Robert,
I stacked them as they were pictured and described. The thinner one with
slots running crossways on the bottom, the thicker one with the notches
around the hole in the center on the top.
Roy
Robert Westmoreland rl_westmorel...@yahoo.com wrote:
Hi Roy,
Thanks for your
Tom,
I am fairly ignorant about rims and wheels so i don't know if a bias ply
tire can be mounted on a rim meant for radial tires. However, I have 16 ,8
lug, non-split rims on my '51 3600 that look real close to original. I am
running Diamondback wide white wall radials. I mounted clips
I have a 216 in my truck and had it professionally rebuilt a few years ago.
Among other things, the shop put aluminum pistons in it, balanced it, put in
modern valve seals etc. Just for grins, I just did a compression test on all
the cylinders. They are all around 125 PSI. The fact they are all
I believe what you are talking about is stuff called Black shot. It is just
ground up slag and is very cheap as it is a byproduct. It comes in various
grits. I get it from a place near me in an industrial park. It costs like $4.00
for a 50 lb bag.
Roy
'51 3600
The Sleepy Dragon
Mike
Bill, you just made a large number of us very, very happy. Thanks!!!
Roy
corval...@peoplepc.com wrote:
This may be of use. Bill in Oregon
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_54chevyparts/08/473.HTM
_
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
I need to understand how fast idle works. Here is my issue. I hav a dual carb
set up and had to replace one. I used one that I rebuilt. Everything works very
weel except fast idle. When I am driving the truck and come to a stop, it is in
fast idle and I have to tap the accelerator to kick it
The engine is a 216. The carbs are Carter 964S's. there is a spring that winds
around the choke shaft that I think provides a counterbalance kinda like a
window sash weight. I believe that choking is only required at start up and if
you get a rich enough mix with one it should work well and my
I did tighten the spring a little but the real fix was to eliminate the binding
in the linkages.
Roy
Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com wrote:
Are you saying that you tightened down the spring or took the spring off and
re-installed it tighter?
On Sep 8, 2012, at 10:51 AM, Roy
Nate...not Pertronix. I had a Pertronix but went all the way up to HEI. Gaps
are at .70. I started to use your advance till it pings but never got there. I
stopped at 10 BTDC basically afraid to go any farther. However, it looks like
Bob is at 20 - the original 5 or 6 (BB) plus 15.
Roy
Oops, I meant Dennis. I got my Bills and Bobs and Dennis' mixed up.
Roy
Nate vwna...@yahoo.com wrote:
The timing remains the same , ball on pointer @ idle speed of 700 RPM os less
, check to insure there is NO vacuum signal to the dist. @ idle before you
adjust it .
Don't forget
I put Tom Langdon's HEI ignition on my 216 and it runs very well. However, I am
just curious if anyone else has done the same and if you have, what do you have
your timing set at? Mine is 10 degrees BTDC.
Thanks,
Roy
'51 3600
The Sleepy Dragon
Ole Chevy
Actually...let me take my statement back.. Different situation. The antique
plates in Virginia are huge. Mine was partially covered so I turned the
brackets upside down and the bumper covered even more of the plate. THAT is
what looked dumb. I think Charlie has it right.
Roy
Hanlon
There may be easier ways to do this but what you have to know is that E=IR
where E is volts, I is current, and R is resistance. Assuming your motor is a
six volt unit you should be able to measure the resistance from the hot side
wire to the case. That will give you your R value. You already
Mike,
Someone may have a different idea but there is no indication of a shroud.
I suspect it was added either by the dealer or the PO. It is also possible it
had a 235 engine as that was an option on the 3/4 tons. I have the factory spec
manual and I'll double check for you but I believe
Nate, Is there any way to tell if the starter is 6 or 12 volt by looking at it?
I imagine it has a different number of teeth on the gear. I sent Mike a starter
out of a truck that I know had a six volt battery in it and I know Mike's truck
is pure stock. If I sent him a 12 volt starter I would
The running boards were, indeed, painted black. What sheen I don't know. I put
black vortex on mine cause it looks good and stands up much better than paint.
