Or get them all at once:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093SKS6XV/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2
Second bike tool I bought, after a good workstand. They have saved me
enormous amounts of frustration.
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All that considered, I’d say get the taller bike.
The folks at Riv do tend to put you on the tallest bike they think will
clear your stand-over height.
The tiny bit extra chainstay length and wheelbase will add to the “Riv
ride” feel.
And you won’t have so much seat post showing that you’ll
I would think it would be all about the tires.
If you have more than one bike, what are the wheel sizes of the others?
You might want to standardize so you can swap tires. Or if you have
specific tires in mind, what size do they come in?
While there are now a lot of options for 650b tires,
Get a Sam with a 3x9 drive.
Strong enough to do the riding you want, versatile enough for errands and
light touring, and very comfortable.
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In June 2022 we did a tour down the Canal du Midi in southern France. In
June 2022 it was 105 degrees in the shade in southern France - fires
breaking out everywhere - but we had already paid, so we went.
Long story short, I got heatstroke and something called compartment
syndrome, which
A Sam with 42mm tires at 55 psi. Pure bliss on pavement.
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I like the Deore LX trekking equipment. A rear hub would be FH-T670.
Quiet and bulletproof. I’ve laced them to Velocity Atlas and Velocity
Dyads.
For a front hub, I tend to use Shimano 105s because they are reliable and
reasonably cheap.
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Do it yourself! Have your LBS order a matching dynamo and the required
spokes (and the correct spoke wrench) and have at it with a little help
from YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUqul03hbZ8
Then take it back to your LBS and have them tighten and true it for $20.
It only takes an
Then, if you do need to replace the bottom bracket, you’ll need a tool like
this to snug up the new one.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-BBT-22-Shimano-Cartridge/dp/B001A0AIAG/?th=1=1
I took my Sam to the LBS to take the old one out. The guys in Taiwan (or
at Rivendell) must have hydraulic
Every 5000 miles the cables on my Sam get cleaned and lubed with Phils
Tenacious Oil.
John Dewey - that is an outstanding photograph.
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I wanted a “medium” touring bike, so I got an A Homer Hilsen frame.
I was also impressed with how the 24mm, eternal bearing, Hollowtech II
drive system felt. It was, to my feet, noticeably stiffer than the square
taper BBs I had been using for years.
So, loath to screw up a Rivendell frame, I
I’m going to stick with the spacers going as shown in the exploded view -
spacers going between the cup and the BB shell.
You’re absolutely right on the prep work. Both bikes were chased, but the
Soma was not faced… probably why it gets by with the spacer stack slightly
smaller.
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And of course, the system reversed my photos versus their names. 1 -
Soma. 2 - Homer. 3 - EV.
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My dislike with a coaster brake is that the rear tire wears out a lot more
quickly than I expected.
You do have to disconnect the torque arm to remove the rear wheel, but
that’s usually not a big deal. Just remember the correct screwdriver.
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Whups. My shopping bike is 130mm. Looks like I'll have to fix it rather
than cannibalize it for a Roaduno.
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At 74, I bike a mile farther than the same month last year. May in 2022 I
did 200 miles, May in 2023 I did 201, May this year I’ll do 202, for
example. Since the goal depends on the weather, it works out to about 1350
a year. This keeps me (slowly) improving without killing myself.
I mean,
I’m with the others regarding the Marathons. I’ve had trouble putting them
on Atlas and Dyads, too. I carry a couple of the plastic tire “irons”, but
only when I have Marathons on.
To me, they also feel like I’m riding through mud. But I wouldn’t have
anything else for a tour.
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Excellent, excellent choice.
When I retired I also bought a Rivendell. I’ve never regretted it.
Neither will you.
Love the mud flaps! Great choice! Enjoy!
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Interesting discussion.
When we lived in Germany (2002-2003) I picked up a “Top City” “Sundance”
bicycle for my wife to ride while shopping.
It has a 7-speed internally-geared rear hub with a rear coaster brake, a
front V-brake, and a 7-speed grip shift. The rear hub is 135mm wide.
I thought
So one thing I’ve noticed - I mean REALLY noticed - about our Rivendell
bikes is that they get compliments.
I ride the Silver Comet near Atlanta.
https://groups.google.com/g/bicycletouring/c/cFpcvUWqzkA
For 15 years I rode a Diamondback Approach, a decent hybrid bike (as they
called those
Patrick
The ‘Hiro’ chuck I have is a steel Presta chuck that screws onto a
Schrader-thread pump head. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMRQGEO/
Your Tanaka chuck looks like the same thing but looks like it can be
installed directly into a pump hose using a clamp?
