I have one of these already, and am looking for a second -- new or used.
Pete
Arlington, VA
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Joel, what about the 48/36/26 Sugino XD600 triple? It comes in a 165mm length
and it’s what Rivendell sold before developing the Silver cranks.
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I think it'd look like a Rosco Bubbe Road, except 650b in the smaller sizes
because it won't have been designed around leftover SimpleOne forks.
On Monday, September 23, 2019 at 9:11:29 AM UTC-4, Timothy Hurley wrote:
>
> “Mix of Roadinni and Clem” sounds very interesting. What do you all think
Yes, I think insta-ready all-road bikes have been *en vogue* for several
years, and a 28mm-tired bike called "Roadini" isn't that, even if
UltraRomance rides one.
On Wednesday, September 18, 2019 at 11:31:57 PM UTC-4, John G. wrote:
>
> Yeah, I was disheartened to hear that the Roadini didn't
Cyclocross bike, with a Legolas/Quickbeam/Rosco Road geometry.
On Wednesday, September 11, 2019 at 8:18:23 PM UTC-4, John G. wrote:
>
> The September email update teases a new bike: the Charlie H Gallop.
> PREDICTIONS! GO!
>
> Mine: MIT lugged road-ish bike with Cantis. 650B even at the largest
I've been using OMs and Electro 35s for a long time and both are fine
cameras.
What really sets the OM-1 apart is that is it noticeably more compact than
similar vintage Nikons, but still has a large viewfinder that is just plain
nice to look through. It's way better than most DSLRs, and more
Continental DoubleFighter IIIs might fit the bill. I was looking for a tire
under $40 a few years ago and got a pair for $60. Riv is out of Continental
Race King Sports but those are lighter than the DoubleFighters and have a
knobbier tread.
Echoing others I also like the ThunderBurts and Big
Another benefit of the Altus cantis is that they will work with older forks
that have narrower post spacing. The Bridgestone RB-T, for example.
On Monday, April 15, 2019 at 3:21:58 PM UTC-4, Garth wrote:
>
>
> I too find that price in no guarantees anything more than the expenditure
> itself.
Erik,
If I understand you, what you want is a brake that will allow you to run
wider tires than you have now, and remove your wheels without deflating
your tires. Everyone has their favorite brake, but if it doesn't open up
far enough to do those things, it won't be your favorite brake,
Me too. Would love to see more pictures of that bike.
Pete
Arlington, VA
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Also went with a Stampede balance bike around age 3. The appeal to me was a
hand brake and fat tires. It needed about 30 minutes of tune up out of the
box. Got a Woom 3 for 5th birthday and was riding it within 10 minutes.
Every kid is different but I think balance bike with a hand brake was
When I bought my bronze R. Bubbe two years ago, I seriously considered the
red one, which is nearly identical except for a longer TT intended for
swept-back bars. I think I've only seen ONE picture of a built-up red R.
Bubbe. Anyone want to show theirs off?
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> On Sunday, November 11, 2018 at 8:41:33 AM UTC-5, Steven Sweedler wrote:
>>
>> Since the demise of Ibex and especially their fall sale, I have been
>> enjoying -33 as long as you like the color black, their long underwear
>> bottoms are excellent, cycled in them
Thanks for the suggestion, Will. The vest version of the liner jacket is
appealing to me. I would prefer a standup collar but as you point out, a neck
gaiter serves the purpose.
Pete
Arlington, VA
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Thanks all. It sounds like the 150 weight might be what I want.
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I'm looking for a half or quarter zip merino pullover and could use some recs,
especially with regard to weight/warmth.
For the past several winters daily commutes (15 miles round trip, most days the
temp is with 10 degrees of freezing) I've been wearing a very light poly-merino
blend
What a neat bike. Speaking of fixed gear, is that a fixed cog I see on the
non-driveside of the rear wheel?
Pete
Arlington, VA
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Nicely done Bill. With writing like this, pictures are unnecessary; they're
in my head.
