Stus-List Re: New C&C Items

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Yes, I want one!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending summers on the Chesapeake Bay and winters in warm places)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jan 10, 2022, at 1:09 PM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> Coming soon – C&C galley/kitchen cutting board.
>  
> Approximate size – 14”H x 10”W x 1”  bamboo board.  Laser engraved so the 
> design is actually burned into the wood.
>  
> Your boat name can be added but no choice of font.  I cannot duplicate the 
> font on your boat.
>  
> Boards will be treated with cutting board oil.
>  
> Prices:
> a) C&C Logo only – $22.00 US
> b) C&C Logo and boat name $25.00  US
>  
> Shipping to
> Canada -- $14 US
> Continental USA – $17 US
>  
> Payment will be by check, money order or PayPal (preferred).
>  
> If there is enough interest, I will start taking orders.
>  
> Stay safe ‘n’ healthy
> Stu
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Temperature gauge on Yanmar

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I added a coolant temperature sensor and gauge in the coolant line that leads 
to the water heater—it works great!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending summers on the Chesapeake Bay and winters in warm places)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Oct 27, 2021, at 12:37 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Has anyone installed a dedicated temperature gauge on a yanmar engine similar 
> to 3GM30F?  Can it be as simple as attaching to the sender unit that goes to 
> the idiot light on the control panel?
>  
> When a panel alarm goes off I usually shut down the engine immediately and 
> forget to check which lamp was lit.  Would be nice to have a temp gauge for 
> reference.  I do have an oil pressure gauge and would love to have both
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Mike Persistence
> Haliofax
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Painting cabin headliner

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I’ve painted mine using simple latex paints (color matched at Home Depot) and 
it worked great and held up perfectly for years.  I did not remove the vinyl 
but I had to Reggie it at some edges.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently on the Chesapeake Bay for the summer)

> On Aug 25, 2021, at 11:23 AM, cenelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  I had my main cabin head/ceiling brush painted with 1 part Brightsides 
> (Pettit?) White and it looks better than new—especially the plastic hole 
> covers which now finally match the ceiling. Amazing how much nicer/finished 
> this looks compared to the original. 
> 
> Of course about 25 years have gone by since the boat was new—that might have 
> something to do with it! :>)
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
> 
> 
> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
> 
> On Wednesday, August 25, 2021, 10:28 AM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> On my 1981 C n C 36 the cabin interior headliner is a vinyl glued to a thin 
> sheet of Luan plywood.  I have removed all and am going to seal coat the 
> plywood with epoxy.  Wondering if anyone painted theirs and how it turned out 
> and lasted.  I see some spray paint for plastics and wonder if that might 
> work.
>I could remove the vinyl and start over but that seems like a lot of 
> work...
> Bill Walker
> Evening Star
> PENTWATER, Mi.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

A windlass is one of the best purchases I made for cruising—it saved my back!  
How can you put a price on that?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending summers on the Chesapeake Bay and winters in warm places)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Aug 23, 2021, at 7:01 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have it now – the thing is a beast. Time to see if I need to do anything to 
> the anchor roller to make it fit.
> This may push me to look for a windlass at some point.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: PSS Stuffing Box

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Fred:

I’ve never heard or imagined anything so strange.  First, the shaft seal is a 
good foot or more below the waterline.  Pieces of wood generally float—so they 
would normally be near the surface of the water.  And then have a piece of wood 
lodge between the stainless and graphite seal on top of all that!  I would 
think the odds of that happening by natural occurrence would be astronomical.

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jul 13, 2021, at 11:45 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Years ago a small piece of wood came up thru the shaft log into the bellows 
> and wedged itself between the stainless and graphite rings. The boat sank 
> overnight. 
> The moral of this story is that you should periodically check the pressure of 
> the bellows. 
> My stainless ring had slipped. 
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury 
> C&C 44
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Jul 13, 2021, at 6:41 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> Jeff,
>>  
>> As you mentioned earlier, this topic shows up every so often.
>>  
>> As a PSS user, I am obviously biased.
>>  
>> The stuck graphite face was an issue in older designs (the unvented type). 
>> The Volvo version of the dripless seal still requires burping.
>>  
>> I can imagine that if I were to sail around the world, I might prefer the 
>> traditional stuffing box (the maintenance is easier and the spare parts can 
>> be fabricated by a skilled blacksmith (😉)), but if you sail in the area 
>> where spare parts are generally available, the dripless solution is 
>> completely reliable.
>>  
>> I am happy with my dry bilge.
>>  
>> Marek
>>  
>>  
>> 1994 C270 Legato
>> Ottawa, ON
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List  
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 9:25 AM
>> To: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
>> Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box
>>  
>> Let's exclude power boats -- an entirely different environment and demand on 
>> the hardware.
>> Jeff L.
>>  
>>  
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

A failure of the hose (or it’s clamps) that connects the stuffing box to the 
boat would suck too!

I think there are a lot more things on a boat to worry about…

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jul 13, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Stephen Thorne via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because I’ll sleep better at night.  The PSS is a nice system .. used it for 
> years.  However .. a system failure would suck.  
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Jul 12, 2021 at 9:27 PM Doug Mountjoy  
>> wrote:
>> Why would you want to? 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>> 
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> Port Orchard YC
>> Port Orchard,  WA
>> sv Rebecca Leah
>> 1988 C&C LF39 
>> 
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: Stephen Thorne via CnC-List 
>> Date: 7/12/21 5:43 PM (GMT-08:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Stephen Thorne 
>> Subject: Stus-List Stuffing Box
>> 
>> Folks my 1990 34+ has the PSS shaft seal system.  I want to swap it out for 
>> a traditional stuffing box and am looking for advise on which stuffing box 
>> manufacturers to look into.  My prop shaft is 1 &1/8” which may be a 
>> challenge finding a suitable match but hopefully not a big deal.
>> 
>> Thank you
>> 
>> Stephen Thorne
>> 34+ Deja Vu’
>> 770.722.2848
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I’ve had a PSS shaft seal for our long time on our LF38 with no problems except 
when a shaft key broke and allowed the shaft to slip.  However, the same thing 
could have happened with packing.  I would never consider going back to packing.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jul 13, 2021, at 7:26 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> +1 on that; though I have mine for only 9 years.
>  
> Marek
>  
> 1994 #122 ”Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>  
>  
>  
> From: ssjohnson via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, July 12, 2021 11:10 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: ssjohnson 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box
>  
> I've had a PSS shafted, and a DRY bilge for 10 years...think it is great.
> Spencer Johnson 
> 84 LF38
> Racine, WI
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Josh:

I think Piedmont Plastics in Rockville might have it in stock.

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 13, 2021, at 11:54 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I'm about to buy the plexi for the windows on my boat.  Looks like I'm going 
> to have to order it from California and the shipping is going to be 
> ridiculously expensive.  $150 for the glass and $130 for the shipping.  I'm 
> pretty sure that a larger sheet and or multiple sheets will be proportionally 
> less and less expensive.  If someone would like me to coordinate buying a 
> larger sheet to share, or more than 1 sheets, I'd be happy to do so.  You'd 
> have to arrange pickup or delivery from my house.  I need to get this ordered 
> quickly so speak up if you're interested.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: clogged head hoses

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I’m sure the fish wouldn’t like the muriatic acid...

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On May 3, 2021, at 11:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello all, 
> 
> So let me ask a question on this issue.  I found that vinegar is just not 
> strong enough to fix the calcium buildup in the head.  I tried a mixture of 
> 10% muriatic acid cut through it quickly, and the last year or two I have 
> taken to flushing some through the headand directly overboard.   It freed up 
> some stickiness in our Jabsco head pump, and after 3 or so years the Jabsco 
> replacement pump continues to work like new.
> 
> Is there a downside to using muriatic acid for this purpose as long as I 
> don't leave it in the system for long?
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: clogged head hoses

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I converted to an AirHead composting toilet.

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On May 3, 2021, at 12:33 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Good Morning All,
> 
> I am in the process of replacing my Stainless steel holding tank, due to 
> holes that are a result of corrosion. This is requiring me to make one out of 
> fiberglass. No one makes a tank this size and shape needed. This led me to 
> checking the hoses for condition. I found that the hoses from the toilet to 
> tank are severely clogged. Not sure how any fluid was getting through. 
> Currently with the aft cabin torn apart my boat is unusable for anything, 
> including living aboard, which I am. 
> 
> My question is this. What does everyone use to help keep the lines clear? Do 
> you pull them out every few years and clean them? Is there a chemical that I 
> can flush down that will help keep them clean?
> 
> Thanks,
> Doug
> 
> 
> -- 
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC, WA
> Rebecca Leah
> C&C LandFall 39
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: From richard - now Airhead

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I will chime in here with a glowing recommendation for the Airhead composting 
toilet.  I’ve had mine for more than five years now.  I used the space that was 
used for the old holding tank for an extra diesel fuel tank.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Apr 6, 2021, at 7:29 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> How do you like the Air Head?
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
>  
>  
> From: Chris Riedinger via CnC-List  
> Sent: Monday, April 5, 2021 10:51 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: richard hosker ; Chris Riedinger 
> 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: From richard
>  
> Good fricken luck
>  
> That tank is accessible by removing the head sink and surround trim. 
>  
> Our dip tube broke off inside the tank, so I reached my arm into our (very 
> full) tank, reconnected the dip tube, then pumped out the tank, promptly 
> bought an airhead composting toilet, removed all of the old marine head 
> plumbing etc and cut out the tank in pieces (since removing it in one piece 
> is quite labor intensive), and installed the airhead. 
>  
> We live aboard and I think the airhead was one of our better improvements. 
>  
> I used the extra space under the sink to add a diesel heater and ran the 
> vents into the head and our aft cabin. It dries out our gear exceptionally 
> well and warms our toes on cold nights when the electric radiator in the 
> salon isn't enough.. I digress 😁
>  
>  
> uted to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your 
> support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 40 rigging

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

In my opinion, this is just a money making scheme.  Has anyone ever heard of a 
rig failure of rod rigging?  My boatyard hasn’t and they were C&C dealers a 
long time ago.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Mar 25, 2021, at 3:36 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had mine inspected and some reheaded about five years ago on my 1981 40. 
> We had to replace the D3/V2 because when it was reheaded the fitting where it 
> went around the spreader would have been in a different place. I think we 
> replaced some turnbuckles, too. Just did something similar with my 1995 
> Baltic two years ago. I am pretty sure you will not have to replace all the 
> rod. The area to really look at is the spreader tips and the fittings there.
> 
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Mar 25, 2021, at 14:59, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Ran into a snag:
>> The rigging shop I called told me rod rigging from 1981 was NOT going to 
>> pass their survey just from age and some the fittings used back then could 
>> not be inspected, taking them apart is a one-way trip. Does anyone have an 
>> idea on the longevity of rod and the cost to replace it all?
>> It doesn’t have to be rod again, does it? Dynaform wire or Dyneema maybe?
>>  
>>  
>> Joe Della Barba
>> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>  
>>  
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Now bridge clearance

