[bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages)
gt; >> Thanks! >> == >> >> - Rob >> >> >> On Fri, 2008-12-12 at 11:09 -0600, Clarence wrote: >>> It seems that some posts don't get through to me. I'm seeing >>> responses about this list being moved, but don't know anything else. >>> Would someone mind re-posting or e-mailing me separately about what's >>> going on? >>> >>> This is the only BMW list I follow and enjoy the fact that it's not >>> single model specific. >>> >>> Clarence >>> West Bend, WI >>> Search the >>> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com >>> >>> >>> __ >>> >>> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW >>> CCA. >>> >>> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >>> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >>> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >>> >> >> Search the >> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com >> >> >> __ >> >> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. >> >> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >> > -- Brett Anderson KMS - Koala Motorsport LLC (440) 564 7574 www.koalamotorsport.com www.bmwdiffs.com 9988 Kinsman Rd Novelty OH 44072 (Cleveland Area) -- Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2008 20:35:14 -0500 From: Matthew J Zekauskas To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: We have to relocate the UUC Digest - please re-subscribe... Message-ID: <49431152@internet2.edu> On 12/10/08 7:22 PM, Rob Levinson wrote: > Hey guys, > > It's been an awesome 10 years of running the UUC Digest, and for many of > those years we've been using ye olde Majordomo software courtesy of Mike > Donohue on his webserver. As this software is no longer supported, > it's a hardship on Mike to maintain it and it's only fair that we not > overstay our welcome. [snip] > Please do make the switch ASAP and start posting on the new list, this > old one on Mike's server will be terminated shortly. And, as a 9-year or so subscriber, I would like to say "Thanks, Mike!". (..and thanks, Rob, too!) --Matt, manages lots 'o lists, none about cars ...hoping this doesn't cause an avalanche of "me too" messages -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
[bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages)
tp://tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/tiretech.jsp> first, but I didn't see anything that looked like it answered my question.) -- Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 13:48:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Bob Sutterfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: tire pressure calculations Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As long as you don't change much, stick with the recommended pressure, or adjust up a little. Some cars call for 4 to 6 psi added to the rear tires to help keep the rear end in line. If you are a good driver, the front can be raised a few psi tp match. If your new tires are staggered, then you can drop the rear (larger) tire a few psi. Gary Derian Suppose I mount different size tires (e.g. a "plus zero" swap) or different size wheels and tires (e.g. "plus one" or "plus two"). My new tires now use a different volume of air to support the weight of the vehicle. How should I calculate the pressure of air to put into my new tires? -- Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 14:33:23 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Roundel Archives Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Anyone know where the magic beans are for getting a past article from the CCA site. Specifically I'm looking for Don's article in the April 19th, 2006 edition where he did a comparo on various Scan tools. Also, why does it seem that no one answers the phone at National? -Kevin --- TSMC PROPERTY This email communication (and any attachments) is proprietary information for the sole use of its intended recipient. Any unauthorized review, use or distribution by anyone other than the intended recipient is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender by replying to this email, and then delete this email and any copies of it immediately. Thank you. --- -- Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 14:59:53 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Roundel Archives Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Thu, October 30, 2008 2:33 pm, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Anyone know where the magic beans are for getting a past article from the > CCA site. Specifically I'm looking for Don's article in the April 19th, > 2006 edition where he did a comparo on various Scan tools. No "magic beans" required - looks like the on-line archive only goes back to Jan 2007. Doesn't appear to require logging in to access the issues that are there. > Also, why does it seem that no one answers the phone at National? Because you called after 5PM ET? I've had my phone calls answered when I've called during regular business hours. Jim Bassett -- Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 21:25:48 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'uuc'" Subject: Re: E28 535 water pump Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hardest part was getting the old gasket material off. I actually don't think the old pump was bad, I think the gasket just gave up the ghost. Took a bit longer to do that I hoped, 2hours instead of the 1.5 I hoped for. Marco -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KMS - Brett Anderson Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 2:41 PM To: Marco Romani; uuc Subject: Re: [UUC] E28 535 water pump Incredibly easy job. Make sure you replace the 180 degree hose that goes from pump to T/stat housing. Brett Anderson KMS Marco Romani wrote: > I need to replace the water pump on my E28 535. It looks straightforward > enough. Bentley makes it look easy. Any gotchas? > > > > Marco > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- Brett Anderson KMS - Koala Motorsport LLC (440) 564 7574 www.koalamotorsport.com www.bmwdiffs.com 9988 Kinsman Rd Novelty OH 44072 (Cleveland Area) Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.8.2/1737 - Release Date: 10/21/2008 2:10 PM -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
[bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages)
person in there failed to install it. > > Jenny Morgan > > > On Sep 21, 2008, at 2:49 PM, Kazuto Okayasu wrote: > > > John Morrissey wrote: > > > > I've seen this before. It's just the inner sleeve > separating from > > the rubber bushing. I've also seen the bushing > separate from the > > outer ring. Some damper brands (like the Konis on my > E46) put a > > big washer there so if it starts to move, it won't fall > off like in > > the pic. > >> The bottom of a rear shock in my 1997 318ti slipped > out of its > >> bushing > >> liner(?) a couple days ago: > >> > >> http://horde.net/~jwm/tishock.jpg > >> > >> I'm having my local independent shop check it out > tomorrow, but > >> I'm jonesing > >> to know whether this can be pressed back in, or will I > need to > >> replace the > >> shock? Any guess as to what could have caused this? > >> > >> john > >> > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ > > bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > > > > > __ > > > > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the > > BMW CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home > of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder > of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of > the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 07:49:58 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: 318ti rear shock slipping off lower mount Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My 96 Ti Sport had the original shocks on and the eye at the bottom was a bit smaller than the new TC Kline Koni's I put on and the original bolt looked like it could pull this stunt, so I placed a larger outside diameter heavy washer under the head of the bolt for just this reason. Dave Ellsworth New Kent, VA -Original Message- >From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Sep 21, 2008 3:54 PM >To: UUC Digest >Subject: Re: [UUC] 318ti rear shock slipping off lower mount > >I can't believe there was no large thick washer there to begin with. >I have never seen an installation that did NOT have one there. >Possibly the last person in there failed to install it. > >Jenny Morgan > > >On Sep 21, 2008, at 2:49 PM, Kazuto Okayasu wrote: > >> John Morrissey wrote: >> >> I've seen this before. It's just the inner sleeve separating from >> the rubber bushing. I've also seen the bushing separate from the >> outer ring. Some damper brands (like the Konis on my E46) put a >> big washer there so if it starts to move, it won't fall off like in >> the pic. >>> The bottom of a rear shock in my 1997 318ti slipped out of its >>> bushing >>> liner(?) a couple days ago: >>> >>> http://horde.net/~jwm/tishock.jpg >>> >>> I'm having my local independent shop check it out tomorrow, but >>> I'm jonesing >>> to know whether this can be pressed back in, or will I need to >>> replace the >>> shock? Any guess as to what could have caused this? >>> >>> john >>> >> >> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ >> bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com >> >> >> __ >> >> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the >> BMW CCA. >> >> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > >__ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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TED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com (UUC Digest) Subject: Re: MS Parts Order Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sure thing Brett, we'll get right on that. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2008 09:51:10 -0400 >From: KMS - Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: UUC >Subject: KMS Parts Order >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >17 11 1 436 381 (2) > > >Thanks > >Brett -- Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 09:36:48 -0500 From: "Bill Mitchell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Need help with mirror install Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I need to replace the outside mirror, drivers side, on my e46 M3, have the new one, but the old one won't pop out like I think it should. I'm afraid to force too much and break the adjusting mechanism. Any suggestions? Thanks, Bill Mitchell '01 530i '02 M3 -- Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 09:55:08 -0500 From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Subject: FS 1999 528iT 5 speed Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all, We are picking up our new-to-us E46 325xiTm this weekend and will be selling our E39 touring. Car is white/tan, 5 speed, sport pack and cold weather pack. New tires, radiator, water pump, thermostat, thrust arms, airbags and rear ABS sensors. Rebuilt ABS computer and VANOS seals. Everything works, but the body shows some wear including a small dent in the liftgate and a scuff on the front bumper from my wife's bobcat hunting adventure. Solid car, but slightly cosmetically challenged. Hoping for $7500. Please email me for pics which should be available Monday latest. Thanks for the WOB (and please excuse my cross posting). Regards, Paul Craven 1999 528iTm For Sale 1991 M5 2004 325xiTm Desoto, KS USA -- Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 11:00:08 -0500 From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Subject: Re: FS 1999 528iT 5 speed Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just realized I left of some critical info, the car has 148k miles. Hi all, We are picking up our new-to-us E46 325xiTm this weekend and will be selling our E39 touring. Car is white/tan, 5 speed, sport pack and cold weather pack. New tires, radiator, water pump, thermostat, thrust arms, airbags and rear ABS sensors. Rebuilt ABS computer and VANOS seals. Everything works, but the body shows some wear including a small dent in the liftgate and a scuff on the front bumper from my wife's bobcat hunting adventure. Solid car, but slightly cosmetically challenged. Hoping for $7500. Please email me for pics which should be available Monday latest. Thanks for the WOB (and please excuse my cross posting). Regards, Paul Craven 1999 528iTm For Sale 1991 M5 2004 325xiTm Desoto, KS USA -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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uot;Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Cc: Paul Craven <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Question for the X5 owners out there... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Paul: Wife's 3.0 with GM 5spd auto does a combined 19mpg or so (and I could probably eeek out another mpg by mashing the throttle less, but WTF). It's a nice car; very nimble for its size. Stay away from the 4.4 unless you need to pull a boat uphill. A good resource for X5 info is http://www.x5world.com/ - Kevin Jay '96 328is, red/tan, 106K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 78K, bone stock --- original message --- From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Question for the X5 owners out there... The Mrs. is getting closer to replacing her E39 528iT and is seriously considering an X5 because she wants AWD and I am too cheap to spring for a new 530xit or 535xit. Are there any good buyers guides out there? Also, how is the gas mileage? We would be looking for a six cylinder with a stick... -- Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 08:58:29 -0400 From: "Bill Bauman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Re: Ekstens Autoworks (was E36 M3 - Escaped smoke!) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Neil, Sorry I can't help with diagnosing your problem. I can tell you your car is in the right place. Larry Eksten and Rick Hoyt are two great guys and extremely knowledgeable. The lot usually contains BMWs and Porsches. They're the favorite shop of most of the members of the GVC chapter. Bill Bauman '04 330i ZHP Off to Ekstens soon for new rubber... -Original Message- From: Neil Maller [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 5:04 PM To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: [UUC] E36 M3 - Escaped smoke! (snip) This was clearly beyond the scope of anything I could diagnose or fix in the WGI garage. A friend and I towed the car 100 miles to Eksten Autoworks in Rochester, NY on Saturday night. They come very highly recommended: apparently they're more or less the Brett Anderson of the area. I rented a car (gutless 4-cylinder Camry, yecch!) at the airport so I could drive the 500+ miles back to Indiana. If I can figure anything out about the likely cause it'd help the guys at Eksten's, so all inputs are welcome. Neil 96 M3 - nerve damage -- Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 09:31:30 -0400 From: "John Riganati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Matt Murray'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Subject: Re: My car is taking on water Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thought I'd follow up on this. The problem does seem to have been the vapor barrier. A couple of heavy rains proved that the Gummi Pflege on the door seals was not the fix (though the rubber is nice and black now). I sealed up the vapor barrier with some 3M gasket material given to me by my local dealer. We got enough rain this past weekend to turn my driveway into a lake, but my foot well is nice and dry. John Riganati 2000 328i - dry -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Matt Murray Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 7:54 PM To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: [UUC] My car is taking on water Yes, double check the door vapor seals. Just had a little water leak on my '05 330i. That was the problem. Fortunately, covered by warranty. Matt Murray - Original Message - From: "John Riganati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I'm chasing down the exact same issue on my 2000 328, but on the passenger > side. After much time spent drowning various parts of the car with the > garden hose, I'm thinking it's the door seals. I put Gummi Pflege on all > of > the seals a couple of weekends ago and so far so good, but we haven't had > a > heavy rain to really put it to the test. > - John Riganati Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 10:44:32 -0500 From: Paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Indie shop in Cedar Rapids Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Any recomends on a shop in Cedar Rapids? I took a job here and see lots of Bimmers and a few p-cars (a 928!?!), but outside of a local used dealer that prefers german cars I can't seem to find a shop specializing in Bimmer. My 330 nneds a clutch, and my shop, tools, and best buddy Matt Groner are in Houston =( Any Suggestions? Paul Garnier FastNetworking.com 281-827-0725 -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
[bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages)
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.1/1348 - Release Date: 3/28/2008 10:58 AM -- Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 20:44:24 -0400 From: "Karl Rentler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC List" Subject: Best way to remove foam door seal? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ah it's finally not snowing and above the freezing mark... Have an 01 E38 that I am replacing the front window regulator. Got the door panel off with no problems, but the sticky goo they use on the vapor barrier seems like a PITA. I don't want to cut the barrier. Anyone have any suggestions to help with removal? Thanks Karl -- Many "concours enthusiasts" go on to be murderers. -- Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 17:52:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Karl Rentler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC List Subject: Re: Best way to remove foam door seal? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Karl Rentler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Ah it's finally not snowing and above the freezing mark... > > Have an 01 E38 that I am replacing the front window regulator. Got > the > door panel off with no problems, but the sticky goo they use on the > vapor barrier seems like a PITA. I don't want to cut the barrier. > Anyone have any suggestions to help with removal? Karl, when I replaced the bowden cable in my door I just peeled it back carefully. It's a gooey sticky mess but I didn't see any other way. I also had to remove the side impact air bag since it was in the way. The vapor barrier went back on just like I had never touched it. I also waited for a nice warm day (50 degrees is warm around here) or else all the plastic parts would've probably broken. GL, Carlos 97 540i/6 latest stupid thing to break --> the wipers (Arrg!) Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ -- Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 20:53:59 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com, CsWs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Best way to remove foam door seal? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Heat. Heat gun, radiant heater, black trash bag and a sunny day. Ed Karl Rentler wrote: > Ah it's finally not snowing and above the freezing mark... > > Have an 01 E38 that I am replacing the front window regulator. Got the > door panel off with no problems, but the sticky goo they use on the > vapor barrier seems like a PITA. I don't want to cut the barrier. > Anyone have any suggestions to help with removal? -- Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 19:57:55 -0700 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC List Subject: Re: Best way to remove foam door seal? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Karl Rentler wrote: > Ah it's finally not snowing and above the freezing mark... > > Have an 01 E38 that I am replacing the front window regulator. Got the > door panel off with no problems, but the sticky goo they use on the > vapor barrier seems like a PITA. I don't want to cut the barrier. > Anyone have any suggestions to help with removal? > If it's the same black stuff that's on my 01 E46, I've found the best way is to pull it away just a tad, then cut through the goo (between the vapor barrier and metal) with a utility/xacto knife. Colder weather would probably be advantageous for this, though you may need a little heat when putting it back so that it'll reintegrate together. Almost zero mess, and no need to reapply any new goop. -- Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Computing Support Administrative Computing Services University of California, Irvine -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
[bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages)
replying to this email, and then delete this email and any copies of it immediately. Thank you. --- -- Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 11:03:11 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Seat weld 2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Forgot to ask the follow on questions: What kind of steel makes up the frame? What type of weld is best and what rod material? -Kevin --- TSMC PROPERTY This email communication (and any attachments) are confidential and/or proprietary information for the sole use of its intended recipient. Any unauthorized review, use or distribution by anyone other than the intended recipient is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender by replying to this email, and then delete this email and any copies of it immediately. Thank you. --- -- Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 11:52:32 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Seat weld 2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Forgot to ask the follow on questions: > > What kind of steel makes up the frame? What type of weld is best and > what rod material? Production vehicle frames are MIG/spot/Laser welded. When we have to repair weld seat frames most often we use MIG welding, so that is my recommendation. Since it's a weak point I would also recommend reinforcing the area. If you can send me a picture of the tear I can make suggestions if you like. Cheers Carlos 98 M3 97 540i/6 Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs -- Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 14:56:29 -0600 From: "Paul Garnier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Carlos Lopez'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Subject: Re: Seat weld 2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Copy me please! =) E30 m3 W/busted seat too Paul Garnier FastNetworking.com 281.827.0725 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Carlos Lopez Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 1:53 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: [UUC] Seat weld 2 -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Forgot to ask the follow on questions: > > What kind of steel makes up the frame? What type of weld is best and > what rod material? Production vehicle frames are MIG/spot/Laser welded. When we have to repair weld seat frames most often we use MIG welding, so that is my recommendation. Since it's a weak point I would also recommend reinforcing the area. If you can send me a picture of the tear I can make suggestions if you like. Cheers Carlos 98 M3 97 540i/6 Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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The BMW UUC Digest Volume 4 : Issue 7 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: More on Gummi pflege? Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) GM tranny fluid change Nissan GT=R Re: Nissan GT=R Re: Nissan GT=R Re: BMW 325it, Low coolant .Advice, help needed in Bethesda local CList ad -- Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 07:45:23 -0600 From: "Bill Proud" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Subject: Re: More on Gummi pflege? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I find that the occasional rubadub with Tractor hydraulic oil ("Straight from the farm " ) keeps my doorseals soft and smth .about $30 for 5 gallons at Walmart .Lasts a lifetime ..meets SAE specs and helps build Saudi palaces . No Silly Cones were harmed in preparing this article ...or the oil BP - Original Message - From: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 12:48 PM Subject: [UUC] More on Gummi pflege? > Einzett ("1Z") is sold here in the States and appears to be silicone free > based upon my rudimentary Deutsch translation. > > Other brands available in Deutschland that are silicone free appear to be > "Sonax" and "Nigrin" > > Hans Gessert & Sohn sells "Hanseline" (images of Hansel and Gretel come to > mind . . . ) that they tout as being "with silicone" suggesting that some > consider that to be an attribute. > > Ed > > Ed MacVaugh wrote: >> I didn't write that! >> >> I believe the original BMW product was made by "einszett" and is the only >> one *not* silicone based that I have found. > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 13:58:22 + From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Bmwuucdigest" Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2008 19:20:01 To:bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) The BMW UUC Digest Volume 4 : Issue 6 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: GummiPflege Re: Substitute for Gummi pflege? Re: Substitute for Gummi pflege? Re: Substitute for Gummi pflege? More on Gummi pflege? 96 - 99 //M3, 328, 323, or 528 MAF 07 335 wper control? Re: 07 335 wper control? -- Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 21:10:42 -0600 From: "Bill Mitchell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Re: GummiPflege Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I believe BavAuto also has it. Bill > Re: Substitute for Gummi pflege? > ** GummiPflege is still available from a company called Einszett, perhaps available locally or through Pelican Parts. http://www.1z-usa.com/dealer.html http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/CARE/POR_CARE_einszt_pg10.htm - Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2008 22:36:05 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Substitute for Gummi pflege? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Shin-etsu is silicone based. Dow silicone grease is also silicone based. If you don't want the problems inherent with silicone, like fish-eyes in future paint jobs, best to stay with the original product which is silicone free. Ed david kroth wrote: > Carlos, > > Honda make a product called shin-etsu grease. From > the web: > > "Genuine Honda shin-etsu grease, for lubricating > rubber door seals. Apply sparingly, a little goes a > long way. 3.52 Ounce tube." > > Scroll down till you find it here: > > http://www.handa-accessories.com/odymaint02.html > > > > Carlos wrote: > >> After returning from vacation I find I'm in need of >> this stuff. - Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2008 22:18:17 -0800 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Substitute for Gummi pflege? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ed MacVaugh wrote: I seem to recall reading someplace that BMW Gummi Pflege was also silicone-based. The actual package doesn't indicate whether it is or not, though (I just went and looked at my mostly-unused one) > Shin-et