Reading your report made me want to take my bronze Rosco Road on a long
ride. Do you think you'd notice much difference between your Roadini and
your blue Rosco Road on a ride like this, if both bikes were
David,
You might try a nighttime tour of the mall and monuments using capital bike
share. It will probably still be crisp and not near cold by Chicago standards.
Just start where ever is closest to your hotel and make a circle of the
reflecting pool. You'll see the following:
Lincoln
I'm no racer, but I've wanted to replace the downtube shifter controlling
my front derailleur with a bar-end because I lack the coordination to shift
crisply with my left hand. I like the downtube shifter for my RD just fine.
I think I've seen some Riv staff bikes set up opposite, with the
I really like the sackville trunksack small. It carries a lot more than I
would've thought, but it's hard to make it heavy, even full. I use mine to
carry life's doodads ... snacks, wallet, keys, phone, tools, hardware store
errands, camera, all that stuff at the same time. I pair it with a
middle position and a 28 in the granny/inside
> position; no outer (there's a guard there instead). But no problems
> shifting between the inner 2 rings with 10 speed chains.
>
> On Thu, Aug 30, 2018 at 8:11 AM, EasyRider > wrote:
>
>> Thanks everyone.
>>
>>
:
>
> IME, you might well be lucky and have no problem running 10 speeds with
> old cranks. I'm happily using a 10 speed chain with a 8-speed era Logic
> crank; no problems.
>
> Friction front shifting, btw.
>
> On Wed, Aug 29, 2018 at 7:58 AM, EasyRider > wrote:
>
>
Riv has said that these cranks aren't 10 speed compatible and others have said
it's because the xd2 spider spaces the rings a bit too wide for 10 speed setups
(either the narrower chain falls into the gap between rings or an indexed FD
doesn't push the chain sideways enough to make the shift,
I have an Ex Oficio boonie hat that is just ok. On re plus side, it's shaped a
little diff than a boonie to give more neck coverage, and it's very light,
unlike a surplus store boonie, which just traps heat. The downside is the
sizing is coarse and the brim is not really shapeable. I think here
Yep, I think that might be part of the problem. Nitto knows best so if they say
it's because the rack is getting overloaded, ok. But unlike the Marks and 32f
mini, the level of the m12 platform is not adjustable unless some part gets
bent. (Those other racks have fork brackets or p clamps for
I predict HIGH demand for such a rack.
I've used and broken the cheapo Sunlite front rack. Dunno if the design has
changed since, but the diving board was very cheap and broke suddenly. It was
not overloaded; I think it was actually empty when it failed. It didn't fall
forward onto the wheel,
Bill, you make a good point about Nitto's conservative weight ratings can make
it seem like other manufacturers racks, of similar design, are stronger, when
in reality they're designed for the same purpose and should probably be treated
as equals from safety perspective.
I use a different
I have an NFE and a Roscoe Road, which is not unlike the MIT Homer, I imagine.
I love them both and they feel quite different to me. The BB drop of the Riv is
very noticeable when I get underway and then the bike disappears under me. The
NFE doesn't toodle as well as the roscoe. It seems to
Paul, I think you're wise to borrow one first. These front seats tend to
work best with large frames/top tubes. If you are about my size (PBH ~79),
you may decide to wait for the Rosco Bebe or to get that trailer a little
sooner.
I can only speak to the iBert, but after installing one on my
Thanks everyone. The stumper is that I do line up my valves and tire labels to
better identify flats. It's just that the leak is incredibly slow And I just
can't find it via submersion to help direct my search of the tire for the
offending object. I do know that neither the originally punctured
Got a slow leak in a Big Ben yesterday (1st in ~4,000 miles on this tire) and
went about fixing it. Flats are rare for me so I take my time finding the
cause. I thought I had - a tiny wire on the inside of the tire, which I plucked
and then finished checking for any others. I used a new tube
I see thought behind Crust designs. A (relatively) low q-factor fat bike? An
aftermarket cargo fork for 1" threaded steerers? These are unique, interesting
products.