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

As a regular cruising going up and down the ICW not all bridges have 65 foot 
clearance—some as low as 62 or 63 feet.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Mar 23, 2021, at 8:16 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Have you ever gone into Cape May? I have hit the bridge with my VHF antenna 
> going through the canal. No harm done, but that would have been a bad time 
> for a big wake! Quite a sight to see the antenna going ting-ting-ting across 
> the girders up there.
> There is a bridge in Florida on the Okeechobee canal that is a bit low and I 
> think the marina near there will come out and hook a big weight to your 
> halyard to heel the boat over to get under it.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: G Donald Wagner via CnC-List  
> Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 5:28 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: G Donald Wagner 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: C&C 40
>  
> My C&C 41 CB with a tall rig draws 4'11" with the board up,7' 10" with the 
> board down, according to the data brochure.
> I've tested it here on the Bay many times and believe the Brochure.
>  
> On the other end, the quoted Bridge clearance is 60'4"' per the brochure. 
> I've never tested it , but believe it is correct, not allowing for the Windex 
> or the Wind direction/Wind speed Instrument. 
> The instrumentation  may add another 12 -14'". So, if you believe the corps 
> of Engineers the 65" along most of the ICW will be ok!  Of course, near Miami 
> and on the Okeechobee Waterway where, it's often stated to be 55" , will be a 
> problem!
>  
> Just my .02 cents worth
>  
> Don Wagner
> C&C41CB
> Der Baron 
> on the West River of the Chesapeake Bay
> d to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your 
> support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 40

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Tall rigs will give you fits if you ever travel down the ICW.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Mar 22, 2021, at 10:30 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I am pretty sure the centerboard versions are not the tall mast boats. Draft 
> issues aside, the tall mast would be nice around here, lack of wind is a much 
> more common issue than too much. I once watched a C&C 44 trounce a fleet of 
> smaller C&Cs in light air, what breeze there was existed above everyone 
> else’s sails but the 44.
> Anyway – back to the video – that looks like absolute sailing heaven. We 
> almost never seem to be that lucky. Notice it was relatively dry and no 
> banging. We seem to get more often than not is confused seas, say two 
> different sets in the 10-15-20 foot range that will occasionally combine and 
> drop a mountain of water on the boat. Even two sets of 10 footers will make 
> the occasional 20 footer. Then there was the “toilet bowl”, one time at the 
> edge of the Gulf Stream we got drenched by waves from port, starboard, and 
> then aft in short succession. The 35 MK I does well with coming back up at 
> least, a big breaking wave can lay you over and she just pops right back up – 
> no worries 😊
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: dwight veinot via CnC-List  
> Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 10:09 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: dwight veinot 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: C&C 40
>  
> From the Dellenbaugh Angle calculation the C&C 40 tall mast is quite tender. 
> The 30  MK1 is very stiff and the 35 MKI is in the sweet spot. This diagram 
> predicts well what I have observed with the C&C designs i have sailed. 
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 40

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I wouldn’t worry too much about a diesel with 3000+ hours on it—it’s not like a 
gasoline-powered engine.  That said, I lost my original engine with about 5000 
hours on it.  I lost the oil somehow along th ICW—it wasn’t due to the engine 
simply wearing out.  If you are using the boat just on the Chesapeake, it will 
take you a long time to get a lot of hours on the engine.

The C&C 40 is a nice boat!

Bob

> On Mar 18, 2021, at 10:59 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Would buying a C&C 40 with an original engine be a good idea in 2021? 
> We are running some numbers here and it is basically a choice between 
> upgrading and replacing. Coquina is 48 years old now and it is time to do 
> some $$$ upgrades or buy another boat with much of the work done. We found a 
> used C&C 40 that looks gorgeous below, the interior beats most used boats of 
> that era. She seems in good shape, but the engine is original with 3,000+ 
> hours. An Atomic 4 per the manual should be rebuilt at 3,000 hours if FWC, a 
> raw water cooled version would be very lucky to get that far in salt water. 
> The Yanmar is FWC. I frequently hear that diesels can last 10,000 hours, but 
> then again a significant number of boats from that era are for sale with new 
> engines.
> Also re the rod rigging – the mast is out for the winter. With the rigging 
> easily accessed, what would the cost be of a rigging inspection to assure 
> that the rod is still good.
> Thanks!
>  
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230
(Spending hurricane season in Baltimore, winters in the Bahamas, and on the ICW 
in between)
411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Interior Teak Door Giveaway!

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Lewis:

Hardware was shipped in a small box and should arrive today (shipping and 
packaging is on me for that one.

The door was shipped yesterday (UPS) and will arrive on Monday.  Cost for 
shipping the door was as follows:
Packaging = $30.00
Shipping = $71.18
Total = $101.18 (copy sent via separate email)

You can pay by check or PayPal—let me know which you prefer and I will send you 
more info.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Mar 8, 2021, at 6:02 PM, Lewis Cooke via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
>  My address is
> Lewis E Cooke
> 18024 West River Rd
> Columbia Station, OH 44028
>  Regards
> Lewis
> 
>> On Mar 8, 2021 2:08 PM, "Robert Boyer via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Lewis:
>> 
>> Can you give me your complete mailing address?  I will get it shipped out 
>> this week and advise you of costs...
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
>> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> Annapolis, MD 
>> (Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)
>> 
>>>> On Mar 8, 2021, at 12:24 PM, Lewis Cooke via CnC-List 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> Hello Bob,
>>>  We made it home safe and sound. Let me know when you have the totals for 
>>> the shipping of the door and hardware and I will pay.
>>>  Regards
>>>  Lewis
>>> 
>>>> On Jan 27, 2021 12:05 PM, "Robert Boyer via CnC-List" 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> I have an interior teak door from my C&C Landfall 38 (with attached 
>>>> hardware) that I would like to give away to a needy party for a simple 
>>>> donation to Stu’s List plus shipping costs.  
>>>> 
>>>> I had to remove the door and door frame in order to changeout the stove 
>>>> and decided not to reinstall the door.  Please contact me off list at 
>>>> dainyr...@icloud.com.
>>>> 
>>>> Bob
>>>> 
>>>> Bob Boyer
>>>> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
>>>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>>>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>>>> 
>>>> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
>>>> messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>>>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>>>> Stu
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>>> Stu
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Interior Teak Door Giveaway!

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Lewis:

Can you give me your complete mailing address?  I will get it shipped out this 
week and advise you of costs...

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Mar 8, 2021, at 12:24 PM, Lewis Cooke via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello Bob,
>  We made it home safe and sound. Let me know when you have the totals for the 
> shipping of the door and hardware and I will pay.
>  Regards
>  Lewis
> 
>> On Jan 27, 2021 12:05 PM, "Robert Boyer via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> I have an interior teak door from my C&C Landfall 38 (with attached 
>> hardware) that I would like to give away to a needy party for a simple 
>> donation to Stu’s List plus shipping costs.  
>> 
>> I had to remove the door and door frame in order to changeout the stove and 
>> decided not to reinstall the door.  Please contact me off list at 
>> dainyr...@icloud.com.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> 
>> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
>> messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge monitor

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

All this depends on a reliable WIFI connection, right?  Do you think your bilge 
pump switch, for example, is more or less reliable than your onboard WIFI 
connection?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Mar 2, 2021, at 1:43 PM, Riley Anderson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Len, I'm installing a Victron Cerbo GX. It can do everything you're asking 
> and will transmit data remotely to the Victron VRM app/website. It needs an 
> internet connection. Either wifi or hardwired. Victron also sells a GSM 
> device with a SIM card (~$12/month) if you don't want to rely on marina wifi.
> 
> Here is the Victron Cerbo GX: https://amzn.to/2OfIPxc and technical data.
> It can do a lot. Just depends on how fancy you want to get. You can email me 
> if you have more questions.  
> 
> You can also build your own with a raspberry pi and the open-source Venus OS 
> from Victron. It's the same software they use on the Cerbo but you'll have to 
> be pretty software savvy to make it do everything you want. Here is a link to 
> the Venus OS GitHub page: https://github.com/victronenergy/venus/wiki
> 
> Hope this helps,
> Cheers
> Riley
> 
>> On Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 11:31 AM Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> With all this talk about bilge pumps I am looking at a way to monitor the 
>> boat when I am not there. Has anyone bought or built a monitor? It looks 
>> possible with a Raspberry Pi computer. I would like to monitor battery bank 
>> voltage, bilge pump cycles or bilge water level and refrigerator 
>> temperature. You could go farther and monitor tank levels or install a cctv 
>> camera too. I am interested in any experience on this. I am not opposed to 
>> using an old laptop, iPad or tablet if that is more robust. 
>> 
>> https://medium.com/initial-state/how-to-monitor-your-boat-during-the-winter-months-d89f7d76a88d
>> 
>> Len Mitchell
>> S/V Crazy Legs
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Midland On. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> 
> 
> -- 
> Fair winds and following seas,
> 
> Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
> SV Freight Train
> Middletown, CT USA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fresh Water Pump

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Some time ago, I relocated my Shurflo pump to an area of the boat where I 
couldn’t hear it run—That turned out to be a problem too until I installed a 
blue pilot light in the galley.  When the pump runs so doe the pilot light.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Feb 6, 2021, at 12:33 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I, too, thought the Marco pump would be good for my system if my Shurflo quit 
> working. Thanks for the warning. My Shurflo is quite loud. I’d like to find a 
> quieter pump that has a smallish footprint. Let us know how you make out. 
> 
> Al Liles
> SV Elendil, C&C 37/40+
> Vancouver, BC
> 
> 
>> On Feb 4, 2021, at 12:54 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> About a year ago I was looking for experience here on a Marco UP3 freshwater 
>> pump, and there was no response.
>>  
>> To report on the Marco, I loved the pump, I just didn’t like that it quit 
>> pulling water by September. A little over 3 months.  They did eventually 
>> take it back, after several push-ups.
>> I was hesitant  about Italian Engineering, but it was a beautiful little 
>> Gear Pump, mostly SS,– ran quietly, smoothly, nice little LED’s to let you 
>> know what was going on, , small footprint, would shut off if it sensed no 
>> water,  - As near as I could figure, the gears simply wore a little, enough 
>> to not create the suction to pull water up a meter.
>>  
>> I am not real excited with the Flojet or Jabsco pumps I have used, and the 
>> ShurFlos just seem so – so.
>> Has anyone had any experience with the Johnson (5.0GPM Flow MasterPart #: 
>> 10-13329-104) ? This is a variable speed/Volume, like the Marco, but not 
>> gear driven. It is not all that expensive, which for some reason makes me 
>> suspicious.
>>  
>>  
>> Bill Coleman
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

It seems to me that the teak battens were initially glued to a fabric backing 
with about 1/32” spacing between the battens to allow for the assembly to adapt 
to the curves of the boat (and probably humidity).  

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:17 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Great idea on the plugs--I have found them but thought I'd probably have to 
> drill them out entirely. That will certainly be my first try before I destroy 
> anything further.
> 
> Unfortunately, the aft 6-18 inches of both the ceiling panel under the cubby 
> and the panel 'inside' the cubby extending into a closed cabinet were totally 
> destroyed by the water leak over the years I neglected it!
> 
> Thus Charles' suggestion will not work in my case since there are no 
> 'remains' of the panel to save.
> 
> Regarding the bung removal, hopefully this will allow me to remove the 
> partially destroyed panel. I haven't found a 'seam' yet so the panel may 
> extend forward and be a single long panel--Murphy lurks!
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions,
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
> To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> Cc: Graham Collins 
> Sent: Mon, Feb 1, 2021 9:21 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
> 
> Hey Charlie, if it is like the panels on my boat you should be able to get 
> the plugs out reasonably easily, I drilled a small hole in the center and 
> screwed a wood screw in, it popped the plugs out and I could remove the 
> screws and thus the panel.  I'd go with that before resorting to a power 
> tool...
> You could replicate it with thin battens but you'd want some sort of tongue 
> on them so there weren't visible gaps where the gelcoat above shows through.  
> And don't press the battens tight together in case they expand with 
> humidity...
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2021-02-01 9:31 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
>> Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem. 
>> 
>> I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C&C sourced this 
>> material to a local shop who has since gone out of business.
>> 
>> My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the 
>> listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 'think' the 
>> current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it.
>> 
>> First, of course, I have to remove some of the good remaining ceiling to 
>> determine how thick it is and, more importantly, what it is. It might be 
>> teak, or teak faced plywood or just plywood stained to mimic teak. As with 
>> most boat projects, they start with at least 1, usually 2 or more steps 
>> backward before any forward progress is made--at least that is how it 
>> usually works for me!
>> 
>> Now it would only warm up in coastal NC (highs lately barely get out of the 
>> high 40s), I can begin the backward steps by probably investing in an 
>> oscillating tool so I can remove some of the ceiling without destroying it 
>> (1st step backward!). I may try a Dremel tool first--I have one of those 
>> somewhere.
>> 
>> Then I can either make a similar piece myself (of course I would likely need 
>> a router then!) or take the wood to a local shop and have it routed (2nd 
>> step backward).
>> 
>> Thanks again for the listers who helped with the terminology. I will let the 
>> list know what the solution turns out to be.
>> 
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Interior Teak Door Giveaway!

