Stus-List Re: Unusual C&Cs for sale

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

My boys think the Roche Harbor "Phecal Phreak" pumpout boat is the funniest
thing ever. See video.
https://youtu.be/e5Q-fU7tg9E




On Wed, May 11, 2022 at 7:40 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There is a pumpout boat in Roche Harbor, San Juan Island, WA. It has a big
> sign that says: "We take crap from anyone"
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Wed, May 11, 2022 at 7:33 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I had no idea they made holding tank pumpout boats, but apparently they
>> did or someone made a typo:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/2002-c$c-pumpout-boat-7322319/
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>

Stus-List Re: C&C 34/36 Boat reviewed in Sailing magazine

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

'Sailing World' or 'Sail'? I didn't see it in 'Sail'.

On Thu, Jan 13, 2022, 4:22 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I would like to see it too, please.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> On Thu, 13 Jan 2022 at 19:53, Allen Miles via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Chuck,
>>
>> I would like to see that article.
>>
>> Allen Miles
>>
>> On Wed, Jan 12, 2022 at 8:11 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> FWIW, there is a nice used boat review of the C&C 34/36 in the 2022
>>> Jan/Feb *Sailing* magazine.
>>> If anyone is interested, I can share a copy of the article.
>>>
>>> Chuck S
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks - Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fwd: Read Sarah’s review

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

My apologies to everyone. That message was not intended for the list. I
asked Stu to take it down early this morning.
Bill Walker, would your time be better spent winterizing your old boat and
finishing the headliner installation? I wish for you at least a few more
spring launches. Please do not message me directly or on this list again.

Fair winds and stay classy everybody!



On Sat, Oct 16, 2021 at 8:24 AM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Done and done.
>
> (Mistake I am sure)
>
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>
> --
> *From:* Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, October 16, 2021 10:34:26 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Joel Delamirande 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Fwd: Read Sarah’s review
>
>
> What going on here
> On Sat, Oct 16, 2021 at 10:30 AM Matthew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> And throw some used cotter pins on his deck.
>
>
>
> *From:* WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, October 16, 2021 8:42 AM
> *To:* Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
> *Cc:* WILLIAM WALKER 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Fwd: Read Sarah’s review
>
>
>
> No, I say we flood his inbox, and drill holes in his hull...
>
> Bill Walker
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca
> *
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Fwd: Read Sarah’s review

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

See private feedback

-- Forwarded message -
From: Airbnb 
Date: Fri, Oct 15, 2021, 7:16 PM
Subject: Read Sarah’s review
To: 


[image: Airbnb]


Here’s what Sarah wrote
[image: Sarah]

Sarah

We loved our stay at Kevin and Lisa’s house. Communication was excellent.
They even checked in with us a couple of times during our stay to see how
we were doing and if we needed anything. The spacious house is located a
block from the main street in White Salmon. It’s very nicely decorated,
beds are comfortable as is the whole house. We would definitely stay here
again. White Salmon is a tiny town but with some great food. Make sure you
visit the local bakery!
Sarah’s private feedback for you:

“We loved our stay! Thank you for being so communicative hosts. Great
house, great location, really nice design, and and very comfortable! Given
your attention to detail, there are a couple of things you might like to
know... the pots and pans are in a bit of disarray. The single skillet
which has a non-stick surface, was pretty scratched up. Only one pot had a
lid that fit, the other lids were kind of random and one was broken. Some
of the pots also not super clean. Also, the utensil drawer was kind of
dirty. Otherwise the house was spotless, and these observations are just
for you.”

Now that you’ve both written reviews, we’ve posted them to your Airbnb
profiles.

While Sarah’s feedback can’t be changed or removed, you can write a
response that will appear directly below it.
Write a response


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Airbnb, Inc.

888 Brannan St.

San Francisco, CA 94103, USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I would think a small butane torch from Dremel or Benzomatic would do
the trick as well. The flame is small and focused but intense. I keep one
on board mostly for hot knifing ropes. This is the kit I use:
https://us.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/2000-01-versatip-precision-butane-torch
~$45 on Amazon, etc


Kevin Driscoll



On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 2:43 PM Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> get/borrow a big (200W) soldering iron.  I've got one as part of a wood
> branding kit, and places that build large cable assemblies would have
> one.  Maybe stained glass makers.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2021-07-21 12:43 p.m., Adrian C Humphreys via CnC-List wrote:
> > West has a wealth of epoxy-related info. From this page:
> >
> >
> www_dot_westsystem_dot_com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/bonding-fasteners-hardware/
> >
> > " Removing Epoxied Fasteners
> > 
> > Remove a permanently bonded fastener by applying heat to the head of the
> fastener with a soldering iron or propane torch. Use a heat shield to
> protect the surrounding area. Heat will travel down the fastener, softening
> the epoxy in contact with it. At about 120°F the epoxy should soften enough
> to allow the fastener to be backed out. Allow more time for heat to travel
> down longer or larger diameter fasteners.
> > "
> >
> > Adrian Humphreys
> > Epilogue, Rockport ME
> > C&C 33-2
> > adri...@telamontech.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Jul 21, 2021, at 10:48 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> To Dwight’s comment, unfortunately no, I can’t just grind it away and
> ignore it, I am too Anal.
> >>
> >> The head was sticking out a couple inches (with an inch and a half in
> epoxy), so that is what I was using to unscrew, as well as two lock nuts,
> so I had two wrenches to unscrew with. Unfortunately, it broke almost flush
> with the transom underneath the lock nuts. I should have lathered more
> Vaseline on it.  Don’t want to beat on it, as it is really in there, and
> beating would no doubt break the inner and outer layers away from the foam
> core, and the backstay is right about there . . .
> >>
> >> And thanks for all the suggestions, I have all the left hand drills and
> easyouts, etc, I understand removing it like that is do-able, I just am to
> anal to booger it up. That will be my last resort. I know there has to be a
> way to heat the stud up. If I took a welder down, it would be fairly simple
> to heat up, those obviously can take a direct short. And I have a half
> dozen welders, but they are all 3 phase and not easy to drag onto a boat. I
> was mostly looking for electrical advise. It sounds like the consensus is
> that this 12V power supply is not something that can take a direct short.
> If I can’t figure the bolt heating out, I suppose eventually I will have to
> try the easy out or failing that rout out around the bolt.
> >>
> >> Like Old Lodge Skins, I will have to smoke on it till I figure it out.
> . . .
> >>
> >>
> >> Bill Coleman
> >> Entrada, Erie, PA
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> >> Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 6:09 PM
> >> To: Stus-List
> >> Cc: ALAN BERGEN
> >> Subject: Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy
> >>
> >> You can probably drive the bolt back through the transom using a hammer
> or sledge hammer, and then a punch and a hammer. A hard strike should break
> it free from the epoxy. If it's truly a carriage bolt, you don't want to
> try to turn it. A carriage bolt has a round head and a square neck.
> >>
> >> Alan Bergen
> >> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> >> Rose City YC
> >> Portland, OR
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 2:42 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>> Can you just grind it away and leave  it.
> >>>
> >>> On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 3:41 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>  I have a Broken ¼ - 20 broken carriage bolt with around 2 threads
> showing out my transom.
>  1 ½” is embedded in epoxy. An easy-out seems unlikely.  I did four,
> three of them unscrewed successfully, but apparently I didn’t coat this one
> thoroughly enough with the Vaseline.
> 
>  I am thinking that if I can heat the bolt up to around 300 degrees or
> so, it will break the bond with the epoxy. A soldering iron seems *maybe*
> possible, but that is only one side. I was wondering if I could heat it up,
> like plumbers do with welders to melt frozen water lines, it might be an
> option.
>  But I don’t understand enough about electrical resistance to know how
> to go about it. Using a battery for juice seems risky, having seen what
> happens when I have shorted them out with a wrench –
>  I do have a 30 amp adjustable Powerwerks power supply, which seems a
> little safer.
>  What I don’t understand, is if I can put a positive on one end of the
> bolt, and negative on the other, will it heat the bolt,

Stus-List Re: Fwd: GEICO/Stillwater Homeowners Insurance (KMM116199747V4353L0KM)

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Yes, please ignore. Thanks

On Thu, Apr 29, 2021, 7:46 AM Adam Hayden  wrote:

> Was this sent to the list in error?
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>
> --
> *From:* Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 29, 2021 11:27:02 AM
> *To:* C&C List 
> *Cc:* Kevin Driscoll 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fwd: GEICO/Stillwater Homeowners Insurance
> (KMM116199747V4353L0KM)
>
>
> -- Forwarded message -
> From: *Kevin Driscoll* 
> Date: Thu, Apr 29, 2021, 7:21 AM
> Subject: Re: GEICO/Stillwater Homeowners Insurance (KMM116199747V4353L0KM)
> To: 
>
>
> Thank you LaTonya. We are working to get this resolved. It would be
> helpful if we were to know what area you are looking to see repaired. There
> is the house and a separate detached garage. There is some of the vinyl
> siding with chips in corners from impacts etc. The original wood siding and
> tar paper is still in tact beneath this in all cases. It would be great to
> know what area specifically concerns you so that we can get it taken care
> of.
> Thank you for your patience!
> Kevin
>
> On Thu, Apr 29, 2021, 6:53 AM homepol...@geicomail.com <
> homepol...@geicomail.com> wrote:
>
> Dear Kevin Driscoll:
>
> Policy Number: ND1007427
>
> Thank you for taking the time to send the information to me.
>
>
>
> I have received the following:
>
>
>
> - Photo of the siding
>
>
>
> At this time, I still need:
>
>
>
> - Color photo from farther back so I can confirm the location of the
> siding that was repaired
>
>
>
> *Please submit the requested information prior to the cancellation date of
> 4/30/21: *
>
>
>
> I will continue to work diligently with you to get this resolved.
>
>
>
> I encourage you to reach out to me if you have any questions and I would
> be happy to assist you. The preferred method of contact is email, however
> if you need to speak over the phone my office number is 540-286-7011. My
> office hours are Monday through Friday 9 am - 5:30 pm.
>
>
>
> LaTonya Shelton
>
> Underwriting Specialist
>
> GEICO Insurance Agency, Inc.
>
>
> 
> This email/fax message is for the sole use of the intended
> recipient(s) and may contain confidential and privileged information.
> Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution of this
> email/fax is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
> destroy all paper and electronic copies of the original message.
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Fwd: GEICO/Stillwater Homeowners Insurance (KMM116199747V4353L0KM)

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

-- Forwarded message -
From: Kevin Driscoll 
Date: Thu, Apr 29, 2021, 7:21 AM
Subject: Re: GEICO/Stillwater Homeowners Insurance (KMM116199747V4353L0KM)
To: 


Thank you LaTonya. We are working to get this resolved. It would be helpful
if we were to know what area you are looking to see repaired. There is the
house and a separate detached garage. There is some of the vinyl siding
with chips in corners from impacts etc. The original wood siding and tar
paper is still in tact beneath this in all cases. It would be great to know
what area specifically concerns you so that we can get it taken care of.
Thank you for your patience!
Kevin

On Thu, Apr 29, 2021, 6:53 AM homepol...@geicomail.com <
homepol...@geicomail.com> wrote:

> Dear Kevin Driscoll:
>
> Policy Number: ND1007427
>
> Thank you for taking the time to send the information to me.
>
>
>
> I have received the following:
>
>
>
> - Photo of the siding
>
>
>
> At this time, I still need:
>
>
>
> - Color photo from farther back so I can confirm the location of the
> siding that was repaired
>
>
>
> *Please submit the requested information prior to the cancellation date of
> 4/30/21: *
>
>
>
> I will continue to work diligently with you to get this resolved.
>
>
>
> I encourage you to reach out to me if you have any questions and I would
> be happy to assist you. The preferred method of contact is email, however
> if you need to speak over the phone my office number is 540-286-7011. My
> office hours are Monday through Friday 9 am - 5:30 pm.
>
>
>
> LaTonya Shelton
>
> Underwriting Specialist
>
> GEICO Insurance Agency, Inc.
>
>
> 
> This email/fax message is for the sole use of the intended
> recipient(s) and may contain confidential and privileged information.
> Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution of this
> email/fax is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
> destroy all paper and electronic copies of the original message.
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Perko Strainer / Gasket Size?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

All,
Do you know of the inlet size for the strainer on the 30-2 or similar
boats? The engine is the Yanmar 2GM20. The strainer is the Perko 493/500.
There is also a designation on the glass "858e". I can see the hose coming
off the strainer is Bellowsflex B-2 fuel hose with an I.D. of 5/8" and a
O.D. of 1" (per their specs) connected to what I believe is a cpvc plastic
elbow fitting. I believe I need the 1" gasket set (Perko 0493DP799R Spare
Gasket Kit for 1" and 1-1/4" Intake Water Strainer - Rubber
)
in lieu of the 3/4" gasket set (Perko 0493DP599R Spare Gasket Kit for 1/2"
and 3/4" Intake Water Strainer - Rubber
),
but I could use a second opinion. I am away from the boat, but I wanted to
change these on my next visit. Below are some pictures I scrounged from my
photo albums.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/93t9hkh1bb3MhpaA7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vzyQ95MtcGh7Ee4L8
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Was it difficult to fish the wires to the spreaders and did you hook up a
new switch at the helm station for the spreader lights?



On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 7:20 AM David Swensen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh, Lets talk about your mast and spreaders. What did you use to paint
> them? They look great.
>
> On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 9:54 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I replaced my Aqua Signal with the marine beam.  Perfect replacement
>> fit.  No problem.  Highly recommend.  I also did Aqua Signal LEDs on the
>> spreaders.  Very low profile and they work phenomenally - almost too bright!
>>
>> https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CdFzOH89I3fwlZeumTcWlLxQGST9Mn_S/view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gIzwa9aDe-08QwoXbRkiSKvJpeaHpOkU/view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZQiyoFpaXQ5qMJ82CfCZY1GUoUKmx-MM/view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C9XMVAymHLr3240v5wFePlXiVGKJG6VS/view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 08:55 Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> I need to replace my masthead (steaming)/Deck Light.  The existing Aqua
>>> Signal light doesn't impress me as the deck light lens fell off at some
>>> point and the deck light didn't work.  So, Staying away from Aqua Signal.
>>>
>>> I've been looking and these light range in price from around $100 all
>>> the way up to well over $500.  I've seem Marine Beam, with good reviews, at
>>> about $125 and the Signal Mate, with good reviews at about $450.
>>>
>>> I don't want to spend unnecessarily but, I'm leaning toward the Signal
>>> Mate.   It was good reputation, been around a while and is supposed to be
>>> well made.  Of course the reviews on the Marine beam say they are well
>>> made.  There are plenty of bad reviews about the aqua signal.
>>>
>>> I was hoping some of you could offer some experiences and advise.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Danny
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks - Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Hi All,
Similar to what is being discussed, I have had good success with using
short climbing slings/strops through my toe rail. I order the 12" version
and luggage tag it across about 3-4 slots in the aluminum to spread the
load. I have them at the bow and at two spring locations along each side,
port and starboard. The black strop basically disappears aesthetically
against the black aluminum toe rail. I have been using them for about a
year and no signs of chafe, UV discoloration or degradation, etc. I will
throw them away and put new ones on at first sign of them being worn. They
are strong as heck (5,170lbs test) and at ~$4.50 each, it is hard to argue
with their value or that my time is worth less in order to splice soft
shackles together.
I do connect my docking lines to these strops with strong, but affordable,
aluminum climbing carabiners. These are $7 each with a straight line
working load equivalent of 5,300lbs. Depending on the bale type, there is a
chance for aluminum corrosion due to the saline environment. A couple of
times a year I spray PB blaster on the carabiner and that seems to keep the
natural forces at bay, but they are cheap enough not to worry about
occasional replacement either.  The whole system keeps my boat firmly
attached to the finger and creates an 'easy on, easy off' docking
experience.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081GGD4X6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.rei.com/product/169034/black-diamond-litewire-carabiner?sku=1690340001&store=36&cm_mmc=PLA_Google%7C2170001700551_1690340001%7C92700058208459697%7CBA%7C7170074727195&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnKeCBhDPARIsAFDTLTKVzkFWxH8j3Lo24MRs8cXvjJaoy0CIBguncqlpzcpTbVA3Gy-ssYMaAoL9EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds





On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 10:11 AM Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
> Good to know the soft shackle works well--just built a few for the
> purpose. And good idea on the rubberized carabiner (Sirius topsides also
> painted).
>
> Peter McMinn
>
>  _/)
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 10:01 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Richard,
>>
>> The coated carabiner I referenced states a rated load of 650 lbs.  The
>> one I used to use was in that range.  Touche's slips in both Mandeville and
>> Pensacola are well protected from wave action (except for the occasional
>> party barge/powerboat idiot).
>>
>> I'd think that was adequate if your spring line has some stretch (i.e.
>> three strand).
>>
>> I'm also thinking I can somehow slide some clear vinyl hose over my
>> existing spring hook/carabiner to give it a protective cover.  Otherwise,
>> I'll continue to use the soft shackle alone.
>> --
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 11:42 AM Richard Bush  wrote:
>>
>>> Dennis; I like the Carabiner approach, however, I wonder what the
>>> loading will do to these...do you experience much in the way of surges or
>>> wave action which loads them up?
>>> I understand that in a marina or a backwater slip where there might not
>>> be much loading action, but I am on a river where we get constant wave
>>> action from barges and big cruise types..and then there's the current which
>>> runs at 4-6 knots in the springtime;
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>>
>>> Richard
>>>
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Teak Sole

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Unless your boat never leaves the slip, I would not personally do vinyl
plank flooring. I work in multifamily development (apartment buildings) and
we have miles of vinyl plank installed in our projects. While it is a great
product, I think it would not provide great footing at any kind or heel and
it would be difficult to finish the edges precisely and aesthetically. It
also 'moves' quite a bit, i.e. expands and contracts so that when it is
installed one has to leave 1/4"-1/2" gap at any fixed element, like a wall
or cabinets, which is covered by the wall base trim. This allows for the
vinyl to expand and not push up when constrained.  It is also heavy, even
for our not lightweight boats.




On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 1:29 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I wonder what vinyl plank flooring would look like.
>
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 5:10 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> John
>>
>> We are looking at doing the same.  Our sole is pretty worn as well.  That
>> same plywood here is about double in price.  I think a number of the group
>> here have done this already.
>>
>>
>> Would love to see your before and after pictures as we have a 36 as well.
>> Adam
>> Pictou NS
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I bought the same stuff off Amazon a few years ago that George referenced
above. It was such a nice change and from a grip, comfort, and cooling
standpoint. I will say that the grey layer on top is thin and became
unbonded to the black substrate below, eventually falling off completely.
This may have been from sun/rain exposure over the two years. The black
substrate makes up the bulk of the thickness and is the EVA foam I believe.
While it is still comfortable and slip resistant, the aesthetics are not
ideal. I rubbed off what grey was left  and now the aesthetic is a uniform
black.
I have considered re-applying with a solid color grey or similar and not
the faux weathered teak. I can not justify at this time the Raptor Deck
expense, but would say that it is a superior product.
I do think this budget material would work great down below and would have
many benefits. The only caveat being that dust and grit obviously will seek
the low point in the profile and so you will probably need a dustbuster
handy in lieu of the standard dust pan.
KD




On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 1:37 PM George Cone via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bruno,
>
>
>
> I offer this as a thought, I purchased some of this material as a test,
> planning to remove it and buy the real expensive stuff,  because I was
> concerned how it would hold up under the stress of my dog. An active
> retriever. I was amazed how good it has worked and in-fact bought some more
> to finish the job.
>
>
> Take a look on amazon -- CHURERSHINING EVA Teak Decking Sheet for Boat
> Yacht Marine Floor Carpet Non-Slip and Self-Adhesive Bevel Edge 94.5"x35.4"
> 
>   Thanks, George Cone C&C 40
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2021 4:26 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* Bruno Lachance 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> The cockpit antiskip is long overdue on our 1987 33-2 and even with really
> good deck shoes it is now just unsafe. Our plan is to cover the cockpit
> sole, benches and bridgedeck with 5 mm light grey. The templates are made
> and both companies (Seadeck and Raptor) do custom work. You send theme the
> templates and they send you a quote. But before i send them my precious
> templates,  I would like to have a ballpark estimate, anybody on the list
> that have done the same and could give me a rough estimate. It could be
> from a C&C 29 to a let's say 37.
>
>
>
> I have sailed on boats where the cockpit sole was covered with Raptor deck
> as antiskid. I loved the feel of it and the grip is really good and more
> comfy. I would prefer this to paint.
>
>
>
> I know i could also buy a sheet of the same stuff and cut it myself, but i
> want it to look professional if the price is not outrageous.
>
>
>
> Thank you!
>
>
>
> Bruno Lachance
>
> Bécassin, C&C 33-2
>
> New-Richmond, Qc
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Small Cabin Stove

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Brad,
I installed the propane Dickinson Cozy Cabin Heater on our 30mkII that we
keep in Gig Harbor, so the same climate. We have only had it for a few
months but it has allowed us to anchor out now any winter weekend we want
to and we do. We never spend nights at the dock. Coldest nights using it
have been in low 30's so far, but above freezing. We were as comfortable as
could be with the setting just above  low. I would be willing to be it
would take care of your 36 just fine on Med-high in our climate that is, if
you were wanting a simpler, cheaper heat source without the big Charlie
Noble on deck. My heater was $475 Go-2-Marine (I think.) The high setting
would definitely work for you in my opinion, especially if you move the air
around with a fan. I have less waterline than you of course, but quite a
bit of interior volume in the Rob Ball boats.
There are detractors of the Cozy Cabin because it uses cabin air for
combustion (I am sure we will hear from them shortly), but there is a built
in, automatic low oxygen shutoff for a fail safe, and we always have
hatches cracked throughout the boat anyway. There is almost no danger from
asphyxiation due to lack of oxygen in my opinion.
Flag me down next time you see us swinging on the hook. We were on Lake
Union at MOHAI for a weekend just before Christmas. Too bad I did not get
this message two weeks ago, you could have stopped by!
Kevin
"Osprey"

Kevin Driscoll



On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 6:00 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brad
>
> Thank you,
>
> The heater is a propane Dickenson 9000 furnace.  It is great to take the
> chill out on a damp day and can become quite warm own below over the course
> of an evening.   It's a closed system so draws air down the flu(as opposed
> from the cabin)  There is a Dickenson 12000 that has a slightly higher BTU
> which probably would work better for the 36.  Dickenson also manufactures
> diesel and solid fuel stoves for those that don't want propane appliances
> down below.
>
> Here on the Canadian east coast we get alot of damp and cool evenings.
> Adam Hayden
> C&C 36
> Pictou NS
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>
> --
> *From:* Brad Crawford via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 6, 2021, 9:01 p.m.
> *To:* 'Adam Hayden via CnC-List'
> *Cc:* Brad Crawford
> *Subject:* Stus-List Small Cabin Stove
>
> Hi Adam,
>
> Nice table and layout in your 36.  Does that little heating stove work
> well for you?  What brand is it and what fuel does it burn?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Brad Crawford
>
> C&C 36
>
> Seattle
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List C&C30 mkII holding tank hose routing

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Interesting all. My waste hose does go through the wet locker, then turns
aft through the cockpit locker bulkhead, then vertical and inboard over the
water heater, then aft along the inboard side of the cockpit locker (under
the plywood floor) and then drops into the top of the tank. I imagine this
is the way other's have it. However, I do have the aft deck fitting cap
that says 'water' on it and always assumed it was a replacement cap for
someone who couldn't find one that said 'waste.' After reading this thread
I am not so sure someone has not converted my water tank to waste back in
the day.
I also still have the overboard discharge with a diverter valve in addition
to a macerator, which in theory could pump a full holding tank overboard,
but 1" macerator output line is actually clogged with petrified $hit and
has been since we bought the boat 7 years ago. (Perhaps I should not admit
that in a public forum?) The macerator pump fitting also is broken and so
necessitates a replacement macerator, but I haven't found the desire to
spend the $200 for a new pump which is illegal for me to use anyway. All
this being said, I would not eliminate the overboard on my boat in case of
an 'emergency' with the holding tank full. Do not tell the Federales.




