sheila A. Mason called Nottingham Lace 1760s-1950. When our friend who works with laces at The Metropolitan Museum expressed interest in 2003, I mailed my copy of Mason's book to her, and later put her in touch with Mason. Mason was able to get a private lace appointment at The Metropolitan shortly after, when she was in NYC.  Her family company, Cluny Lace Company Limited, is the last of the Leavers lace makers in the UK, per a memo Mason sent to me in 2010.  Her company's history stretches back to 1739. Word came in 2003 via Arachne, that Bill Rowe (b. 1921), a member of the RAF Association Croydon Branch, became interested in the lace panels and then wrote a 72-pg. spiral-bound book The Battle of Britain in Lace, in which he accounted for the present location of panels and gave many photographic images. I have this book, thanks to Nicky Townsend. Lace guild bulletins and personal letters have come to me from time-to-time, telling of additional locations, as the lace community tries to recapture history. One letter from Devon Thein to the New England Lace Group suggested there is a copy in the U.S. - in the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, donated in 2007. She received this information from Brian Lemin in Australia. However, the http address provided failed for me today. There is at least one member of the New England Lace Group who could confirm this location, if she would come out of lurking. I was very happy to read Ann Bernard's review of the Ruhland (Lace) Collection Exhibition in Canada, closing Nov. 2, 2014.  More needs to appear on Arachne about it.  Ann tells me it was fascinating and overwhelming - too much to take in on one or even two or three visits. Canadian Lacemaker Gazette published lovely photos in the Fall 2014 edition. This Gazette is like a national lace guild, and links Canadian lace lovers together. A Canadian lace groups page with contact info is always inserted in it, and all Provinces are represented. I personally know several members - all of whom network about lace and represent Canadians very well.  Malvary Cole and Bev Walker, are particularly active participants on Arachne. The next thing I was caught up by was Bernard's memories of being a student at the RSN in the early 1950s. I can relate to the Prince's Gate building, as I once went there to take an embroidery class. I also shopped there for books whenever in London. Scoular took me to the newer headquarters at Hampton Court, which should be a destination for all who pursue any form of needlework. Arachne members may learn more about silk and metal threads from information in Bernard's Blog. I was reminded the 1st edition of the 442-pg. 1886 scholarly book, Needlework as Art by Lady Marian M Alford, is always fun to delve into. It has 14 pages exclusively devoted to lace, and from Ovid's Metamorphoses the Story of Arachne (Appendix III). Somewhere else in my readings I learned that Alford lived at Prince's Gate. Ever after, I have wondered if she lived in the very building that later housed the RSN?! In a completely unrelated book, on Royal fans (the kind you hold), is a fan that Alford painted.  Apparently, she studied art in Italy at a young age.  A very nice background for an early leader in the development of the RSN. Her knowledge would certainly elevate the perception that some embroideries are sufficiently well designed and executed that they must be considered to be art. About Beryl Dean (1911-2001), whose name will always be the one most associated with ecclesiastical embroidery of the 20th century: I, too, saw all the chairs piled up perilously close to the embroidered panels
Re: [lace] LOKK Pink Ribbon
The Milanese, pattern A, one is made in two parts; long piece that cuves round and joins to itself, the short piece joins to the other side of the same bit of braid. The cloth stitch one divides at the start of the line (get the second worker using a turning stitch as you would for many Milanese braids) with just a winkie pin edge either side of the centre. Work one side first, then loop the worker around the same pin as you do the second side. Join the two workers again with a turning stitch, drop one as a passive and continue to the end. It is the finishing of this one that will make or break it. Refer to the technique books such as Invisible, The Beginning of the End or Practical skills in bobbin lace. All available from The Lace Guild library for LG members in the UK but I expect that IOLI has them too. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Teaching lace.
Well done Sue, but unfortunately not everyone is as positive and determined as you. I know that not all the people who were in my classes and who dropped out one or two at a time, over several price raises, are still making lace. I am still seeing many of the ones who were able to hang in until the end, when the both price shot up and concessions were removed at the same time, but the ones who left earlier have mostly disappeared from my circle. I do agree with what you are saying though as I was originally self taught, and when I first went to classes I found it very strange when people just chatted while waiting for help, instead of trying to work out what to do. I now see people monthly and it's a good compromise for all as they have to think for themselves a bit or they can't do anything for a long time, but if they are seriously stuck they know help is coming. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Lace patterns
These patterns on the whole are very easy to draft from the photographs. I remember they were on sale when OIDFA were in Brighton, many years ago, and one look at the price very quickly convinced me that I would just carry on drafting any that I wanted to work. This also has the advantage that you can work them any size with the thread of your choice. Free graph paper in all sizes is easy to find with a google search if you don't have R-XP/Lace 8 and Arachne Brenda Paternoster's 'Threads for Lace' will tell you all the thread options for the grid sizes. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Queen Victoria's wedding dress lacce?
When I get similar questions sent to me via The Lace Guild, after I have explained about the level of skill needed therefore the cost per hour, and the number of hours it would take to make even a small piece of lace, I usually give them a link to the Cluny Lace Company in Derbyshire http://www.clunylace.com/index.htm At least that way we might keep them in the UK economy. A mention that some of this lace was used for the royal wedding dress probably makes it up market enough to please their egos. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
RE: [lace] Fan stick maker
From my student: Many thanks for all your help; I will follow up the leads. What a kindly lot lacemakers are! Original message From Maureen maur...@roger.karoo.co.uk Date: 20/03/2014 10:24 (GMT+00:00) To 'J D Hammett' jdhamm...@msn.com,'laceandbits' laceandb...@aol.com,'Arachne' lace@arachne.com Subject RE: [lace] Fan stick maker HI I can personally recommend Stuart Johnson.   Not sure about Malcolm Cox in Ireland I have heard some negative comments about him but not used him myself. Maureen E Yorkshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Fan stick maker
I have had this request from a student: Have you ever heard of a fan stick supplier Baraudâs? I think itâs from Barry and Audrey. I canât find them on the internet and wondered whether Iâve got the name right? I've never heard of them, can anyone else help? Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Gretchen and two relatives, article in Lace 153,
Due to a technical glitch, two paragraphs were concealed by one of the photographs in Jean Leader's article 'Gretchen and Two Relatives', on pages 26 and 27 of the latest edition of Lace, meaning that it is confusing to read (not surprisingly). Â The old fashioned paper cut-and-paste has some benefits! The full article is now available on our website ( www.laceguild.org ) which means that not only members of The Lace Guild can read it, you all can. I would like to apologise to all of you who spotted the apparent contradictions in the text as it was published, and to Jean for spoiling her well researched and written article. Jacquie in Lincolnshire Wearing my Chairman's hat. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Blue tissue paper
The Guild has been asked why, going back to before anyone was aware of acid-free issues, was lace traditionally stored in blue tissue paper? Â This is in the UK, Â was it a common practice worldwide? Â Our curator (who probably knows the answer) is on holiday, so I thought I would ask Arachne. Many thanks in advance, Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Thread size and type
Mouline is stranded cotton so they are possibly suggesting you use one strand, or more for gimps.  Quite a few of my Russian lace books have stranded thread pictured and it's what we were given to work with in Moscow. The easiest way is just to see which thread is the right size to fit x pairs in the braids.  It might be finer than you think, and if it's too thick the plaited fillings will look clumsy. Jacquie in Lincolnshire Original message From Sue su...@talktalk.net Date: 29/01/2014 13:24 (GMT+00:00) To Arachne lace@arachne.com Subject [lace] Thread size and type I am looking through a book of Russian Lace patterns and it mentions a thread called Mouline DMC cotton. It also mentions natural silk, linen and cotton can be used of appropriate thickness. Not sure I have found the right thing In Brendas magic book. I feel this might be an old type thread and would be interested to hear what threads are around now of similar thickness etc. Any help please, gratefully received. Sue T Dorset UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Christian Church Lace
Lots of Torchon with a few Beds and Bucks patterns in 'Lace for Church Use' by Marie-Clare Downham, published by Batsford in 1989. BUT, I have to say I don't see why most of these patterns are in the book (or conversely why the book has this title) as only one of the Torchon pieces has a cross, and that's more like a maltese cross than a crucifix,  and one of the Bucks ones has bells along the edges but the use of bells is found in many religions. As the shapes you wish to use are fairly simple, could you find a narrow Bucks edge and add plain ground to the width you want, then draft your chosen Christian symbolism (cross?  fish?) within that ground Jacquie in Lincolnshire Original message From AGlez antje.gonza...@gmail.com Date: 27/01/2014 13:32 (GMT+00:00) To Arachne lace@arachne.com Subject Re: [lace] Christian Church Lace There are about six or seven patterns for church clothes in one of Koretelahti's books. They are lovely, and different, if you like Korthelati's designs and don not mind it not being Bucks. The book is Nypl�ttya pitsia (bobbin lace) ISBN 951-99305-9-0 You can probably buy it directly form her or I have also seen it second hand somewhere. Her web site is http://www.pitsipirtti.fi/ Good luck! Antje Gonz�lez ww.vueltaycruz.es https://www.etsy.com/shop/TwistAndCross - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] print on demand
Sue said The only other 'binding' that I would 'enjoy' is the idea of Ulrike Voelker where she produced the torchon books in ringbinders. This is also extremely useful to the lacemaker as it also lays flat! The main problem with this style for me is that it takes up more room on the shelf. Not only is there the bulk of the binder itself, it also increases the size from standard A4 to A4 plus some top and bottom and extra at the spine for the rings, so it no longer fits on the same shelf with tight A4 book spacing.  A secondary problem is that UK standard two rings don't give the pages anything like the same level of support that spiral bound does and so pages are at more risk of damage. The pages (of my Grounds volumes at least) are punched for multi-ring binders but the only one of those I have I bought in France - chosen for a pretty cover I didn't realise until I was home that it is 4 not 2 rings.  Are they standard on mainland Europe or was this an anomaly?  No doubt they are available in the UK; I'll have to look but I bet they're going to be pricier than a standard two ring binder, and of course that adds to the cost of the book. This is my only gripe about Ulrike's otherwise excellent books, the range of shapes and sizes from thin A5 through A5 height but square, to A4 and on to boxes of loose pricking and unboxed A4 sheets which need a ring binder making them bigger still. As so many of her books cover more than one lace style they are easiest filed together, but the large shelf gap needed for the A4+ ones is wasted on the shorter styles. Also don't forget that although A4 is the European standard both the non-metric USA and the metricated Canada use 'letter' as their default office paper size, so if they can get A4 folders at all, they probably have to pay a premium for them, in the same way we have to here to get anything in 'letter' format. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Print On Demand books