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I have an interior teak door from my C&C Landfall 38 (with attached hardware) 
that I would like to give away to a needy party for a simple donation to Stu’s 
List plus shipping costs.  

I had to remove the door and door frame in order to changeout the stove and 
decided not to reinstall the door.  Please contact me off list at 
dainyr...@icloud.com .

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Companionway hatch slide replacement LF38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I have removed and resealed the hatch cover on my LF38–it is a big job.  If you 
want pics let me know...

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers on the Chesapeake Bay, and somewhere 
on the ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jan 15, 2021, at 12:32 PM, Patrick via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Has anyone pulled out the companionway main hatch on a Landfall 38?  It looks 
> like it's not as simple as one might expect - to remove it I'll need to 
> unbolt our traveler in order to unscrew the 40-odd screws holding down the 
> fiberglass companionway cover and clean/scrape the old butyl and sealant. 
> 
> 
> It's not possible to just slide out the hatch acrylic since the fiberglass 
> hatch cover blocks that (I could cut a slot in the fiberglass in 2 spots to 
> do it, but don't want to do that). I have a photo I’ll try to attach below.
> 
> 
> The reason we need to pull the hatch is that there seems to be something 
> jammed in the track slide - sometimes when we try to slide open the hatch it 
> jams on a screw or something loose in the track, which I can't see or 
> recover. 
> 
> The fiberglass cover is also due for resealing anyway, as it leaks in some 
> spots. 
> 
> This looks like a big job, just wondering if anyone else has done it and has 
> tips or a blog post. 
> 
> -Patrick
> 
> 1984 C&C LF38
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails?????

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I have new Quantum sails made in their Sri Lanka factory and workmanship is 
excellent—I highly recommend them!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Dec 15, 2020, at 4:26 PM, Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Question to the group. 
> 
> I am getting a new set of cruising sails for our 40.   My choice is going to 
> be between Doyle or Quantum. I have had Doyle sail before and their service 
> and quality were great. Made in St.Pete Fl. right up the road. 100 miles. 
> Quantum sails with almost identical specs comes in about 400 bucks lower but 
> are made in Sri  Lanka. Service is relatively close on on the east coast of 
> Fl. Given between the two, what might you buy. 
> Has anybody had experience with the SriLanka sails. It's my understanding 
> that several lofts and a lot of sails come from there. 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ted
> S/V Ten-Ten
> Punta Gorda, Fl. 
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rub rail repair test

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

A long time ago, I purchased a 6-foot long piece of replacement vinyl rubrail 
(I think from Southshore) and replaced a 2 foot long section near the bow of my 
boat.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Nov 17, 2020, at 3:28 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> Touché’s rub rail got gouged during Hurricane Sally.  Asking my insurance to 
> repair it might have opened the for to totaling the boat. :(
> 
> I’m trying a Hail Mary fix.
> I put some white Flex Paste in/on the gouges. ($14 at Lowe’s.)  After a few 
> days cure time, I’m wet sanding with progressively finer grit.  
> 
> Results are cosmetically acceptable but somewhat deficient from a strength 
> standpoint.  I can fairly easily make indentations with my fingernail.  
> That’s understandable since it’s meant to be a seal, not a structural 
> component. 
> 
> I guess if it passes the 10 foot test and I never hit anything, it will 
> suffice. :)
> 
> Dennis C. 
> Touché 35-1#83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Propane Locker - C&C 30 MK1

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

In the case of an outboard-mounted propane tank for a high-guality rail-mounted 
gas grill (like Magma), the pressure regulator is part of the gas grill and is 
protected from the weather by the grill housing.  (There might be cheaper 
grills on the market where this is not the case.)

For aluminum tanks, there is nothing that will corrode seriously in the 
weather.  It seems like if you could protect an external regulator and solenoid 
from the weather, all the requirements could be met.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Sep 29, 2020, at 9:53 PM, Peter Fell  wrote:
> 
> 
>> I'm curious .. with the tank on the stern rail as pictured, how are the ABYC 
>> requirements fulfilled?
> 
> 1.  LPG cylinders, cylinder valves, regulating equipment, and safety devices 
> shall be readily accessible, secured for sea conditions, and protected from 
> the weather and against mechanical damage  i.e. your tank and (I assume 
> regulator, gauge and solenoid) are unprotected.
> 2.  installed in a ventilated location on the exterior of the boat where 
> escaping gases will flow directly overboard i.e. just as much chance to flow 
> into the cockpit.
> 3. A relief valve’s point of discharge shall be at least 20 inches (508mm) 
> distant from any opening to a cabin or the hull interior. i.e. your tank is 
> right next to the blower intake (or exhaust, I'm not sure which).
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I've wrestled with the same issues and it is near 
> impossible to meet all requirements in a retrofit. My propane system isn't 
> connected right now, until I have a better plan in place (and my composite 
> tank is expired anyway).
> ___
> 
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Stus-List Re: Cylinder glazing

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Remember that these are only general guidelines.  They don’t have to be 
followed precisely. Based on my 40+ years experience, I believe that what 
ultimately kills your engine is not how close you operated within the engine 
manufacturers guidelines but more serious things like loosing crankcase oil.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Sep 21, 2020, at 12:13 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> 
> Attached is the chart of rated continuous output.  I couldn't find it but 
> immediately but the 1 hour limit for my 3HM35F is 3400 and the instantaneous 
> limit is 3600.  When referring to 80% load I always assume the continuous 
> limit - 3200 for me.  So basically whenever I run the engine I try to 
> maintain the tach above 2500.  But RPM is only part of the equation.  Usually 
> it is good enough but with a clean prop and bottom the actual load might not 
> be 80% since the engine has to work less hard to move the boat the through 
> the water.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
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> 
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Stus-List Re: Bottom paint

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I’ve been using the Petit SR-60 for the past 5 season in the Bahamas and ICW.  
Of course, I add a new coat each season But it looked great every haulout.  I 
love this paint!

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Sep 21, 2020, at 2:29 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Do they know it works well in Oregon or do they just have a huge stock of it 
> to get rid of LOL
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
> www.dellabarba.com
>  
>  
>  
> From: Fred Hazzard [mailto:fshazz...@gmail.com] 
> Sent: Monday, September 21, 2020 2:10 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Bottom paint
>  
> I am getting ready to have the bottom repainted. The yard is recommending 
> Petit Ultima SR 60. 
> Do any of you have experience or strong opinions about this paint. 
>  
> Our boat is in fresh water 99 % of the time. 
> Other paint recommendations would be appreciated. 
>  
> Fred Hazzard 
> S/V Fury 
> C&C 44
> Portland Or 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Lithium Ion batteries

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Firefly Oasis carbon foam AGMs are a good compromise-they can be drawn down to 
30% capacity without harm.  There are many other advantages over more common 
AGMs.  I have four of them in a single bank—I’ve had them for 5 years now.  I 
would never go back to another type of battery!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Sep 4, 2020, at 10:41 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I've been following a few RV channels on YouTube and learning about lithium 
> batteries?   Some people are living "off-the-grid, living large with solar 
> panels and inverters.  Just learned that lithium batteries are 40 pounds less 
> weight per battery and last three to five times as many years, (3000 to 5000 
> cycles vs 1000 cycles for AGMs).  AGMs and Lead Acid shouldn't be drained 
> below 50% so you really need four 100ah AGM batteries to have 200ah 
> available.  Lithium can be drained down to nothing without harm, so two give 
> you 200ah.  If I was keeping my boat, or doing any long cruises, I'd 
> definitely look into those.  I got eleven years from my first AGM batteries 
> so Lithium should last me thirty years.  One Lithium battery presently costs 
> $950 for Battleborn vs $300 for a quality AGM and two lithium batteries 
> ($1900 and 58# total weight) equal the amp hours of four AGMs ($1200 and 276# 
> total weight).  Lithium is actually $500 cheaper if you keep the boat long 
> enough to have to replace the AGMs twice (cost $2400) and they are 218# 
> lighter.  That's a hell of a weight savings for racers. 
> 
> Prices keep falling for this new technology, so it's simply a matter of time. 
>  I think one Lithium might replace my two AGMs at some point in the near 
> future.
> 
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R
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> 
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I (meaning my boat yard) have replaced motor mounts a couple times in my ‘83 
LF38.  Sounds like you are overdue.  The back ones are the toughest.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Aug 28, 2020, at 9:51 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Some people have had success putting something strong and inflatable under 
> the engine to raise it, something like this: 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PL1ST_gZbt4
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>> On Fri, 28 Aug 2020 at 10:32, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> David, 
>> I believe my vibration is also due to original Motor Mounts as well on my 
>> 1983 - 37. Any other tips on the replacing? I asked a mechanic and he said 
>> they needed a special tool to raise the engine? Also No idea how I am 
>> getting to back ones with out removing fuel tank Which is nice new plastic 
>> type but placed in starboard lazzarette  making  all entry to aft section 
>> rudder and motor Difficult 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> John Conklin 
>> S/V Halcyon
>> S/V Heartbeat
>> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>> 
>> 
>>> On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:45 PM, David Risch via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Chuck...replaced my motor mounts my self.   Not that hard.   Unless that V 
>>> drive makes it that hard.  
>>> 
>>> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Chuck Gilchrest 
>>> via CnC-List 
>>> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 12:40:45 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>>> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed
>>>  
>>> Peter,
>>> 
>>> My 1983 LF 35 came with a Yanmar 3HM with a 3 blade fixed prop.  It’s 
>>> happiest around 2200 RPM at roughly 6 knots.  Anything more than that it 
>>> sounds like the hull is shaking apart. Not a lot of sound deadening in 
>>> general with that diesel, but it gets pretty loud at higher RPMs. Since I 
>>> replaced the shaft, cutlass bearing, installed a dripless shaft seal when 
>>> purchased 4 years ago, vibration is likely motor mounts which are probably 
>>> original.
>>> 
>>> Someday…
>>> 
>>> Chuck Gilchrest
>>> 
>>> Half Magic
>>> 
>>> 1983 35 Landfall
>>> 
>>> Padanaram, MA
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Peter 
>>> Cowenhoven via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 10:18 AM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I've got a Westerbeke 33 with a 2 blade folding prop.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I would say I do 7 knots at about 2700 -2800 rpm pretty consistently.
>>> 
>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 12:53 PM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List
>>> 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi
>>> 
>>> What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed? 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Thanks
>>> 
>>> Rob
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
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>>> 
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>> 
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Re: Stus-List Transmission problem??

