Hello Matthias and fellow Nikon users,
>1. From what I know the FM2n differs from the FM2 in the X-speed which
>got changed to 1/250 sec (as opposed to 1/200 sec). When did that take
>place (1983 ?) and where there any other changes made ??? (Didn't they
>also change the shutter material to aluminum ?) Are there any serial#s
>to avoid ?
The cross-over between the FM2 and FM2n occurred in stages. Of course,
the first noticeable difference was in the sync speed (from 1/200 sec to
1/250 sec). In the case of FM2, the shutter was made of titanium foil.
This feature was also evident in the earlier FM2n. I had the chance to own
such a camera. It had a N in front of the serial number on the top plate,
sync speed of 1/250 sec and titanium foil shutters. Later models (1989
onwards) used F801/N8008 shutter blinds that were made from aluminium.
If titanium shutters are what you fancy (like me), you can tell the
difference by opening the camera back and see if the shutter blades have a
honey comb pattern. Friends tell me that they have experienced or heard of
shutter problems using this titanium foil shutters but I have had 3 such
cameras (1 FM2n and 2 FA) which never gave me any problems yet.....<knock wood>.
As far as I know, there isn't an particular serial#s to avoid. For the
FM2, the sync speed is a seperate notch on the shutter speed dial (after
1/4000 sec) but in the case of FM2n, the sync speed set by choosing 1/250
sec (painted in red). In terms of handling, the FM2n layout might prove to
be less hassle, though.
>2. How does the 2/85 mm (MF) compare to the 1.8/85mm ? Which one is
>older ? Which one should I get ?
Before 35mm, Nikon used to make rangefinder (RF) cameras and the first
85/2 (I use this way of writting rather than 2/85) for RF was the lens which
Nikon's reputation was built on, thanks to David Douglas Duncan. In terms
of MF lenses, the 85/2 was the latest version as it came in the AI-S
version. The 85/1.8 pre-AI has 6 elements in 4 groups and delivered
excellent sharpness and contrast. In 1977, the 85/2 made its appearance,
had 5 elements in 5 groups but delivered reduced contrast and sharpness
(compared to the 85/1.8) at wide open aperture. However, if you're using
slower film (like Kodachrome 25 or Fuji Velvia), it is sharp (enough). The
reason for this is that the 85/2 is a lens made for portrait photographers
as the reduced contrast and sharpness is good for hiding those skin
blemishes and wrinkles.
You may decide to go with another lens that is said to be a good
compromised between the 85/2 and 85/1.8 MF...namely the AF 85/1.8 with 6
elements in 6 groups and is neither too contrasy but image quality
comparable to the first 85mm. In addition to what's said, the advantage of
choosing this lens are:
1) Enables you to upgrade to AF system without forking out more cash for lenses;
2) Smaller focusing radius (from infinity to 0.85m), thus cutting down on
time focusing;
3) Some say that AF lenses cost less than MF lenses.
Of course, the disadvantage are that the focusing is not as silky smooth
as the MF and the build is not 100% metal like the MF.
>3. For low light I'd like to get an affordable high-speed lens, any
>suggestions ? How about the 1.4/50mm ??
You must understand that any lens used at wide open is not as sharp as it
would be stopped down. Among all the fast lenses, only a few can give good
(given low light) pictures wide open. From what I know, they are:
1) AF-D 28/1.4;
2) MF 85/1.4; and
3) MF 105/1.8.
If you must shoot in low light, either use a fast film (since the grain
difference between ISO 100, 200 and 400 film is becoming narrower these
days) or long exposure. The 50mm normal lenses are one of the cheapest
focal lengths, with the exception of the Noct Nikkor. If its affordability
that is needed, why not go with 50/1.8? But be warned that there are a few
variants of the 50/1.8 around. The 50/1.8 E series were single coated and
performance is not as good as the regular Nikkors....so go for the regular
50/1.8 Nikkors. The 50/2 (AI) deserves to be looked at, too, as it performs
better than the 50/1.8 in close ups and is said to be almost perfectly
symmetrical in layout.
>4. What should I know about buying a used MD12 motor ? Any problems ?
Just make sure that (apart from cosmetics):
1) The motor drive works as it should (by attaching a camera);
2) Listen for knocks and pings (if it sounds like a dog, its probably one);
3) If buying form a shop, make sure its got a warranty (some shops sells *AS
IS* and no warranty);
4) Make sure the battery compartment is okay. Some motor drives looks okay
from outside by the battery compartment is badly corroded due to battery
leakages. This might short circuit the motor drive someday.
Hope that helped.
Regards,
Deric Soh.