I got tired of screwing a
Second recommendation for the Silca 'Hiro' chuck. Going strong after 8
years. $30 at Amazon.
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My 2019 Homer fit Velo Orange Zeppelin 52 fenders no problem.
It had 559 brakes as well, but it was a 650b tire size.
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Re-reading this a year or more later - I'm still looking for someone to
post who rode both a Homer and a Sam extensively, and kept the Homer.
Anyone?
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Why not both? You can still get a Shimano M591 new, though it is an older
design, that works well with a 34-tooth cassette. This is a solid,
reliable design that Rivendell used to ship on their builds. It is Deore,
but not XT.
A Deore XT equivalent like the M772 (also older design) is
Ack. "Buy it".
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Do they have to be new?
Find a good used late-90s hybrid at your LBS or on Craigslist. You can
probably find one for less than $200.
But it. Take the wheels.
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I keep thinking it might be easier now (2023) to do a lugged frame than it
was 10 years ago because…
You can design the frame with a CAD program, design the lugs with the same
program, and print the lugs using a 3-D printer. If you don’t print the
steel lugs themselves, you can use the 3-D
I was going to suggest checking for a loose headset, but It is obviously
the stem, and Garth is right on.
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I live near Atlanta and ride my 2014 Sam year round on city streets and
rails-to-trails.
I'm not a "power rider", just a continuous one. I'm 74 and bang along at
about 12 mph, doing about 1500 miles a year. I was shocked when I actually
wore out a chain.
It’s garaged, so I wash it with
PM Sent
aeroperf
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Typical spacing between chainrings is 5mm.
However, it is all about the chainline.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html
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Thursday it had finally warmed up enough here in Atlanta that I went for a
pleasure ride (about 13 miles) on the Silver Comet Trail.
Besides the “Boy, am I out of shape” feeling, a 6-point buck jumped up next
to me and start leaping along about 30 feet to my right. We see a number
of deer on
I’d probably better get my two cents in.
I’m working off a pile of parts that I’ve collected over the years. That’s
not necessarily the best way to approach a new build, but it will get
something on the road. And everybody has a pile of parts…somewhere…
I took the frame down to the LBS for
Also this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUqul03hbZ8
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OK, I’ll start a new thread. Alan - great photos.
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For those of us who have ordered a Platypus, and got a “raw” frame in a
box, I’m interested in how people are building them up. I’m also
interested in how previous Platy people from the last batch (raw plus Riv
builds) have built up theirs.
I’m coming at this from: This build is for my
Thanks, Scott. That helps a lot.
I’m going for Tektro linear pull V-brakes, but no decision on levers yet.
I like the adjustable pull on those levers, though. I hadn’t run into that
before.
I’m not trying to hijack this thread, but “Who is getting a Platypus”?
implies “and how are you going
Thanks, shoji.
My mind is still stuck in the side pull era of early Sams and Homers, so I
need to get educated, and that helps.
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My wife’s Platypus frame arrived this morning. Woo hoo!
It was packed in fitted cardboard, with paper stock protecting the finish,
and arrived in perfect “not prepped” condition. Kudos! Headset and
seatpost were included in a box (with a Riv bandana!).
I have not a clue about proper brakes or
It is certainly not just Riv bikes.
My second bike is a Soma Saga Disc, which has the same geometry as my Sam
but with a slightly lower top tube.
They even warn about the problem (first and last paragraphs):
https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/saga-disc-frame-set-2
I use Kai's solution on
No spare bike in a box for me. My second bike is fully built up so that if
my Sam does come up lame or missing, I have something else immediately. If
I don’t get the Sam back, I can say “I once had a Rivendell, and it was a
marvelous ride”.
I have an ’82 Team Fuji road bike that I got in ’86
I had this discussion with my wife today, because she is about to join the
Riv Sisters with a Platypus. I ordered her frame yesterday.
The discussion turned to lights. Add a front hub generator and a light,
and now you’re talking over $4000 for the bike she wants.
$1750 for a frame, $400 for a
I would say loaded touring IS pushing the envelope for a Homer. Better
would be a Sam, best would probably be an Atlantis or Appaloosa.
I bought a Homer for not-so-loaded touring, and found it was not the bike
for the job for me.