The spare tire on a Chevy goes on the left. On a GMC it was on the right. I
think it was like '52 or '53 that side mount spares became an
I would love to hear that it is true but I spent many hours researching rear
end information for the 3/4 ton and, unfortunately, my research says he is
wrong. What you are looking for is the differential carrier out of a '67 to '72
3/4 ton chassis used primarily under vans. It is a 4:10 ratio
JC Whitney has another type that is a gauge. I just bought one but haven't yet
used it. However, it does look easier tyo use and you don't have to level it
each time. Nate just sent out some basic instructions for setting the carbies
up. I used this procedure with no gauge and was pleased with
I just checked the assembly manual and it looks straightforward. There are two
holes in the top of the frame and one through the side. That is where an RPO
bracket was installed. The bracket essentially provides a threaded stud to
mount the shock on and its about even with the top of the frame.
The bracket is attached to the underside of the frame lip. It was riveted
through the top but bolted to the side. the stud is seperate. picture this in
your mind - a diamond bent in the middle to 90 dgrees. A bolt throgh the botton
point that attaches to the frame. A stud coming out the end of
Thanks, Nate, and all the others that responded. Got 'er out. Once you guys
took the fear of screwing things up out of the picture, it actually came out
quite easily. Coupla raps on each end and I sorta rocked it out. Some of this
is pretty basic to you old mechanics but its magic to us old
You might want to take a hard look at your distributer down deep. You say no
spark to the wires and no oil up top. The oil pump and distributor are linked.
I think Nate suggested you make sure the rotor is turning, that would be key.
It it isn't, no spark and no oil pressure.
Roy
-
Anybody got a tip for removing these darn things? I had one come right out with
a quick pull from a pair of vise grips. I have another thats killing me. PB
Blaster'd it to death, put heat on the shaft and an ice cube on the key. I have
pulled banged and cursed..nothing works. In case you aren't
Geez...261's in California...261's in Canada and here I am in Virginia
Roy
- Original Message -
From: vwnate1
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 5:59 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 261...differences
Just so .
As there's a whole
I am still trying to determine how to tell whether any of the generators I have
are 12V. However, in my research I have found that there is a lot of unknowns
regarding generators. I thought maybe if those of you running generators,
either 6 or 12 volts, sent me the model number and its
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.commailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of rmarks10
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 11:42 AM
To:
old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.commailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com; Old
Chevy/GMC Truck
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Generators - an idea
I am
I have four...one is 12V, I think. No markings, no part numbers, no nuthin'. Is
there a way to tell? I thought the 12V ones were stamped 12V someplace on the
case.
Thanks,
Roy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email
You have already gotten some good advice from a few other folks so I won't
repeat their answers. On the rust situation I would highly recomend Eastwood's
rust encapsulator. There has been an ongoing debate between that and POR-15. I
have used both and still recommend the rust encapsulator. I
I just broke my third cheapo repop arm rest...anybody got a pair of original
ones they would part with?
Thanks,
Roy
1951 3600
The Sleepy Dragon
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body,
, or perhaps making the whole armrest
out of Oak.
rmarks10 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just broke my third cheapo
repop arm rest...anybody got a pair of original ones they would part
with?
Thanks,
Roy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC
'fraid I can't help ypu there, Jon. I know a lot about AD trucks but nothing at
all about TFs.
Roy
- Original Message -
From: Jon Hose
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 11:33 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3/4 Ton Rear End Replacement
Being a 3/4 ton guy myself I can tell you that just the punkin is all you need.
I found a 4.11 punkin to put in my old truck and am scouring the country for a
3.72. The punkin is also known as a differential carrier. Its the big piece
that bolts between the drive shaft and the rear axle. The
In my search for a 3.72 differential from a 67 to 72 van I keep looking for a
1970 G30 van. Hoever, most of the sites only show a G10 or G20. I have seen a
P30 and a K30 van listed but no G30. Does anyone know for sure what the proper
nomenclature for a 1967 to 1972 Chevy van on a 3/4 ton
I am looking for a 261 engine and/or a 3.72 punkin out of a 67 to 72 G30 van.