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>> >>> http://www.handa-accessories.com/odymaint02.html >>> >>> >>> >>> Carlos wrote: >>> >>>> After returning from vacation I find I'm in need of >>>> this stuff. -- Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2008 13:48:42 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: More on Gummi pflege? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Einzett ("1Z") is sold here in the States and appears to be silicone free based upon my rudimentary Deutsch translation. Other brands available in Deutschland that are silicone free appear to be "Sonax" and "Nigrin" Hans Gessert & Sohn sells "Hanseline" (images of Hansel and Gretel come to mind . . . ) that they tout as being "with silicone" suggesting that some consider that to be an attribute. Ed Ed MacVaugh wrote: > I didn't write that! > > I believe the original BMW product was made by "einszett" and is the > only one *not* silicone based that I have found. -- Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2008 20:26:27 -0800 From: bbarry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" Subject: 96 - 99 //M3, 328, 323, or 528 MAF Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 96 - 99 //M3, 328, 323, or 528 MAF If you offered to sell me your old takeoff last week, please reply again. The one I got cheap on EBay turned out to be bad, having a missing filament just like the old bad one. It arrived minus a screen and retaining screws. The seller is making good, but lesson relearned about buying from reputable sources, as the car is still not running right and the dyno with awaits as soon as I get a good sensor on again. tia, Barry -- Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 21:39:16 -0800 From: "Polands" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: 07 335 wper control? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As part of a school auction package I've scored the use this weekend of an '07 335xi, (dealer demo/loaner) which is an amazing piece of engineering. The turn indicators I have almost figured out, but for the life of me I can't get the wipers to stay on intermittent. I'm not sure what was wrong with dedicated detents for each setting, but I'm sure if I was younger it would make sense. No matter how gently I move the lever up, it will do one intermittent and then run constantly after the second pause. The potentiomer is set right down at the bottom. (They are saving the owner's manual for the eventual buyer, and I can't find an on-line manual). Any hints? Steve Poland '88 535is '01 330ci -- Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2008 00:45:30 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Polands <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest Subject: Re: 07 335 wper control? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> When it's raining? Or not? I don't think BMW has a model that doesn't have rain sensing wipers anymore. Brett Anderson KMS Polands wrote: > As part of a school auction package I've scored the use this weekend of > an '07 335xi, (dealer demo/loaner) which is an amazing piece of > engineering. > The turn indicators I have almost figured out, but for the life of me I > can't get the wipers to stay on intermittent. > I'm not sure what was wrong with dedicated detents for each setting, but > I'm sure if I was younger it would make sense. > No matter how gently I move the lever up, it will do one intermittent > and then run constantly after the second pause. > The potentiomer is set right down at the bottom. > (They are saving the owner's manual for the eventual buyer, and I can't > find an on-line manual). > Any hints? -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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r Loron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I pulled the following codes yesterday after the CEL came on in my 1998 > > M3. I have just put a new head on the car, and when re-assembling > > things, I noted that one of the injectors had a damaged lower o-ring. It > > was not easy to get it back into the intake manifold with the o-ring > > seated properly. Also, AFAIK, the oxygen sensors are original at 85K mi. > > > > Suggestions on what to check/change next? > > > > Thanks! > > > > -Pete > > > > > > > > > \AutoEnginuity\AutoEnginuity DTC Results 2.0 XML Template.xsl"?> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 11/21/07 05:47:41 > > > > > > BMW > > M3 > > 1998 > > > > > > > > None > > > > On > > > > P0170 > > Fuel Trim (Bank 1) > > > > > > P1188 > > Fuel Control (Bank 1 Sensor 1) > > > > > > Freeze Frame (Frame 0) for DTC P0170 > > > > Calculated Load: > > 12 % > > Coolant Temperature: > > 70 C > > > > > > Engine RPM: > > 923 r/min > > Fuel System Status Bank One: > > Closed Loop > > > > > > Fuel System Status Bank Two: > > Closed Loop > > Long Term FT B1: > > -0.78 % > > > > > > Long Term FT B2: > > -0.78 % > > Short Term FT B1: > > 24.96 % > > > > > > Short Term FT B2: > > -0.78 % > > Vehicle Speed: > > 6 km/h > > > > > > > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > > > > __ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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n the earlier E46's, like '99-'00. I think after that is when there were a few different versions. Anyway, hopefully that is clear enough. If you have one - oh, and I need to retain a functional air bag - please let me know condition/price. Thanks. Jack Money '88 M3 Racecar '99 323i DD#1 '98 740i DD#2 -- Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 12:31:12 -0500 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Jack - Elephant Motorsports <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'UUC Digest'" Subject: Re: WTB: E46 3 spoke sport steering wheel Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> beware the circa 2002 e46 three spoke wheel. looks nice, but has an "edge" on the face of the rim toword the driver. extremely uncomfortable to hold on to. try before you buy Jack - Elephant Motorsports <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I would like to find a 3 spoke sport steering wheel for my '99 323i (E46) to > replace the 4 spoke style. I know there are several 3 spoke varieties, the > one I'm looking for is the type found on the earlier E46's, like '99-'00. I > think after that is when there were a few different versions. Anyway, > hopefully that is clear enough. If you have one - oh, and I need to retain > a functional air bag - please let me know condition/price. Thanks. > > Jack Money > '88 M3 Racecar > '99 323i DD#1 > '98 740i DD#2 > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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ahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.24/1115 - Release > Date: 11/7/2007 9:21 AM > > -- Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 16:23:12 -0800 (PST) From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: E46 323 or 328 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Of course, BMW could also have a computer-controlled diff instead of a mechanically-controlled one, and you could get the best of both worlds. Don't the Acura RL, Mitsubishi Evo, and the Nissan GT-R all do something like this? Honda claims the RL can transfer 100 percent of its rear torque to the outside wheel. --Andre -- Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 20:58:31 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Andre Yew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Subject: Re: E46 323 or 328 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The RL has no rear diff, just a clutch pack to each axle. That works but no axle can overspeed the ring gear. BMW has shown similar stuff, but I don't think its in production, yet. With an open diff, one axle can overspeed when the other is braked. Whether or no that is critical to control issues is another story. Gary Derian > Of course, BMW could also have a computer-controlled diff instead of a > mechanically-controlled one, and you could get the best of both worlds. > > Don't the Acura RL, Mitsubishi Evo, and the Nissan GT-R all do something > like this? Honda claims the RL can transfer 100 percent of its rear > torque to the outside wheel. > > --Andre -- Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 20:06:00 -0800 (PST) From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: E46 323 or 328 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, 7 Nov 2007, Gary Derian wrote: > The RL has no rear diff, just a clutch pack to each axle. That works but > no axle can overspeed the ring gear. BMW has shown similar stuff, but I > don't think its in production, yet. With an open diff, one axle can > overspeed when the other is braked. Whether or no that is critical to > control issues is another story. The Wikipedia entry on SH-AWD claims that the RL has an acceleration device to do overspeed up to 5 percent: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SH-AWD I don't know what the implications are for stability control. --Andre -- Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 11:38:57 -0600 From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'UUC Digest'" Subject: Benz SL engine question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sorry for the non-BMW topic but I assume many on this list own or have owned MB's. I am purchasing a 97 500SL and the engine is ticking on the top. The local tech says that this engine is notorious for a problem with the plastic oil feed lines for the cam/valves. I guess they crush or something or other over time. I was wondering if this is something anyone has done. It seems to be a simple surgery..remove the valve covers and replace the lines. Just looking for someone who has BTDT...and has advice on whether I should attempt this or have it done by a professional. Alex Cagann -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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L PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Re: Timing Belt Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey guys , Lets not beat this long-dead horse to a pulp . THE facts are as Brett stated .it is ONLY a matter of degree ..if the belt breaks on an E30 there WILL be damage . The ONLY M20 motor I ever saw where that was NOT the case is in a 323i turbo I own which has Schnitzer-made low compression pistons with valve cutouts in them .and a KKK turbo and goes like stink and needs the extra gas tank in the trunk . Beepee - Original Message - From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 1:55 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Timing Belt > This may or may not apply directly to a 6-cylinder E30, but years ago my > sister's early '90's 4-cylinder VW GTI broke its timing belt and sustained > no engine damage. The belt failure occurred at startup or very shortly > thereafter. The mechanic that fixed the vehicle was surprised. Whether > it > is also possible for an E30 to escape damage I do not know; but, clearly > it > would be unusual. > > Stan > > >> Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 10:53:26 -0400 >> From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> >> The difference between the belt breaking at low rpm and high rpm is the >> amount of damage. low rpm means it "only" needs 6 or 8 valves. >> Breaking at high rpm means it needs an engine. >> >> Brett Anderson >> KMS >> >> >> Paul Craven wrote: >> > Hi all, >> > I am looking at rescuing an E30 convertible that has a broken timing >> > belt. I know this is an interference engine, but the seller thinks >> > that >> > if the belt broke at low rpm or during start-up, the valves may not be >> > bent. Is this possible or is a broken belt a guarantee of bent valves? >> > Also, the car has 150k miles would it be reasonable to just repair the >> > head or should the whole motor be done? > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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advance... -- Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 10:01:32 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Fastest M3 on Fleabay - just needs an engine Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yowza, I guess you'd better not be in the habit of resting your hand on the center tunnel. -Kevin This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. -- Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 13:58:00 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Paint removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> What's the best way to prep a part for paint. Specifically this is for my daughter's car which has a rear wing that needs repainting. The clear coat is shedding. Do I do a chemical peal or mechanical removal to a smooth surface or must all the layers be removed? Thanks, Kevin This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. -- Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 19:45:03 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: , <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Paint removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You need to remove everything questionable, which would be all the clear coat if that is peeling. Sanding is probably easiest for a wing. Gary Derian > > What's the best way to prep a part for paint. Specifically this is for my > daughter's car which has a rear wing that needs repainting. The clear coat > is shedding. > Do I do a chemical peal or mechanical removal to a smooth surface or must > all the layers be removed? > > Thanks, Kevin > > > > > > This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only > for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have > been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the > intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose > the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the > sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying > to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of > it. Thank you. > > > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 18:25:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: 173 DME, Magnecor wires, head gasket kit Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I'm getting rid of my E30 so my spares are for sale as well. All items are for an M20 2.5L "i" motor, you're responsible for finding out if it fits your frankenmotor or not. ;-) 173 DME w/Conforti chip - $250 Magnecor 7mm competition wires - $80 (these do work on eta engines) *you reuse your inductive pickup from #6 wire Elring head gasket kit - $85 All items plus shipping from 48197 I'm leaving for the 24hr Nelson Ledges race tomorrow evening so if I don't respond then give me a few days to catch up. Carlos Motor City Chapter 89 325i 98 M3 Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/ -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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98 M3/4 >From: "Jonathan Brush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com >To: UUCDigest >Subject: Fwd: [UUC] Insurance claim question >Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 15:52:56 -0400 > >-- Forwarded message -- >From: Jonathan Brush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Date: Aug 1, 2007 3:51 PM >Subject: Re: [UUC] Insurance claim question >To: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >When I have been in this situation, I find the best solution is to use >my own shop, who do great work and whom I trust implicitly. They >routinely go to bat for me, don't accept the "Chinese knockoff fenders >made of tin foil" solution, so I end up "whole" as Gary says. Don't >use "their shop". > >Jon Brush > >On 8/1/07, Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Of course. Everything is negotiable. They have an obligation to "make >you > > whole". > > Gary Derian > > > > > My daughter needs to have work done on her car. Front bumper cover , > > > driver's fender , driver's headlight, and slight ding on the hood. The > > > other insurance company is taking the liability for the accident. > > > She's got an estimate from one of their shops, but I'm not pleased >with > > > their intent to "bondo" the fender rather than get a new one. If I >call > > > Honda, a new factor bumper is less than their estimate of 4 hours of >labor > > > to "fix" it. And if I factor in a 40% gross margin, it's only $80 >higher. > > > Can this be argued with the at fault insurance company? > > > They are also quoting a reconditioned headlight, what ever that is. > > > > > > > > > -Kevin > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only > > > for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have > > > been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the > > > intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose > > > the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the > > > sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying > > > to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of > > > it. Thank you. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Search the >ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > > > > > > > >__ > > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW >CCA. > > > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > Search the >ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > > > > >__ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW >CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > >__ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com _ Local listings, incredible imagery, and driving directions - all in one place! http://maps.live.com/?wip=69&FORM=MGAC01 -- Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 19:57:55 -0500 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: , "Kazuto Okayasu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Subject: Re: Soft socket Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I buy from both every week. Jon __ Jon Siccardi - DM #053 TreehouseRacing.com M50conversion.com 615.333.9118 __ - Original Message - From: "Jason Kay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Kazuto Okayasu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 1:02 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Soft socket >> At 10:26 AM 7/31/2007, Jason Kay wrote: >> >> I would say the Snap-On truck fills the opposite niche that Harbor >> Freight does. :) > > And that's my point... ;) > > -Jason > '86 951 "Sparky" > '70 240Z "Dusty" > '03 325xi "Daisy" > '06 Mini CooperS > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 13:56:01 -0400 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: FW: (OT) Strategy for winning Nascar races (from the Onion Video News) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Too. Dang. Funny. NASCAR Coach Reveals Winning Strategy: 'Drive Fast' On the eve of the Sears Classic 500, legendary NASCAR coach Dan Amon shares his strategy for driving really fast in circles. Video RT - 2:41 http://www.theonion.com/content/video/nascar_coach_reveals_winning Vty, --Dennis -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The other possibility is the parking brake shoe. I have the same problem on my car but haven't had time to fix it. Try driving slowly over rough surfaces and gently pull on the parking break. If the noise goes away, I believe that is your problem. And it is very annoying Matt Bader 98 M3 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tammer Farid Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 9:30 AM To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 M3 Mystery Noise --- Chris Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I own a 95 M3 that has a strange clunking/rattling noise > coming from the passenger rear side of the car. It occurs when > driving over uneven surfaces or bumps, but typically not at highway > speed (assuming the highway is a little smoother) so in Jackson, MS with > our roads it happens a lot. I'm going to predict the noise does NOT occur when the brakes are applied. Correct? > It is driving me crazy and if anyone can help me out I > would appreciate it. I first thought it was the RSM, changed it, no > difference. Then I thought it was the rear shock, changed it, > although it was shot, no difference. I hope you replaced these parts in pairs. snip > The only thing I could possibly link it to would be that I > changed my brake rotors and pads on all four corners sometime close > to when the noise started. The spring clip on the inboard pad on the right rear, that holds the pad into the caliper piston, is probably not holding. My bet says the noise is the brake pad rattling around. -tammer some cars Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433 Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 07:39:05 -0700 From: bbarry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Chris Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: E36 M3 Mystery Noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Check for a slight bent lower control arm. I had one a few years ago. The sound was a mystery clunk/twang/doink sound. Teh small slow bump is what triggered it. Drove me nuts til I figured it out. Barry Chris Harper wrote: > All, > > I own a 95 M3 that has a strange clunking/rattling noise coming from > the passenger rear side of the car. It occurs when driving over > uneven surfaces or bumps, but typically not at highway speed (assuming > the highway is a little smoother) so in Jackson, MS with our roads it > happens a lot. It is driving me crazy and if anyone can help me out I > would appreciate it. I first thought it was the RSM, changed it, no > difference. Then I thought it was the rear shock, changed it, > although it was shot, no difference. I have taken everything out of > the trunk, spare, CD player, tail light plastic covers, plastic > panels, anything that could possibly make the noise from inside. The > only thing I could possibly link it to would be that I changed my > brake rotors and pads on all four corners sometime close to when the > noise started. Like I said it has me pulling my hair out, any help > would be appreciated. > > Thanks > > Chris > 95 M3 > Search the > -- Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 14:17:49 + (UTC) From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Re: E36 M3 Mystery Noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Another thing to try if you have a friend is to lie under the back of the car with it on the ground while someone with the trunk open grabs the sides of the trunk and shoves it from side to side. You might be better able to isolate the problem. There's another alignment adjustment arm (?!) back there that came loose on my 325. This diagnostic trick helped find it. Any other mods on the car? Aftermarket exhausts can collide with suspension components, though that's more of a baseball bat kind of klunking. The pitch of the sound will give you a hint of the size of the components impacted. Marc Plante E36 M3/4 80k Vienna, VA -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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for a car that is 10 years old and has 100k+ miles. What should I be looking for in a used one? What should I avoid? I'm assuming he's asking E38 (not E32). Any/all replies appreciated. - Kevin Jay '96 328is, red/tan, 102K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 66K, bone stock -- Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 12:51:17 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Re: what to look for in a 740il Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "I see these things everywhere and they are affordable if you can stomach $8-9k for a car that is 10 years old and has 100k+ miles." As opposed to stomaching half that cost for a clean E30 that is 20 years old, has 150K miles, originally cost maybe 25% of what the E38 costs, and delivers a bare fraction of the amenities, comfort, and performance (all perhaps except auto-x)? That E38 was approximately $70K new, and now is 1/10th the original cost. An E30 was maybe $20K new, and now is 1/5th the original cost. The traditional analysis of BMW value retention still holds true: 7-series plummet in value, 3 series retain more value than they should, and 5-series retain appropriate value. This makes 7-series a fantastic value, even taking into account higher maintenance costs - which one can directly relate to their higher content, they have more toys, and therefore more things to break. Common problems with the E38 740 fall into a few areas: 1) Cracked/broken plastic radiator neck - will continue to be a problem every 20K miles unless replacing with an all-aluminum aftermarket radiator such as from Zionsville Autosport. The problem is related to a bad hose design that has no stress relief, meaning that normal engine movement is constantly on/off tugging on the plastic neck. 2) Bad pixels in instrument cluster - BMW may or may not still be replacing these under a "goodwill" service campaign. 3) Cooked front brakes causing a front-end shimmy. The car is a bit too heavy for the original equipment brake pad material and rotor size, resulting in a common situation of melted pad deposit causing a vibration/shimmy. Replacing with fresh rotors and a good set of aftermaket pads (Hawk or Akebono Ceramic) will correct the issue. 4) If long wheelbase iL model, verify if it has SLL (load-levelling) rear dampers, and if so, that they are working properly. Repair/replacement can be expensive. Other than that, it's a car. Go through it and make sure all systems are working properly, engine/transmission operation is good, that there are no funny clunks or rattles, and perhaps most importantly, have a qualified BMW shop do a PPI with fault code checking/analysis. - Rob - Original Message - From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 8:28 AM Subject: [UUC] what to look for in a 740il > > Asking this for a friend (not on the list) > > I've fallen deeply in love with 740IL sedans. > I see these things everywhere and they are affordable if you can stomach > $8-9k for a car that is 10 years old and has 100k+ miles. > What should I be looking for in a used one? > What should I avoid? > > I'm assuming he's asking E38 (not E32). Any/all replies appreciated. > > - Kevin Jay > '96 328is, red/tan, 102K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too > '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 66K, bone stock > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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@uucdigest.com Subject: [UUC] Plugs Are the NGK BKR6EQUP's appropriate for the supercharged M3 or do I need a cooler plug? 1999 M3. Thanks, -Kevin This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Fri, 18 May 2007 14:48:31 -0700 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Plugs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 10:50 AM 5/18/2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've witnessed M54s with just Shark programming ping on stock plugs (the same NGKs), albeit on California gas. And S54s come standard with NGK 8-range plugs (DCPR8EKP), so I would think a cooler plug would be warranted, though the best bet would probably be actually reading the plugs to see what it needs. >Are the NGK BKR6EQUP's appropriate for the supercharged M3 or do I need a >cooler plug? >1999 M3. > >Thanks, >-Kevin > Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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#x27;ve skipped over that part of the various fawning reviews of the LS600hL which I've bothered to read) : http://www.lexus.com/hybridbrochure/ls_600h_l.html looks like they add the slightest bit of an interesting feature to what is otherwise a pretty classic character-less Lexus : http://www.lexus.com/hybridbrochure/images/ls_headlights.jpg Ben -- Date: Sat, 5 May 2007 16:21:48 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Chet Dawes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest Subject: 1995 M3 Coupe Curb Weight Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I just got my M3 coupe onto a set of scales for the first time. Can anyone tell me the factory published curb weights for a 1995 M3 manual transmission sunroof coupe? Car is a 5-spd manual and had heated manual sport seats. Not a LTW and not a lux. package car. I've done a few weight saving measures and have it down to 2915lbs with ~14gal of fuel (+3/4 tank but not full) and no driver. But unfortunately I don't have an original measurement of the car. The 1995 LTW M3 was listed somewhere around 3000 lbs I thought and I think the coupe M3 about 3200-ish? Thanks! Chet Dawes -- Date: Sat, 5 May 2007 23:43:10 -0500 (CDT) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: stupid flush question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ...but doesn't coolant relgion say to use distilled water? - k On Sat, 5 May 2007, Gary Derian wrote: > > Disconnect a heater hose somewhere and the lower radiator hose and reverse > flush the block with a garden hose. Remember the engine will be full of > water when you add your coolant mixture. > > Gary Derian > > > > > Here's a question I'm almost embarrassed to ask. Cooling system flush. > > When > > I was a kid, a guy installed a flushing T in a heater hose and blasted the > > system clean with a garden hose. In my E36, I drain the radiator and (if > > I > > feel like getting coolant in my hair) pull the block plug too. I don't > > see a > > way to reach the block plug in my wife's 3.0 X5. > > > > So for purposes of replenishing aging coolant, is it good enough to simply > > drain and fill the radiator every few years? Is it really necessary to > > drain > > the block too (every two years)? Is there a better way (like the old > > flushing > > T strategy from the 70s)? > > > > And is there a reason I shouldn't mix factory coolant with blue Pentosin > > (or > > is this perhaps the same product)? -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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Jason, Having recently (late 2006) gone through this I can offer some experiences. I hope your color preferences are very wide. To find a sport package 325ix manual sport wagon is hard. So if you do find one, be prepared to travel or pay a premium. My search was limited to black interiors only with only a couple exterior colors I'd entertain. Like you, I highly desired the sport package. I didn't really desire all wheel drive and I don't care for the iX wheel packages that were offered. The ride height of the ix is higher too, even with the sport package. My list of options had many 'deal breakers' 'cause I know what I like and what I don't. :) I settled on a CPO 325i sport package wagon because I found the right color combo locally on a car in great condition. Happened to be on a BMW dealer lot I trusted as a bonus. I worked them over pretty good on price and they did move significantly, but I had to do my homework to justify my offering price. It had more options than I really needed/wanted but I paid for them instead of transport fees to get some sight-unseen non-CPO car to my door. A compromise or two from my ideal car, but I couldn't be happier as the car is in great condition inside and out, etc. The Xenon lights are really nice if you do any night driving. I have an e46 with (the touring) and one without and they are worth a significant premium to me for night driving! I looked for months to find what I wanted as there just are not very many sport wagons out there with the features an enthusiast would really want. Those few that were ordered that way are still in the hands of the enthusiasts that ordered them! :) They are SO similar to the coupe/sedan that the weak points are the same. The face-lift models (2002+) usually bring more money. The 2001+ had the revised engine and feel more powerful with a steeper throttle gain. The 2003+ are SULEV certified in CA (and the same car in ever other state) and therefore suffer a few drivability differences from the earlier cars. Hope that helps. Cheers, Chet Dawes -Original Message- >From: Jason Kay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Feb 28, 2007 9:44 AM >To: UUC Digest >Subject: [UUC] buying a 3-series touring > >Hello mighty list, > >Bambi is on her last legs (the head gasket is starting to leak and the torque >converter is starting to slip... at 173,xxx miles. > >So I was starting to look at E46 Tourings, with a manual, preferably w/ sport >package, and possibly as an ix... other than actually finding one on the >dealer lot, what else should I look for (besides CPO)... are there any good >FAQs or buyers guides out there? >What are known weak points?... > >TIA! > >-Jason >'86 951 "Sparky" >'70 240Z "Dusty" >'97 Contour "Bambi" >'03 325xi "Daisy" > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > >__ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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il-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.18/586 - Release Date: 12/13/2006 6:13 PM -- Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 12:44:20 -0800 From: "Dave Heckendorf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Fwd: Issues with adding an after-market Head Unit to an E36 ('98 M3/4)? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I think I recall that there are issue(s) to be addressed as it relates to the BMW Diversity Antenna (and if you don't address it, you'll have worse that stock Radio Reception)? Also, anybody have make/model recommendations that might provide an AUX input (for an external media device, not necessarily an iPOD, via it's headphone output) while attempting to maintain a look that isn't "Lights of Vegas" cheesy (maybe even has a color that roughly matches the BMW Red/Orange)? Thx!, Dave -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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dvance. NOTICE This message and any attachment(s) are for authorized use by the intended recipient(s) only and may contain privileged or confidential information. Unless you are an intended recipient, you may not use, copy, retain, or disclose to anyone any information contained in this message and any attachment(s). If you are not an intended recipient of this message, please immediately contact the sender and delete this message and any attachment(s). -- Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 15:38:35 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Subject: Re: Need Used Cylinder Head - '97 528i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Heads can be repaired. Just make sure the shop knows what they are doing. You didn't mention where you are located. I'm sure someone could point you in the direction of a good shop. Question is - why did your head crack - overheated? Marco -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 2:59 PM To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: [UUC] Need Used Cylinder Head - '97 528i My '97 528i has been diagnosed with a cracked cylinder head. Does anyone have a used cylinder head for that engine that they want to get rid of (or know where one can be found)? The Tech working on the car said I'd be better off purchasing new rather than going used, but the price for new is beyond me. Also does anyone have any experience with having a cracked head reconditioned? I did some checking and found a machine shop that does this sort of work for the local BMW dealership and the owner indicated that about 2/3 of the cracked heads he sees are repairable - does that sound right? Any and all leads or comments are appreciated. Thanks in advance. NOTICE - This message and any attachment(s) are for authorized use by the intended recipient(s) only and may contain privileged or confidential information. Unless you are an intended recipient, you may not use, copy, retain, or disclose to anyone any information contained in this message and any attachment(s). If you are not an intended recipient of this message, please immediately contact the sender and delete this message and any attachment(s). Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.14/578 - Release Date: 12/7/2006 1:27 AM -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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--Dennis Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. http://new.mail.yahoo.com -- Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 14:04:12 -0500 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "911" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'Racing'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Ferrari List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW List" Subject: (OT) - "Police track reckless driver on YouTube" Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just keep this in mind the next time you post a video of your exploits on the web :-) Vty, --Dennis Police track reckless driver on YouTube Posted 11/30/2006 8:16 AM ET By Doug Mellgren, The Associated Press OSLO - Police took up pursuit in cyberspace after a young Norwegian posted on the Internet video of his wild car driving. Following an electronic trail that he left online, police caught him and slapped him with real-life fine $1,300. The Norwegian, identified only as a man in his early 20s, posted the video called "Driving in Norway" on Google's popular video-sharing site YouTube. The recording showed the car's speedometer hitting up to 150 miles - 240 kilometers - per hour on a public highway near Oslo. "We're touching 240," a voice could be heard saying. "We know it will do it. This is a little nice." The video was removed from the website after it made national news in Norway last week. Police said they could prove only that the man had driven an average of 86 miles per hour and based the fine, which the motorist accepted, on that speed. Norway's speed limit is as high as 62 miles per hour, though lower on most roads. "It is disturbing that young people test high speeds on highways like that, and then, on top of it, use the Net to boast about the misdeed afterward," said Morten Hassel of the district police's traffic unit. Copyright 2006 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed. -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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..shaft was really wobbling) Guibo Oil all >> driveline fluids (synthetics of course, cause it's in my garage) >> 'Prolly more stuff, but I forget as it's been so long... >> >> Car runs/idles great, no misses or hesitation, no smoke..so happy that >> I went and bought a D'Sylva e30-M42 93 Octane chip to install after >> passing emissions...AND put the 15x7 BBS Basketweaves on! >> >> Finally got it into Northern Virginia inspection, safety insp was >> obviously no problem. Emissions fail, both 15mph and 25mph dyno runs >> (I should have made a copy of the 1st report...they took it upon my >> return...more on that later). >> >> So, I'm WELL into this by now and the numbers were not even close (no >> Italian tune ups), specifically in the 25mph test...sonew DEC Cat >> and >> O2 >> sensor and happy day, right? $400 and one month later (I'll spare the >> gory details about the $17x2 bolts from the Stealer for the Center >> Resonator to Cat connection...) >> >> Here's the result of test #2, passed (barely), all dynamic >> measurements, new >> cat/O2 sensor plus all the above. I ran-in the Cat couple days prior >> with >> 1+ >> hrs of spirited Hwy and city driving. Car was hot when dropped >> off...but I suspect it sat for at least 30mins...the tech said he >> would warm it up before the test...I'm guessing he let it idle for a >> minute, saw the H20 temp at normal, and did the test, so Cat was >> hardly 'glowing' >> >> 15 MPH, 1858 RPM (1st gear) >> (Limit/Reading) >> HC ppm (153/84) >> CO% (0.61/0.08) >> NO ppm (2000/147) >> >> Looks great, right? >> >> 25 MPH, 2010 RPM (2nd gear...who drives at 2k rpm in 2nd gear in this >> car? >> No-one in their right mind right?) >> (Limit/Reading) >> HC ppm (167/158) >> CO% (0.89/0.50) >> NO ppm (1944/1921) >> >> Looks not-so-great, right? >> >> No hint of any mis-fires so why high HC? >> High NO = Lean? Intake leaks? Sticky injectors? Nothing obvious, >> unless the intake manifold gaskets are a hidden source like the S14? >> Vision inspection of the intake boot looked OK. >> Valve adjustment? Haven't done this yet, but it's time I'm thinkin >> Plug re-gap? Nah, that would effect lower speed test the same, right? >> Not enough time on new Cat burn-in? ditto as above. >> Engine is lugging like a choked pig at 2k RPM in 2nd gear and well off >> the torque curve? >> Some other strange electrical gremlin in the ignition I have yet to >> discover? Can't be, it runs great! >> >> If you've stayed with me this long, I commend you! >> >> Cheers >> >> John Grills >> NCC-BMWCCA >> 98 M3/4 (OBD-II is scarin me...and the car has been rock solid for 1.5 >> yrs now, well, there's that ABS repair that is overdue...) >> 91 318is (see above) >> 88 M3 (passes emissions with JC chip in place!) >> 87 iC (Boss's car...yes it's a 5spd!) >> >> >> Search the >> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com >> >> >> __ >> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the >> BMW CCA. >> >> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short > Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > -- Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 23:49:07 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Cc: "Steve Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Sarah Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Steven Bernstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: How to move electric seat forward if electric motors don't work? E36 325is Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm sorry but that was hilarious. I can just see Mike cutting apart his seat! Is there anything that a Sawzall can't do? Stan > Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 08:30:24 -0700 > From: Mark Gold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > Subject: Re: How to move electric seat forward if electric motors don't work? E36 325is Sawzall > On Oct 10, 2006, at 7:46 AM, Mike wrote: > > > Hi folks, > > > > I am in the process of gutting my new Spec E36 car and the > > passenger seat's > > electric motor is busted. I can't move it forward to get to the > > two bolts > > at the rear of the seat rails. Can anyone tell me a way to > > override the > > system and get the seat forward on the rails to get to those two > > bolts? > > > > Thanks, > > Mike -- Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 20:58:04 -0700 From: Mark Gold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: UUC Digest Subject: Re: How to move electric seat forward if electric motors don't work? E36 325is Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Stan, I know many folks who have used one to, um, disassemble and discard the remains of a parted out E30. Not sure if its legal, but it works in a pinch ;) Mark Gold Sacramento, CA On Oct 10, 2006, at 8:49 PM, Stan Jackson Jr. wrote: > I'm sorry but that was hilarious. I can just see Mike cutting > apart his > seat! Is there anything that a Sawzall can't do? > > Stan > > >> Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 08:30:24 -0700 >> From: Mark Gold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> To: Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com >> Subject: Re: How to move electric seat forward if electric motors >> don't > work? E36 325is > > > Sawzall > > >> On Oct 10, 2006, at 7:46 AM, Mike wrote: >> >>> Hi folks, >>> >>> I am in the process of gutting my new Spec E36 car and the >>> passenger seat's >>> electric motor is busted. I can't move it forward to get to the >>> two bolts >>> at the rear of the seat rails. Can anyone tell me a way to >>> override the >>> system and get the seat forward on the rails to get to those two >>> bolts? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Mike > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ > bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the > BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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te: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 14:07:24 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Flywheel for and E36? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Heck I might be interested in that steel one when it comes out if my dual-mass ever gives up...I am running an M3 dual-mass flywheel/clutch/preasure plate in my 318ti M44/stock gearbx setup. That was the best I could get the dealer to do when he replaced my gearbox. I don't think I want extra light aluminum with my mini-torque motor, but a bit lighter than stock and without that blood dual-mass would be nice. David Ellsworth Richmond, VA -Original Message- >From: Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Oct 5, 2006 12:33 PM >To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com >Subject: Re: [UUC] Flywheel for and E36? > >One thing you're overlooking is stack height. The dimensional requirements >within the bellhousing, specifically slave to crank plane, are different >between M50 and M30 configurations. This critically affects the ability of >the slave to engage/disengage the clutch. > >Pressing off the M50 starter ring and fitting it to the M30 flywheel is >likewise far from a simple proposition. > >Basically, if it was possible to do this, someone would have done it 15 >years ago when the first M50-equipped vehicles were released. > >As Neil pointed out, UUC already offers a perfect "direct fit" E34 M5 clutch >conversion setup for all M50/S50 series powertrains, and at a cost of at >least $100 less than a new BMW E34 flywheel: > >http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywheel/LFWLE36SH.htm > >If you're not looking for aluminum, we are about to release a steel version >with added mass specifically for turbo applications that want the M5 clutch >while still retaining drivetrain load for boost development. > >- Rob > >- Original Message - >From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: >Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 11:48 AM >Subject: Re: [UUC] Flywheel for and E36? > > >> Since it's the E34M5 flywheel Neil states is the one to use, there's no >> fundamental reason one couldn't use the early E28 M5 flywheel in place of >> the E34 M5 flywheel with the proper ring gear as Neil has pointed out. > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > >__ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 18:26:13 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Door lock mechanism Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In trying to solve the issue of why the key doesn't turn in the E30, I thought I'd also remove and inspect the door lock mechanism. However, I couldn't get the three phillips screws in the door to loosen. Any thoughts on how to do this? I think I'll try a heat gun next time and then cooling it. I also have an impact screw driver that I'll try. -Kevin This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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the cooling system is pressurised? I realise that the lubrication system is pressurised too but only when the engine is running. Just a WAG. -- Jamie Howton 2006 M Roadster 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL -- Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 09:23:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Ivan Demkovitch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: E39 540i/6 driveline issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> List, Car: 97' 540i/6 with 165k miles. Lately I have few annoying problems with driveline.. 1. Can't shift smoothly. Car jerks on every shift. Clutch was replaced by PO at 120k and flywheel resurfaced. I removed CDV and it somewhat improved situation, but still... 2. When taking off from stand still I can hear clicks under the car. One or 2 of them. This is very clear metallic sound almost like pieces of sheetmetal touch each other 3. Vibration at 75mph. Not on a steering wheel. I had suspension completely redone before and this feels like coming from a bottom - completely different from previous wheel shimmys Do I look at dual mass flywheel and driveshaft mount? What else can be a problem? Thanks, Ivan -- Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 12:50:46 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: E39 540i/6 driveline issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Not sure what prior owner did, but officially dual-mass flywheels are resurfaceable. Not sure if this is your problem, but worth keeping in mind. Do you have a flex-disk/quibo in that car? Might also want to look at engine and transmission mounts. David Ellsworth Richmond, VA -Original Message- >From: Ivan Demkovitch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Oct 2, 2006 12:23 PM >To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com >Subject: [UUC] E39 540i/6 driveline issues > >List, > >Car: 97' 540i/6 with 165k miles. > >Lately I have few annoying problems with driveline.. > >1. Can't shift smoothly. Car jerks on every shift. Clutch was replaced by PO >at 120k and flywheel resurfaced. >I removed CDV and it somewhat improved situation, but still... > >2. When taking off from stand still I can hear clicks under the car. One or 2 >of them. This is very clear metallic sound almost like pieces of sheetmetal >touch each other > >3. Vibration at 75mph. Not on a steering wheel. I had suspension completely >redone before and this feels like coming from a bottom - completely different >from previous wheel shimmys > >Do I look at dual mass flywheel and driveshaft mount? What else can be a >problem? > >Thanks, >Ivan >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > >__ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 12:16:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Alternator (e36) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Greetings all! I was wondering if anyone out there had an alternator for a 95 325i they needed to get rid of? Mine is squealing like a stuck pig and I really need to change it out. Thanks! Manuel Paredes 95 325i 245k--> WOW! LA BMWCCA __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 20:27:56 + From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: [E30] wiper malfunction Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey Gruppe: Couldn't find anything in the archives about diagnosis of this. So here it is. Car: 1987 325(e) 213xxx miles About a month ago after driving down a dusty Forest Service road, the wiper did not work. (I attempted to wash the windshield.) I had apparently left them on, and sometime within the next 90 miles they started working again. I attributed it to bumpy road and dust. (Wishful thinking.) Last night after my car had been parked under a sappy conifer, and I used the wipers to clean the windshield, they slowed down. I was hoping that it was increased friction from the sap, but I am an optimist. I'm thinking motor. Anyone else agree/disagree? I would like to have functional wipers before it starts raining everyday here in Seattle. Thanks Gilbert -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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between the in-dash CD and the iPOD, which shows up like a CD changer. I've been really happy with it - highly recommended. --SC --- Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > What iPod interface are you using? > > Ed > > Sean Cordone wrote: > > > Hi All- > > It's been awhile since I posted; I've decided to > sell > > my M3/4 and thought some on the list might be > > interested. Details are here: > > > http://picasaweb.google.com/cordone/M3Pics > > The car is in the Chicago area. Thanks for the BW, > --SC > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2006 08:57:13 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: E60 525xi low dust pads source? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm currently running Akebono Euro pads on the front of my E30 (no rear application when I bought the fronts). They're quiet, nearly dustless and have good stopping grip for a street pad. A brake pad hat trick? I have no idea if there is an E60 application or not. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 21:33:21 -0400 >From: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: >Subject: E60 525xi low dust pads source? >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Has anyone sourced a set of low dust pads for their E60 525xi? I've had >good results from Hawk Ceramics on my E38, but I guess they are not >available for the new 5ers. I find it odd that a bread and butter car like >a 5 series would not be first on the list of cars to fit in the aftermarket. > > >Andy -- Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 09:38:06 -0400 From: "DUNLAP, LARRY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Which car? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I sent this last Friday, but for some reason I am having trouble getting through to the list... Seems to be a rather slow day on the list, so this question ought to perk things up: I'm looking for a new(er) car... Easy enough. The trouble is in not knowing exactly what I want! I sold my Porsche 951 and the 318is E36. I loved both of those cars dearly, but it was time to move on to something different. The door is pretty much wide open on this one, but these are the candidates that I have been focusing on. So who's been down this road before that has some experience with: E36 M3 vs say an E46 328 or 330? Go with newer or HP? E46 323? Lots of them out there at reasonable prices... E46 vs E39? Z3 or other 3 series convertible vs Porsche Boxster? So convertible? 3 series? 5 series? M3? I don't know if I would necessarily even rule out a 7 series. The car would be used mostly for commuting and some distance trips, but I doubt I would ever use it for DE or autocrossing. I would prefer a stick, but that's not even a "must". Any input or advice to help me narrow down my choices is appreciated! -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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e-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 7/31/06 5:20 PM, Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Mayb this is unrelated, but I have noticed at least one company, Ferodo is > listing 2 seperate pad numbers for the E36/E46 front calipers. On the 325/328 > E46 they supposedly use the same caliper as the E36, yet I noticed two pad > numbers depending on which model you look at. And guess what the difference > appears to be: thickness. The one for the E46 application is a bit thicker > IIRC. RealOEM.com lists the E36 M3 rotor as being 28mm thick and the E46 328i at 22mm. If they do use the same caliper dimension and pad shape, and I have no idea about that, the reduced E46 rotor thickness would seemingly allow 2mm more friction material depth on each pad. If so this would certainly explain Matt's problem. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini- Cooper S with LSD ---------- Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 17:13:22 -0700 (GMT-07:00) From: Kirk Lachman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMW UUC Digest Subject: E46M3 radiator life? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Anyone know when the radiators on E46M3s start dying or has BMW fixed the weak neck issue that the older cars suffered from? Thx. Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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OTECTED]> To build on what inputs from Mark, Vic, and Rob: it's interesting that the writer also takes a very regional outlook in so far as contending that continuous improvement in plant emissions are a constant. In fact, in China and India they are slow or nonexistent and the growth of "dirty" coal fired plants in the PRC easily overcomes any improvements in emissions of the US or European plants. Models can be made very compelling reality is a dope slap. -Kevin This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. -- Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 15:34:32 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: PEI Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> There are a lot of Californians who would also be happy to be living without these influences. Scott Miller - native Californian raising his hand GGC BMW CCA >Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 19:24:58 -0300 >From: "Roger Langille" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: >Subject: PEI >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >8. Young pups trying to 'score a babe' are hanging fast and furious >'mufflers' on their Civics and Preludes, and installing thumpy base >speakers, and god-awful large chrome wheels - California influences with >which most of North America would likely have been happy to live without. -- Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 15:45:06 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: OBD-II Cats? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Although several people in the discussion thread mentioned problems with failing HCs, the person who replaced the DEC cat with a factory cat did not specify why his car had failed with the DEC cat. Anyway, everyone's responses have been enlightening and will give me much to share (I'll summarize, I'm not going to include every word that was posted on the subject). Thanks, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 18:31:25 -0400 >From: "Chet Dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "UUC Digest" >Subject: Re: OBD-II Cats? >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Any idea how the car failed the test? NOx, HC, CO too high? Probably had >pre-existing conditions and little to do with the catalyst unless some other >condition smoked the catalyst! > >Cheers, >Chet Dawes -- Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 09:06:44 -0400 From: "Jason Kay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: OT- emissions, was Re: [SVBC] OT- Hydrogen Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Another one of the great C&D articles was on how to improve air quality... the study reveiled that 1 car out of 10 (that is out of tune) will spit out 90% or more of the emissions of the group... the article then went on about drive-by emissions testing... If you ever have been in China or Hong Kong, you know that the air is not exactly clean there... -Jason '86 951 "Sparky" '70 240Z "Dusty" '97 Contour "Bambi" '03 325xi "Daisy" -- Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 09:25:52 -0400 From: Vic Maslanka <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Jason Kay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: OT- emissions, was Re: [SVBC] OT- Hydrogen Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> These are the gross polluters. But when CA tried to get them off the road, the public went nuts. First, "you're just trying to scrap all the classic old cars," so the auto clubs were in opposition. Including Bimwads defending their smoking 2002's. Second, you're eliminating the transportation of the poor, so a number of groups were in opposition. Everybody wants clean air, as long as they don't have to do anything about it. A corollary of transit is good, everyone else should ride it so there's more room for my SUV on the freeway. Vic At 09:06 AM 7/28/2006, Jason wrote: >Another one of the great C&D articles was on how to improve air >quality... the study reveiled that 1 car out of 10 (that is out of >tune) will spit out 90% or more of the emissions of the group... the >article then went on about drive-by emissions testing... > >If you ever have been in China or Hong Kong, you know that the air >is not exactly clean there... -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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mwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: 1995 E36 M3 Exhaust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> someone should take all these exhausts and make a version of stonehenge with them, call it art, and donate it to a museum or charge a small fee to view it... jay <- is the summer heat getting to me or what?!? [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Now it starting to show why some of us have had our stock exhausts > sitting for years. No one wants them! Even more if these available as > stock MAFs. -- Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2006 15:01:12 -0700 From: Bob Sutterfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Re: 1995 E36 M3 Exhaust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Rob Levinson wrote: > So who is going to rise to the market pressures and offer to pay someone to > take their M3 exhaust? Gotta compete, let's go, chop-chop! I had to pay someone to haul away my 320i's carcass, but I had already sold the exhaust and enough other parts that I came out ahead. So the exhaust off an E21 320i is worth more than the exhaust off an E36 M3. Woohoo! -- Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2006 21:36:31 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: 1995 E36 M3 Exhaust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hmmm...I wonder...is there any possible performance increase available for us M44 318ti folks using 96+ M3 MAF's??? David Ellsworth -Original Message- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Sent: Jul 11, 2006 5:55 PM >To: Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com >Subject: Re: [UUC] 1995 E36 M3 Exhaust > >Now it starting to show why some of us have had our stock exhausts >sitting for years. No one wants them! Even more if these available as >stock MAFs. >Barry > > >Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks wrote: > >>So who is going to rise to the market pressures and offer to pay someone to >>take their M3 exhaust? Gotta compete, let's go, chop-chop! >>- Rob >> >>- Original Message - >>From: "Matt Weimer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>To: >>Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006 5:41 PM >>Subject: [UUC] 1995 E36 M3 Exhaust >> >>>To add to the postings for 1996 and later M3 exhausts >>>for sale, I have a stock 1995 M3 exhaust available for >>>FREE. Local pick-up preferred since it would be a >>>pain to package and get to UPS. My location is in >>>Southern Indiana an hour South of Indy, an hour North >>>of Louisville and about an hour West of Cincinnati. >>>Email for more details. >>>Matt Weimer >>> >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > >__ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2006 22:13:18 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: 1995 E36 M3 Exhaust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Hmmm...I wonder...is there any possible performance increase available for us > M44 318ti folks using 96+ M3 MAF's??? > Maybe if you had headers and a custom software setup. It won't be completely bolt-on though, my guess is that you will likely need to do some cutting and welding to get the exhaust to fit. If you are doing it you can probably pick up some injectors too and get some more fuel to go with the improved airflow for not much additional money. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2006 M Roadster 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 178 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: lifts Re: lifts Re: My new lift comes this week Can't open passenger door from outside when hot Shop in Loveland, CO Re: Shop in Loveland, CO Re: Shop in Loveland, CO Re: Shop in Loveland, CO -- Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 21:58:57 -0700 From: "Kirk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: lifts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My lift is made by Forward, supposedly a discount name for Rotary (kinda like Nitto is to Toyo). It meets the voluntary industry standard for lifts (tested to 150 percent or 200 percent of rated load or something like that). Not all of them do. Since I maybe run the lift twice a month to four times a month, depending on what the maintenance schedule is on the cars (and race schedule), I don't need a top of the line lift (but I do need a safe one). I'm very happy with my lift. It fits in my garage and works every time I need it to. Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock (comfortably resting on lift) -- Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 09:54:45 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: lifts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, June 21, 2006 9:58 pm, Kirk said: > I'm very happy with my lift. And just as happy, I'm sure, with the reaction he gets from unsuspecting guests :-) Jim Bassett -- Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 08:41:45 -0400 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com" Subject: Re: My new lift comes this week Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 6/22/06 12:20 AM, Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I seem to have stirred up a hornets nest, my apologies. It's just envy: most of us would be pathetically grateful to have our own lift at home! Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 05 Mini- Cooper S with LSD -- Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 08:55:46 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steve.Goldstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Can't open passenger door from outside when hot Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Title says it all. It works OK from the inside, or when it's cool, but above maybe 80F it just doesn't work. It's not a major problem at the moment, but if it happens to the driver's side as well I'd be a bit inconvenienced. Any suggestions? Thanks. Steve -- Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 12:19:47 -0500 From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Shop in Loveland, CO Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Anyone know of a good shop in Loveland for a pre-purchase inspection on an 850? I checked BIMRS.org and they showed a shop in Englewood which is Denver (1.5 hrs away). Thankss, Paul Craven 1993 325ic 1999 528iT Future 8? -- Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 10:49:29 -0700 From: Bob Sutterfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Cc: Paul Craven <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Shop in Loveland, CO Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On 6/22/06 10:19 AM, "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Anyone know of a good shop in Loveland for a pre-purchase inspection on > an 850? I checked BIMRS.org and they showed a shop in Englewood which > is Denver (1.5 hrs away). <http://bimmerhaus.com> in Broomfield is the best in the region. See also the advertisers in <http://rmcbmwcca.org/Newsletter/MSR2006-05.pdf>, particularly <http://poudresportscar.com> in nearby Fort Collins. -- Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 11:52:41 -0700 From: Rex Tener <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Cc: Rex Tener <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Shop in Loveland, CO Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 10:19 AM 6/22/2006, Paul Craven wrote: >Anyone know of a good shop in Loveland for a pre-purchase inspection on >an 850? I checked BIMRS.org and they showed a shop in Englewood which >is Denver (1.5 hrs away). There is BimmerHaus in Broomfield, which is about 45 miles from Loveland. <http://www.bimmerhaus.com/> I have known those guys since they had real day jobs. :-) Rex -- Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 16:34:50 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com, Rex Tener <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Shop in Loveland, CO Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Someone *paid* Tunnell?!? :^) Matt Murray - Original Message ----- From: Rex Tener <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > There is BimmerHaus in Broomfield, which is about 45 miles from > Loveland. > <http://www.bimmerhaus.com/> > > I have known those guys since they had real day jobs. :-) > > Rex -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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ssage-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks for the information; it has been very useful. I'm toying with the idea of a 3.91 diff, which would be a 13% higher ratio. That would change my 80-mph engine speed from about 3000 rpm to some 3400 rpm. 4.10 would get it it to about 3500. I wonder if the fuel economy will also be 13% worse... I just read some place that you only have to change the differential cover to make an E30 diff work on an E24/E28. Do you know if this information is correct? Thanks very much for the help. David Morales 85 635CSi 85 535i 85 318i 87 Alfa Romeo Milano Gold On 5/15/06 8:55 PM, "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > David asks >> My 1985 635CSi needs a new differential. I have an open differential from an >> 1985 E28 535i, which I was thinking of using, and which has a 3.25:1 ratio, >> but it appears that this is a lower ratio than what was used on the 635s. >> Unfortunately, the differential on the 635 is missing the tag that would >> tell me what I have. What was the ratio for the standard differential on the >> 85 635? If the spare differential I have is too tall, I9ll be shopping for a >> limited slip diff. Will the differential from an E30 work (for example, can >> it handle the torque)? And what would be a nice ratio that will give me >> somewhat better acceleration but keep the engine speed at a reasonable RPM >> at highway speeds? Thanks for your help! > > I think E30 6 cylinder cars (and M3) use the same diff internals as E28 > and E24 (not M6 though I don't think). Case is different, so you have to > swap internals from E30 case to E24 case. > > looking at the ETK it seems that > E24 635/633 3.46 > E24 M6 3.91 > E28 535i 3.25 > > So yes, it seems like the 535i ratio is too lazy for your needs. > > There was an article in E30s and differential swapping in European Car a > few years ago.. I've found a copy here: http://www.e30eta.com/ecdiff.htm > > It has a nice table of diff's, ratios, and where they fit relating to > E30s. A common-as-dirt diff for E30 is 3.73 which would give you a small > boost in performance without causing any problems with too high rpm. > > (I put a 4.10 in my E30 instead of the 3.73 and it works great! about > 500rpm higher at cruise, which is no big deal) > > > Chris Pawlowicz > '89 325iT > '89 325i > '99 Z3 2.8 > '97 F650 > -- Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 16:26:57 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Cc: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: e24 differential Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> E28-E30 swaps for the medium sized case (the one in E30 325/M3 cars, E28 525, 528, 535 cars, E24 630, 633, and 635 cars), require both the cover and output (side shafts) flange exchange. Very doable in a driveway. IF you can swap the units, youcan swap the pieces. Ed David Morales wrote: >Thanks for the information; it has been very useful. I'm toying with the >idea of a 3.91 diff, which would be a 13% higher ratio. That would change my >80-mph engine speed from about 3000 rpm to some 3400 rpm. 4.10 would get it >it to about 3500. I wonder if the fuel economy will also be 13% worse... > >I just read some place that you only have to change the differential cover >to make an E30 diff work on an E24/E28. Do you know if this information is >correct? > >Thanks very much for the help. > >David Morales >85 635CSi >85 535i >85 318i >87 Alfa Romeo Milano Gold > > > >On 5/15/06 8:55 PM, "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > >>David asks >> >> >>>My 1985 635CSi needs a new differential. I have an open differential from an >>>1985 E28 535i, which I was thinking of using, and which has a 3.25:1 ratio, >>>but it appears that this is a lower ratio than what was used on the 635s. >>>Unfortunately, the differential on the 635 is missing the tag that would >>>tell me what I have. What was the ratio for the standard differential on the >>>85 635? If the spare differential I have is too tall, I9ll be shopping for a >>>limited slip diff. Will the differential from an E30 work (for example, can >>>it handle the torque)? And what would be a nice ratio that will give me >>>somewhat better acceleration but keep the engine speed at a reasonable RPM >>>at highway speeds? Thanks for your help! >>> >>> >>I think E30 6 cylinder cars (and M3) use the same diff internals as E28 >>and E24 (not M6 though I don't think). Case is different, so you have to >>swap internals from E30 case to E24 case. >> >> -- Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 09:07:09 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Plugs and wires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> But what will Rob use in the mean time?:^) Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 18:20:23 -0700 >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: John Peacock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com >Subject: Re: Plugs and wires >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Instead of a CAI, try Rob's Viper Airbox. It is an actual airbox with >internal cup filter. >Barry > > -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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m) 5-speed models suffer from the same shift detent issue as E36 M3 - self centering stops working. 6-speed models began in '04 along with a facelift and headlight upgrade options, but those models get priced higher, understandably. The PP specifically came with the alcantara upholstery - I know plenty of guys that would swap leather seats in a hearbeat for the alcantara. - Rob - Original Message - From: "Mr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 2:09 PM Subject: [UUC] Looking for a 330i Greetings all! I'm looking to purchase a 330i and was wondering if there are any certain model years I should steer clear of. Are there any problems some of these come with that are common? I'm liking the performance package option but can't seem to find many with leather. Was that an option for the PP? Any comments are appreciated!! TIA! Manuel Paredes 95 325i (235k) Soon to be traded in L.A. BMCCA __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.4/319 - Release Date: 4/19/2006 -- Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 12:04:37 -0700 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Looking for a 330i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 11:09 AM 4/20/2006, Mr wrote: MY01 E46s in general suffer from the most widespread issues, though hopefully most of them have been fixed by now (I have a 01, as do several friends, so I've seen them all). All years have some common problems, though the only catastrophic one is rear floor failures (not unlike E36s). Luckily they're not that common, and TMS makes a repair/prevent kit. Performance Package started in MY03 with a 6MT only, so they didn't sell in huge quantities until slushies became available in 04. Leather was always an option on ZHPs; in fact I'd say the majority were sold that way here in SoCal. Some people have had stalling problems with ZHPs, though I'm not familiar enough with it to know if it's been resolved yet. >Greetings all! > >I'm looking to purchase a 330i and was wondering if >there are any certain model years I should steer clear >of. Are there any problems some of these come with >that are common? I'm liking the performance package >option but can't seem to find many with leather. Was >that an option for the PP? Any comments are >appreciated!! TIA! > >Manuel Paredes >95 325i (235k) Soon to be traded in >L.A. BMCCA > > >__ >Do You Yahoo!? >Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around >http://mail.yahoo.com >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > >__ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 14:42:48 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Looking for a 330i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've been happy with my 1997 332i...Usual E36 maladies apply Marc Plante Vienna, VA -- Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 15:35:45 -0400 From: Mike McLeish <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Wanted: rear window for E28 (found) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks for all the offers, Brett had one for me and was closest. -- Mike McLeish, owner Pytrus Systems, LLC [EMAIL PROTECTED] 812.249.8701 -- Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 13:53:00 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "[uucdigest]" Subject: [Fwd: Fwd: Driving in India - mesmerizing!] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> OBMWC: find the BMW(s) in this video Barry > *http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjrEQaG5jPM > * > *Aolers click here: > *YouTube - India Driving <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjrEQaG5jPM> -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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ew tires on the rear... you guessed it... the car would plow with understeer. YOu really need fresh rubber. It IS simply the most important thing on your car(to buy). I would not cheap out on tires. Everything else... ok... but not tires! take care David -- Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 15:08:27 -0700 From: Mark Gold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], UUC Digest Subject: Re: cheap-O Chinese tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> There was a time, not that long ago, when brands like Hankook and Kumho were considered cheap-O brands spotted on low-end cars like Hyundai's and Kia's, yet they've now become acceptable brands in the sports car communities. It really depends on the manufacturer and the amount of time and money they put into developing their tires. On Apr 15, 2006, at 2:38 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > In a message dated 15.04.2006 18:02:20 Westeuropäische Sommerzeit, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > The tires seem to handle fine, are round and > balanced. Handling is much improved. Perhaps Gary Derian can > enlighten us on the benefits and drawbacks of off brand tires, it > seems as though the DOT ratings are fine, I wonder if they are just > cheaper, or if there are real differences in quality? > > > > > Speaking of tires I think the one dept. where you WILL notice a > difference is in the stopping distances. With the cheapo brnads the > stopping > distances increase ALOT. > > I just saw a TV report( on German tv from Auto Motor und Sport > magazine). The > stoping distances were ALOT longer dry or wet with the cheap brand > tires. > > I also did not realize how important the age of ones tires are. Any > tire over > five year old should be replaced. You should not mix tires older > than four or > five year with new tires on either axle. They did a simple > decreasing radious > corner in the wet with a (FWD)Seat Leon. Old(5 years old!) tires on > the rear > and new tires on teh front. The car would spin. Same corner with > new tires on > the rear... you guessed it... the car would plow with understeer. > YOu really > need fresh rubber. It IS simply the most important thing on your car > (to buy). I > would not cheap out on tires. Everything else... ok... but not > tires! > > take care > David > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ > bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the > BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 02:23:24 -0400 From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Chinese Tahrs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://www.gititire.com/tiredetail.asp?tireid=75&brand=GTRADIAL&language=1 These are the $50 HR (130mph) speed rated tires I just bought. I'd have more of a problem with Chinese tires If I hadn't see all the motorcycle guys running Cheng Shin tires back since the Eighties. I notice these have the nylon cap recommended by Gary D Dave Leonard -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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t low-spec 323s came with. 323Cic/iT, all 328 and all 325s came with 300mm fronts, which require 16s. 330 and standard M3 are 325mm, with the latter running thicker rotors, and these need 17s. I had to find and buy a 17" donut when I put the 325mm units on my 325iT. Rears can be trickier from a fitment standpoint, as different models use different e-brake drum diameters, which can go as far as a difference in the trailing arms and e-brake component mounting. > > > >I am still in the market for brake and suspension goodies, so if > you got anything to sell or suggestions, feel free to contact me. > > > >David in Richmond, VA > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > >__ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 8:21:00 -0500 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Subject: Re: Silly Question - Does the ti spare clear some of the larger brakes? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have complete brakes off 330i I prolly won't use on my s50e30. Call or email me. Paul Garnier Fastnetworking.com 281-827-0725 -Original Message- From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subj: [UUC] Silly Question - Does the ti spare clear some of the larger brakes? Date: Thu Apr 13, 2006 4:32 am Size: 872 bytes To: UUC >I am still deciding and looking for brakes for my 96 ti Sport. I am pondering >using the 300MM brakes off of an e46 323i. I got to thinking, as these >require 16inch rims and the stock rim can be as small as 15 inch, will the >stock spare clear the 300MM brakes??? How about some of the bigger ones...I >have seen as high as 355MM. > >I am still in the market for brake and suspension goodies, so if you got >anything to sell or suggestions, feel free to contact me. > >David in Richmond, VA Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 10:25:48 -0500 From: "Robert Blakeney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Smithsonian Feature on Titanic Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Years ago and a short time after they found the ship, Smithsonian Magazine printed a feature article on the testing of the steel with some really nice pictures of the Charpy test. I don't recall that they cooled the samples, but it was quite clear which bit of steel they were testing. The Titanic sample snapped clean off like a bit of ceramic and they did indeed blame it mostly on the sulfur content plus the cold water. "This steel would not make it anywhere near a shipyard today". The article went on to say that this helped explain why some verbal eyewitness accounts claimed "walls of water" were pouring into the ship, which never made sense with a "big nasty tear along the hull". The hull simply snapped like an egg shell. Robert Blakeney '90 535i '00 528i -- Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 16:12:14 + From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Any US owners of E30 tourings on the list? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have questions regarding how your car arrived in the country. Email me off list. Thanks. Gilbert -- Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 10:47:27 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Hot dash/center stack Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Paul, If there is no accompanying smell of insulation burning or ozone, the obvious is a heater core that's haywire in some way and getting max flow. Is the situation ameliorated in any way be putting the HVAC fan to max? -Kevin This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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se do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. -- Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2006 08:34:48 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Re: E36 M3 Performance Upgrades Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> for a most people the price would have caused a coronary. I did a bunch of the work myself so I just had some serious heartburn. Marco -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of kjk Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 8:03 AM To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: [UUC] E36 M3 Performance Upgrades Marco wrote: "My destroked S50 to 2.9L is getting ~260 at the wheels but that is with some serious work - custom pistons, cams, solid lifters, porting&polishing, ceramic coated combustion chambers, tec3. My engine builder thinks we can free up some more hp by redesigning the intake plenum and runners along with a much larger TB. It's in the works. I'm about 25hp from my 110hp/liter goal. This engine is not suitable for street driving. Lots of valve overlap, lots of lift and duration, idles at 1500rpm but runs like a scalded cat. probably some more tuning and playing with cam timing would solve the cold start and low speed issues, but it's a race motor and rarely sees under 4k rpm on the track." Marco, you forgot the part about price.;-) Kevin Kelly '91 M5 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 04:15:10 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED], bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Kw readings Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In a message dated 02.03.2006 15:41:58 Westeuropäische Normalzeit, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Horsepower is irrelevant, acceleration is what counts. 300 hp is a nice round number. 223.7 kW isn't. Gary Derian ... I agree, most dynos read in Kw. and then translate the power into Hp(SAE) or PS(DIN). But Garry I think your off alittle in your calculations. 300 Hp is more like 220.58 Kw. One Kw is equeal to 1.36Hp. ;)) Bye David Bamberg, Germany. -- Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 04:52:27 -0600 From: "Roan Low" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: , <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Power hp / ps / Kw (was Kw readings ) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gary was converting from SAE hp to Kw... Power hp: horsepower ps: stands for Pferdestärke, equivalent to hp. kW: kilowatt. 1kW = 1.34hp. EU countries such as Germany prefer to use kW. There are different methods for measuring power, test conditions such as ambient temperature, air pressure and accessory loss could be different, thus the same engine could obtain different power rating by different methods. The most commonly used methods are: EEC: European standard. Measure at 99kPa and 25°C. Rated in kW. SAE: American standard. Measure at 99kPa and 25°C. Rated in hp. 1kW = 1.341hp (SAE). DIN: German standard. Measure at 101.3kPa and 20°C. Rated in hp (ps). 1kW = 1.360hp (DIN). JIS: Japanese standard. Theoretically same as DIN, but we always find it is actually smaller. British horsepower: same as SAE. Rated in bhp (could be confused with brake horse power). In other words, 300hp (SAE) = 300bhp (British) > 300hp (DIN) > 300ps (JIS) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 03:15 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: [UUC] Kw readings In a message dated 02.03.2006 15:41:58 Westeuropäische Normalzeit, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Horsepower is irrelevant, acceleration is what counts. 300 hp is a nice round number. 223.7 kW isn't. Gary Derian ... I agree, most dynos read in Kw. and then translate the power into Hp(SAE) or PS(DIN). But Garry I think your off alittle in your calculations. 300 Hp is more like 220.58 Kw. One Kw is equeal to 1.36Hp. ;)) Bye David Bamberg, Germany. -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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get his name or the YEAR of his 6 series! He did say he was on a BMW list on the internet, and I wondered if he was on here. -- Mike McLeish, owner Pytrus Systems, LLC [EMAIL PROTECTED] 812.249.8701 -- Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 16:53:41 -0800 (PST) From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com" Subject: Front bumper reflector Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Greetings all, Does anyone have a front bumper, passenger side, clear reflector for an 02, 325ci theyd like to sell? Thanks! Manuel 95 325i L.A. BMWCCA __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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#x27;s labour > schedule, allow 4 hours. Nice, I thought it was a multiple of three??... So now it is four is it...either I am getting slower, or your estimates are getting more optimistic... Later, Rich -- Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 22:16:39 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Unloader relay Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> anyone know what it "unloads"? It's in a 95 M3, at least in my case it is... Marco -- Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 01:21:54 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: uuc Digest Subject: Re: Unloader relay Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Unloader relay kills electrical draw during starting. If position 3 of the ignition switch is engaged, power is removed from windows, radio, heat/AC system, etc. Brett Anderson KMS Marco Romani wrote: > anyone know what it "unloads"? > > It's in a 95 M3, at least in my case it is... > > Marco -- Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 22:30:29 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Re: Unloader relay Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> thanks. I always wondered what killed the power to those items. so if windows, radio, heat/ac etc. etc. is no longer present can I remove the unloader relay and all the associated wiring? if so I think I've just unraveled the Gordian knot of what remain of my wiring harness. Marco ps I love how BMW throws one fuse into that mess of wires in the drivers side splice panel. Just happens to be an ABS fuse. I also like how the instrument panel is grounded by the passengers right foot. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of KMS- Brett Anderson Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 10:22 PM To: uuc Digest Subject: Re: [UUC] Unloader relay Unloader relay kills electrical draw during starting. If position 3 of the ignition switch is engaged, power is removed from windows, radio, heat/AC system, etc. Brett Anderson KMS Marco Romani wrote: > anyone know what it "unloads"? > > It's in a 95 M3, at least in my case it is... > > Marco Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 14:49:20 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "[uucdigest]" , bmw digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Is there a calculation to convert Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio? tia, Barry -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 22:15:03 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest Subject: WTB Wrecked E60 M5 or E63 M6 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Notwithstanding the recent, dubious, vehicle on Ebay. Finders fee available for any member of these lists that can find me a complete car, preferably hit anywhere but the front. Brett Anderson KMS-Koala Motorsport www.bmwdiffs.com (440) 564 7574 9988 Kinsman Rd Novelty, OH 44072 (Near Cleveland) -- Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 08:34:53 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" Subject: Re: WTB Wrecked E60 M5 or E63 M6 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Stand in line, Koala boy. On second thought, why do that when a Chevy V-8 is available . Gary Derian > Notwithstanding the recent, dubious, vehicle on Ebay. > > Finders fee available for any member of these lists that can find me a > complete car, preferably hit anywhere but the front. > > > Brett Anderson > KMS-Koala Motorsport -- Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2006 08:50:33 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com" Subject: Re: "Woman Dispels Rumors Of Naked Auto Show Photos" Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 1/31/06 5:05 PM, "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > http://www.clickondetroit.com/news/6461863/detail.html > > Woman Dispels Rumors Of Naked Auto Show Photos > 'Danielle' Says She Did Not Undress Well that's disappointing! Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini- Cooper S with LSD! -- Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2006 12:02:39 -0800 From: "Curtis A. Ingraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Shipping & Handling Charges (was Dealing with Active Autowerks) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> This is not an opinion about the talking thermostat cover. I don't know jack about it, but AA's website description of the part is obviously a marketing statement rather than an engineering one. It's easy to underestimate the true cost of shipping & handling, especially for an occasional shipper. Here's a quick estimate for the thermostat housing, assuming a 12x10x4 inch box weighing 4 pounds insured for $40 and shipped from AA to the West Coast via UPS or FedEx ground to a business address: $ 6.49 FedEx 11.16 UPS and to a residential address: $ 8.31 FedEx 12.98 UPS Yes, it really costs a couple dollars more to ship to a residential address. Those numbers are minimums. Add $2 to $10 to have the carrier pick up the package at AA, and add a dollar or so if the shipment is arranged by phone instead of on the web. UPS/FedEx add a 'delivery address surcharge' for some addresses, typically in less frequently visited and more remote residential areas. So shipping charges paid by the shipper can easily be $12-15, not including any special delivery options or faster shipping methods. There are cheaper shipping methods (e.g. USPS), but they have disadvantages that offset the lower fees. Handling charges might include the cost of a box ($1-2), packing material, forms and labels, and labor. Many web business charge much less for 'S&H'. Their costs are the same; they are merely shifting the true charges from S&H to the product price. I think keeping the S&H charges separate as a 'S&H' fee is more transparent. Curt Ingraham, ships a few radiators Oakland, CA Kevin wrote: > Their thermostat cover claims to be forged (the other sources I believe are > cast) and the flanged part is machined flat, so I went with that one. The > order acknowledgment said $12 for shipping but they called because they > wouldn't ship it to me here at work. That's when they quoted $15 for > shipping. -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. -- Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 17:35:28 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Dealing with Active Autowerks Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >May be the last thing I ever order >from them. In 9 years of owning E36s and E30s I've never once ordered from them, what part do they sell that you had to buy from them? Just curious cuz they seem way overpriced. -Carlos (frugal errr... cheap) 98 M3 89 325i 88 325is __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 15:35:19 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: IPod polish Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> For those with the scratch problems check out: www.radtech.com/mw The price looks steep but appears to do a good job. -Kevin This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. -- Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 16:29:30 -0800 From: Mark Gold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: IPod polish Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My co-worker just purchased their Ice Creme to fix a big scratch he put in the front of his iPod. I'll let you know how well it works. Sincerely, Mark Gold Sacramento Valley Chapter BMWCCA [EMAIL PROTECTED] On 30-Jan-06, at 3:35 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > For those with the scratch problems check out: > > www.radtech.com/mw > > The price looks steep but appears to do a good job. > > > -Kevin > > > > > > > This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only > for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have > been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the > intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose > the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the > sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying > to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of > it. Thank you. > > > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ > bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __________ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the > BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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e will flicker at low settings. Most modern headunits won't fade anyway as the illumination is with LED's and below threshold they will act strangely. -Kevin This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. -- Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 20:02:15 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" Subject: E34 CD - Why does everyone like Nak? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sh!t. That'll teach me to announce my decision on the UUC Digest! I got more opinions after I decided than before. Thanks again to everyone and everyone ELSE for your comments. I'll come up with plan B. Or C. Whatever. I've lost count. Scott -- Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 06:28:23 -0500 From: "Howard Kohn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: open letter to bmwcca members in the North Atlantic region regarding the RVP election. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> This post is meant for the BMWCCA members in the North Atlantic Region. I ask for your vote in the upcoming election for the Regional Vice President position. My candidancy statement published in the January Roundel was limited to 300 words. You can view an expanded statement at the link below: http://home.nycap.rr.com/hbprkohn Please vote before the February 11 deadline. -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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;m trying to buy a Toyota Tacoma? Vin 5TEWN72N72Z109233 Email me directly @ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks in advance, David '98 M3/4/5 "looking for a Tacoma" -- Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 09:30:40 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" Subject: Seeking Audio Solutions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> (Cross-posted to E34 Yahoo group, more or less.) Just bought a '93 525iA, and in less than 2 weeks we'll be driving it to and from Southern Kahleefornya. That'll be about a 700 mile round trip, not counting the time we spend stuck in L.A. freeway traffic. The car has an original factory stereo which sounds fine, except: 1. No CD changer 2. According to wife and daughter, the tape deck does not work. I'd really like to improve this situation before our trip. Before we found out about the cassette player, I was thinking of looking for one of the two factory CD changers for the trunk. Now I'm considering a couple of options: A. Replace the head unit with an in-dash AM/FM/CD unit. Can anyone recommend a compatible unit? Bonus points for the lighting matching the BMW orangey color. B. Daughter's idea: buy an i-pod (she already has her own), load up our music and get one of those FM transmitter gizmos. Some of the transmitters don't work that well, but a friend of hers has one (costs about $100, she said) that works well. Another option: is there an adaptor thingie to plug an i-pod directly into the factory head unit? As much as the i-pod idea is appealing, I really don't have time to load up an i-pod with CDs before the trip. But it will also take time I don't have to install a new head unit, or take it to someone to install. So at this point I'm not ruling out either idea. Feedback? Suggestions? Thanks, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA -- Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 20:28:20 + From: nick brearley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Seeking Audio Solutions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 09:30 15/01/06 -0800, you wrote: >Just bought a '93 525iA, and in less than 2 weeks we'll be driving it >to and from Southern Kahleefornya. Hi Scott, If there's any way of picking up internet radio in a car (there's bound to be somebody on this list who can pronounce on this one) then http://www.pandora.com/ will take care of your needs. Second to Shazam it is one of the most jawdropping things I've come across in the music world. Enjoy the trip. Nick -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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cing.com/homepage/mdadgar -- Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 23:43:19 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Rear alignment Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Rule of thumb on rear toe, alert the pun police if you must, is more toe in = increased straight line stability, less = better reactivity. Factory spec is set by lawyers. Settings I've tried: .03 toe in, tread life on the inner edge was about 2/3 of the rest of the tire, with a reactive rear end still ok on the highway. .10 toe in, current setting, even rear tire wear, stable on high speed ramps, still good streetcorner maneuverability but not the reactivity of .03. Zero toe, tail reactivity good on high speed ramps or track turns. Not for a daily driver. Toe out, at .06 out the tail gets autocross winning reactivity, with the tradeoff of a dangerous (imho) decrease in rear end stability at speed. Barry Mark Dadgar wrote: > On Dec 27, 2005, at 9:11 PM, Marco Romani wrote: > >> I have the racecar set at zero rear toe IIRCSome people like a >> very slight bit of toe out to help rotate the car, I'm not one of them. > > I also have zero rear toe on the race car. You do NOT want toe-out in > the rear on a track or street car. Dedicated auto-x car, maybe. > Otherwise, no way. > - Mark > -- Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 09:01:16 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Rear alignment Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My E36 also has 0 toe, it is pretty much a track only car though. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL -- Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 07:07:50 -0800 (PST) From: david kroth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Oil of choice for a 2004 X3 2.5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Bailey wrote: > I'm not too eager to continue running > the BMW/Castrol oil. I'm inclined to run Mobil1 > 0W-40, as it has BMW > Longlife approval. I had excellent results using > Rotella T 5W-40 > Synthetic in my 528iA Bailey, consider an oil analysis at your next change. It's about $20 from Blackstone Labs and it may be able to tell you if there's been any early damage due to the extended change interval. If something does go wrong down the road it might be some evidence to fall back on... David Kroth [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year. http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/ -- Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 10:36:39 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Bailey Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Subject: Re: Oil of choice for a 2004 X3 2.5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Rotella has more anti-wear additives but they also can contaminate a catalyst. Those additives are most useful on a OHV pushrod engine. An OHC engine has much lower cam to tappet loads and doesn't need the additives so much. I would use the Mobil 1 0W-40. 10,000 miles is about right for synthetic oil changes. There is nothing wrong with 7500 miles if that makes you more comfortable. Gary Derian >I recently purchased an immaculate CPO X3 2.5, which I intend to keep it >for some time. I plan to heed Brett's advice and change the oil at least >every 7.5K miles. At 18K miles, the truck has only received one 15K Oil >Service, and already I've noticed a nasty brown film on the dipstick and >under the oil filler cap. Thus, I'm not too eager to continue running the >BMW/Castrol oil. I'm inclined to run Mobil1 0W-40, as it has BMW Longlife >approval. I had excellent results using Rotella T 5W-40 Synthetic in my >528iA(130K miles and less than 1 qt used between 7.5 K changes), but I >think I'll wait to use it until the truck is out of warranty. Any other >suggestions or tips? Thanks in advance! > > Bailey Taylor > 1995 318ti Club Sport > 2004 X3 2.5 > 1999 Wrangler Sahara Light Campaign Assault Vehicle > 1996 Triumph Speed Triple > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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stallation tips. > Remove the rear cover and clean out the inside of the diff, then > replace the diff cover gasket. Refill with Redline 70w90. If you have > an lsd, check for broken bolt heads on the cap of the lsd unit. > Clean off the subframe and diff housing. Spray a few coats of > black Rustoleum on all the areas of the subframe where the paint has > chipped off. I hadn't thought about cracking open the diff, but probably a good idea to change the fluid and inspect things while it's out. > Also, you'll save lots of $$ on machine shop costs with urethane > since it is installable by hand but OEM rubber subframe bushings need > pressing. Good to know. I hadn't considered that factor. > To avoid a 9 out of ten bitch factor if doing it oneself, I > brought the subframe and diff cover to Dinan (aroudn the corner, and > their shop really is well equipped) to press the seven old bushings out, > they charged 1.25 hours and did a clean professional job using proper > equipment. If I had opted for new OEM bushings, the cost to press them > in would have been more than twice as much. I can get access to a press. I'll see if I can rent the correct fittings, maybe from Brett A.? > Spray paint over the RTAB cup bolts and the floor around them. > This gives a good ballpark estimate where to position them on reassembly. > Torque everything properly. I know I'm a torque wrench freak but > seriously, take the time to do this!! I'll send you a list of the > factory torque specs as listed in the TIS. > Only tools to be sure you have which a standard toobox may not, are > 18mm box and 1/2" socket wrenches, a torx head socket for the halfshaft > nuts, a "water pump pliers" size channel lock to makes pressing the > sleeves into the new bushings go easier, two (one spare) new hack saw > blades for sawing out the old RTAB sleeves, and a 1/2 drive torque > wrench. I like the clicker type for working in close quarters. > Based on the results after a few days of driving, and since I need > to do a realignment anyway, I've ordered urethane RTABS to replace the > 70kmile old OEM ones that have GC shims installed with them. With > everything else snug now I feel sideplay from the RTABs that I hadn't > noticed before. For your front end, go with the factory offset rubber > //M3 LCABs, > or better yet, get the Ireland Eyeball arms. I'll probably stick with stock. I'm not looking for additional camber. It's my daily driver and I don't want to trade increased tire wear for slightly better cornering that I'm not going to be using 99% of the time. > New upper strut mounts should be '96-99 //M3 parts, unless the prices > are more than a good set of adjustables. The old ones seemed OK so I reused them when I did the struts. I don't really need adjustability. > Hth, > Barry It does! I appreciate your taking the time to give such a detailed response. Thanks, Brian > > Brian Daley wrote: > >> I have a 94 325ic with about 150K miles on it. I'm pretty sure all of >> the suspension bushings, etc. are original and they're really sloppy >> at this point. I replaced the springs and shocks/struts about a year >> ago, so I figure all new bushings should put things back as they >> should be. My question is this: Which bushings do people typically >> replace? This car will never see a track, so I'm assuming stock-type >> rubber bushings are the best option for me. I assume that urethane >> would only amplify the shakes and rattles that the convertible already >> suffers from. True? >> 7) What special tools are required for the installation? >> I know that's a lot of questions, thanks for sharing any experience >> you may have. >> Brian >> '94 325ic > -- Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2005 00:20:19 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: [Fwd: E36 Suspension Freshening Questions] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brian, Wrt rear subframe mount bushing washers and swaybar bushings: The swaybar bushings are made by Powerflex. They also make several sizes for the front bar. http://www.powerflex.co.uk/products.asp?cat=0003&catalog=0203&submit1.x=33&submit1.y=11&submit1=GO Bimmerworld will order them for you though they don't stock or list them on their website. For subframe bushing washers, the front Powerflex comes with four washers, one each for above and below, the rear come with only two, for below the bushings. Bimmerworld recommended washers above too. These washers have a larger centerhole than the OEM washers, not sure why. For snugger bushings seating, I hammered the original bowl shaped bushings washers flat. This made the center hole just large enough for the bolt. If the hole hammers too small drive a tapered drift punch through it to open the hole up again. I installed one of these first above each bushing. For diff bushings, I suggest delrin since these bushings in urethane will have too much sleeve for a smallish amount of urethane to flex compared to RTAB, subframe, and other suspension bushings. Previous BMW series' bolted the diff directly into the subframe, no bushings in between. Delrin is not flexible, and in looking at how the sleeve was half torn out of the rubber in my original diff cover bushings, it seemed the better choice. My tolerance for NVH is more than people who prefer stock exhausts would agree with, but I love a smooth calm ride. Urethane will transmit more vibration than OE rubber, but that doesn't have to translate into a harsher ride. Hth, Barry Brian Daley wrote: > > -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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;m not sure what to check without a code, but to be honest, I've never gotten a stomp test to work for me. But I assume the code check showing me a is enough. Any suggestions on what to do next? The car is running fine, so should I just ignore it? TIA, Doug -- Date: Wed, 07 Dec 2005 22:15:09 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Oiling ITG Filter? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Finally got an ITG filter for my E36, which came equipped with an ECIS when my wife bought it. I have a can of K&N filter oil. Is that OK for the ITG foam filter? If not does anyone have a recommended source for the right Oil? Thanks Marc Plante 1997 E36 M3/4 Vienna, VA -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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eed auto in the 530, and the extra ponies indicate it could > take an additional 300# payload penalty over it's 120# extra weight and > still have a slightly superior Hp/weight ratio. What say the experts? > Positives, negatives, gotchas... any input is appreciated - My 533i only > SEEMS like it's going to last forever and I need some load carrying > capability. > Thanks, Tom Walrod Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2005 07:34:41 -0800 From: "Bob Sutterfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "bmw digest" Subject: Re: carfax request por favor, Colorado questions, V8 vs I6 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Tom Walrod wrote: > Located south of Denver - So is this a salt zone > or does Colorado depend on "sand". Colorado generally uses cinders or sand. Occasionally the cities use a non-NaCl chemical pre-treatment if they can get it on the roads in advance of a snowfall. -- Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 20:14:27 -0800 (PST) From: Justin Weese <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest Subject: NE Ohio - I need a used e30 passenger side fender Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Doesn't matter what color. I'm in Akron, Ohio. Please e-mail me directly if you are local and have one for cheap: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks, Justin Weese __ Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page! http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs -- Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 23:56:58 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: E30 Fender Install Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Going to replace a wrecked fender on an E30does the front of the fender have to be welded to the core support (like an '02)?...or is it bolted? I assume the rear of the fender is held on by screws right? Going to attempt a temporary fix over the winter on a wrecked E30 fender. Thanks for any advice, John Weese ---------- Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2005 15:20:17 -0500 From: John Grills <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: looking for a e36 17x7.5 wheel Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gruppe: I need a spare for my e36 M3/4 any one got one laying around? cheers John Grills NCC BMWCCA 98 M3/4 88 M3 87 iC -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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his 1995 355 Challenge STOLEN in New Hampshire, NH plate "Anglina". Please keep your eyes open! It is a Tommy Hilfiger team car (one of three), pics below. It has an open exhaust and is very loud. Can't imagine what someone is going to do with it, other than take it for a joy ride. If they try to part it out, please let me know (mysteriously low prices on 355 parts, especially Challenge parts). Alas, the third possibility is that it's in a shipping container going to Latin America or the Middle East or Eastern Europe. Damn. Pictures are here: http://www.photoworks.com/share/shareLanding.jsp?shareCode=A6EE322BED1&cb=PW Thanks. --Dennis Spam detection software, running on the system "host.bard.net", has identified this incoming email as possible spam. The original message has been attached to this so you can view it (if it isn't spam) or block similar future email. If you have any questions, see [EMAIL PROTECTED] for details. Content preview: [tried to send last night, but got bounced by filter] http://cbs4boston.com/topstories/local_story_305123235.html UPDATE: WBZ Channel 4 news in Boston ran a piece on the stolen 355 Challenge tonight, at the beginning of the 11 pm newscast (must have been a *really* slow news day). PLEASE do keep your eyes open - you never know where or when it might turn up! [...] Content analysis details: (5.5 points, 5.0 required) pts rule name description -- -- 1.5 X_PRIORITY_HIGHSent with 'X-Priority' set to high 0.5 X_MSMAIL_PRIORITY_HIGH Sent with 'X-Msmail-Priority' set to high 1.0 BigEvilList_133BODY: Generated BigEvilList_133 2.5 CP_RANDOMWORD_10 BODY: string of 10+ random words -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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Subject: 90 525iA engine missing All, The 5er's engine has started to miss on a few occasions lately. It is akin to when the tank runs dry. The engine is very sluggish and no amount of throttle input will increase revs. The engine has not actually died so far. It just cuts out for a brief part of a second often enough to affect road speed. The electrical items in the car do not show signs of cutting out. It has been cold during the times when this occurred, about 35-37 deg F. I have recently replaced the coolant temperature switch (blue which I believe is the ECU input). Suggestions? Cheers, Roland -- Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 12:45:48 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Beaudette, Roland SIKORSKY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'UUC \(E-mail\)'" Subject: Re: 90 525iA engine missing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Most likely is the coolant temperature sensor. Possibly the intake air temp sensor also. Your symptoms indicate that cold enrichment is not occurring. Gary Derian >I should also add that once the car is warm, the problem does not occur. >And > once warm, WOT performance is fine. > > -Original Message- > From: Beaudette, Roland SIKORSKY > Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 8:07 AM > To: UUC (E-mail) > Subject: 90 525iA engine missing > > > All, > > The 5er's engine has started to miss on a few occasions lately. It is > akin > to when the tank runs dry. The engine is very sluggish and no amount of > throttle input will increase revs. The engine has not actually died so > far. > It just cuts out for a brief part of a second often enough to affect road > speed. > > The electrical items in the car do not show signs of cutting out. It has > been cold during the times when this occurred, about 35-37 deg F. I have > recently replaced the coolant temperature switch (blue which I believe is > the ECU input). > > Suggestions? > > Cheers, > > Roland > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 10:48:32 -0800 (PST) From: John Stewart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: radiator woes - long Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Last week I decided that adding a cup or more coolant each day was too much, and I broke down and bought and installed a new Behr radiator in my 1993 525ia. To help with the diagnosis - to make sure that my head gasket wasnt part of the problem, I made a little nylon fitting that screws into the bleed screw spot and fits the hose from a little garden sprayer. I dont have a live pressure gauge on the system, but I ran a test on the pressure after 10 and then 20 pumps to be sure that I wouldnt overload the system. This is important to understand my problem description below, because normally a cooling system pressure test would evaluate the cap as a separate step. So with a new radiator installed and with the radiator cap in place, I tested the new system, and found that the system wouldnt hold pressure at all. Air and then coolant immediately came out through the cap. I examined the neck and cap and didnt notice anything obviously wrong. I then removed the cap and held my hand over the mouth of the plastic reservoir and found that the system will hold a fair amount of pressure. I dont have a way to test the cap separately, but I know that it held pressure on the old radiator. Just to be sure, I bought a new cap from the dealer yesterday. The same thing happens with the new cap in place. The cap wont hold pressure. With the radiator cap installed, I can squeeze the top hose and hear air coming out through the cap. With my hand over the top, the system will hold pressure. I compared measurements between the necks of the old and new radiators, and found no apparently significant differences. If anything, the inside-the-neck ledge on the new radiator where the cap seal makes contact is about 1mm closer to top meaning that the rubber seal on the cap would contact it a little sooner in the tightening process. Im stumped. My next idea is to make something shaped like the inside of the cap and with a seal that I can hold in place while I apply pressure, but that will let me see what is happening. Im looking for ideas. What is wrong? John end [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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Oct 2005 21:52:49 -0800 From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: euro headlight pins Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 08:38 AM 10/31/2005, Thomas Philip wrote: >On Oct 31, 2005, at 10:34 AM, Marc Plante wrote: > >>I just ordered a Plug and Play connector from a vendor for my E36 >>ZKW Ellipsoids. >>Some potential options that I located are Umnitza and >>Understeer.com. My connectors cost $235 delivered. Figure it >>savres ugly splicing into wiring. > >Did your connectors come with the factory twist-lock connector? The >PnP connectors I got from understeer.com were simply insulated pins >that friction fit the pins on the headlight connectors. It seemed >less than secure, so I'm trying to fab up a PnP connector that would >be a bit more ideal by using stock-style parts. I built a set of plug and play adapters when I put ellipsoids in my E36 back in 2001. It was pretty easy to do - my ellipsoids came with the correct connectors (thanks, Eurosport!), so all I had to do was build a cable that would go from the stock 9005/9006 connectors to the euro connector. On one end of the cable, I used the euro headlight connector (talk to your favorite BMW parts house, or to your local dealer for these...). For the other end of the cable, I couldn't get any suitable connectors, so I made some out of old 9005/9006 bulbs. I removed the glass parts, trimmed some of the plastic so that I could get to the conductors in the base of the bulb. Since solder didn't stick to the conductors, I used a small torch to put a thin layer of silver braze onto the conductors. The silver brazing compound let me solder wires to the conductors in the base of the bulbs. I insulated the connections with some heat shrink tubing, then potted the connections using JB weld to insulate/weatherproof them, and to give them some mechanical support. Pretty easy to do - made my set in about an hour or so... Jim Ochi -- Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 10:11:37 +0200 From: Pavel Tcholakov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com" Subject: Re: [E36] ECU gone mad? What else could it be?/ Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> No, I really think it was in fact the ECU. It has been running fine since Sunday - that's 3 days now. The tachometer still over-reads by about 4-500 RPM though - any ideas how to fix that? Even when the engine is not running, when I turn the key to position 1, it goes to just under 500 RPM. Pavel On 10/31/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Just throwing out ideas: > > Ignition switch? > > -Kevin > > > > > This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only > for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have > been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the > intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose > the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the > sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying > to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of > it. Thank you. > > > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 08:07:10 -0500 From: "Beaudette, Roland SIKORSKY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC (E-mail)" Subject: 90 525iA engine missing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> All, The 5er's engine has started to miss on a few occasions lately. It is akin to when the tank runs dry. The engine is very sluggish and no amount of throttle input will increase revs. The engine has not actually died so far. It just cuts out for a brief part of a second often enough to affect road speed. The electrical items in the car do not show signs of cutting out. It has been cold during the times when this occurred, about 35-37 deg F. I have recently replaced the coolant temperature switch (blue which I believe is the ECU input). Suggestions? Cheers, Roland -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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pumps were done about 1.5 years ago. Catalyst replaced 2 years ago (if my old one was good, so help me). I am running 93 octane and even did some highway driving to clean her out a bit (I live a little too close to work so most driving is short trips). O2 sensor cap, rotor and plug wires are about 5 years old, but I am getting no codes and it drives fine (Maybe the problem is here?) I believe that Mr. Anderson mentioned setting the valves to 0.012 cold to help this problem... would that help? Also, if I have one, would checking the settings of the fuel quality switch be worth it? Perhaps a PO fiddled (or perhaps fiddling would help?)... If CO or HC were the points is was failing on and/or it was sucking down oil at a spectacular rate, I might consider the engine worn out or something, but NOx? Man this is annoying. I though they fixed this the last time around. If it is the catalyst... that is under warranty according to my paperwork. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED]Worcester Polytechnic Institute -- Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2005 16:22:07 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com (bmw list) Subject: E30 emissions test failure... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Whoops... forgot to put this in... '87 325i 2.5L Manual transmission All in grams per mile Limit Reading HC 2.0 1.23 CO 30.09.46 NOx 3.0 3.15 -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED]Worcester Polytechnic Institute -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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is -Original Message- My good friend Andy Sanborn just had his 1995 355 Challenge STOLEN in New Hampshire, NH plate "Anglina". More details to follow, but please keep your eyes open! It is a Tommy Hilfiger team car (one of three), pics below. It has an open exhaust and is very loud. Can't imagine what someone is going to do with it, other than take it for a joy ride. If they try to part it out, please let me know (mysteriously low prices on 355 parts, especially Challenge parts). Alas, the third possibility is that it's in a shipping container going to Latin America or the Middle East or Eastern Europe. Damn. Pictures are here: http://70.85.40.84/~ferrari/forum/showthread.php?t=80429 If you see it or hear of anything, please call Andy at 603 682 1165. Thanks. --Dennis Regional Director Ferrari Club of America New England Region 617.512.8116 [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 16:12:24 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Battery quality CR reports Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Interesting that the most recent CR on auto batteries didn't have the old standbys (Douglas, Interstate) at the top of the list. Did the others improve? -Kevin This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. -- Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 23:59:56 -0400 (EDT) From: "C. Craig Eller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Back Seat Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Guys, Guess the hurricane has rattled my brains, I know I've had the back seat (fixed seat back, no trunk entry) out of the M3 before. The seat bottom is easy, just lift up at the edge and pull out. But I can't for the life of me figure out the seat back (vertical portion). Bentley's is no help, the bolts it indicates are behind the middle arm rest don't exist in the location indicated. Somebody put me out of my misery and tell me what I'm missing. Best wishes. Craig Eller 97 ///M3 Sedan BMW CCA Everglades Chapter -- Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 09:08:36 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: E30 325is failing emmissions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> '87 is is double Maryland Standards for HC 3.1 grams versus 1.8 grams standard, NOX 5.7 grams versus 2.8 standard. Daughter was supposed to get explanatory brochure from testing station but they were out. Car has no codes, new O2 sensor, was hot when tested, all equipment in place including stock air filter (nearly new). I'm thinking plugs, cap and rotor, clean the throttle body, maybe AFM? Ed -- Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 09:23:23 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Subject: Re: E30 325is failing emmissions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> HC from misfire, CO from rich, NOx from lean. Misfire also lets oxygen into the cat. Check all the ignition secondary, including wires. Injector matching and vacuum leaks are also suspects. Gary Derian > '87 is is double Maryland Standards for HC 3.1 grams versus 1.8 grams > standard, NOX 5.7 grams versus 2.8 standard. > > Daughter was supposed to get explanatory brochure from testing station but > they were out. > > Car has no codes, new O2 sensor, was hot when tested, all equipment in > place including stock air filter (nearly new). > > I'm thinking plugs, cap and rotor, clean the throttle body, maybe AFM? > > Ed > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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uto insurance, and car accidents >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Is anyone familiar with bailment law and auto >insurance? In particular, if you loan you car to >someone and it is then involved in an accident (just >damage to the car, nothing else), who's auto insurance >covers it and who's deductible applies? > >Additionally, assuming the answer is the owner's >insurance covers the damage to the car, can the >owner's deductible be recovered from the driver >(assuming the driver also has auto insurance) under >driver's auto property damage insurance? > >Thanks, >Paul >96 328i -- Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 06:24:26 -0700 (PDT) From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest Subject: Re: Bailment law, auto insurance, and car accidents Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The relevant state is MA. Thanks, Paul --- Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > What state? Insurance laws vary by state. > > Scott Miller > Can't answer the question though > GGC BMW CCA > > >Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 09:24:03 -0700 (PDT) > >From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > >Subject: Bailment law, auto insurance, and car > accidents > >Message-ID: > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > >Is anyone familiar with bailment law and auto > >insurance? In particular, if you loan you car to > >someone and it is then involved in an accident > (just > >damage to the car, nothing else), who's auto > insurance > >covers it and who's deductible applies? > > > >Additionally, assuming the answer is the owner's > >insurance covers the damage to the car, can the > >owner's deductible be recovered from the driver > >(assuming the driver also has auto insurance) under > >driver's auto property damage insurance? > > > >Thanks, > >Paul > >96 328i > > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __ Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page! http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs -- Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 13:57:43 -0400 From: "Beaudette, Roland SIKORSKY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC (E-mail)" Subject: e34 525iA parts help Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have disassembled the front fascia as part of a head lamp replacement project. The hardware (expanding rivets, screws, etc) that hold the grill & head lamp surrounds need to be replaced. The local parts guy says they only come with a new grill. Say it ain't so! Can anyone point me to these parts on the ETK? Cheers, Roland -- Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 14:25:10 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Beaudette, Roland SIKORSKY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC \(E-mail\)" Subject: Re: e34 525iA parts help Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It ain't so. Check here: <http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD53&mospid=47404&btnr=51_0610&hg=51&fg=15> Early and late parts are different. Gary Derian >I have disassembled the front fascia as part of a head lamp replacement > project. The hardware (expanding rivets, screws, etc) that hold the grill > & > head lamp surrounds need to be replaced. The local parts guy says they > only > come with a new grill. > > Say it ain't so! Can anyone point me to these parts on the ETK? > > Cheers, > > Roland > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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the HP gains of swapping an M50 intake reminds me that I have a complete M50 engine (95k miles) laying around from a previous project. Engine was running when removed from the chassis and has been stored indoors. Willing to sell just the intake or the complete engine. Open to offers on either. Thanks NOTICE This message and any attachment(s) are for authorized use by the intended recipient(s) only and may contain privileged or confidential information. Unless you are an intended recipient, you may not use, copy, retain, or disclose to anyone any information contained in this message and any attachment(s). If you are not an intended recipient of this message, please immediately contact the sender and delete this message and any attachment(s). -- Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 18:14:58 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Question about replacement Gearbox Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a 1996 318 ti Sport that had it's gearbox replaced due to the shift detent defect. The old gearbox was labeled for ATF. Is there any chance that the new one would take another fluid? I have not had a chance to crawl underneeth and check yet...besides I can't remeber which label means which fluid...DOH!!! David in Richmond, VA -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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ent the nuts and bolts I ordered 2nd day air but the important item was a no-show. Since I had some time to burn and wanted to play with my new toy I decided to change the flex disc today even though I will probably change the center support bearing in the next few weeks once it arrives. My question: Is the E36 M3 driveshaft different than the regular E36's? The Bentley describes a driveshaft that is very similar to what I am used to dealing with on E30's...but the driveshaft on our M3 does not have that 'collar' nut where you split the shaft to replace the support bearing. I could not see how it comes apart. Am I missing something obvious or does the M3 shaft come apart in a different way? BTW: I have done quite a bit of work on the M3 since we got it two weeks ago and really love working on it. Real nice car to wrench on. As a bonus a lot of the commonly replaced parts are in the E30 price range. At least the non 'M' parts. Dave T. -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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Nissan Armada tow vehicle and baby schlepper -- Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 09:21:46 -0700 From: "Curtis A. Ingraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Independent Service in IL Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Not sure if this is convenient for you, but B&D is an excellent BMW shop: B&D Automotive 1500 Madison St Maywood, IL 60153 708 450-0300 Curt Ingraham 72 2002tii Oakland, CA Roan Low <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The IAIBMWSP has only 3 shops listed for IL, and only 1 near me. > > Does anyone have any opinion regarding Euroquipe in St. Charles, IL or any > other recommendation for someone in the NW Suburbs of Chicago? > > Thanks, > Roan. > 99 M3 > Hoffman Estates, IL -- Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 11:55:40 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: E36M3 E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest Subject: GGC School at Infineon Raceway, Nov. 5-6 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Golden Gate Chapter has just opened registration for our annual fall driving school at Infineon Raceway in beautiful Sonoma, CA. The cost is $499 for club members and $539 for non-members (includes a 1-year BMW CCA membership) and it will take place the weekend of November 5-6. If you have no previous high performance driving experience, a Car Control Clinic is required prior to the Infineon school. Conveniently, we have one of those scheduled for October 22. The CCC cost is $80 and includes lunch. More info for these events can be found at: http://www.ggcbmwcca.org If you've never been to a track school, I *highly* encourage it. The skills you learn there will serve you well on the street. Plus, it's just a TON of fun! All makes are allowed, but BMWs are given priority. However, it has been several years since this has been an issue, so don't hesitate to alert your friends. Most convertibles and targas are not allowed at the Infineon School (see the event docs for more info), but they are more than welcome at the Car Control Clinic. Don't hesitate to get in touch with any questions. See you there! - Mark Driving Events Coordinator, GGC BMW CCA - [EMAIL PROTECTED] Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar -- Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 16:29:49 -0700 From: "Ben Dixon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: E-28 drivers seat needed Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey does anybody have a good used cloth pearl beige drivers seat I can buy? It just needs to be in really good shape and be power. This is going in my '85 five series. thanks, ben [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 08:29:52 -0400 From: "M540" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 'CHECK' light illuminated, help! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On our '95 M3 this light simply notes that a message has popped up on the OBC display. (Typically "low coolant" due to a flaky sender on our car I think). You can clear the Check light by pressing the Check button on the OBC on ours. Kevin On Sep 14, 2005, at 9:02 PM, Carlos Lopez wrote: > --- "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> Question(s): >> 1) What the heck does this 'CHECK' light mean? >> 2) Could this light be telling me "Look at the on-board computer >> stupid!"? > > I believe that's it. Mine will do it when I'm low on washer fluid. > Lately I'm getting the 'Brake circuit failure.' Not to hijack your > thread but what's the fix for that? Leaving tomorrow evening for VIR > so it's not like I can actually fix it before I go. :-/ > > Carlos > 98 M3 -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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005 21:28:36 -0500 From: Rob Norwalk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: E46 Adjustable Clutch Stop Woes Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Went to put my adjustable clutch stop on a 2002 330i that used to be on a 2001 330i. Common issue: when the clutch stop is adjusted where I want it, the car starter won't energize due to the safety switch on the clutch pedal. On the 2001, there were two plunger switches on the clutch pedal arm, one for the starter and one for the cruise disengage, and I just tie wrapped the starter plunder down and all was fine. On the 2002, the assembly has been updated, and I can't find anything to allow me shorten the throw and still get the car to start. Anybody else successfully dealt with this? Thanks, Rob Norwalk 2002 330i 1993 325i - more fun -- Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 22:01:38 -0700 (PDT) From: "Kazuto Okayasu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: E46 Adjustable Clutch Stop Woes Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Since Rob L. is on this list (duh) I'm sure he'll have a better answer, but I've heard of two: - Buy a old-style plunger switch and wire it in in place of the new magnetic one. - Stick a magnet on the new switch. > Went to put my adjustable clutch stop on a 2002 330i that used to be on > a 2001 330i. Common issue: when the clutch stop is adjusted where I want > it, the car starter won't energize due to the safety switch on the > clutch pedal. > > On the 2001, there were two plunger switches on the clutch pedal arm, > one for the starter and one for the cruise disengage, and I just tie > wrapped the starter plunder down and all was fine. > > On the 2002, the assembly has been updated, and I can't find anything to > allow me shorten the throw and still get the car to start. > > Anybody else successfully dealt with this? > Thanks, > Rob Norwalk > 2002 330i > 1993 325i - more fun > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- Kazuto Okayasu Administrative Computing Services University of California, Irvine -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have an '87 325iS and run 20/50 in the hot summer months, above 70 degrees and when track is involved. Otherwise I run 10/40. I've had no problems. Of course, this is dino oil w/2K mile changes. In the '93 525iT I run Mobil 1 0/40 year round. In your case I would consider how hard it's driven in the warmer weather. If you're driving it hard, I would use 20/50 otherwise I don't see why 10/40 would be bad. Others may say different and I'll be interested in some of the smart responses. Clarence West Bend, WI Ryan Simmons wrote: > Hey Guys! > Not to bring up any old flares on oil, but when I was flipping through my > Bently manual today I noticed that the correct viscosity of oil for the > ambient temperature in my neck of the woods is 20/50. I have always used > 10/40 or atleast for the two years I have had the car (87 325e). I did > this because my owners manual indicated that 10/40 would be best, or at > least that is how I interpreted the book. In the Bentley, 10/40 should > only be used at a max temp. of 60 degrees. sixty is about an average in > Oregon, but it varies. Is 20/50 ok to use? What do you guys use in these > M20's? I am really concerned about this issue because I drive like sixty > miles a day. > Thank you, > Ryan- -- Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 18:09:03 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Subject: Re: Oil Viscosity Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I use 15W-40 Rotella. Gary Derian > Hey Guys! > Not to bring up any old flares on oil, but when I was flipping through my > Bently manual today I noticed that the correct viscosity of oil for the > ambient temperature in my neck of the woods is 20/50. I have always used > 10/40 or atleast for the two years I have had the car (87 325e). I did > this because my owners manual indicated that 10/40 would be best, or at > least that is how I interpreted the book. In the Bentley, 10/40 should > only be used at a max temp. of 60 degrees. sixty is about an average in > Oregon, but it varies. Is 20/50 ok to use? What do you guys use in these > M20's? I am really concerned about this issue because I drive like sixty > miles a day. > Thank you, > Ryan- > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com -- Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 13:41:27 -0700 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" , bmw digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E36 96+ climate control panel, bad or with burned out capacitor is fine. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> E36 96+ climate control panel, with burned out capacitor is fine, just need a repairable core since a working one will go bad eventually anyway. Either priced to sell, or can trade a spare radiator, rim, wheel spacers w/ bolts, windows&/or winders, injectors, OEM exhaust, shocks, ??, possibly a 2002tii fuel pump? Prefer for pickup Bay area. tia, Barry -- Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 18:04:46 -0700 From: Harvey Chao <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Cc: BMP design Customer Service <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Follow-Up/Closure < Was E36,39, 46 Microfilters Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Way back on 26 June '05 I posted a reply to the original thread regarding Microfilters. I mentioned that I had ordered a pair of "Micron carbon " filters from BMP and that upon arrival, they turned out to be simple/plain "paper" filters without the activated carbon - which was not what I had expected given the descriptive name from BMP. I also mentioned that two successive e-mails to BMP customer service regarding this had been ignored. I had CC'd BMP on the post to the digest. Interesting that that apparently prompted a BMP response. On the 27th I got a response from BMP Customer Service in the form of an apology and offer to provide a "call tag" for the return of the filters and a refund - an offer that I promptly accepted. As I was leaving town for 3 weeks, the tag arrived in the mail, and upon my return, I packed up the filters and returned them to BMP where, according to the UPS tracking number, they were received and signed for on August 2. Yesterday I got my monthly credit card statement covering mid July to mid August and didn't see any credit from BMP. So l sent an e-mail last night and received a reply today saying that a credit for the filters had been posted 15 August. Checking my on-line statement, I was able to verify that posting. So - in the end, it has been resolved - although it "lurks" in the back of my mind that the caution I posted to this group in June about the situation I had with BMP and CC'ing them of the uucdigest post may have "incentivised them to finally respond - - but they DID respond. Harvey -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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ory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 18:53:58 -0700 From: "Jason Knight" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: E30 Stainless Steal brake lines Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> All, I bought a brake kit from TMS that included ss brake lines. I never installed them, and have since sold the car. I put them up on ebay, and have posted a link to the auction below. Not a lot of action at this point, so possibly a good chance to get yourself some brake lines for cheap. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5601683903&ssPageName=ADM E:B:LC:US:1 Jason -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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; easily.. > I took the trim piece off of the shift lever and noticed that the thin > steel > cable coming up to the shift lever had snapped! Does anyone know of a > write-up to replace this cable? Any experiences on changing this > cable? > How difficult is it to replace? > > Any help would be greatly appreciated! > Thanks! > Mo > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > ___ > ___ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW > CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 00:14:21 -0600 From: Wendall Siemens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: E36/E46 Car Seat? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin, I've found that the only place a rear facing seat will fit in my 92 325i is in the middle of the rear seat. No seat recomendations ... I think ours were Evenflo (sp?) Now forward facing seats- you can fit two one on each side fairly nicely (4 seater). You can fit two belt only seats and a really skinnly person [ < than 30" ;-) ] as long as the car seats are blet only with no funky overhead bars. I don't know if the 95 came with the safety teather connections already in, but the bmw dealers up here (Canada) gave them out for free. A bit of a PIA to install, but BMW did plan for them. Wendall 2 car seats (forward facing) & room for a 2/3 Iggy! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of M540 Sent: July 23, 2005 10:03 AM To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: [UUC] E36/E46 Car Seat? Here's a question for the parents in the crowd (off-list replies are fine since this isn't the normal power/suspension upgrade question): Can any of you tell me which car seat(s) you have found to work or not work well in 3-series BMWs? We currently have a 1995 (E36) M3 Coupe and are looking hard at E46 330 sedans. My wife is expecting our first this fall so we're currently picking up baby gear. I understand that not all seats work well in all cars and would be very interested in recommendations or BTDT thoughts. Thank you, Kevin Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 12:49:24 -0500 (CDT) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: regular gas in a 3.0? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dumb question of the day. Say I put regular 87 octane gas in a 3.0l motor. Is my mileage going to drop so far as to offset the savings at the pump? Any other (bad) consequences? - Kevin Jay '96 328is, red/tan, 95K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 35K, bone stock -- Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 13:17:29 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Re: regular gas in a 3.0? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Besides loss of power and possibly being outside the parameters for the engine management to compensate for knocking I wouldn't do it. Save pennies on fuel or rebuild a motor. hmm http://www.lubedev.com/smartgas/octane.htm Marco -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2005 10:49 AM To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: [UUC] regular gas in a 3.0? Dumb question of the day. Say I put regular 87 octane gas in a 3.0l motor. Is my mileage going to drop so far as to offset the savings at the pump? Any other (bad) consequences? - Kevin Jay '96 328is, red/tan, 95K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 35K, bone stock Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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0 (PDT) From: igor koruga <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: MODIC functions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin, see this: http://www.x5world.com/articles.php?action=viewarticle&artid=119 http://www.x5world.com/articles.php?action=viewarticle&artid=85 HTH, Igor BMW CCA GGC 01 X5 87 325is 86 325 > > Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 18:16:23 -0500 (CDT) > From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > Subject: MODIC functions > Message-ID: > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > New (to me) 2002 X5 3.0. Trying to understand how > some of these "Car Memory" > and "Key Memory" zany electrical functions work > (some of this stuff shouldn't > be this complicated, come on Fritz). Is there > really no way to program MODIC > functions without going to a dealer? Nobody has > hacked any of this, step-on- > the-brake-27-times-and-jumper-these-pins kind of > thing? Ultimately, what I'd > probably like to do is shut most/all of this crap > off (and leave me with just > a regular car that behaves intuitively, I don't need > it trying to outsmart > me every time I turn the key). > > - Kevin Jay > '96 328is, red/tan, 95K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, > a few M3 parts too > '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 35K, bone stock > __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 17:41:11 -0700 From: "Gary" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Clutch problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 1985 325e The clutch pedal hangs on the floor. It will return if pulled up, but does not spring back of its own. If I depress and release rapidly it will return. It does not disengage the clutch properly/completely after a moment in the down position, as if the fluid is draining off or back. There is adequate brake fluid. The brake is not affected in any way I can tell. It seems like a hydraulic issue to me? But maybe a new clutch is indicated? Anyone know the specifications of or subsitute for the special tool used to check clutch wear? Suggestions/diagnoses? Thanks. -Gary -- Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 21:06:23 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Gary" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Subject: Re: Clutch problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Bleed the clutch hydraulics. Gary Derian > 1985 325e > > The clutch pedal hangs on the floor. It will return if pulled up, but > does > not spring back of its own. If I depress and release rapidly it will > return. It does not disengage the clutch properly/completely after a > moment in the down position, as if the fluid is draining off or back. > > There is adequate brake fluid. The brake is not affected in any way I can > tell. > > It seems like a hydraulic issue to me? But maybe a new clutch is > indicated? > Anyone know the specifications of or subsitute for the special tool used > to > check clutch wear? > > Suggestions/diagnoses? > > Thanks. > -Gary > > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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gets back, whereas the dash will rely on resistance to ground through the sensor body to chassis. Also not sure where your wires are crossed, probably in the barrel connector below the throttle body, as the single wire will not go to the computer under normal circumstances. What exactly is the purpose of this mapping project? Hope this helps. Brett Anderson KMS > -Original Message- > I am trying to map out the coolant temp sensors on the 90 325i. I am a > little stumped though. There are 2 sensors on the thermostat housing, > one that is orange/brown plastic and the other is blue plastic. The > orange sensor only has a single wire which feeds the ECU(DME) indicating > when the engine is warm, I assume. The blue sensor has 2 pins and it > seems to me that this would feed the temp gauge in the instrument panel. > The wiring diagram only indicates a single pin on the temp sensor to the > dash panel. With a single pin you really only want a simple switch, > either hot or not, not a gauge like the car has. I did a line > continuity test on the sensors and I found the single pin sensor does > connect to the ECU. Doing the line continuity test on the 2 pin sensor > I cant find where the wires go. I assumed they would have to go to the > dash so I tested all the pins on the engine plug, but none showed any > current. Of course, I could have broken wires in the harness. Does > anyone know for sure what the second sensor does? Should it in fact > feed the instrument panel gauge? Is that gauge controlled via the ECU > instead? I want to avoid cutting the entire wiring harness open but if > I cant find where these wires go that is what I will be forced to do. > Any insight would be appreciated greatly. These are both temp sensors, > right? > > Roy Collins > 1990 325i - almost mapped out all the wiring across the engine plug -- Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2005 18:06:18 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: M20 coolant temp sensors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Tue, Jul 12, 2005 at 04:52:38PM -0500, Roy T. Collins wrote: > I am trying to map out the coolant temp sensors on the 90 325i. ...what Brett said. and if you just want to get some base resistance values for working sensors, I can give you a few measurements I made of mine. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro -- Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2005 23:51:30 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Re: Thermostat failure Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I don't mean to be wise, but I could/would suggest taking an entire spare car (and a mechanic if you are not so inclined) when going to the track ... ANY number of components can fail with little or no notice (the brake light switch is another example). And many other components can seem old but fine, and then suddenly fail. You could literally fill your trunk with spare parts and STILL not be prepared for your actual oddball failure. To me, personally, a thermostat is definitely not what comes to mind first. And always, think Murphy's Law. Which probably means that I should take a thermostat ... Stan > And another tip... > > When you go to a track event, take a new stat with you. It can save the > day. -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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fore. Tried another cartridge- Load/read seem normal, but Disk Error again when trying to play. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do (short of replacing it)? Thanks, Jay '94 525iT -- Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 10:29:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Jonathan Brush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: CD Changer Skips Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "My changer skips pretty easily - don't know if that's normal, but for $30 I'm not going to complain much." My OE E34 CD changer started skipping so I took it apart (fairly obvious screws) and lubricated all the joints and gears and sliding parts with plastic gear lube (which I had from my model railroading days). I dunno if regular lubricating oil would harm all them plastic parts, but the changer has been working fine for a few years since. Regards, Jon __ Yahoo! Mail Mobile Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail -- Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 16:31:54 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: De-rattling E30 convertibles? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm sure I'm not the first to ask this question here, but does anyone have any good advice about what spots to hit, and with what product, to minimize squeaks and rattles specifically related to the top and windows on E30 convertibles? I've got the Gummi-Pflege (or however it's spelled - I don't actually have it here in front of me) which seemed to help a bit, but that's just for the rubber window seals, I think. Back when I used to take it to the dealer, the car would be almost silent for a while after I got it back, so I know it can be done. Thanks! -Mike Kozitka -- Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 16:59:35 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: De-rattling E30 convertibles? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Sat, May 14, 2005 at 04:31:54PM -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > I'm sure I'm not the first to ask this question here, but does anyone > have any good advice about what spots to hit, and with what product, > to minimize squeaks and rattles specifically related to the top and > windows on E30 convertibles? I've got the Gummi-Pflege (or however > it's spelled - I don't actually have it here in front of me) which > seemed to help a bit, but that's just for the rubber window seals, I > think. Back when I used to take it to the dealer, the car would be > almost silent for a while after I got it back, so I know it can be > done. Thanks! Make sure the joints are lubed in the top mechanism. Of course you need to be careful so that whatever you use doesn't run back out and make a mess. I've had mine for 10 years and can't say that I've ever been annoyed by noises from the top, other than the tremendous wind noise you get from that thin single-layer canvas. The passenger seat is squeaky though if nobody is sitting in it. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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imposible to move. So let's not just fire on all urethane products. Bruno Webmaster of the BMW E34 Website: www.bmwe34.net - Original Message - From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2005 11:04 PM Subject: [UUC] Eurethane suspension bushings > Here's one for all you armchair racers who think that Eurethane is something > that should be installed on a vehicle. > > An example of E34 Eurethane thrust rod bushings after only a few thousand > miles. > http://www.koalamotorsport.com/thrustrod.avi > > The single biggest thing you can do to downgrade your stock BMW suspension > is use Eurethane bushings. I've said it for years, but now I have video > proof, bad as the video is. > > Brett Anderson > KMS > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 20:55:28 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Eric Benjamin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest Subject: Re: Eurethane suspension bushings Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Eric Benjamin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Just curious, the car may be sold this weekend. (but > still looking for other buyers ;-) Let the next guy worry about that, E36 engines belong in E30s, I thought everyone knew that. :-) >> http://www.koalamotorsport.com/thrustrod.avi Bah. I was expecting some fantastic video of an E34 rolling over at some track event due to some exploding thrust arm bushing or such. BTW Kathy would like to speak to both of you on proper spelling of urethane! ;-) -Carlos. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 11:10:06 -0400 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Eurethane suspension bushings Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> How about "Euro-thane"? :-) > --- Carlos wrote: > BTW Kathy would like to speak to both of you on proper spelling of > urethane! ;-) ---------- Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 06:23:32 -0500 From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: , "'Eric Benjamin'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Eurethane suspension bushings Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "BTW Kathy would like to speak to both of you on proper spelling of urethane! ;-)" THANK YOU, Kathy! I hadn't said anything yet - I was thinking "Eurethane" might be some sort of trademark name I hadn't run across - although if that were the case "Eurothane" might make a little more sense. -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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filter, air > filter, intake boot, cap and rotor, plugs, O2 sensor, thermostat, and > checked fuel pressure. > > Here are my suspicions: Plugged cat converter/muffler, bad air flow > sensor, head gasket blown, head cracked/warped, fuel pump not meeting > demand of engine under load. > > I've tried to test the air flow meter by checking resistance from two > points, 5&6 maybe, and found about 2000 ohms more or less all the way from > closed to WOT. > > The last stomp test I did gave me one long and one short flash, repeating. > > Who's got this one nailed? I don't want to continue driving an E30 with > an Isetta power train in it. > > Peter Harkonen > 1990 325i 5sp. > Windy City BMWCCA > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 20:03:40 -0400 From: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: E30- help fuel level sender Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> my '89 E30 325i suffers from fuel starvation below 1/2 a tank in hard right handers at high rpm (esp @ the track with R compound tires & suspension upgrades). fuel pump is pretty new, filters are all good, tank is oem bmw, and under normal driving it's fine. I've installed a second pump (left tank), T'd the lines together (both pumps supplying fuel), but I'm stuck with the fuel level sender originally, left tank is a floating variable resistor, in series with right tank grounded variable resistor (integrated into fuel pump) now I have a pump/integrated sender in the left tank as well, but I can't tie the resistors together because they are both now grounded. Sender design is such that the resistor is grounded internally to the assembly and there is no way to change that. any clever ideas on how to fool the fuel gauge? senders from other models that might work? I was also thinking of instead using a fuel accumulator (like what was used on E21 and other early FI cars) instead of a second pump.. any aftermarket sources for fuel accumulators? (all I can find are oil...) Might an E21 one work? thanks for any suggestions chris pawlowicz '89 325i '99 Z3 2.8 -- Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 20:18:48 -0400 From: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: E30- help fuel level sender Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I may have just found the answer to my own question- on E30 up to '9/87, only one sender was used (not two in series).. I'm thinking I just need to get my hands on one of them and I'm set chris > originally, left tank is a floating variable resistor, in series with > right tank grounded variable resistor (integrated into fuel pump) > > now I have a pump/integrated sender in the left tank as well, but I > can't tie the resistors together because they are both now grounded. > Sender design is such that the resistor is grounded internally to the > assembly and there is no way to change that. > -- Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 09:05:20 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: A different tire question... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have an '01 330Ci that needs new rubber--this car has the staggered tire set-up. I was thinking of going to the same size tire all the way around as this should reduce some under steer and help with tire wear. The car sees about 4-6 track days a year, has UUC sways and Koni shocks/struts and springs. 225-45-17 are easy enough to find and the stock front size--is anyone running these all the way around(I ran SO-3 in this size on my E-36 and thought it was a good set-up)? Comments? I was also looking at 235-40-17 but there is not a very big selection in this size. Anyone running these in an E-46? Comments? I am also considering some track tires--something that will have some decent life and not break the bank. So let me know what you recommend and why. Thanks in advance for your help. Marc NOTICE: This message has been checked for all known viruses! -- Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 09:06:01 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steve.Goldstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Track pads - front axle Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The sad day seems to have arrived and Performance Friction PF90s are no longer available for my E30 318is unless I want to special- order 100 sets. I know Hawk Blues are available in this fitment, and Mintex make this size. Does anyone have experience with their (Mintex) race pads? What else is out there? My usage is track days only, no racing. And remember it's a 318is with a chipped but otherwise stock engine, so it doesn't quite keep up with M3s. TIA. Steve -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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at, 19 Mar 2005 07:31:31 -0800 (PST) From: henry butt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest Subject: Hi All My E36 air bag warning light comes on when the car is first started and goes off only after having driven for a mile or so. This happened after the front fender had been repaired by a body shop as a result of a minor fender-bender (some jerk's SUV backed onto my front at a parking lot !) Is this a serious problem or just a matter of resetting the fault code ? Cheers ! Henry __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ -- Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 11:04:23 -0500 From: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: , <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Air Bag Light Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A few years back, I accidentally left the key on when I pulled the seat out of my mother's 95 525i (replacing the automatic height adjust cable mechanism). Even with the plug back in its mate, the light would stay on for two minutes on startup. The fault needed to be cleared at the dealer. $40 later, the light didn't come on anymore. Andy Soon to be iX-less >Mine comes on evry time I start the vehicle and remains on for two >minutes. Guess I'll look into the seat belt latch or occupant sensor. > >Regards, >Dan > > >On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 23:01:18 -0800, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >wrote: >> >> What would cause the light to come on, stay on for about two minutes and >> then extinguish after that time? This is for the '96 328. >> >> Thanks guys, Kevin -- Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 14:50:19 -0500 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: E34 Axle nut socket Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> This is kind of a mundane question, but I need to replace the front wheel bearings in my '95 530 and I'm having a devil of a time finding a 46mm socket to remove the axle nut. Any suggestions on where to buy one? Thanks. Tom C 1995 530i 1991 318is -- Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 13:49:51 -0800 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" , bmw digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E46 330i rotors on an E36 //M3? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Will E46 330i rotors fit on an E36 //M3? tia, Barry -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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hel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 08:26:16 -0800 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: UUC Digest Subject: Re: hp limits of 21.5 vs 24# injectors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dave, If you have a dynojet file of the runs I would be glad to look at it. Do you also have base runs before installing the parts? Barry Dave Miller M3 wrote: >I tried the complete Conforti setup on my stock S50 motor in my 95 M3, with >the cold air setup, Euro AFM, 24# injectors, and the corresponding chip, and >on a recent dyno run to get a baseline before I have some performance head >work done on the motor, we believe that the 24# injectors are too much for >the stock motor and actually reduced the power. We will be calculating what >the modified motor needs and then do some more dyno runs to get the best >setup for my configuration. >Dave >95 M3 > > -- Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 01:16:40 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Cc: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M3] Part Number Needed ASAP] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ed, 13 53 1 274 729 (used on most vehicles since you didn't say what model). I am surprised you didn't find it in the ETK, it is fairly obvious unlike some items. Unless I am misunderstanding you. This is the wire spring holder that holds the fuel injector into the fuel rail (I wasn't sure what else you would have been talking about). I have some if you want them, I can drop into a First Class envelope on Monday. Regards, Rich > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ed MacVaugh > Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 3:52 PM > To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > Subject: [UUC] [Fwd: [M3] Part Number Needed ASAP] > > > Little spring wire staple used to hold the connector to the fuel > > injector. Went flying and can't find it anywhere! > > Can't find it on the Part CD and I'm pretty good at using it. > > Anyone? > > Thanks, > > Ed -- Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 14:59:49 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Somewhat OT - BMW Club corrals at F1 & ALMS Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm hoping to attend the USGP at Indy and the ALMS race at Road America this summer. Does anyone here know if there will be BMW Club corrals at these events, and how I can go about getting in touch with the people who will be running them? It would be cool to maybe meet some of my fellow Bimmerheads. -Mike Kozitka -- Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 15:22:44 -0800 From: Jim Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Somewhat OT - BMW Club corrals at F1 & ALMS Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The Hoosier chapter of BMW CCA has a corral at Indy. The website for Indy is: http://www.hoosierbmw.com/f12005.asp You might want to look around the Peachtree chapter site for the ALMS race. It is: http://www.peachtreebmwcca.org I didn't see anything about a corral, but I didn't look that hard. Jim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >I'm hoping to attend the USGP at Indy and the ALMS race at Road America this >summer. Does anyone here know if there will be BMW Club corrals at these >events, and how I can go about getting in touch with the people who will be >running them? It would be cool to maybe meet some of my fellow Bimmerheads. > >-Mike Kozitk >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > >__ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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ance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2005 12:41:08 -0500 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Abbreviations & DTM Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Badges? We dont need no stinking badges! Sorry couldnt resist. Congrats on the baby Jack. I got two words for you .. snip it. We need you on the track. Take care of your family. We'll be there when your ready Bill Wade -- Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2005 11:42:17 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: FS: A few misc items Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi All, I'm trying to do a bit of cleaning up in the garage, and have a couple of misc items to get rid of. Figured I'd see if anyone is interested: - Sparco 5-point harness: http://www.justracing.com/classified/57 - E36 M3 rear sway bar: http://www.justracing.com/classified/58 - E36 radiator, used http://www.justracing.com/classified/58 I'll deliver within the SF Bay Area. If shipping is required, you'll pay actual shipping costs. Cheers, Jim Bassett -- Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2005 16:24:29 -0800 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" , bmw digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Wanted : //OBDII M3 stock hfm, ok if fried, and airbox Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just looking to borrow a stock airbox and HFM sensor for a 96 to 99 //M3.HFM sensor can be shot as I only need to measure dimensions. I'll gladly pick up and deliver them back to you in or around the SF Bay Area. Thanks, Barry -- Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2005 19:48:31 -0800 (PST) From: Jonathan Brush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Bubbakids, Drain Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gruppe: Someone asked about the Bubbkids etc from the old list. I contacted Dr. Keith Battan who sez that they are doing well, living with their grandparents. Duane, Drain, DRC, Draino has a hogly davidson chromed out the wazoo, an automatic Mercedes convert (which is for sale), and has sold the Kubota tractor. We all think he's up to something but who knows? Jon<---UUC charter member __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - 250MB free storage. Do more. Manage less. http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250 -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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thering the clutch would get you past it. Highway was no problem. Based on gut feeling, past (4 months ago) report of black/grey smoke on launch, the bogging down when I got on the gas, the large quantities of condensation (veritable fog bank) at the tail pipe, and a cold engine being ok, but a warm one having problems I was guessing a too rich mix. I was thinking temperature sensor, but the books point to fuel pressure regulator (which was suggested for the black smoke issue before). Ideas? I am going to go try to read the temperature sensor just to rule it out/in. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED]Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet -- Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 14:25:45 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com (bmw list) Subject: Re: E30 SOS! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >From [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >So my otherwise reliable E30 has just left me stranded (at home, yea!). > >Symptoms are as follows: > >Car turns over and starts fine, and then immediately dies. >Trying to help it with the gas (assuming an idle problem) I can get it up to >2-3k, but it just dies. Can't hold it there. > >Restarts are consistent (catches every time) but it always dies. > >Last night it threw an O2 sensor error and didn't idle well on a warm >engine, but once cool, it started and drove fine, no further codes. This >morning, nothing. > >Last night when it was acting up it would try to die when you launched after >a light, but feathering the clutch would get you past it. Highway was no >problem. > >Based on gut feeling, past (4 months ago) report of black/grey smoke on >launch, the bogging down when I got on the gas, the large quantities of >condensation (veritable fog bank) at the tail pipe, and a cold engine being >ok, but a warm one having problems I was guessing a too rich mix. > >I was thinking temperature sensor, but the books point to fuel pressure >regulator (which was suggested for the black smoke issue before). > >Ideas? I am going to go try to read the temperature sensor just to rule it >out/in. > Forgot to say that the car is an '87 325i. Temperature sensor (blue with two contacts) reads 8k at 10F which seems right. The other sensor (metal, one contact) reads about 2k to ground. What is that sensor? Assuming a over rich mix (semi confirmed by the exhaust smell after a few failed attempts) I opened the oil fill and tried again. It fought a little harder before dieing the same way. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED]Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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, but why does Bentley not include the '99 model in its description of model types? My E36 is build date 3/99. I'm assuming it's covered in the '98 MY. -Kevin -- Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 19:43:59 -0500 From: "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: Re: Bentley coverage Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm in the same situation--I have a 99 M3 E36 but I have a friend who has a E46 325i 1999. I have found the 99 agrees with the Bentley though MikeG - Original Message - From: "Brian Daley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 2:59 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Bentley coverage > I'm not sure if it's the case with late production E36's, but a car built > in 3/99 may still be a 98 model year vehicle. Wasn't the E46 introduced > in 1999? Model year is not necessarily related to calendar year. > Manufacturers often shorten or extend production of a particular MY when > introducing a new model (e.g. the 2005 Mustang has been out for several > months already) or when there's a regulatory advantage to be gained by > extending a model year into a new calendar year. For instance a > manufacturer may put off producing a new MY vehicle to delay the need to > comply with stricter emissions or CAFE standards, etc. I don't know off > the top of my head, but there is a limit to how far from the calendar new > year a model year may vary. > > Brian -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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et to if you want to check it. Just > remove the lower part of the back seat and then there's a panel you > remove by taking 2 screws out. Mine was on the driver's side. If > you're smelling petrol that may be where it's coming from. > > Oh by the way, I still call it petrol every now and then.my > excusewas in Australia this time last year! It's hard to go back to > calling it gas after being there for 6 months. > > Hope this helps and good luck! > > Phil Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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y ticking sound really distracting. At the same time, if it is likely just going to make noise again, I'm not sure it is worth replacing. Is it at all possible to disconnect it, or will that throw an emissions light? -Paul 96 328i 98 Kobra (for sale) __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 13:04:52 -0500 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" Subject: Re: Secondary Air Pump Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Your secondary air pump shouldn't tick. Unless there's a leaf stuck in it, I can't imagine how it could make a ticking noise. Describe what you're hearing, and when. Brett Anderson KMS > -Original Message- > From what I understand, these commonly make noise (at > least on the E36s). At any rate, mine does. > > Is it worth replacing? It is not extremely loud, I > just can't stand the ticking sound. I'm kind of anal > about the sound of my car, and I find any ticking > sound really distracting. At the same time, if it is > likely just going to make noise again, I'm not sure it > is worth replacing. Is it at all possible to > disconnect it, or will that throw an emissions light? > > -Paul > 96 328i -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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2004 22:17:40 -0500 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: 99 M3 for sale. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Unfortunately (for me) a customer has decided to move out of his E36 M3 into a Chebbette Z06. The car is a red/black 99 M3 Coupe with just under 48K miles. He has spent $10K on maintenance and upgrades with me this year, and I don't do stereo installs.. Inspection II performed just past 41K miles. Redline synthetics in diff and trans, BMW synthetic in engine. The car is currently riding on stock suspension, with the exception of the TMS trailing arm bushing limiter kit. The car is available with a complete TC Kline Koni single adjustable coil over shock/spring kit that is not yet installed. It includes 350lb front, 400lb rear springs, front camber plates, rear shock mounts, adjustable rear spring lands, and the 4 Koni EXTERNALLY ADJUSTABLE shocks. The rear shocks are NOT the type that you have to remove to adjust. Note that this suspension package is at additional cost. It's brand new and never been installed. Also note that springs can be exchanged for different rates at any time until they have been installed. Here's what the owner says about the car (my notes in parenthesis): SSR GT3 19x8.5 all around and two extra 19x9.5's for the rear (the 9.5's will rub without spacers AND severe fender rolling unless you swear to never carry rear seat passengers. They should be viewed as a way of recouping some money, when you sell them) UUC BBK 14in front and 12.9 rear (KMS installed, red calipers, Akebono ceramic pads) UUC Evo 3 SSK AA Gen 3 exhaust Shark injector ODB-1 Manifold with Eurosport kit (KMS installed, nice kit, no bullshit plumbing fittings) Depo headlights with angel eyes (KMS installed ZKW units) JTD Underpanel (KMS installed) TMS Trailing Arm Bushing Limiter Kit (KMS installed, with new, stock, bushings) Tint all around except windshield Heated Seats 18 button obc Aftermarket alarm (a little cheesy. Should be removed in my opinion) Sound System - Alpine 9815 head unit. Kicker kick panel and rear deck speakers. Planet Audio door tweeters and Planet Audio mid range door speakers. There are two kicker 120.2 amps for the speakers. One for each side of the car. VIN is WBSBG9334XEY80754 Mileage is about 47800 One of the (8.5") rims is bent but holds air fine. There are a couple door dings. Asking price is $26,500 without the TCK suspension. Email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you're seriously interested in this car and I'll put you in touch with the owner. Brett Anderson KMS - Koala Motorsport 440 564 7574. -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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e 745i had a turbo charged 3.5L "senior" six. This motor was never used in a factory M3. The e30 M3 had a 2.5L 4 cylinder (with various versions or evos depending on the year). The e36 M3 had a inline 6, but not a 3.5L and not the "senior" six variant. But that's about all I can recall. Lots of good resources on the internets to bring more detail to this hazy recollection. Mike On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 12:34:26 -0600, Celisa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I was told that a 745i had the same engine as the m3. Is this correct? I > just wanted to be sure. Thanks very much in advance. > > Celisa > '99 328is > Lone Star Chapter > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- mikehd -- Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2004 13:42:46 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: M3 vs. 745i Engine Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I know next to nothing about the 745i (any 745i chassis for that matter) and I can safely say that it does not share its motor with any M3. The 745i has a V8, the M3 is still an in-line 6 (for now). Regards, Rich > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Celisa > Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2004 1:34 PM > To: BMW > Subject: [UUC] M3 vs. 745i Engine > > > I was told that a 745i had the same engine as the m3. Is this correct? I > just wanted to be sure. Thanks very much in advance. -- Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2004 13:03:34 -0600 From: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: What About M3 vs. 740i Engine Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >What about 740i having the same engine as the m3. Is this correct? I just >wanted to be sure. Thanks very much in advance. > > > > Celisa > '99 328is > Lone Star Chapter > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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es of faithful service -- Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2004 21:52:30 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 540iT - or? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > At 10:42 AM 11/26/04, Rich Dorffer talked about: > >Me too, the numbnuts on the E30 Group told me that "ALL" BMW > radiators last > >forever... > > > >;-) > > Depends on what the definition of "forever" is. :-) There is only one definition of "forever". :-) And it is a very long time... Later, Rich -- Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2004 20:05:32 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: 540iT - or? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 06:52 PM 11/26/04, Rich Dorffer talked about: > > Depends on what the definition of "forever" is. :-) > >There is only one definition of "forever". > >:-) > >And it is a very long time... Ah. Thanks for clearing that up, Rich. :-) Jim Bassett -- Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2004 10:38:17 -0800 From: Avi Heroor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: OT: Internet parts sources for non-Bimmer parts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> All, Apologies for the OT post, but do you know any good internet part sources for non-bimmer car parts (more specifically Nissan). Google returns a bunch of links but they all seem the same and not all parts are original. Fortunately, the EPA mandated sites make getting service information pretty easy. Thanks, Avi. -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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n torque Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It's 58-63 Nm (42-46 ft.lb) - Bentley: Ch 13 page 32 'Suspension and Stering' (right under Fig. 6-9) HTH Igor BMW CCA GGC 86 325 01 X5 Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 12:02:36 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: diff allen torque Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Weather here (SF Bay Area) on Saturday was nice so my son and I put the LS into the e30. But try as we might we could not find in Bentley a torque value for the half shaft bolts into the diff output flanges. We found an old article from the web that indicated 42ft-lbs for an E30 M3. Is this good for the std E30 (325i) also? -Kevin __ Do you Yahoo!? Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page. www.yahoo.com -- Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2004 11:32:30 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Door Panels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gents, Will the door panel of an E30 M3 fit the door of a std E30 coupe? The panel I'm thinking of is the one with the recessed cloth and the BMW M colors in a pattern of broken hash marks running through it. -Kevin -- Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2004 12:03:08 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Door Panels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Gents, > Will the door panel of an E30 M3 fit the door of a std E30 coupe? Yes. >The panel I'm thinking of is the one with the recessed cloth and the >BMW M colors in a pattern of broken hash marks running through it. The Sport Evo cloth? http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq/E30_M3_Sportevo_seats.jpg If so I suspect they're quite pricey. Carlos. 93 325is 88 325is __ Do you Yahoo!? Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page. www.yahoo.com -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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> > > > > > Rich > > > > > > __ > > Do you Yahoo!? > > New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages! > > http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail > > > > > > Search the >ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > >__ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW >CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ -- Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2004 22:12:35 -0400 From: "m3 drvr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Thanks to all Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I want to acknowledge everyone who gave responses to my Autobody solicitation. I will give you all updates on who I choose and how it goes down. This is a great list! Clyde 98 M3/4 _ Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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efano" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Fog light protection Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm about to replace my fog lights ('98 M3) and I wanted to protect them since they brake fairly often. I have seen a couple of guys around with different protective covers. There is a site that advertises on Roundel www.lamin-x.com and here is what they offer: https://secure4.websitecomplete.com/films/shop/showProd.asp?prod=137 This is thin (40mil) precut adhesive layer that I assume would be invisible. I noticed other people install much more thick covers about 1/4inch that seems much more robust but they may also rob you of some of the light. Any comments/suggestions? Thanks Stefano '98 M3 about to get new fog lights (for the last time?) _ This e-mail and any attachments may be confidential or legally privileged. If you received this message in error or are not the intended recipient, you should destroy the e-mail message and any attachments or copies, and you are prohibited from retaining, distributing, disclosing or using any information contained herein. Please inform us of the erroneous delivery by return e-mail. Thank you for your cooperation. _ -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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was in the > > 60-90degree > > range without moving from 12 while it could vary that much. > > > > Anyone out there with an aftermarket gauge care to enlighten > > us to how much > > the temp can fluctuate before the gauge moves from the 12 > > o'clock position? > > > > > > Mike > > > > Search the > > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > __ > > > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > > the BMW CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2004 10:42:08 -0400 From: "Bailey Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: UUC - Possible bad temp gauge on e36 M3? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> FWIW, newer Jeep gauges are also buffered-including the oil pressure gauge(I guess its the Daimler influence). The dumbing down of society continues; read CM Kornbluth's short story "The Marching Morons" to see where we will be in a few years... Bailey Taylor 1995 318ti Club Sport 1997 528iA 1999 Wrangler Sahara Light Campaign Assault Vehicle Scooter still to be decided-Lookin' at a Trophy 1200 today... -- Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 15:46:01 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: M3 Rear Springs on 318ti? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Carlos Lopez wrote: > 318ti trailing arms are more like an E30s aren't they? other than taking a slightly different sized wheel bearing they're nearly identical AFAIK. they definitely fit right into an E30, since I have them on my car. I'd therefore assume that an E36 rear spring would _not_ work on a 318ti. fronts would of course, but that's not the subject here... Ben two cars worth of adjustable E30 rear suspension stuff. two cars too :-P -- Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 16:08:47 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: UUC - Possible bad temp gauge on e36 M3? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Lee wrote: > It must be one hell of a signal filter they have there, but without it, they > would probably get a million complaints a day. In BMW's, even in cars as > old as my E30, this gauge has been reduced to little more than a fancy idiot > light. you sure about that ? in my E30 the gauge is a lot more active than it was in the M coupe. the gauge in the E28 is very much real as well as it will move when you turn on the heater. IIRC temp sender on the engine does put out a usable value, the cluster just converts it into one of the pre-set ranges. I think there's a part of the cluster test which will show you a hex value which is related to the temp reading, but I don't recall if it's an actual temp reading. probably not. Ben -- Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2004 20:22:50 -0700 From: "Kiely, John '06" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Tac Problems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Does anyone know of another reason for a broken tachometer other than the SI batteries. My dad and I replaced them and the tachometer still doesn't work. All ideas are helpful. -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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> The reverse gear in my 2000 X5 4.4 SP has almost stopped working. The X5 moves slowly in reverse no matter the engine speed, but it won't climb a gentle incline. The forward gears all seem fine. My mechanic checked the fluid level (it was fine) and said that I needed a new transmission. An X5 tranny should last longer than 82,000 miles. My web searches didnt turn up much. Any ideas? Is it time to quietly buy that extended warranty? Thanks, Bill -- Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 11:23:31 -0400 From: "Marshall Lytle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 FUEL LEAK Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> as another poster said, vent and tank rust is a common issue with these cars. there is a metal vent line that runs on top of the tank from side to side. it rusts out. will leak when full. tank replacement is required. the job isn't that bad. it is only nuts and bolts, just lots of them. good used tanks(southern cars) can be had for $100. it is a one day job in your driveway. btdt. marshall -- Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 11:23:37 -0400 From: "Marshall Lytle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: e36 subframes Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> don't believe there are any known issues with front subframes on street cars. you can see and feel a rear subframe mounting point problem without removing the subframe. i am sure dealers charge big bucks for the repair, but i watched a torn rear subframe mounting point get repaired in less that two hours last weekend. start to finish, on grass, with jackstands and a portable welder. if you know what you are doing and really need to make the qualifying session for the race, anything can be done! ;-) marshall -- Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 12:05:38 -0400 (EDT) From: "Jason Pintar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E30timing belt cover Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all. I just finished replacing the timing belt on my E30 (1987 325is), and I've got one more question. When I removed the upper timing belt cover, I found that one of the two bolts that holds it on was missing. Must not have been replaced by the person who did the job before me. I'd like to replace the bolt, but I don't what size it is. Does anyone know what I would need to replace it? It is the smaller of the two bolts and the one on the left if you are looking at it from the front. Thanks, Jason -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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ad become brittle, I discovered that the >> small hose from the throttle body to the >> evaporative purge valve vacuum switch had a splice in it. Is the >> splicing part required for any reason or can I >> just use a single continous length of vacuum hose? >> >> Thanks, >> Avi. > > -- Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 14:13:24 -0600 From: "r.mackrill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: filler neck leak..'86 e28 535i fuel tank Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> rather than mess around with a filler neck repair, a recycler in British Columbia has one "in good condition" from an '88 535i. should fit?Cost $195. cdn. + shipping. Still have a love affair with my faithful dd. Randy..Regina SK. '86 535i -- Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 13:30:14 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: 328 feedback Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I just went and looked at a '97 328 with 59K miles and wanted to get some perspective. The motor sounded fine except that it had a high pitched noise that might be water pump. The seats sit pretty low and have adjustable knee bolsters. Some questions of the digest: 1. Do the '97 3's also have the plastic impeller coolant pump? Is 59k an average time to expect pump change? 2. This car has an auto tranny. (OK the car's not for me) Is this a lifetime fluid transmission? 3. Any common failure points on '97 3's or 328's in particular? 4. Back door lock does not seem to work on remote and the latch has to be operated by hand. Is this likely actuator? 5. Does this model allow ECU code checks with the pedal activation? How many pumps? 3 didn't seem to work. 6. Where's the battery? under seat or in trunk? I'll have to drive it later to check out brakes, suspension, and bushings. Thanks gents. -Kevin -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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res. the 8" wheel is obviously an entire inch (25.4mm) wider than the 7" (12.7mm on either side) but I think that the tire will still be the widest thing you're dealing with in the equation. plus, if you have too much wheel on the inside (it will rub on the strut housing) you can reduce the offset with a spacer. remember that you can always _reduce_ offset, but never _add_ it. note that the clearance issues should only exist on the front of the car, there is lots of room in the rear wheel wells, I've run 225/45-17's on a 41mm offset wheel on my car, but since it runs a 318ti rear end (and rotors) I'm not 100% certain about whether it translates to a normal E30. I ran E30 M3 fitment 15" x 8" Kosei's on my car a few times, but it was set for pretty high ride height & the tires stuck out beyond the fenders. stiff springs prevented it from rubbing anywhere tho. Ben Garrick wrote: > I have an '89 325is (***not an E30 M3***) that I'd like to put > 15x8 Kosei K1s on. Available offsets are ET12 and ET22. Has > anyone tried either option? Fender wells have not been rolled, > and the car sits about 1.5 - 2" lower than stock. -- Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 16:50:39 -0800 From: "Ben Dixon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Free Roundel Magazines Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey if you need any for your collection you can have mine for the actual cost of shipping. I've got the last three years so let me know if you need one or all. Thanks, ben [EMAIL PROTECTED] '95 325i for sale '85 524 TD (3) for sale '72 2002's (2) for sale '85 323i for sale -- Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 10:03:32 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Door Open chime resolved, I think Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Many thanks go out to the folks who recommended I replace the drivers door striker to resolve the Open Door chime/alert. Mostly the thanks goes to Brett, but there were several other viable things to check. I chose the stiker swap because it was cheap (usually good)and easy/time efficient (usually good). How do I know that this actually fixed the probelme since it was intermittent?? I dont. But it hasn't done it since I changed it. Again, Thanks to all Steve -- Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 12:54:31 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Brendon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Upgrading stock E36 speakers - For Sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi, I have a full set of E36 M3 Quart speakers w/ the requisite wiring and hardware for sale. They came out of my Doctor's '98 M3 and he asked me to sell them for him. He ordered these special so he wouldn't have to alter any of the speaker mounts or do any custom installation, so they are literally plug and play for an E36 M3. I have the original invoices for all of the equipment. He only had them installed for about 10K miles before he ask me to take them out when he sold the car. They are virtually like new. Let me know if anyone is interested. Evan Evans President Smoky Mountain Chapter BMW CCA 865-694-3088 At 09:35 AM 12/29/03 -0800, you wrote: >Folks: > >I'm planning to upgrade the tweeter and midrange front speakers in my '96 >E36 sedan (I don't have >the Harmon Kardon "premium system" -- just the standard speaker setup). > > >I'd love to hear recommendations on "drop-in" replacement speakers -- I've >looked at the Unofficial E36 site, but the >a/d/s "drop-in" replacement set doesn't seem to be available anymore. >So is it a matter of just finding the right sized speakers and connecting >them? >FYI: I'm planning to stick with the stock amp in the trunk as my >understanding is that it >has the crossovers built-in already -- I'm not interested in installing >crossovers and new wiring >in the interior. I'm also not interested in cutting holes for a new >speaker in the lower kickpanels (is there even room there for a new >speaker down there? On the coupe model >looks like there is, but not in a sedan -- I guess maybe lower in the door >panels, but again I don't want to cut holes) > >I'm hoping to get a bit cleaner treble and bit more well-definted >bass out of my upgrade speakers -- my understanding is that the stock amp >is not that bad but >the Noikia speakers that come stock are just average at best. I've stuck >with the original speakers >for my first 4.5 years of ownership, but with a new commute coming up (and >new job signing bonus) I'm >looking to improve my commute time. > >Private email is fine if this is not germaine to the rest of the list. > >Thanks and happy new years! >-Brendon >-- >to be removed from bmw, see http://www.digest.net/bin/digest-subs.cgi >or email "unsubscribe bmw" to [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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EM take off exhaust for my wifes car. She is a bit peeved at you all > ;-) So anyone care to speak up and get me out of the dog house? > > Cheers, > > Noah Paci > > > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 06:25:01 -0800 From: Ray Bahr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Location of Build Sheet Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi All, Happy Holidays!!! I have an E39 540iT and I was looking for the 'build sheet' for this car. I had the back seat out but did not see it. Any thoughts as to where it could be lurking? TIA Ray -- Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 10:31:42 -0500 From: "Eurowerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 96' E34 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I happen to have a client that has a 1996 525i sedan. It is the Olympic Edition and by the VIN it is actually a 1996 model. It is the only one that I have ever seen. I didn't think that BMW made a 96' model either. Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125 [EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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Snow Tire Decision - advice Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Neil, I agree with you that Gislaved has some new products that are very good. In some cases where Nokian does not offer a particular size, or is out of stock on a tire, I often will sell the Gislaveds as a good alternative. However, Nokian has more tire choices that fit different needs than does Gislaved, and Gislaved's pricing is very reasonable as well. No problem with Gislaved tires from my perspective. Bill Ballon At 10:20 AM 11/29/03 -0800, you wrote: >Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 07:44:47 -0800 (PST) >From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: Final Snow Tire Decision - advice >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Bill: > >Have you ever tried Gisvaled? I had the Nord Frosts >on my 88 iS in Detroit and they were really great. I >used to do about 600 miles/week in winter with most of >them on the weekend and then about 10 miles/day in >largely poorly ploughed areas. The tires bolted the >back of the car down like you wouldn't believe. Same >thing around Ohio State and the poorly plouged apt. >complexes. The car ran through mini-drifts and such >w/o issues while invincible FWD cars (LOL!) were >stuck. In fact, I used the diving board rear bumpers >to push other cars out of snow with those tires. > >GREAT wear as well. I had them 4 years and they were >as good as when I got them from the PO who may have >had them a while as well. While practising German on >a plane in Europe, I came across an review that rated >them over the Nokian offerings in Finland or >something. At any rate, my German was not good enough >to get all the comments, but I _could_ read the >tabulated results! > >Neil Deshpande - no snows in ATL! -- Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 10:11:45 -0700 From: "Tim Pfister" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: more snow tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Has anyone looked into "Green Diamond" tires? www.greendiamondna.com They certainly look intriguing. Tim Pfister,50 today in Montana, no need for snow tires -- Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 01:35:33 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E34 M5 throwing star wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> four (4) stock E34 M5 wheels w/throwing star covers. wheels are 8" x 17" w/20mm offset. $950 + shipping from 48220. lots of pics & more information here : http://members.roadfly.com/m_ben/E34_M5/lw-set.htm Ben -- Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 05:53:18 -0500 From: "Bob Van Epps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Bmw-Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[EMAIL PROTECTED] Com \(E-mail\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Club-Race List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[EMAIL PROTECTED] Com \(E-mail\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: FS: 225/45/15 Hoosiers Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have 4 sets of these available with minor use. 70-90% left. $120 per set plus shipping from 33313. Bob Van Epps Van Epps Motorsports 954-741-0990 954-572-3766 Fax -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **
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error, please notify the > author by replying to this message and then kindly delete the message. Thank > you. > > -- Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 08:35:38 -0500 From: "The Corbs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Crooked E36 M3 - What to do? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks for the admonishments and the sanity folks. Rest assured that I would not consider destroying a good E30M3. However Rich and Peter are correct that there are a lot of dogs out there that are only a step away from the scrapheap, and if one comes my way I will be tempted. That said, the transplant into an E36 is still preferable and appears to be more straightforward, and I haven't seen any indications that would preclude any E36 unibody? If any of you hear or know of a good e36 roller, please let me know. Thanks John Corbs - Original Message - From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 9:34 AM Subject: Crooked E36 M3 - What to do? You guys and your silly sacrilege to the E30 M3. There is no big deal putting the E36 M3...errr332is motor into the E30 M3. You guys act like they are so rare as to be ultra valuable. Last I checked, pristine E30 M3s were still below $20k and a rolling chassis was well below $10k, I wouldn't exactly call either ultra collectible. Don't get me wrong, I am not endorsing taking a pristine example and doing a transplant (I wouldn't for a pristine 325is either), but there are plenty of candidates out there. I would find the best E30 chassis you can find (garden variety or M3) and do a transplant. Regards, Rich - still would like an E30 M3 some day... -- End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **