Regular Lexan is less resistant to UV than acrylic, but you can keep buffing it clear. For maximum durability, Lexan HLG5<http://www.sabic-ip.com/resins/DataSheet/Internet/HTML/1002002131_1002003951_1002038253_SI.html>is hard-coated and UV-protected. http://www.sabic-ip.com/sfs/SFS/en/Product/ProductLevel2/opticalquality.html It's also really expensive.
You can get any of these materials from any decent plastics shop. Sabic is the main supplier most places. They used to be GE until the Arabs bought them. Acrylic is the generic name for Plexiglas, Lucite, Perspex, and a few other trade names. Avoid Chinese, no-name stuff. I think for most applications cast acrylic is the best choice, 3/8" is quite thick and you have more choice in tints. As long as the edges are smooth, with no nicks or notches, and any holes beveled and drilled oversize, there should be no reason for it to crack. Separating one big window into two smaller ones is a good idea. I wish I had done it. Sometimes the windows will only cost half as much because it's a much more efficient use of material. On 19 December 2012 09:29, Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net> wrote: > Jim -- I had always heard that Lexan (polycarbonate) was generally much > less resistant to UV exposure than Plexiglas (acrylic); has that improved > in recent years? > > > Fred Street -- Minneapolis > S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > > On Dec 19, 2012, at 11:06 AM, Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote: > > Just as a FYI, flame polishing will shorten the life of your windows since > it stresses the material and starts micro-crazing at the edges. My choice > for material would be bronze 3/8" cast acrylic or Lexan. Lexan is more > flexible, stronger (and about 30% more expensive) but scratches more > easily. > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC
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