.
Australia, not Canada. But I suspect (though not having cycled in Canada)
that the distances and remoteness are probably much the same.
Nick Payne
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, where apart from the
cycle racing in Innsbruck (2018 world championships), where the longer
focal length and fast burst mode of the camera came into their own, I took
nearly all the photos with my phone.
Europe 2018: https://photos.app.goo.gl/B2RriY2XXGPfh6VaA.
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ave (still available) that has a smoother outline. They're also pretty
pricey - almost up in Chris King territory.
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tyres. Other than the increased shock
absorbtion with the larger tyres, I don't notice any difference in the
handling there either.
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was wired, not wireless) by almost
two decades.
I've been using SRAM eTap for almost a decade, with zero problems. I
presently have it on three bikes - two with the original 11-speed Red eTap,
and one with 12-speed, a mixture of Force shifters/brakes and Rival
derailleurs.
Nick Payne
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, which is between L and XL US size.
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were taken with my phone (at the time, a Pixel 4), except for the photos of
the racing at the cycling world championships in Innsbruck, where I used
the RX100 for it's greater reach and fast burst mode:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/B2RriY2XXGPfh6VaA
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/tailfin-alloy-rack-review-9813
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bright
and has a good runtime, along with the seatstay mount:
https://www.niterider.com/collections/taillights/products/vmax-%E2%84%A2-150-bike-taillight
https://www.niterider.com/products/tail-light-mount-seatstay-and-seatpost
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enough to cope with the long chainstays. As I recall, I had to remove six
or eight links to get the correct length.
https://www.connexchain.com/en/bike-chains/detail/connex-11se
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Roeckl cycling gloves come in quite a selection of colours and patterns. I
also find them extremely comfortable.
https://www.roeckl.de/#Multi:B2C/catalog/10
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. I tried three different 26.8 posts I had, including the
one supplied with the frame, and they were all slightly loose with the
binder bolt not tightened. As I had a 27.0 Nitto and an adjustable reamer,
I reamed the seat tube so that the 27.0 post was an exact fit in the seat
tube.
Nick Payne
It's a bit easier in this country with metric units. One of our cycling
friends who recently turned 80 celebrated his birthday with an 80km ride.
Nick Payne
Canberra
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for fitting to the seatstay bridge (recessed allen-head fitting on the
bridge)?
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eehub-body-for-shimano-cassettes-739505
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To
because we use metric in this country - if you want MPH
values, just modify the speed formulas to divide the KPH values by 1.609.
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of cycling.
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If you want silver (as in unpainted metal) hubs, the White Industries MI5
hubs are nice.
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Alex's Cycle in Japan have them:
https://alexscycle.com/products/nitto-r-50-saddle-bag-supporter-1.
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-speed, and other
manufacturers (eg YBN, BBB, KMC) offer the same 136 link length as well.
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in requires me to
make an explicit choice.
I do have a pair of those Carmina cranks on a bike, and they are nice,
though I think the TA Zephyr cranks on our tandem are even nicer.
Unfortunately the Zephyr are no longer in production.
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When I look at Peter White's website, he sells a pair of Carmina crankarms
for $243, spider for $92, and a pair of TA chainrings will set you back
another $100 or so. That's around a $250 saving over the Analog Cycles
price...
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p.s. Here's a quite interesting video showing the manufacture of the
Berthoud saddles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0OeHK6sVEw.
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of them on various bikes, two Vars and one Mente. I've been a user of
Brooks Pro and B17 since the 1970s, but the Berthoud saddles are more
comfortable for me.
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difference in the
frame weights, plus you also have a more durable frame and (hopefully)
better performing and lasting components.
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with it, so I can
easily swap it between bikes.
https://routewerks.cc/
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fine
almost 40 years later, though they're now pretty rusty. BG doesn't make
racks any longer, but I've also had no problems using Tubus steel racks on
my own tourer. I bought their stainless steel racks (Tara front, Fly rear).
Nick Payne
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OK with the B screw
in a few turns.
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of
Roeckl lobster mitts over thin woolen gloves keep my fingers feeling OK.
For feet I have a pair of Shimano winter shoes - I think the model is MW7.
The best skullcaps for those sort of temperatures I've found, that will fit
under a helmet, are made by Vaude.
Nick Payne
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on the North Sea
cycle route that that was broadcast about ten years ago.
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On Sunday, 10 September 2023 at 10:32:26 am UTC+10 J wrote:
I think only Apple users can view these
No, I can view HEIC images on Windows 11 using the Paint application from
Microsoft.
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Cables for Campagnolo shifters have a slightly smaller head than those for
Shimano/SRAM, by about 0.1-0.2mm. If you install a Shimano/SRAM cable in a
Campagnolo shifter, you'll have similar problems trying to extract it when
it needs replacing.
