Nate,
I feel the same way. I have had countless offers to purchase my truck. First
when I lived on Vancouver Island, where there is nothing left there to restore,
and now back in Ontario where everyone thinks my truck is in really good shape
because the frame isn't rotted out from the
Cale,
I have a 1953 chev shortbox that also had only the driver's side mirror. I
wondered the same thing as you.
If you look kinda up underneath where the mirror should be mounted, the 3
holes are there, just in a piece of sheet metal below the actual sheet metal
that needs to be
Nate,
I was inspired by one of your last posts, to delve into what would it take to
plop a 261 into my AD truck. The later 235 in my truck was last rebuilt in
1985 so will need a rebuild at some point, sooner rather than later.
I don't live too far away from the wreckers that is
Nate,
Thanks ever so much for putting the time and effort into your lengthy but
appreciated post. I'm sorry, but I have to ask a couple more questions.
Will the gas mileage be significantly more? Can't I use my old clutch plates,
as I just had them all replaced and redone, so they
Dave,
Thanks for your input. I always like to do the research before I go and get
used parts from the wreckers. I may take my uncle with me, who was a factory GM
mechanic during those days, and may help to identify the engine.
Thanks again!
Janice
dave austin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
? You can now and for some time get a 12V
coil that needs no resister. Also I have run my '46 truck and '47 tractor with
original coil and resistor with no bypass for nearly 20 years with no problem.
Lee Prosser WA
Lees' '54
- Original Message -
From: Janice Bell
To: old-chevy-truck
Bill,
I have a dumb question. Why would you have to bypass the ballast resistor
during engine starts? I have converted my truck to 12 volt, but do not have
this wire to the lug and my truck seems to work fine. Please educate me.
Janice
Hanlon, Bill (ISS Houston) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Mike,
To answer your question, even though I have researched into converting to an
HEI, I do not have an HEI. I still have points on my truck. So how come my
points have not burned up then? I have never had the truck start, but not keep
running. Perhaps it is possessed - hehe!
Bill,
Great shots, thanks for sharing them!
I loved all the vehicles, and the photos of the wonderful interiors, engine
compartments and such. But the best one for me of all, was the Hudson pickup
truck. What a beauty, wish I had one. I never knew these existed, but they sure
are nice.
Jim.
I thought I would put my 2 cents in about the dual action fuel pump. I
decided to put one in my truck which worked a lot better than the original one.
In fact, it worked too well, because my after-market wiper arms lifted right
off the windshield during use. I was able to correct
Dave,
Well Dave, I must agree with Nate. I changed my truck to 12 volts and used
one of those white resistors that they use to downgrade from the ignition coil,
possibly from 12 volts down to about 9 volts. Well, that fuel guage burnt up
quick - the wire on the litttle spools in the
Jeff,
Thanks for the sealer information. I have rebuilt 2 of these Rochester carbs,
with the hopes of getting rid of the leaks, but to no avail. I was thinking the
other day about levelling the mating surfaces of the top and bottom halves, but
you have addressed that issue in your email.
Steve,
I don't have a neoprene gasket, so that was good advice. I think I will try
to use new cap screws too, with the nylon lock nuts and be very careful when
tightening them down. Thanks for you input - much appreciated.
By the way, I have about 3 or 4 B carbs, and now I know why I
Nate,
You're right about how simple these carbs are, and I did have to rebuild the
thing at the side of the road once already and it was dead simple. However, the
B runs good all the time, but I do hate the brown stains, and everyone who
looks at the engine inevitably says, Do you know
Nate,
Why did these Rochester B carbs leak around the middle anyway? Do the bodies
warp easy? Could I use some silicone gasket glue to prevent the leak, or should
I just change out to a Carter? Please advise.
Janice
vwnate1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You're looking for a
Nate!
Didya see that nice ORANGE engine block on the GMC 302? hehe
Janice
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Jose,
My vote for most difficult nut to take off is the one of the small ones that
holds the oil pressure, fuel guage etc. onto the dash, back of the dash,
expecially the one that is closest to the column and the highest up in the
dash. I invented some new swear words for it. Just my one
Dave,
Your tip makes perfect sense to me. After all, etching primer has phosphoric
acid in it, and is used to etch or roughen up the metal surface before the
high solids primer goes on. Great tip!
Janice
-
Be smarter than spam. See how smart
Mike,
Just my two cents. I was told by an old timer when I was going about doing my
wiper motor, to open it up and pour in some red tranny fluid for a couple of
days to soak the paddles that rotate back and forth, and make them more
supple.
Then, I couldn't find just a gasket to put
needle yourself but IMO best thing to do is
take it up to a speedometer shop and have them go through it.