Susan said For Alex other lace authors, may I cast my vote for spiral bound editions? . Books lie flat do not need to be propped open--very handy when one is trying to follow the instructions! But I understand that suppliers and librarians aren't so keen on then as they get bent out of shape more easily, and 'sag' when in a bookstand.  And as a teacher carrying books around, I do try to be very careful to give my spiral and comb bound books support from more traditionally bound ones.  They are also harder to push into a gap in a very full bookcase!  There are pluses and minuses to everything in life I guess.  If you produce a spiral bound book, please make sure you opt for an extra heavy cover sheet front and back as this makes a vast difference to both the feel and the durability of the book.  Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Torn veil - help needed
The net isn't torn, it looks as if its been chewed.  How on earth did it happen.  Or was it speared by a stiletto heel. I agree with Joan that appliquéd sprigs (plural) are one way to go.  As the damage is in from the edge a way they'd need to use more than one, balanced either side of the centre back motif, or it would be obviously a repair.  They don't need to be fancy, just in keeping with the rest of the design, but obviously one in each group must be large enough to conceal all of the hole, the others could be smaller.  It may be possible to use motifs from a damaged old piece of Duchesse or Honiton if there's no lacemaker with the time and skills available but you'd need to match the scale and colour. Another option would be to patch in a piece of net and this would be the easiest and quickest, and properly done almost invisible, BUT would depend on you finding a piece of old net that is a good match in mesh shape and size and colour.  It is relatively easy to find areas of net in otherwise unimportant pieces of machine lace, once you attune your eyes to the search; having said that this looks as if it might be a diamond mesh net (although the detail isn't quite good enough to see clearly) and that's not as easy to find as hexagonal mesh, but still possible. See if you can find a copy of the Anybody Can  Mend Lace and Linens book, by Arachne Elizabeth Kurella. I don't know if it's still in print or not (? Elizabeth) but if you belong to IOLI they likely have a copy in their library.  If not, and if you are a Lace Guild member, we have a copy and are allowed to copy small parts of a book for your use (we can't loan the books overseas).  But if you can find your own copy I can't recommend it highly enough. I think (and I may be dreaming) that in the above book she also shows you how to do a darned repair, but for this you'll need a very fine thread in the right colour, or it would stick out like a sore thumb. I wish them luck as it's a lovely heirloom piece. Jacquie in Lincolnshire Sent from Samsung tablet - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Flickr account
'Is it possible to see pictures on Facebook without being a member?' Yes it must be, DH can see The Lace Guild's Facebook page and he doesn't have a Facebook account.  He just Googles The Lace Guild and Facebook and there it is. Jacquie in Lincolnshire. Sent from Samsung tablet Original message From lbuy...@nc.rr.com Date: 03/01/2014 14:12 (GMT+00:00) To Arachne lace@arachne.com Subject Re: [lace] Flickr account Is it possible to see pictures on Facebook without being a member? I am not a member and would prefer not to join unless the group feels that Facebook is the best solution. Liz R (not Reynolds), Raleigh NC David C COLLYER dccoll...@ncable.net.au wrote: I personally don't do Flickr at all and reckon it would all be far simpler just to set up a closed group on Facebook where most of us are already anyway. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Miss Channer's Mat
Or sell it!  At one point they were fetching really silly money on ebay. There are other large Bucks Point mats out there, Miss Channers is not the only one. Jacquie in Lincolnshire  this time I have remembered to trim my post.  Sorry for the previous ommission. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Lace8
While Lace 8 is being talked about, can I just say that one of my students bought it during the summer and asked me to show her a few tricks.  Being now quite au fait with RXP I thought I can cope with that.  I was able to show her all the basics she needed to get her confidence but I tried my hardest to find out how to open the tool bars around the screen that I am used to, as they are so convenient, but couldn't.  Speaking to Ian (Mr Ilsoft) at Solihull he confirmed that this can't be done with Lace 8.  Personally I found it very irritating to keep having to go up to the top tool bar when I am used to being able to drag the appropriate bars close-handy to where I am working.  The other thing I don't like/need is that the roseground now comes complete with holes in the way that only spiders did (those of you who use RXP will understand what I mean).  As I more often than not put roseground in as an afterthought to fill odd spaces in ground, these extra holes are superfluous (and yes, I do know how to remove duplicate holes). The only other thing I know of is that I understand Ian has reinstated the redo button, which I had asked him to do in an RXP update as it was in Lace 2000, but he never got around to it.  This is useful if you have inked in a whole length of trail then make a mistake.  If you click 'undo' it deletes the whole trail!  But over the years I have been using it I have learnt to resist the temptation and go for 'item select' 'delete' instead so this is no longer an issue with me.  Can any of you who have tried both tell me why I should be using the newer version, please.  I think I might be missing something important but can't see what.  Jacquie in Lincolnshire Sent from Samsung tablet Original message From Janice Blair jbl...@sbcglobal.net Date: 31/12/2013 16:04 (GMT+00:00) To lace lace@arachne.com Subject [lace] Lace8 videos I want to send a public thank you to Jenny Brandis for working on her Lace8 tutorial videos over the holidays. �She makes it simple to understand, even for someone so computer handicapped like me. �If you have Lace8, check out her list of videos at�http://www.brandis.com.au/Video/index.html I am using Lace8 on my MacBook Pro through an application called VirtualBox, set up for me by my SIL years ago. �Sometimes I have trouble doing things, maybe because Lace8 is written as a Microsoft program. �Jenny's videos helped me find the shortcuts. �I just tried two things, resizing the background and zooming in and out, which used to take me ages to figure out as I do not use the program on a regular basis, and I could do them quickly. It is wonderful to have such lace friends all around the world who can help with lace problems and she does so much for our Arachne exchanges. �Thank you Jenny, and I wish you and everyone on Arachne a Happy New Year. Janice � Janice Blair Crystal Lake, 50 miles northwest of Chicago, Illinois, USA where it is going to snow again later so our NY celebrations will be done at home after dinner at a local restaurant. www.jblace.com http://www.lacemakersofillinois.org - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Demonstrating
Lace is 'just' cross twist, in exactly the same way as knitting is 'just' knit and purl.  Why make things more complicated than you need to? When you teach someone to knit you don't go sideways and immediately start tellling them that although knitting is 'just' knit and purl, of course it's not really because sometimes you use another needle and move the order of the stitches to do cables, or four needles and knit round and round,  or sometimes you do yo and k2tog to make holes for lace, and sometimes you knit short rows to do shaping and sometimes you only use a few of all the stitches at a time for entrelac, and sometimes you use more than one colour for fairisle.  Need I go on? Bobbin lace is just the same.  All you need for the solid areas are cloth stitch or half stitch worked from side to side, all you need for ground are half stitch or cloth stitch worked with pins at each set of stitches, all you need for plaits are half stitches.  The only bit that isn't are leaves and tallies, and many people avoid them like the plague anyway.  As they learn they will see how the solid and the ground get joined, in the same way as knitters will learn rib and increasing and decreasing, or holes or cables, as they need to. No one is going to sit at a have-a-go pillow, learn cloth and half stitch and immediately think they can tackle a Bucks fan.  But on the other hand if you start describing the learning curve between the have-a-go and the fan, all but the most determined will be put off before they even start. My vote is for Bobbin lace is just cloth stitch and half stitch.  You can do them now.  In a class, or from a book, you'll learn how to use them. Jacquie in Lincolnshire Sent from Samsung tablet - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Demonstrating
Jane said Go back beyond that, though, and even at four or five years of age you would have been learning the lace of the town/region in which you lived No need to go back in time, just visit Camariñas in Spain, (and very probably other towns on the continent as well,) where lace is valued as an important part of their heritage,  and you can see children of 5, 6 and 7 working on complex guipure laces with very little help. Working fast at that, and chatting away to each other in exactly the same way they see their older sisters, mothers, grandmothers and aunts doing. Jacquie in Lincolnshire Sent from Samsung tablet Original message From Jane Partridge jpartri...@pebble.demon.co.uk Date: 08/12/2013 14:42 (GMT+00:00) To lace@arachne.com Subject [lace] Demonstrating For about the last century, most people have been making lace as a hobby rather than to earn a living, and have had some choice as to what lace to start with - some, because frequently that choice is dictated by the teacher to start with. Some teachers throw their hands up in horror if you even suggest starting with something other than braid lace or Torchon - probably because they are not used to teaching the beginner skills to progress to anything else. Go back beyond that, though, and even at four or five years of age you would have been learning the lace of the town/region in which you lived. In some places, like Honiton, and I suspect on the continent, that is still the case, but children would have started off learning the more complex laces - they would probably never have learned anything else! Some teachers like to make people think lace is difficult to learn in order to keep them coming to class, and not let them even think they could learn from books, DVDs or U-tube on their own. The first stage of learning to make lace is learning the self-confidence that tells you you can do it; after that, getting your hands to work the cross and twist movements, then to stop thinking about what you are doing and let your hands get on with the task - those are the difficult bits. Once that has clicked, then other than certain advanced techniques, the lace itself isn't all that complicated! In message 893662BF2DDA426AB8F380939BCD0A61@Cecily, Lyn Bailey lynrbai...@desupernet.net writes  While it is possible, I know of no one who started in Binche. -- Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] just cross and twist