On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 3:02 PM Jennifer and Julian Norris <
j...@bellaliant.net> wrote:

> Kevin,
>
> My boat has/had the same tanks as yours, all in aluminum, and all
> configured as fresh water tanks which are plumbed to a manifold on the port
> side near the pressure pump. The tank under the settee was removed by a
> previous owner - I assume it sprung a leak. I plan to keep the vee berth
> tank as fresh water, find a replacement tank for the settee for additional
> fresh water, and convert the aft tank to a holding tank so that I end up
> with the same configuration that you have.
>
> Currently waste water from the head is routed along the bulkhead behind
> the head and into the wet locker. Instead of going through the bulkhead to
> the cockpit locker as yours does, mine is routed to a through hull under
> the sink. I was trying to decide whether I should go through the bulkhead
> immediately behind the head or keep the original route to the hanging
> locker then go through the bulkhead there to get to the cockpit locker -
> sounds like option number two was the factory routing. If you are able to
> snap a picture of where the waste line goes through the bulkhead in the
> hanging locker on its way to the cockpit locker I would be grateful.  I
> think the trick will be to avoid the hot water heater and the fiberglass
> shelf near the hull, and have the pipe come through in a location where it
> can make the necessary bends to reach the top of the tank. Does you waste
> pipe pass over the top of the hot water tank or between it and the hull?
>
> Thanks very much for replying to my post - the help from other C&C30-2
> owners is much appreciated!
>
> Julian
>
> On 8/19/2020 1:19 PM, Kevin Driscoll wrote:
>
> Julian,
> I have a plastic holding tank in that location with a deck fitting
> directly above set up from the factory that way I believe. Waste lines lead
> from the head, through the bottom of the adjacent wet locker, and just
> under the cockpit locker floor to the top of the holding tank, which is
> just aft of the 6gal hot water tank. Are you sure the aluminum tank is not
> a waste tank? My factory water tanks are under the vee berth and another
> under the starboard settee, both plastic. We are on our boat this weekend,
> so if you email a reminder I will try to get a photo for you.
> 30-2 Osprey, Gig Harbor
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 9:06 AM Julian Norris via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I’ve recently purchased a 1989 C&C30-2 which is not plumbed with a
>> holding tank. There is an aluminum fresh water tank beneath the starboard
>> aft locker that has an original manufactures label that calls it a waste
>> tank. My guess is that these boats came from the factory configured with
>> this tank plumbed as either a fresh water tank or a holding tank. I’d like
>> to repurpose my tank as a holding tank. Most of the connections seem
>> straightforward but I’m trying to decide on the best routing for the black
>> water pipe between the head and the tank. Does anybody have a C&C30-2 with
>> the aft tank setup from the factory as a holding tank? If so please provide
>> some details about how the hose is routed from the head, through the
>> bulkhead, to the tank.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Julian
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
___

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every one is grea

Re: Stus-List C&C30 mkII holding tank hose routing

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Julian,
I have a plastic holding tank in that location with a deck fitting directly
above set up from the factory that way I believe. Waste lines lead from the
head, through the bottom of the adjacent wet locker, and just under the
cockpit locker floor to the top of the holding tank, which is just aft of
the 6gal hot water tank. Are you sure the aluminum tank is not a waste
tank? My factory water tanks are under the vee berth and another under the
starboard settee, both plastic. We are on our boat this weekend, so if you
email a reminder I will try to get a photo for you.
30-2 Osprey, Gig Harbor




On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 9:06 AM Julian Norris via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ve recently purchased a 1989 C&C30-2 which is not plumbed with a holding
> tank. There is an aluminum fresh water tank beneath the starboard aft
> locker that has an original manufactures label that calls it a waste tank.
> My guess is that these boats came from the factory configured with this
> tank plumbed as either a fresh water tank or a holding tank. I’d like to
> repurpose my tank as a holding tank. Most of the connections seem
> straightforward but I’m trying to decide on the best routing for the black
> water pipe between the head and the tank. Does anybody have a C&C30-2 with
> the aft tank setup from the factory as a holding tank? If so please provide
> some details about how the hose is routed from the head, through the
> bulkhead, to the tank.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Julian
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Cozy Cabin Heater Install examples?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I did consider it. Not too expensive but I appreciated the smaller hole in
my coach roof of the cozy cabin and very low profile flue cap on deck. The
chimneys of the other heaters do not belong on the foredeck of a sailboat
in my opinion. The cozy should work well for our boat from what I can tell.

On Fri, Aug 7, 2020, 1:19 PM Ken Heaton  wrote:

> Did you consider the Dickinson Marine Newport P9000 Propane Fireplace ?
> Was that one too expensive for your application?
>
> The  Newport heaters is equipped with a flexible stainless double walled
> vent pipe and a combination deckfitting/exhaust cap. Fresh air is pulled
> from outside, through the outer pipe into the combustion chamber while
> exhaust gas leaves the vessel through the inner pipe. The air from inside
> the cabin is not being used for combustion so a fresh air vent is not
> needed. Since this unit has isolated combustion, the exhaust gases are
> being taken out via the chimney so no moisture is being created inside the
> cabin.
>
> It has an electric fan but the fan only draws 0.2 amps, is 12 volts.  You
> don't need to use the fan on a low heat setting, only on medium to high
> heat.
>
> You do need a minimum of 20" of run for the chimney.
>
> http://dickinsonmarine.com/product/newport-p9000-propane-fireplace/
>
>
> http://dickinsonmarine.com/dm/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Propane-Heater-P9P12-Manual-2020.pdf
>
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Fri, 7 Aug 2020 at 13:04, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>> I have purchased and I am planning my install of a Dickinson Cozy Cabin
>> Heater (propane) on our C&C 30 mk II. We are not liveaboards, but we do use
>> our boat year round here in the PNW and I miss being able to anchor on cold
>> weekend nights due to a lack of an efficient heat source. Thus the Cozy
>> Cabin. (Please save the safety lecture if you are so inclined as the
>> fixture does have a low oxygen shut off and a flame out gas shut off. We
>> have CO2 alarms, propane sniffer, and always have hatches cracked.)
>> I am planning on installing it on the starboard side, forward bulkhead. I
>> am plotting the location of the exhaust port and I think I am going to go
>> more or less straight up and then angle to starboard so in theory, end up
>> with the exhaust port co-planar with the cabin trunk. I welcome other's
>> input however. I do not like drilling a hole in my cabin top, but it is an
>> ~ 30 yr old boat and life is too short to stay in the marina! See pictures
>> here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2cpqVEfyLZ2B8EoP6
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Cozy Cabin Heater Install examples?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Hi All,
I have purchased and I am planning my install of a Dickinson Cozy Cabin
Heater (propane) on our C&C 30 mk II. We are not liveaboards, but we do use
our boat year round here in the PNW and I miss being able to anchor on cold
weekend nights due to a lack of an efficient heat source. Thus the Cozy
Cabin. (Please save the safety lecture if you are so inclined as the
fixture does have a low oxygen shut off and a flame out gas shut off. We
have CO2 alarms, propane sniffer, and always have hatches cracked.)
I am planning on installing it on the starboard side, forward bulkhead. I
am plotting the location of the exhaust port and I think I am going to go
more or less straight up and then angle to starboard so in theory, end up
with the exhaust port co-planar with the cabin trunk. I welcome other's
input however. I do not like drilling a hole in my cabin top, but it is an
~ 30 yr old boat and life is too short to stay in the marina! See pictures
here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2cpqVEfyLZ2B8EoP6
___

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Re: Stus-List 35 MK3 lifting hull off keel

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Here is a keel rebedding project on a C&C 115. Done with 5200, which makes
sense to me given no one can guarantee there will never be movement at the
joint and epoxy is a bit brittle. That being said, I also see the merits of
the epoxy route. I wonder what production yards are going with?
https://youtu.be/ocimxatO2Ig

KD




On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 7:22 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The bolts are vertical. After you lift the boat, cover the bilge, and
> flush each of the bolt holes from underneath the boat, using a hose. Mine
> had a terrible smell. There was also a very large void around the forward
> keel bolt. It was so large that it took about a gallon of epoxy to fill it.
> Before remounting the keel, the yard ground the bottom of the stub and the
> top of the keel, and epoxied them together. Then they epoxied one or two
> layers of fiberglass cloth to the smile. It's been more than ten years, and
> the smile has never returned.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 6:08 AM David Swensen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I purchased the owners manual, which has a diagram of the keel hull
>> joint. The diagram shows the keel bolts to be at an angle and not vertical.
>> This would make it tricky to raise the hull off the keel.
>> The bolts appear to be vertical when looking at them in the cabin. Can
>> anyone who has lifted the hull from the keel please comment on the angle of
>> the bolts?
>> Thanks.
>> David Swensen
>> S/v Freya
>> 35 MK3
>> Salem, MA
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
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>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List installation of tack fitting for cruising kite / assym

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Alan,
I would love to see a picture of the rig you mentioned. Which boat is it at
Rose City?
Thank you
Kevin (30mkII Osprey, Crew Velocity)



Kevin Driscoll



On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 7:09 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One of the members of my yacht club uses his spinnaker pole. He rolls it
> out on the anchor roller (the anchor roller has a SS strap to keep the pole
> from rising). The aft end of the pole snaps onto a padeye mounted on the
> deck. Location of the padeye is determined by how far out you want the pole
> to go.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 7:00 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> No anchor roller?  It's not a perfect sprit but many of us use it.
>> Another option is to use the plastic cup hook from ATN.  I think that is
>> the only best option if your tack attachment has to go aft of the
>> headstay/furler.
>>
>> https://www.atninc.com/atn-tacker-sailing-equipment.shtml
>> 
>>
>> The very best bet is to get the tack way out in front.  With a narrow
>> slot between the head stay and spin luff you'll have only the option to
>> jibe outside.  I think it is easier to do inside jibes if you have a large
>> enough slot.
>>
>> As for reusing stem fasteners (if you accept a narrow slot and forego an
>> anchor roller or bow sprit).  I like the idea.  Make sure that they are
>> already large enough diameter.  I'm thinking 3/8ths.  When you buy the
>> eyebolt make sure that it is a shoulder eye.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 30, 2020, 09:34 Bailey White via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I am working to install a fitting on the bow in front of the headstay
>>> for a tack line for a kite on my C&C 36.  Wanted to get recommendations
>>> from the group.  I see two options:
>>>
>>> 1) install a padeye where two bolts from the stainless stem connect to
>>> the bow casting.  The area is small to work as it is inside a recessed area
>>> and the load would be at angle.
>>> 2) drill through the casting and install a long bolt / shaft to attach
>>> tack fittings.  This may be easier to install but would let the tack
>>> fitting shift side to side along the shaft unless I lash it to one side.
>>>
>>> Welcome advice and input.
>>>
>>> Bailey White
>>> C&C 36
>>> Atlanta, GA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
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>>
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

We anchored out in Gig Harbor  last weekend close to Morning Mist, the '73
C&C 48 on Yachtworld. Very pretty boat and I am generally not overly
interested in classics/classic lines. It appears that the asking price just
dropped last month as well to the new bargain low of $187,000.
https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1973/c-c-custom-48-2420172/




On Wed, Jul 22, 2020 at 4:07 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the compliment.
>
> I recall a race on the South Shore years ago.  Whistling Wind II was
> inshore of us powered up with a 170 and screaming down the beach.  Really
> impressive sight.  Yes, WWII was a beautiful boat.
>
> Maybe you recall 2003 when Touche', Whistling Wind II and Tiare (a red Cal
> 48? for listers) all won their classes in the LPRC.  As each boat
> representative came up to claim prizes, the crowd would shout "Red boat!
> Red boat!"
>
> Of course, for our success, the PHRF gods docked each of the red boats.  :(
>   --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Jul 22, 2020 at 5:07 PM Edward Levert via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dennis with all due respect the all time prettiest C&C on Lake
>> Pontchartrain was Whistling Wind II a Redline 41. She unfortunately was a
>> casualty of Hurricane Rita having survived Katrina weeks earlier. That
>> leaves Touché as the current top beauty.
>>
>> Ed Levert
>> C&C 34 Briar Patch
>> New Orleans
>>
>> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Parting an ‘89 30’ CNC

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I am interested in some items too, though I can never remember at
the moment. A parted parts list would be great. Is there a good condition
mainsail? Was the boat wrecked or abandoned to neglect? Where is the boat
located? Thank you!


Kevin Driscoll



On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 2:03 PM Allan Rheaume via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is there a website with details about this boat? How to go about
> purchasing parts, etc?
>
> Thanks,
> Al Rheaume
> 30-2 Drumroll
>
> On Friday, July 17, 2020, 04:32:07 p.m. EDT, JP Mail via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I’m standing in the salvage yard.
> All kinds of everything for
> ZCC30148B989
> King Salvage.
> I live 10 Minutes away.
> Motor is not seized. 3 GM  i think.
> Jon
> jon.peterpr...@gmail.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I run a 2 micron in my primary Racor as Josh mentioned and on the advice of
the teacher of a 'small marine diesel engine class' I took. I never wait
for the engine to stall before changing and I do not have a guage. What I
do have and maintain is a clean tank and use biobor religiously. I change
my primary annually or before a big offshore trip, for peace of mind. Hell
of a lot easier to use a 2 micron in the primary and leave the downstream 2
micron secondary engine mounted filter in place. I top off the primary
Racor with Diesel when I put it back together so I never have to bleed.



On Sat, May 23, 2020, 2:31 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> David,
>
> I wasn’t on board, but I think one was a precaution and the other because
> of a stall-out.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
> On May 23, 2020, at 5:02 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Edd- How did you know you needed to change the filter twice on the
> trip down?  Were there symptoms or just being cautious?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> On May 23, 2020, at 4:00 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Bo,
>
> Much will depend on how much you use your engine, how clean your tank is,
> and the quality of fuel you are using.
>
> When the Enterprise came down from New York, she was practically motoring
> the entire time, adding many hours of engine use in three weeks. For that
> trip, the filters were changed two times.
>
> For normal use, like Josh, I have a fine raycor filter and change that
> maybe once every several years - or if I can see notable clogging or the
> engine stalls. The filter on the engine Itself I change once every three
> years or so.
>
> I used to do oil changes and oil filter changes every fall before laying
> up for the winter. Since there is no real layup season down here in
> Florida, I still keep to my fall schedule.
>
> My engine (Beta 30) came with a maintenance schedule based on engine
> hours. If you have that for your engine, that should be an excellent guide.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
> On May 23, 2020, at 12:59 PM, General Gao via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Hi everyone,
>
> Just wondering, how often do you have to change diesel filters? or how do
> you tell it is time to change?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bo
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Re: Stus-List Fuel Transfer Pump

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I've been using a shaker siphon the last two years. Simple, easy to store
and fool proof. Works well offshore during fuel transfers too. $8 on
Amazon.

On Sun, May 17, 2020, 2:50 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a siphon tube for this purpose. The boat
> we did our course on last year used this method and it seemed very
> civilized and spill resistant, as long as you normally carry fuel jugs, as
> we do. Fill them on the dock, place aboard, then siphon into the tank at
> your convenience. Even the best jugs always seem to drip at the spout, so
> the siphon method avoids this. I like the idea of placing on the
> cockpit sole once siphon is started to prevent overfills.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 2:23 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> A simple siphon pump can easily empty a fuel can into the diesel tank
>> with no av/dc power required. It may take a while depending on the tubing
>> diameter.
>>
>> A priming style bulb can be used to get it going—unless you like the
>> taste of diesel fuel and start it by ‘mouth’ or otherwise get the tubing
>> filled with fuel.
>>
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> 1995 C&C 36XL/kcb
>>
>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
>>
>> On Saturday, May 16, 2020, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>> A friend just sent me an ad for a battery-operated fuel pump for
>> transferring fuel from a jerry can to the Enterprise’s fuel tank.
>>
>> Currently, I’m pouring from the jerry can directly into the tank, but
>> there is always some spillage and cleanup.
>>
>> This looks like a nifty solution, but I wonder if it falls into the
>> too-good-to-be-true category.
>>
>> Anyone here use one of these? Pros? Cons?
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>> ———-
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>> www.StarshipSailing.com
>> ———-
>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>> ———-
>> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 29s with a Dodger

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I were going to replace my dodger, I would use this method for a hard
dodger that emulates a canvas version but with better transparency:
https://www.bwsailing.com/roger-dodger/

On Fri, May 15, 2020, 5:47 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Jeremy; your question is a good one, and it is a good idea to get the
> information about what the former owners had for a dodger;  the other 29
> owners on this list will give you some excellent ideas; however, I
> suggest that you take a deeper look at the differing types of dodgers
> before spending hard earned bucks on a your dodger.
> This inquiry starts with some questions; 1. what type of sailing are you
> planning; racing, cruising, day sailing, etc; each of these affects the
> type and design of a dodger...for example, racers will want a smaller
> dodger for visibility and access to cabin top winches and gear; cruisers,
> will want maximum coverage for both rain and sun, so they will want larger
> dodgers;
> 2. What area of the country are you sailing?   Northern climates usually
> have smaller and more closed in dodgers to ward off cold spray from waves
> and wind, while in warmer climates, it is common to forego the dodger
> altogether and go with a large bimini;
> 3. What's in your wallet; a good canvas dodger can get pricey, and there
> are lots of extras, like leather edges, hand holds and fittings and
> provisions for solar panels; and on the other end there are kits available
> where you can make your own;
>
> We had a 29 II model and we had a dodger custom made to allow the hatch to
> be open even in rains, (light rains-not squalls), it worked well for us,
> but we didn't race and it was worth the expense for us...
> So, some things to think about...and let us know what you decide upon!
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Jeremy Dinsel via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jeremy Dinsel 
> Sent: Wed, May 13, 2020 7:46 pm
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 29s with a Dodger
>
>
> I’m looking to add a dodger to my C&C 29 (the original model). It used to
> have one, but one of the previous owners removed it before I ever saw it.
> I’m wondering if any of the C&C 29 owners on this list wouldn’t mind
> sending me a photo of their dodger along with any statements of affirmation
> that adding such a costly item to the boat is worth it. My friend, and
> fellow C&C owner Lee has already advised me that I’m not likely to get the
> return on investment when I eventually sell the boat, but it might make the
> boat easier to sell when the time comes. I think I’m okay with this because
> I think the dodger will help with keeping some of the cold pacific
> northwest winds off me when I’m relaxing in full foulies in the cockpit,
> staring at the sun with eyes closed (or the clouds blocking the sun).
>
> Best regards and thanks in advance!
>
> Jeremy Dinsel
> S/V Whisper, 1977 C&C 29
>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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Re: Stus-List Panel switches/circuit breakers

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

David, I presume you have the same set up as Josh. If you turn the
knobs/screws on your switch panel you should find the breakers behind,
unlabeled. My 1990 30-2 is wired just as Josh suggested and is quite a bit
more 'modern' than the way the pre-Rob Ball era boats are set up, from
what I can tell.
KD


Kevin Driscoll



On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 9:27 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Depends.  If they look like little "coffee pot" switches then they are
> just switches.  If they look more like a breaker and are mount with the
> operator through a hole in the panel with 2 screws o  either side then it
> is a breaker.  If it is a breaker then loosening the screws and removing
> the unit will reveal an amperage marking.  If it is a switch then the
> breaker is elsewhere.  My 37+ has a switch panel that makes a very clean
> and compact power distribution panel.  Behind the panel is a row of
> breakers and terminal boards that provide the over current protection.
> I'll share pics off list.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020, 12:19 David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  I always tell my students, “there are no dumb questions”, but this is
>> one where I really should already know the answer.  For some reason, I got
>> it in my head that the switches on my panel were circuit breakers.  I don’t
>> think I have ever had one pop, and I realized the other day that none of
>> them are labelled with an amperage.  So now I am wondering if they are just
>> on/off switches.  I have looked online and see that you can buy similar
>> panel switches that incorporate a circuit breaker and those are labelled
>> with the amperage.   So are these breakers or switches?  If switches, how
>> are the original panel circuits fused or maybe the question should be, how
>> are they supposed to be fused?  Thanks- Dave
>>
>> David Knecht
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List Covid 19 update MD & USVI

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

37,858 cases and 387 dead in New York City as of today 3/26/2020. The death
rate will climb dramatically this week as the worst effects of the virus
are said to present themselves around 10 days+ after infection. The results
of NYC testing for Covid-19 are 28% of those tested are positive vs 8%
positive for the national average suggesting that the number of cases will
continue to climb rapidly for some time. The United States now has 81,578
cases diagnosed, more than any other country in the world as I understand
it.  Given that I expect many on this list are in the vulnerable age range,
I would suggest to err on the side of safety where at all possible.
Stay healthy and sail fast!
KD




On Thu, Mar 26, 2020 at 2:24 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was in Rock Hall but even the bathrooms were closed...
>
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of CHARLES
> SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 26, 2020 4:07:30 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Covid 19 update MD & USVI
>
> Hi Andy,
> Were owners working on their own boats?
>
> On March 26, 2020 at 11:06 AM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Just departed Oxford Boatyard. They were flat out with summer prep and
> launching boats.
> Andy
> Masquerade
> On
> Chesapeake Bay
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> www.burtonsailing.com
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Mar 26, 2020, at 10:15, Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Joe,
>
> The townies in Rock Hall have been raising hell over out-of-Town(ers)
> coming in town and buying stuff (liquor in particular) since PA state
> stores are closed, etc.
>
> Thanks for the update.  Some of the other marinas in and around Rock Hall
> haven’t said more than they are closed to customers but have their staff
> working.
>
> One of these days Rock Hall will figure out what it wants to be when it
> grows up
>
> Neil
>
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Joe Della
> Barba via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 26, 2020 8:09:38 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* Joe Della Barba 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Covid 19 update MD & USVI
>
>
> From the Haven Harbour website:
>
> March 25, 2020 – Due to a clarification provided by the Maryland
> Governor's Office, our boatyard and yacht services department will resume
> non-public operations effective Wednesday, March 25 at 8:00 a.m. ET. The
> Inn at Haven Harbour is reopened to the public and will begin accepting new
> reservations going forward.
>
>- Offices will resume operation as normal, however access to marine
>goods and fuel dock will remain closed to the public indefinitely. For
>parts assistance, please contact us during regular business hours at (410)
>778-6697 for payment and on-property delivery.
>- Please keep in mind that we are operating on a reduced staff, as
>employees have been asked to work only if they are healthy, able and
>willing.
>- As requested by Governor Larry Hogan, customers who are from or have
>recently visited the tri-state area (New York, New Jersey and Connecticut)
>will not be permitted access to our properties and are recommended to
>self-quarantine at home for a minimum of 14 days.
>
> Though our yacht services department remains in operation, we continue to
> urge all customers and visitors to heed the mandates posted by area
> governors and stay at home. We will continue to monitor this situation and
> make changes as needed in accordance with national and state health
> recommendations and sanctions. Thank you.
>
> Seems some common sense has prevailed, the marinas are not supposed to be
> closed to the point of blocking access to boats.
>
> Joe
> Coquina
>
> ___
>
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>
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> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 34+ Idler Pulleys and Cabin Top Compression

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

 Thanks again for perspectives.
 Re: 34+/ 36xl use for us. For background, we own a C&C 30 mkII, which is
probably the most tender boat under the brand, the 30-1 being the stiffest.
Any boat I sail otherwise is going to be stiffer and given the 34+/36xl's
with a 7'-3" draft and bulb, and a 39% ballast ratio, I am surprised to
hear the boat being overly tender, though I understand it has generous sail
area. Mostly our sailing consists of Puget Sound gunkholing with occasional
double handed club racing and less frequent Pacific offshore work, either
single or double handed. I wouldn't consider us bluewater cruisers since we
are not retired and  unlikely to weigh the boat down with all our
shore-side possessions etc. A passage down the west coast or the Single
Handed Transpac race are on my bucket list, so it would be nice not to own
a boat that precludes either of those things, but we are not buying around
those parameters either. I race somewhat frequently inshore and offshore on
a variety of boats with what I would consider powerful rigs so I am not too
worried about the sail area of the 34+ or 36xl. That being said, I would be
interested to hear from owners with the 7'3" draft and decent sails, if
there is some reason the boat is more tender than I would expect.