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standard as it was the seatpost size used on most frames built with
Reynolds 531C.
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not
designed for them, and finding that it was perfectly comfortable over that
distance. Unfortunately the bike was stolen out of my house in the early
90s, and I never acquired another aluminium frame until the Mason that I
bought recently.
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-almotion
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26.8
by my vernier calipers, was a slightly loose fit in the seat tube. So I
reamed the seat tube to 27.0 and used a 27.0 Nitto S83.
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that the Riv felt any more comfortable or
better handling. The Al frame was running Conti GP Urbans and the Riv Rene
Herse Bon Jon Pass, both nominally 35mm tyres.
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not quite
that large. I think the instructions with the Hutchinson claim it can be
used on punctures up to 5mm size.
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are used to hide this fact. It also doesn't look as though
there are eyelets on either the front or rear dropouts.
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with 23mm tires. I'm on tandem for PBP this year but if I were to ride
PBP solo again, I'd take the Bleriot with 38mm tires.
Same here on the Bleriot. I've ridden multiple brevets on mine, mostly shod
with the Hutchinson "Confrérie des 650B" tyres.
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adjustable reamers off Aliexpress for less than $10. No
idea of the quality (probably crap), but they should last long enough to do
the job you need on an aluminium stem.
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ey're nice bikes to ride. I just don't think
they're the be-all and end-all of bicycle design. What the OP seems to be
looking for in a bike is closer to what you and I both recommended.
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Owne
at's just not comparable to any Rivendell I've seen!
>
> On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 2:00:11 PM UTC-7 Nick Payne wrote:
>
>> I've come to like modern aluminium frames - they're a far cry from the
>> rigid Cannondales of 25 years ago. I've been riding bikes for about half a
>&g
I have a couple of bikes setup with 42/29 chainrings on 94BCD cranks and
either 11-34 or 11-36 cassette. I find 42-11 quite a big enough gear - I
can pedal it up to ~50kph without problem, and 29-34 or 29-36 can get me up
some pretty long steep climbs also without problem.
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this the wrong way around. If you remove the outer ring, then
the crank needs to be moved outwards, because the chainline is now between
the two remaining chainrings rather than being on what was the middle ring
when there were three. And vice versa if you get rid of the granny.
Nick Payne
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the requirement for bicycle
number plates, and although that was no longer the case when I arrived
there in 1963, you still saw quite a number of bicycles being ridden around
with number plates still attached:
https://historical.cc/news/2017/5/12/wa-bicycle-number-plates.
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for the price Phil wanted to upgrade their hub, my
touring bike now sports a rear wheel using a Deore XT hub.
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derailleurs, on all sorts of road
surfaces, and has never had the chain unship. She uses SRAM GX Eagle 1x12
on one bike, and Eagle AXS on another.
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-kangaroos/
.
Nick Payne
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I'll chime in on the side of those who find the Tektro 556/559 calipers
stop well (Koolstop pads, Shimano R400 brake levers). I've had my Bleriot
with 556 calipers on tours in the mountains several times, and not had any
problems with inadequate stopping power. The braking isn't as good as with
Can't say anything about the Thompson post, but I have both the XC Pro and
S83, and the setback is the same on both within a millimetre or two (that's
to the front of the saddle rail clamp, which is what determines how far
back you can set the saddle).
Some of the Kalloy UNO posts look to have
On Friday, 31 March 2023 at 12:22:28 am UTC+11 Garth wrote:
With cartridge BB's however, having the two sides perfectly aligned isn't
critical as it is with cups and cones. In fact it has no bearing on it's
function, pardon the pun. So for straightening/cleaning out threads the
Hozan or home
Roeckl gloves seem to last, are nicely padded, and, depending on the model,
both the long finger and short finger come with or without velcro
fastenings.
https://roeckl.de/#Multi:B2C/catalog/10
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My Romulus (cheaper version of the Rambouillet) will fit 32s with SKS
fenders using Sheldon fender nuts. With Berthoud stainless steel fenders
I'm limited to 28mm tyres, due to the extra clearance needed under the fork
crown for the daruma bolt.
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(eg https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803775069380.html). Probably OK for
home use, but I have no idea of the quality.
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It's an English term for derailleurs that's been around for decades. I can
remember seeing it in English cycling magazines in the 1970s when I first
became interested in cycling.
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the
paint being worn off by the fender.
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a 1.8mm
spacer on the inside of the cassette, or the lockring will bottom out
before it has tightened on the cassette.
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sculpting of the
cage on a triple FD is intended for use with chainrings where there is a
reasonably large jump in the number of teeth between the granny and middle
chainrings, and a considerably smaller jump between the middle and outer
chainrings.
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On Wednesday, 15 February 2023 at 2:45:51 am UTC+11 JohnS wrote:
Nick, that's one clean Appaloosa! Did you just give it a refurb? I'm in the
process of giving my QB one.
