It looks like it's this file:

/etc/fonts/conf.d/30-metric-aliases.conf

That's causing the problems. If that file is removed, then everything
goes back to the happy defaults from before (arial -> Deja Vu Sans,
etc.)

I'm not sure what 30-metric-aliases.conf is trying to do, but it's
definitely messing up the aliases and leading to a degraded out of the
box experience.

-- 
bad default aliasing for 'arial'
https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/203824
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