Sumguy has a 261 in Oregon but shipping alone is $550. I know both are scarce
and I am dreaming here but thought I would at least ask. I am in Virginia and
could drive some distance. I would consider most any options.
: rmarks10 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 8:42 pm
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] New Oils
I also read that Shell Rotella for Diesel engines contains the ZDDP and is
readily available in 15W-40. That is what I am running in my 216. I read about
- Original Message -
From: rmarks10
To: Old Chevy/GMC Truck;old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 10/5/2007 6:04:28 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] interesting facts and a question
I was digging through a few of the factory spec manuals I have for some
horsepower information
I also read that Shell Rotella for Diesel engines contains the ZDDP and is
readily available in 15W-40. That is what I am running in my 216. I read about
this issue in Vintage Truck magazine. I was mildly concerned about going to
something heavier than 10W-30 but but being in Virginia, I
I was digging through a few of the factory spec manuals I have for some
horsepower information and was surprised by some of the things I saw. The 1948
specs say that the 3000 and 4000 series trucks with a 216 CID engine developed
90 HP at 3300 RPM. Then it says that the 5000 series with a 235
Is there a trick to pulling this thing off? I know they are pressed on faily
tight but is there a key or somthing? The shop manual simply says attach J
tool and remove. I have a 6 gear puller that I cranked down until the veins
in my neck were visible and nothing happened.
Roy
[Non-text
I used the tool that seems to work best for me on stuff like this. It's a piece
of plastic about 2 X 3.75. Slid that sucker right off.
Seriously, I was trying to get it off to take it to my machinist buddy. I just
took the block with the shaft still in it to him after I beat, hammerred,
soaked,
Friendly Local Auto Parts Store = FLAPS
Roy
- Original Message -
From: Bill
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:39 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Harmonic balancer
I gotta ask; what does FLAPS stand for. ...bill
I think I have seen some stuff on this before but can't find it. The Shop
manual says to disconnect pitman arm and adjust for 1 to 1.5 lbs tangential
pull on the wheel to maintain motion near the ends of ravel. Then it says to
adjust lash adjuster for no play then check for 2 to 2.5 max
Nate,
This all came about because I rebuilt the steering box and am trying to
get it right. I filled the box with STP oil treatment as I thought I saw that
as a recommendation in an earlier post. Am I Ok with that or should I get it
out of there and put 90W in?
Second, some of your
I call my truck the Sleepy Dragon because of its green and black color scheme
and the fact that it it is so slow it can't get out of its own way. I thought
it would be cute to have a logo associated with it. My idea is to have a
drawing of a sleeping cartoonish dragon as sort of a mascot for my
Blues or news??? Nate, say it isn't so! The only thing that gets played in my
truck is Bluegrass and Country - pre 1980.
Roy
- Original Message -
From: vwnate1
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 10:22 AM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Comfy
Kevin,
Its clear that you have headlight wiring mixed up with parking light
wiring. Probably right at the terminal block on the inner fender. as that is
where these wires come together. I would trace these wires back from there. You
might try leaving the wires from the firewall attached
... in Whiteville, NC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message -
From: rmarks10
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] The Great Cab Support Adventure
Tom..you shouldn't need to enlarge the holes...just adjust
Tom..you shouldn't need to enlarge the holes...just adjust the pedals. Each
pedal is held to the arm by a single bolt. Loosen the bolt, reset the pedal
then retighten the bolt. It is a WHOLE lot easier to do with the fender off but
can be done from underneath. Ask me how I know.
Roy
-
Ah yes..after looking a second time, the lower picture tells you about the
spring I was referring to but doesn't show it in the pic. I didn't think I
could be THAT wrong about something.
