Good Afternoon & Happy Weekend to All!!!
Thanks X 1000 = a thousand Thanks for your help, suggestions, hints and ideas!
My 20" iMac USB2 is now the proud owner of a 24x DVD-RW, with 2gb RAM, AND a
500gb HDD!
It was all thanks to the tremendous help from Tina and Jim!
Thanks again & thanks to all on this list!
GOD BLESS - ENJOY YOUR WEEKEND!
J R Rosen
281.467.5366
jrose...@sbcglobal.net
dillo...@armadillo-press.com
+++++++++++++++++++++++
Trust in the Lord with all your heart;
do not depend on your own understanding.
Seek His will in all you do,
and He will show you which path to take.
+++++++++++++++++++++++
Proverbs 3:5-6
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 26, 2010, at 5:51 PM, Jim Scott <jesco...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> On Aug 26, 2010, at 1:01 PM, J. R. Rosen wrote:
>
>> As far as the thermal paste, I have heard not to over-do putting it on, but
>> there needs to be enough the seat the parts together for proper cooling.
>> And to definitely not block the cooling "shafts" that are in those blocks,
>> or pads that conduct the cooling.
>>
>> The thermal paste I purchased is GELID Solutions Thermal Compound. The
>> feedback from purchasers was really good, so I chose this as it comes with a
>> little spatula to spread the compound.
>>
>> Any secrets in applying the paste to where it doesn't seep into the cooling
>> ducts? I haven't opened it up yet, waiting for the parts and the time, so I
>> don't know how big or small those duct holes are. I guess you could roll-up
>> a small piece of paper and put it in the hole, then let it expand to size,
>> then paint the paste around that. I don't know, but am open to your learned
>> suggestions.
>
> Yep, just a little dab of the thermal paste will be all you need. And don't
> worry about "cooling ducts." There's no such thing where the thermal paste is
> applied.
>
> What you will see when you take the bottom case away from the top (pull it
> gently toward you and then rotate it down from the "top", and make sure the
> optical drive door is rotated to the right about 90 degrees first) is that
> you have to disconnect a bunch of cables and wires in order to separate the
> bottom part with the logic board, etc. from the top or dome part. Note
> carefully how all those cables are routed before you start disconnecting
> them. Be warned that in your model it is difficult to remove the video cable
> from the logic board. Why? There is a black cap over the actual connector
> which keeps the connector firmly in place. It is glued to the logic board
> with sticky tape-type stuff. You have to carefully pry the black cap up and
> off the board without damaging anything around it before you can disconnect
> the video cable. My advice would be to disconnect everything *but* that video
> cable, then put a wadded up towel or something similar under the logic board
> assembly to take the stress off the video cable. You may have to rotate the
> dome part to get the right and least stressful position. You'll find that
> will give you enough space to get to everything, and you'll save yourself a
> major headache and prevent posssible damage.
>
> With the bottom of the computer resting on the towel, look at where the four
> T-15 bolts come through the bottom case. You will see that the bolts go right
> through the two pads where old thermal pads/paste/film needs to be removed
> and replaced. You will not see any "cooling ducts." You will see an enclosed
> cooling "pipe" leading from the cpu area over to both pads. That pipe is
> filled with a material that facilitates rapid transfer of heat. So don't
> worry about using anything more than a small ball of thermal paste on each
> pad. Spread it thinly until each pad surface is coated. Keep in mind that
> only a very thin coat is needed to fill the microscopic hills and valleys of
> the two mating surfaces on each pad.
>
> Enjoy!
>
> -- Jim
>
>
> --
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