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My bike trail was closed for two weeks in April, 2020, so I rode 2 miles on
the 45mph road to get to the next county where it was still open.
I stayed well to the right of the shoulder white line, but one day a
passing driver came close enough to clip my rear-view mirror. Handlebars
went hard
Ouch. Difference in reach - 25mm, not cm.
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When I get a case of cycling burnout, I tend to find and read a book about
touring.
“Signs of Life” by Stephen Fabes is a decent one, if you’re looking for a
recommendation.
Pretty soon I’m itching to ride a tour again.
Or I check the internet for a new bicycle wrenching “skill” that I could
I ride a modified Soma Osprey bar for light touring. Some rise, just the
right wrist position for me. Modified by taking a centimeter off each end
- the original is pretty wide.
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I’ve run Continental Speed Ride tires for 5 years. I haven’t had a flat
with them, though that's probably just luck.
They only come in one size - 622 x 42. I run them on my Sam at 55 psi.
They cost about $25. The last set went over 5000 miles.
I tried the Schwalbe Marathon 622x37 at 65 psi
As one also with stenosis (and L2 - L4 fused), I found that bending over
just a little bit was better than upright walking. So…biking! But I tried
6 saddles on my Sam, and all of them hurt various places on my butt after a
while. Finally I got a Brooks B-17 carved. After break-in and
https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/KHm7pCW92IM
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I ride a Soma Saga for heavy touring and a Rivendell Sam Hillborne for
light touring.
During 2020 I did the kitty litter check - made up 5-pound bags of kitty
litter to try riding with different weight distributions.
My Sam was very comfortable 10 pounds forward and 20 pounds aft. More than
A couple of things to check that I have run into—
There are three dots at the bottom of both your second post and Garth’s
post in this thread.
When you click on that, it expands and shows the post that you are
“replying” to, even if you clicked “Reply all”.
All that is also included in your
Yes, that should be the production year.
My Sam Hillborne tag says “Serial M14052003 date 4/8/15”. The frame was
produced in 2014, and I purchased it in April 2015.
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As Bill and George said.
My forever bike is a steel, double diamond frame with upright (non-drop)
bars. Since 1985 all my bikes have been of that design.
Specifically right now that need is filled by a 2014 Sam, but there have
been others before, and may be others after.
When I can’t balance on
As an aerodynamics/performance engineer who used to live in Wichita, KS (20
mph is a gentle breeze)—with that setup I would:
Make sure that I had a saddle that would allow me to bend over - some
saddles *force* you to ride bolt upright.
Bend over when I could, sticking my elbows out. Lowering
I use a Sigma BC 12.12 Bike Computer, wired, and read it into a spreadsheet
with the Sigma DataCenter program.
I bought a bunch of them years ago and calibrate them for each bike on the
trail I ride.
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Um, machine screws tend to be fastened with a screwdriver, while bolts tend
to have a nut and be fastened with a wrench.
This leaves open what to call a fastener that uses an allen wrench - most
common is capscrew, but bolt is also used.
Real quick JIS explanation from a motorcycle guy:
Came here looking for the: “Unclip the playing cards from your chainstays”
comment.
[badda bum!]
OK, I’m old. But I can’t be the only one who did this as a kid...
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Rivendell bikes are boutique bikes, like Prada sells boutique purses.
You’re paying a premium for the name. You’re also getting lugs, and a
comfortable ride.
My forever bike is my 2015 55 Sam. I’ve had people call it a “Classic”.
It’s not. It’s new. I’ve had people call it “Retro”. It’s
Don’t forget the “Sheldon Brown” solution to a cold head during winter
riding - tape over the vents in your helmet with packaging tape.
Cheap, but effective.
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To be fair to Joe - which I am also always willing to do - he did say no
one should remove the accessories.
Someone in another thread posted a 29.x pound Platy, but stated that they
had gone for a light weight build.
So I was trying to encourage posts with all the goodies for a typical
weight.
Not that shocking. Those sound like reasonable numbers for reasonably
equipped bikes.
We’ve been conditioned by the racing crowd to think that lighter weight is
somehow “good”, and we should pay gobs of $$$ for it.
What really counts is whether you enjoy the ride.
Thanks for the data points!
Thanks, Kate!
Nice set-up. Don’t listen to Joe - it’s not a contest.
It gives my wife more ammunition, though.
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Yup.
Pretty please with sugar on top will you weigh that bike?
Better yet, both bikes. Peppermint Platy, and Stealth Platy.
