According to a couple of sources, a complete 216 weighs in at about 650 lbs
with flywheel, clutch, and bell housing. The granny four speed weighs a
little over 100 lbs. The 700R4 probably weighs 90 lbs. Jeff
-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL
Remarkably, as happens every so often, two different groups discussing the
same subject. I forwarded this entry from the napco group. I'll add what
someone said while responding to this; Most of the new synthetics do not
have the ZDDP additive.
Jeff
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL
The engine designers make minor differences in cam design (profile), timing
advance, and carb tuning to fit each application that the engine is
destined. The engine designers don't just develop the most hp they can and
then use it in everthing because it doesn't work best that way. One fairly
Roy, they are typically a moderate press fit but corrosion etc has probably
got it stuck. The proper puller will grab the balancer with the threaded
bolt holes in the hub for that purpose. Pulling by the outer ring will
likely damage the balancer. Check to make sure someone hasn't drilled and
Ken, I pretty much agree with the others so far. One additional thought,
just make sure that the trailer brakes are working correctly or you will
have a problem stopping it.
Jeff in Clermont, FL
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Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To
Not so fast Mark, I had to look close to see if that was a hacked up Panel
but it appears to me that is an early Canopy Express? Can anyone confirm it.
Jeff
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Roy, I agree that under the right (or wrong) circumstances, more fuel
pressure than necessary can cause a rich condition by simply overiding the
needle/seat and thereby overfilling the float bowl which will upset the carb
towards rich.
I think I already mentioned earlier in this thread that I
Wow, 16 tons. Isn't that about what the real one weighs??
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Yahoo! Groups Links
* To visit your group on the
I can't say for sure about a 48 one ton model, but the later model (like my
53) drum will not come off until you remove the entire hub from the spindle.
My drum is bolted to the inner side of the hub so the wheel bearings etc
must be removed first and then you slide the whole assy off. Does the 48
Well, the toilet won' t blow up but the fill valve may begin to leak until
the tank overfills. Just as in a carb, the fill valve (needle/seat assy in
the carb) is the only thing under pressure, the tank (fuel bowl in a carb)
is just merely a vessel full of liquid.
Again, fuel pressure and flow
If there was no separate ground wire for the T/S unit then yes the unit will
need to be grounded for the light to work. A 12V bulb in the unit may be too
dim to see especially if its flashing fast.
Jeff in Clermont, FL
53 3800 Chev
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole
I used POR15 products on the fuel tank. I followed the directions very
carefully and its been fine for the last 5 years. The last time I cut the
inline fuel filter open, it was clean. No rust and no sealer in it.
Jeff in Clermont, FL
53 3800 Chev
[Non-text portions of this message have been
Examining the spark plugs is the best way to read combustion conditions. The
tailpipe soot just isn't a good indicator. Its unlikely that your fuel pump
is providing any more than 5 psi in the first place. Lowering the fuel
pressure is only a remedy to help prevent the fuel pressure overriding the
Charlie, the original style bypass oil filter is a very fine filter as
opposed to most spin on styles which are designed for full flow filtering.
The filter media in the full flow spin on is more course since it must
handle the entire oil flow coming from the oil pump going to the engine. The
Luke, the small dead end holes in the old pushrod is designed to trap a
small amount of oil thereby helping lubrication. The aftermarket ones
probably just don't have one and it'll likely be just fine without it.
Jeff in Clermont, FL
53 3800 Chev
[Non-text portions of this message have been
. Evidently that rag came out and oil spilled from
the T down the back of the block and out the bell housing cover. I removed
the cover and found no evidence of anything unusual in that area. Hope to
crank the old girl up sometime next week!
Thx again
Ken
Jeff Pohlar [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
Ken, thats probably not a good sign of things to come. There is nothing back
there that should have allowed oil out of the crankcase while being tilted.