This is not something I have ever come across, to this extent. I have 'acquired' over the years several people who were originally self taught (as I was myself), and have found they fall into two main categories.  One (into which I complacently put myself) are those who have read carefully, and also carefully studied the illustrations, and not only have got the hang of the basic techniques but have also noticed that the threads should be tensioned and the whole should look crisp. The other group are those who have got the basics but haven't noticed that the threads need to be tensioned and usually they quickly get the hang of the extra techniques and are delighted in the improvement in their lace. So long as all the bobbins are wound the same way, there is no right or wrong.  It depends entirely on the culture the student is learning from. Just because I choose to wind mine clockwise doesn't mean I object to teaching those who wind counter-clockwise, or that I have any problem with their hitch. Even among those I teach from scratch there are those who have problems with the bobbins running, but having suggested variations in technique to suit different thread/bobbin combinations I usually point out to them it is one of the Murphy's Laws of lacemaking. So long as it distresses you, your bobbins will run. As soon as you can deal with them promptly and confidently enough for it not to bother you any more, they stop doing it. And as for someone who has her twists and crosses mixed, she has just learnt to undo before she learnt to do. I have never come across this one, but as I try to teach people to undo as a strict reverse of doing, and for most people I haven't taught previously (whether self taught or from a previous teacher) this is a new concept, I don't see it would be any harder to show someone how to go forward correctly. Perhaps being self taught I have a more positive attitude to others also self taught. I do know that when I first joined a class I was amazed at the way the other students would switch off thinking the moment they got stuck, and wait for the teacher, instead of at least trying to work out what was wrong so I enjoy the slightly different way self taughters approach their work. Jacquie in Lincolnshire Sent from Samsung tablet - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] organisation
Organised yes but oh, so slow.  I wonder if this lacemaker uses all those divider pins when she's not doing a video for the benefit of an audience.  If you watch people working on a bolster pillow,  either held horizontally or vertically,  they don't fuss with a pin for every pair.  If you had lots of bobbins you couldn't do that anyway.  They pin bobbins out of the way in bundles, and lift/drop them down a few pairs at a time. Because half stitch is worked twist, cross,  it is quite quick to sort off the next group of bobbins needed as they are all hanging untwisted in more or less the right order. They get no more jumbled than when you have lots of pairs flat on a pillow.  The speed at which they are able to make the stitches more than outweighs the time spent sorting.  What they are strict with themselves about is to keep all the leashes the same length; this keeps the bobbins in order better and makes it much easier to move the bobbins around each other,  both when sorting and when working. Sent from Samsung tablet Original message From Jill Hawkins j...@myhawkins.co.uk Date: 03/12/2013 11:13 (GMT+00:00) To 'lace Arachne' lace@arachne.com,Agnes Boddington ag...@weatherwax.karoo.co.uk Subject Re: [lace] organisation Thanks for sharing this Agnes. I looked at some other videos she has posted on youtube, and the lacemaker uses the same system in each of them to keep her bobbins organised. Very nice! It 'almost' makes me want to give the tombolo technique a go! Jill, in cloudy Milton Keynes, Bucks On 29 November 2013 at 19:36 Agnes Boddington ag...@weatherwax.karoo.co.uk wrote: Talk about being organized on your lace pillow. Have a look at this lace maker: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYJVgKyj470feature=c4-overview-vllist=PL22B 1A50D49D0F648 - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Freehand Lace with 6 pairs or less
A large fully-dressed pillow with many bobbins and dense pattern is discouraging and elicits the usual I don't have the patience!. Oh how I agree with Jeri on this one.  And it can be a real act of diplomacy to try to tell potential volunteers that their 'boasting' pillow with 200+ expensive bobbins and fine Point Ground lace completely hidden by pins is not going to be an inspiration to new lacemakers.  On the contrary,  it will frighten them away. One of the best show pillows I have seen is Arachne Leonard Bazaar's.  From memory it is a largish circular cloth (maybe a metre or so across, but I'm sure he'll let us know), worked in a 5 pair braid lace, all cloth stitch (is that right?) with minimal plated fillings, Bruges style.  I seem to remember the design is made in thirds, and when i saw it last, at least one third was finished and hung impressively at the front of the pillow.  The work in progress is so basic that I have seen Leonard invite people to do some for him when there is a queue for the have-a-go pillow.  They can immediately understand how this simple stitch and braid can make a beautiful and even complex design. Jacquie in Lincolnshire Sent from Samsung tablet Original message From jeria...@aol.com Date: 03/12/2013 17:04 (GMT+00:00) To hottl...@neo.rr.com,lace@arachne.com Subject Re: [lace] Freehand Lace with 6 pairs or less Dear Susan, If you have access to Gil Dye's The Isham Samples and Other Linen Edgings there are several patterns that would suit you from the Elizabethan era.  Some use 2 colors of thread, which I have found makes it easier for people new to viewing a lace demonstration to see the thread paths. Adding a bit of history at a library location, would be appropriate and you might find a costume book that shows the narrow laces used on coifs and clothing edges. Because of the Isham connection, there was a long article (with pictures) by Rosemary Shepherd in the Fall 2012 IOLI lace bulletin. You might even find an article by Gil - she writes for both IOLI and The Lace Guild (UK) bulletins. Or, you can make a simple Torchon ground of any width. See Rosemary's Introduction to Bobbin Lacemaking, page 32. People can relate to stitches which resemble machine-made net (tulle) yardage. I used this idea and set up a basic pillow with tatting threads (they don't break at demos, and there is enough space to see the threads and show the route an individual thread takes using a corsage pin as pointer). I wound bone bobbins with white, and black hand-painted bobbins with blue variegated. The effect is pretty, and the bobbins are set up in a sequence to create a diamond shape of blue down the middle.  Not for your limited pillow space, Susan, but an idea for anyone who wants to talk with the public while demonstrating. A large fully-dressed pillow with many bobbins and dense pattern is discouraging and elicits the usual I don't have the patience!. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 12/2/2013 10:55:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, hottl...@neo.rr.com writes: My plan for making Skansk hit a major snag when I realized all of my patterns require more than six pair. Google brought up Jean Leader's articles, Lorelei's test strips Jo Edkin's ribbons. With such a tiny pillow, I'm reluctant to add my beaded Mechlin bobbins to the mix, but six pair lace options are less appealing. The pillow needs something cute  petite! Have I missed any attractive six pair resources that may be worked freehand? - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Apology
Sorry, I forgot to trim my last post. Sent from Samsung tablet - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Third Hand
Hackle pliers? Fly fishing shops. Look for the long narrow bobbin size ones not the short, fat and wide ones. Maybe not quite as elegant as your rosewood one but easy to find and probably less expensive. Useful for all sorts of short thread situations. Mine originally was a gift from Tamara when this shape was only available in the US, and is much valued for both its use and the memory, but we can now get them here in the UK and I would imagine world wide. Jacquie in Lincolnshire. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] DKV mailander spitze question
Der kloppelbrief wurde auf 71% verkleinert. No I can't translate it but from experience working with Gutterman's silk for Milanese, I would think this means the pattern is at 71% of what it should be. The braids aren't wide enough on the pattern sheet as they are for that thread; they need to be wider. And in fact a quick look at a free translator comes up with Has been reduced to 71% of the If anybody wants. Not sure what happened at the end, but it confirms what I thought. This is *at* 71% so it fits on the sheet, you need to enlarge it. Jacquie in Lincolnshire who won this beautiful book in the raffle at The Lace Guild convention at Kidderminster this year. Hope to see lots of you at Worcester in 2014. What could you win? - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Seventeenth-Century Women's Dress Patterns - Book Two
Dear all, while I take on board Kim's frustration about the lace patterns, or lack of, don't forget these books are entitled *dress* patterns not lace patterns. Presumably the writers are pattern cutting experts and they are aimed at people interested in reconstructing the clothes not the lace. And as demonstrated, the author(s) don't have the lace knowledge themselves and would have had to bring in an expert to write that section. It is the icing on the cake that in the process they have found these Xray snippets of lace for our titillation. However due to the work of Rosemary, Gil Dye, Kim, Tamara and others, lacemakers now have the information available to be able to reproduce this lace accurately. If there was a lengthy side discourse in this book about the correct way to make the lace shown, then those people who had bought the book for its stated information might have been complaining loudly about what they considered wasted space. Jacquie in Lincolnshire. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] out of print books
Although it would still involve posting, it might be easier to download the PDFs onto a CD/DVD or even a memory stick of some sort because as was mentioned, the complete books are large files to send and download. There is always the risk of people sharing them whether in book or electronic form; as I said recently in another thread, when I was in Spain I was offered a memory stick containing about 20 lace books which had been illegally scanned, but most people will be prepared to buy a legitimate version if it is available at a sensible price. On the whole lacemakers are honest people. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] lace photos
Lovely work, but it's a triangle so probably a shawl not a tablecloth. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Copyright.
Maureen said This might be the time to remind people that if they have designed a pattern of any kind, that they make sure that their copyright is on the pattern and in such a place that it cannot be taken off. Unfortunately even in the old days carefully applied whiteout paint followed by a fresh photocopy would conceal many marks of origin, but with the onset of technology even a basic scanner and graphics programme will allow the unscrupulous to remove all traces of the originator's name and date. Perhaps we could make it as hard for them as possible by having watermarks stating copyright behind the design area, but then there is the problem that the design itself is harder to see. However, the seller's sometimes don't even bother to do this. One ebayer was selling copies of pages from Lace a while back and seemed surprised when told this was infringing copyright. However, she did remove them from sale and there has been no sign of her doing it again. I'm not sure what Antje and Pam can do when the culture in which this is happening has a very relaxed attitude to the issue. If the buyers don't mind that the pattern source is dishonest because the price is right, and no-one official is prepared to do anything, then the sellers have no compulsion to stop. I have been at meetings in Spain where home made photocopies of complete books were for sale quite openly and not just out of print ones. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Fit for a Princess at The Lace Guild Convention.
