I tried the oft-suggested trick of wedging something between the module
and the cover, and it was always just a temporary fix.
Yeah, you need to clean the contact pins, _and_ clean and close
down the sockets too, which requires disassembling the piece that
bolts to the fender. Contact cleaner
And I thought the Frankenheap (same car, in gray) was rusty!
-- Jim
Luther you run the one with the inhibitor or the stuff meant for diesels
without inhibitor please. I might give it a whirl
Regards Tom Scordato Bellefonte PA
1979 240D
- Original Message -
From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent:
I have ben changing fuel filters in line and canister every 10,000 miles.
Manual says every 37K on a 1979 240D
Is this over kill or extra insurance. shoul I scale back? The groups
thoughts please.
Regards Tom Scordato Bellefonte PA
1979 240D 102K miles
Gentlemen...
I decided to replace the front disks on the shaggin wagin, ordered the new
ones from Rusty, and just for fun, since I hadn't done it in a while, read
the manual. Do you really have to replace the self locking hex socket
bolts that say one time use only? When I did the job on my old
Friends, why does MB sell the pads and rotors together- is it a good
thing to do these together? I was going to have the dealer do brake
pads and he only does them together. Is this a money robbing exercise
or is there some merit to changing both at the same time?
John Peterson
1991 300D
I had the Redline water wetter in my Saab- it did drop the temp by a
noticeable amount at idle in the summer.
John Peterson
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does that Wetter Water Redline stuff do anything?
Regards Tom Scordato
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For
Well, it cannot hurt to get the sawdust out
That wood powder stop leak stuff should be outlawed, it causes more
trouble than it fixes.
Do yourself a favor and pressurize it fully before driving the car --
you do NOT want to find out it has pinholes by overheating it and
cracking the
Rusty sells 'em separately, but I think the dealer will too...the underlying
question is if you are having him do the pads, why does he insist on doing
the rotor also. The only time you **have** to change rotors is when they
wear down to less than minimum thickness and can't be turned. I suppose
It actually is a good thing to do these together considering the cost. Chances
are pad and rotor sets are cheaper than they are if sold separate. Not always
necessary to replace the rotors unless you are on your second or third set of
pads. Also if there is considerable wear on the rotor or its
Friends, why does MB sell the pads and rotors together- is it a good
thing to do these together? I was going to have the dealer do brake
pads and he only does them together. Is this a money robbing exercise
or is there some merit to changing both at the same time?
It has to do with avoiding
I have been changing fuel filters in line and canister every 10,000
miles.
Manual says every 37K on a 1979 240D
Is this over kill or extra insurance. shoul I scale back? The groups
thoughts please.
I think the manual is closer to right than you are on this one.
Unless you are having problems
I just used loc-tite (blue stuff) on the old bolts and reinstalled at the
correct torque.
On 11/12/06, Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Gentlemen...
I decided to replace the front disks on the shaggin wagin, ordered the new
ones from Rusty, and just for fun, since I hadn't done it in a
Benz rotors need to be replaced every third pad change (that is, you
can run two sets of pads on them). They cannot be turned -- by the
time you get them smooth, they are almost always too thin, and this
will cause the pistons to seize in the calipers before the friction
material is worn out
OK, so do tell, I would like one of these 24 machines maybe.
Luther wrote:
I purchased a Prestone Flush and Fill Machine that checks coolant system
pressure, flushes the system with water, flushes with water and air agitation,
and fills the coolant from a graduated reservoir. Flushed the
u, Rusty
Michael Hall wrote:
Anyone have a source for a NEW 123 dash? We have a customer who wants to
put a new one in his 1980 300D - he didn't flinch at the $8xx dealer price,
but they say none are available in the US or Germany! That can't be right,
can it? If no new ones are
mine has expired
MICHAEL ESH wrote:
Could someone please run a CarFax for WDBAB23A6DB415136
Thanks in advance,
Mike in Michigan
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL
its overkill unless you ran into some bad fuel.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have ben changing fuel filters in line and canister every 10,000 miles.
Manual says every 37K on a 1979 240D
Is this over kill or extra insurance. shoul I scale back? The groups
thoughts please.
Regards Tom
they are robbing money. Disks will last thru many sets of brake pads
unless you run them down to the metal and they damage the rotor.
John Peterson wrote:
Friends, why does MB sell the pads and rotors together- is it a good
thing to do these together? I was going to have the dealer do brake
Mercedes rotors are never to be turned. If they get warped or wear
down, they are to be replaced.
