I'm afraid to say, I'm about to mess up Dave's brand-new numbering system
for the postings, by replying to multiple postings as I catch up to a few
digests. ;-)
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Subject: Re: Rubber Coating on N90S [v04.n135/19]
When I bought another second-hand F90, the first thing I did was spend some
time the afternoon carefully peeling away ALL of the rubber coating on the
F90 back with a pocket knife and rubbing hard with my fingers on the
already peeling back. It was starting to peel in the one corner, and I
wanted to avoid the bits of peeled rubber falling into the open camera and
making a mess of my photographs, when I open it to change film. I
suspected it to have happened before because I got black specs on my
trannies. So now both my F90 backs look like F801 backs. ;-)
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Dave mentioned :
>Aside: when using aperture priority on a body that sets
>aperture via the command dial (ick, imho), does the aperture
>stay fixed when zooming a variable-aperture zoom?
That is exactly the reason it is NOT icky. In effect you make your
variable apetures constant, since the aperture is electronically keyed in,
not mecahnically via the aperture ring on the lens. So f8 stays f8 ..
which is a HUGE benefit if you have ever tried to do studio flash
photography with a variable aperture lens. The maximum aperture does
change down though .. an f4 would change to f5.6 as you zoom, but for all
other apertures, your DIALLED-IN aperture value remains constant.
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Steve asked about getting studio quality flash with a single speedlight:
>I have a F5 / SB28 Flash and a old Nikon FA. My question is
>how can I produce studio quality (or can I) light with this
>flash? I.E. diffuser, or bouncing the flash into an umbrella.
What I do for daylight-fill-flash for weddings .. and I admit I look really
silly to others, but the results can look VERY good : I take my SB25 or
SB28 off-camera with the SC17 cord, and clip it onto an umbrella - one of
those thin diffusing ones - and I shoot through the umbrella in TTL matrix
mode. I keep the flashgun extended (as when I would put it away in my bag)
so the monitor pre-flashes don't affect my final reading - straight TTL
flash. This way I get a nice softbox effect giving a lovely soft and
diffuse fill-flash - which is flattering for any portrait taken outside.
It really looks as if I had used some kind of studio set-up outside.
It is an extremely clumsy method though, and the purists here are just
cringing, because I end up holding the flash in one hand, and the camera +
lens in the other hand. Oh .. the auto-focusing is really handy at this
point. ;-)
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Subject: "pro"-models and pop-up flash [24]
I doubt there is anyone here who can say he carries a flash on his camera
at ALL times, and that there hasn't been a time when you really could have
used that small burst of flash from a pop-up flash for some fill-flash.
Sometimes it would have been just the thing on my F90.
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>If I find myself in a position where I have to buy one [of these
>insanely overpriced] Nikon speedlights, I would be tempted to go
>for a SB27 rather than a SB28. What would I loose, anti-red eye
>and power apart?
You don't merely "lose power", you lose the ability to bounce your flash -
which would be a major loss. The SB27 is just not strong enough to bounce
the flash off any ceiling. I'd take the SB28 any day just for that - it
makes it a LOT more flexible tool than the SB27.
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Ref to Subject: Nikon in movies [25]
I'd hate to see this list turn into another inane jokes list, and I, like
everyone else, subscribed for the hard technical info, but the occasional
light-hearted comment is fine by me .. so the Nikon in the Movies postings
didn't bother me at all.
regards to all
Neil
http://www.icon.co.za/~south/
PS ... the F100 site with the photo has been taken down already.
