[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-07 Thread davep

joncourage;143925 Wrote: 
> Can you describe the pass-thru arrangement in more detail?  This is
> probably what I was getting at, but sounds like prob not available on a
> cheap amp. I'm not really following all the other stuff on
> external/active crossovers, and it seems like that may be a red
> herring...?
> 
> 

The pass-thru feature is also sometimes called loop out.  This is
included on some power amps (Musical Fidelity that I use has it on most
of their power amps).  The signal from the left output of the source
component (preamp or Transporter, etc) feeds the first power amp via a
single RCA cable.  A second RCA cable then goes from the loop out of
this 1st amp to the signal input of the second power amp.  Similarly
the right output from the source goes through the same set up with the
3rd and 4th power amps.  The 4 power amps are then connected via
speaker cable to the 4 pairs of input posts on the speakers.  This
cable can be four individual 2-core speaker cables or you can use
special bi-wiring cable which has four conductors in each bundle.

The 4 power amps do not need to be seperate monoblocs but can be a pair
of stereo power amps, as long as at least one has the loop out sockets.

Hope this helps clarify a bit.

davep


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread Skunk

T-amp can't be bridged to mono. IIRC it's due to the design of the
chip.

If only home amps were as flexible as car amps!


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread joncourage

davep;143915 Wrote: 
> Bi-amping and Bi-wiring are well known concepts that have been around a
> long time.  Both depend on having speakers designed to accept two
> inputs each. (There are some tri-wiring set-ups also I believe).  In
> one you simply run two sets of speaker cables from the L and R output
> posts on your 2-channel power amp to each speaker, and in the other you
> have a seperate power amp (either half of a stereo amp or a single
> monobloc) feeding each set of speaker posts via its own cable pair. 
> Suitably designed monoblocs have a "pass through" arrangement whereby
> the two units on each side can be connected to the single source
> output.
> 
> I have been doing bi-amping for several years using four identical
> monobloc power amps (Musical Fidelity), most recently into B&W Nautilus
> speakers.  Since the arrival last week of my Transporter I have taken
> the pre-amp out of circuit and now run the Transporter's analog outputs
> direct to the 4 power amps and on to the B&Ws. 
> 
> Sound is the best I have ever had in my own set-up and is continuing to
> delight me as I spend more time listening.
> 
> davep

Can you describe the pass-thru arrangement in more detail?  This is
probably what I was getting at, but sounds like prob not available on a
cheap amp. I'm not really following all the other stuff on
external/active crossovers, and it seems like that may be a red
herring...?

Essentially, I'd be treating the T-amp like a monobloc (now there's
another question - can the two channels of the t-amp be jumpered in
some way? would it be desirable to do that, provide more power, etc?),
so at the least you could bi-amp with 2 t-amps, but I wonder what the
cheapest entry point would be to be able to use 4 amps like you're
doing (like for instance, using a Y analog IC from the SB or DAC to 2
amps on each speaker for low/high speaker inputs, along with some way
to jumper a stereo amp into a mono amp).

Like I said at the start goofy question!


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread davep

Bi-amping and Bi-wiring are well known concepts that have been around a
long time.  Both depend on having speakers designed to accept two
inputs each. (There are some tri-wiring set-ups also I believe).  In
one you simply run two sets of speaker cables from the L and R output
posts on your 2-channel power amp to each speaker, and in the other you
have a seperate power amp (either half of a stereo amp or a single
monobloc) feeding each set of speaker posts via its own cable pair. 
Suitably designed monoblocs have a "pass through" arrangement whereby
the two units on each side can be connected to the single source
output.

I have been doing bi-amping for several years using four identical
monobloc power amps (Musical Fidelity), most recently into B&W Nautilus
speakers.  Since the arrival last week of my Transporter I have taken
the pre-amp out of circuit and now run the Transporter's analog outputs
direct to the 4 power amps and on to the B&Ws. 

Sound is the best I have ever had in my own set-up and is continuing to
delight me as I spend more time listening.

davep


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread Bob Bressler

CardinalFang;143841 Wrote: 
> To work well the active crossover would have to be closely matched to
> the drive units I would imagine, so it's not surprising in some ways
> that it was better without it.

Actually, in my case, I was using woofers by Gradient that were
designed to compliment the Quads, so their cross over should have been
correct.  Just sounded better without it.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread P Floding

Triode;143867 Wrote: 
> We can argue about the terminology, but I'd view bi amping as different
> from active speakers:
> 
> Bi amp: amp -> crossover -> speaker driver unit
> 
> Active speaker: crossover -> amp -> speaker driver unit
> 
> In the first case the crossover needs to handle the power sent to the
> speakers.  The amp sees a high impedance for the frequencies which are
> not handled by specific driver unit.  Downside is that the crossovers
> are lossy and need to use components which can handle the power.
> 
> In the second case all the crossover is done at low power and so can
> use higher quality components.  The full power of the amp is then used
> to drive the driver unit.