If any of the UK Arachne's know any fashion or textiles students, you might like to steer them towards the Lace Guild website where Jean has posted the entry form for Fit for a Princess. Tell them to spread the word to their friends and colleges. This is a competition being run to stimulate the awareness and use of lace as part of an outfit, rather than just using lace yardage to make the clothes. It has an A4 presentation to keep the postage costs down for the entrants and for handling logistics at The Hollies (as early Contrasts entries may be arriving at the same time). The entries are to be judged and exhibited at Convention in Kidderminster (another good reason to come) and there is a first prize of £100.00! Look in the convention section of the website (www.laceguild.org) for the link to the entry form. If you do join us, remember that the over all theme for the weekend is Dressed to Kill. With so much lace being used on fashion at the moment, there is no excuse for anyone to be without a bit if lace somewhere in their outfit, even if they didn't make it themselves. Even my iPhone case has black Point Ground lace printed on it. Also, if you are entering Contrasts, remember that you can bring your entry to Convention or to Sunday in Stourbridge to save posting it one way. Best wishes to you all Jacquie in Lincolnshre - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Lace magazine overseas packaging
Dear overseas Lace Guild members! As you know we had some issues with the mailings for the last membership year (now hopefully resolved) and we are pursuing this with the mailing house. I know this is a long shot, but if any of you still have the packaging from any of the last year's issues of Lace (April 2012 back to July 2011), would it be possible for you to scan it and send it to she...@laceguild.org If you can remember roughly when it arrived, that would be even better. The only person who I thought to ask to do this is Malvary when her April issue arrived, and it clearly shows no airmail markings but now there is some dispute as to whether they were all sent the same way (very probably as they mostly took a long time to arrive) or whether hers is an anomaly that was sent surface mail by mistake. Many thanks in advance, Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
Re: [lace] Lace8
Has the re-do button been re-instated? I understand this was in the first version but is missing from R-XP. Annoying when you have drawn in a long trail and the lose the rhythm and go wrong. Hit undo instead of item select, delete. Those of you that use the programme will know that undo deletes the whole trail, whereas with item select, delete you can undo just the one wrong line. I have nearly cured myself but Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
Re: [lace] re: Rosalibre comments
Robin says but because the techniques are her invention, that's getting into infringeing on Cathy's intellectual property (morally, if not legally). I am not comfortable with that. No matter how much a few of us enjoy it, I'm afraid Cathy's revolution may be a quirky lace that fewer and fewer people bother with. However, Cathy quite clearly says in the front of the book in answer to the question Can I teach others this lace? Yes, if you do so without distributing any patterns, descriptions or diagrams from this document. I hold the copyright on this material, but will not trademark the specifics of the technique. If another teacher has worked enough with Cathy or from the book to feel confident to teach the lace, then they will almost certainly have also done some of their own designs and made their own working notes and diagrams, and that is all that she is asking. After all the hard work she put in developing the techniques and writing the book, she would probably be pleased and interested to see it becoming a well known lace instead of fading into obscurity. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
Re: [lace] LOKK necklace pattern
And a link back to the original pattern would be helpful too if you want advice, for those of us who didn't bookmark it. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
Re: [lace] LOKK necklace pattern
Having traced the pattern through google and the archives, I would think that you just didn't tension tightly enough as you pin, to wrap the previous left-to-right row of work over the shoe lace. Basically you are making the bobbinlace equivalent of knitted i-cord (like frrench knitting) and if you have ever done that you will remember you have to tension firmly as you knit the first stitch or two of each row. What the instructions don't say though is how to get the ridges which are what make it unusual. I suppose that the thick and thin thread pairs need to be placed alternately, but there don't seem to enough ridges to need as many as 20 pairs, thus giving 10 thick pairs; it looks as if there are four or five at the most. As the gaps between the ridges are quite wide, it's almost as if there are a couple of thin pairs then one thick one. The spiralling probably just happens; did you get that?. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
Re: [lace] The Laughing Cavalier' Lace
I guess that Linda doesn't belong to either The Lace Guild or IOLI as the magazines produced by both these organisations have regular items about the early English laces and how to make them, and very interesting reading they are too. She is quite right that there is a similarity between many of these laces and Bedfordshire 9-pin edge as they are worked with plaits, but I suspect at a quick look that the Laughing Cavalier's lace is Reticella. If possible read Gil Dye's article on page 25 in the January copy of Lace which is about two very similar portraits of William Shakespeare (1610 and 1610-20). The main difference between the portraits is in the collars, one being bobbin lace and one needlemade Reticella, but to a non-lacemaker they are very alike, and in much the same style as the Cavalier's collar. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
Re: [lace] crochet strips
If you are making these in any cotton/rayon ie non-stretchy yarn, make a short bit and try it out first. I have always found that although you need to avoid fluffy yarns, holder strips made from wool, wool-blends or acrylic yarns which have a bit more stretch-and-shrink-again ability than cotton are more successful as they hold the bobbins better without being a fight to get on. Jacquie in Lincolnshire. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] Knitted fans/coffee stirrers
For those of you who haven't seen the photos in 'Lace', who might be a little confused as to how a stir stick can be used to make a fan stick, these are mini-fans, with a radius the size of the stick. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace-chat] The green thing
Liz said: Here was the girl on the checkout - not your normal girl on the checkout, but an Oxford University student paying their way through uni by slumming it in Sainsburys as she looked down her nose at me and said; 'Why haven't you got recyclable bags to save the environment'. My answer to a similar comment in my local Morrisons was, I have plenty of recyclable bags for when I go to Lidl, but I can't use those for rubbish in my wheelie bin. When Morrisons start selling bio-degradable pedal bin liners, I'll buy them and use them for my rubbish. While they only sell not-degradable ones, I'll have the free ones from the checkout, thank you very much. All of a sudden he was on my side, telling me he had suggested that very thing. And I do check at intervals to see if they have them yet. Jacquie in Lincolnshire To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
Re: [lace] Re: Polyethylene in UK
You might be able to buy it to make your own , but I said there aren't any (commercially made) pillows made of it that I know of. And Sue was looking for a pillow she could buy. I am assuming the polyethylene is the self healing, white bubbly looking stuff, (a bit like the inside of an Aero chocolate bar for those in the UK) with a slight give if you press it. And it squeaks as you put pins into it. I have seen it used in the US and Canada, and I think I have one pillow made of it. I don't much like the feel of using it, and it is hard work to get the pins in and out. It is easier to carve though than polystyrene, to shape a rounded edge, as it is slightly rubbery. A lot of these insulation type materials are commercially listed but are for the building and industrial trades, so you can only buy them in very large quantities out of all proportion in both price, and in terms of storage for the surplus, if you only want one pillow. For example the site you found says The material is available in a range of grades suitable for a wide range of industrial and general applications and high density polyethylene is widely used in automotive, leisure and industrial applications and is particularly suitable for the fabrication of tanks, silos, hoppers etc. Unfortunately they will almost certainly be selling it in large sheets, not in 2' square blocks. For making pillows I buy dense polystyrene designed for roofing insulation. It also comes in large sheets (from memory) about 2' x 6', and a couple of inches thick. Even that I have to buy in packs of four sheets, so it makes an awful lot of pillows!!! However DH also uses it to insulate his beehives in the winter and uses more of it than I do. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
Re: [lace] Another crochet hook correction
It's not the hook itself that determines the size (hence the problem you've recently had with SMP hooks). Robin, it's not a *problem*! The tinier the better. I appreciate that it's the shaft that's the bit that's measured, but it's the hook itself that has to get through the appropriate hole. Once that's in place, the shaft will follow and at that point you are right, 0.05 of a millimetre doesn't make a lot of difference. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] Crochet hook correction
I was having a very senior moment this morning but fortunately Jane P pointed out to me that my decimal point is in the wrong place! I did of course mean 0.45mm and 0.5mm hooks. The last ones from SMP have had such tiny hooks that on some of them it has needed careful examination to decide which side the hook is. These are ideal for finer threads, but I use a range of sizes to suit the thread. They are certainly smaller than the more expensive 0.45mm ones. The bit that Susan didn't understand I will try to explain again. The other day was saying that I show people how to push the thread through, rather than pulling it. This means the thread it sitting aroung the smooth bit of the crochet hook just above the hook itself, and it being pushed by that almost immediately it pops up through the sewing. It is a little a bit like using the hook as a needlepin, but the hook itself stops you dropping the thread all the time, as can happen when you are trying to master the latter. I then pass the whole of the shaft of the hook through the loop, or thinking about it the other way round, slide the looop to the handle end of the crochet hook. I can use this to hold the loop up in the air as I pass the second bobbin through to finish the sewing, and keep it in the loop until it is almost on the surface of the lace pillow which reduces the chances of it catching on pins. However, even the finest hooks are sometimes too course for Honiton, because of the closeness of the pinholes, and I would definitely recommend that you become completely competent with one before you try to use it for Honiton. You may find you can use it in some places but not in others, and always use it gently so you don't damage the bars you are sewing into. Cheers, Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