Best you could hope for is that there was some latent oil laying somewhere
and you disturbed it while tilting. Second best hopeful is that it ran
Sounds like a nice find Dennis. Distributors originally designed for the
race track had no real need for a load sensing vacuum advance since the
engine was under full load all the time anyway. Under those conditions,
centrifugal advance is all that is needed.
Unfortunately, engines perform better
Todays unilite distributor post reminded me about our recent high rpm
stovebolt discussion that borderlined an argument on the subject.
I've been overdue to stress to the group that I certainly wasn't
recommending unnecessarily running these old engines around at 3000+ rpms.
My viewpoint was
Steve, the Carter replacement on the 235 is the 2100S and apparently the
2101S. Not sure what the diff is between the two and also not sure if there
are others also. Keep in mind that there will be certain differences
depending on the year of the donor vehicle, whether it came off of a car or
Janice, the Rochester B warps due mostly from previous overtightening of the
air horn (top) of the carb to the bowl body. I'm sure the general design of
too few screws around the top and the endless hot/cold cycles inherent
during its life are of no help either. There are several carbs out there
Your 47 one ton AD will have the HO72 rear end and most likely has the 5.13
ratio. The only other ratio available for that rear axle is the 4.56 used in
some of the three quarter ton trucks and others thruout the run up until
1972. Finding a good used one (4.56 center chunk) is challenging and
Steve, very well put. I wanted to go into that but couldn't muster up the
brain power in the middle of the night. So, I'm glad you did.
The rear gears, tire size, vehicle weight (and wind resistance), and
horsepower are all an effort in compromise to get the best overall
performance for any
Hey Roy, I'm interested to hear how your towing experience goes with your
216. Just for comparison purposes, (IOW, I'm not bragging), I towed an
overbuilt gooseneck trailer that wieghs in at 5K by itself from Orlando to
Atlanta via interstate then back with a 3000 lb Ford Econoline van on it. My
Although I don't have a tachometer in the truck, rpm calculations with my
34 tall tires (stock 7.00-18) and the 5.13 rear gears come to 3040 rpm at
60 mph. Mine seems to cruise fine at that speed. I can make 65 mph as long
as there no headwind or ascent.
Jeff in Clermont, FL
53 3800 Chev
Charlie, it sounds like you are answering your own question whether or not
they are candidates for restoration.
Have you considered replacement with suppliers like Wheel Vintiques? They
may have exact replacements for your application. Rusted/pitted wheels will
never be 100 percent no matter how
Yeah Mark, my 53 dually has 12 x 2 inch front brakes with an adapter to
space the dually wheel out.
Jeff
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Steve, the large spacer/adapter bolts to the front wheel bearing hub only
and serves to space the dually style wheel out whereas a 3/4 or one ton with
single rear wheels does not use the spacer in the front position. In that
case, the wheel itself mounts directly to the bearing hub. The adapter is
Bill(s), thanks for the part number info. I didn't have it.
BTW, the drums I swapped to my 53 came from my 57 forward control chassis
with the alum Grumman van body.
I'll keep a search for them. If anybody happens to run across a new set (or
one), I'd sure appreciate a heads up on it.
Jeff in
Bill(s) and others, what are you using for reference to part numbers for the
one ton etc. trucks? Factory parts manuals, reprints, CD's?
BTW, a quick search for that part number turned up one NOS drum on
consignment with Collectors Auto Supply aka nosgm.com for $350.00.
Thankfully, I don't
Well, again its not absolutely conclusive but considering that your symptoms
appear to be caused by an air flow problem while the truck is still, I think
you are now on the right track. The original fan does not have much pitch to
begin with and I don't think that the cooling system could stand
Well Tom, the problem appears obvious. Hopefully its that simple. It appears
that air flow thru the rad is not sufficient while stopped. If that is so, then
setting a small shop fan or similar in front of the truck to increase air flow
thru the rad during the symptoms should verify the problem.