Thanks in advance.
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"…they’re not *that* heavy."
How heavy are they? Will somebody (or everybody) who owns a Platypus
*please* take it to your LBS, get it weighed, and post the number?
My wife, who rides a 35 pound aluminum KTM Sorrento touring bike and wants
a Platypus, would really like to know.
What does a
Then I’ll suggest the Silver Comet/Chief Ladiga trail out of Atlanta, if
you want a paved trail.
https://groups.google.com/g/bicycletouring/c/cFpcvUWqzkA
Typically high 40’s, low 50’s for temperatures, though it is getting below
freezing at night right now. The last significant snow I remember
Downtube shifters have the advantage of simplicity and a shorter cable run.
However, they are most useful for road bikes with very aggressive riding
position - where the seat is a good bit higher than the bars, and you can
just move your hand to the downtube without bending farther.
Bar ends
I’m enjoying these responses immensely, mostly because I knew nothing about
Riv or Grant until after I rode my friend’s Sam in 2010.
So I was initially surprised by the number of folks here who have come up
from Bridgestone through Grant to Rivendell.
I shouldn’t have been surprised. My LBS
I see Laura B’s thread about Susie vs. Platy, and Iconley’s timeline with
15 Riv bikes, and so I thought I’d ask:
What made you buy your first Rivendell bicycle?
Not “What do you like about Rivendell bicycles”, or “Why did you buy a
second one?”, but why did you buy your first?
In my case
I
Hetchins52-
No, the Sam weighed about 3/4 pounds more than the Homer, comparably
equipped: 30.5 vs 29 lb 14 oz (29.875). This is the problem with weighing
- the Homer was 650B but had heavier tires, etc., etc.
It just comes down to weighing what you actually ride, and then basing off
of that.
While we’re going "arg!"...
A number of threads have asked, and one of the questions could be answered
just by hanging a bike on the scale at your LBS.
I was hoping Leah would weigh Peppermint Platy before and after her build,
but I guess that’s OBE.
How about somebody go weigh their Clem,
This thread made me get out the digital calipers and go check things.
After a bunch of re-measurements, I guess I just have to accept that I have
weird seatpost sizes.
2014 Sam Hillborne = 27.2
1982 Team Fuji = 27.2
2020 Soma Saga tourer = 27.6
2002 KTM tourer = 27.6
2001 Sundance Top City
The LHT is one of the world’s best medium/heavy touring bikes. You might
consider cross-posting to the bicycle touring group.
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Thankfully, the Sheldon Brown website is continuing on.
His wife, Harriet Fell, and technical writer John Allen will keep it going.
Good interview here:
https://outspokencyclist.com/2021/06/show-561-june-26-2021/
>From the website:
“Reports of the demise of this Web site are greatly exaggerated!
I started using a Capri 31000 torque wrench (Amazon, ~$40) when I started
seriously working with bottom brackets, free hubs, and freewheels. For 4
years it has worked perfectly.
For almost everything else, I use the “one grunt or two grunts” hand method.
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An '82 Fuji America is a great bike if you can find one. What the road
bike people thought was a touring bike back then.
https://classicfuji.posthaven.com/1982-fuji-catalog-no-12-edition
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What I got from the blog was that he was an ER doctor. He didn't start
specializing in tropical diseases until he actually was on the tour.
He got some whiff of it in Africa, but it was the trip up from
Indonesia-Maylaysia-India that rubbed his nose in it.
It's been 5 years since I read the
While he was cycling, he put out a blog so you could follow the trip. I
stumbled on it in about 2014 and followed him until he got home. It was
fascinating. I can’t find the blog anymore, and I’m betting that is what
became the book.
His journal: https://stephenfabes.com/journal/ contains
Bump - Last chance for someone local to Atlanta.
51 Cm. Perfect for a young lady or someone who wouldn’t make the
basketball team…
And you get to pick your own drive system.
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I ride the standard R559s on a 700c Sam, but switched to Yokozuna salmon
pads after about a year. I’m 215 pounds. Yes, they are not as good when
wet as disc brakes, but I’ve never had a real problem with them.
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My 2015 Sam came with an XD2 double and a Claris FD.
I modified the XD2 into a triple - 46-36-26, and installed a Sora FD-3030.
It has worked perfectly for 4 years.
I also tried it with a Deore FD-M610-B in the front, and it, too, worked
perfectly.
Chainline is a very real consideration.