Re: [lace] Picots - so hard to change
I have said on arachne several times over the years that theres no point in doing twists after the picot; this is what I was taught by Pat Read in the mid 1980s and I how I have done them and taught them ever since. If you analyse where the twists go, the ones before the pin form the cord around the pin; like the jam in the sandwich it sits between the two threads making the picot. But any twists after the pin just make a leg between the picot and the edge of the lace and can push the picot at an angle to the edge, rather than it sitting square on to the edge. The number of twists depends on the thickness of the thread relative to the pin size. There is no magic number. This is one of the things which you should work out as you do your first picot of the piece (or even better, as you do your thread sample!); you need enough twists to make your cord around the pin the right length to fit the pin neatly. Too few and the picot can look scruffy and the threads may not be be held tightly together, too many and you will have trouble making the picot smooth. A thick linen might only need three or four twists even around a heavy pin, whereas 180 Honiton thread can take easily take 7 or 8 twists around a very fine pin. On the same theme, make sure all your pins are the same size or your careful calculations won't work! I see lots of people with pin tins and cushions of assorted sizes. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] re: Picots - so hard to change
The instructions for keeping the threads slack until the the pin is in place are excellent; the problem with the Nottingham instructions is the three twists before, three after the pin. The three before form the picot itself, the three after have nowhere to go. If you look at the picots in the Nottingham books they are all at an angle to the edge, with the teardrop shape pushed uphill. I taught myself picots from the Pamela Nottingham books, and at my very first lesson with Pat Read she asked me how I was doing them as they didn't sit straight, and that's when she showed me her way. If you do five twists before the pin is placed, and then just one or none after you will find that the teardrop can sit with its centre line at right angles to the edge. Pat Read actually places the second, previously inner bobbin (that goes round the pin above the cord) to the outside, which is a twist on the left or a reverse twist on the right. It closes off the lower side of the picot, but doesn't push it out of line at all. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Re: roller pillow and lace
The other thing to consider when working on a roller is the length of the pattern repeat. Because of the curve of the roller, the optimum sweet spot to work on is usually only about 2 inches maximum. If you are doing a wider edging with a longer repeat you will find you have to keep dodging about catching up one bit to the next rather than being able to work as far as possible on a diagonal line (a bit like doing a garter where you have to keep both sides going at the same time, to do the ribbon slot join in the centre). Another reason to sample working it on a roller before starting. Also, Sue, if you are thinking of using the same travel pillow where you have been asking how to store and protect a small piece of straight lace, where are you going to put the bulk of a table cloth edge? Finally, you may have said but is this to be lace for a round/oval cloth, or are you gathering the lace at the corners? If you are working corners you'd be better on a block pillow the whole time. Jacquie in Lincolnshire. Our gas was to be cut off today so DH got up early and put both the central heating and the gas fire on full to warm the house. Half way through the morning a note arrived to say Wednesday is cancelled (really!) and the gas is turned off tomorrow instead. Snow in Drumnadrochit, North of Scotland - first 2011 photos of granddaughter in the snow have just arrived. Hope it doen't get this far south yet. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Beveren lace
When in doubt, ask the lace fairy! _http://lace.lacefairy.com/Lace/ID/BeverenID.html_ (http://lace.lacefairy.com/Lace/ID/BeverenID.html) for pictures, description and a link to the Beveren lace school. Jacquie in a very chilly Lincolnshire, where they are replacing all our gas pipes this week! No heating all day Wednesday. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Overcharging, The Lace Guild's Apology and Explanation
As a member of The Lace Guild Executive Committee I would like to say that we discussed this problem at the meeting which was taking place this last weekend. We all immediately agreed that the rate charged in this instance was not acceptable, or what was intended or normal, and that the excess would be refunded as soon as was possible. The Chairman said she was writing to give the apologies of The Lace Guild for this error, but whether she has been able to yet or not I don't know as she was not going home directly after the meeting. Normal practise in the office is for the order to be made up, then weighed. The actual cost of postage is calculated (plus VAT where applicable) and added to the cost of the goods before the payment is put through, so the addition to the cost of the goods is the postage. In the case of Daphne's order, as she said, it was added up from the column on the list showing the amount of postage for individual items; the intention of this column is to give the buyer an idea of the maximum their PP should be, the most that should be expected to appear on their card bill or on a âNot to Exceedâ cheque payment. This was done in error and it should not happen again. Since the weekend I have been in discussion with the staff at The Hollies and other Committee members to seek ways to ensure that this will not happen again, and to simplify and clarify the order form. We hope that this error is an isolated one, and we acknowledge it needs correcting. We are rectifying it as soon as we are able to, bearing in mind that apart from three part time staff (who are always very busy and are currently dealing with a real Christmas rush), we are all volunteers. Once again I would like to publicly apologise to Daphne and to reassure all Arachneans that we do take all feed back seriously, good or bad. Obviously I hope that in hindsight she won't feel that she has to leave the Guild over this matter. Jacquie Tinch Lace Guild Executive Committee member. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace-chat] Overcharging, The Lace Guild's Apology and Explanation
As a member of The Lace Guild Executive Committee I would like to say that we discussed this problem at the meeting which was taking place this last weekend. We all immediately agreed that the rate charged in this instance was not acceptable, or what was intended or normal, and that the excess would be refunded as soon as was possible. The Chairman said she was writing to give the apologies of The Lace Guild for this error, but whether she has been able to yet or not I don't know as she was not going home directly after the meeting. Normal practise in the office is for the order to be made up, then weighed. The actual cost of postage is calculated (plus VAT where applicable) and added to the cost of the goods before the payment is put through, so the addition to the cost of the goods is the postage. In the case of Daphne's order, as she said, it was added up from the column on the list showing the amount of postage for individual items; the intention of this column is to give the buyer an idea of the maximum their PP should be, the most that should be expected to appear on their card bill or on a âNot to Exceedâ cheque payment. This was done in error and it should not happen again. Since the weekend I have been in discussion with the staff at The Hollies and other Committee members to seek ways to ensure that this will not happen again, and to simplify and clarify the order form. We hope that this error is an isolated one, and we acknowledge it needs correcting. We are rectifying it as soon as we are able to, bearing in mind that apart from three part time staff (who are always very busy and are currently dealing with a real Christmas rush), we are all volunteers. Once again I would like to publicly apologise to Daphne and to reassure all Arachneans that we do take all feed back seriously, good or bad. Obviously I hope that in hindsight she won't feel that she has to leave the Guild over this matter. Jacquie Tinch Lace Guild Executive Committee member. To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Lace Classes
If a sample is a *sample*, rather than a sample-which-I-can-also-use-as-a-bookmark, then mistakes and changes of mind left in are more useful than mistakes corrected. So unless there is a mistake which is stopping you going forward, leave them in place. Even errors such as leaving two pairs out at the same place, so you are a pair short several pinholes on might be useful to a beginner as a reminder of what it looks like if you do that particular thing, as they can easily see that the pairs enter the next unit at the wrong angle. So long as you can correct yourself reasonably quickly, leave it there. Once the sample is completed, mount it in the centre of a page and use arrows and speech bubbles to point to and comment on all the errors, tensioning defects, and of course all the good points. For example, for larger spiders, the number of twists used for the different length legs can be recorded, but the experimental ones can be left in so you can see why you decided on that final option. When you are actually working the piece the sample refers to, you have a visual record of the 'variations' (surely a better description than mistakes) you have made at particular places, and the cure and a correct version to compare it to. If you undo it to get a perfect sample, you may not realise that you are repeating things you decided you didn't much like. Add the thread that was used to make it and you have a permanent useful lace record rather than a scrap to throw away because it was awful. Jacquie in Lincolnshire. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] to Glue or not to glue?