They are both types of bi-amping.
"Active speaker" is when you package the amplifier or ampllifiers
together with the speaker (usually hanging off the back). "Active
speaker" doesn't have to mean more than one amp per speaker, although
it usually does.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread Triode

We can argue about the terminology, but I'd view bi amping as different
from active speakers:

Bi amp: amp -> crossover -> speaker driver unit

Active speaker: crossover -> amp -> speaker driver unit

In the first case the crossover needs to handle the power sent to the
speakers.  The amp sees a high impedance for the frequencies which are
not handled by specific driver unit.  Downside is that the crossovers
are lossy and need to use components which can handle the power.

In the second case all the crossover is done at low power and so can
use higher quality components.  The full power of the amp is then used
to drive the driver unit.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread azinck3

P Floding;143846 Wrote: 
> This seems to be a very thorough writeup on bi-amping:
> 
> http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm

An interesting read.  Definitely some good info in there, but I'm
pretty confident he's wrong about having to put crossovers before the
amps for the same reason I mentioned earlier:  the passive xovers in
the speakers themselves will cause such a high impedance at the
undesired frequencies that no power will be drawn at those frequencies,
thus no duplication of amp effort.  Then again, maybe I'm wrong and have
misunderstood all these years.  It's happened before ;).


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread P Floding

joncourage;143756 Wrote: 
> If your speakers can handle bi-wiring, is it possible to bi-amp +
> vertical bi-amp? In other words two amps for each speaker, one feeding
> the hi, one feeding the low inputs.
> 
> How would you connect your source device (say it's a Squeezebox)?  A
> Y-interconnect?
> 
> If you do that, how do you figure the "output" rating (as in, "100
> watts per channel") comparable to a single stereo integrated?
> 
> Thought it might be an interesting experiment to get 4 T-amps and
> connect them this way, see how it sounds :-).  Way too much time on my
> hands.

This seems to be a very thorough writeup on bi-amping:

http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread azinck3

CardinalFang;143841 Wrote: 
> To work well the active crossover would have to be closely matched to
> the drive units I would imagine, so it's not surprising in some ways
> that it was better without it.

Agreed.  

Don't forget that the speakers already have crossovers in them. 
Indeed, the speaker designers have taken great pains to ensure they've
designed their crossovers properly for the specific drivers and
enclosures they're using.  Using the high/low binding bosts does not
bypass the internal crossovers.  Using an additional crossover
(particularly one whose effects overlap those of the speaker's
crossovers) could have a seriously detrimental effect on the sound. 
And not only for the obvious reasons--crossovers can interact in
bizarre ways (a proper explanation of which might require an audio or
electrical engineer).  If you wish to alter the crossover points you
really need to replace or bypass the internal crossovers.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread CardinalFang

Bob Bressler;143816 Wrote: 
> I used to have a pair of Quads with separate sub woofers. I did the
> bi-amp thing (identical amps) through a cross-over.  One day, as an
> experiment, I took out the cross-over and it sounded much better.
> Perhaps cross over technology is harder than it looks or maybe it
> simply didn't match the sound characteristics that I like, but it was
> better without.

To work well the active crossover would have to be closely matched to
the drive units I would imagine, so it's not surprising in some ways
that it was better without it.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread Bob Bressler

I used to have a pair of Quads with separate sub woofers. I did the
bi-amp thing (identical amps) through a cross-over.  One day, as an
experiment, I took out the cross-over and it sounded much better.
Perhaps cross over technology is harder than it looks or maybe it
simply didn't match the sound characteristics that I like, but it was
better without.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread azinck3

PhilNYC;143808 Wrote: 
> I think you also need to use identical amps if you're not using an
> active external crossover...if the amps have different gain
> characteristics, "passive biamping" will cause some imbalance in the
> sound...