If you could use your top tube:
https://www.amazon.com/Repurposed-Bicycle-Handmade-Hide-Drink/dp/B015JMQIFO/
Otherwise you might strap on one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/TOURBON-Canvas-Leather-Bicycle-Carrier/dp/B07JVQW85W/
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Aaron - Yes, it was about the same amount of effort. I wasn’t trying to
match speeds, and didn’t. I live on a rails-to-trails and know it pretty
well, and I don’t match day to day on a given bike. Some days are windier,
some are hotter. On the Sam I’ve done the same ride at 10.9 mph and
I use a leather steering wheel cover. They come in different sizes and
colors, lace on, and are cheap.
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My XD2 26/36/46 with a Deore XT RD-M591 derailleur, HG-400 9 speed 11-34
cassette and KMC 9 speed chain has worked fine on my Sam for 5 years.
I ran it for a while in 10-speed mode by changing only the cassette and
thumb shifter. That worked well too.
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The only people who have ever asked the price were fellow bicyclists. They
usually preface the question with “Nice bike!”
I note that most ride carbon frames, and don’t bat an eye because their
bikes typically cost more.
And I only think they asked because they recognize that it is a modern
Some of it is a matter of manufacturing plant closures due to covid:
https://www.bicycleretailer.com/international/2021/06/10/shimano-forced-shut-malaysia-component-factory-latest-blow-supply-chain
Some of it is due to unprecedented demand - a new bicycle boom:
Sorry, I see that it is the Great Allegheny Passage. I should have read
more closely.
Thanks for your post!
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Was this route that they call The Great Allegheny Passage?
https://www.aarp.org/travel/vacation-ideas/outdoors/info-2021/rail-trails-for-biking.html
I’ve wanted to do that for a few years now. I’ve thought about using my
Sam, but the trail seemed more suited for my Soma Saga tourer. How did
I use Velocity Atlas wheels on my Sam, and they’ve been good with any tire
size I’ve tried up through 50mm. I’m 200 lbs plus, so I use 36 spokes.
They are possibly a bit of overkill for my typical 42mm tires, but they’ve
been trouble free.
My touring bike has Velocity Dyads and they run fine
And under the “if I knew then what I know now” department…
It is really tough to buy a boutique bike without having ridden it. If
you’re going to pay >$3000 for a fully tricked-out Rivendell, or ~$1500 for
a frame+fork, you want to get it right. So…
Do you have a bike you ride or have ridden
I’m 5’ 9” (used to be 5’ 10”) and measured my PBH at 83. I measured it
again to be sure I was doing it right, then again a couple of weeks later.
Every bicycle I had from 1975 on was 700c. There was no way I was going to
go 650b. I ordered a Sam in 2015, and Will set me up with a 55 Cm frame
Just so we know what we're talking about, here is the exploded view.
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-RD-M580-2367.pdf
There is a spring that runs the body (2), and a spring that tensions the
cage (9).
As a Mechanical Engineer, if I had two of these, I'd take one apart just on
general
This thread is becoming a very interesting discussion for me.
For 40 years I designed and tested airplanes. I specialized in
aerodynamics/performance, hence: aeroperf. When a boss would ask what was
my greatest challenge, I would have to say “Weight!”.
So Phillip points out that “those Kenda
I can’t imagine someone who wanted a certain Rivendell bike turning it down
because another model weighed a pound less.
I’m just interested in what design choices have what results. Like the
step-throughs. How does a Platypus (mixte) compare to a Susie (swooping
top tube) compare to a Clem
I would be interested to find out what ANY of the Riv frame sets weigh. My
only data point is for a 2014 55 Sam, built up with fenders, bell, and rear
rack - 30.5 pounds.
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I run Velocity Atlas rims (on my Sam) and Velocity Dyad rims (on my
tourer). I do mostly pavement riding.
I’ve run Continental Speed Ride tires for 5 years. I haven’t had a flat
with them, ever (though that's probably just luck). I run them at 50 psi.
They only come in one size - 622 x 42.
Dang, that is a big collection of spare parts.
Your problem with this thread is going to be the fact that everybody has an
opinion. People “like” different things, and will be proponents of them.
So what you need to do first is figure out what YOU like. and that is
going to be hard.
You like
Would this be worth a dedicated “How to sell a Riv” thread?
I’ve seen a lot of people selling, a lot of people looking to buy. This is
the first thread I’ve seen with discussion about How To.
List in a lot of places, list on other groups, be patient, consider
consignment at an LBS.
To which I
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