Guttermans fabric glue is available from Hobbycraft in the UK, at the branch near Gatwick airport at least. That's where I buy it, but for some weird reason the staff all say they don't stock it and it's kept with the patchwork rulers and rotary cutters, not with the other glue. Pure serendipity I found it browsing one day a more than a year ago. And a month or so ago they still had it, and it was still not with glue. I got it as it's what the Spanish ladies in Spain used to mount their fans onto the stitcks. They were amazed I'd not heard of it. It's one that can be applied and then used as an iron on adhesive so it doesn't soak into the textile. I also suggested to Sue that she could melt the ends of the thread. A quick touch against an electric hotplate would do it. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Amounts of thread
Ilse said A very small knot is hardly noticed in larger pieces. And therein lies the difference between the common practice on the continent and the UK. We tend to double up the thread for a SHORT distance, rather than knotting. I say short because some people forget they are working with double thread and just keep going. I have seen pillows where several threads are being replaced at the same time (try to avoid that) and they are all being worked as double threads! Yes, this will show. And contrary to most people's instinct, the most inconspicuous place to double up the new thread to replace a fan worker is in the tightest short rows at the end/start of fans, rather than in the more spread out bit in the centre. These are the ones most likely to run out. When I was in Spain, one of my Hinojosa pillows was being used as a demonstration pillow, and when three threads were broken over course of the week, the replacements were knotted in. I just shrugged and thought When in Rome But when I got home and looked properly, the first of the three knots (ie furthest back!) had neatly positioned itself in the dead centre of one of the twisted bars of thread. That I could not live with so the whole lot was undone and redone without knots. Back to Sue's original question. According to Geraldine Stott in her A Visual Introduction to Bucks Point Lace, four times the length of pricking is a good rule of thumb, so it sounds as if you are spot on. You have realised the exception of the fan workers and if there is a continous trail, for example, those workers would also need some extra thread. But as you are measuring the amount of thread you are putting on, why not measure how much thread you have left to help you better judge for your next piece. I agree with Ilse that it is often better to join threads in than to waste loads, and if you are doing a large project you need to bite the bullet and accept that you are going to have to add threads at intervals rather than overfilling your bobbins in the hopes that it will be enough. But for a smaller project, where the bobbins are big enough to hold all the thread in one go, it is really frustrating to get to within the last few inches and have to start replacing thread after thread. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] The power of arachne, I hope
I have great hopes that arachne will live up to its usual high standard as the world beater help line regarding lace issues. I am shortly to teach for a week, and one of the students from the Bristol area has to collect her pillow and bobbins from a teacher in Clevedon. Unfortunately she has made a mistake copying the phone number and doesn't know the house number. All the information we have is that the teacher is called Meryl (or maybe Meriel) and she lives on Kenn Road. If anyone could help, please contact me off forum. Many thanks Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] In defence of speed
Clay said - It seemed to take forever, and I vowed I would never again work a project in which I could not enjoy the process from start to finish. and I do not have a burning desire to finish, just a compulsion to make the lace as beautiful as I possibly can. So... speed is never an issue. May I be so bold as to say that these two statements are a little contradictory? If you were able to work faster the scarf would have grown quicker and would not have seemed so tedious, while for more challenging and enjoyable projects, working faster (while maintaining the same high quality) means that you would be able to make more of the designs you are inspired by. It's a win win situation, surely. Also, just because you can work faster doesn't mean you have to if you would prefer not to in any particular situation. Even though you are nearly finished on a project you have loved working, you do say that you have the next few lined up. Would you really think any less of your finished lace because it took you six months to make instead of eight? There would have been exactly the same amount of study needed, the same new techniques mastered, the same number of bobbin moves, the same number of pins placed. It also means that within the same (longer) time frame you would be able to challenge yourself more, learn more new techniques, make larger pieces that you might otherwise hesitate about starting. Perhaps the lack of satisfaction with your more quickly produced pieces of embroidery which didn't please you as much as the bigger projects was simply because they didn't challenge you enough, rather than the time they took to make. Somewhere along the progession of this discussion there seems to have crept in a slight inference that speed equals inferior work. Although perhaps for some people working faster might mean they cut corners on the tensioning, or leave less than excellent work because they don't want to 'waste time' undoing, for most people who work fast, it is because they are handling the bobbins efficiently and moving their fingers faster. They will be just as meticulous with the quality of the finished work. A good example would be Pat Read; her fingers move so swiftly it is difficult to exactly see how she moves the bobbins, but no-one would suppose that the quality of her lace could be improved, while the quantity she is able to make is to be envied and appreciated by all of us who benefit from her enormous output. Jacquie in Lincolnshire, who would love to be able to work faster. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Lace sample book
There are Thomas Lester's Bedfordshire samples, samples from Luton museum which are point ground, and so forth. But those don't have pages of directions. The formula of pages of directions and a *picture* of a sample is fairly standard to this day so we'd need a lot more information to track down the specific one you mean. By pages of directions do you mean the old-fashioned way such as in the early DMC books where each pinhole was numbered to match the directions? But I wonder as you specify samples rather than pictures if you'd seen (or heard of) a much rarer book where the instructions are illustrated by pieces of real lace? If so, I don't know what this is. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Query about exclusively for you
Before I open this, is it another spam post from a hacked computer? It's unlike an arachne post to be so enigmatic. If it is genuine, could I ask that posters of whatever should be a little more informative (ie it's a link to .. which you may like to look at) Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Wrapps per inch
NO, tension by the same hand can vary quite significantly! But surely not as much as us each doing our own. So long as the winder is aware of the amount of tension they are putting on the thread, and with practise, there will be some consistency. Also I think I am right in saying that Brenda does more than one for each thread, and the final figure is an average. I have always found it an excellent book for selecting threads as substitutes to those suggested by a designer, or to change from one fibre to another, or to collect a group of very similar threads to sample for a particular grid. But NO book or chart will completely replace working a sample, because in the same way as each person will thread wrap differently, each person's lacemaking tension is different. Because of the more stretch/thinner thread relationship, someone with very firm tension can work with a thicker thread than someone who has slacker tensioning. Thus, if the original sample of a piece of lace is worked with a thread towards the thick range for that design, and another lacemaker with less tight tension works the same combination, the latter will most likely struggle to make the lace, and will end up with a clumpy looking piece of work. The reverse, of course, is that if your tension is tighter than the original lacemaker's, your lace may end up looking too whispy for your taste. So, particularly if you are about to start a large project, even if you have bought a pattern and the recommended thread, please take an hour or so to work a small sample of something like a cloth stitch diamond and a little ground; this you can unpin and have a sample to handle as well as seeing what it looks like, to decide if it is the right thread for you, your lacemaking with that pattern, and how you like your lace to look and feel. When the project itself may take you hundreds of hours, this small precaution is well worth doing. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Lace Tutors List
The Lace Guild are trying to update their list of lace tutors. If you teach lacemaking of any sort in the UK (any size, type or frequency of class) please log onto the Lace Guild website (_http://www.laceguild.demon.co.uk/_ (http://www.laceguild.demon.co.uk/) ) and follow the link on the home page for Updating Tutor List. There you will find the options of downloading the form as a Word document (which I guess you can complete on line if you use that software) or as a PDF file to complete as a paper copy. On the same page is a link to Rosemary, the librarian, if you want to send an electronic copy. Paper copies of course go to The Hollies, for the attention of Rosemary Green, at the address on the site. THE TUTOR DOES NOT NEED TO BE A LACE GUILD MEMBER to send in their details!!! We would like to know about all of you, so when we get enquiries we can suggest the best options. As not all tutors are arachne members (they don't know what they are missing), will all of you that go to classes ask your tutors if they have completed the form and encourage them to do so. Also perhaps this request could be added to the notices read out at lace group meetings. We would also be interested in details from teachers outside the UK, especially if you visit the UK occasionally. Please note that on the website there is a suggested cut off date of 30th April; you may ignore this - Rosemary is still collecting the information. Many thanks Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Question - bobbin lace pattern for sailboat
There was also a pattern of a sailboat under a rainbow with was given as a free internet pattern, via arachne, many years ago now. It was in the days before we had broadband access and it was big files and took agaes to download. I was able to use the pattern itself, but a lot of the other files that were with it were large unrecognised format to my computer - very frustrating after all the download time. A few years ago, I adapted it to a circle for a student to make in a big ring to hang in her window. It's made mostly in white thread, with colours used for the rainbow, boat sails and pennant. If anyone else remembers this pattern, knows if it is still available, and has a link, I for one would like to try downloading it again. I'm far more computer literate these days and might be able to access the other files. It originated in Europe - Germany? Netherlands? Possibly Sweden? Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Tutors in the Halkirk Area
Contact The Lace Guild to ask. If you're not a member (yet) their contact details are on their website _http://www.laceguild.demon.co.uk/_ (http://www.laceguild.demon.co.uk/) Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] New book of floral Bucks Point patterns
Jean, a couple of queries about the book. One of my students wants to get back into Bucks so this is timely, but I'd like to be sure I can answer her questions. There are (..) prickings for mats, a handkerchief corner and a small motif. How many mats? Or how many prickings in total? Except for the corner and the small motif, each pricking is accompanied by a picture of the lace and the thread used, and number of bobbins needed are given where the information was available. What are the corner and small motif accompanied by? I know there's a pricking for the corner as that's on the sample pages. Many thanks, Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Pricker cover
Thank you all for the many suggestions. Let me elucidate a little about Malvary's request for a cover for my pricker needle. As she said, the dense styrofoam doesn't stay on reliably, the cork (which was from a pressurised Cava bottle) also slips off when you're not expecting it to; ouch. Although it wasn't a full cork, I cut a cube that was plenty big to cover the point and some, and would think that loose in a bag a complete cork would be more likely to get knocked off than a smaller bit is. My Richard Gravestock pricker has a wooden handle, and despite having been modified by a puppy many years ago, is too fat for toothbrush type boxes. The whole point of my exercise is to have the lightest possible weight load in my tool bag - partly because I am lugging it to classes but also for flying, so I don't want to add another layer of wrapping to the pricker. I just changed from a clip-loc type plastic box to a fabric bag to reduce weight flying to Spain, which is why this is a recent issue, and in the autumn I am teaching Milanese lace at Ithaca (assuming enough people sign up!) so will again be lace weight-watching. I have some tubing, and will try that. If the internal dimensions are right it might push down over the collet and grip securely. For accurate pricking, I only have a very short needle point sticking out (0.5cm) which is probably one reason why it's difficult to get anything to stay on. I don't want to keep taking the needle in and out as the collet is tightened with pliers each time so the needle is secure. Carrying pliers as well would rather defeat the weight gains of changing from a box to a bag. I will also try the jewellery findings, either from stick pins or some earings which have a push on type not-butterfly; until I try the potential problem I can see is that my needle is probably a lot finer than most jewellery studs so it may slip out. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Lace Spotted
My students were talking about this in class last night, so thanks for the link to the picture. Someone thought it might be Irish crochet. Then as I was driving home, listening to the news, the BBC described it as hand embroidered. From what I can see it's not either, or needlelace. Looking at the motifs on the hat where you can see them more clearly, the fillings or structure of the leaves looks woven and could be made from a bias tape of some sort. The petals are less clear, but I suspect chemical lace motifs. I guess that applied by hand would count as hand embroidered to the uninitiated, in the same way as Kate's dress was hand made lace. Very attractive though, and certainly in keeping with the spirit of Irish crochet. Jacquie in Lincolnshire. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Lacemaker puzzle
Not sure if this should really be on chat but it is lace related... Today's All-Star puzzle is a picture of a lacemaker. Fame at last. Here's the link for it, and these puzzles are available forever. http://www.allstarpuzzles.com/picture/02988H.html Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Hand versus machine knitting (was Hand made crochet - not.)
Clay said Still, back when the machines were something of a novelty, there was a basic machine (made by Bond as I recall), that simply knitted. Any color work, cables, increases or decreases, etc., all had to be made by hand. So, people who made a garment on the Bond knitting machine were allowed to enter it to be judged in the same category as hand-knits. Looking at this from both sides, as I have a computerised machine and Mum used to judge knitting classes, the argument is flawed. A computerised machine can only select needle combinations, so the fancy knitting is *limited* to things such as fairisle, tuck stitches, weaving, and some lace patterns which can be produced by by working on some needles and not on others. It can't automatically do cables, any lace pattern that requires increasing stitches on one row and decreasing them on another, anything that requires short row knitting such as socks or bobbles. It also can't do the increases and decreases. All these are hand manipulated. But on the other hand, what any knitting machine can do, from the basic Bond or single bed to the most modern, is produce absolutely even stocking stitch, and if a ribber is available as well, very even rib stitches. Even when hand manipulating the stitches for cables and lace, this even tension is maintained. As the eveness and tension of the knitting is one of the biggest considerations when judging, next to the sewing up and finishing, it seems to me that for a considerable percentage of the possible marks, the machine knitter has an unfair advantage. Add to that the fact that even with a lot of hand work added, machine knitting is always quicker than hand knitting, then I consider it most unfair that they were allowed to compete in the same class. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Hand made crochet - not.