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Even if the bike isn't plus-tired if it's in the stepthru bubbe-Roadini price
range I'll be tempted.
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I missed the new rim hints! So I will stand by my original prediction of a plus
tired capable 27.5 MB-1ish bike with a high by riv standards BB and longish
chainstays.
And a suspension stem :)
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Good point about the rim availability. Just thinking about what would make for
a "dedicated" mtb on Riv's terms. Perhaps it will simply be a MIT Hunq with
longer chainstays. Isn't that a Clem, though? Maybe a threadless stem option,
like the Roadeo? Seems doubtful.
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I'm probably reading too much into one word, but did I hear Grant use the
phrase, "dedicated mountain bike"? it's intriguing to think of how such a bike
would differ from a Hunq or a Clem. Maybe clearance for 650b plus tires - which
aren't necessary or imho desirable for pavement riding --
Anything can make a bike go click but for me it's usually one thing: the bottom
bracket isn't snug enough. Grant mentioned this already and I concur.
Almost every bike I've owned this has popped up, and usually right after I've
installed the BB. I've even used a bit of teflon tape on really
My guess is a MIT 1x MB-1ish 27.5 plus Riv. A slightly higher bb. Grant has
said that if you need bigger than 2 inch tire to get a pugsley and a dozen
years the reader mentioned that bike favorably. Hard to imagine a Riv fatbike
though ... discs and all.
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René, I'm local and work downtown. I'd suggest you ride the length of the
national mall one morning (both sides), and around the Tidal Basin and East
Potomac Park another. An out and back trip to Chain Bridge might make a
good third trip if you have a little more time and bring your bike. Head
Your description of the similarities between the Quickbeam and Atlantis makes
me wonder if my Bubbe road is in the same neighborhood, as it was designed
around a SmpleOne fork and prob has stouter tubing than the Quickbeam. It's
Quickbeam genes were a major reason I bought it. It's not "lively"
The coral and amethyst smoke colors of these two bikes are great together!
Which one is Tubbs and which one is Crockett?
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This horror?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horror_vacui
On Tuesday, March 27, 2018 at 6:02:53 PM UTC-4, Reid Ewing wrote:
>
> With the rear wheel spacing seen in Grant's photo, looks like the Riv
> traditional wine cork fender spacer is not going to work. Horrors! What
> will we do?
>
> Reid
>
Is that common with tandems or cargo bikes?
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So, about these long chainstays ... I kinda like the kinda long ones on my
Bubbe road. They feel good. Somewhere on the Blug talks about how they make
smaller bikes ride like medium sized bikes.
Maybe one of the reasons they're getting longer is weight distribution --
because more and more
04
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I'm interested in this fork for my old Trek 950 and any future Riv that
might join the stable, but the Crust fork has a 220mm steerer tube, and my
Trek's headtube, like me, is pretty short. Are there "rules" for how long
is too long a steerer?
FWIW, I don't think I'd go to the trouble of
Thanks Tim. I'm using the cane creeks on a short reach soma highway 1 bar so
these tektros would prob work ok.
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dle of those two, but I've never measured.
>
> If we're talking about the hoods, I've added an extra wrap or two of bar
> tape underneath to beef 'em up a bit, so maybe try this with the Tiagras?
>
> Jeff Hagedorn
> Los Angeles, CA USA
>
> On Monday, March 12, 2018 at 5:58:27
My Tiagras are a bit too narrow, my Cane Creek SCR-5s are too wide. Is there an
in between I could try?
Pete
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Patrick, for me the benefit of the Neti pot is that it clears out my nasal
passage so excess "stuff" isn't slowly draining. It also seems to head off
stuffy ears. Generally, it makes me feel better. You'll want to use distilled
or boiled water and a saline solution or it will sting a bit and
I find using a Neti pot helps with ear nose and throat ailments. My sore
throats are usually related to post nasal drip and a saline rinse helps clear
me out. Absolutely essential for my seasonal allergies too, as it helps rinse
away pollen.