Tom, diagnosing cooling system symptoms can be difficult sometimes. Purchasing
or borrowing an infrared point and shoot thermometer can simplify the
diagnosis greatly. You can instantly check thermostat opening temp by shooting
the thermostat housing. Then you can easily check the radiators
Unfortunately, there is no definitive answer to the casting number location.
The numbers were placed in different spots throughout the stovebolt run. It
seems to me that the most common location is on the right side (passenger)
of the engine block down near the oil pan mounting rail. My 216's # is
Dalton, the first three digits of the GMC sixes identify the CID. You've got
a 302 on your hands.
Jeff in Clermont, FL
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Its likely that the rod has found its way thru the cylinder wall somewhere.
The bolt that you found is probably the pinch bolt that holds the pin in
the connecting rod.
Jeff
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Ken, that doesn't sound good. From your description of no undesirable
symptoms until the noise was heard, it sounds as if something internal came
loose and knocked a hole in a water jacket.
If that is the case and you stopped the engine almost immediately, the
coolant may not yet had a chance to
Don, I have to agree with Garys response. Even if you do get the wheels off,
you really haven't accomplished much.
I have had some success by leaving the wheels on and just removing the axle
and then backing out the hub bearing adjusting nuts (leaving the bearings
inside the hub to help keep
Mike, I don't know your cash situation but sending the unit to the wiper man
(Ficken Wiper Service) is money well spent for rebuilding your vacuum wiper
motor. Also, for the wiper motor to work properly, the engine must be
producing good vacuum and you really should have the dual action fuel pump
My info tells me that the 216 weighs in at a hefty 630 lbs. It doesn't
specify whether or not that is with or without the flywheel and/or
bellhousing. The 4 speed transmission aint light either. I'd say its around
150 lbs.
Jeff in Clermont, FL
53 3800 Chev
[Non-text portions of this message
widucl, check out the Napco site. There were a few Chevs (but mostly GMC)
converted to 4wd prior to 55. They were not factory 4x4's. Converted
afterwards by NAPCO. My understanding is that the half tons were not
converted until after the enclosed driveshaft was discontinued. I'm
certainly not the
Mark, did you try to explain to them that the flat nuts are OE?
Speaking of the flat style wheel nuts that come on the one ton
dually...does your truck (or anybody elses for that matter) use the
heavy nut with slits in each flat? 1/2 x 20 thread but require a 7/8
socket. The wheel nuts on my
From my notes, the 2100S and/or the 2101S Carter YF are the direct
replacements. You'd be wise to double check me on this because I didn't put
down how or where I got that info but I'm pretty sure about it. I'm not
clear what the differences between the two are. Maybe someone else on the
list can
Might check with NPD. National Parts Depot. http://www.npdlink.com/
Seems to me that we used to be able to see and access the personal email
addys when we replied to a post?
I haven't seen that in awhile. Did that change permanately?
Jeff in Clermont, FL
53 3800 Chev
[Non-text portions of
I completely agree with Bill. If the shoes are not close to the drum, the
excessive pedal travel is just merely pushing all the shoes thru thin air.
You won't get a firm pedal until ALL the shoes hit the drums.
In cases like this (if in fact the shoes are not properly adjusted), the
reason the
Try www.memphisequipment.com or Randy's at www.ringpinion.com . Randy's
doesn't show a set on the website but sometimes they have things in stock
that aren't shown. If nothing else, maybe either could steer you in the
right direction. Good luck in your search. I'm actually keeping my eyes open
Careful Larry, don't let out too many of our great Florida secrets and hot
spots. You know what I mean, what happens in Yeehaw, stays in Yeehaw. Here's
hoping your next Yeehaw summit doubles in size.
Jeff in Clermont, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC
Roy, I can't answer why there is a difference of 30 lbs between the two
trucks. It may have something to do with weight distrubition under the most
ideal conditions. IOW, if a payload is placed in the most ideal position on
the 3103 then it may be able to safely handle 30 more pounds than the 3104
Anybody out there able to look up crankshaft PN 3660473 and verify that it
is an early 235 Chev.