Roy
- Original Message -
From: vwnate1
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday,
What is it for? I don't have one but know there was one. The assembly manual
shows the 54 wheel so that is no help. What I am talking about is the spring
that goes under the steering wheel. I can't imagine what it is there for. it
sits on top of a bushing that isn't going anywhere and under a
: Thursday, September 13, 2007 5:20 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Steering shaft spring
Parts book picture of steering wheel spring. ...bill
http://www.97330.com/Chevy_pg202.html
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, rmarks10 [EMAIL
I don't know how many times I have to get burned before I learn to stay with
old original. I replaced my re-pop fuel pump putting out 6 to 7 PSI with a
rebuilt original thats putting out 3.5. The difference in the way the engine
runs was obvious. I thought it ran well before but it positively
Good stuff. I am using an entirely different process and have had decent
results. I used a semi-transparent deck stain then 24 hours later put three
coats of spar urethane on it. I did that a few years ago but wasn't smart
enough to use the spar urethane. The bed held up fairly well. I am
When you try to tighten down the Champions, the socket is pushed off the nut
by the shoulders of the side cover on a 216 engine. You can't get them tight
enough...and there are probably other reasons even if you took the side cover
off, put the plugs in, then put the side cover back on.
Roy
Thanks, for straightening me out on the pressure after the split, Jeff. After
re-thinking it, I agree...so long as both needle valves are closed. On the
pressure not affecting the mixture, I agree if all is well. However, based on a
friends experience with the Edelbrock folks and his
I went out and bought a fuel pressure gauge and a fuel pressure regulator. The
first thing I did was to put the gauge inline to see what I had. Results were 6
- 7 PSI in the line before it splits to the dual carbs. Next, I took the gauge
out and put the regulator in its place. I set the
Ok..I got past the dumb s**t factor and turned the regulator around so that the
in and the out were properly positioned. However, at the same time, I put
my gauge in one of the carb branches. With the regulator set at 5.5, I got a
tad more than 2 PSI to that carb which is close to what I
Welp...I didn't have the regulator in backwards...its defective. Doesn't work
either way. In correctly it allows just a little fuel through. Got another on
its way. The whole day shot trying to make something thats busted work. Ah
well...guess thats better than busting something that did work.
You will get lots of replies to this one. You do need a resistor. Actually
you need a voltage regulator which is the more expensive one Carter sells. I
could give you a lengthy and detailed explanation as to why if you like.
Roy
- Original Message -
From: dave austin
To:
Tom, there are two bolts in the front that go down though the floor. In the
rear, there are shackles. The shackles do have an adjustment but I don't think
you need to worry too much about them. When properly adjusted there is about
3/4 between the cab and the frame. The front mounts are
Wel..tomorrow when the performance shop opens, I plan to get a gauge and a
pressure reducer...just to see. Nate, I like your idea better than the
regulator. I think what I am going to do is this...first, gonna check current
pressure - I don't have any idea what the pressure is right now.
That makes a lot of sense, Jeff. I had reservations in that I assumed that
Chevy would have designed things to work together. I rebuilt both carbs and if
I did a good job they should work and they do seem to. I will have to pull a
plug just to see. As far as setting the carbs up, my original,
It woula appear that if the cab has slipped down, you should have a pretty good
sized gap under the shaft. That should tell you something. If nate is right and
somewhere along the way the front mounts wee removed or dissoved you will need
to replace the. However, there are supposed to be shims
Kurt..best place for rubber is Steele Rubber. They have everything you need,
quality made in the US. You can get stainless kits from some of the vendors.
try www.classicparts.com.
Roy
- Original Message -
From: K Ohlgren [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com; [EMAIL
Thanks, Nate. I plan to do just a bit more than you reccomend but I have
realized from your input and others that I really don't want to do the 1000
point thing. My 3/4 ton painted Forrester Green with black fenders and green
interior gets a lot of attention. (You may have seen it in the
I am trying to build a show truck...a complete and total restoration. However,
I am being challenged as you might imagine. Fortunately, my driver is running
fine, looking good, and I love it. In short, I need to know what judges look
for. I have never had anything judged so I have no clue. For
can't wait until next weekend
if you want to keep them in pristene condition.
