Also, I have been a fan of the guys work.
His main stuff is at www.necron.com
At 07:51 PM 1/28/2001 -0600, you wrote:
>Herbet, I bet he forgot to tell you about the orange filter on
>the camera lens.
>Try this: Use Ilford FP-4 (my choice because I am familiar with
>that film and like it's tonal rendition, yours may differ). You
>will need to overexpose a stop, plus add inn the approximately
>2 stop filter factor. You should not need to over develop, but
>will need to experiment a bit to find a developing time which
>works. I haven't used a condenser enlarger for years, so I can't
>really advise you beyond saying to try the manufacturers time
>and temp for starters.
>Make-up is pretty important also. Have the model use a good
>quality light coloured foundation. I have found Marylin Mono to
>be about the best, but it is not available in Canada. My wife
>imported some from England a while back.
>The idea is to keep the contrast fairly normal, but to block up
>the skin tones a bit. I would stay away from the T-Grained
>films, especially T-Max for this sort of stuff. As a matter of
>fact, I would stay away from T-Max for most any sort of stuff.
>Hope this helps
>William Robb
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "herbet brasileiro" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: January 28, 2001 7:33 PM
>Subject: Fashion look
>
>
>> Hi guys,
>> In my photography learning experiments I'm trying to
>> make pictures with fashion look like
>> these(http://www.smallstudio.com/sds/). This guy is
>> from Italy and he claims to be just a begginner
>> although his work is really good. I contacted him and
>> he says that to get that look he overexposes the film
>> 1 stop and prints in a way to get that. But he didn't
>> get into details on how he prints. He said there's no
>> digital manipulation and the pictures were scanned
>> from actual prints.
>> I've started triying overexposing the film and
>> printing with my condenser enlarger in Ilford
>> Multigrade with filter grade 2. I've used Ilford
>> Delta100, PanF and FP4plus developed in Perceptol
>> which according to Ilford renders the finest grain.
>> He also uses TMXCN 400 and SP2 a lot, but I haven't
>> tried those.
>> My pictures look quite overexposed and contrasty but I
>> can't get the same soft look he does. My pictures are
>> contrasty, but harsh and very sharp. The little
>> wrinkles on the face show almost like cuts in the
>> skin. I've also tried printing in higher and lower
>> grades from 3 to 1. With lower grades the picture is
>> softer, but not so contrasty and punchy. The blemishes
>> and wrinkles fade but I loose the contrasty look. If
>> you look to his work you'll notice that the pictures
>> contains almost exclusively the deepest greys and the
>> clearest whites but everything together looks milky,
>> fresh and soft. Can somebody help me out!
>> Thanks,
>> Herbet.
>
>
>-
>This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe,
>go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
>visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org.
>
>
Tiger Moses
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe,
go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org.