Royce Engler wrote:
Rusty sells 'em separately, but I think the dealer will too...the underlying
question is if you are having him do the pads, why does he insist on doing
the rotor also. The
Over the last ten years, mine go two pad changes -- on the third, the
rotors are too thin.
Peter
For my 123 those rotors were amazingly inexpensive, too.
Chris K
Cayce, SC
- Original Message -
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Disc Brakes- Change Pads and Rotors?
In a message dated 11/12/2006 5:36:22 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I have ben changing fuel filters in line and canister every 10,000 miles.
Manual says every 37K on a 1979 240D
Is this over kill or extra insurance. shoul I scale back? The groups
thoughts
After removing the big line from the tank (this is a gas 126), I assume
you just unscrew the big fitting for the tank screen? What I need to
know, what size socket do you need to remove the tank screen?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
87
I agree but the stuff only works if you have a heat problem. Water Wetter
will not drop your temperature below your thermostat temperature.
But, if you have a heat problem it's not a known design flaw with the car
then the best solution is to ID fix the cause instead of adding something
to help
Just returned from a 70 mph drive and noticed no unusual noise, my good
neighbor, noticed the left rear wheel is tilted inward, in other words
the top of the wheel is tilted inward as the bottom is tilted outward by
a couple of degrees.
I jacked the car up and the wheel has no movement when
Bill Gallagher wrote:
Just returned from a 70 mph drive and noticed no unusual noise, my good
neighbor, noticed the left rear wheel is tilted inward, in other words
the top of the wheel is tilted inward as the bottom is tilted outward by
a couple of degrees.
And it's a wagon?
Isn't
Mitch:
It is a wagon. SLS is what?
How about the 400 mile trip? TIA
Bill
1981 300 TD
Mitch Haley wrote:
Bill Gallagher wrote:
Just returned from a 70 mph drive and noticed no unusual noise, my good
neighbor, noticed the left rear wheel is tilted inward, in other words
the top of
Self levelling suspension.
Bill Gallagher wrote:
Mitch:
It is a wagon. SLS is what?
How about the 400 mile trip? TIA
If everything seems tight and it doesn't ride like a buckboard,
I'd make sure the SLS reservoir is full of the proper hydraulic
fluid and go. I forgot a more likely problem, I believe the
Mitch:
Just check the SLS reservoir and it's at the full mark... Had the
sub frames checked about a year ago, it was fine alone with new
differential mounts .
If drive fine and steers well and will try the zig-zig tomorrow
. hope, I am not pulled over for drunk driving
Bill
I'd like to know more about this machine as well -
On 11/12/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
OK, so do tell, I would like one of these 24 machines maybe.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
I haven't tried a 126, but the 107 took a 1 13/16 socket. I took the
new one to Sears, and this was the only socket that fit it. I then
hadto grind down the outside diameter to get it into the hole - the
screem was off-center in the hole in the bottom of the trunk, and
wouldn't let the socket get
Good thing he over-exposed those shots, or we'd probably see daylight
through the some rust problems.
On 11/11/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
And I thought the Frankenheap (same car, in gray) was rusty!
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD
The frequency of change of rotors depends greatly on the type of pad used.
The more aggressive the pad the less life the rotors will have. Some places
advertise lifetime brake pads - that's because the rotors are being the
sacrifical item. *Something* is going to wear and if the pads are
Just returned from a 70 mph drive and noticed no unusual noise, my
good
neighbor, noticed the left rear wheel is tilted inward, in other words
the top of the wheel is tilted inward as the bottom is tilted outward
by
a couple of degrees.
On our SDL this was caused by a bent trailing arm.
I would say overkill. On a diesel, the result of a clogged filter is
merely a loss of power, no harm comes to the engine.
Depends on the diesel! The non- common-rail 24-valve Cummins motor
used by Dodge 'twixt 98 and '-2 (?) would eat the injection pump if
the fuel filter clogged. It has a
They are, every third set of pads, without fail so far.
MB uses fairly thin rotors to reduce unsprung mass, frequent
replacement is the trade-off.
Given how well the brakes work, I have no problem.
A set of rotors every 100,000 miles doesn't strike me as unreasonable.
Peter
Hi Everyone,
I'm new to the list, and I'm looking for an older Mercedes for both myself,
and my Dad. LarryT had given me some good adivse so far. I was wonder what
I should expect to pay for a either a sedan or wagon, late '80s to early
90's? Something with around 80,000-160,000 kms, I think
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