Just my Thoughts,
Walt
In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, rmarks10 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I am trying to build a show truck...a complete and total
restoration. However, I am being challenged as you
I know 261's are hard to find but what were they originally in? I think I would
like to try to find one. Not sure if I will put it in my truck but would like
to have the option.
Thanks,
Roy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe,
I am running dual Carters on my 216. The mileage improved quite a bit when I
put the first one on and even more when I added the second. One of these days I
am going to send them both off to be rebuilt professionally. Anyone have a
recommendation as to who I should get to do it? Both were in
it would be nice to update your photo
folder with a pic of it if you would.
rmarks10 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well, I got it, installed it and it
appears to work jes' fine. I haven't towed anything of significance yet but
will be pulling an empty Texas Bragg CCH trailer to Roanoke (240 miles
Glad to hear that Jeff. I have always tried to stay under 3000 but always
believed it would sustain it ok. Someday I may take her up a bit higher...maybe
3500, and see how she sounds there.
Roy
- Original Message -
From: Jeff Pohlar
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent:
I periodically just page through the online catalogs of the major vendors to
see whats new. Today, I found that Chevs of the 40s is now carrying the
handcrank bracket I have been going nuts trying to get fabricated. The lady who
has been fabricating mine says she will have it to me within a
I would like to put the dual chamber, boosted master cylinder on my truck that
Chevy Duty has for a drum, drum set up. My conern, though is that my truck is a
3/4 ton and the master cylinder has a tad larger bore than the 1/2 tons. Being
as the modern set up is designed for a 1/2 ton, will I be
.
They are the ones that know and work with everyday.
Good Luck.
BE SAFE...
Make your own Decisions.
Just my Thoughts,
Walt
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, rmarks10 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I would like to put the dual chamber, boosted master cylinder on my
truck
May sound wierd but check your exhaust system. I had an old F***D that would
run at idle all day long but when I tried to drive it it would overheat. Turned
out to be a a big dent in the exhaust pipe where I had apparently hit something.
Roy
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL
I see this over and over and am gonna fix it for us all but first I need some
help. First, where is the casting number? I know where the S/N is but have
forgotten where the casting number is. Second, I have used every website and
manual to decipher this Serial Number and come up empty. Most
I have learned that the dealers somehow found hitches to put on these old
Advanced Design trucks. Anybody got one that would fit on a 3/4 ton or know
where I could get one? My internet search can't find anything prior to '55.
Thanks,
Roy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I have discovered that there were trailer hitches that the dealers got from
some place to put on these old Advance Design trucks. Anybody got one or know
where I could get one?
Thanks,
Roy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe,
I have discovered that there were trailer hitches that the dealers got from
some place to put on these old Advance Design trucks. Anybody got one or know
where I could get one?
Thanks,
Roy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe,
I had mine redone by North Hollywood speedometer. www.nhspeddometer.com. I
don't remember how much but they did a super job.
Roy
- Original Message -
From: Eric Kramer
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2007 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck]
Thanks for all the replies, folks. It appears that towing with my '51 3/4 ton
without a trailer is probably not a good plan. However, it appears that towing
with a trailer should be OK. if I am careful. I am looking at a trailer with
electric brakes so that should help with that part. I
Anybody have any thoughts about using my '51 3/4 ton truck with a 216 and a
4:11 rear to tow my '51 1/2 ton? Anybody put a hitch on one of these trucks?
Any issues, tips, tricks? Will my bumper interfere?
Thanks,
Roy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC
I guess I should have mentioned I had intended to put the 1/2 ton on a trailer
and tow the trailer. The braking thing concerns me a little as my braking
distance already is substantial. Although there are brakes on the trailer so
that should help. Also, if I hafta stay under 50 MPH then it
Thanks, Jeff. This was helpful.