On Wed, Feb 26, 2020, 7:20 AM Stephen Thorne via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ve owned Deja Vu for 10 years and raced & cruised all over and across
> the Gulf of Mexico, many times.  I always had a full crew 3 + 1 for
> offshore sailing.  We did experience a failure of the steering system idler
> plate and ended up completely rebuilding the steering system.  Lesson
> learned - open up the steering system on any boat with an Edson steering
> gear and check/replace pets including cables and plate.
>
> In light air the boat is fast and responsive but it’s a skill set that
> needs to be developed to get maximum performance from the boat.  In heavy
> air 18-20 or more, something magical happens with this boat. While most
> sailboats mover faster in stronger winds, that’s not what I’m talking
> about.  This design sails way past its parameters for speed off the wind
> with the main single reefed & a 110 forward.  I think maximum speed is
> rated at 8.1 knts but I’ve got many anecdotal stories/examples of sustained
> speeds > 10 knts and not simply running down waves.  Sustained over hours
> of heavy weather sailing.  The part that’s so impressive is that this hull
> design (wing keel) and deep rudder etc, the steering is controlled and
> precise.
>
> I think the wing keel (many pros & cons) has an amplified dampening effect
> at these speeds resulting in excellent steering characteristics in big wind
> sailing.  Really would like to hear from Rob Ball on this one.
>
> Just my two cents
>
> Stephen Thorne
> C&C34+ Deja Vu
>
> On Wed, Feb 26, 2020 at 8:21 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have owned a 34+ for about 7 years and can comment on your intended
>> use.  First, my boat had none of the issues you describe, so those are not
>> common problems from my perspecitve.  I have done alot of work on my boat,
>> but none structural or because of failures or age.  The previous owners of
>> my boat took good care of her and I am guessing yours did not.  All the
>> changes I made to my boat were to improve an already great boat.  I could
>> have done none of them and been happily sailing her.   I love my boat and
>> it has been the perfect boat for my wife and I.  It is very competitive
>> racing and very comfortable cruising.  I have not seen a boat of her size
>> that I would trade for.  I moved from a 34 and the extra space and improved
>> design makes the 34+ a wonderful racer/cruiser.  We cruise locally around
>> Long Island Sound and I frequently sail and race her single-handed or
>> short-handed.
>> That being said, I do not believe it is the boat for what you describe as
>> your target adventures.  I agree with Josh- the boat is easily
>> overpowered.  Yes, you can reef early and often, but I would not want to be
>> out on the ocean with two youngsters on my boat.  I have chartered a number
>> of boats in the Caribbean that I have sailed in 30+ knots of wind and felt
>> totally comfortable and under control with nearly full sail.  My boat in 25
>> knots feels overpowered no matter what sail plan is used (when short
>> handed).  I have sailed her in 25 knots of wind with only a 100% genoa and
>> felt overpowered.  I have the wing keel, and that may be a factor, but I
>> don’t think the boat was designed with blue water cruising in mind.  She is
>> fast in light air races because of that design.  If 

Re: Stus-List 34+ Idler Pulleys and Cabin Top Compression

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Appreciate everyone's advice as always! I am not sure at this point if we
would even make a very low offer for fear it would be accepted. The reality
is we love our 30-2, but with the amount of weekends we spend on her (Gig
Harbor currently) with a 3 year old and 5 year old, we feel like we are
cramped on space. I would also like a bigger stiffer boat that I could race
a bit more and be relatively comfortable on for moderate off shore passages
say from  Washington to San Francisco and Mexico etc. The 34+/36xl has
always felt about right for us. I think we are going to wait for another
and compromise a bit less. With our careers and a couple of hands on rental
properties, my wife is nervous about a project boat and I think I am
beginning to feel the same way.
Thanks!

On Tue, Feb 25, 2020, 5:05 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good strategy to get something before paying for a survey.  Then when
> surveys come back you be able to negotiate further.
>
> Fred Hazzard
>
> On Tue, Feb 25, 2020 at 4:20 PM bwhitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> While I agree with,  and respect Josh, having done the steering work on
>> our 37/40+ with similar but not as bad a problem, plan on a minimum of 3
>> days work to pull & replace the idler plate.  Given your comments about the
>> condition, you need to plan on a bunch of other issues you can't see as of
>> now.  Get a GOOD surveyor, but weigh the cost of the survey compared to
>> your price point in both time and effort to get it into the condition
>> you'll want and need. You might even run the issues past the owner now,
>> saying "Realistically, x, y, and z need repair, and that alone totals
>> $xx,xxx.  Will you be willing to take that and more off to get it back to a
>> boat worth $yy,yyy?  If not, walk away before even getting the survey.
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> Date: 2/25/20 2:20 PM (GMT-06:00)
>> To: C&C List 
>> Cc: Josh Muckley 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ Idler Pulleys and Cabin Top Compression
>>
>> The original carbon steel idler is no longer available from edson.  You'd
>> have to make modifications to the deck in order to replace.  I thought I
>> remembered the idler being ~$400.  Maybe I'm mistaken.  The replacement
>> cables are ~$100.  The work isn't that hard but it is a little bit of a
>> PITA.
>>
>> The window delamination would not seriously concern me.
>>
>> The engine water flow shouldn't be too hard to overcome.  Sometimes an
>> old impeller just takes on a set and fails to prime itself.
>>
>> The sails are gonna set you back ~$3500 to $5000 each to replace.
>>
>> Upholstery is gonna be expensive.  $5k to $10k
>>
>> If it's the boat you want and you can get a discount then I really
>> haven't heard too much that would discourage me.  I'm a risk taker and a
>> DIYerso YMMV.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 17:52 Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> List,
>>> We looked at a 1990 34+ this weekend and I could use your input on two
>>> items that were most concerning. The boat was much more of a project boat
>>> than we anticipated unfortunately. We hoped to get out for a sail, but it's
>>> not leaving the slip before some work is done. So obvious issues are below
>>> and photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/V5YhFQzmjZwnCytf6
>>>
>>>1. *Heavy Rusting at base of the steering pedestal*: When I first
>>>got on board and noticed the steering was quite stiff and a bit 
>>> 'grinding.'
>>>I thought the steering column lock was on. However, since the idler 
>>> pulleys
>>>and quadrant are above the deck on the 34+ it was easy to see a pile of
>>>large and significant flakes of rust at the base of the pedestal where 
>>> the
>>>cables run aft to the quadrant. This was visible after the quadrant cover
>>>that is part of the cockpit sole was lifted. The cables were also not 
>>> even
>>>seated on the quadrant or the pulleys and were grinding on the gel coat. 
>>> I
>>>have since determined that this rust must have been from the idler plate.
>>>The cables were also shot as you might expect, with broken strands. This
>>

Stus-List 34+ Idler Pulleys and Cabin Top Compression

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

List,
We looked at a 1990 34+ this weekend and I could use your input on two
items that were most concerning. The boat was much more of a project boat
than we anticipated unfortunately. We hoped to get out for a sail, but it's
not leaving the slip before some work is done. So obvious issues are below
and photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/V5YhFQzmjZwnCytf6

   1. *Heavy Rusting at base of the steering pedestal*: When I first got on
   board and noticed the steering was quite stiff and a bit 'grinding.' I
   thought the steering column lock was on. However, since the idler pulleys
   and quadrant are above the deck on the 34+ it was easy to see a pile of
   large and significant flakes of rust at the base of the pedestal where the
   cables run aft to the quadrant. This was visible after the quadrant cover
   that is part of the cockpit sole was lifted. The cables were also not even
   seated on the quadrant or the pulleys and were grinding on the gel coat. I
   have since determined that this rust must have been from the idler plate.
   The cables were also shot as you might expect, with broken strands. This
   appears to be about $700 or so in materials for cables and a new idle
   plates and pulleys. Question is, how difficult is this to address? I will
   say, that the fact that the steering cable was not even on the quadrant or
   pulleys gave me pause about the truthfulness of the owner. We had
   corresponded and talked about going out for a test sail and we drove quite
   a bit to go see the boat. If the cables were off my quadrant I am pretty
   darn sure I would notice. There was no way to turn the rudder so how would
   a test sail have been possible?
   2. *Core delamination at port light: *Another item that gave me pause
   was a split/de-laminated core at the forward portion of the fixed port
   light. It felt dry, but I could make it compress/decompress with very
   little effort. I was told it was due to the boat being lifted in the wrong
   area by the yard. I suppose this could have been true given that the area
   was about 3-4 aft of the forward bulkhead, where the sling should have
   been. (Again, as an owner, I clearly flag on the lifelines where the
   bulkheads are for the lift operator given that my C&C owner's manual on my
   Rob Ball 30-2 instructs that the slings should be placed there.) So, what
   is your take on this damage? Is it not a big deal or sign of potentially
   larger demons?

Other items:

   - No cooling water when the engine started and ran. The strainer was
   cleared and the through hull was open so my assumption is that the vanes on
   the impeller are either loose inside the water pump or have already
   migrated into the heat exchanger. I have not had to fix this issue before.
   Major PITA? Expensive?
   - Leaks. There were a number of leaks in the cabin top where the tell
   tale drip of rotten core was showing. I am willing to understand a certain
   amount of this in a 30 y.o. boat, but there may be too much.
   - Upholstery was shot. The video showed some ok looking upholstery, but
   it was much worse in real life. It was worn and stained in a number of
   places and I wondered if the foam was salvagable. What do you think a
   re-uphosltery job would cost on a 34+?
   - Original Mainsail - A 30 y.o. mainsail is not going to flatten or
   point well. When I took the sail cover off there was a small football sized
   bees nest attached to the folds in the mainsail. About how much for a new
   mainsail on a 34+ with full battens and 3 reefs?
   - Jib - Looked older, but I was told it was only sailed 1/2 dozen times
   and was 6-8 years old. I was not able to unfurl it all the way given the
   wind and being stuck in the slip. There was minor mildew spotting near the
   leach and the UV cover looked a bit tired.

There was a bunch of old sailing junk and personal items on board so I was
unable to get a good look in the cabinets and under berths since stuff was
piled on them. In general the boat is not in sellable condition, but I want
to use the experience to educate myself on these issues. Here is a link to
some photos. I am keeping the location and boat name private since the
owner says he is selling it.
Thanks everybody.
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Re: Stus-List Moisture Meter recommendation from Amazon or HD?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I bought a cheapish Klein moisture meter from Amazon this morning and it
was delivered this evening for $39. What I am hearing is that 50% think
this approach is good enough to discover problems and 50% think it's
worthless. I'll let you know. The Flir approach is interesting but sounds
like a blunt metric as it measures temperature gradient in lieu of moisture
content.
I appreciate everyone's input. Thank you

On Wed, Feb 19, 2020, 5:37 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That's really good information Charlies, and after reading Josh's post, it
> reminded me to just go tap on the deck where necessary.
>
> I was, however, thinking about our cockpit area which for some magical
> reason had teak installed.  I'm not really looking forward to stripping it
> all off and sealing the holes.  I'd really like to know before I tackle the
> job if there is water in the core of the cockpit deck or seats that is
> going to need remediation.  Those areas under the teak decking I don't
> think will sound out differently, and there is no access to the backside
> for tapping with a hammer.
>
> Great thoughts though!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Moisture Meter recommendation from Amazon or HD?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Hi all,
I am looking for a reasonably priced and quality moisture meter so I can
poke around my boat and others. Does anyone have a recommendation? I do not
need anything too professional, but just accurate enough for DIY level.
Thank you!
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Moorage Gig Harbor Dec 1-15th

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Hi list,
We made a late decision to join the Gig Harbor Christmas Boat Parade and
are looking for guest moorage for Dec 1 -15th. Given the off season, we did
not expect this to be an issue, but other yacht clubs have reserved all the
guest moorage for the event. Does anybody have a lead on a place to keep a
nice 30' C&C in Gig Harbor for two weeks? We not need power, but would not
mind. We have $500k liability insurance.
Thank you!
Kevin
503 875 3493
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Offshore Trip to South Puget Sound

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Hi Dave et al.
The wind was out of the north though I was able to sail up the coast, but
was quite close hauled and used the Yanmar to push through the waves. I did
not see wind below 15 knots, but not above 20 either.
I follow the commercial tow lanes. Info can be found here:
https://wsg.washington.edu/community-outreach/outreach-detail-pages/crabbertowboat-lane-agreements-download-charts-data-and-meetings/
It
is roughly the 50 fathom line. I know others that use this strategy
successfully, but it is not a guarantee some clown will not set his pot out
in the lane.

As you probably know, there are few bail out points except for La Push  and
Grey's Harbor. Some do not consider La Push a bail out point given the
narrow entrance etc, but there is no river bar there like Grey's and the
Columbia and it appears relatively protected from a North wind. Someone I
know that his been up and down the coast countless times said it really is
not a big deal to enter. I have not been in to LaPush myself fwiw. I have
been into Grey's harbor once and I would definitely consult the tide tables
before going over that bar.

KD

On Tue, Jun 11, 2019 at 5:39 PM David Castor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Kevin,
>
> Were you able to (or choose to) sail while headed up WA coast?  Wind is
> generally out of the north.
>
> Also how far off the coast did you go and any issues with crab pots?
> Recommendation that we got was to follow the 50 fathom line.  But still saw
> pot floats.
>
> Congrats on your voyage.
>
> Dave Castor
> Port Angeles, WA
>
> On Tue, Jun 11, 2019 at 11:21 AM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> C&C Owners,
>> Below is an email I sent to friends and sailors about my recent single
>> handed trip from Hood River, Oregon to Olympia, Washington. As the crow
>> flies it is less than 200 miles, but on the water it is up around 550
>> nautical miles. Read below and see the link to my custom lee clothes on the
>> starboard settee.
>> Cheers,
>> Kevin
>>
>> Sailors and Friends,
>> Last week I successfully delivered our boat from Hood River, Oregon to
>> Olympia, Washington. And as Lisa said, "The only thing that got hurt was
>> your lip." (It split from sunburn and salt spray.)
>> The 550 or so single handed miles by myself on 'Osprey' was quite a bit
>> work, but went very well. The leg from the Columbia Bar to Neah Bay was my
>> first solo offshore sail and was completed with no drama. Here were the
>> legs:
>>
>> 0. Hood River to Ilwaco, Washington - ~165miles, done Memorial Day Weekend
>>
>>
>>1. Ilwaco, Wa(Columbia River Bar) to Neah Bay, Wa - 187 nautical
>>miles / ~36hrs, June 2nd,3rd
>>2. Neah Bay to Sequim, Wa - 75 miles / ~11 hrs.  June 4th (very quick
>>with tail wind and flood tide)
>>3. Sequim, Wa to Bainbridge/Blake Island - 70 nautical miles / 12hrs
>>June 5th
>>4. Blake Island to Olymipia, Wa - 45 nautical miles, 10hrs June 6th
>>
>>
>>- Bus / Uber to home at 11pm June 6th and at work Friday 6/7.
>>
>>
>> Here's what worked or otherwise:
>>
>>- *My wife*- Lisa took care of the boys without complaint during last
>>weekend and the better part of last week. Getting permission to sail 
>> alone,
>>15-20 miles offshore into the Pacific, on a small sailboat, for round the
>>clock sailing for the better part of two days, is not something most 
>> people
>>do every day. She has faith in my skills as a sailor, the safety of our
>>boat, and a reasonable tolerance for risk. Nothing is possible without 
>> her.
>>- *My project team- *Filled in for me when I was gone for 4 days last
>>week. Given the stage in construction on our building and project 
>> dynamics,
>>it was important someone or multiple people be on site while I was gone.
>>Allen and Michael pitched in and it was appreciated.
>>- *Columbia River Bar -* I crossed at slack tide at the start of an
>>ebb. I actually began my crossing early so to be sure I was safely over 
>> the
>>bar before the ebb gained momentum. It was a little bumpy, but not
>>dramatic.
>>- *Tow Lanes - *A somewhat common strategy, when not racing and
>>heading up to Cape Flattery, is to take the commercial tow lanes. This in
>>order to reduce the risk of snagging a crab pot. I followed this strategy
>>and went out from the bar to the summer tow lanes, ~15 miles offshore. I
>>saw very few crab pots the whole trip, but did see ~4 and they made me
>>nervous each time.

Stus-List Fwd: Offshore Trip to South Puget Sound

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

C&C Owners,
Below is an email I sent to friends and sailors about my recent single
handed trip from Hood River, Oregon to Olympia, Washington. As the crow
flies it is less than 200 miles, but on the water it is up around 550
nautical miles. Read below and see the link to my custom lee clothes on the
starboard settee.
Cheers,
Kevin

Sailors and Friends,
Last week I successfully delivered our boat from Hood River, Oregon to
Olympia, Washington. And as Lisa said, "The only thing that got hurt was
your lip." (It split from sunburn and salt spray.)
The 550 or so single handed miles by myself on 'Osprey' was quite a bit
work, but went very well. The leg from the Columbia Bar to Neah Bay was my
first solo offshore sail and was completed with no drama. Here were the
legs:

0. Hood River to Ilwaco, Washington - ~165miles, done Memorial Day Weekend


   1. Ilwaco, Wa(Columbia River Bar) to Neah Bay, Wa - 187 nautical miles /
   ~36hrs, June 2nd,3rd
   2. Neah Bay to Sequim, Wa - 75 miles / ~11 hrs.  June 4th (very quick
   with tail wind and flood tide)
   3. Sequim, Wa to Bainbridge/Blake Island - 70 nautical miles / 12hrs
   June 5th
   4. Blake Island to Olymipia, Wa - 45 nautical miles, 10hrs June 6th


   - Bus / Uber to home at 11pm June 6th and at work Friday 6/7.


Here's what worked or otherwise:

   - *My wife*- Lisa took care of the boys without complaint during last
   weekend and the better part of last week. Getting permission to sail alone,
   15-20 miles offshore into the Pacific, on a small sailboat, for round the
   clock sailing for the better part of two days, is not something most people
   do every day. She has faith in my skills as a sailor, the safety of our
   boat, and a reasonable tolerance for risk. Nothing is possible without her.
   - *My project team- *Filled in for me when I was gone for 4 days last
   week. Given the stage in construction on our building and project dynamics,
   it was important someone or multiple people be on site while I was gone.
   Allen and Michael pitched in and it was appreciated.
   - *Columbia River Bar -* I crossed at slack tide at the start of an ebb.
   I actually began my crossing early so to be sure I was safely over the bar
   before the ebb gained momentum. It was a little bumpy, but not dramatic.
   - *Tow Lanes - *A somewhat common strategy, when not racing and heading
   up to Cape Flattery, is to take the commercial tow lanes. This in order to
   reduce the risk of snagging a crab pot. I followed this strategy and went
   out from the bar to the summer tow lanes, ~15 miles offshore. I saw very
   few crab pots the whole trip, but did see ~4 and they made me nervous each
   time.
   - *'Osprey' C&C 30-2 *Though our boat is tender, she has great qualities
   otherwise and is an extremely well designed boat. She carries generous sail
   for her vintage, is relatively light, and has somewhat efficient foils.
   Despite the constant 15-20 knots of wind close hauled, she does not creak
   or flex audibly like other boats I have been on. The molded head liner is
   silent. Our little Yanmar Diesel operated flawlessly at a constant 2800
   rpms (3400 continuous rated) for days on end. I change fuel filters, belts,
   and impellers religiously and that seems to do the trick. The Yanmar is
   dead simple and has never let us down. 'Osprey' is an excellent boat, but a
   few more feet would add some speed and accommodate the boys a bit more
   nicely :)
   - *AIS Vesper XB 8000 *- I bought and installed this AIS transceiver
   just before heading offshore. Having an AIS transceiver was a game changer
   over our previous trip,  when we double handed up the coast. In the ~200
   miles up the coast. I did not see anyone that I could not also see on AIS,
   including pleasure craft.  Also Lisa and Dan were able to track me all the
   way up the coast. The AIS repeated seamlessly on the tablet and phone(s) I
   use for navigation and redundancy and the unit is hardwired to an alarm
   buzzer at the nav station with a mute button. It also sends alarms on my
   phone and tablet.  The Vesper app works very well, was intuitive,
   information rich and overall greatly exceeded my expectations. I would
   highly recommend this product and I am extremely happy with the purchase.
   (We do have a small Garmin GIS on board, but we do not use it for
   navigation specifically. We do not have a hardwired chartplotter or MFD.)
   - *Scopolamine Patch - *I can get sea sick if I am not extremely
   disciplined about going below decks or in rough seas. Our boat is on the
   smaller side and is pretty tender. Furthermore, the wind a steady 15-20
   knts and seas (though not directly on the nose) permitted only close hauled
   motor sailing. Predictably this meant a fair amount of slamming, water on
   the decks, and spray in the cockpit. Not 'green water', but a very lively
   motion for sure. I got sick 3 times, each time when coming back up on deck
   from below. Much of the

Re: Stus-List KVH Quadro Instruments

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I would take these if they are still available. I can pick them up at PYC
after Offshore. Thanks, Kevin

On Sun, May 5, 2019, 9:21 AM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a working system that I took off my boat.  I am offering it free to
> any of you who want it. Just pay for the shipping.
>
> Items included:
> Anemometer wind wand
> 70 feet of mast cable
> All manuals
> Keypad (1) with wire
> Dual displays (4)
> Covers (2)
> NMEA 4910 Interface (2)
> Brain box 4321 (1)
> All connecting cable and connectors.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35-2 concerns

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Walk away. Life is too short and parts too expensive to justify a project
boat IMO.