Seen in Sainsbury's yesterday. T-shirt labelled as having hand crocheted lace. It was chemical lace and didn't even look like crochet, but at not a lot of money what would one expect. Now, do I report them or leave people thinking they are wearing a little bit of hand made lace? Jacquie in Lincolnshire. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] antique bobbins
Hi Sue, the very best thing I have found is Granny Almans Old Fashioned Furniture Polish Reviver. It is a mix of linseed oil, distilled white vinegar and sugar! I don't know what the proportions are and have never bothered to try to work it out as it's not expensive. Phone 0116 255 8854 to see if they will send it to you. I see them at craft fairs and steam rallies. She does beautiful corn dollies and straw lace, he does soaps and the like, including the polish. You may have seen them if you go to that sort of event, but not realised about his polish, as I know they do go to East Anglia. They are based in Leicester. It is very liquid, and you need to shake it every time you tip it up as it separates very quickly, but it cleans off dirt without removing the patina, soaks into the wood and brings back a soft sheen. With very dry wood I usually have plenty on the cloth, and rub them over to remove the dirt then leave them to dry. I then give them another rub/pat with more polish and leave to dry (this doesn't take long) and when they don't seem to be absorbing any more, and have dried again, then I polish them up with a dry cloth. It is excellent for any furniture that needs tlc. All my Bucks thumpers and other old bobbins have been treated with it, and some were in a dire condition but now glow. Shame I'm not working on commission. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Spam again? Andrea Lamble
Looks like Andrea's computer has been invaded. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] RE: the new book from Martina Wolter-Kampmann happy birthday Ara...
I have written to Roseground to find out if they are going to stock it in the UK. They seem to have the best selection of European books. I use Ulrike's book a lot, but find that most people who have it expect it to work by osmosis from the book shelf. Once you work through some of her samples, there are a lot of excellent techniques in there. For a mat with lots of ground, her detour technique will make a near invisible join, and it's just this sort of design which is hard to join by traditional methods. Another good book for joins is the Springetts book on Magic Threads. This will show you near perfect joins for Beds lace. If there is even one more technique in the new book it will be worth the money to me. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Re: [the new book from Martina Wolter-Kampmann
I'm not sure if it's allowed either, but no-one complained when I posted about Mariña Regueiro's new Hinojosa book last week, so tell us a bit more, please. I am sure that information about new books is as essential as knowing about new threads or new lace days. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Alternatives to silk
Compared side by side on the same pattern lace made from silk is in my opinion far superior to cotton as I'm not a fan of the slubbish/fluffiness of cotton threads. But this surely depends what you are using your lace for, and what cotton you use. As you are looking for fine silk equivalents, I guess you don't need to launder your lace much. Silk floss thread can get quite fluffy during work, unless you are a very meticulous lacemaker. I would agree that some linens are slubby, but the good cotton threads aren't. Mostly they aren't fluffy either until you get to magnifying glass examination. Have you looked at the Egytian Gassed Cottons which go right to 180 and should cover all the thicknesses available in silk? If you are happy to use thread made from bamboo, do you realise that this is normally rayon made by a chemical process rather than the natural fibre being spun? The bamboo fibres are very short (3mm) and so can't make a good lace thread naturally. I thought that Bart and Francis had said their was, but looking on their website it doesn't specify, and it is spun with silk which then disqualifies it for you anyway. I have used the Sulky, Madeira, Coates etc rayon threads a lot for lacemaking, and find that the 40 weight is constant across all makes giving an enormous colour range. For Milanese type patterns the finished lace is as stiff as the same motif in cotton or silk, and quite unlike the original slippy thread . For Torchon where there is more space between the threads then it gives a softer drape to the lace. You may however be looking for a finer thread than this. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Little Urchin
I should have gone to look at the pictures when you posted your first post, because now I see what you made is a SEA Urchin. All this time I was imagining it being a hedgehog, the Middle English name for this being Urchin, and this term is still quite well widely used in the UK. Now I also understand why someone might want to put it over a stone. Not much good as a pincushion though! Jacquie in Lincolnshire. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Enciclopedia de las Senoras
That' s the Spanish translation of Therese De Dillmont's encyclopaedia of Needlework I don't think so at all... My Spanish isn't at all comprehensive but some of the text in the first section (where the are no pictures and that in itself is very different to Dillmont) seems to be food related. On page 43 it is about roasting coffee. In the next section where the pictures start the layout of those is different to Dillmont where the pictures are set into the text; these are lots squashed in together to fill whole pages. Finally, it seems to be as much a pattern book as a techniques book; towards the back there are lots of pages of embroidery designs whereas in Dillmont the designs are progressive to learn the next bit of technique. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Card versus photocopy paper
My contribution to this discussion is that personally I prefer to work on card rather than paper, so if only paper is available I use two or three thicknesses. This is because I like the feel of the support that the pricking gives to the pins. I don't always prick in advance - Withof and Hinojosa are pricked as you work, and my own designed Milanese I work in the same way. For strip laces I do tend to prick in advance as it makes it *much* quicker to place the pins accurately as you can feel the holes without needing to see them. For this reason, and after the recent discussion with David about the need to pin Point Ground ground at all, I am surprised he doesn't pre-prick, but I guess with a single layer of paper/film there wouldn't be much of a hole to feel; when I am pricking in advance I tend not to use the film as it heals over the hole and reduces the benefit of the work done pricking. From the quality of David's lace he is obviously well able to hit bullseye with most, of not all the pins VBG For my students though, it depends on who they are. Some of them really struggle to do a good pricking even when they don't have all the threads hanging over the dots, and for them I do encourage pre-pricking in a good light and with a magnifyer - even if they don't need to use one for the lace itself. Most actually prefer to do it, and I would never discourage that. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Lace Guild Exhibition Room Opens
Yesterday the new Exhibition Room at the Lace Guild headquarters, The Hollies, was officially opened. It is now in a downstairs room, and very light and airy. Several of the display cabinets have glass backs allowing a good, all round view of the lace displayed. It was actually opened by the Mayor and Mayoress of Dudley, as Chris Kelly (the MP for the area) was unable to get there in time. He did arrive later in the day, and has already put two photos on his Flikr page. The first is with Sue Dane, Chairman, outside the front of the building: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dudleysouthconservatives/5559261532/in/photostream/ The second is inside the room having a lace lesson from Eve Corrall: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dudleysouthconservatives/5559261236/in/photostream/ (I took that photo! Fame at last) Apparently his mother and aunt both make lace, but Eve said he didn't seem to know the basics such as that bobbins were called bobbins. Anyway, the new room is an enormous improvement on the much smaller and upstairs room that was used for the Museum Exhibitions previously. Much more accessible. As you can see on the photo, it is open all day Fridays, and other days by appointment. Rosemary the Librarian is also there on Fridays so if you visit you can look at all the books and pick her brains. Note that the Library is an upstairs room. The current exhibition is Ten Years of Aquisitions, and many of the items have been selected by the Museum Volunteers as their favourites donated during that time. The exhibition changes about every three months, and details can be found on the Guild website http://www.laceguild.demon.co.uk under Events. On the Museum and Library page is a lovely photo showing one of the runs of new display cabinets, and also a link to the Gallery which has some close ups of other lace in the collection - currently Point Ground. Related to the collections, don't forget that if you are a Lace Guild member they will send you a photo of a piece of lace from the collection every month, if you join the (completely free) Artifact of the Month Club. Contact the Hollies for details. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Lace Guild Assessments
I have written to Sr Claire privately regarding her particular queries, but if anyone ever has any questions regarding the Lace Guild Assessments I can probably answer them, or very shortly find the answer. I have been an assessor and moderator on this scheme and would always be interested in hearing your views on it, both good and bad, so the Lace Guild is in a position to keep up with the needs of lacemakers. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] fertility hankie
Brenda said I've always understood that the wheatears (pointed tallies) in Bedfordshire lace is the fertility symbol That seems most probable as the corn dollies, made (traditionally) from the last sheaf of corn to be cut, were a fertility symbol to ensure a good harvest the following year. So whether the fertility symbolism of the lace handkerchief is literally to wish the bride fertility, or whether it's to wish her prosperity in all she does is open to interpretation. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Lace: testing
just checking that my email is working A good idea to see if things are working is to post a question. Or just go the Arachne archives and see what the last post is. Currently it's Celia's post and Bev's reply to her. Soon to be mine. http://www.mail-archive.com/lace%40arachne.com/ Jacquie in Linconshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] lace days
One good place to start would be the Lace News Blog http://lacenews.net/ . Lots of UK lace days on that. Also a good place to send any Lace News to, to make it an even more comprehensive resource. Jacquie in Lincolnshire. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] British Symbols in lace
What an appropriate discussion to be having on St David's day. Has anyone ever seen a recognizable leek rendered in lace? No, and not in many other fibre arts endeavors either. Perhaps that's why they have the daffodil as well. But seriously, the leek with all its leaves uncut is a stunning shape - a far cry from the straight cylinder found in the supermarket. And like all the onion family, it has a large ball- shaped head of flowers. It would translate well in part laces, but could be more difficult in Point Ground or Torchon See http://www.historic-uk.com/HistoryUK/Wales-History/TheLeek.htm for a bit more history. It says that leek or daffodil are a matter of personal choice. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Re: British Symbols in Lace
Susan said, There can be much ado about royalty carrying on the symbolism Using that argument the Welsh symbols should be more dominant than the Irish shamrock, as we have the Prince of Wales, but (as far as I know) no member of the Royals connected with Northern Ireland. The shamrock motif is possibly the most frequently found one as it is very common in the Irish laces as well as Honiton. The Rose also turns up a lot, and I suspect that those two are the most popular because they are compact and instantly recognisable whichever way up they are. The thistle, although an attractive shape and basically symetrical, needs to be the right way up. Only the head is needed for everyone to know it's a thistle, but it also has distinctive leaves for a more ornate design. The leek, to be very recognisable as a leek, needs to be big with lots of spreading leaves. Again, a one way up shape, and far more complex than the thistle. The daffodil can be looked at from two directions. Head on, simplified and all in white, it could be mistaken for other flowers. In profile, as a unmistakeable daffodil, it is not a shape which fits into a design with ease. Does it keep its stem? Then it can look top heavy (which they are in real life). Do you add leaves? Very boring shape which could be from any strappy leaved plant. The first three emblems definitely have the edge for simplicity. Mum made a pulled thread embroidery cushion for the Queen's Golden Jubilee, and the daffodil caused her more problems than the other three emblems put together. And in answer to Lyn, whose post arrived while I was writing this, lace in Wales is as popular as anywhere else in the UK. I think the Lace Society was originally called The Lace Society of Wales or similar. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Finishing a handkerchief
Find a copy of Mounting and Using Lace, by Jean Withers. IOLI library perhaps? Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace-chat] Computer cables
Hi David Try the Unclutterer website, specifically the cable clutter links http://unclutterer.com/category/cable-clutter/ but also you could look at some of the workspace of the week ideas http://unclutterer.com/category/workspace-of-the-week Jacquie in Lincolnshire To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Lace in literature: a new find
Does anyone know - did the lacemakers expertly use one hand to move bobbins, the other to place pins? Not so easy to do with spangled bobbins, except I always do the twists at the end of the row and lift the pair back a bit with hte hand at that end, while the other hand fetches the pin to place under it. I guess if she was working a norrow braid lace, the stretching-for-the- pin movement would be what he noticed, as it would happen frequently. I try to get my students to do the same, as you can quickly train both hands to do both movements, but many of them claim they can't possibly put a pin in with their non-dominant hand. However, with unspangled bobbins and a bolster pillow, with practise you can. I was watching one of the teachers in Malaga and her right hand, mouth and brain were focussed on the detail she was explaining to the student, and at the same time the other hand holding two passives and a worker was able to weave the workers through the passives. I didn't believe what I was seeing the first time, but she did it over and over. My hands aren't big enough to hold three pairs in order, let alone weave them through each other. I've tried with one hand, two pairs and that's very slow, hard and clumsy. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Finishing off traditionally and cutting yardage?