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Some symptoms that I experienced before my recent transmission repair were:
(1) a significant delay in shifting into forward (5 to 10 minutes), and
(2) transmission fluid leakage from the shaft seals.

I’m sure there are other symptoms that I did not experience myself.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:28 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We returned from our brief cruise yesterday and had no problems motoring.  I 
> just finished a discussion with PYI to see whether the Maxprop could be the 
> cause of the vibration and they said the symptoms are consistent with the 
> Maxprop needing to be reconditioned.  They said that if there is too much 
> wiggle in the blades, when subjected to loading and unloading in waves, the 
> blades can catch in slightly different places and that leads to vibration.  
> Going to reverse and then back to forward would reset the blade position.  He 
> said I can test by seeing how much wiggle there is in the blades when locked 
> in forward. It should be less than 1/8”.  More than 3/16” is a problem.  I 
> may try to dive under to see, but likely will wait until haul in Fall.  So I 
> think that is the likely cause of our vibration issue.
>  I am still unsure what the symptoms of a transmission needing rebuilding 
> would be.  If anyone can speak to symptoms of that problem, I would 
> appreciate it as I suspect they are different.
> 
> I should also note that I have always had a problem with the engine stalling 
> when I shift into reverse.  I don’t know what is causing that (PYI did not 
> think it related to the prop) so if anyone has ideas I would love to hear 
> them.  It is always nerve racking coming into a dock and worrying that I will 
> not be able to slow down. 
> 
> As to shift lever- it looks to me like the shifter is designed to be able to 
> attach in either orientation.  I think that in order to match normal Edson 
> lever movement (down = forward) they had to put it on pointing down.  In 
> order for that to work, they had to grind out some of the stringer.  I 
> realize in retrospect that there is no way shifting could have worn that away 
> as you would not have been able to shift at all until it wore down some and 
> that would make no sense.  But both my wife and I think that up is more 
> natural for forward gear, so I am happy with the change. 
> 
> 
> Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Yes, but polyethylene is not good for fuel tanks.  Plastic fuel tanks are 
constructed from some other type of plastic and they are normally molded.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:02 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Bob, didn’t you used to make Plastic tanks?
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
> Boyer via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 2:59 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Robert Boyer
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements
>  
> I did the same thing about 5 years ago but upgraded to 1/4” thick.  The 
> upgrade in thickness was a minimal cost.
>  
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD 
> (Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)
> 
> 
> On Aug 17, 2020, at 2:04 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My tank had a label in the top for Florida Marine Tanks with a stamped model 
> # mine was FMT-32-CC.  They found the original drawings.  6-8 weeks to 
> have it made and shipped.  Full payment up front
> .  Mine was $586 + $200 to epoxy coat + shipping of about%100.  Upgraded from 
> 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch aluminum.  
> Not so much fun this year..
> Spencer Johnson 
> 84 LF38
> Waukegan IL
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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I did the same thing about 5 years ago but upgraded to 1/4” thick.  The upgrade 
in thickness was a minimal cost.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Aug 17, 2020, at 2:04 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My tank had a label in the top for Florida Marine Tanks with a stamped model 
> # mine was FMT-32-CC.  They found the original drawings.  6-8 weeks to 
> have it made and shipped.  Full payment up front
> .  Mine was $586 + $200 to epoxy coat + shipping of about%100.  Upgraded from 
> 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch aluminum.  
> Not so much fun this year..
> Spencer Johnson 
> 84 LF38
> Waukegan IL
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Head faucet/shower replacement...

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I think all faucets have 1/2-inch NPT connections, if this helps.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Aug 17, 2020, at 9:22 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Yes, they are practically identical to that model. My concern with their 
> replacement is that they fit the existing 'hole' in the head and galley. 
> 
> Per some research on the web, this type of faucet appears to have a single 
> hole for the water lines which 
> I want to maintain. Just getting the old ones out will be a large PITA given 
> their locations and the relative lack of access to their connections under 
> the sinks--so I don't want the additional hassle of drilling extra holes. 
> 
> Quite frankly I am not sure I can remove either current faucet without 
> removing their respective sinks. Especially the one in the head, where the 
> sink sits just above the holding tank--yikes! Even the galley faucet will be 
> difficult since not only is it behind the sink, the space under the sink is 
> so narrow I don't think I can squeeze myself in to it to even reach the 
> fittings, even with a basin wrench.
> 
> If I have to remove the sinks, I am not even sure how to begin that job--and 
> may just give up on it!
> 
> Hence my dilemma!
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

You will probably have to sand it down and refinish it with a good marine 
varnish.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:55 PM, General Gao via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below 
> shows what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner, teak 
> oil, did not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the right 
> track? The yellow color seems to be from something that "grow" from the wood.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Bo
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Re: Stus-List TV antenna options

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I mounted my TV antenna on the mast, on the top starboard side.  It works great 
and I think the height is a big advantage.  I was able to use it the entire 
length of the ICW.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jul 20, 2020, at 10:31 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello all;
> 
> I added a 19" TV to my boat anticipating some cruising in the future. It fits 
> nicely on the port side forward bulkhead above the settee facing aft. I even 
> found an ac outlet nearby for power.
> 
> I have been advised by locals who have TVs aboard to go with a omni 
> directional antenna, which makes sense to me, and to mount it outside the 
> cabin.
> 
> Most of these antennae are disc-shaped of various diameters, meant to be 
> mounted with the disk parallel to the water surface. 
> 
> The question is where to mount it, even if its removable when underway or 
> racing. The TV is closer to the bow than stern so the bow pulpit might 
> work--I don't see mounting it high or anywhere on the mast. OTOH, maybe the 
> stern pulpit would be OK. My thought is to keep it stowed while underway and 
> attach it to a permanent fitting somewhere outside the cabin when I am at a 
> marina.
> 
> Any ideas from listers on where to put the antenna?
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
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Re: Stus-List Propane tank connection

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

There should be no need to use Teflon tar nor other sealant on the connection 
to the propane tank.  You should note that the threads connecting to the tank 
are left handed—not at all like conventional threads.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Jul 16, 2020, at 12:52 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> That’s just wrong. There should be a flex hose between the tank and regulator 
> just like on your grill. It screws onto the outside of the tank fitting 
> 
> Joel 
> 
>> On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 12:40 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I want to make sure the hookup to my propane tank was done correctly.  It 
>> seems that the connection of the regulator to the tank loosened up over time 
>> and when the tank valve was cracked open, the propane leaked out.  That is 
>> my presumption given there was some pressure early in the season and then 
>> suddenly it was empty.  I also thought I smelled propane at times when I 
>> went to open/close the valve.  The connection joining the regulator to the 
>> tank seemed loose when I took it apart.  On my home grill, there is a big 
>> plastic knob you tighten to attach to the tank.  Here, it just seems to be 
>> threaded in with teflon tape.  I plan to refill the tank tomorrow, but if 
>> anyone has suggestions on any changes I should make to this setup, please 
>> let me know.  Is teflon tape the right thing to use or is there something 
>> like thread compound that would act like loctite?  Here is a picture of the 
>> current setup:
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/cHm4Ddo7wY1eFWug6
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 
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Stus-List 2020 C&C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVID-19?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Last year, I volunteered to host of the upcoming 2020 Mid-Atlantic C&C 
Rendezvous in Baltimore MD in late-September.  We recently returned from the 
relative safety of the Bahamas to a raging pandemic in the United States and it 
is far from being over, even though Maryland has done quite well in controlling 
the virus.  I am in my seventies and catching COVID-19 could mean much more to 
me than simply being sick for several weeks—it could be a death blow.

Consequently, I am withdrawing as a host for the upcoming rendezvous and I will 
not be attending one being held elsewhere.  I strongly encourage that this 
year's rendezvous be cancelled but that is up to everyone else on this list who 
lives in the Mid-Atlantic area.  In my opinion, a weekend get together (even 
with friendly C&C owners) is simply not worth the risk of catching COVID-19.

So, I am throwing out the question to other possible attendees, should this 
year’s rendezvous be cancelled?  And, if not, who is willing to host it and 
where?

Bob

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230
(Spending hurricane season in Baltimore, winters in the Bahamas, and on the ICW 
in between)
411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List Puspit Gate Options

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Josh:

Can you supply me your email address?

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Jul 13, 2020, at 1:12 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> You might be interested to try Amsteel in lew of wire.  Johnson makes very 
> nice pelican hooks just for this.  Alternatively you can use a regular 
> pelican hook.  I particularly like being able to wrap the line around the 
> ladder which supports the gate and holds the ladder while not marring or 
> damaging either.  You can also assemble DIY and replace for very cheap.  I 
> have pictures and additional guidance upon request.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 10, 2020, 14:35 Andrew Means via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi all - our C&C 34 has a bit of a hurry rigged pushpit gate to accommodate 
>> our swim ladder. The gate is constantly coming undone and is a liability.
>> 
>> Here are some photos:
>> Gate
>> Hinge
>> Latch?
>> 
>> The clumsily attached hinge and “latch” that isn’t really a latch make me 
>> think it was added with the stern ladder. I want to replace it with 
>> something like a wire gate, but I can't find the right fittings.
>> 
>> This photo for a reference of what I was thinking for the bar ends (which I 
>> would then attach a traditional wire gate to) but I wanted to get other 
>> folks’ opinions and see how they did it. How have other folks solved this 
>> issue?
>> 
>> Andrew
>> ___
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Seized SS Screw

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I have the same situation at the moment with a seized Phillips head screw at 
the base of a lifeline stanchion.  I’ve decided to remove the stanchion base 
from the boat so that I can apply more aggressive removal tactics.  I have a 
replacement stanchion—so I don’t care if I destroy the stanchion in the process.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jul 1, 2020, at 11:29 AM, Michael Brannon via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Left handed drill bits work well on this type of problem.  
> 
> Mike Brannon
> Virginia Lee 93295
> 1978 C&C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 1, 2020, at 9:21 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I want to remove a stanchion but the SS screw in the toe rail into the 
>> stanchion is seized .I have applied PB Blaster, 50% ATF - 50% 
>> Acetonetied putting a Philips head driver and hammering it to break the 
>> bond, no luck.
>> 
>> Scared to try torch heat because of the proximity to the hull and do not 
>> have an impact driver but may get one.
>> 
>> Anyone have any experience with this?
>> 
>> 
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - #277
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C&C Landfall 38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

You won’t see any Kubota tractor dealers in the Bahamas or the Caribbean...