On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 8:02 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here in BC, good boats seem to move quickly if they are priced fairly.
> There is a C&C 30 for $55K which hasn't sold, and another very nice one at
> $24K which also hasn't sold, but I've watched several average condition
> Catalina 30s sell for 20K in the past year. A Hunter 31 sold last week for
> $25K within a few days.
>
> This 35-2 was listed a year ago for $35K, then dropped to 32K when I saw
> it in January. I offered $20K, and we settled at 22K.
> This boat was surveyed at $38K, but I suspect the previous owner knew the
> surveyor, as there were NO issues found on the survey, which I've never
> seen before. The sketchy wiring alone would usually be mentioned - the mast
> light wires appear to be brown household lamp cord, unless there is marine
> wire that looks just like it. But that doesn't bother me all that much
> since I will eventually replace most of the wire, unless I can confirm it
> is marine grade and in good condition. I have an IT background and have
> wired data centres with 1000s of cables in a 12x12 room, so a boat is
> pretty simple.
>
> I have to decide if, after assessing the work to be done, the boat is
> still worth it to me. The owner has already said he would not lower the
> price further than 21500 even if issues appear on a survey or inspection.
> So far, nothing aside from a few lights not working have appeared. I would
> like a boat I can feel comfortable taking to Mexico, and maybe even the
> South Pacific, and I don't know if this boat is up to the task, even with
> all the work done. And if we have to sell it, I will not likely get
> anything back for the work I put in, especially with a VW engine, even if I
> make it look nice...
>
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 7:44 AM Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Jim,
>>
>>
>>
>> I think your friend is overly pessimistic.  We are not seeing that kind
>> of  differential on boats here on the east coast where my firm operates
>> (MD, VA, SC, FL).
>>
>>
>>
>> Neil
>>
>> 1982 C&C 32, FoxFire
>>
>> Rock Hall MD
>>
>>
>>
>> Full disclosure, I am a Yacht Broker
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *jim
>> aridas via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 24, 2019 10:36 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* jim aridas 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 35-2 concerns
>>
>>
>>
>> The market for auxiliary sail is SO soft. For 25k you can get a really
>> great turn key boat. Most boats are selling for 1/2 of asking price, as per
>> a friend who owns a yacht brokerage company out of Central NJ.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> Galaxy 34
>>
>> Get Outlook for Android 
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of
>> rjcasciato--- via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 24, 2019 10:28:28 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* rjcasci...@comcast.net
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 35-2 concerns
>>
>>
>>
>> Shawn, I agree with Bruce..
>> Let this one go
>> If you're retired, then you are already operating on "Life Minutes "
>> Don't spend them of stuff like this
>>
>> Ron
>> Impromptu
>> C&C 38 MKII
>> 1977.
>>
>> My boat looks and races like it just came out of the mold.you don't
>> want to know how much time and money that takes.
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Xfinity Connect Application
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>>
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>> Sent: 2019-04-24 7:24:48 AM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 35-2 concerns
>>
>> Hi Shawn,
>>
>>
>>
>> Realistically,  I think you should walk away  from that boat.  There are
>> just too many owner modifications that have not been done by someone who
>> knows what they are doing in a marine environment.  Consider finding the
>> right boat, even at a distance in the right condition at the right price,
>> even if you have to have it trucked to you.  You'll end up spending the
>> equivalent cost to move the boat just getting this one in proper shape,
>> and  you'll avoid a lot of heartburn.
>>
>>
>>
>> When we bought our boat, we knew that the fresh water, propane, and
>> charging system all had issues, the sail covers desperately needed to be
>> replaced, and while kept relatively clean it had basically sat at the dock
>> for years.  However the boat was basically sound, having had a lot of
>> professional upgrades added 8 years earlier.  Two years later, we have a
>> great boat, but our project list has now exceeded 200 individual small
>> projects, we're down to 22 short term and 15 long term (mostly to be done
>> at haulout).  Yet, last weekend I found another where a wire leading out
>> from the battery charger had corroded due to poor installation.  That, in
>> turn is driving me to add a 3rd battery to the house bank while I'm at
>> it...  And, though I enjoy 

Re: Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

*Oregon Offshore Update: * Another C&C 115 '
*Fortuna*' has jumped in the mix. '*Defiant'* is the other C&C 115 (not a
110). Along with Alan's *Thirsty* there is some decent brand representation
this year. The entry list is particularly strong this running with many
strong racing boats from Seattle doing a tough delivery all the way down to
Astoria for the start. To name a few:

   - *Fortuna
   * C&C
   115
   - *Selkie
   

   *Express 37
   - *Salient  *Beneteau 40.7
   - *Envolee
   

   *Figaro 2 (San Franscisco)
   - *Image
   

   *Catalina 38
   - *True Love
   

*

Another exciting entry this year is Scott Campbells'  *Riva *a new J121
with a seasoned crew. (old Riva was a J46). I personally will be on the
foredeck of the V*elocity *J42 crew again for an off brand, but reasonably
fast race up the coast on well dialed in boat with a great group. See you
in Victoria cousins!

Kevin C&C 30-2 *Osprey*
Portland


Kevin Driscoll



On Mon, Apr 8, 2019 at 8:40 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Enjoy the wedding. I'll be in the San Juan Islands in early July. Perhaps
> we can meet up then.
>
> Alan
>
> On Mon, Apr 8, 2019 at 12:45 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Not this year, unfortunately. We will be on our way to Saskatchewan for a
>> wedding. We'll hope for the rendezvous.
>>
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>>
>> On Sun, 7 Apr 2019 at 07:51, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Jim:
>>>
>>> I hope you and Anne can come to the RVYC BBQ after the race. Else we'll
>>> get together at the rendezvous.
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> On Sun, Apr 7, 2019 at 7:36 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 We'll have to connect! Looking forward to seeing you and Thirsty again.

 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 C&C 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC




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>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
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Re: Stus-List Cruising chute tack point on bow of 37/40+?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Bill, Where is you tack line from the chute led to first? Not to the toe
rail is that correct? Otherwise you would not be able to jibe the chute
correct?

KD

On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 10:51 AM Bill Dakin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We set our new asym on Saturday with the ATN tacker and sock. A tack line
> runs to a block on the toe rail that leads to a cam at the cockpit. Think
> of it as a downhaul for trimming. I will be adding another line to the
> release shackle for blowing the tack, when urgent dousing is needed. I can
> single hand the entire operation, safely too.
>
> The blue monster pulled like a freight train.
>
>
> Bill Dakin
>
> On Oct 29, 2018, at 11:51 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have not looked at the Tacker.  That would seem to make
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Cruising chute tack point on bow of 37/40+?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

The way the line and block are run in the photo it would be impossible to
to tack the chute to port without fouling. We have a much smaller 30-2, but
with essentially the same bow set up/anchor roller etc. Our tack block is
connected to the bow roller at the anchor retaining pin. I believe yours
should be there as well, especially for outside jibes, which I presume you
will be doing (unless you are racing with crew who can haul it inside, even
then you will not have hardly any room forward of the head stay and likely
to get spinnaker wraps on your new chute.) The upper part of the bow pulpit
is on our boat, a bit too far forward in an ideal world.

The ATN tacker would keep the chute from falling off to leeward, but will
not solve a bad lead. Also, Joels concern is valid too. The foil is not
designed for high loading in any direction really.

KD  2 cents

On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 10:07 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> In a perfect world, a line would be led from the tack through a block back
> to the cockpit. The block would be attached to the deck forward of the fire
> stay. The tack line would be eased or trimmed to shape the curve of the
> luff.
>
> You MAY barely have room to attach a padeye with a diamond shaped base
> forward of the fore stay.  I’m assuming there is a stem plate under the
> anchor roller plate.  Attaching would involve drilling and tapping into the
> stem plate, not the anchor plate.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 29, 2018, at 12:51 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have not looked at the Tacker.  That would seem to make sense, as it
> would seem to transfer much of the load to the forestay where such large
> loads presumably belong.  That said, would the ring in the photo be
> sufficient to bare the load, or should I still find a way to attach the
> tack line to the anchor roller plate?
>
> Thanks for the idea,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Matthew L. Wolford 
> *Sent:* Monday, October 29, 2018 12:14 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Cruising chute tack point on bow of 37/40+?
>
> Have you looked at an ATN Tacker?
>
> *From:* Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, October 29, 2018 12:06 PM
> *To:* C&C List 
> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Cruising chute tack point on bow of 37/40+?
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have a n1994 C&C 37/40+, and recently got a lightly used cruising
> spinnaker from Bacons.  In rigging it up yesterday to check the fit, it
> occurred to me that I need to check into the manner in which the tack
> should be attached to the boat.  In this picture, you will see how I rigged
> it just to check the fit:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/51uru50vcda3kp1/Bow%20with%20spinnaker%20block.jpg?dl=0.
> My concern is, this ring doesn't look robust enough for the stresses of a
> large sail.
>
> The rest of the bow looks like this:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/195gwxqxivxop67/Bow%20of%20boat.jpg?dl=0.
>
> I was thinking that a soft shackle passed around the anchor roller might
> work, though I saw one post on another board of a Beneteau owner who said
> he pulled out his anchor roller using it as a tack point for a spinnaker,
> and I would be relying on the strength of the bolt.
>
> What have you folks done, and do you have any photos?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> --
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I have them on our 30-2 as well. They work for water and holding, but not
very well. I figured there could be scaling or something else going on.
Input from others is welcome.

Kevin

On Tue, Oct 2, 2018 at 2:20 PM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Fred...shoot me an email @ davidrisc...@msn.com.  Thanks!
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 <(401)%20419-4650> *
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G
> Street via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 2, 2018 5:10 PM
> *To:* Glenn Henderson via CnC-List
> *Cc:* Frederick G Street
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators
> I * THINK* my dealer setup with them is still active; if anyone on the
> list is interested, I can put in an order.  Let me know off-list.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Oct 2, 2018, at 2:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I installed this product.  I love it.
> https://tankedge.com/products.html
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 2:10 PM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> Our new to us C&C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical
> panel, but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to
> open up all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to
> change plumbing hoses in the head for odor control.  While I am down there,
> I was wondering if anyone has replaced tank level senders/sensors or
> reactivated them somehow.  It would be great to be able to monitor levels
> so if people also have done upgrades, ideas on that would be appreciated as
> well.
>
> All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Maurice Poulin
> C&C 30 MKII - Monoloy
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List 34+ Gladwin in Anacortes

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Hi Lee,
I see you are also a broker with Russ at West Yachts. I am sure the owners
love their C&C as we all do. Russ was very kind to show us the boat on
short notice after the Northern Century last weekend. Great to see a boat
on the market being used regularly of course.
Has any body had experience with a grounding/insurance claim on a 34+ or
other Rob Ball boat? Is there anything to be nervous about?

I hope everybody is enjoying the summer!

Kevin

On Wed, Aug 22, 2018, 8:24 PM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Kevin,
>
> You talking to Russ at West Yachts?  I heard the owners have been sailing
> the boat, don’t know how much, but likely love their boat.
>
> Lee at shilshole
>
>
> > On Aug 22, 2018, at 4:10 56PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Saw the 34+ 'Gladwin' in Anacortes, Washington recently. She looked well
> cared for. Does anybody have more information on her?
> >
> > Best,
> > Kevin
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List 34+ Gladwin in Anacortes

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Saw the 34+ 'Gladwin' in Anacortes, Washington recently. She looked well
cared for. Does anybody have more information on her?

Best,
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail water drain

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

The "kitchen cloth"

from Trader Joe's is a synthetic chamois that works amazingly in for this
purpose. $3.99 for 2 pack. We usually cut each one in half (so you have 4
per pack) and use them around the boat and house. They launder reasonably
well and they come in various colors.On our 30-2 I take a half and
stick it through the toe rail. They stay put and will wick amazingly.

On Mon, Feb 12, 2018 at 5:12 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used cotton lamp wick like this:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Paraffin-Kerosene-Lanterns-Genuine-Superior/dp/B01BYLYQYY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BGACPVC704NHP4827AC3&dpID=51iI62A7ikL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
>
> I just folded it over a couple times and stitched it so it looks like a
> letter "P".  The folded over part lays on the deck and the tail sticks out
> throught the toe rail.  It hangs free of the hull so the drips fall off the
> end of the wick and don't run down the topsides.
>
> Amazon sells round wicks for about $2.  One could just tie a know in a
> couple of those and do the same thing.  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Lost at sea...um , yeah

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Great deal on a 50 ish footer:
https://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/boa/d/50-foot-sailboat/6370727567.html

On Thu, Nov 2, 2017, 10:06 PM Leslie Paal via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> correct, but the actual boat is 45 feet.  Someone wanted to cheat on
> mooring fees and taxes
>
>
> 
> On Tue, 10/31/17, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>  Subject: Re: Stus-List Lost at sea...um , yeah
>  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>  Cc: "Bill Bina - gmail" 
>  Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2017, 6:45 AM
>
>
>  According to the
>  boat's
>documentation it is a 37 footer, not a 50 footer.
>  :-)
>
>
>  Bill
>  Bina
>
>
>
>
>  On 10/31/2017 9:37 AM,
>  Dennis C. via
>CnC-List wrote:
>
>
>
>
>  At one point they were 2 miles off Wake Island
>  and in
>contact with the island but couldn't sail
>  around to the harbor
>entrance.
>
>
>
>Dennis C.
>
>
>
>
>  On Oct 31,
>  2017 8:12 AM, "Chuck
>Gilchrest via CnC-List" 
>wrote:
>
>Today’s
>  reveal was that the women had an EPIRB that
>  they failed
>  to use.
>
>  One of the sailors Jennifer “Fer” Appel,
>  had an earlier
>  career as an Amateur Motorcycle Roadracer.
>  In her
>  search for sponsorship she routinely
>  embellished her
>  accomplishments according to several of my
>  friends who
>  were involved in the sport.
>
>  Perhaps a vivid imagination can be fueled by
>  5 months at
>  sea, but the more I learn of their
>  “ordeal”, the more
>  skeptical I become.
>
>  And to top it off, she’s claiming the
>  rescue ship caused
>  irreparable damage to her vessel by
>  attempting to tow
>  it.  She is actually blaming their
>  rescuers!
>
>  Amazing!
>
>  Chuck Gilchrest
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>___
>
>  The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have
>  gone up again.  October will be our fund raising month.
>  Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep
>  this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>  All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
>___
>
>  The bills have started coming
>  in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  October will
>  be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small
>  contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to
>  send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>  All contributions are greatly
>  appreciated!
>
>  -Inline Attachment Follows-
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Fundraising results

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Thank you Josh...and once again, thank you Stu.

On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 1:50 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> To Kevin's point, if the expense (money and time) is exorbitant, there may
> be alternatives or at least a strong argument for something different.
> This list does have plenty of smart people, many of whom may have
> experience with modern social networking technology and associated
> platforms.  It is possible that there is a better way to do this.  It is
> also quite possible that this list is still the best, cheapest, and least
> involved.
>
> Just because this topic has been discussed at length multiple times in the
> past doesn't mean that a new technology hasn't come along.  I do remember
> that one of the important features referenced in the past was that it be
> email based so that our SSB/pactor/snail mail members can still interact.
> With the ubiquity of modern high-speed cell phone internet and even
> satellite internet communications it seems that even that argument is
> becoming moot.
>
> As for the "transition" from Stu (for whatever reason but most importantly
> an untimely demise) a "board of directors" might be appropriate to ensure a
> smooth transition.
>
> None of this is to discredit or disrespect Stu's efforts or
> contributions.  In fact quite the opposite.  Thank you Stu for all of your
> time and effort over the years.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Oct 26, 2017 3:35 PM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dennis et al,
>> Wouldn't you want to know how *much* it is costing Stu or how *little* he
>> is making so you could send MORE money, to help out? I do so I can send
>> MORE, not less!
>>
>> Continue to pile on all you like. Being informed of the approximate costs
>> (in time and $) would benefit everyone, least of all Stu, since listers
>> would know what it takes and could contribute MORE.
>>
>> Keep em coming. Still loving this list and C&C's ;!
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 12:26 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> This virtual C&C community has existed for over 20 years.  Many of us
>>> have escaped the list's cyber boundaries and meet in the "real" world.
>>>
>>> What Bill didn't mention was that Sailnet wanted to charge an ongoing
>>> fee to all of us.   We would also be subject to their advertisements and
>>> any future fee increases.  After we set up a Yahoo Groups, we found it
>>> lacking.
>>>
>>> Stu stepped up to the plate and offered to maintain what we now call
>>> Stu's List.  One of the promises Stu made was "no advertising, ever".  We
>>> like that.  It is a community list.  Although Stu diligently maintains it,
>>> we all feel a deep sense of community and semi-ownership.  Although Stu is
>>> the "official head knocker in charge", we choose to believe this list is
>>> "ours".
>>>
>>> Not only does this resource make our boats more valuable, the cumulative
>>> $$ and aggravation savings are large.  Benefiting from the been there, done
>>> that of this list is very valuable.  The combined experience of our members
>>> cover all aspects of our boats; rigging, tuning, structural repairs,
>>> engines, electrical and electronics.
>>>
>>> Well worth throwing a few bucks at Stu.  IMHO, if there is an excess, I
>>> believe Stu will inform us and apply it to next year's expenses.  I, like
>>> others, think that if Stu chooses to accept an annual "bonus" of a bottle
>>> or two of some fine adult beverage, that's good by me.  He deserves it.
>>>
>>> Enough about this.  Send $$$.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 12:19 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> We lived through this discussion a long time ago at very great length.
>>>> We do not need to re-litigate it again. We were all originally on a group
>>>> hosted by Sailnet. Sailnet changed hands, and we were essentially left
>>>> homeless. At that time, we had a long debate about where to go. Google
>>>> really didn't exist then. The big player was Yahoo. There were a few other
>>>> options, including staying with the new owners of Sailnet, even though they
>>>> had dumped our archive

Re: Stus-List Fundraising results

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Dennis et al,
Wouldn't you want to know how *much* it is costing Stu or how *little* he
is making so you could send MORE money, to help out? I do so I can send
MORE, not less!

Continue to pile on all you like. Being informed of the approximate costs
(in time and $) would benefit everyone, least of all Stu, since listers
would know what it takes and could contribute MORE.

Keep em coming. Still loving this list and C&C's ;!

On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 12:26 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This virtual C&C community has existed for over 20 years.  Many of us have
> escaped the list's cyber boundaries and meet in the "real" world.
>
> What Bill didn't mention was that Sailnet wanted to charge an ongoing fee
> to all of us.   We would also be subject to their advertisements and any
> future fee increases.  After we set up a Yahoo Groups, we found it lacking.
>
> Stu stepped up to the plate and offered to maintain what we now call Stu's
> List.  One of the promises Stu made was "no advertising, ever".  We like
> that.  It is a community list.  Although Stu diligently maintains it, we
> all feel a deep sense of community and semi-ownership.  Although Stu is the
> "official head knocker in charge", we choose to believe this list is "ours".
>
> Not only does this resource make our boats more valuable, the cumulative
> $$ and aggravation savings are large.  Benefiting from the been there, done
> that of this list is very valuable.  The combined experience of our members
> cover all aspects of our boats; rigging, tuning, structural repairs,
> engines, electrical and electronics.
>
> Well worth throwing a few bucks at Stu.  IMHO, if there is an excess, I
> believe Stu will inform us and apply it to next year's expenses.  I, like
> others, think that if Stu chooses to accept an annual "bonus" of a bottle
> or two of some fine adult beverage, that's good by me.  He deserves it.
>
> Enough about this.  Send $$$.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 12:19 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> We lived through this discussion a long time ago at very great length. We
>> do not need to re-litigate it again. We were all originally on a group
>> hosted by Sailnet. Sailnet changed hands, and we were essentially left
>> homeless. At that time, we had a long debate about where to go. Google
>> really didn't exist then. The big player was Yahoo. There were a few other
>> options, including staying with the new owners of Sailnet, even though they
>> had dumped our archives. Having been burned badly by allowing someone else
>> to host us, we were all very happy to have Stu provide us a stable home,
>> where some outside bean-counter would never again have the option to
>> exterminate us, and throw our content in the trash. Stu has done an amazing
>> job all these years, and at one time mentioned that there was a succession
>> plan in place. Anyone who thinks this is in any way a "business" for Stu
>> should just go back out whatever door they came in. He has put an enormous
>> amount of time and effort into keeping us together, and I would be shocked
>> if the bottom line has not been a bit of red ink for him. Stu has formal
>> arrangements for use of the official C&C material on his website and use of
>> the logo for various items he occasionally makes available as modest fund
>> raisers. The founders and principal players of the old C&C have expressed
>> gratitude for Stu's efforts in keeping their legacy alive. Our old C&C's
>> are also more saleable, and at a higher price, thanks to Stu's generous
>> work.
>>
>> Bill Bina
>>
>> On 10/26/2017 12:54 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Stu, Thank you for what you do. No offense intended, but this is my
>> perspective:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> I have lots of stuff on Google drives. This does not make it Google's
>> property. This email list, in support of a brand of sailboats, is
>> a Community of people who share a common passion. I personally do not think
>> one person should own, control, and profit? from the experiences shared by
>> many, for free, in support of a brand of sailboats we all love.
>>
>> God forbid something happens to Stu, but if it did this list would
>> evaporate unless there is a succession plan that I am unaware of. Stu does
>> not own the intellectual property on this list and does not own any part or
>> version of the actual C&C brand to my knowledge. If anything we should be
>> sending money to

Re: Stus-List Fundraising results

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Stu, Thank you for what you do. No offense intended, but this is my
perspective:

Mike,

I have lots of stuff on Google drives. This does not make it Google's
property. This email list, in support of a brand of sailboats, is
a Community of people who share a common passion. I personally do not think
one person should own, control, and profit? from the experiences shared by
many, for free, in support of a brand of sailboats we all love.

God forbid something happens to Stu, but if it did this list would
evaporate unless there is a succession plan that I am unaware of. Stu does
not own the intellectual property on this list and does not own any part or
version of the actual C&C brand to my knowledge. If anything we should be
sending money to Rob Ball, Cuthbertson's family, etc. for the designs they
labored over and executed so well.