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Nicely done, I'd have set mine up the same way. Moustache bars are a
practical choice for a singlespeed. Looks like plenty of room for a frame
pump behind the seat tube? Be sure to post pictures with the bars wrapped.
On Tuesday, February 20, 2018 at 8:24:18 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
>
Great job, it looks fantastic.
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Agree that having multiple hand positions -- including an upright one -- is
the key to comfort across a range of riding conditions. That said -- higher
handlebars ARE more comfortable ... IF ones power output isn't very great,
or must be moderated to suit conditions like riding in stop and go
I just realized my "custom" is actually a stock 52cm cantilever Hilsen with
a custom color. Perhaps a Pear Green, then.
On Wednesday, February 7, 2018 at 12:36:24 PM UTC-5, EasyRider wrote:
>
> Same here, 650b Roadeo with clearance for 38 with fenders. I'm 5'7" and
>
Same here, 650b Roadeo with clearance for 38 with fenders. I'm 5'7" and have a
couple 700c bikes, (RB-T and rosco road, both 53cm). Toe overlap doesn't bother
me that much, but the frame would prob be easier to design, the triangle could
fit bottles and a pump more easily, and it'd look more
For me to buy another Riv? I don't know what it would look like, but it'd
be an oddball like my 53cm Rosco road.
I like the Rosco origin story, and the creativity behind it. It certainly
helped sell me on the bike, no doubt. (The tire clearance, semi-horizontal
drops, price, and tall headtube
Kinda surprising that more people haven't done as William, and had disc mounts
added their Atlantis, Hunq, Sam, etc., What would it cost, a few hundred? Plus
repaint? Or maybe get Waterford to make a disc fork? I'd guess that'd be
400-500. Anyway, a lot less than buying a new disc Riv, were one
If Riv did a Scapegoat-ish plus bike, that'd be a disc bike, wouldn't it? I
think so, for practical reasons and intended use. The Hubbuh tandem has a disc
mount for a drag brake, so it's not like Riv is morally opposed to the
technology.
FWIW, I get one finger braking with good modulation
Gotta see a pic of that Bubbe, please!
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 11:19:22 AM UTC-5, It's me Ryan wrote:
>
> I just shoved the 50 Cazaderos in my bronze Rosco Bubbe coming from the
> from the 42's...its so sick!
>
> @neil - get the 42 Cazaderos. 100%.
>
>
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e people who are really profiting off of linking up all that information
> already are doing so by using their servers and services.
>
> -J
>
> On Feb 1, 2018, 12:57 PM -0800, EasyRider <peter...@gmail.com
> >, wrote:
>
> Hi Norman, I'd just rather limit the ability o
> I'm honestly curious. An 'easy target' for what? I'm having a hard time
> imagining harm coming from what I post here.
>
> Thanks-
> -Norman 'Mostly a good apple' Bone in Portland, OR
>
>
> ------
> *From:* EasyRider <peter...@gmail.com
I'd like to use my actual name but this isn't a 1990s listserv, it's a
publicly searchable group. I'm not famous, or a public figure, or a
teacher. I'd just rather not be an easy target for bad apples with basic
keyword search abilities. That's why I "hide" behind a handle, not because
I want
I don't have a Sam, but that picture of Roman's bike definitely nudged me
toward getting the bronze Rosco Bubbe road last year. I currently run
700x42 Cazaderos and like them just fine. I also considered the Simworks
Homage and WTB Resolute (42) and the WTB Nano and Schwalbe Smart Sam (40).
So
I love my albatross bars but the key for me is
1: a long stem to let me lean forward, a little less than I would riding the
hoods of a drop bar
2: using them for stop and go downtown commuting at a slow to moderate pace,
and grocery getting. They are called cruiser bars for a reason.
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You
That is weird. Is it a typo?
Barlow gets my vote, assuming it actually is lighter.
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The only bike I'm sure has "planed" for me was a 1977 Raleigh Grand Prix,
and that was about 10 years before I heard the term. I had built it up as a
fixed gear and I was surprised how light it was, being hi-tensile steel.
