On Thursday 04 December 2003 05:22 am, Charlie Mahan wrote:
> Thursday 04 December 2003 8:11 am, Ronald J. Hall wrote:
> > On Thursday 04 December 2003 09:50 am, Dan Gordon wrote:
> > >DG To check the iso's download the md5sum file from the ftp
> > > site, I dont DG remember how to use the file but it checks
> > > the iso's to verify proper DG size and stuff. I had the
> > > same problem but i got hold of a bad batch of DG cheap
> > > cd's (dont buy cheap cd's they suck) and i had only three
> > > out of DG 20 that were any good.
> > >DG
> > >DG Regards,
> > >DG Dan Gordon
> > >DG
>
> I always use "cheap" CD-R disks Dan. From the last spindle (100
> disks, CDN$38.74 incl GST) all of the "700 MB" blanks I have
> used so far were between 825 and 913 MB available space. Not
> bad for generic "700 MB High Speed (Max 48X) CD-R Media."
>
> BTW; only one coaster but that was a result of PEBCAK. ie.: the
> loose nut on the keyboard syndrome.
Can't possibly be more than 702 to 703 MB's. 'Cept for audio
CD's where 825 to 913 MB's of wav's will fit as long as the total
playing time of the wav's is =< 80 minutes. I use xmms to check
playing time. Just hi-lite all the files and the total time is
displayed. Overburn will only add about an additional 20 seconds
(and probly won't work).
Very cheap CDr's is a crap shoot. Often very good disks can be
obtained, but sometimes they're a real headache. Check for who
really makes 'em with 'cdrecord -atip dev=0,0,0' (assuming
burner is scd0). Good quality burners like Plextor will tolerate
poor CDr media better than cheap drives like LG. Even with good,
cheap CDr's tho, the problem remains that the label side coating
(where the recording is actually done) is most often very thin
and fragile. Cheap CDr's should not be used for anything you
wanna keep very long.
Brands like FujiFilm are very good, they're made by Taiyo-Uden
(the best manufacturer IMO), and only cost a little more per CDr,
but hard to find around here. Others are CMC Magnetics (good),
and Ritek (OK). I just got stuck with 200 TDK blanks ($30/100 on
sale). Salesman said they were CMC's, -atip says they're
Ritek's ;( I knew I should'a got Imation (CMC Mag's) even tho
they're $42/100.
>
> > Just md5sum <name of iso image>
> >
> > the resulting string of numbers should identically match
> > whats posted on Mandrakes' web site.
>
> When you download the ISOs also download the md5sums.asc file.
> Then use the command Ron posted but add a -c flag:
>
> md5sum -c <name of md5sums.asc file>
>
> to do a check against that "official" check file. It should
> check all the download disks. Do this before burning anything
> unless you don't have enough coasters already. <g>
>
> If you've already done the deed (burnt the disk without
> checking) put the disk in your regular read drive and use the
> following command to check. Assumes you have mkcd installed:
>
> mkcd --checkmd5 /dev/hdX where X is the drive with the install
> disk. You'll have to do that for each disk, the first method is
> faster, checks all disks, and wastes less blanks. (-;
>
> HTH
> Charlie
'md5sum /dev/scd0' is the most reliable way to check the
integrity of burned iso's. The md5sum might not match tho unless
the iso was burned with DAO (SAO). EG,
cdrecord -v -eject speed=8 dev=0,0,0 -dao <name_of>.iso
Burning at lower speeds, even 4x, is recommended for iso's. In
any event, speed should not be more than 1/2, the lower of, what
the media or burner is rated at. IMO, use of GUI programs should
be avoided. Specially iso's should be burned with the CL. It's
actually easier than with a GUI anyhow if you make an alias. EG,
alias biso='cdrecord -v -eject speed=8 dev=0,0,0 -dao'
To burn the iso you simply type 'biso name_of.iso' (just type the
first 3 or 4 letters of the iso name and hit <Tab>).
--
Tom Brinkman Corpus Christi, Texas
Want to buy your Pack or Services from MandrakeSoft?
Go to http://www.mandrakestore.com