 Cloud storage is *storage*. That's all.

I have asked twice about what it costs to run the list. An answer hasn't
been provided.

Thank you.

On Wed, Oct 25, 2017, 5:26 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
wrote:

> This is stus list and moving to cloud may make it their list.
>
> I have met people through this list that I have later met in person who
> are now friends. I have met people who I have never met in person who are
> friends  I have solved engine problems due to input from this list and
> learned that cows do better foredeck work than me. I have learned a lot.
>
> This list is stus and we have all benefited. Moving to cloud makes it not
> stus. I am happy to support for all the c&cs my family and i have owned or
> sailed on and the ones that are not c&c. I believe strongly that this list
> is so good because of Stu
>
> I also wonder if cows live on foredeck in Mexico
>
> Mike Hoyt
> The most consistent not currently c&c poster
> The biggest interloper
> One of the strongest believers in what Stu has built
>
> 1987 non c&c
> Persistence
> Out of the water today
> Halifax, ns
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Stu via
> CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: October 25, 2017 6:33 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Stu
> Subject: Stus-List Fundraising results
>
> Thank you one and all for your contributions to pay for the costs
> associated with this list and the Photo Album.
>
> Some of the bills are in and others come later in the year and I don't
> know if they have increased. You have made it possible that I will not be
> digging into my pockets as much as other years.
>
> I know Cloud Storage and other facilities are available and maybe at a
> cheaper cost.  But there will be a lot lost if we change providers at this
> time.  And the time required to rebuild would not be something I want to
> do.
>
> I cannot express my gratitude enough and I don't know how to say it other
> than "THANK YOU"
>
> Stu
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Have you thought of using a padeye screwed to stringer, friction ring, and
dyneema? Would be a lot cheaper (and lighter) and you could DIY it. Would
serve same function just as well. Don't have time to get into it, but look
around at what is possible since probably would be done this way today on a
new boat. Cheaper, easier, better imo.

(my babystay attachment also runs parallel to bulkhead, perp to water line
in v berth.

2 cents

On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 3:23 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chuck, et al,
>
> I don’t know if it is the same on your model but be careful about assuming
> that the track tie-down follows the angle of the baby-stay. At least that
> is my take-away from your description of it being “far in front of the
> keel” means.
>
> With  the 37’, on the aft end of the baby-stay track there is a plate that
> the top of the tie-down (Navtec rod rigging…) is attached to. The rod
> descends directly down parallel to the interior bulkheads (perpendicular to
> the waterline) to the stud that was glassed into the central stringer. The
> load is not carried forward but rather resides at the rear of the traveler
> track.
>
> Years ago I delivered a 34’ from Ft. Lauderdale to Kingston, Jamaica. As I
> recall, it had the same setup that the 37’ does.
>
> Also, I’ll reiterate, the bolt does not go through the hull. Repairs to
> this can be easily be made while the boat is in the water.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Oct 25, 2017, at 6:07 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Fred,
>
>
> I checked the drawings for the 34 and see the baby stay is far in front of
> the keel.  I suspect the bolt should be attached to a stringer also.
> http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1794
>
>
> That's how it is on my 34R.  On my boat they welded a stainless stud to a
> stainless bracket that is thru bolted to a stringer.   A short piece of rod
> carries the load from the track down to the hull stringer.
>
>
> I suggest you pull up the floor around the hole and look in there?
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, M
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stu's List fundraising month

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Is there an outline of what it costs to keep this going? Cloud storage is
awfully affordable these days.

Thx

On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 1:55 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just chipped in $25.  A bargain, for this resource.
>
> Thanks,
> Randy
>
> On Oct 25, 2017, at 2:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Stu, if you've reached your goal, please let us know.  Otherwise, we are
> nearing the end of October, the fundraising month for this wonderful C&C
> owners resource.  I hope everyone has sent Stu a donation to help him with
> the expense of maintaining the list for us.  The help, guidance and
> camaraderie of the list are worth much more than a few $$.
>
> Advice from listers is free but data storage and bandwidth aren't.
>
> If you haven't contributed, please consider doing so at:  <
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>
> Dennis C.
> Executive beer drinker and associate fund development activist
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MKII - 3 questions

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Don't you mean the other "port", i.e. Starboard Locker? You'll have to set
up bins for a storage system to keep storage organized and useful. I use
clear Sterilite variety. By ones that stack two high on top of "false
floor" (which covers hot water and holding tanks), but that do not limit
the hatch closing.

Agreed w/all comments.

On Mon, Oct 23, 2017 at 2:49 PM kelly petew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've owned this model C&C for a long time.  Great sailing boat -- Rob Ball
> knows how to design capable sailboats!!!
>
> Look for leaky portlights.  If replacing, go with more robust acrylic or
> plexi-glass lenses [not sure, but plexi may be preferable].
>
> I'm almost 6'0", but v-berth is just doable, lengthwise.  Aft cabin is
> preferable, IMHO.
> For a craft this length, the water and waste tanks are generous, but only
> for weekending or coastal cruising, IMHO.
> Yanmar would be the preferred power plant, but it's "shoe-horned" into its
> compartment.  Maintenance/repairs can be a challenge.
> You can get three [3] batteries onboard.
> While the portside cockpit locker is "cavernous", Storage below for
> provisions, gear, spares is somewhat limited due to LOA.
>
>
> Pete W.
>
> Siren Song
> '91 C&C 30MKII
> Deltaville, Va.
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2017 11:27:53 -0400
> From: mp...@aol.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 30 MKII
> Message-ID: <15f49d8eb7d-c0f-f...@webjas-vaa086.srv.aolmail.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Greetings,
>
> New to the list and hoping to be a new owner for a C&C 30 MKii 1988. It is
> a nicely appointed sailboat in great shape for its age and no visible, walk
> away concerns.  I was hoping for comments from anyone with experience and
> insights to offer, peeves, joys etc.  that would be super appreciated.
>
> 3 quick questions though:
>
> 1) knowing the boat, what would be a definite concern that you would look
> at, stuff that has failed or gives grief?
> 2) The front berth dimension is difficult to assess but it is sufficient
> for a couple of average size, height?
> 3) Would you do a jump to the Caribbean from the ICW on such a boat?
>
> Such a nice cruiser/racer though!
>
> Thank you for any information you can share!
>
> Maurice Poulin
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ xl for sale

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

"Pac Cup Veteran" does suggest good gear and an owner that knows what they
are doing and has the funds to invest in the ~$100k to pull off a Pac Cup.
(vetted number from the boat I crewed on for Pac Cup and from another
entrant I know). I doubt the sails (sales) are nearly as tired as the
dacron bed sheets sold with most older C&C's. She's been raced obviously.
That said, every owner, I've ever raced with has taken better care of their
boat than the average cruisers I know and they don't often flog their sails
and rigging like many cruisers do. Nobody could say if there was
significant water in the boat as with any boat on the market.

Fact is, though we love our C&C's the larger and older boats are the least
attractive on the used boat market and are going for peanuts because of
this. People who have the skills and funds to own a 40' boat (not as a
liveaboard) are generally older and likely more comfortable financially.
These buyers are less likely to want an older boat that takes 'work' to
maintain or 'work' to sail, hence furling mains and jibs, and powered
halyard winches at least.

My 2 cents too.

Kevin

On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 10:54 AM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does “Pacific Cup Veteran” suggest good gear, tired sales, and raced hard
> and put to bed wet?  You’d have to see it to know how much water has been
> inside the boat.
> 2 cents, Lee
>
>
>
> On Oct 19, 2017, at 10:20 05AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Scary how inexpensive. Maybe there’s something very wrong with her.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
> On Oct 19, 2017, at 1:03 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Has anyone seen this?
>
>
> http://marinesource.com/boats-for-sale/listing_details.cfm?Yacht=1990-37-C-C-37-XL-Plus-Berkeley-CA&listingnmb=100784958
>
> Seems really inexpensive!
>
> Danny
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ xl for sale

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

"Maggie" has been on the market for over a year at least. I've been keeping
an eye on the listing. I doubt there is anything wrong with her. In fact,
her keel has been dropped and rebed and the rudder dropped and serviced for
their Pac Cup run in 2012.

If the Bridge Deck on the 37+ was not absurdly high (my opinion) I would
really like this boat. The tradeoff of the very high bridge deck and ~3
extra companionway stairs for the walk around aft berth doesn't seem worth
it in IMO. Contorting underneath a high dodger every time you need to go
below for a beer seems inconvenient ;)

Otherwise, the 37+ is one of my very favorite boats and I still covet one.

Kevin 30-2


On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 10:28 AM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Maybe...but there is something defiantly wrong with the market
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> Date: 10/19/17 13:20 (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Edd Schillay 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ xl for sale
>
> Scary how inexpensive. Maybe there’s something very wrong with her.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>
>
>
>
>
> On Oct 19, 2017, at 1:03 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Has anyone seen this?
>
>
> http://marinesource.com/boats-for-sale/listing_details.cfm?Yacht=1990-37-C-C-37-XL-Plus-Berkeley-CA&listingnmb=100784958
> 
>
> Seems really inexpensive!
>
> Danny
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C&C 30-2 vs Tartan 31

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

One other item no one has mentioned. The aft head. Priceless. Good use of
space and perfect for hanging wet clothes shed at the bottom of the
companionway. The toilet faces fore and aft so is good on either tack.
Additionally, having the head forward (as is shown in the Tartan),
essentially in the vee berth is not pleasant IMO. 99% of all heads smell to
a certain degree, no matter how new the hoses, how regular you change the
joker valve etc. Having the head forward also means the holding tank is
likely under the vee berth. With the aft head on the 30-2 it is underneath
the false floor in the starboard locker, outside of the cabin for all
intents and purposes. Not sure I would consider a boat with only a forward
head. My 2cents.

And everything that Jim said about his 30-2. +1 to all of that.

Kevin
30-2
Portland, OR

On Wed, Oct 11, 2017 at 11:03 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ll add one more perspective.  I have a beautiful teak table sitting in
> my basement.  The cabin is much roomier without it, and no one seems to
> miss it.
>
> Again, it’s all about how you use the boat.
>
> *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 11, 2017 1:52 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C&C 30-2 vs
> Tartan 31
>
>
> Hi Lisle and also others
>
> I think fixed table or fold up table has a lot to do with how you intend
> to use the boat.  We have raced on a C&C 115 which had the fixed table.
> Very nice layout when spending time below but when racing the fixed table
> makes packing a spinnaker more arduous.
>
> Our current boat has a fold up to bulkhead table as did our Niagara 26
> (most Niagaras had a dinette).  When we are cruising inshore we put the
> table down and leave the stbd side leaf folded down.  This is in fact very
> similar to a fixed table with the port leaf up and stbd leaf down.  Room to
> get by but also more room to put snacks and other items.  Really I do not
> think it matters all that much which you have
>
> The BIG DIFFERENCE I see between the Tartan and C&C is the aft cabin vs a
> quarterberth.  When our girls were small we lived aboard our Niagara 26
> most weekends in the summer.  They were 6 and 8 when we started and we did
> this for several years.  Initially they would sleep in the vee berth which
> left the rest of the boat free for us and guests once they were asleep.
> Once they got older they wanted their own bunks and insisted on sleeping on
> the settees which was less convenient all round.  With a two cabin layout
> you have a LOT MORE bedroom options for your children and can keep the main
> cabin free for a common area.  I think in many ways the 30-2 C&C affords
> more flexibility for staying overnight with small children than a boat with
> an open quarterberth.  The downside is that the vee berth and quarterberth
> on the C_C 30-2 will likely be more cramped than the vee berth on the
> Tartan.
>
> Our first boat (C&C designed Paceship P23) had a dinette.  It was fun for
> the two girls who were 5 and 7 at the time because it fit them (and no one
> else).  A big pain with that setup when having 4 aboard was it had to be
> folded down at night to be a bed and up in the day to give a useful surface.
>
> These are just some thoughts I wanted to share about spending time aboard
> with small children for the two layouts you had mentioned
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 33
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> On Oct 11, 2017, at 6:09 AM, Lisle Kingery, PhD 
> wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the helpful replies on cabin table options. I've pretty
> much narrowed my boat choices down to either a C&C 30MKii or a Tartan 31 at
> this point. The Tartan's interior appears more open with the folding table
> mounted on the bulkhead vs. the fixed table on the C&C. I will mainly be
> day-sailing and hanging out on the dock with a few overnights so I'm
> thinking the more open cabin might work better with the kids. comparison
> pics link below.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5w1TuAY4gTRam1qNlBuWExhSW8
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Lisle
>
> --
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
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The bills have s

Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

What about using NO screws and instead use VHB Tape and seal apply sealant
between boards? Similar to the portlight procedure we are always talking
about. This way you won't have a rotten cockpit in 10 years. FWIW, it is my
understanding that new boats do not use screws through the deck for teak
anymore. They use epoxy adhesive and vacuum bag. VHB would keep them in
place for the life of your boat.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 4:55 AM Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I also countersink all screw and bolt holes so the caulking can make a
> better seal.
>
> Frank
>
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2017 3:50 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I put everything back with butyl tape.  You do have to seal the
> penetrations of the screws.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
> From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/7/17 6:55 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bev Parslow 
> Subject: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit
>
> Just taken some teak off a vertical surface. Varnished them and they look
> great. Do I need to use a caulking to attach them back? Can I just screw
> them back?
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List was considering C&C 25, now Pearson 27 or C&C 30

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Lisle, I also have a 30 mkII. My wife and I sleep in the aft cabin. (Well,
until recently now that our 2 month old has evicted me. Now I sleep in the
vee birth with our 2 year old)

We easily spend 50-60 nights a year on board. Lovely boat. Have taken her
over the Columbia River Bar and up the Pacific Coast as well. No problems
what so ever.



On Wed, Sep 6, 2017 at 4:17 PM Allan Rheaume via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Lisle the C&C 30 that your looking at is referred to as the Mark II or
> 30-2, great boat I just sold mine after 17 years of ownership. Forward
> cabin is good for only 1 adult or 2 children, the aft cabin is very
> comfortable and 6'10" long. The 30-2 is a considerably bigger boat than the
> other two your looking at and has a wide beam all the way to the stern. The
> one in your link is more expensive than others on yachtworld though it also
> has a long list of nice upgrades.
>
> Al Rheaume
> former 30-2 Drumroll
>
>
> --
> *From:* "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* "Lisle Kingery, PhD" 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 6, 2017 4:41 AM
>
> *Subject:* Stus-List was considering C&C 25, now Pearson 27 or C&C 30
>
> Hi all,
>
> Update: I looked at the C&C25 and although it appeared to be a basically
> solid boat, it feels a bit too small for a family of 4 and the headroom was
> a bit low. I'm hearing a lot of "3-foot-itis" stories from sellers I'm
> speaking with. So the search goes on. I've found an interesting 1987
> Pearson 27 that looks promising, here is the link:
>
>
> https://rochester.craigslist.org/bod/d/1987-pearson-27-2-sailboat/6281575540.html
>
> The one issue with the Pearson is that apparently it got struck by another
> boat on the port bow side that required some repair.
>
> Also, I'm going to see a 1987 C&C 30 later today that looks promising.
> Link here:
>
>
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1987/C%26C-30-3079275/Rochester/NY/United-States#.Wa-z9MiGNPY
>
> Can someone with a C&C 30' tell me how large the v-birth actually is and
> share any experience with the idea of a beginner sailor staring with a boat
> like this?
>
> thanks,
>
> Lisle
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Newport, RI weeknight racing?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Excellent. Thanks everybody. Andrew I will definitely ring you. Thanks Alan
for the sources.

On Thu, Aug 31, 2017 at 4:23 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Kevin:
>
> Try contacting:
>
> Eastern Point YC, Gloucester, MA 978.283.3520 <(978)%20283-3520>
>
> Boston YC, Marblehead, MA, Race Committee Chair Karen Tenenbaum,
> bycr...@bostonyachtclub.net
>
> Also use the following link for race information throughout New England:
> https://www.regattaman.com/calendar.php
>
> -
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Thu, Aug 31, 2017 at 2:51 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> We are visiting family on the east coast in about 2 weeks and spending a
>> few days in Newport, RI on the wharf. Does anybody know of any weeknight
>> racing that happens out of the Newport Yacht Club or somewhere nearby? It
>> would fun to get out on the water for an evening.
>>
>> Does anybody else here have a boat in Newport RI?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Kevin
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=3vA3eRjbZklUdBCXX9LWHM6eduA7mMbc_V5g8aBf5Vg&s=7_La5PafbcMNzMKy7xvFrrMEDudGnbU0H2cJh19oFQo&e=
>
>
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Newport, RI weeknight racing?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I should also say that we will be in Gloucester, MA later during the week ~
22nd-24th of September if anyone needs a hand with lines or someone to
grind!

On Thu, Aug 31, 2017 at 2:50 PM Kevin Driscoll 
wrote:

> We are visiting family on the east coast in about 2 weeks and spending a
> few days in Newport, RI on the wharf. Does anybody know of any weeknight
> racing that happens out of the Newport Yacht Club or somewhere nearby? It
> would fun to get out on the water for an evening.
>
> Does anybody else here have a boat in Newport RI?
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
>
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Stus-List Newport, RI weeknight racing?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

We are visiting family on the east coast in about 2 weeks and spending a
few days in Newport, RI on the wharf. Does anybody know of any weeknight
racing that happens out of the Newport Yacht Club or somewhere nearby? It
would fun to get out on the water for an evening.

Does anybody else here have a boat in Newport RI?

Thanks,
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Here are my 2 cents.

   - I didn't grow up sailing or on the water but was always drawn.
   - After undergrad, I signed on as crew with a friend of a friend to sail
   his Camper Nicolson 32 down the East Coast and out to the Bahamas. When I
   went aboard I did not know how to sail and when I left 6 months later I
   still didn't know how to sail, though I thought I did. (Offshore sailing on
   a 32' boat with a wind vane will not teach you how to sail.)
   - Later I moved to Seattle and volunteered at the Center for Wooden
   Boats in trade for free sailing time. This is where I learned basics of
   sailing. Small sloop rigged JK boats
   , with proper sails,
   leaving and docking under sail, constantly changing winds from all
   directions on Seattle's Lake Union. Other boats, airplanes, kayakers, etc.
   etc. to deal with. Forces that make you learn.
   - Got busy with grad school moved to Portland, got married, bought a US
   27 with my wife and then started sailing again. Had the basics down and
   felt like I knew what I was doing.
   - Dumped the US 27, bought a C&C 30-2.
   - Then I started racing...mostly on others boats.
   - Racing is taught me how to sail. I thought I knew how to sail, as
   others think they do, but I really didn't. Racing taught me proper
   seamanship, offshore at night with Pacific swells, currents and counter
   wind waves. Racing taught me rights-of-way without thinking about it.
   Racing gives me confidence in different conditions with symmetrical and
   asymmetrical chutes, reefing, sail trim, etc, etc. Racing gets me out
   multiple times a week, on a variety of boats, regardless of clouds in the
   sky, rain, high winds, or no winds.
   - Racing introduced me to a whole community of people, of all different
   stripes, who love sailing. Way more than I would have met on the docks in
   the marina. These people have become friends, on and off the water.
   - My advice is to get the C&C 25' if it seems right, but do all you can
   to get out racing on someone else's boat and smaller boats too. This is
   where you will actually learn to sail and you meet an excellent group of
   people doing so.

You will also an excellent group of local C&C owners and racers, like Alan
and Fred in Portland.

Best,
Kevin

On Wed, Aug 30, 2017 at 4:07 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ve had learning experiences on boats of many sizes.  I capsized a Hobie
> 16, then sideslipped into a mega-yacht with it, all on the same afternoon
> in Maho Bay, St. John.  Single-handing a Coronado 15 in 20 kts a couple
> years back, I capsized and couldn’t right it by myself.  A microburst
> knocked down the J/22 I was sailing several years ago on Chatfield
> Reservoir.  For ASA-104 I sailed a Bavaria 46 from Long Beach to Catalina,
> and slewed around in a 38-foot catamaran on the way back.  In 2013 I
> roller-coastered through 15’ waves and 37-kt winds crossing the Bequia
> Channel in a Jenneau 45, burying the bow in every trough.  In my limited
> experience sailing for about the last decade, I think every boat can teach
> you something about how boats handle, comparatively.
>
> My main complaint about dinghy sailing is that it is a lot of work before
> and after the actual sailing part.  At minimum you have to launch and rig
> the dinghy, then unrig and recover it, and possibly also tow it to / from
> its storage place.  Maybe I’m lazy, but I prefer a keelboat in a slip - a
> lot less work every time you sail it.
>
> That said, here’s a picture from a bowsprit-mounted GoPro of my daughter
> and I sailing a Topaz dinghy in 25mph winds last month:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTeXVMS3Z2OWdNUGs.  We didn’t
> capsize that night but we kept a rail wet the whole time :)
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
>
>
> On Aug 30, 2017, at 3:36 PM, Mark G via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I didn't start sailing til my early 30's.  I started out in Tech dinghies,
> cat-rigged 12 footers.  Dinghies are a great way to learn.  Things happen
> fast in a dinghy.  And since you're the ballast, you really learn to
> balance the boat.  But they require a certain level of fitness and
> athleticism - particularly when you flip them and you have to right them in
> the water and climb back in.  I then moved to 14 foot FJ's, a little more
> performance oriented but basically more of the same.  Then to a J24, which
> is a completely different experience: you're in a cockpit, you have a
> foredeck, etc.  Honestly, if I hadn't graduated to the J24, I might have
> stopped sailing.  Little bit of time in an Etchells 22 around that time as
> well.  From there I knew I didn't want to race so I moved into more
> cruising-oriented lessons.  Boats were a 22 foot Soling, then a Pearson 26,
> an Albin 28, a J29, a Pearson 31, a Pearson 303 and a Cal 33.  So I've
> taken starter lessons in both a 12 foote

Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I don't see how you could go with anything but forced air or radiant with
registers. A bulkhead mounted unit on a 30 or slightly bigger with open
quarter berths is one thing, but it won't get heat in any kind of
meaningful way to the aft cabin on the 37+, even with fans blowing the heat
around. Perhaps the V-berth would be ok if you left the door and 'window'
open. With our aft cabin on our petite 30-2 the forced air is only thing
that keeps it warm even with fans. At anchor when we don't use the forced
air as much (because of the battery drain of older unit), single source
heating is uneven and uncomfortable.

My opinion.

KD

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 9:03 AM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> For dry heat, Calder talks about a charcoal fired unit that is wall hung.
> Can't find the exact reference right now.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
> --
> *From:* Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list 
> *Cc:* Ken Heaton 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:37 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ heat
>
> Hi Josh,
>
> A/C ducts would have to be significantly larger in dia than the heater
> ducts need to be due to the smaller temperature differential for A/C so I
> don't know if this will help you much.  The output for my Espar is only
> about 3" in dia at the heater and quickly steps down in size as it branches
> off at the different outlets.
>
> I have photos of some of the duct runs.  I'll take a look this evening.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 29 August 2017 at 09:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> I'm looking to better distribute the A/C in my boat.  I'd like to see how
> your heat is ducted.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Courtesy lights replacement bulbs

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Expanding on the LED discussion, does anyone know what type of bulb is in
the courtesy lights in the Rob Ball era boats? They have to be small.

