Regarding press for sale:  Michael Vaughn
Good to know about the apples.
Can you send me a email directly to my address and I'll forward you some 
photo's.  If your shipping your apples out, then this system could be good for 
you, we press and bottle ourselves, sometimes in small quanities and sometimes 
we'll go all day long.

My email is:  everettfamilyf...@comcast.net
On Nov 25, 2013, at 9:02 AM, "Fleming, William" <w...@exchange.montana.edu> 
wrote:

> Tree height in a high density orchard depends on your latitude, row width and 
> orientation i.e. N-S or E-W.
> While a short tree might be ideal if you want to go ladderless at our 
> latitude here in Montana 12 foot tall trees oriented N-S with a 14’ drive row 
> take maximum advantage of the sun.
> I’ve seen an online calculator for this but don’t recall where. My bet is 
> google knows though.
> To stop or slow down trees from growing taller I just head back to a weaker 
> side branch, hopefully one that has fruited, or you can bend down the central 
> leader to 45° or less with string once it gets to the desired height.
> I never cut the central leader till it reaches the desired height.
>  
> Bill Fleming
> Montana State University
> Western Ag Research Center
> 580 Quast Lane
> Corvallis, MT 59828
>  
> From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
> [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
> Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 10:06 PM
> To: Apple-crop discussion list
> Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management
>  
> Makes sense to me now. 
>  
> I've read that Bud 118 doesn't need support.   A question I've always had is, 
> "Why is it important to not cut the leader?"  Seems like an idea situation to 
> me would be to plant high density with root stocks that are self supporting 
> and cut the top out every year to two to control the height of the trees.  
> Another thought is that the dwarf trees are really large trees, in my mind - 
> 10+ feet.  Seems like a super dwarf that gets to about 7 feet would be idea, 
> planted a foot apart - wild thoughts...
>  
> 
> On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 7:46 PM, Steven Bibula <sbib...@maine.rr.com> wrote:
> Hugh,
>  
> What Art said, plus the idea that interstems should to provide a ultimately 
> similar orchard result as with Tall Spindle or other high density plantings, 
> with somewhat less cost per acre due to less support needed and fewer trees 
> per acre; also, the hope is to achieve longer tree life than with straight 
> dwarf rootstocks.
>  
> I have a few sloped and curving fields that don’t lend themselves to 
> post-and-wire, so I am looking for early bearing, high density alternatives.
>  
> Steven Bibula
>  
> From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
> [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
> Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 1:24 PM
> 
> To: Apple-crop discussion list
> Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management
>  
> Steven,
> Sorry for my ignorance, but why use interstems? 
>  
> 
> On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 5:55 AM, Steven Bibula <sbib...@maine.rr.com> wrote:
> I am sorry for not being clearer in my initial post.  My main question is 
> about Honeycrisp on various interstems managed with renewal pruning.  That 
> is, does anyone have experience with this.
>  
> Steven Bibula
>  
> From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
> [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
> Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 12:52 AM
> To: Apple-crop discussion list
> Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management
>  
> Rich,
> I'm curious about your location and elevation.
>  
> 
> On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett <reofar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell 
> anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases from 
> powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh, we've 
> juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the toughest 
> apple tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck
>  
> On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly <kelly...@metrocast.net> wrote:
>  
> 
> I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the 15 
> probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look 
> sometime.
>  
> Art Kelly
> Kelly Orchards
> Acton, Maine
> On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:
>  
> 
> I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I also 
> plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon 
> Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row, 
> any thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My 
> thinking: If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf, 
> maybe it is better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go 
> with fewer trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last 
> longer, need less expensive support and still be trained to a compact, U-Pick 
> friendly fruiting wall.
>  
> Steven Bibula
> Plowshares Community Farm
> 236 Sebago Lake Road
> Gorham ME 04038
> 207.239.0442
> www.plowsharesmaine.com
>  
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> _______________________________________________
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>  
> Rich Everett
>  
> Everett Family Farm
> "Fine Organics From Seed to Core"
> reofar...@gmail.com
>  
>  
>  
> 
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Rich Everett

Everett Family Farm
"Fine Organics From Seed to Core"
reofar...@gmail.com



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