Alan
'50 Chevy 1/2 ton
- Original Message -
From: Janice Bell
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 5:33 AM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Wiper motor
Antonio,
I also by fate own a 1953 chev pickup with a later 235 in it. I am just about
to order the short shaft water pump. There is a special fan that has to be
purchased (from Jim Carter) as I am told by them, that needs to go on this
installation.
Jeepers, I hope to not have
Allen,
No, an entire reporoduction front end is not available at JC yet. I have
decided to NOT put power steering in my truck, because I do not want to hot rod
it. My arms just get tired steering, especiallly parallel parking, but I don't
want to redo the entire front end either. Thanks
Nate,
I was beginning to wonder if there might be something wrong with my truck. I
just found out that if I put on radial tires, and I did, P235 75R15's, then the
tech fellow at Jim Carter's said then the toe in has to be adjusted to 1/8
instead of around 1/2. He also said I should make
old bias-ply tires rather than radial tires. I don't
really favor any of these. ...bill
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Janice Bell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Allen,
No, an entire reporoduction front end is not available at JC yet. I
have decided
Oh Tom,
I'm such a techno weinie that there aren't many exciting pictures of my truck
on the website. I think 3. However, I have just got a digital camera, so here
we go into the world of computer-hell! Once I get her out of storage, I am
going to do lots to her, so will document her
Hi there,
Has anyone here done the power steering conversion using the stock steering
column and front end? I have a 53 short box chev pu with the later 235 in it,
and wish to look into adding power steering with a minimum of butchery.
Jim Carter advises going with the Pacer front
Bill,
I was talking to the tech guy at Jim Carter's today. I have to purchase a
whole AMC Pacer front end, the adapter kit, the tilt column, the power steering
box, and another kit. It's too much work.
I was just wondering if anyone out there did it differently and cheaper, but
Tom,
Nice pix! Where did ya get those monstrous bumper guards?
Janice
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
dazysnow,
I agree on the epoxy primer. It is very hardy indeed. Sometimes, people used
to use etching primer before the epoxy primer, to get a tooth on the freshly
sandblasted surface, which holds the epoxy primer better. Now, I think the
etching primer is a matter of choice.
The
Dazysnow,
I originally bought laquer based interior paint for my cab, from Jim Carter.
This was before the border was closed to send a dangerous thing like paint
across it to Canuckville.
Unless you're a purist, I would recommend using acrylic enamel...it is a much
hardier paint. Laquer
Hello,
Does anyone here know of how I can repair my original heater switch? I own a
1953 chev, and the heater switch is a box shaped maroon bakelite one with a
white coloured switch that moves up and down.
The switch runs using resistance, and on the back of it, is a coil of wire is
embedded
Hey Casey,
I know this is going to sound dumb, but what is that thang on the top of the
driver's side fender? Whatever it is, I like it. Nice snow too!
Janice
-
Now you can have a huge leap forward in email: get the new Yahoo! Mail.
Walt
My apologies to you. but many thanks for your input.
Janice
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Jimmy
Just my thoughts. The automotive upholstery trade takes that sheet magnet
material (used in sign shops), cuts it into appropriate sizes and attaches it
to the upholstered panels (with glue, sewn in pockets, whatever) then the panel
sticks magnetically to the roof. I don't know how
Nate
Thanks for the info. Yes, my truck does have a cast number on the left front
(driver's side) of the cylinder head. It is #3636848. So, I do have one that is
a 1956 or newer. It also has GM4 below that number.
Near the bottom of the distributor, in front of the starter, the truck
Thanks Walt. Do you know where the engine casting number is located? I have
searched the inliners site and have come up empty handed.
Janice
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Gee, thanks for the advice everyone. I kinda thought that flat pad by the
distributor was the number, but it must be cast, not stamped. (Thanks Jeff).
B - its too cold to be wrenching, over minus 20 these past few days. Think
I'll wait til it warms up a tad, to be taking the starter off.
Chris
I am no mechanic, but I knew of a fellow who tried a triple carb combo on his
1950 chev truck, didn't like it, and then went with a 2 carb setup. On the old
Ariel Square Four motorcycles, the engines had a habit of blowing up. This was
because of the engine configuration, where
Fred
I've got a 1953 half ton and have had no trouble getting parts. Good luck on
your restoration.
Janice
fritzthesalmonshark [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Finally got my father-in-law's '53 Chevy 1/2 ton up here to Kodiak
Island, Ak and into the shop. Great winter project.
Nate
If you find a good coffee holder, let me know. My poor truck is in storage
right now, being the cold Canadian winter and all. I love to go garage saling
on the weekends in the summer, because my truck can take larger items home on
the spot, and I get a lot of comments, AND find a lot
Please Roy!