On my first piece of lace the teacher told me to cut the bobbins off after I sewed and knotted each pair about 3 inches from the knots. Then to roll the dangly bits of thread together and over sew them. I'd spent months making a beautiful piece of extremely fine torchon only to completely ruin it in the finish. It is possible to do a VERY neat, VERY strong and nearly invisible join by this method, but it is nowhere as simplistic as your teacher made it sound. To begin the lace, select a starting along the edge of cloth stitch blocks (half stitch at a pinch) as far as possible, and zig zag the start line if possible so your eye isn't able to focus on a long straight row. The oversewing doesn't work as well in ground, there I'd darn the ends back as you do now. Next I'd make sure I did the sewings into the starting loop of the thread, as distinct from the pinhole next to that loop, it gives a better look anyway even if you're not oversewing, but many people do the latter. When I cut them off, I leave the ends a lot longer than 3 as it makes them easier to handle. Eight or ten inches at the very least. A thread at the start of each block needs to be long enough to do the sewing, so it's easier to leave them all plenty long enough. Now to do the oversewing. You will treat each block as a separate unit. Use as fine a needle as you can thread with the lace thread. A blunt one will pass between/under threads without splitting them. Thread the needle with one of the two threads at the corner of the block where you are starting, and following the dips and curves of the edge as it goes from pin hole to pin hole, oversew the other thread to the back of the lace (only pick up the thread as it passes behind another - put your needle in place and turn the lace over; you shouldn't be ble to see the needle) with just two stitches, under one thread only each time. The first stitch takes it sideways away from the pin, the next up/down to the next pinhole. Now you will add two threads into the bundle. Before you do, cut the first thread in half so you know which one it is. Twist the three threads together, and oversew them with another couple of stitches to the next pinhole. Now, cut out the short thread next to the last stitch, and halve the remaining two threads. Add another two, twist all four together and proceed to the next hole. Continue in this way, each time cutting out the shortened threads and shortening the other two before twisting in the new ones. When you have included the last two, and run out of edge, turn the corner and continue down the next side of the block. Do the next two stitches and cut out the shortened ends, do another two and remove the last two ends, then do another stitch before running the end back up through just a couple of the stitches you made. Although it seems very complicated, once you get started it is not too difficult to do. The thing to understand is that the edges of a shape in lace are not straight lines, but a series of curves from pin to pin; so long as the little cord follows this edge and is hidden by it, it will not show at all from the right side. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] What would YOU do?
In all the years I have demonstrated, I have never before had such an experience! Carol, I think the answer lies in that sentence. If you add to that all the years all the rest of us have demonstrated without having met such vile people, then you were extremely unlucky, and lightning rarely strikes twice. Yes, share your beautiful lace and bobbins with the world, but at the same time take a few more precautions. As you say many beautiful bobbins I assume they were spangled Midlands. How about using some invisible thread/fishing line through the spangles, knotted around a pin through every 10 or so pairs, so that first of all it is not obvious how they are held, and secondly it would be not so easy or quick for them to be released. They can then be spread out as if in work. Another thing is to make sure that it is not in a place where it could possibly be accidently knocked over, such as at the back of a larger display table that should solve that, as well as making it harder for it to be interfered with. Put it down to experience, and we have all learnt that if we should ever meet such unpleasant people, we need to be up on our feet quickly, quietly moving nearer to intervene. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Finishing off traditionally and cutting yardage?
Just cut it. If it is cotton or linen it won't unravel any more than bought cotton lace. I assume if you are cutting it you are putting it into seams. If you are really worried, machine across the lace just inside the seam allowance where the stitches will be hidden. Don't forget that lace can/will shrink so it's a good idea to preshrink fabrics by washing them, and also shrink the lace by either washing and mangling (see the archives for details), or at the very least steam pressing. This will also help to 'set' the threads (just like Jello Malvary - private joke). Don't use fray check or similar as they go stiff and can discolour. If you are putting a ring of lace around the bottom or top of something and you are cutting it from yardage, as distinct from making it exactly the right size and doing sewings into the start, then you can sew a normal seam across before trimming one seam allowance a little smaller and tucking the ends of the longer allowance over it before catching the fold down flat on the wrong side (Google run and fell seam to get the equivalent in fabric). Or you can overlap the ends wrong side of one to the right side of the other, matching the pattern exactly, before oversewing either side of a pattern row and cutting the surplus from front and back in a similar way to the traditional Flanders or Binche join. If you look in some old needlework books it shows this sort of approach. A very high proportion of old lace was made and cut off the pillow, without disturbing the work in progress. Why would you want to waste time keep setting up the lace? Jacquie in the UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] Follow up to square beads at Swanley
I have consulted the oracle as suggested, and it is even known which year I was at the Swanley lace day (I only went once in the 80s) as I was 'caught on camera'. The glass bead maker was D Ledger (Dennis? or maybe Derek?), but I had remembered correctly that he was elderly then so 25 years on it is unlikely that he still makes them. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
[lace] lace photos
I suspect it is the St Peterburgh equivalent of the Institute of Fine Arts where we studied in Moscow. The pieces shown look as if they might be the Graduate Show. In Moscow, the graduation pieces (in all the specialities) are *donated* to the institute's collection; I'm not quite sure how far up my back my arm would need to be to encourage me to donate those bits of lace. Also of great interest are the pieces in frames on the walls behind. They are the working drawings for the lace, which is what the designer will give to the 'factory' for the lacemakers to copy. They are drawn onto the coloured paper from the original draft, and each thread path is handpainted in with gouache paint and a fine brush. When you first see them, you have to be very close before you realise they aren't lace. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
Re: [lace] Modern Square Cut beads.
They are relatively easy to make; I have an article out of a woodworking magazine somewhere from many years ago - how to turn bobbins and make the beads to go on them. From what I remember the glass used is recycled from old wine bottles, cut into approximate squares with a standard glass cutter. Can't remember off hand how the hole is made, but I do know that the equipment needed is fairly basic. The article was (I am fairly certain) written by/about someone who used to have some connection with Swanley Lacemakers (Claire, help) and I know that at a Swanley lace day I went to in the 1980s he was there, making beads. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
[lace] Square cuts
Having read all the comments about square cuts etc, I must add that apart from the ones I have on antique bobbins, I don't use them. I don't like them for spangles as they don't sit together as well as round beads do, and they leave a gap of wire between them (do I fill it with a tiny bead? do I leave the wire showing?). Easier just not to use them at all :-) Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
Re: [lace] Re Hide some feeback
Just to point out that Hide isn't really a mis-spelling of Hyde, it's a phonetic spelling. When it is possible that neither the bobbin maker or lacemaker would have reached 21st century requirements for literacy (and let's face it, that level isn't very high) then Hide is perfectly acceptable. Even in the Parish records, where would assume the parish clerk would most likely be fairly well educated, the spellings change according to what the name was heard as. If the person registering the event couldn't read, they weren't in a position to say. I have this all the time as my surname is Tinch - quite unusual. It gets written as Linch, Pinch or Finch. NO, T for Tango. Jacquie in Licolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