Alas, it was a tad long for me in the top tube, and the bottom bracket
I like the look, especially in combination with the custom lugs of the Frank,
but at only $50 it does raise the what's wrong with it question.
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I'm not quite ready to give these a go, though I'm sure I'd dig them. For
the time being, I'm a little more curious about their antecedents. Most of
my favorite things about my bikes, much of which I learned about via
Rivendell, are "old" innovations. Were pedals like the Catalyst around
It's probably just me, but I find that if I'm going to go more than a mile
without a turn (i.e., not commuting) I'd prefer drops. After 20 minutes,
the muscles loosen up and I get to feeling bottled up and unsprung without
drops. But if I'm turning a lot, or dealing with traffic, I'd rather
hainstay length can all help or hurt
> clearance here.
>
> On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 8:58:23 AM UTC-8, EasyRider wrote:
>>
>> I agree, how much leeway one has on either side of about a 40t chainring
>> is likely going depend the frame.
>>
>> I used a 120mm
n a Salsa
> Casseroll as a fixed gear, and it had 130mm hub spacing. A 42t chainring
> at the appropriate chainline for a track hub (~42mm) never had any
> clearance issues.
>
> On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-8, EasyRider wrote:
>>
>> I'm eager to see the Fr
I'm eager to see the Frank Jones on the Blug. Should be any day now?
I hemmed and hawed and bought a 53 rosco road instead -- same thinking as you
and the bob Jackson: 130mm spacing, can be single speeded or geared.
But, again, the drawback of a 120 hub in a 130 frame is gear selection. If you
I've used a 120 fixed gear hub in a 130mm frame -- axle spacers will do the
trick. Way back when I bought a wheelset from Sheldon with those spacers,
and put them in an old Trek 330 frame.
Whether the chainline is "off" kind of depends on your ideal chainring/cog
combination. Frames spaced for
Yep, you both seem to know what I'm after. The disintegrating vest has zip off
arms, but they are too short for on the bike so I took them off years ago. It
an old Illuminite vest; the part that is breaking up is some sort of white
layer between inner mesh and outer nylon. The cut is great
Patrick thanks for the suggestions. Garth - yes, a full collar, something meant
to be an outer layer.
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I'm in the market for a new vest for commuting (and 1-2 hour rides). My last
vest was a synthetic kinda breathable number with a liner that has started to
disintegrate, leaving bits of plastic on my inner layers. For that reason I'd
to replace it with something like waxed cotton.
I've read
The long horizontal dropouts on my 53cm Rosco Bubbe road were a big reason
I bought it. Some day I'll reinvent it as a single speed. It's a 1x8 now,
and replaced an old Trek 330 road bike I had converted to fixed/free 12
years earlier.
But even with horizontal dropouts it's a compromise as a
If memory serves, my Brooks Flyer has two pairs of rails, leading from the
top and bottom of each spring to the nose of the saddle. I want to remember
that they come close to touching near the nose, and in my case, rubbed
against one another while pedaling. I wiped some bearing grease on the
OK, now I see your predicament. I agree with Nash. The bolt in your
pictures doesn't look the one in the product photos on the Paul Components
website. If you bought the brakes new and that bolt came in the package,
well I'm stumped. But if you bought the brake used or with missing pieces,
I
Ok, I think I might have the answer here.
I think you may be under the impression that the recessed nut, and bolt in that
product shot are one piece -- one bolt that threads directly into the brake
arms from the rear of the fork. That is not the case. The wide, unthreaded
portion of what you
Your photos did not load properly, please repost them.
On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the
> desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.
>
> Since a picture is worth a thousand words .
I don't see why not? Sheldon fender nuts are designed to replace the recessed
nut on caliper brakes that use that style. Paul Racers also come in a non
recessed version, if that helps.
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Paul Racers are available in a non-recessed version (nutted) and that is
probably what you want if you need to used a Sheldon fender nut. There are
pictures of the non-recessed brake on the Paul site.