No, the bike has been sitting in my back room for a while as all my cycling
lately has been unloaded riding on other bikes. I
On Friday, 27 January 2023 at 12:57:25 pm UTC+11 Paul M wrote:
My recent Susie calls for a 26.8 seatpost but with the stock Kalloy
seatpost there is a fair amount of play. I had a 27.0 Kalloy seatpost that
fit snug and solved the problem. I'm not sure a Nitto 26.8 seatpost would
have solved the
If you want fenders to actually catch the maximum amount of spray when it's
raining and/or the roads are wet, then metal fenders with a rolled edge, a
la Honjo or Berthoud, do a better job of minimising the amount of spray
that comes out the side of the fenders than do the plastic fenders.
They're not going to fit through the fork without a bit of work to narrow
them where they pass through. I have the VO 63mm fenders on my Appaloosa
(they actually measure 63.5mm), and there's only a fraction of a millimetre
clearance each side where they pass between the fork blades - I fitted
I always chase and face BB shell threads before installing a bottom
bracket. Almost universally I find there is some misalignment and/or
distortion that the taps and facing cutters correct. Even custom frames
from well-known builders benefit from having this done.
Ditto for the reaming of the
The Nitto Fairweather M174AA bar has 75mm reach, and comes in widths from
380mm to 460mm. 25.4mm clamp diameter.
https://global.bluelug.com/fairweather-m174aa-all-road-bar-silver.html
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On Friday, 9 December 2022 at 10:12:54 am UTC+11 jackd...@gmail.com wrote:
> My Hunqapillar is the favorite in the stable, but I think a case can
> really be made to bring back the Bleriot. Classic geometry, MIT (I believe)
> to keep the price reasonable, and I'd argue that the decal
>
On Saturday, 3 December 2022 at 2:24:41 pm UTC+11 Scott wrote:
> John, the Atlantis I purchased new from Riv last month takes a 31.8 clamp
> FD. Yours is a 28.6? They must have changed along the way?
>
I think you'll find your Atlantis seat tube is 28.6mm diameter (AKA 1⅛").
That's what the
You'll need a set of external BB cups for a 30mm spindle, and a couple of
2.5mm spacers to go under the cups, given that your frame has a 68mm rather
than 73mm BB shell. And if it hasn't already been done, it's definitely
worth getting the BB shell chased and faced to ensure that the cups are
Ditto on the Kool Stop City pads in salmon. That's what I'm using with the
V-brakes on my Appaloosa. As Steven says, they're short enough that they
don't hit the fork blades when opening the brake for wheel removal, making
it easy to drop out a fat-tyred wheel without deflating the tyre.
On Thursday, 24 November 2022 at 7:44:57 am UTC+11 John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Interesting comparison between the Open and the Rivendell.
>
> Are you using seatposts with the same amount of seatpost setback on the
> Romulus and the Open???The STA for a 61cm/Large frame are very close
>
I think the Viva brass hammer bells are uncoated and weather quite nicely.
[image: image-85-600x600[1].jpeg]
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On Friday, 18 November 2022 at 2:18:11 pm UTC+11 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
> Look at a modern gravel bike like the Open UPPER (which Jan Heine praises
> as the ideal "all road" bike --- to the point where they're going to sell a
> special Rene Herse edition of it on their website) and the
I had a tandem fork repaired where the crown had cracked. The builder (not
the original builder of the tandem) heated the crown enough so that he
could remove the steerer and fork blades, cleaned them up, and fitted a new
fork crown.
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I'd say that your middle chainring is probably quite worn, to the point
where the teeth refused to let go of the bottom run of the chain and
carried it up and around until it jammed under the derailleur and top run
of chain. As to how to avoid it, replace chainrings before they get to that
There's also a good documentary on her: "Who is Dervla Murphy". I rented it
and watched it a while ago. Worth the money. The trailer is here:
https://vimeo.com/ondemand/dervlamurphy.
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49d / 93 / 99 are all Stronglight (not TA) crank models, and they use a
different extractor thread size. See here:
https://steintool.com/portfolio-items/stronglight-and-ta-crank-extractors/.
On Tuesday, 23 August 2022 at 3:25:32 am UTC+10 Charlie wrote:
> used to remove TA cranks #49d-93-99
On Friday, 12 August 2022 at 6:06:48 am UTC+10 aeroperf wrote:
> I tried the Schwalbe Marathon 622x37 at 65 psi for a year. It was like
> riding through mud
>
There are multiple different models that Schwalbe call Marathon. Have a
look here: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/city-tour - there are a
So far as Rivendell models go, I have:
A Riv custom frame from late last century
A Romulus
A Bleriot
An Appaloosa
If I could only keep one, it would probably be the Bleriot, as the closest
thing to an all-round bike.
Nick
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On Saturday, 6 August 2022 at 1:26:16 am UTC+10 George Schick wrote:
> Interestingly, I have either B-17's or a Flyer on all but one of my bikes
> and I ride them without issue. The 4th one, however, has a Team Pro,
> probably the narrowest of the Brooks saddles and whenever I ride that one I
I dislike flat handlebars so much that back in the days when I had an MTB,
I took the flat bars off it and substituted drop bars after the first
couple of rides. Drop bars offer multiple different hand positions, which I
find very useful on long rides:
1. holding the straight section of
I have the Tektro R556/R559 (the only difference between the two is that
the R559 has a lock on the quick release lever) on three bikes, and the
braking is fine on all of them. On one bike I have Shimano R400 brake
levers, another one has SRAM Force double-tap integrated shift/brake
levers,
I'll second the nail varnish suggestion. Several of my bikes (including a
Riv custom with a Joe Bell paint job) have repairs to the paintwork that
I've done with nail varnish - on some of them the varnish has been there
the best part of 20 years, and is still protecting the frame.
Nick
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On Thursday, 14 April 2022 at 6:11:06 am UTC+10 Fullylugged wrote:
> Rams shipped as completes with non machined Arraya rims. Grant touted them
> as longer lasting due to thicker wall material than machined.
Yes, the Romulus that I bought about 20 years ago came with Araya RC-540
rims.
--
I've raced on and off for ~40 years, and when I was still working, I quite
frequently used to roll up for the 6am training rides with the local racing
cyclists on the Bleriot that I commuted on, complete with mudguards and
Carradice camper longflap saddlebag containing my work clothes, lunch,
Back in 2015 Kraftwerk played a gig at the TdF *Grand Depart* in Utrecht.
There's an interview in *Rolling Stone* with Ralf Hütter where he talks
about their long association with cycling:
I grew up in Perth, Western Australia, which is certainly the windiest city
in Australia and probably somewhere up there on a world basis (I think
Wellington in New Zealand is generally regarded as taking the prize for
that). During late summer and autumn in Perth, we often get strong easterly
I only use tubeless setup on the one bike that I regularly ride several
times each week. On other bikes, which might spend several weeks at a time
hanging up and not being ridden, I don't set them up as tubeless, even if
they have tubeless-compatible tyres and rims, because while the bikes are
The freewheel mechanisms in my hubs vary from Onyx (completely silent),
through Shimano (fairly quiet), DT Swiss (not so quiet), to Hope (pretty
loud). But I can't say that I really think about or notice hub noise when
I'm riding. I really only notice it when I'm servicing bikes in the garage.
I think the S67 is the black version of the S65. I prefer the S83 (aka
Frog), with its two bolt setup vs the single bolt of the S65/67. It's much
easier to make fine adjustments to the saddle angle with the S83.
Nick
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I find my Hope hubs (quite noisy when freewheeling) are useful on
bikepaths. When approaching pedestrians from behind, a quick freewheel is
usually enough to get their attention without having to ring my bell.
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My experience is that the clear stick-on plastic chainstay protection lasts
for decades without visible deterioration. My late 90s Riv custom came with
one installed, and it's still in place without visible damage - in fact
it's very hard to see unless you look closely. And on my Bleriot, as
After having tried quite a number of different saddles over the years, my
wife has the Selle Italia Lady Gel flow saddle (in the 160mm wide L size)
on all her bikes: https://www.selleitalia.com/en/saddles/lady-gel-flow-s/.
Nick
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That setup of mine is pretty quick release. Takes about 15 seconds to
unhook the Voile straps and enlarge their loop so that the bag can be
detached from the support, and slightly longer to hook them up when
re-installing.
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>From looking at the Riv website, they show the newer model Onyx Vesper
hubs, which are lighter and have smaller narrower sprags than their
original models. However, I have seen a few messages on various MTB forums
from users who have had problems with these newer hubs. I've had a pair of
the
On Thursday, 27 January 2022 at 6:36:02 am UTC+11 Joe Bernard wrote:
> I remember in the very early years of Riv that Grant mentioned Bullseye
> hubs do this and to basically ignore it. Until I've done a
> *lot *more riding..ignore it I shall.
>
I have some Bullseye hubs that are now almost
According to this test, Fluid Film works best:
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/anti-corrosion-product-shootout.1073581/.
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I'm quite happy with the pair of Pedros that I've had for many years.
Nick
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As someone who owned a couple of Duopars back in the 1980s, they worked
better than anything else around at the time when new, but they were rather
flimsy and easily bent, and even if you managed to avoid bending them, they
wore out rather quickly in real world conditions.
The Jubilee was just
The Nitto S84 lugged seatpost has more setback than their aluminium
seatposts...
[image: 111368887233_691ba91b48_b[1].jpg]
Nick
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