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 1:59 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Jeeze Bob, Sorry, I didn’t mean to ruffle your feathers, I was just relaying 
> what this long time owner of a neighboring  C&C39 said.  He didn’t have the 
> same top end in big waves as he had before the repower.   And As David 
> mentioned, you can get parts for Beta’s anywhere they sell Kubota Tractors, 
> which is everywhere in the world..  My 37.5 HP  is the same engine as my 
> Mower, minus one Cylinder, so I could use the same Oil, filters, injectors, 
> etc .
>  
> Bill Coleman
>  
> From: Robert Boyer [mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com] 
> Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 1:06 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Coleman
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C&C Landfall 38
>  
> I have all the power I need with my new Yanmar 3YM30AE.  I’m not sure where 
> you are getting your information that you need more than 30 HP.
>  
> One big disadvantage of Beta is that there are not nearly as many parts 
> distributors—this is more important if you cruise to foreign ports.
>  
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD 
> (Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)
> 
> 
> On Jun 26, 2020, at 12:23 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I agree, get yourself a nice Beta 37 ½ HP diesel, and a 3 blade flex-a – 
> fold. I replaced a 4-108 with one of those Kubota’s, the mounting was about  
> 2 inches narrower, I just had to get some 3” aluminum (or maybe 4”) angle to 
> replace the old steel angle.  You will be amazed at how much lighter it is 
> from the Perkins.
> An old slip neighbor also had a 39, he replaced his atomic with a 30 HP 
> Yanmar, and was disappointed with the loss in power.  But it will still get 
> you from A to B.
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Niemi 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 7:55 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Gary Niemi
> Subject: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C&C Landfall 38
>  
> We are American expatriates who have sailed our 1981 C&C Landfall 38 to New 
> Zealand a decade ago. It has a Perkins 4-108, which is on its last legs. It's 
> not particularly reliable and is having trouble with overheating in the last 
> few years. Also, it's very heavy and it is way too much power anyway. We're 
> looking to replace it with a more reliable, modern power plant.
>  
> So we have a couple of questions:
>  
> What is the correct power? I understand most were sold with Yanmer 30hp 3HM 
> or 3QM diesels. We like the idea of saving a lot of weight with a smaller 
> engine than the Perkins, as well as ease of access, etc. However, we'd 
> consider a 35 or 38 also if 30 horsepower wasn't enough power.
>  
> At the same time we'll be replacing the fixed 2 blade prop with a 3 blade 
> feathering or folding prop, so will be looking for recommendations for that. 
> The current prop is totally wrong. I think it's 16x14. We never were able to 
> get up to the proper engine speed with the 4-108. Can you recommend 
> something? What have people tried?
>  
> Interested in hearing others' experiences.
>  
> Gary Niemi
> g...@niemi.co.nz
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C&C Landfall 38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I have all the power I need with my new Yanmar 3YM30AE.  I’m not sure where you 
are getting your information that you need more than 30 HP.

One big disadvantage of Beta is that there are not nearly as many parts 
distributors—this is more important if you cruise to foreign ports.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Jun 26, 2020, at 12:23 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I agree, get yourself a nice Beta 37 ½ HP diesel, and a 3 blade flex-a – 
> fold. I replaced a 4-108 with one of those Kubota’s, the mounting was about  
> 2 inches narrower, I just had to get some 3” aluminum (or maybe 4”) angle to 
> replace the old steel angle.  You will be amazed at how much lighter it is 
> from the Perkins.
> An old slip neighbor also had a 39, he replaced his atomic with a 30 HP 
> Yanmar, and was disappointed with the loss in power.  But it will still get 
> you from A to B.
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Niemi 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 7:55 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Gary Niemi
> Subject: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C&C Landfall 38
>  
> We are American expatriates who have sailed our 1981 C&C Landfall 38 to New 
> Zealand a decade ago. It has a Perkins 4-108, which is on its last legs. It's 
> not particularly reliable and is having trouble with overheating in the last 
> few years. Also, it's very heavy and it is way too much power anyway. We're 
> looking to replace it with a more reliable, modern power plant.
>  
> So we have a couple of questions:
>  
> What is the correct power? I understand most were sold with Yanmer 30hp 3HM 
> or 3QM diesels. We like the idea of saving a lot of weight with a smaller 
> engine than the Perkins, as well as ease of access, etc. However, we'd 
> consider a 35 or 38 also if 30 horsepower wasn't enough power.
>  
> At the same time we'll be replacing the fixed 2 blade prop with a 3 blade 
> feathering or folding prop, so will be looking for recommendations for that. 
> The current prop is totally wrong. I think it's 16x14. We never were able to 
> get up to the proper engine speed with the 4-108. Can you recommend 
> something? What have people tried?
>  
> Interested in hearing others' experiences.
>  
> Gary Niemi
> g...@niemi.co.nz
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C&C Landfall 38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

About 5 years ago I repowered with a Yanmar 3YM30AE which is a 30 HP engine and 
weighs much less and is quieter than than the previous 3HMF.  I changed to a 
3-blade fixed prop (16 x 13) and it is a good match.  I would make the same 
change all over again if I was faced with the same situation.  Good luck!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 7:56 PM, Gary Niemi via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> We are American expatriates who have sailed our 1981 C&C Landfall 38 to New 
> Zealand a decade ago. It has a Perkins 4-108, which is on its last legs. It's 
> not particularly reliable and is having trouble with overheating in the last 
> few years. Also, it's very heavy and it is way too much power anyway. We're 
> looking to replace it with a more reliable, modern power plant.
> 
> So we have a couple of questions:
> 
> What is the correct power? I understand most were sold with Yanmer 30hp 3HM 
> or 3QM diesels. We like the idea of saving a lot of weight with a smaller 
> engine than the Perkins, as well as ease of access, etc. However, we'd 
> consider a 35 or 38 also if 30 horsepower wasn't enough power.
> 
> At the same time we'll be replacing the fixed 2 blade prop with a 3 blade 
> feathering or folding prop, so will be looking for recommendations for that. 
> The current prop is totally wrong. I think it's 16x14. We never were able to 
> get up to the proper engine speed with the 4-108. Can you recommend 
> something? What have people tried?
> 
> Interested in hearing others' experiences.
> 
> Gary Niemi
> g...@niemi.co.nz
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List icebox drain

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

On my LF38, the ice box drain lines goes under the sink and I think it 
originally drained into the bilge.  I have mine hooked to a pump that pumps it 
overboard.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 22, 2020, at 3:42 PM, George Cone via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have an 1981 C & C 40. I have never been able to find the output of the 
> drain line on the icebox. Where does it come out from the floorboards where I 
> can find it- under the sink area? It seems to travel that way from the 
> icebox? Is there any valve on it?
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> George Cone
> Burlington, VT
> !981 C&C 40
> UNSINKABLE II
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List 37/40 wine storage

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I’ve built a wine cellar between the hull and settee cushions on my Landfall 
38.  It holds 9 bottles of red wine (port side) and nine bottles of white wine 
(starboard side).  I store each bottle upside down and covered in a wool sock 
to prevent rattling.  One of my best projects!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 19, 2020, at 12:28 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> People store wine on a boat?  On Touche' we worry more about where to store 
> the empty bottles!  :)
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List strange noise

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Maybe a failed motor mount?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 15, 2020, at 11:44 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> HI All,
> The other day while motoring at about 6.5kts we noticed an intermittent 
> thumping near the stern. It sounded like a crab float was bouncing off of the 
> hull. we slowed and the noise became quieter. Thinking there was actually 
> something thumping on the hull we came to a complete stop and even backed up 
> some, no help. We spent the weekend anchored in Liberty Bay. on the way home 
> the same noise, I looked at the rudder quadrant and could not see anything. 
> Upon arrival back at my slip I dove on the boat and could not see anything 
> unusual. 
> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Doug
> 
> -- 
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC, WA
> Rebecca Leah
> C&C LandFall 39
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I made a rectangular cutout where instruments used to be located and made a 
nice window that matches the other windows on the boat in terms of corner 
radii, etc.  Looks great!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 15, 2020, at 10:00 AM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> That is similar to what I did.  However: 1) I had two instruments oriented 
> vertically on each side of the companionway, so I used one rectangular piece 
> of starboard for both replacement instruments on each side; 2) I filled in 
> the large holes behind the Starboard as I described in my prior e-mail note; 
> and 3) I discovered that sea foam Starboard is very close to the color of my 
> deck gel coat, so I plan to replace my white starboard pieces with sea foam 
> pieces one of these days.  Relatively low on the priority list.
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 7:13 PM
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes
>  
> Touche' had LARGE instruments when I bought it.  I think they were Kenyons.  
> Anyway, I hate to admit it but I just covered the holes with StarBoard 
> sandwiches and mounted the new instruments in the StarBoard.  See:
>  
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsSEdLX1h5eXJLUUU/view?usp=sharing
>  
> Yeah, I know, kinda bad for a guy who did fiberglass and gelcoat repairs on 
> everybody else's boat.  Just never got around to filling the holes.  Mostly 
> because matching the headliner would be a pain.
> 
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>  
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Charging Problem

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

If your batteries were fully charged the charge controller will not allow 
further charging by the solar panels.

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 1, 2020, at 12:14 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> While yesterday was a bright, sunny day, I noticed that my 100 watt panel was 
> barely providing any power to my batteries.
> Bought from Amazon, this panel [KingSolar, probably Chinese] was purchased 
> and installed in August, 2019.
> I checked the MC connectors, they were OK. 
> Can anyone share their experiences with trouble-shooting solar panel issues?
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Pete W.
>  
> Siren Song
> ’91 C&C 30-2
> Deltaville, VA. 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Butyl tape was used by the factory on my boat in almost all junctions.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On May 21, 2020, at 11:46 PM, cscheaffer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this 
> is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by C&C 
> during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  
> Anybody have opinions on Butyl being better?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I had my yard replace my primary fuel tank several years ago.  Neither the 
engine nor the quadrant had to be removed.  The yard cut out the panel just 
ahead of the tank, removed the panel on the starboard side of the engine, 
removed the water heater and cut out a piece of the bulkhead just aft of the 
water heater.  They were able to turn the tank in its side and removed it 
through the cutout panel aft of the water heater.  (It was pretty easy for me—I 
just had to pay the yard bill!)

One must note that the original tank was only 0.060 inches thick!  My 
replacement tank is 1/4” thick—4 times thicker. It cost very little extra to 
get the much thicker tank—its a no-brainer to do this! I think I have some pics 
that I took of the whole operation if anyone wants them...

Bob

> On May 20, 2020, at 12:23 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.   It looks like the tank is 
> sitting in a pool of dieselI an bummed.   It is the original aluminum 
> tank, but the boat has only been in fresh water - Lake Michigan - so I had 
> though I was safe from corrosion.  Access to the tank is very limitedthe 
> engine and a retaining stringer would probably need to be cut outat least 
> that is what Wally on Stella Blue did.  I cannot think of other 
> optionsand am open to ideas/suggestions.  Cannot launch it as is...
> Spencer Johnson 
> 84 LF38 "Alegria" #165
> Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230
(Spending hurricane season in Baltimore, winters in the Bahamas, and on the ICW 
in between)
411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List Best Shower Boat

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

A separate shower stall was an option on the Landfall 38.  Not many of them 
have it.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On May 15, 2020, at 11:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If you did not want to rely on taking showers ashore, what C&Cs are best set 
> up for onboard showers? I know in theory I could do it now, but it makes a 
> mess out of the head and then some. We shower aboard with a hose in the 
> cockpit now.
> Landfall 38 maybe? Don’ they have a shower stall?
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
> www.dellabarba.com
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Sliding Hatch Leaks //was CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 50

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I take my last email back—they are teak and if you need dimensions I can 
measure them for you since I’m aboard in the Bahamas right now...

