> Background: currently own N90s, SB-26,
> SB-17, (lenses don't really matter),
> decent tripod.
> Option 1 - Purchase Nikon equipment -
> probably an SB-28 along with some connector
> to get that and my SB-26 talking to my N90s.
> . . . . Which connector would I need? And, are
> their others with this setup? How does it
> work?
I've recently started playing around with this
using an SB-27, SB-16B, SC-17, and SU-4. The
SC-17 is too short, I'm going to get a 15 foot
PC cord and leave the SC-17 for use with my
stroboframe.
I quit fooling with TTL multi-flash pretty quickly.
It's more trouble than it's worth -- you need to set
the output of the two flashes independently to get
decent results. I set both flashes to manual, with
the SB-16 set to full power as the key light and
the SB-27 at reduced power for the fill (because
it's more adjustable than the SB-16B).
Given what you already own, I'd recommend that you
get a decent flash meter instead of another flash.
The SB-17 should be OK. To hook everything up, you
just need a long sync cable, and some kind of slave
sensor for the second flash (the SU-4 works fine).
The SU-4 has a tripod socket on it, you'll need an
AS-10 or something similar to attach the other flash
to the stand.
> Option 2 - Pursue other non-strobe-flash studio
> lighting. Like the Iowel Omni Light, or the
> Desisti Magin Fresnel... I'd have to do a fair amount
> of research to find out what I need, so it'd take
> longer.
> Is Option 1 good enough? Or, should I start looking
> into #2?
The biggest advantage of #2 is that you can adjust the
lights just by looking at the subject. With flash
you don't know what happened until you develop the
film (hence the popularity of Polaroid backs).
I'd look into getting some small studio strobes with
modeling lights before I switched to constant light
sources.
-Don