Thanks, Jeff
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Thanks Bill, and thanks especially for the casting number because that gives
me the ability to look up what I really want to know about that crankshaft
on eBay. I've been keeping my eyes out for an early splasher 235 crankshaft
for a long time now and heck, maybe I'll just buy me a brand new
I sounds to me like the choke is not actually closing. It is most likely not
spark related if adding fuel (ether) get the engine started.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just
I once carried two pallets of sod totaling slightly over 7000 lbs on my flat
bed 3800. I also had a boat comment since the truck steered like a large
boat. At about 40 mph, slight adjustments at the steering wheel seemed to
take two or three seconds to take effect, right after a noticeable wieght
Janice, technically, the difference is that the extra terminal on the three
termimal flasher is alternately flashing opposite of the other. One terminal
is always Batt + (switched usually), the two others are alternating
normally on and normally off. The feature can be utilized for whatever want.
to
look up a wiring diagram to jog my memory.
-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jeff Pohlar
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 12:02 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] turn signal flashers
I did similar to what Bill said on one of my special projects. Carquest had
universal hoses that came with molded 90 degree bends.
Jeff in Clermont, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no
Janice, the engine casting number is not always in the same place on all of
the stovebolts. Most are on the right side (pass side) under some gunk
somewhere. It is a raised number that is actually cast into the block as
opposed to being stamped into the block like the engine serial number on the
Shoot Mike, don't apologize for being picky. I still get a kick when I see
some insignificant finicky pin still in place in someone's 50 year old
engine compartment (or wherever). For some stupid reason, it amazes me to
think that after numerous engine/transmission changes and fifty different
Nate, if unplugging the 'puter doesn't work for you, take that bugger out
into the shop and hook it up to the old buzz box. Don't be scared, turn it
up to about 140. Maybe that'll jump start it. If it still doesn't work, at
least then you'll know why and you'll feel really good afterwards.
Jeff
Ken, I agree with Bill that sometimes there is an odd bleeding incident that
defies a logical explanation but on the other hand it ain't rocket science
either. I also agree that slow constant pressure while bleeding is
preferable to any rapid hard strokes.
I'm thinking that air is entering your
Well kinda. The 153 cid inline 4 had the same bore as the 283 but the stroke of
a 327. They all shared the same bearings and so forth.
The similar 151 cid inline 4 built later on shared the same bore and stroke as
Chevys 302 race ready Camaro Z28 engine.
However, Pontiac cut a 389 V-8 in half
I can't seem to remember who makes one off emer brake cables. Didn't we
discuss this topic? Anybody got any suggestions on who to contact?
Jeff in Clermont, FL
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Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no
Jerry, I'd could be more help if you could supply the engine casting number.
Usually also on the right side of the engine (but not in all cases). Raised
numbers cast into the block. Usually starts with a 38 or 37 depending on
what it is. We are talking about a stovebolt six, correct?
Jeff
Roy, using a cheater won't change the accurancy. Just don't use that torque
wrench to take the nuts off, with or without a cheater. Gary is right, pull
out a torch and cut them. They are not designed to be reused anyway. They
are made out of soft material and often break and/or the threads won't
Ha Ha Ha, I used to know but apparently I have forgotten. I can't seem to
fix my own generatin' problems.
One quick way is to full field the gen by taking the regulator out of the
system. Disconnect the small field wire at the gen. Ground the field
terminal of the gen with a jumper wire and run
with you. Let me know if it floats. . .
Janice
Jeff Pohlar [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Motoring the generator is the first thing Steve the rebuilder does when I
bring the gen back to him. The gen does motor on the bench but when you
spin
it up fully fielded it only produces about 3 to 4 amps
John, if you don't feel like running a wire thru a newly drilled hole maybe
you could keep a good looking installation by still drilling a hole thru the
receptacle but installing a grounding stud or bolt in the hole instead.