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Apr 15, 2020, at 1:11 PM, Robert Boyer  wrote:
> 
> On my LF 38, I have stainless steel bars that the hatch slides on.  These 
> bars overlap the edges and prevent rainwater from entering the boat.  They 
> were original equipment on my 1983 boat.
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
> ICW in between)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> 
>>> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:28 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> The canvas cover looks like a great idea--and easy/inexpensive to either do 
>> or have done--I may go that way to keep water at bay (or in the bay as this 
>> case may be!).
>>  
>> However, if one is on the boat during a rain event--the canvas would not be 
>> very practical since it is attached on the outside although I suppose it 
>> could be done.
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> Thanks to Charles Schaeffer on Resolute, I have some idea of location of  
>> the teak rails on my original hatchway and what they were meant to 
>> do--evidently prevent water from going around the edge of the sliding hatch 
>> and direct it to the fixed hatch, where it was to drain thru the limber 
>> holes in the hood. Of course this was not obvious to me when they began to 
>> fall apart and I removed their remains from under the aft part of the hood. 
>> Since the removing the hood looked to be a formidable job (lots of screws 
>> plus it looks 'heavy'), I shied away from removing it to have a look at 
>> where the rails were. Chuck has assured me that the hood is not that heavy 
>> so replacing the rails is a possibility
>>  
>> I may 'reverse engineer' a replacement of them but I have no drawings, 
>> photos or memory of what size they were, where or how they were mounted and 
>> how many there were. If any lister has a picture or diagram or knows where 
>> one may be, I would appreciate a pointer to it.
>>  
>> Of course,  it looks like the rails may not do a very good job, even if new, 
>>  based on some lister's experiences. Maybe I will just live with a cover!
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson, Water Phantom, C&C 36 XL
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Dreuge via CnC-List 
>> To: Robert Boyer 
>> Cc: Dreuge ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Sent: Wed, Apr 15, 2020 9:47 am
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sliding Hatch Leaks //was CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, 
>> Issue 50
>> 
>> Bob,
>> 
>> I would have leaks around the flat area and under around the companionway 
>> teak frame.  
>> 
>> Paul
>> 
>> 
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C&C Landfall 38 
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>> 
>>> On Apr 15, 2020, at 8:36 AM, Robert Boyer  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> Paul:
>> 
>> Where did you previous leak show up?  I have one that shows up on the flat 
>> surface just above the companionway drawer unit.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>> (Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
>> ICW in between)
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com
>> 
>>> On Apr 14, 2020, at 2:00 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> I had a constant problem with a companionway hatch leaking.   Over the 
>> years, I would track down, fix, and find new leaks.  The leak varied on rate 
>> or duration of rain, or wind directions and strength.Inspired by Dennis' 
>> canvas companionway hatch cover on Touche, I made my own and have not had a 
>> companionway leak since.  It was a good little learning project which has 
>> turned into a huge success.  
>> 
>> Here is the link to my blog page:
>> https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2019/01/fabricating-companionway-canvas-cover.html
>> 
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C&C Landfall 38 
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>> 
>>> On Apr 14, 2020, at 9:59 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>> 
>>> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 19:43:16 +
>>> From: Rob Ball 
>>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 50
>>> Message-ID: 
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>> 
>>> I have had the same sliding hatch leaks. Those ?tracks? indeed hold water 
>>> in that cavity outboard. If they are gone, the water can overflow that much 
>>> easier. 
>>> I actually added height to the sliding tracks with a strip of wood. 
>>> Also my boat was floating bow down so that cavity forward of the hatch 
>>> opening collected water but wouldn?t drain aft into the cockpit. I 

Re: Stus-List Sliding Hatch Leaks //was CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 50

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

On my LF 38, I have stainless steel bars that the hatch slides on.  These bars 
overlap the edges and prevent rainwater from entering the boat.  They were 
original equipment on my 1983 boat.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:28 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> The canvas cover looks like a great idea--and easy/inexpensive to either do 
> or have done--I may go that way to keep water at bay (or in the bay as this 
> case may be!).
>  
> However, if one is on the boat during a rain event--the canvas would not be 
> very practical since it is attached on the outside although I suppose it 
> could be done.
>  
>  
>  
> Thanks to Charles Schaeffer on Resolute, I have some idea of location of  the 
> teak rails on my original hatchway and what they were meant to do--evidently 
> prevent water from going around the edge of the sliding hatch and direct it 
> to the fixed hatch, where it was to drain thru the limber holes in the hood. 
> Of course this was not obvious to me when they began to fall apart and I 
> removed their remains from under the aft part of the hood. Since the removing 
> the hood looked to be a formidable job (lots of screws plus it looks 
> 'heavy'), I shied away from removing it to have a look at where the rails 
> were. Chuck has assured me that the hood is not that heavy so replacing the 
> rails is a possibility
>  
> I may 'reverse engineer' a replacement of them but I have no drawings, photos 
> or memory of what size they were, where or how they were mounted and how many 
> there were. If any lister has a picture or diagram or knows where one may be, 
> I would appreciate a pointer to it.
>  
> Of course,  it looks like the rails may not do a very good job, even if new,  
> based on some lister's experiences. Maybe I will just live with a cover!
>  
>  
>  
> Charlie Nelson, Water Phantom, C&C 36 XL
>  
>  
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Dreuge via CnC-List 
> To: Robert Boyer 
> Cc: Dreuge ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Wed, Apr 15, 2020 9:47 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sliding Hatch Leaks //was CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, 
> Issue 50
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I would have leaks around the flat area and under around the companionway 
> teak frame.  
> 
> Paul
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>>> On Apr 15, 2020, at 8:36 AM, Robert Boyer  wrote:
>>> 
>> Paul:
>> 
>> Where did you previous leak show up?  I have one that shows up on the flat 
>> surface just above the companionway drawer unit.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>> (Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
>> ICW in between)
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com
>> 
>> On Apr 14, 2020, at 2:00 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
> 
> I had a constant problem with a companionway hatch leaking.   Over the years, 
> I would track down, fix, and find new leaks.  The leak varied on rate or 
> duration of rain, or wind directions and strength.Inspired by Dennis' 
> canvas companionway hatch cover on Touche, I made my own and have not had a 
> companionway leak since.  It was a good little learning project which has 
> turned into a huge success.  
> 
> Here is the link to my blog page:
> https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2019/01/fabricating-companionway-canvas-cover.html
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>> On Apr 14, 2020, at 9:59 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 19:43:16 +
>> From: Rob Ball 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 50
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I have had the same sliding hatch leaks. Those ?tracks? indeed hold water in 
>> that cavity outboard. If they are gone, the water can overflow that much 
>> easier. 
>> I actually added height to the sliding tracks with a strip of wood. 
>> Also my boat was floating bow down so that cavity forward of the hatch 
>> opening collected water but wouldn?t drain aft into the cockpit. I moved my 
>> anchor and chain out of the anchor locker to under the cockpit to change the 
>> fore-and-aft trim to help. 
>> Rob Ball.  C&C 34
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contribution

Re: Stus-List Sliding Hatch Leaks //was CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 50

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Paul:

Where did you previous leak show up?  I have one that shows up on the flat 
surface just above the companionway drawer unit.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Apr 14, 2020, at 2:00 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I had a constant problem with a companionway hatch leaking.   Over the years, 
> I would track down, fix, and find new leaks.  The leak varied on rate or 
> duration of rain, or wind directions and strength.Inspired by Dennis' 
> canvas companionway hatch cover on Touche, I made my own and have not had a 
> companionway leak since.  It was a good little learning project which has 
> turned into a huge success.  
> 
> Here is the link to my blog page:
> https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2019/01/fabricating-companionway-canvas-cover.html
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>> On Apr 14, 2020, at 9:59 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 19:43:16 +
>> From: Rob Ball 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 50
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I have had the same sliding hatch leaks. Those ?tracks? indeed hold water in 
>> that cavity outboard. If they are gone, the water can overflow that much 
>> easier. 
>> I actually added height to the sliding tracks with a strip of wood. 
>> Also my boat was floating bow down so that cavity forward of the hatch 
>> opening collected water but wouldn?t drain aft into the cockpit. I moved my 
>> anchor and chain out of the anchor locker to under the cockpit to change the 
>> fore-and-aft trim to help. 
>> Rob Ball.  C&C 34
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Moisture Meter recommendation from Amazon or HD?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Josh:

I am familiar with the IR adaptor for an iPhone—is it available for other cell 
phones as well?  How does moisture in a fiberglass hull show up on infra-red?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Feb 19, 2020, at 1:23 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> You might find the money better spent on a FLiR adapter for your phone.  Much 
> more information can be gained about all sorts of things.  Electrical, 
> engine, moisture...
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>> On Wed, Feb 19, 2020, 08:28 Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi all, 
>> I am looking for a reasonably priced and quality moisture meter so I can 
>> poke around my boat and others. Does anyone have a recommendation? I do not 
>> need anything too professional, but just accurate enough for DIY level. 
>> Thank you!
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Interior teak water stains

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I think it would depend on what type of paint you intend to use and the 
instructions for the paint.  I would think that an oil-based paint would be 
best but I’m certainly no paint expert.

In a way, it seems like a shame to paint over teak but I guess if it lightens 
up the cabin, why not?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Feb 13, 2020, at 5:15 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You got me thinking that this may work for me—paint it white except for teak 
> trim. That might eliminate the stains by painting over them and then just 
> sand/varnish/cleanup the teak trim.
> 
> Do I need any surface prep on the teak (oiled ~8+ years ago) before I paint?
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
> 
> On Tuesday, February 11, 2020, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Perhaps not what you want to hear, but I used gloss white latex porch paint 
> in the head on water stained teak and it worked great.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
> 
> www.dellabarba.com
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
> Nelson via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2020 5:09 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Interior teak water stains
> 
>  
> 
> My interior teak has never been varnished or polyurethaned (?)--It was 
> originally oiled and I re-oiled it once or twice many years ago.
> 
>  
> 
> I would like to apply some Epiphanes to all of it--and there is a lot of it 
> inside my 1995 C&C! However, much of it has 'water stains' from various leaks 
> over the years--most of which are now sealed. 
> 
>  
> 
> My question for the list is how or whether to remove these stains--they are 
> not like water marks left by a glass on a wooden table. They are mostly on 
> vertical surfaces and run vertically. There are enough of them to make 
> sanding them a formidable job so I want to be sure that sanding would be 
> necessary. 
> 
>  
> 
> Some web videos show using heat (iron, blow dryers, etc.) to drive the 
> remaining water out and make the stain disappear which is easy enough to try. 
> 
>  
> 
> Anyone on the list have suggestions to reduce the scale of this job--putting 
> several coats of varnish on all of it would be a formidable job in 
> itself--adding sanding to the surface prep, which I realize is probably the 
> most important part of the job, could make it virtually impossible!
> 
>  
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> 
> Water Phantom
> 
> 1995 C&C XL/kcb
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Interior teak water stains

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I found the blogpost where I described the stain—please find the following link:

http://dainyrays.blogspot.com/2019/07/summer-in-baltimore-july-4-thru-july-7.html#more
 
<http://dainyrays.blogspot.com/2019/07/summer-in-baltimore-july-4-thru-july-7.html#more>


Bob

> On Feb 12, 2020, at 10:35 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Charlie:
> 
> After you remove the water stains, I would highly recommend using a stain to 
> get all the teak to match in shade.  I was able to buy the original stain 
> used in our C&Cs on Amazon.  I’ve mentioned the exact stain and provided a 
> link to buy it in my blog some time ago.  I will try to look it up and send 
> the info to you...
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
> ICW in between)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com <http://dainyrays.blogspot.com/>
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>
> 
>> On Feb 11, 2020, at 5:29 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Perhaps not what you want to hear, but I used gloss white latex porch paint 
>> in the head on water stained teak and it worked great.
>>  
>>  
>> Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
>> www.dellabarba.com <http://www.dellabarba.com/>
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2020 5:09 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc: cenel...@aol.com <mailto:cenel...@aol.com>
>> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Interior teak water stains
>>  
>> My interior teak has never been varnished or polyurethaned (?)--It was 
>> originally oiled and I re-oiled it once or twice many years ago.
>>  
>> I would like to apply some Epiphanes to all of it--and there is a lot of it 
>> inside my 1995 C&C! However, much of it has 'water stains' from various 
>> leaks over the years--most of which are now sealed. 
>>  
>> My question for the list is how or whether to remove these stains--they are 
>> not like water marks left by a glass on a wooden table. They are mostly on 
>> vertical surfaces and run vertically. There are enough of them to make 
>> sanding them a formidable job so I want to be sure that sanding would be 
>> necessary. 
>>  
>> Some web videos show using heat (iron, blow dryers, etc.) to drive the 
>> remaining water out and make the stain disappear which is easy enough to 
>> try. 
>>  
>> Anyone on the list have suggestions to reduce the scale of this job--putting 
>> several coats of varnish on all of it would be a formidable job in 
>> itself--adding sanding to the surface prep, which I realize is probably the 
>> most important part of the job, could make it virtually impossible!
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> 1995 C&C XL/kcb
>>  
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230
(Spending hurricane season in Baltimore, winters in the Bahamas, and on the ICW 
in between)
411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List Interior teak water stains

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Charlie:

After you remove the water stains, I would highly recommend using a stain to 
get all the teak to match in shade.  I was able to buy the original stain used 
in our C&Cs on Amazon.  I’ve mentioned the exact stain and provided a link to 
buy it in my blog some time ago.  I will try to look it up and send the info to 
you...