Thanks,
Kevin
1989 30-2
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Stus-List Wanted to buy: 34+/36xl, 110, or 37+/40

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

 I am putting feelers out there to see if you or someone you know may be
getting ready / or willing to sell either the 36xl, 110, or 37/40xl soon or
before summer 2018.  My wife and I (and 2 yr old & 1month old sons) are
starting to look at our next boat. We've looked at the 36xl and the 37+/40,
but have not sailed either boat.Here are our particulars:

   - We are Pacific Northwest sailors out of Oregon.
   - We currently have a 30 mkII, which we love, but the boys are cramping
   our space already.
   - Primarily we cruise the Columbia River, year round, but are planning
   on keeping the boat in South Puget Sound summer 2018 and running it up and
   down the coast back to Oregon Spring and Fall.
   - We double hand, with lots of single handing as well.
   - I race at least once a week and get a few ocean races in during the
   year. I would like to race our next boat occasionally on some double handed
   ocean races and occasional buoy race, but it is not completely necessary as
   there are always other boats I can race with.
   - We generally spend every other weekend on the boat throughout most of
   the year, so we spend more time aboard than most.
   - I don't want a 'fixer' as I feel it is a waste of time and money.
   - We don't want a shoal draft.
   - An aft cabin is a must for us, which puts most everything pre-1988 out
   of consideration as far as I can tell
   - Open to other brands (dare I say) but prefer to stay C&C.

Let me know if you have any ideas.

Best,
Kevin
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Stus-List Need: Good Value AGM Batteries - Group 27

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Looking to replace our (2) Group 27 AGM house batteries with similar.
Looking for Value, not top of the line. Any recent purchases that at
holding up well? Please limit replies to AGM's, not Golf Cart, 6 volts,
home brew types.

Anybody have experience with these?

Yes,
they are from China.

Thank you,
Kevin
30-2

-- 
Kevin Driscoll

Associate
Vallaster Corl Architects, Inc.
Direct: 503 875 3493

Main: 503.228.0311
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Re: Stus-List macerator switch

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

On our 1989 C&C 30-2, our macerator switch is on the vertical face of the
molded in "vanity" in our head, just below the shower sump drain switch. It
very much seems like the right place for it since it is close to the Y
valve and head discharge/tank discharge thru-hull. It is a waterproof
switch because of the shower of course. I can definitely hear the macerator
in the head as it is mounted in the cockpit locker on the other side of the
bulkhead.

Of course ours very rarely gets used as it is illegal to dump within 3
miles off the coast (in US and CAN.) I am pretty sure the Straits and
inland rivers do not qualify as 3 miles offshore, but I could be mistaken.

KD

On Tue, May 9, 2017 at 4:03 AM T power via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thanks Jim for the help. I found out quickly that changing the pump is not
> on my list of fun things to do 😊. Would you recommend a momentary or
> SPST.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> Tom Power
>
> Invictus
>
> C&C 30 MK1
>
> Fredericton, NB
>
>
>
> Sent from Outlook 
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 9, 2017 12:13:36 AM
> *To:* 1 CnC List
> *Cc:* Jim Watts
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List macerator switch
>
> I have the switch close to the pump so I can hear what's going on. Last
> pump made all sorts of strange noises just before it defenestrated itself.
> I also carry a brand new pump because I have been burned before and it's
> not fun at the best of times.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 8 May 2017 at 16:46, David Blair via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> I put a waterproof switch at the helm near the control panel – advantage
>> is being in a spot where it is easy to pump while underway – which is a
>> requirement in our waters. It is momentary type too – avoids accidently
>> leaving it running.  Also makes it easy to see the pump is operating, when
>> the tank is empty, etc  Cheers
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *T
>> power via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, May 08, 2017 2:53 PM
>> *To:* Indigo via CnC-List
>> *Cc:* T power
>> *Subject:* Stus-List macerator switch
>>
>>
>>
>> I currently have a maceration pump that has a momentary switch located
>> next to it under the sink. I believe this was installed by the previous
>> owner. I would like some opinions on the best place to install the new
>> switch. Is it common to have the CB on the distribution panel handle this
>> operation or is it better to have a separate switch near the head. I'm
>> thinking near the head, but I could be wrong. There is no shower so I think
>> water will not be a concern.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> C&C 30 MK1
>>
>> Invictus
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Outlook 
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Kevin Driscoll

Associate
Vallaster Corl Architects, Inc.
Direct: 503 875 3493

Main: 503.228.0311
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Consider Marine Beam products or similar quality, especially for the mast.
Lower quality / cheaper LED set ups could provide a ton of interference
with your VHF signal / antenna, assuming you have one a the to top of you
mast. In general newer LED's seem to be reducing this concern however.

On Wed, Apr 12, 2017 at 6:58 AM kelly petew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Ron, Hi,

thanks very much for your feedback.

I am going to install LEDs, but I am not familiar with Alpha; I'll need to
do some research.  thanks.

I have removed the vhf cable only, at this point.

If I can't remove the "nest", I may simply "freshen" the terminals and stay
with the existing wires.


thanks again!


Pete


--
*From:* Ron Ricci 
*Sent:* Wednesday, April 12, 2017 7:29 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* 'kelly petew'
*Subject:* RE: Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice


Pete,



I rewired my mast several years ago.  Since my lights are all LED’s, the
current draw is very low and #18 is fine.  I used Alpha 1897C SL005 where I
needed two conductors (such as Windex light) and Alpha 1898C 3C for three
conductors (such as foredeck/steaming light).  These cables are PVC
jacketed and have tinned copper conductors.  To me having cables is better
than individual conductors and these cables are smaller than multiple
conductor boat cable.



If you have a rat’s nest of wires, I’d consider pulling everything out.  If
possible leave a wire for a messenger or get a snake.



Good luck,

*Ron*

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com







*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *kelly
petew via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, April 10, 2017 5:02 PM
*To:* cnc-list
*Cc:* kelly petew
*Subject:* Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice



Hello Listers,

First, some background --

Earlier this year, I had the mast extracted from *Siren Song*, my 30-2.
The rigger has completed his work, replacing the rod rigging and fittings,
and rebuilding my Harken furler.

Also, I just finished painting the mast and spreaders with a one-part paint.



Now, I want to rewire the mast.  Preparatory to the extraction, I labeled
the wires, marked fittings and blocks, and took MANY pics on my tablet.

I have removed the old VHF cabling, but I was unsuccessful in replacing it
with LMR-400 [.405" dia.].  For other 30-2 owners, I found [*the hard way*]
that it was too stiff and too big to fit.  I could only get it about 40%
down the mast before it became hopelessly stucked.  Therefore, I have
removed it, and re-ordered original type of cabling [rg-8x, .25"
diameter].

I was hoping to get the enhance performance from the lmr cabling, but it
won't happen, unfortunately.  I will replace the vhf antenna.



Now, I'm planning to replace electrical wires as well as light fixtures.

In doing a preliminary inspection, I found a "*rat's nest*" of wiring just
below the mast's exit hole, which lines up with the underside of the deck
when the mast is in the boat.  It looks as though excess wiring was simply
pushed DOWN into the mast, and over time sagged further down [but still
beyond arm's length from mast's bottom].



Any "*tips and tricks*", including the best tools to use for re-wiring the
electricals will be greatly appreciated, i.e., extracting the old stuff and
installing the new.



Fair Winds,



Pete W.

Siren Song

'91 C&C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.


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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Read Nigel Calder's article (Diesel Issues) in March issue of 'Sail' for a
different take on infrequent filter changes and the potential consequences.

On Thu, Mar 30, 2017, 8:35 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My Racor is a finer filter than the 10 micron filter on the engine. 4
> micron if I recall, which is contrary to the normal process. It is a screw
> on element with a clear plastic bowl on the bottom. Inspection of the bowl
> will show water, and discoloration if there is any contamination being
> filtered out of the fuel. I have about 700 hours on the engine since
> installation in 2011, and so far no indication that the filter needs to be
> replaced. Turning on the lift pump will do no good, since the filter is on
> the suction side of the pump. On my Racor, you put the bowl on the bottom
> of the element, put clean fuel into the element, install on the filter
> head. There is a bleed screw to be cracked on the output side of the filter
> head, and a plastic “knob” in the top of the filter head. Unscrew the knob
> and it becomes part of a small piston pump you use to pump fuel into the
> filter from the tank until fuel comes out the bleed screw.
>
>
>
> I know that some on the list have put a fuel squeeze bulb in the fuel line
> before the Racor filter, and use that to fill and bleed the Racor filter
> instead of the little piston pump built into the filter head.
>
>
>
> The trash filter is about 70-80 micron. Mine is a little cylindrical
> cartridge filter just a couple of inches long and maybe ½” diameter. Since
> the Racor filters well below 70 micron, I’ve never changed the trash
> filter. (I do have a spare aboard, though, since it came as part of the
> Universal spares package.
>
>
>
> The main filter on the side of the engine (which I think of as the
> secondary filter) is a little 10 micron spin on between the lift pump and
> the injection pump. IIRC, it is oriented with the screw fitting on top, so
> you fill the new filter with clean fuel (to cut down on the amount of air
> that needs to be bled) and screw it on. (I really wish they had oriented
> the oil filter up and down instead of laying it on its side.) Turn on the
> lift pump, crank the engine, and Bob’s your uncle.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Knecht via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 30, 2017 9:07 PM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
> *Cc:* David Knecht 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement
>
>
>
> Hi Rick- There are three filters and I was planning on changing all of
> them since I have no idea how old they are (>3 years).
>
>  The Racor is a 30µm filter.  It sounds like this one needs to be bled, so
> I am guessing there is a bleed screw on top, so I would fill the bowl,
> loosen the screw and then turn on the pump switch until fuel comes out the
> screw.
>
> The second is a spin on filter on the engine.  Do you just swap it or fill
> it with diesel first?
>
> The third is the “trash filter” which the manual just calls a fuel filter
> and looks like just a mesh basket.  Presumably you would just swap new for
> old.  Not sure I am going to bother with that since I suspect it is going
> to be challenging to get to with limited access to that side of the engine.
>
>
>
>
> Thanks- Dave
>
>
>
> On Mar 30, 2017, at 7:17 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Depends on which filter you’re talking about.
>
>
>
> The Kabuto based Universal diesels I’ve had experience with (ditto the
> Betas) are self-bleeding. So if you’re changing the 10 micron filter on the
> engine, you just need to turn on the switch to activate the lift pump, and
> crank the engine. It might take a few extra seconds of cranking and a bit
> of throttle, but it will start.
>
>
>
> If, OTOH, you are talking about a Racor primary filter that is between the
> tank and the lift pump, you do have to bleed that one. But the Racor has so
> much filter area compared to the fuel flow in a small diesel that – unless
> you get into a batch of bad fuel – it doesn’t need changing very often. I
> think I’m on the third Racor in 14 years of owning my 38.
>
>
>
> As far as the 70-80 micron trash filter that is before the lift pump, if
> you have a Racor primary filter there is no real point in replacing this
> little filter.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *David Knecht via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:29 AM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
> *Cc:* David Knecht 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fuel filter replacement
>
>
>
> I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my
> Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine.
> The manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is
> what that means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the
> fuel pump and it will bleed i

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights w/ VHB tape & Dow 795

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Amazon is my source for VHB. A little cheaper and no charge 2 day shipping
if you are a Prime member. McMaster-Carr is great for lots of other stuff
though!

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 10:00 AM Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi,
>
> A great source for VHB tape and Dow 795 is McMaster-Carr.  You can
> purchase VHB tape in rolls of length 5, 15 and 36 yds at great prices.
>
> Rather than VHB #4991, I suggest using VHB #5952 which is designed for
> adhering to hard-to-bond surfaces, such
> as nylon, rigid vinyl, polypropylene, polystyrene, ABS, and powder-coated
> surfaces.  VHB #4991 is recommended for stainless steel, aluminum, glass, and
> sealed wood surface, but does not list any plastics.
>
> I used VHB #5952 on my fixed ports, and it has worked out great.  Here is
> a link to write up:
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts
>
>
> One can also get 10oz tubes of Dow 795 for $9/tube at McMaster-Carr
> (McMaster # 7452A21)
>
> VHB tapes:
> https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3505/=16ytix4
>
> VHB #4991 is listed on the page under:  3M Very-High-Bond Foam Tape with
> Adhesive on Both Sides
>
> VHB #5952 is listed on the page under:  3M Very-High-Bond Foam Tape with
> Adhesive on Both Sides for Hard-to-Bond Surfaces
>
>
>
> Dow 795:
> https://www.mcmaster.com/#dow-corning-795-adhesives/sealants/=16ytiq2
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On Mar 29, 2017, at 12:21 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2017 09:05:46 -0700
> From: svpegasus38 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C&C
> 37/40+
> Message-ID: <6y2308qu05qo0iyl92gqee2w.1490803546...@email.android.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> You want the 3M VHB 4991 0.091 thick. Amazon has it for $70 a 15yd roll. I
> used the 1/2 inch wide for my port lights. Use a helper when installing,
> you get 1 chance at it. Don't ask how I know this.?
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy?POYC?Pegasus?Lf38?
>  Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 3/29/17  06:20  (GMT-08:00) To:
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C&C 37/40+
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Kevin Driscoll

Associate
Vallaster Corl Architects, Inc.
Direct: 503 875 3493

Main: 503.228.0311
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Of course many of you know this, but modern tethers have a snap shackle
type connection at the lifejacket / harness for release under load (if
being dragged for example). This required for offshore racing. Also,
checkout Landfall Navigation  for
safety equipment. IMO their prices are consistently lower in this
department.

FWIW, Safety equipment gets better and/or cheaper every single season.
Safety procedures are also evolving every single season thanks to the
rigorous studies of accidents and fatalities through by our more
accomplished sailing peers. This is one area where I believe there is
little to gain and potentially a lot to lose, by not letting your equipment
and your practice of safety/good Seamanship evolve with the times.

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017, 4:37 AM BillBinaList via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

If you are being dragged in the water, you are probably dead, or soon to be
regardless of being face up or face down, or if the boat gets turned around
and manages to even locate you. Set up your jacklines, etc, as if the water
is really molten lava. Chances of recovery of someone who goes overboard
with a full crew aboard are statistically VERY low no matter what, and if
you are a single-hander, then your chances are essentially non-existent.
Plan accordingly.

Bill Bina

On 3/29/2017 7:22 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List wrote:

Just a thought on the foam pfd's; if they are water ski/kayak activity
vests, they probably won't keep you face up if you are unconscious (and not
being dragged through the water by the jacklines).

Tim
Ex 35/3



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Re: Stus-List Planning a transpacific sail with a C&C 110

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I would recommend John Kretschmer's book *Sailing a Serious Ocean. *It was
a great read and his tactics and perspective are a lot more applicable for
a 110 than Lynn and Larry's book or the Dashew's 70+ footers. I have read
all three and I find Kretschmer to be less dogmatic and relevant to modern
boats IMO. I also have little experience beyond 35 knots and ~15' seas
offshore.

KD

On Thu, Mar 9, 2017 at 11:04 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> water storage/watermaker, solar or wind power, fuel capacity would be my
> main concerns.  Sat phone, EPIRB, raft, etc.
>
> Joel
>
> On Thu, Mar 9, 2017 at 1:18 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I would add a couple of very good books (and they are available at no
> charge): “Surviving the Storm” and “Mariner’s Weather Handbook”, both by
> Linda and Steve Dashew.
> https://www.setsail.com/mwh.pdf
>
>
> https://cld.pt/dl/download/10d8878b-64d9-4ab4-b86e-9aa8ad3f97c8/Bibliografia%20Nautica/Manuais/SEAMANSHIP%20-%20Steve%20Dashew%20-%20Surviving%20the%20storm.pdf
>
>
> Marek
>
> *From:* Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 9, 2017 06:15
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Planning a transpacific sail with a C&C 110
>
> If you have not read it, I would recommend reading Lynn & Larry Pardey's *
> Storm Tactics* as well as watching their video.  Also, you might find
> their biography both entertaining and informative.  I too, believe that
> many, if not most boats can make the trip, but it is an issue of
> understanding what you are undertaking, and then preparing for it.
>
> And, of course, take some longer journeys in home waters before you head
> off.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Kevin Driscoll

Associate
Vallaster Corl Architects, Inc.
Direct: 503 875 3493

Main: 503.228.0311
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MK III full set of North racing sails

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Dimensions, year / amount of use, photos?

On Tue, Mar 7, 2017 at 6:48 PM John Irvin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> For what boat?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 7, 2017, at 1:28 PM, rshibe via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hey Bob,
> Are you selling Invictus, getting different boat???
> Ray
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Mar 7, 2017, at 11:16, Bob Curtiss via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Need to sell! NorLam 155% Genoa, Kevlar Blade w/battens,
>
> Kevlar main X20 grey, full spinnaker. $3,000, or best offer.
>
> _
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Kevin Driscoll

Associate
Vallaster Corl Architects, Inc.
Direct: 503 875 3493

Main: 503.228.0311
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List iPad Navigation

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

This story seems to indicate an abundance of stupidity at fault, not the
Ipad. The Ipad or android tablet etc, does not need wi-fi connection to
give an accurate position on a downloaded electronic vector or raster chart
anymore than a dedicated plotter does. An Ipad or dedicated plotter is *not*
AIS or Radar, both of which should have been used in the thick fog
mentioned in the article. A dedicated chartplotter on a vessel without AIS
or Radar, and an idiot skipper would have produced the same result.

One more reason not to believe everything you read on the internet. 2 cents.

KD

On Thu, Mar 2, 2017 at 5:13 PM Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here’s one more reason not to use an iPad for your primary (or only)
> navigation source.
>
>
>
>
> http://gcaptain.com/maib-experienced-launch-skippers-reliance-on-ipad-navigation-app-contributed-to-collision-on-humber-river/
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Kevin Driscoll

Associate
Vallaster Corl Architects, Inc.
Direct: 503 875 3493

Main: 503.228.0311
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Input on inflatable dinghy purchase

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Every dinghy is a compromise, but IMO an 8' - 6" with inflatable floor and
keel and 2-3.5 hp is the best of all worlds.

You will appreciate the smaller / lighter engine every time you have to put
it on or take if off the boat. We have a 4hp 2-stroke, which is much
lighter than a 4hp 4-stroke, and still I wish it were a bit lighter and
easier to take off/put on. No one will be happy with you if you are moving
around an anchorage faster than a 2 hp can manage anyway. For stowing on
deck or rolling up for a locker you can't beat it.

No one should be towing anything offshore and davits on a pretty C&C 110
would break my heart. 2 cents of course.

KD

On Wed, Mar 1, 2017 at 1:20 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Some years ago, I purchased a used. west marine, zodiac roll up at a yard
> sale and had an old 2hp kicker on it.  I used in the area you are moving
> to.  More specifically, on the wesport river where there was nearly always
> a 3 to 4 knot current (except slack tide).  It did the job for us.  Not
> nearly as effortlessly as a RIB but, it worked.  When I sold that boat the
> buyer offered to buy the roll up and I sold it.  So, As I was searching for
> the new boat I went into Ocean state job lot, A local chain, liquidation
> type place, where I had noticed they had sold some off brand PVC inflatable
> boats.  One 8'6 rollup and a 9'6 inflatable V hull, plywood floor.  I read
> and researched and researched and could find very little negative and a few
> positive write ups.  I opted for the latter and thought I should return
> it...  Well a waited too long for the return widow and kept it.
>
> After buying the new boat and launching, I finally unpacked, assembled and
> inflated the inflatable boat.  I couldn't be happier.  The boat held air
> all season and seemed comparable to any other boat on the dinghy dock.  I
> did end up buying a 2.5hp Lehr Propane powered OB for the back of it.  I
> love the propane option.  I use the same bottle for the grill and they can
> be changed out in less than a minute.  You motor till it dies, unscrew the
> expended bottle and screw in the new.  1 or 2 pulls and your off again.  It
> only weighs 35 lbs so putting it on the rail is pretty easy.
> The roll up was hard to control through the water due the the flat, soft
> bottom, the inflatable keel handles much better.  2.5 HP is enough for us
> for now and the boat can take up to 8hp I think.
>
> The boat is called a Bestway Caspian Hydoforce Pro 110 and I paid $450 for
> it.  The smaller one was $369 i believe.  I'm sure I'll get at least a few
> more years out of it.  It was tied to the dingy dock most of the summer and
> it still looks brand new.  The boat only weighs about 65lbs.  So, I can
> pull up on deck without too much effort and a spare halyard makes that even
> easier!
>
> I'd love a RIB with a 10hp but, I don't have davits and the engine is
> probably 100lbs.  So, the boat, davits an engine hoist...  your looking at
> 7 - 10K all in.  I spent 450 for the boat and 950 for the engine on sale at
> west marine.  I also had a bunch of WM gift cards from family members that
> saved me another 300 so my out of pocket was like under $1100 for the
> tender and motor!
>
> Oh, and the boat came with big tubes, a pump, oars, and the nice fill
> caps.  Again, I'm quite happy with the purchase.  I'm willing to bet the
> boat was made in the same factory as some of the big name boats.
>
>
> Danny
>
>
>
> On 3/1/2017 3:24 PM, Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Relocating our C&C 110 from a Midwest lake where I had no need for a
> tender to now sailing on Narragansett Bay, LI Sound, Buzzard's Bay,
> Vineyard and Nantucket Sounds, etc, I'm in need of a basic inflatable to
> serve as a tender in harbors without a launch service.  I've used them many
> times on charters but never really paid much attention to detail.
>
> I'm looking for something relatively compact for 2-4 people that is easy
> to set up and collapse and stow, so I think that's best a roll-up.  Early
> in my thinking, I'm eyeing something like the 8'6" Achillies LSI-260: 4
> person capacity/820lbs, Hypalon, overall weight 64 lbs, inflatable floor,
> with perhaps a ~4-5HP outboard. (Or maybe the 9'6" or 10'2" LSI versions of
> the same design..) I don't think I need a boat to plane, just basic
> transportation.  No davits, it will either be towed or stowed.
>
> I welcome input from those of you with inflatable experience to share your
> thoughts on brands, material, features, design, size, etc.  What factors
> should I be considering as I make my selection?
>
> Regards,
> Bob McLaughlin
> C&C 110 "Blue Devil"
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> 

Re: Stus-List Energy audit spreadsheet

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Here is a link to two more at the Pacific Cup page, similar to the one John
posted but a bit more descriptive. They only has sailing/racing and not
sitting around on anchor, but it has been vetted by many. It is actually a
requirement in the NOR to submit an energy plan/budget to race committee
before you can start. Not sure if this requirement is unique to Pacific
Cup, but a good one I believe.

https://pacificcup.org/kb/energy-management

On Wed, Dec 28, 2016 at 3:36 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> John,
>
> That's a good start!  I like that it has different calculations for
> anchoring and sailing.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Joel
>
> On Wed, Dec 28, 2016 at 3:28 PM, John Rand via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Joel, here's one I found online somewhere.  I can't really vouch for it.
> You'll just have to look it over carefully.
>
> John
>
> On Wed, Dec 28, 2016 at 2:24 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Happy New Year to all!
>
> I'm starting to think about adding solar panels when I get a new bimini.
> Does anyone have an energy audit spreadsheet they can share as a starting
> point?
>
> I've already switched to LEDS, so my power hogs are the refrigerator and
> auto-pilot.  The plotter and computer/monitor, phone charging all need to
> be considered, but I'm sure I'm missing stuff.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Kevin Driscoll

Associate
Vallaster Corl Architects, Inc.
Direct: 503 875 3493

Main: 503.228.0311
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

That video is an all time classic in my book. I can not believe it doesn't
have a gazillion views.