Ground the bulb to the stud on the inside of the receptacle and then run
Although I don't have any real proof, I agree with Steve Leys theory ( I guess
its your theory) that the filtration is probably least when the paper filter is
new.
On the fuel filtration side, I just serviced a diesel tractor that had symptons
of running out of fuel. I pulled the primary fuel
Ferguson tractor [ Delco] failed 2 rebuilt generators in 3 years
[made in Brazil] , before I changed the system.
Good luck
Lee
Prosser WA
- Original Message -
From: Jeff Pohlar
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 4:32 AM
Subject: *Possible SPAM* RE
Motoring the generator is the first thing Steve the rebuilder does when I
bring the gen back to him. The gen does motor on the bench but when you spin
it up fully fielded it only produces about 3 to 4 amps of current. There is
obviously something wrong inside the generator itself. Some
I thought about that too but considering that apparently all new components
are off shore imports, its likely I'll get the same thing I've got here. My
gen rebuilder is no newbie to this business. He's a well established
rebuilder in this area and has been around since when this landscape was
Hey Steve and Nate and all others who have been following the 6V saga. I
consider myself pretty intellegent about these charging matters with generators
and regulators and such. The local gen/alt/starter rebuilder that I routinely
use in my ag/construction equipment repair business as well as
Hey Deve, glad to see you still around. I see Ken beat me to it.
My 216 has one metal tab spot welded to the vertical carb linkage rod like
you describe. Another tab is secured to the oil pan rail with one of the oil
pan screws. Just a flat slightly curved metal tab mounted almost directly
Full fielding the gen on the truck isolates the regulator out of the system.
Also, the generator fails to charge on the test bench, again. No regulator
or truck involved in that test.
Jeff
-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
This particular engine has last seen duty pumping irrigation water in a
tangerine grove here in Central Florida. It appears to be a purpose built
power unit by IH. It is fitted with a propane only carburetor which is
common down here on the few non-diesel power units. It is still located here
in
The block casting number is not located in any one particular place on all
these stovebolts. Its been my experience so far though that the number is
always located on the sides of the block. Sometimes large and sometimes
smaller digits. It has a bad habit of collecting grunge making it hard to
see
Just in case anybody has any interest, a recent trip to the local Tractor
Supply Co. netted me a really nice model truck they have up for sale. It is
a nicely detailed 53 3800 deluxe cab dually tow truck. It has a period
correct winch and boom style wrecker body. Die cast metal with opening doors
According to my info, the 3836850 head casting number comes back to both the
235 and 261 from the late fifties to the early sixties.
I'll need the blocks casting number to id it. It will appear similar to the
heads casting number. Send it in and I'll look it up too.
The blocks casting date code
Alan, you've pretty much got the right idea concerning the proceedure but
just remember a couple of details that will throw the final results off.
First, the timing ball is already at 5 BTDC so that must be taken into
account. The proceedure is generally done with the light pointing at a TDC
or 0
Steve, I don't see a problem with playing around with timing plate limiters
and so forth. You may ease the pain of the difficult to get at distributor
clamp by leaving it tight and loosening the bolt at the distributor hold
down (aka octane selector). If you look closely at the OS, you will see
I haven't seen one of these cabs yet, but I think it is good for the hobby
to have the extra option of just replacing the entire cab as a unit.
Hopefully they are of good quality. Its no secret that its conceivable to
put $4000 or more into body work into a partially damaged/rusted cab just to
I'm not an expert on every combination of PTO's and implements out there but
if yours is powering a winch then chances are that you will have a
reversible PTO with three positions. Forward/Neutral/Reverse. In neutral the
PTO shaft should not turn.
This way you can reel the cable in, out, and/or
Sure its hard to beat the SBC performance dollar for dollar with other
brands but probably not the way these folks at Southern are pulling this
off. They are obviously purchasing and installing the entire drivetrain
including the transmission and electronics into this vehicle. They are
selling the
Jonas, I've personally sleeved many engines in my past experience in machine
shop work. It is usually reserved for cases where it it more expensive to
find another engine than it is to repair the one you have. ie; truck and
industrial engines, diesels, and engines that are difficult and expensive
I just looked on my 53 3800 and it has the three rivet overload brackets. I
forget what the question/subject was now. You needed a photo of them, right?