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Someday, I hope to hear Grant's thoughts regarding handlebar height and
trail, alluded to in that article.
*Most of our bikes have trail numbers in the high 50s to low 60s. Combined
with a high handlebar---which I think affects steering a lot, but I'm not
going into that here---the result are
AFAIK, this is a second run of the blue Rosco Bubbe step-thrus. They use
650b wheels and the Appaloosa fork.
On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:46:31 AM UTC-4, Mike Williams wrote:
>
> Anyone have any geo info on the mountain mixtes? Sizes? What wheel size
> corresponds with bike size? I
I have used the free version of Cyclemeter and I like it, but using any GPS
app drains my iphone battery in a hurry. In cold weather, the phone dies
after a few miles.
I don't care about stats while I'm riding, but it's nice to record a gpx
file of longer rides, as a sort of souvenir. I have
Patrick, your mention of "bosque" has me pulling a favorite book from the
shelf to look up the term. It's called *Home Ground: Language for an
American Landscape*.
On Thursday, August 17, 2017 at 5:13:42 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> 22 mile dirt ride today in the Corrales bosque --
Finally! A picture of a built-up Red Roscoe! More?
On Friday, July 28, 2017 at 10:02:21 AM UTC-4, Eli Queen wrote:
>
> I'll be riding the 100k w/ a few friends. Should be a great weekend to get
> out of the city, do some camping ... I really can't wait. My 5 year old
> won't be coming along
I don't know what Riv's word is, but I think what's been suggested so far are
probably all aspects of a comprehensive X factor. Longer chain stays and lower
BBs have long been signature features of Riv frame geometry, and probably in
the service of whatever GP is hinting at. The whole "in the
Thanks James, I enjoyed it. Will your shop do another Bridgestone/Rivendell
owners ride this year? I missed last year's.
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Perhaps all your hub needs is to be repacked with new grease and adjusted
to take the lateral play out.
Is it a freewheel hub, or a cassette freehub?
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
On Saturday, July 22, 2017 at 3:32:25 PM UTC-4, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> Free*wheel* 7-speed cassette
I'm in between sizes on the Appaloosa. I asked a fellow list member what
the standover on his 51cm Appaloosa was; he measured 77.5cm with 42mm
tires.
On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 5:12:20 PM UTC-4, RJ March wrote:
>
> This is my first post and I have been driven to it by a (mild)
> desperation.
Yes! With a heat index of 100 downtown, and the pavement simmering, ugh.
But if I can play hooky and ride out to Great Falls under the tree canopy
instead, well that's a nice ride.
On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 1:58:26 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 07/17/2017 12:23 P
Here in D.C., we're into our second week of mid-90s with high humidity, so
the heat index has climbed to 100 a few times ... it was 106 last Thursday.
100 is about where I draw the line. Combined with air pollution, a 15 mile
round trip commute downtown in those conditions becomes rather
Can you describe the wheelsets/swapping you do? I have a disc bike, and
with high-quality tires in the 650b x 40-50mm range, I don't anticipate
swapping very often, if at all.
On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 1:17:43 PM UTC-4, Jeff wrote:
>
> On Wed, Jun 21, 2017 at 12:34 PM, Garth
I replaced my 26" Big Ben front tire with a Thunder Burt. I'm enjoying it!
The TB weighs about half as much as the BB, and the knobs give me a little
more control on loose stuff. Cornering and rolling seem unchanged. I'm
keeping the BB on the rear, since it doesn't seem to wear or flat.
--
For me, the main appeal of the mountain mixte is that it fits a variety of
riders. With an ~80cm PBH, I'm in between a small and medium on many Riv
models. If I were to go small on a Joe or under 50 on a Hunqapillar, I'd be
too cramped to use swept bars, even with a 130mm stem. But if I were go
+1 for the VP Vice and VP-001s, but I prefer the Vices. The 001's have pins
in the center of the pedal, and I like a slightly concave feel.
On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 2:37:09 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Daniel,
>
> The Aim's description says it is "dual concave." Does that mean it is
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