Tell me what exactly is better. Maybe Santa might get myself one!!
Janice
rmarks10 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I finally got the sway bar on my '51 3/4 ton and, man, what a
difference. I love you guys!
Roy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
James
The supplier formerly known as Chevy Duty? I must say I laughed my exhaust
off at that one.
Janice
James Tye [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The oil pan tabs were often the first casualty when farmer jones took
the pan off to adjust the rods. Fortunately I have seen them
Jeff
I am sorry to hear about your darn problems with that generator. I too had my
fill, and sympathize with you. Let me know if it floats. . .
Janice
Jeff Pohlar [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Motoring the generator is the first thing Steve the rebuilder does
when I
bring the
Charles
You mentioned that you had an anti sway bar installed on your truck. Can you
tell me what difference it has made in the drivability of your truck, and was
it hard to install?
Janice
charles olson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
IMHO: the less you pay, the less you get; the
Hi Charles!
Sorry to bug you again, but I was wondering, did you install the anti sway bar
in the front or the back? I have seen that both can be bought.
I was hoping you would say the lateral movement was quieted down, because I
have had a slight problem with this as well, and wasn't
James
I have a Canadian 1953 chev, and it came from the factory with a 235. I have
documentation of that, because I got the package for my truck from General
Motors. It is somehow different than the later 235's
janice
James Tye [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I wouldn't take less
like the old 216?
Bob
Janice Bell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
James
I have a Canadian 1953 chev, and it came from the factory with a 235. I have
documentation of that, because I got the package for my truck from General
Motors. It is somehow different than the later 235's
janice
James Tye [EMAIL
Hi
I love fiddleheads, so I had to email you. Congratulations, you have caught
GMitis. Get in touch with the factory in Oshawa, Ontario, Canada. I keep saying
that to people with Canadian trucks, so I hope I'm not boring some of you out
there.
They may have some info for you. They
what the album called...
Nate...Thanks for the comments. Yes, a 216 that purs and pings like
a cat on a bell.
BTW Nate, as you can see I'm a Southern Gentelmen also, proven by
the fact I spoke to Janice first ;-)
Rusty
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Janice Bell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote
Scott's Super Trucks in Penhold, Alberta, Canada should have your u joint stuff
in stock.
Janice
vwnate1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Albion ;
The good news is : they used this tranny up into the 1978 model year on
millions of trucks and there's bunches oif them laying in corners
My truck is supposed to be Mariner blue too! What a nice rich colour! Interior
is very nice.
Janice
vwnate1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
GREAT CEASAR'S GHOST ! that's a fine looking rig there ! is that
Mariner Blue ? .
I see you've still got the 216 engine.
NICE TRUCK ! .
-Nate
Tom
I might be interested in the 4 15 inch rims that you have. Will the nubs
actually hold the original type hubcaps on them? I have a whole set of the
clips, could these be put on?
Janice
Tom C [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Dennis, I have 4 rims.all 15, and all 6-hole
Hi there!
This is just a stupid little comment, but it happened to me and I thought,
maybe it might help. When I bought my 53 chev, the gas guage would not go above
the halfway mark no matter what. I found out that someone had put the sender in
sideways. When the gas level came up in the tank,
Walt
I must beg to differ. I have tried many a time to access this link, on its
own, and via the Stovebolt page, and have never had any success.
Janice
Walt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The link works.
Copy and paste in your browser.
www.1954advance-design.com/
Then go to
How nice are they and what colour are they? If they are green glass, I could be
interested.
Janice
get in touch with me via this website
Rojo Horse [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have two nice orgional corner window out of a 53 chevy for sale.
-
:
They are clear, I would like $30 plus shipping
Janice Bell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: How nice are they and what colour are
they? If they are green glass, I could be interested.
Janice
get in touch with me via this website
Rojo Horse [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have two nice orgional corner window out
Jeff
Because I used to own my own sign business, I know of other problems with
having to install decals or vinyl over bumps. One of the most common problems
for sign people, is installing self adhesive vinyl over the rivets in the
surfaces of buses for example. It was such a problem that
Hey there!
Have you ever considered writing or phoning the General Motors factory in
Oshawa, Ontario, Canada for the info you require? I did, and got a full package
on my truck, for a price. They have an Antique Services Division, which may
have the info you require. They did not keep the info
Scott
I have a question for you. I had my manifolds plastic beaded on my later 235,
then without putting my oily hands on it, I coated both with Por 15, 3 coats
each. The darn thing went rusty anyways. You have Por 15 experience, have you
tried the manifold paint with good results?
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