Jeff in Clermont, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email
I'm not sure I completely understand the original problem with the heat
riser, as long as the riser valve was not rusted stuck in one position or
another and moved freely, it will default to the open position as if the
engine was up to operating temp.
Properly operation for the riser is to be
Steve, did you get that thing figured out? If the two bolts seem to be
bottomed out then by all means take them out and put shorter ones in there
if thats what it takes. Put some sealer around the threads of the bolts too.
Let us know how it turns out please.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this
Luckily mine weren't rusted too bad when I repaired my seat. I had some
welding to do on some broken wire rims and such and then I just painted the
entire seat base and back with some rustoleum type paints. I shoved a fist
sized piece of foam down inside each spring to help keep it quiet and offer
Eric, I'm glad to hear that you are planning some action to correct that
situation. I will concede that as is it will probably work. However,
speaking from a lot of front end suspension and steering experience, I can
pretty much guarantee that it is not as durable as it was intended to be. I
could
I came in late on this conversation because I was bouncing earlier and
didn't realize it right away. I quess I thought it was just really quiet out
there.
Did anybody else share my experience where the speedo decal did not fit well
over the raised bump near the center of the face (AD speedo)? I
Eric, I read the installation instructions from CPP and also see your pics.
I understand the problem but don't see why it was considered acceptable as
is.
I also studied your measurements from the Feb. post and see that they are
apparently relying on the small interference at the large end to
Eric, a real close inspection of the bores is necessary here to determine
exactly why they are not fitting the taper of the new tie rods. Comparison
of the old and new tie rod studs also. Its common for a tie rod nut to
become loose and be run loose for a long enough period that the stud
severely
Warren, all main cap bolts are to be retorqued to 100-110 ft lbs. Replacing
the rear main seal can be done in frame. It will be tedious and dirty so
bring your patience. Remember, the crankshaft will drop down a little by
loosening all the main caps but the transmission input shaft will prevent
Durwood, I look around all over the place but these wheels haven't been used
on anything for a long time. One exception that I have seen are some of the
older (late 70's or early 80's) UPS trucks around here are still running
them. I talked to the supervisor at their local shop and he said there's
Casey, are you saying you have a set available? If so, please email me off
list.
I hope NC means North Carolina and not Northern California!
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Jeff in Clermont, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an
Some may remember that I acquired a 57 Chev step van a couple of years ago.
Well, since the county got on to me about it sitting here derelict I had no
choice but to get it running and moving on its on power to satisfy the local
ordinances. Luckily, its not necessary for it to be tagged and
Yeah, its all aluminum. It is/was painted two tone and the paint is
literally falling off the alum. Otherwise, in good general condition. 235
w/3 speed on tree, 19.5 eight lug SRW, 10,000 lb GVW. I really need help
finding one more of those 19.5 single rear wheel style wheels. They are a
bit rare.
I don't know for sure which holes you are talking about exactly but the
trans fill hole will be a pipe plug approx 1/3 up from the bottom of the
trans.
-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Morgan
Sent: Saturday, September 16,
That plug is a commonly used expandable rubber plug. The stud w/nut in the
center expands the rubber when tightened. As previously mentioned, the
threads were probably damaged or hopefully somebody just lost the original
plug.
The plugs are readily available in an assortment of sizes at hdwr
To add to what Bill has said, make sure what engine you have before getting
in to it. The casting number and date code cast into the block along the oil
pan gasket rail near the starter will tell you exactly what year and
displacement engine you have (once its decoded). The engine serial number
I agree with everyone so far. Times a wastin'. Got it on there yet?
Jeff in Clermont, FL
53 3800 Chev
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