Roy
- Original Message -
From: Jeff Pohlar
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 12:14 AM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Weights and measures
Roy, I can't answer why there is a difference of 30 lbs between the
Nate, in an earlier post you mentioned using old yardsticks to adjust toe in.
Can you give us a description of the process? I have been messing with it and
think I have it right but wouldn't mind double checking.
Roy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC
I was delighted to find a vendor that had the axle bumpers that go under the
humps. However, the metal they used is 12 gauge instead of the original 11
gauge. Now why would they have done that? I paid $13.50 each for the bumpers
and would have had no problem paying a bit more to have them
, April 07, 2007 7:05 AM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Ya have to wonder...
Maybe they are misinformed about the correct gauge?
--- rmarks10 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I was delighted to find a vendor that had the axle
bumpers that go under the humps. However, the metal
they used is 12
I concur on the epoxy primer. GREAT stuff, On the finish, I messed with both
the single stage acrylic enamel and the two stage base coat clear coat. In fact
my truck is acrylic Forrester Green with base coat clear coat black fenders. My
experience is this. The end result is agruable. The gloss
This is a two parter. First, on my '51 frame there are no brackets on the
outside of the frame for the axle bumpers as shown in the factory assembly
manual. However, there ARE small brackets of some sort under the frame up in
thehumps. Was a change somewhere along the way? That is part one.
substitute when trying to get the right
restoration look without having to plate
(http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=112itemType=PRODUCT).
Allen
'50 3100
'48 COE
-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of rmarks10
Sent
Jeff is right about the two prongs being opposite. I believe the third prong
was used for the flasher indicator on the dash on vehicles that had them.
Roy.
- Original Message -
From: jbelltalk
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 7:59 PM
I wonder why everyone looks for J hooks for them. Neither the 1/2 ton nor the
3/4 ton trucks from 47 to 54 used them. At least not according to the assembly
manual or parts list. The 1/2 tons used a T bolt and the 3/4 tons used an eye
bolt.
I wonder why Chevy went from the slide out type to
I am just starting the process of restoring a '51 deluxe half ton to factory
original. To chronical the effort, I have begun a photo blog that contains some
narrative and lots of pics. If you are interested, check it out. It is at
www.roystrucks.photosite.com. The best way to view it is to
I've seen the stuff and have been considering it. The only thing that concerned
me is that when I read the label it says that even a few drops of water will
dramatically reduce its effectiveness. Here on the coast of Virginia,
everything is wet. Condensation is a big problem.
Roy
-
I got my sway bar from Chev's of the '40's and put it on my 3/4 ton. Had to do
a little modification but O agree with Charlie. The difference in handling is
remarkable.
Roy
- Original Message -
From: charles olson
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January
I am thoroughly fed up trying to use the new biodegradeable degeasers for
cleaning parts. Gunk works pretty good but I can only find it in spray cans.
What do you guys use in your parts cleaners? Sumguy mentioned varsol but says
you gotta cut it with something and I am also concerned about
I have a fresh air heater in my truck but I don't have the little clamp that
holds the defroster cable to it. I have searched high and low for one. Yeah, I
could make do but I am a perfectionist. Anybody got one they would part with?
Roy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I saw it, thought I saved it but didn't. Where is the gear ratio stamped on the
rear end? I've looked all over the ring gear and every place else I could think
of. I have counted 41 teeth in the ring gear but can'y get a good count on the
pinion.
Roy
[Non-text portions of this message have
: rmarks10
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 12:14 PM
Subject: *Possible SPAM* [old-chevy-truck] Gear ratio - repeat question
I saw it, thought I saved it but didn't. Where is the gear ratio stamped on
the rear end? I've looked all over the ring gear
Aster careful investigation I have learned that the backing plates on the 53's
are two inches closer together to accomodate the Bendix brakes. The backing
plate mounts are integral to the rear axle so my only options are tp a) swap
the axle or b) return to the Hucks. An option c would be to
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