Identical amps are helpful.  But if at least one of the amps has some
sort of gain adjustment then you'll be able to match them.  This is a
rudimentary "tone" control that I find to be an advantage of biamping. 
You can change the tonal balance of a speaker without having to run the
signal through additional eq or xovers.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread PhilNYC

azinck3;143795 Wrote: 
> Sorry if I was vague.  You don't connect the amps to the same terminals
> on the speaker.  You connect one amp to the "high" terminals and the
> other to the "low" terminals (I'm assuming we're talking about
> bi-ampable speakers--if not, then you'd have to disassemble the speaker
> and crossover assembly which is probably not advisable).  A bi-ampable
> speaker's "high" and "low" sections are electrically isolated from one
> another (though they typically come with jumpers to connect them for
> single-amp operation) so the amps' outputs won't be wired together. 
> The inputs to the amps are what you need to wire together.  Both amps
> for a given channel need to receive the same signal.  This can be
> accomplished numberous ways, the simplest of which is to use a y-cable.

I think you also need to use identical amps if you're not using an
active external crossover...if the amps have different gain
characteristics, "passive biamping" will cause some imbalance in the
sound...


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread azinck3

CardinalFang;143788 Wrote: 
> Are you sure about that? I thought the idea was an amp for each speaker
> driver and bypass the crossover completely. If you just hook up the two
> amps on each side to the same terminals, aren't you going to upset the
> amps? I'm not sure how a T-amp would take to  having its outputs wired
> directly to another T-amp's outputs? perhaps if you somehow did a
> push-pull arrangement it might be OK, but it's not somthing I've tried.

Sorry if I was vague.  You don't connect the amps to the same terminals
on the speaker.  You connect one amp to the "high" terminals and the
other to the "low" terminals (I'm assuming we're talking about
bi-ampable speakers--if not, then you'd have to disassemble the speaker
and crossover assembly which is probably not advisable).  A bi-ampable
speaker's "high" and "low" sections are electrically isolated from one
another (though they typically come with jumpers to connect them for
single-amp operation) so the amps' outputs won't be wired together. 
The inputs to the amps are what you need to wire together.  Both amps
for a given channel need to receive the same signal.  This can be
accomplished numberous ways, the simplest of which is to use a y-cable.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread CardinalFang

azinck3;143779 Wrote: 
> Actually, this is not necessary.  You can run precisely the same signal
> to both amps for each channel.  There are crossovers in the speakers
> themselves designed to do the job.  And don't worry that this will
> cause your amps to have to drive more of the audio band than you
> desire, thus robbing them of power--it won't.  The nature of a
> driver/crossover arrangement is that the electrical resistance outside
> of the target frequencies is very high, thus no power is drawn from the
> amp for any but the frequencies the driver/crossover arrangement is
> intended to produce.

Are you sure about that? I thought the idea was an amp for each speaker
driver and bypass the crossover completely. If you just hook up the two
amps on each side to the same terminals, aren't you going to upset the
amps? I'm not sure how a T-amp would take to  having its outputs wired
directly to another T-amp's outputs? perhaps if you somehow did a
push-pull arrangement it might be OK, but it's not somthing I've tried.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread azinck3

CardinalFang;143759 Wrote: 
> I think you'd need an active crossover to split the signal  before it
> went to your amps.

Actually, this is not necessary.  You can run precisely the same signal
to both amps for each channel.  There are crossovers in the speakers
themselves designed to do the job.  And don't worry that this will
cause your amps to have to drive more of the audio band than you
desire, thus robbing them of power--it won't.  The nature of a
driver/crossover arrangement is that the electrical resistance outside
of the target frequencies is very high, thus no power is drawn from the
amp for any but the frequencies the driver/crossover arrangement is
intended to produce.  

As proof that you can send both the highs and the lows the same signal
consider that when connecting bi-ampable speakers to a single amp you
simply connect the binding posts.  Both the "high" and the "low"
sections of the speaker receive the same signal and the crossovers sort
out the rest.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread Kyle

Thanks for the link.  I figured it was Monty Python, but I thought it
was a devil.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread CardinalFang

joncourage;143762 Wrote: 
> CardinalFang - While you always seem to be speaking from expertise and
> experience (the sharing of which, much appreciated, btw!), your avatar
> scares me.
> :-)

My favourite Monty Python sketch. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zO68fUMWx3g


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Just a goofy question

2006-10-06 Thread CardinalFang

joncourage;143756 Wrote: 
> If your speakers can handle bi-wiring, is it possible to bi-amp +
> vertical bi-amp? In other words two amps for each speaker, one feeding
> the hi, one feeding the low inputs.
> 
> How would you connect your source device (say it's a Squeezebox)?  A
> Y-interconnect?
> 
> If you do that, how do you figure the "output" rating (as in, "100
> watts per channel") comparable to a single stereo integrated?
> 
> Thought it might be an interesting experiment to get 4 T-amps and
> connect them this way, see how it sounds :-).  Way too much time on my
> hands.

I think you'd need an active crossover to split the signal  before it
went to your amps.


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