On Tue, Dec 6, 2016, 6:58 PM John McKay via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Damn Kevin I howled
>
> How often did I hear these conversation the last racing season!
>
> John
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 5:40 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Not sure why the ass end of the boat has so much difficulty following
> instructions: https://youtu.be/4MRunq1y2_A
>
> On Tue, Dec 6, 2016 at 1:45 PM Nauset Beach via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Another aspect of smoother end for end gybes with sheets and guys is
> having the foredeck make certain there is plenty of slack lazy guy at the
> chain plates prior to beginning the maneuver – how much slack is determined
> through practice.  When the pole is trimmed back as the boat turns down,
> and then tripped, the spin trimmer controls the kite with both sheets and
> there is no load on the new guy.  The mast man / foredeck should be able to
> drop the new guy into the jaw and push the pole out and make it on the mast
> without any real load on the pole via the guy.  The guy trimmer only trims
> back the new guy after the call of “Made” is heard from the foredeck, and
> then the spin trimmer eases the weather spin sheet as the new guy is
> brought in.
>
> And of course, the helmsman has to not turn up to the new course until
> that call as well…
>
> All it takes is a lot of practice to get everyone on the same page…  ;)
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 06, 2016 3:04 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling
>
> Think about it like this, if the center seam on the bottom panel of the
> chute is directly ahead of the boat (centered on the forestay) it is easy
> to move the chute side to side to make the pole on either side.  If the
> center seam has prematurely crossed the forestay to the leeward side then
> the foredeck person has to push the sail back to windward to make the pole.
> A simple light air practice exercise is to center the main, steer the boat
> keeping the Windex *CENTERED *between the tabs and then have the foredeck
> gybe the chute back and forth a few times.  Put a piece of tape on the
> center seam of the bottom panel to give a visible reference to the forestay.
> When racing, if the foredeck can complete the gybe and have the pole made
> on the mast while the Windex is still well between the tabs, it should go
> smoothly.  The speed of the turn is controlled by the helmsperson!  Watch
> the center seam!
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Tue, Dec 6, 2016 at 1:30 PM, John McKay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Yikes, and I have been blaming it on the foredeck guys!
>
> On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 12:09 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> As someone who does the pointy end on multiple racing boats, I fully
> concur. Almost all of the FUBAR kite moments are down to the ham-fisted
> monkey at the blunt end [image: ��]
> Cheers,
> Paul.
>
> 1974 27' MkII
> Sidney, BC.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Not sure why the ass end of the boat has so much difficulty following
instructions: https://youtu.be/4MRunq1y2_A

On Tue, Dec 6, 2016 at 1:45 PM Nauset Beach via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Another aspect of smoother end for end gybes with sheets and guys is
> having the foredeck make certain there is plenty of slack lazy guy at the
> chain plates prior to beginning the maneuver – how much slack is determined
> through practice.  When the pole is trimmed back as the boat turns down,
> and then tripped, the spin trimmer controls the kite with both sheets and
> there is no load on the new guy.  The mast man / foredeck should be able to
> drop the new guy into the jaw and push the pole out and make it on the mast
> without any real load on the pole via the guy.  The guy trimmer only trims
> back the new guy after the call of “Made” is heard from the foredeck, and
> then the spin trimmer eases the weather spin sheet as the new guy is
> brought in.
>
>
>
> And of course, the helmsman has to not turn up to the new course until
> that call as well…
>
>
>
> All it takes is a lot of practice to get everyone on the same page…  ;)
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 06, 2016 3:04 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling
>
>
>
> Think about it like this, if the center seam on the bottom panel of the
> chute is directly ahead of the boat (centered on the forestay) it is easy
> to move the chute side to side to make the pole on either side.  If the
> center seam has prematurely crossed the forestay to the leeward side then
> the foredeck person has to push the sail back to windward to make the pole.
>
> A simple light air practice exercise is to center the main, steer the boat
> keeping the Windex *CENTERED *between the tabs and then have the foredeck
> gybe the chute back and forth a few times.  Put a piece of tape on the
> center seam of the bottom panel to give a visible reference to the forestay.
>
> When racing, if the foredeck can complete the gybe and have the pole made
> on the mast while the Windex is still well between the tabs, it should go
> smoothly.  The speed of the turn is controlled by the helmsperson!  Watch
> the center seam!
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 6, 2016 at 1:30 PM, John McKay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Yikes, and I have been blaming it on the foredeck guys!
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 12:09 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> As someone who does the pointy end on multiple racing boats, I fully
> concur. Almost all of the FUBAR kite moments are down to the ham-fisted
> monkey at the blunt end [image: ��]
>
> Cheers,
>
> Paul.
>
>
>
> 1974 27' MkII
>
> Sidney, BC.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Short handed sailing; sail selection

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I concur with Marek. I have a stack pack and would personally prefer a
simple set of lazyjacks and a traditional mainsail cover.

On the 42' boat I race on, we keep the lazy jacks "away" forward by the
goose neck. Therefore, when raising the main they do not get in the way of
the battens. Before dropping, we deploy the lazy jacks "Up" drop the main,
and deal with flaking and sail ties back at the dock. The lazy jacks are
put "away" again before we put the sail cover on.

I follow roughly the same procedure on our boat with our stack pack. I
personally never understood people trying to raise their batten'd main with
the stack pack or lazy jacks deployed. 2 out of 3 times you are going to
catch at least one batten and potentially damage your main or at least
cause unnecessary chafe/wear.

It is possible to set up lazy jacks with bungee and lines led to the
cockpit for those with reduced mobility or the lazy among us. I wouldn't
find it necessary unless I were hoisting and dousing the main multiple
times in a day, say as in a charter situation where you were taking people
out every few hours.

Two cents.

Kevin
PDX

On Fri, Dec 2, 2016 at 11:42 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am not to try dissuading you about the stack pack; however, before you
> spring $$$ for that improvement, try a simple set of lazy jacks. The total
> cost of a set would be under $100 (especially, if you do it all yourself).
> I find them (lazy jacks) extremely useful, especially, if you single handle.
>
> Some people don’t like the lazy jacks (but the stack pack would have the
> same issues). The problems arise from the lines getting entangled in
> battens. The solution for that is to move the lines from the mast to the
> spreaders (half way is enough) and making sure that when you set the main
> or drop it you are reasonably close to wind (right into the wind,
> preferably).
>
> Marek
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>
> *From:* bushmark4--- via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, December 2, 2016 11:14
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* bushma...@aol.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Short handed sailing; sail selection
> Thanks to everyone for the awesome replies: you have set out the
> parameters for each type of sail and backed it up with experience!  If
> anyone out there is thinking of writing a book or article about sail
> selection, you guys have collectively written a whole chapter on short
> handed sailing!I like the 135 approach as a solo sail and the
> combination of a 100 and a 135 for spring and summer...   I am definitely
> looking at getting the stackpack for the main.   As an aside I was out a
> week or so ago and used the headsail only, and we had winds in the 12-18
> range with gusts to 27...while it was great fun, the sail was really tough
> to get in.  I should have tried Chuck's reefing idea then!
>
> thanks to everyone again; now I gotta see whats in the kitty!
>
> Richard
> S/V Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596.
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255 <(502)%20584-7255>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Andrew Burton 
> Sent: Fri, Dec 2, 2016 9:24 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Short handed sailing; sail selection
>
> As has been noted, it's all about personal preference. One thing we C&C
> owners have going for us is the fact that our boats perform better than
> most out there. With that in mind, I mostly fly my working jib, which looks
> like it's about 100%, maybe 110%. Even in light air I go better than most
> of the Benehuntecats.
> Three things make this one my choice: it's easy to tack around my
> babystay, easy to grind in, and when the breeze is up, it still looks good
> and I don't need to worry about it breaking in a big puff.
> I'm not racing, so I don't need to get every tenth of a knot out of the
> boat. When I do race, I have a 155 that comes way back to the back of the
> house and is a bear to tack...or so it seems from my perch behind the wheel.
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Allen,

Here is the practical sailor issue with the hook and loop article:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwhcX19YaPJ8QXRINkZab0tnSzg/view?usp=drivesdk

Let me know if it doesn't work for you.

Kevin
PDX

On Sun, Nov 20, 2016, 6:44 AM Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alan,
>
>
>
> The original Velcro was very strong, but everything else I’ve tried has
> not lasted long.  My panels are now all screwed to the overhead.  I was
> tired of watching them fall off the ceiling when bashing into big waves.
> The SS screws are all capped with covers to match the overhead.  Looks neat
> and professional, but a pain to remove by hand.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *ALAN
> BERGEN via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, November 19, 2016 11:47
>
>
> *To:* C&C 
> *Cc:* ALAN BERGEN 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Velcro Adhesive
>
>
>
> I'm replacing all of the ceiling access panels (1/8" plywood with cloth
> covering) with FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic).  The existing ones are
> screwed in.  I want to use Velcro instead.  What is the  recommended
> adhesive for this? Input from anyone who has first hand experience would be
> appreciated.
>
>
>
> Alan Bergen
>
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>
> Rose City YC
>
> Portland, OR
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Alan, practical sailor reviewed hook and loop fasteners recently. Suffice
it to say, as with everything boat related, evolution happens... in a good
way. I was very impressed with the options available, some absurdly strong.
I will track it down and send to you.

Are you out tomorrow for the Sunday series? Velocity is still at Schooner
Creek so I  am going to guest crew on Fury, Fred's gorgeous Rob Ball
designed 44 and see what 14 more feet of C&C feels like ;)

Best, Kevin

On Sat, Nov 19, 2016, 8:19 PM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> OK Dennis,
>
> What do you mean Snap In?  Did you install snaps or maybe build a teak
> frame and stretch mosquito screen like a painting, and wedge it into the
> fiberglass liner somehow making it stay there?  Surely you have some
> cleaver hocos-pocus or little round head screws?
>
> Please say master. . .
>
>
> On Nov 19, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Try some 3M Command strips.  They make some with hook and loop.  I think
> they may be the picture hanging strips.  At the very least, the adhesive
> will come off without staining.
>
> I use 3M Command hooks in the galley to hang important things like bottle
> openers.  :)  They've been attached to the cabin headliner for a few years
> now.  I used to use the suction cup hooks.  Had to replace the cups every
> few years.
>
> Just for the record, I HATE Velcro strips and the adhesive that stains
> gelcoat.  I spent hours trying to remove the stuff from Touche' from the
> PO.  Never did get it all off.
>
> When I had screens made for Touche', I made them so them snap in.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Sat, Nov 19, 2016 at 10:46 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'm replacing all of the ceiling access panels (1/8" plywood with cloth
> covering) with FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic).  The existing ones are
> screwed in.  I want to use Velcro instead.  What is the  recommended
> adhesive for this? Input from anyone who has first hand experience would be
> appreciated.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

While we are on the topic, could anyone recommend a good moisture meter for
personal use?


On Tue, Nov 8, 2016 at 12:38 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a surveyor that in addition to the normal moisture meter used an
> infrared camera.  Temperature variances could show or confirm all types
> internal inconsistencies.  It was on the pricey side of the survey spectrum
> but provided me a little extra peace of mind.  ~$800.
>
> Dave at coast2coast marine surveys.
>
> You might also consider getting a IR camera attachment for yourself.   In
> addition to water ingress you can see electrical problems like high
> resistance/corroded connections and engine problems like belt
> misalignments.   Christmas is coming. ~$200.
>
> FLIR ONE Thermal Imager for Android
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5PRY52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mBJiybVJT2J45
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 8, 2016, 9:24 AM Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
> A survey on a boat we are looking to buy turned up some elevated moisture
> readings on the port side under the genoa track.  I would do this repair
> myself as I understand what needs to be done, however my wife is insisting
> I leave this job to a very experienced professional.
>
> In the affected area I need someone to remove the deck skin, remove the
> moist core, and replace the core in a 2'x6' area except under the stanchion
> base and genoa track where I would like it to be replaced with solid
> epoxy.  Then finish the job nicely.
>
> Does anyone have any recommendations for work like this?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Ryan
>
> (Former 30mki owner)
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I am not offering my opinion either way, but all of the delivery skippers
I've met of late rely exclusively on their personal tablets rather than
owners electronics for a number of reasons. They trust them far offshore.

A ruggedized watertight case is mandatory and, as with anything electronic,
a back up of course.

On Mon, Oct 31, 2016, 7:28 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I do not believe that a tablet of any kind is a good enough navigation
> instrument (I have a Garmin 720 and I trust it much more (I can see the
> screen in full sunlight without problems, it is completely waterproof and I
> can operate it with keys (not touch)), but I find that if you want a tablet
> for anything you are much better off with a low cost ( I don't necessarily
> mean cheap) tablet that you can use as disposable. I had very good success
> with a Dell Venue Pro (Windows), an Acer (also Windows) and an ASUS Android
> one. I also find that the 7-8 inch tablets are much less prone to
> shattering
> problems (they are simply much easier to handle and they have a size that
> is
> much better for keeping in one's hand). The cost can be as low as just
> around $100 (8" Android) or around $200 for an 8" Windows. For that money
> you can break 3 and buy the 4th and you just come about to the cost of the
> Surface Pro or worse yet to the cost of a cheap iPad.
>
> None of the generally available tablets is waterproof or even hardened, so
> I
> would not use it in the cockpit where it might be subjected to water
> damage.
>
>
> If you want a keyboard, you can easily buy a BT keyboard for under $30. Add
> 410 more an you have a complete system with a carrying case and keyboard.
>
> I have a Surface at work and I don't find the screen any better than 1/4
> price Dell Venue (or even 1/10 price Acer). It is only bigger. True, the
> case is metal, but if you drop it a few times on the ground, the screen
> will
> break.
>
> A word of caution: If you buy a Windows tablet, spend more and get a 64 GB
> version (or bigger). With 32 GB you will have a major juggling task if you
> need to make a major system upgrade. This unfortunately means that the
> majority of tablets that are available on sale are out.
>
> Marek
> 2015 8" Dell Venue Pro (Win 10)
> 2012 7" Asus (Android)
> 2014 8" Acer Iconia (Android)
> Ottawa, ON
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 31, 2016 17:40
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle 
> Subject: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have a Garmin GPSmap 740 chartplotter and a Garmin radar, but I am
> looking
> to buy a tablet computer (possibly a Microsoft surface or an iPad) to
> supplement the Garmin unit as an electronic chartplotter (running navionics
> and raster charts) as well as just being my general computer - for writing
> emails, web browsing, and using Microsoft word.
>
> I was looking hard at the Microsoft surface because it comes with a
> keyboard, however it does not have an internal GPS receiver.   I'm sure
> they
> make USB GPS receivers though.
>
> My requirements are:  a good keyboard, a touch screen, GPS (for running nav
> apps) and it needs to be sturdy tough enough to hold up reasonably well on
> a
> boat.  I have destroyed two iPads (the screens shattered) by traveling with
> them and being a tad clumsy, so i don't trust myself with iPads anymore...
> I'm looking for something hardier.
>
> Would love to hear what people out there are using on their boats.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Ryan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl sealant

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

What Dennis said. Don't bother with anything else. (I've tried others...)

On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 11:35 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl we
> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have that on
> my old hard drive which cratered….. can anyone give me the best source?
>
>
>
> Thanks, Gary
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing 2GM20F

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Other reason I've heard for removing impeller is to avoid it taking a 'set'
from sitting in the same position all winter. Somewhere, sometime I read
that you should do this if leaving the boat for longer than 2 weeks! It's
pretty rare that we are not on our boat at least every two weeks even in
winter, but if I were setting my boat on the hard for the winter, I
probably would remove the impeller.

On Fri, Oct 14, 2016 at 11:50 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> ???
> I think you are trying to find engine antifreeze. I have never tried that,
> I always have used the pink propylene glycol sold all over the place to
> winterize water systems in boats, vacation cottages, and RVs. It has no
> ethylene glycol in it, you can drink it. I use the same stuff for the
> engine and the water tanks.
> This is not engine coolant and is only used for winter layup. Someone on a
> forum somewhere also explained that while ethylene glycol is quite
> poisonous to DRINK, it does about the same harm as propylene glycol if
> dumped overboard.
> Joe
> Coquina
> Still two months away from antifreeze :)
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve
> Thomas via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2016 2:44 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Steve Thomas
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing 2GM20F
>
> You might think that, but it is not.
> Recochem used to make a propylene glycol engine antifreeze here that was
> widely sold under various brand names, notably Prestolite, but they don't
> anymore. It came as a something of a shock when it was no longer available.
> Some automotive speed shops have a version that is imported from the
> States, but it is absurdly expensive. None of the former retailers I talked
> to, including Canadian Tire, could give me a reason for its disappearance
> from the marketplace. There is sometimes available a premium plumbing
> antifreeze that contains propylene glycol in some proportion but it doesn't
> say in what proportion, and it still contains ethyl alcohol. In short, it
> is difficult and expensive to find here, and for no apparent reason. I have
> resigned myself to using the environmentally unfriendly ethylene glycol.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
>  "Della Barba wrote:
> ??
> Propylene glycol is very easy to get around here. I would think it would
> be a very easy thing to find in Canada too. You all do have RVs and
> vacation houses up there, right???
> Joe
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek
> Dziedzic via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2016 1:06 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Marek Dziedzic
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing 2GM20F
>
> There is a school of thought that maintains that the impeller might
> deteriorate in the antifreeze, especially, since most of the AF is Ethylene
> Glycol. IIRC, the better one would be Propylene Glycol, but it is not
> easily available.
>
> Btw. if AF drains, it is only better (you don’t have to worry about water
> diluting the AF.
>
> Marek
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>
> From: David Platt via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2016 10:37
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: David Platt
> Subject: Re: Stus-List WInterizing 2GM20F
>
>
> Tim
>
> I am curious about why you advocate taking the impeller out.  Won't
> antifreeze drain out of your engine when you take the cover off the water
> pump?
>
> Respectfully
>
> david
>
> C&C 32 Wanderer
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Mainsail replacement considerations

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

One thing I forgot to add about North 3Diit is VERY expensive! (same
stuff they used on Volvo 60's this past edition)

On Thu, Oct 13, 2016 at 9:12 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think the knowledge and service of a local sail loft is invaluable.
> They come to your boat and take measurements.  Ask questions and help
> design a custom sail to fit your needs.  I only have Quantum in my area
> so... I have Quantum sails.  They are responsive and provide the personal
> service I'm looking for.
>
> I had the Tides-Marine Strong track system added when I purchased my new
> mainsail.  I wouldn't do it any other way.   It is a quality upgrade which
> I strongly recommend.
>
> You can have a sail pack made anytime but I have also been very happy with
> the usefulness and ease of having a sailpack.
>
> Get multiple quotes and take them to competing sail lofts.  Have them
> explain the differences between the quotes.  The sail makers will recognize
> the design/cost differences and the advantages/disadvantages between two
> seemingly similar spec sheets.  I found that despite having what I thought
> should be similar spec sails they were very different prices.  Once the
> sail maker adjusted the designs to match, the prices were within a few
> hundred dollars.  The local service, adjustments, corrections, and test
> sail all more than made up for the few hundred dollars difference in price.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yTXFxb2RQVGJqb0E
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yakFDZERscXFTaUE
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Oct 13, 2016 8:56 AM, "Dave S via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> Just received the results from the fall check-up and the local sail
> loft has diagnosed Windstar's ('85 33-2) mainsail as "beyond
> expired".   Cue the Monty Python...
>
> The current main has two sets of reef points, (cringle at the leech
> and and ring-on-webbing-straps at the luff.)
> No telltales other than streamers off the leech.
> IIRC there may be a leech line.
> 4 partial battens battens.
> There are two cringles at the clew, one above the other, and what I
> believe is called a "shelf" of lighter weight cloth along the foot.  Have
> never used this out of ignorance, but perhaps I should.
> it has a rope foot, slides on the luff.
>
> I will have Rolly Tasker in Thailand quote, as well as UK sails here in
> Toronto.
>
>
> I value the 33-2's performance but most of my sailing is recreational
> sailing here on Lake Ontario.  Would like to distance race but not looking
> to be ultra-competitive at the top level.  Don't want to buy another
> Main for this boat in the next decade.
>
> Any thoughts or recommendations on a replacement, or comments on sail
> lofts?   Many thanks!
>
> Dave
> Windstar 33-2
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Mainsail replacement considerations

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

If I were buying a sail right now I would be reading everything on Brian
Hancock's blog about lofts, cuts, and fiber. You can find it here.
 This guy is
a professional and up on the latest developments in fiber technology, which
is valuable since it is changing every season. He also has a book *Maximum
Sail Power* which may be a little dated in the fiber department, but the
fundamentals are still there.

FWIW, I race on a boat with North 3Di (which is / has replaced 3DL) and the
sails are bomb proof and fast. They will outlast any Dacron sail IMO. They
take a beating and keep on ticking. The taffeta laminate sails don't like
to be neglected or too much UV, which is why their longevity suffers in the
hands of some cruisers.

KD
30-2

On Thu, Oct 13, 2016 at 8:12 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> that's where I got my head sail this year.
>
> Danny
>
> On 10/13/2016 10:59 AM, Martin Kane via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Dave
>
> Check out Precision Sails in Victoria BC. They have a great on-line site.
> Sails are made Asia somewhere but inspected and shipped from BC.  I got a
> 135 and asym from them this year. Very happy with the product and price.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> C&C 29-2 Recalculating
>
> MCC Toronto
>
>
>
> *From:* Dave S [mailto:syerd...@gmail.com ]
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 13, 2016 8:56 AM
> *To:* C&c Stus List  
> *Subject:* Stus-List Mainsail replacement considerations
>
>
>
> Just received the results from the fall check-up and the local sail
> loft has diagnosed Windstar's ('85 33-2) mainsail as "beyond
> expired".   Cue the Monty Python...
>
>
>
> The current main has two sets of reef points, (cringle at the leech
> and and ring-on-webbing-straps at the luff.)
>
> No telltales other than streamers off the leech.
>
> IIRC there may be a leech line.
>
> 4 partial battens battens.
>
> There are two cringles at the clew, one above the other, and what I
> believe is called a "shelf" of lighter weight cloth along the foot.  Have
> never used this out of ignorance, but perhaps I should.
>
> it has a rope foot, slides on the luff.
>
>
>
> I will have Rolly Tasker in Thailand quote, as well as UK sails here in
> Toronto.
>
>
>
>
>
> I value the 33-2's performance but most of my sailing is recreational
> sailing here on Lake Ontario.  Would like to distance race but not looking
> to be ultra-competitive at the top level.  Don't want to buy another
> Main for this boat in the next decade.
>
>
>
> Any thoughts or recommendations on a replacement, or comments on sail
> lofts?   Many thanks!
>
>
>
> Dave
>
> Windstar 33-2
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Thanks everybody. Randy, if it were not too much trouble it would be great
to see your spreadsheet. Dennis sent one that I could definitely use too. I
have this great IRC version, but it doesn't apply for PHRF.  Regatta Rasta
man is pay to play so I am going to pass on that. We'll be doing time on
distance with the course set up ahead of thin time.

Keep sharing your experience of you have more to add. Thanks again
everyone!

On Mon, Oct 10, 2016, 6:39 PM RANDY  wrote:

> Yeah we just had one yesterday.  Start times per PHRF rating were
> calculated using TOT (A=715, B=515) assuming a two-hour race.  We just race
> laps around three pre-designated marks in our lake.  90 minutes into the
> race, the next mark ahead for the lead boat becomes the last mark everybody
> has to round.  We don't use an RC boat for this; starting at the right time
> is an honor system (and the finish order is obvious; no correction
> needed).  We use a pair of no-wake-zone buoys as the start line, and the
> marina channel markers as the finish line.  You can see our SIs here,
> including a table of start times per PHRF rating (assuming a 2:00 p.m.
> start for the first (slowest) boat racing) -
> https://csyc.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/CSYC-2016-PursuitRace.pdf.  I
> don't have the spreadsheet that was used to figure these start times, but I
> could probably get it if you want it.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> --
> *From: *"Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C&C List" 
> *Cc: *"Kevin Driscoll" 
> *Sent: *Monday, October 10, 2016 5:16:20 PM
>
> *Subject: *Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race
>
> Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race'
> <http://www.sailmagazine.com/racing/pursuit-racing-a-great-way-to-start/>before?
> I am curious how you went about it.
>
> Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each
> boat's rating. These are our contestants
> <http://www.regattanetwork.com/clubmgmt/applet_registrant_list.php?regatta_id=13452&custom_report_id=2>.
> I figure there will be three starts. 1 for the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No
> Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the Pursuit racers. This is the
> first race in our winter series, which runs till March. We thought we might
> kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for your input!
>
> Kevin
> 30-2
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race'

before? I am curious how you went about it.

Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each
boat's rating. These are our contestants
.
I figure there will be three starts. 1 for the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No
Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the Pursuit racers. This is the
first race in our winter series, which runs till March. We thought we might
kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for your input!

Kevin
30-2
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Stus-List Replacement Nova Cool fan

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

My Nova Cool fan needs replacing. The fan is in the Nidec TA450DC line,
model #A32655-16. 12v rated at .62 amps 2 wires.

I've looked on Amazon, but could not find an exact replacement. Some with
.49 amps, some with .8 amps, 3 leads, 4 leads, etc.

Can anyone share their experience? Here is a link to photos of the fan and
the installation. https://goo.gl/photos/F9Y84y7WB28NSykx9

I prefer ordering on Amazon, but open to other ideas.

Kevin
30-2
Portland, USA
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Re: Stus-List RC issues.

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

http://www.answers.com/Q/What_exactly_does_the_Sailboat_racing_term_a_bullet_mean_start_first_round_first_finish_first_or_just_finish_first?#slide=2

Do you race much Steve?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2016 at 2:30 PM Steve Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What do you mean by "the RC gets a bullet" ?
> I mean, I get it that there is supposed to be a gun culture in certain
> places, but I am guessing you are using the word as a scoring term that I
> am not familiar with.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
>  Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  wrote:
> In our winter and spring series, the RC gets a bullet for serving. It is In
> the last 4 years since I've been involved I haven't known of any trouble
> securing an RC boat, even on the coldest and wettest of circumstances.
> Technically serving as RC for one race is 'mandatory,' but there are always
> more crews that would like to volunteer (and grab a bullet) than there are
> weekends available. An RC boat not showing for duty would be scandalous in
> the community I would think. Never heard of it happening here.
>
> An alternative to getting a boat out is the option of assembling RC on a
> dock or pier and running the race from there. This is an option to RC crews
> in our series that I've seen a handful of times in the last few years.
>
> I would say getting an average of your other scores is not enough carrot,
> IMO.
>
> Kevin,
> Portland
> C&C 30mkII
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List RC issues.

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

In our winter and spring series, the RC gets a bullet for serving. It is In
the last 4 years since I've been involved I haven't known of any trouble
securing an RC boat, even on the coldest and wettest of circumstances.
Technically serving as RC for one race is 'mandatory,' but there are always
more crews that would like to volunteer (and grab a bullet) than there are
weekends available. An RC boat not showing for duty would be scandalous in
the community I would think. Never heard of it happening here.

An alternative to getting a boat out is the option of assembling RC on a
dock or pier and running the race from there. This is an option to RC crews
in our series that I've seen a handful of times in the last few years.

I would say getting an average of your other scores is not enough carrot,
IMO.

Kevin,
Portland
C&C 30mkII

On Wed, Sep 28, 2016 at 8:14 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Forgot to mention, the boat that volunteers as RC for a race is given the
> average of its other scores in the series for that race.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 28, 2016, at 7:04 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hi Charlie,
>
> In my club for keelboats we have a ten-week spring series and a ten-week
> summer series on Wednesday nights, and a five-week fall series on Sunday
> afternoons.  We generally get two dozen boats in the summer, half that in
> the fall, and somewhere in between during the spring.  We expect every boat
> to volunteer as RC once per year, so it almost works out as long as our
> membership doesn't keep declining.  We generally have to beg, cajole, etc.
> but we get the spots filled.
>
> We use the stick first: if a boat doesn't fulfill its obligation to serve
> as RC once in the year, we replace its highest place in a race with a DNC.
>
> But we're considering adding a carrot, because we sometimes have more
> series races than boats in the club.  The carrot under consideration is
> giving an extra throw-out to each boat that does RC a second time during
> the year (we give one throw-out per series as a general policy).
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Charlie Nelson via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *cenel...@aol.com
> *Sent: *Wednesday, September 28, 2016 3:07:24 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List RC issues.
>
> I am looking for ideas on various ways to encourage club members to serve
> as Race Committee and Mark Boat personnel.
>
> Currently, our Club Racing Chairperson cajoles, begs, etc. club members
> who race to serve periodically as the PRO, RC and MB crew. Since we have a
> one design Sunfish fleet,
> they often provide this for the PHRF racers and the PHRF racers
> reciprocate for the Sunfish races.
>
> If a PHRF racer misses a PHRF race for which he/she serves as a RC, SB, MB
> or PRO, their score that day is the same as their average race score for
> the series so they do not suffer
> in scoring or qualification for the series when they serve. Of course this
> does not provide an incentive to serve.
>
> One local club has pretty regular RC and SB crew.
>
> Another,without that luxury, rotates it among the PHRF racers, awarding a
> 2nd place to the boat who serves and limits this service to
> one race day per series. Basically they induce racers to serve with at
> least a couple of 2nd places that they might not otherwise receive.
>
> Some ideas we are considering include getting an iron clad commitment to
> serve as PRO/RC from each racer which commits them to do it on a specific
> race day and requires them to find a replacement
> crew if something comes up that requires them to bow out. If they cannot
> find a replacement or trade dates with someone, then the racing that day
> would be cancelled.
>
> We are also considering giving a modest 'stipend' to encourage some club
> members to consider taking this on for our ~ 10 race day 2017 PHRF season
> (6 race Saturdays and 2 weekend regattas).
>
> I prefer to give something to those who serve (2nd place on their service
> day, free/reduced series or regatta entry fees, etc.) since it basically
> impossible to 'punish' a volunteer club member who doesn't show up
> to 'do his duty'. I also believe a carrot is more effective than a stick!
>
> Any list suggestions/examples would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/cb
>
>
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. 

Re: Stus-List Filtered Fresh water

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

We do not filter on board, but always attach an RV filter
to
the hose we are filling with. Pracitical Sailor also reviewed this, I
believe. I would suggest adding this to your routine even with a filter set
up. It will prolong the filter life and keep your non-drinking water
cleaner.

We were just aiming to improve taste, which it has. We turn our tanks over
frequently and bleach them twice a year or so (we use the boat year round.)
We almost never have tanky water because of this. My 2 cents.

Kevin
30-2
Portland

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 7:34 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> FYI – I had a filter that made things WORSE. It would allow
> algae/bacteria/gross stuff to grow in it. I removed the filter and dumped a
> whole quart bottle of bleach in each tank. I let it sit for an hour, added
> water to the tanks, ran them dry, refilled with water, and the tank water
> has been nice ever since.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> Bina - gmail via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 13, 2016 10:08
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bill Bina - gmail
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Filtered Fresh water
>
>
>
> I had a household type in line filter with a paper element freeze. After
> it thawed, it would no longer pass anything, including water. The wet
> fibers apparently swelled when they froze, creating a solid barrier.
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
>
> On 9/13/2016 9:56 AM, Don Harben via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> I strong suggest NOT allowing any type of filter to freeze once it has had
> water in it.  Holes are created in the filter medium.
>
>
>
> I am involved with two land based water purification systems sourcing from
> lake water and one from a cistern.  It has has been an interesting learning
> curve involving filtering and UV treatment compared to "Water Makers" using
> reverse osmosis.
>
>
>
> Don
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
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Re: Stus-List 1988 30 MKII For Sale

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

We love our 30-2! We feel like it is the best of all worlds, a modern'ish
boat and efficient interior, low cost of ownership (slip, sails, bottom
paint etc) aft cabin!, hot water heater, a nice simple diesel and other
trappings. Both former owners of 30 mkII's that we know in Portland have
both told us that they very much regret selling their boats. One has
offered to trade / buy ours from us! Rob, you are making the right decision
sticking with the Rob Ball era (IMHO) and Jerome, you will love the 30-2!

Kevin
30-2

On Thu, Sep 1, 2016 at 6:11 AM Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Robert.  I am interested in your boat.  I plan on being at rendezvous and
> could see it then.  Jerry.  J&J. 27-5.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 31, 2016, at 9:50 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'm moving on up.   For sale:
>
> 1988 30 MKII
> Newer interior visions
> Bottom sided custom cockpit cushions
> Brand spamming new force 10 stove and propane system.
> Rocna and Fortress with chain/nylon Rhodes
> Yanmar 2GM20F. Well maintained, runs great.
> New two blade prop in 2013
> SH VHF with AIS receiver.
> Nice cockpit table.
> Teak and Holly floor and interior woodwork in nice shape. Magma grill
> propane grill.
> Full battened main, 135 and 110 all in OK shape for cruising/daysailing,
> if you are competitive racer then you might want some upgrades.
> Whisker pole
> Running rigging is fine, again if you are a serious racer you might want
> to spend some dough.
> New rudder bearing 2013
> Lots more...
> Located in Mystic CT
> 34K Before I get a broker involved. Will list with a broker soon for 37K.
>
> Rob Gallagher
> 860-389-6900
> trys...@gmail.com
>
> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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>
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Winch replacement and winch failures

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Dennis, I would definitely be interested in the Barient 28 to replace one
of my sad cabin top winches. Is it a two speed 28? Would take the bearings
too for backup. Let me know what you want for the winch.

Kevin
30-2

On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 9:29 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Well, some of the 28's are indestructible.  The alloy Barient and Barlows
> suffer from metal failures.
>
> Failure mode 1 - wallowing out of the pawl sockets.  This can result in
> the pawl not operating smoothly or at all.
>
> Failure mode 2 - breaking off of teeth in the drum skirt.  This usually
> happens when the headsail flogs violently with a wrap or two on a winch.
>
> Note: I've only seen these failures on alloy winches.  Stainless and
> chrome/bronze winches are much more robust.
>
> When Touche' had alloy winches, I kept a spare 28 just in case.  I have
> upgraded to chrome/bronze or stainless winches so the spare 28 (non-ST) is
> available.  I also have some spare roller bearings for Barient 28 Non-ST's
> if anybody needs them.  Sorry, no pawls or springs.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 11:06 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Those 28s are virtually indistructable but they are heavy. What size are
>> you going up to?
>> Joel
>>
>>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Mainsheet 37/40

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I googled Bruno's 37/40R (as the 37/40xl is a "maybe someday" boat for us)
and this is what I came up with: http://www.phrfne.org/html/boats/cc37.htm It's
a briefing on ratings for 37/40's.

The very last line is this:

"Be careful with a boat called *WAVE TRAIN*. Just about everything is
different with this
boat."

Sounds like you have a special boat Bruno!

KD
30-2

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 8:01 AM Bruno Mannsberger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On ours, there is a through deck block that is inset within the boom so
> that the exit of the block lines up just below the centre of the boom. The
> main sheet is protected from the boom cut out by a stainless steel guard
> that is shown in the picture. Chaffing is a definite possibility based on
> the design.
>
>
>
> Bruno Mannsberger
>
> C&C37/40 R
>
> Wave Train
>
> Ladysmith BC
>
>
>
>
>
> *From: *Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *August 25, 2016 7:33 AM
> *To: *C&C List 
> *Cc: *Josh Muckley 
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Mainsheet 37/40
>
>
>
> Evidently not the same on all 37+ or 37/40s.  Mine doesn't look anything
> like that.  I can't quite tell from the picture where the chafe is
> occurring but it kinda looks like the entry box (the place where it enters
> the boom on the right side of the picture) is missing a sheave.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Aug 24, 2016 6:41 PM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> My mainsheet enters the boom and is chafing at the entry point. There is
> another small block aft the pulls on the main sheet and seems to be causing
> The chafe. Is this standard on other C&Cs?
>
> http://i.imgur.com/tLfmXHf.jpg
>
> Brian Fry
> La Neige
> Havre de Grace MD
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Gerry et al.

~$90 with shipping is too much to justify for my needs. Thanks. Back on the
market.

On Tue, Aug 23, 2016 at 8:37 AM Gerry via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Kevin  Driscoll was first in line.
> If he is not going to purchase it I will let you know.
>
>
> On 08/22/16, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Gerry,
>
> Is the WP30 still available.  I would still like it.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 1:13 PM, Gerry via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>>  I have WP30 Autopilot I removed form my C&C 35 mk3.
>> It came with the boat, not sure how well it worked but if you
>> need any parts this could save you a bundle of money and time.
>>
>> Let me know if anyone has interest.
>>
>> Gerry Fennessey
>> 35MK3 Fianna
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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>
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Re: Stus-List Owners' Database

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

 A single photo would be great, and website (for those that have blogs.)

On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 11:28 AM S Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sounds good Stu.
>
>
> Steve Thomas
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Stu via CnC-List" 
> To: 
> Cc: "Stu" 
> Sent: Friday, August 19, 2016 14:13
> Subject: Stus-List Owners' Database
>
>
> > We haven't left the dock yet so I have been spending a bit of time on the
> > new owners' database.
> >
> > What fields do you want to see besides these:
> > 1. Last Name
> > 2. First Name
> > 3. Mate
> > 4. Home City, State, Country
> > 5. Boat Name
> > 6. Length
> > 7. Model
> > 8. Year
> > 9. Hull number
> >
> > I want to keep the database and searches as simple as possible and not be
> > confusing to our members.
> >
> > All suggestions greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Stu
> >
>
>
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Re: Stus-List jackline use

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

The J42 I race on has extra tethers at the bow and mast for double clipping
in. I see how they would work in theory, but in practice I wasn't a fan.
Since I have a double tether (short and long), when at the mast and it's
bumpy I leave my long tether on the jackline and clip my short one to a
strong point at the mast. Likewise, when on the bow, I found that the D
ring I wanted to clip in to (on my short lead) was occupied by the extra
tether that was left up there. This extra tether (on the bow) also fouled a
bit during sail changes. On the way out of San Francisco for the Pacific
Cup Race* this year, winds were rarely below 30 kts (but not gusty) and
large seas that were very confused. Neither myself nor the other fore-deck
guy used the extra tethers once that I know of.

Re: High Jacklines. I don't see how high jacklines would not be a nuisance
during sail changes and I think they would preclude flying a spinnaker,
certainly dip pole gybes. I also don't believe a pulpit to be a worthy
strong point and any of our boats. In the event that someone were thrown
and loaded the jackline, I would assume the additional leverage created by
having a jackline tied to the pulpit above the deck would quite likely rip
the pulpit out of the deck (many pulpits are not through bolted) or at the
very least bend it back and slacken all of the lifelines. It doesn't sound
like a best practice to me though I could see the convenience if bending
down to pick up a jackline is becoming troublesome.

Just my modest experience and opinion

Kevin
30-2

*We dropped out the Pacific Cup because salt water contaminated our fresh
water supply. Keep and eye on your water tank vents when the going is
really rough!

Here is a compelling video from J46 Riva
, another boat at our club
(Portland Yacht Club) who was also in the Pacific Cup race this year. Riva
had a medical emergency ~1/2 way to Hawaii. The situation was handled
professionally by all involved and the crew member recovered before the
finish. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFwvOv7Lluc&feature=em-upload_owner

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 8:43 AM Bmue via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi david.
> Tied off at the pushpit, pulpit and threaded through the ring of a shroud
> cleat. So they ran about waist height, which makes clipping in and running
> the carabiner ahead or behind you a breeze. Also great if you have more
> than one person going up on deck. We'd take them down when making landfall.
> Always felt safe, no clutter on the deck. I have pics i can email directly
> if you like.
> Bettina
>
> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:22, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I have never heard of “high” jacklines.  What do you attach them to behind
> the mast?  Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
>
> On Aug 16, 2016, at 11:05 AM, Bmue via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Try using  high jacklines. Easy to clip into, nothing in your feet to trip
> on, and you can grab them as a last resort.
> Much preferable to having lines on the deck.
>
> Bettina
>
> On Aug 16, 2016, at 7:29, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> This is interesting subject for me:  I’ve been told to twist the jacklines
> and to keep them flat.  Twisted I’ve found they have a tendency to roll
> under your feet.
>
> Just curious what others do.
>
>
>
>
> *On Behalf Of *Andrew Burton via CnC-List
>
> A couple of tips: Jacklines should be twisted so they don't lie flat on
> the deck. Makes them easier to pick up. And they should be as tight as
> practical; if they're loose, they will tend to bind as your carabiner runs
> along them.
>
>
>
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>
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>
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Re: Stus-List C&C Rendezvous - June, 2017 - St. Georges Bermuda

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Re: Organ Donation. Didn't see Bermuda on any of these lists, but I am sure
the scooters do some damage!

http://www.pbs.org/newshour/updates/country-highest-organ-donation-rates/
https://top5ofanything.com/list/5990556d/Countries-with-the-Highest-Organ-Donation-Rates

On Mon, Aug 8, 2016 at 12:28 PM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interesting little scooter-related factoid:
> Bermuda is the biggest per capita source of donor organs in the world.
>
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> On Mon, Aug 8, 2016 at 2:42 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> But Joel, consider how much fun a drunken post-race-party scooter ride
>> from Hamilton back to St George’s Dinghy Club would be in the darK…   :^)
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
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>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Hard bimini

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Here is a good step by step on a Hard dodger build from PNW sailors, Andy
Cross.

http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/cruising-news/roger-dodger/

On Wed, Aug 3, 2016 at 1:35 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Only best pictures of the dodger are actually the ones I took for the
> solar panels.  I'll see about taking more.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yLXU5RzRyWjZXTDA
>
> Josh
>
> On Aug 3, 2016 4:28 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Josh,
>>  Any pictures?
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C&C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 3, 2016 at 1:02 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Pretty sure you meant hard dodger.  I have thought about getting a hard
>>> bimini too.  The engineering and planning is the hold up.
>>>
>>> Josh
>>>
>>> On Aug 3, 2016 8:48 AM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 I see Josh has a hard bimini.  Josh and others, did you do it
 yourself?  Was it difficult/costly/worthwhile?

 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

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>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
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Re: Stus-List mast collar straps

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Make sure all your halyards, vang, cunningham, etc are slackened if they
are led back to the cockpit. Kind of obvious, but it definitely makes a
difference. I know from experience.

On Tue, Aug 2, 2016 at 10:09 AM jhnelson via CnC-List 
wrote:

> If you have any rig tension on that would do it.
>
> Other options, assuming you haven't had any mast step work done is to
> raise the mast up a bit, put the bolts in and drop it back down. Or shim
> the mast up to the right height.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung device
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List 
> Date: 2016-08-02 1:30 PM (GMT-04:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tom Alessi 
> Subject: Stus-List mast collar straps
>
> Hi,
> This is my first season sailing  after a season on the hard doing repairs.
> When the yard re-stepped the mast the holes on the metal straps that bolt
> through the mast no longer align. The holes on the mast are lower by 3/8".
> As part of the rehab I had removed the mast collar. so I initially thought
> that I used too much caulking in the installation. I removed the collar and
> scrapped away all the caulking but the holes are still off. I wasn't there
> when the yard had originally took out the mast so I'm not sure if there was
> anything under the mast causing it to be slightly higher. I'm relunctant to
> drill a new set of holes.
>   Any advice would be appreciated.
> Thx
>
> Tom Alessi
> S/V ANDIAMO
> C&C 36, 1980
> Rockaway Bch, NY
> 646-283-1580
> tagraph...@optonline.net
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Re: Stus-List Cockpit Shower on 30 mkII

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Also Allen, could you explain / show where and how you tapped into your Hot
and Cold lines? Thanks!

On Thu, Jul 28, 2016 at 2:04 PM Kevin Driscoll 
wrote:

> Do you happen to have a photo Allen? That sounds pretty ideal! (we hate
> struggling with our shore power hookup under the helm seat)
>
> On Thu, Jul 28, 2016 at 1:41 PM Allen Miles via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I mounted a hot/cold shower on the outside of the starboard locker in
>> place of the ac receptacle which I moved to the starboard coaming where
>> it's easier to plug in the shore power cord.  It's out of the way under the
>> helm seat, but when you come back from a swim and climb the stern ladder
>> it's right at hand for a rinse off and the water just flows right out the
>> transom.
>>
>> Allen Miles
>> S/v Septima  30-2
>> Hampton, VA
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 28, 2016 at 3:41 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> 30 mkII owners...do you have a cockpit shower? I would like to put one
>>> in the aft cockpit locker on the stbd side (next to the helm seat). I am
>>> planning something on the cheaper side (white plastic RV type?), that I
>>> would mount inside the locker (I.e. not cut a hole in the fiberglass) and
>>> just open the locker to remove the sprayer when used.
>>>
>>> We have a 1+ year old with lots of sand play in our future. I am hoping
>>> to keep it out of the cabin!
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
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>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
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>>
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>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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