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Feb 11, 2020, at 5:29 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Perhaps not what you want to hear, but I used gloss white latex porch paint 
> in the head on water stained teak and it worked great.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
> www.dellabarba.com
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
> Nelson via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2020 5:09 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Interior teak water stains
>  
> My interior teak has never been varnished or polyurethaned (?)--It was 
> originally oiled and I re-oiled it once or twice many years ago.
>  
> I would like to apply some Epiphanes to all of it--and there is a lot of it 
> inside my 1995 C&C! However, much of it has 'water stains' from various leaks 
> over the years--most of which are now sealed. 
>  
> My question for the list is how or whether to remove these stains--they are 
> not like water marks left by a glass on a wooden table. They are mostly on 
> vertical surfaces and run vertically. There are enough of them to make 
> sanding them a formidable job so I want to be sure that sanding would be 
> necessary. 
>  
> Some web videos show using heat (iron, blow dryers, etc.) to drive the 
> remaining water out and make the stain disappear which is easy enough to try. 
>  
> Anyone on the list have suggestions to reduce the scale of this job--putting 
> several coats of varnish on all of it would be a formidable job in 
> itself--adding sanding to the surface prep, which I realize is probably the 
> most important part of the job, could make it virtually impossible!
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C XL/kcb
>  
>  
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List general warning on LED lights

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I will add some information in support of Joe’s assertion.  I have an amplified 
TV antenna mounted near the top of my mast.  When I have my LED anchor light 
turned on I get interference with the TV picture.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Feb 10, 2020, at 8:24 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Jeff,
> 
> I read your post below with interest, and just to test my stern light (in 
> which I use an Amazon LED bulb) I took my handheld, turned it to 16, and 
> literally held the antenna up to the lens with the light on.  No change in 
> the static was noticed, nor when I had the squelch set just right did it 
> trigger any noise.  
> 
> You mention that "you might never hear it".  Is there any way to truly test 
> for this besides what I did?  
> 
> Thanks for the insights, 
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> On Thursday, February 6, 2020, 9:17:35 AM EST, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Some LEDs produce large amounts of RFI well into the VHF spectrum. 
> Interference at HF frequencies is certainly an issue, but most of us aren’t 
> on the SSB all day and the noise is pretty obvious in SSB or AM modes. I can 
> turn lights on and off until it goes away.
> 
> Noise up into VHF is far more insidious. You might never hear it, but it can 
> severely de-sense FM reception anyway. AIS is tricky, no one listens to AIS, 
> so you will just wonder why you have no targets that are not 1 mile or less 
> distant. LED anchor lights or masthead running lights can be the worst of 
> all, they are right next to the VHF antenna.
> 
>  
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Holding tanks

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I used ot have a plastic welding business in Annapolis and I used to be a 
distributor for Kracor.  I can tell you that they make excellent tanks and I 
think you will find that they are thicker plastic than Ronco tanks.  I’m sure 
that Kracor can provide names of distributors in your area.

Bob

> On Jan 28, 2020, at 7:22 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi John
> 
> Perhaps a dumb question, but Kracor must be selling tanks to stay in
> business and if they only work through distributors or OEM's there must be
> some who will deal with the public  Will Kracor provide a list of
> distributors??  Maybe try some boat OEM's??
> 
> Best of luck
> 
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
> McCrea via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, January 27, 2020 9:50 AM
> To: 'SEAN CONNER'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John McCrea
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 168, Issue 55
> 
> Thanks Sean. My research had brought me to Ronco for the same 18 gallon
> tank. So I must be on the right path. Will get the book!
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: SEAN CONNER  
> Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 5:07 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 168, Issue 55
> 
> I just completed a total head plumbing refit on our new boat, and wanted to
> concur with Adrian's comments. I ended up adding a new holding tank as well
> (long story) and fortunately I was able to figure out the model of the OEM
> Kracor tank.  Ronco then used that info and came up with a nearly exact
> match.  So if you can draft a good dimensional drawing, they will likely
> find a stock mold that will fit.  For us it ended up being an 18 gallon
> tank.  I ordered a blank tank and the total cost including shipping to NH
> was about $340.   BTW, I also used Peggy's book as a guide, and used
> Uniseals for the fittings installed on top of tank.  easy peasy.  Good luck!
> 
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 16:54:03 -0500
>> From: Adrian Humphreys 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Tank Replacement.
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>> 
>> Ronco-Plastics.com
>> 
>> They have ready-made tooling for a lot of different tanks, and will work
> with you to find one that fits your need. Make a dimensioned drawing for
> them. The tank is roto-molded when you order, so you can specify the
> fittings you want.  The original tank under the v-berth on our C&C-33 had
> the outlet at the bottom of the vee where it had cracked and leaked. We
> specified a "dip-tube" outlet, so all the fittings (inlet, vent, inspection
> port, and outlet) are on or near the top. The tank we chose is a very close
> match to the original and fits the space well. They will also create custom
> tooling, but IIRC, the price estimate started at $2,000+
>> 
>> Cost was a little over $300 for our 18 gallon tank and fittings; UPS
> shipping from California was almost half that. Rich Gray at Ronco was a
> great help.
>> 
>> We added all new plumbing, larger vent, hand bilge pump to empty it, an
> external sensor kit from ferriellosales.com/monitoring-systems.html
> ($150.00), and a lot of labor. The Peggy Hall book was essential to the
> planning (amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Boat-Odors/).
>> 
>> Adrian Humphreys
>> Epilogue, Rockport ME
>> C&C 33-2 
>> adri...@telamontech.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jan 24, 2020, at 9:30 AM, John McCrea via CnC-List
>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello. I am in the process of replacing the holding tank on our 1979 C&C
> 36. We bought the boat in 2018 and it had a bladder for a tank under the v.
> I want to go back to the original configuration of the 24-gallon plastic
> tank. I visited a sister ship last weekend and after taking all the
> dimensions, I found the tank on the Kracor website. Kracor no longer sells
> to the public. Through some marine industry connections, I did find out that
> Tartan does have the toolings for that tank but said that be prepared to pay
> a lot for it. As in over $500. Does anyone else know of a source for either
> a custom tank or something similar to the original? Thanks!
>>> 
>>> John McCrea
>>> Talisman
>>> Mystic, CT
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Eac

Re: Stus-List Head Tank Replacement.

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

$500 is not bad for a roto molded tank made to order.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jan 24, 2020, at 9:31 AM, John McCrea via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello. I am in the process of replacing the holding tank on our 1979 C&C 36. 
> We bought the boat in 2018 and it had a bladder for a tank under the v. I 
> want to go back to the original configuration of the 24-gallon plastic tank. 
> I visited a sister ship last weekend and after taking all the dimensions, I 
> found the tank on the Kracor website. Kracor no longer sells to the public. 
> Through some marine industry connections, I did find out that Tartan does 
> have the toolings for that tank but said that be prepared to pay a lot for 
> it. As in over $500. Does anyone else know of a source for either a custom 
> tank or something similar to the original? Thanks!
>  
> John McCrea
> Talisman
> Mystic, CT
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Condensation

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

The best solution is to cruise south in the winter!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jan 21, 2020, at 2:18 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I wonder if anyone has any profound opinions on condensation, two aspects in 
> particular I am concerned with.
> One is in the engine, I have seen boats who have plugged the exhaust pipe(s), 
> and maybe even the intake inside the boat –
>  
> And also in the cabin. I usually leave a hatch and something else on the 
> other end of the boat open, so some air can circulate throughout the winter.
> Then I began to doubt the usefulness of this a couple weekends ago, when It 
> hit 71 here, and was still 45 down in the cabin.
> I noticed lots of condensation below, which really bothers me.
>  
> Does anyone know what the best solution is ?
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
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Re: Stus-List Spurs Line Cutters - experience?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

As result of a recent problem (pictures on my last blogpost) with a mass of 
seaweed (maybe eel grass) wrapped tightly around the base of my prop, I am 
considering the installation of spurs line cutters during my mid-summer 
haulout.  Does anyone have any advice based on their experience with spurs?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jan 10, 2020, at 10:45 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The way I have to look at it is based on being on the hard from October to 
> May. If I was in the water like Josh 11/12 months or Bob 12/12, I wouldn’t 
> even look at it. It wouldn’t make sense to me either and simply is not 
> required. If you have ever checked on your boat and found water just under 
> the floor boards or quite possibly just over the floor boards frozen solid 
> you would understand why I have no problem properly installing one. It’s just 
> peace of mind. I think this hull penetration is much less a risk than the 
> others. Just count for yourself how many hull penetrations you have when you 
> include instruments, stuffing box and traditional thru hulls. I believe stock 
> I have 9 “holes” and the garboard plug is 10. It’s really a different mindset 
> based on a northern climate. Anyway glad I finally did it after 20 years so 
> we can travel where it’s warm without worry, that was the point of my 
> original post lol. 
> Len
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 


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Re: Stus-List Garboard plug

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Yes, I agree with Josh—one more hole that could let water into the boat.  No 
way I would do this in my boat!

Bob

> On Jan 10, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My only concern to doing this is the same concern I have with any hull 
> penetration - one more hole to inadvertently let water in.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Fri, Jan 10, 2020, 10:51 AM Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Our bilge is shallow but not as shallow as a KCB model. I would install it 
> low in the keel stub. It would be best as low as you can and mine may be 
> 1/4-1/2 inch off the bottom and it works fine. I would normally vacuum and 
> sponge out the bilge whenever it was above freezing but that was difficult to 
> plan with a normal work schedule. I installed it with epoxy and faired the 
> garboard drain so you would have to look hard to see it. I suppose you could 
> use 5200 but I don’t like using it.  I had epoxy cure (temperature) issues so 
> it isn’t as smooth as it will be next April. I bought a nylon plug and kept 
> the bronze plug as a spare. There is no downside to this project and that’s 
> why I should have done it 20 years ago on our 1981 36 KCB too. Hopefully you 
> can open the Dropbox photos. If not let me know. 
> Len 
> 
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/5gwyjrpy2ee8xgo/Photo%202019-05-03%2C%204%2001%2020%20PM.jpg?dl=0
>  
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230
(Spending hurricane season in Baltimore, winters in the Bahamas, and on the ICW 
in between)
411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List Battery Bank Configuration

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

There may come a time that I regret my current battery configuration but I 
haven’t regretted it for the past 5 years of cruising.  I currently have four 
Group 31 Firefly Oasis carbon foam AGM’s ($500 each) in parallel as one large 
battery bank.  I have 340 watts of flexible (Solbian) solar panels that feed 
the single large battery bank.

I believe that battery combiners and similar devices are more likely to fail 
than my batteries.  (If I ever have a dead battery, I will isolate it and 
continue to operate with just three until I can replace it.  I think the idea 
of a separate starting battery and the notion of the need to separate batteries 
into two usable banks is outdated—it was a continuation from a time before 
reliable batteries were available.  I wouldn’t use my system with cheaper 
batteries.)

Bob (currently in Nassau with 75 degree weather!)

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jan 4, 2020, at 10:18 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> You're boat is wired wrong or you are misinterpreting the indications.  You 
> are absolutely correct that the starter battery should be "spared".  Really 
> what "spared" means is that it should always and only be connected to the 
> engine starter.  The output of the alternator should be switched by an ACR or 
> echo charge to charge the start battery only after the house batts have 
> sufficient voltage.
> 
> In the link is a picture of a "better" way to wire a system like yours.  If 
> you wanted to install the system as depicted but split the bank of 2 house 
> batteries, you could re-purpose your old/existing 1-all-2 switch such that it 
> separates the 2 house batts shown as a single bank.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bmc_PsjKHSQKYjy4Jnhl7ZV232MoiOJ2/view?usp=drivesdk
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Jan 4, 2020, 9:27 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> This may be obvious to most of you but came as a surprise to me.  I've got a 
>> 3 battery bank with 2 deep cycles and 1 starter battery.  It's got a 1 All 2 
>>  switch.  I was testing load and was surprised to see that if you're using 1 
>> or 2 it's also drawing power off the starter battery too.
>> 
>> Doesn't this defeat the point. Shouldn't the starter battery be completely 
>> spared while not running the engine.
>> 
>> Is there a better configuration?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance!
>> 
>> Peter
>> 
>> 84 Landfall 35
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List rooftop hatch A/C

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Will:

I am not familiar with the A/C unit you are considering but if it is a 
removable unit (when you are sailing) you will also need a place to store it 
onboard.  A built-in unit will eliminate this need too.  I would also think 
that a water-cooled A/ C would be smaller in volume.  I am a full-time 
liveaboard/cruiser currently in the Bahamas and we are using our A/C tonight!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jan 2, 2020, at 5:49 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Will,
> 
> Most, if not all, the negative comments are directed at the CruisAir portable 
> units.  You're talking about the Coleman Roughneck AC unit.  That's got quite 
> a bit more BTU cooling than the small CruisAir portables.  Give it a shot.  
> Let us know how it works.
> 
> Just make sure you've got sufficient wiring to handle the starting amps and 
> the heating amps.
> 
> Hope someone helps with the pin removal on your hatch.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Thu, Jan 2, 2020 at 4:31 PM Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Still looking for help with our actual need: opening the space where our 
>> v-berth hatch is!
>> Regarding comments, the roughneck unit is designed for harsh use, is marine 
>> grade, 13,500 btu and ratings over 4.2 so I’m surprised folks think it is a 
>> disaster already! 
>> The unsaid background is this: Joy wanted A/C whereas I did not; our 
>> compromise was to at least be able to air condition the v-berth (very few 
>> cubic feet of air since most of it is 40” tall) and anything beyond that is 
>> a bonus. We are retired travelers so we can pick our desired climate for any 
>> particular season. We will only be at marinas 1/3 of the time so we needed a 
>> unit that will not interfere with sailing or moving around the boat (so “no” 
>> to any companionway ideas) and could be run off our Honda generator. I also 
>> did not want major changes to the boat in case we decided to not need an A/C 
>> later on. So the $900 is more expensive than window shakers but with lots of 
>> upside possibilities and much less expensive than invasive A/C systems. 
>> Thanks for all the comments so far. 
>> Joy & Will C&C41 Costume Change, in Portland Maine until May
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Rooftop A/C and deck hatch

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Will, you may not want to hear this, but unless you are located in Canada, the 
small hatch mounted A/C will not be adequate to cool your C&C 40.  I have a 
Landfall 38 with onboard 16,000 Btu A/C and some extremely hot days In 
Baltimore MD it works very hard.  Before you make any more investment in time 
and money. I would consider a much larger A/C.

Bob
.
> On Jan 2, 2020, at 12:00 PM, Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi all, I’m new. Joy and I have a 1986 CNC 41. 
> We have bought a rooftop A/C unit that would fit over our V-berth hatch. My 
> problem is I can’t figure out how to either remove the hatch lid, or remove 
> the glass in the hatch lid in order to create the needed opening. 
> The hinges I thought I could remove consists of threaded bolts that have no 
> head—so once the cap nuts are removed from each side of a hinge, the bolt 
> can’t be extracted. I tried a vice grips on it but I couldn’t even get it to 
> turn. Hence, I then turned my attention to perhaps removing the glazing 
> itself. 
> Either approach is fine with me. Any suggestions? Thanks, Will
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230

411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List Shower drain won't and "loss" of toilet bowl water fill

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I don't think these two systems are connected.  I think you have two unrelated 
problems.  Have fun with them!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Dec 19, 2019, at 8:01 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> water


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Re: Stus-List Mechanical shaft seal options

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I don’t use the vent hose.  I do burp the shaft seal after a launch.  I think 
having the vent hose adds an unnecessary risk and has very little, if any, 
benefit.  Just my $0.02.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Dec 11, 2019, at 5:31 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  For a vented PYI, you need to make sure that the vent is high enough above 
> the water level or you risk getting burps of water if you need to go into 
> high reverse (e.g. when docking or emergency stopping). Some use a bottle 
> that collect these burps. I plumbed the vent into the sink drain. As long as 
> you open the drain occasionally, no issues. 
> 
> Marek 
> 
> 1994 C270 Legato 
> Ottawa, ON 
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
> Date: 2019-12-11 10:57 (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Ken Heaton 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Mechanical shaft seal options
> 
> Is yours vented?  The vent was added some years ago. With it you never need 
> to burp the seal.  We don't have the vent so occasionally we do have to burp 
> it.  If I ever replace it I will put the same dripless, but with the vent.
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>> On Tue, 10 Dec 2019 at 13:48, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Alright folks,
>> 
>> I'm looking for thoughts on a replacement for my PYI dripless shaft seal.  
>> It has worked fine and I'm not afraid to stick with it but I'm looking for 
>> possible options or improvements.
>> 
>> I've heard of Tides Marine making one and Sailor Sam's sells 4 different 
>> designs by the name Last Drop.
>> 
>> I'll be pulling and truing the shaft, rebuilding the prop, replacing the 
>> cutlass bearing, replacing the seal.  Anything else I'm forgetting while I 
>> have it apart? 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks, 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List 2020 Rendezvous

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

If we hold the 2020 rendezvous at Anchorage Marina in Baltimore we will have 
access to a large Boater’s lounge in the event of rain.  We can also hold it 
the last weekend in September.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Oct 31, 2019, at 2:48 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Josh, we will get to the rendezvous wherever the group decides it is. The 
> only weekend we could not attend would be the weekend of Oct 3 due to our 
> northern haul out. If you can find a location with a pavilion or building 
> close by to get out of the weather, that would be a big plus as the 
> rendezvous seems to be growing and rain can happen. Maybe we should look at a 
> pot luck night so everyone could participate with something, the food was 
> awesome again and well received. The gumbo, taco meatloaf and crab macaroni 
> among other things were delicious. Gary was great in St Michaels for his 
> local knowledge and the distillery tour was a big hit. Anyone within driving 
> distance should consider it too. For Susanne and I, the people, boats and 
> location make it worth a 10-12 hour drive. Thanks again to all who attended. 
> Keep up the good work! 
> 
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List 2020 Mid-Atlantic C&C Rendezvous

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

If we can hold the 2020 rendezvous at Anchorage Marina in Baltimore, Maggie and 
I will host it. giving Josh a break.  I would prefer Oct 2, 3, and 4 but we are 
very flexible.

Bob

> On Oct 23, 2019, at 12:05 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> All right folks, 
> 
> With the 2019 Rendezvous only slightly in the rear view mirror, we're already 
> seeing quite a bit of discussion regarding next year.  I'll take that as an 
> indication of the success of this year's event!
> 
> Additionally, we are already discussing a location for 2021!  It tentatively 
> looks like Solomons for 2021.  Dates TBD. 
> 
> As for 2020: We are REQUESTING input on locations and dates.  
> Weekend dates we are in the early stages of considering are the last weekend 
> of Sept and the first weekend of Oct. (Sept 25, 26,27 and Oct 2, 3, 4)
> Previous year's polls have indicated that the highest number of people were 
> interested in locations on the Chesapeake Bay between Annapolis and Solomons. 
>  Outliers both further North and South voted but not in sufficiently high 
> numbers to warrant an immediate venue consideration.
> I also say that those who attend most in the past get priority vote for 
> future events.  As such - Rainy Days, La Neige, Coquina, Crazy Legs, Der 
> Barron, Sea Hawk, SEA YA !, and Ciothog - your input is absolutely requested.
> A lot of spirit has been generated around Baltimore's Anchorage Marina.
> All thoughts, inputs, votes, considerations, etc. are more than welcome.  
> Please!  I'm begging!  I'll re-poll shortly but without input we'll have to 
> just make executive decisions.  I say it again and again, "This isn't my 
> event, it is ours.  If no one attends then the event is a failure of efforts. 
>  I want it to be whatever, where ever, and whenever is best for the largest 
> number of interested people."
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230

411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List Baltimore Rendezvous 2020 idea

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Thanks, Chuck!

> On Oct 22, 2019, at 1:56 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey Bob, 
> 
> 
> 
> Baltimore is an interesting idea for next year's rendezvous.  It would be 
> October 3rd as the show is scheduled for 7th thru 12th in 2020.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not voting for or against, just clarifying the date.  It does mean that 
> people could fly into Baltimore Airport and Uber over.
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1990 C&C 34R Pasadena, Md
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230

411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List St Michael's rendezvous

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Josh:

You did a great job of organizing the rendezvous!  Thank you very much!

If the rendezvous will be a week before the sailboat show next year and we can 
hold it at Anchorage Marina in Baltimore, Maggie and I will be glad to organize 
it and give you a break.

Bob



> On Oct 22, 2019, at 10:19 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> To all those who thanked me for my organizing efforts, you're very welcome.  
> I try to remind everyone that what I do is pretty insignificant considering 
> the efforts which we all put forth to attend.  I also like to remind everyone 
> that this is not MY Rendezvous.  If someone has interest in organizing or 
> thinks that they can do something better I am eager for the help.
> 
> We got home last night at about 6:30pm.  We still had time to pump out in 
> mostly daylight.  As predicted the winds were straight from behind us at 
> 15kts once we turned south onto the bay.  They were also predicted to die off 
> around 2pm.  We went wing and wing with the 145% genny poled out.  Speed was 
> good and while the winds were greater than 7 or 8 but once things calmed down 
> below 4 knots of wind I knew that we would have to start the engine.  We made 
> it about 30 miles, almost to Cove Point, before finally giving up and 
> motoring home the last 15 miles.
> 
> I'd like to say thanks to everyone who came and especially to those who 
> helped organize this year's rendezvous.  It's great to see return attendees.  
> Coming by boat is awesome but a special shout out to the Mitchell's who drove 
> from Midland Ontario and to the Schwartz's who flew from North Carolina!
> 
> Shortly, I'll be polling for dates and locations for next year's event.  I 
> prefer to not exclude those who have attended in the past but I also like 
> moving to different locations and possibly dates to help accommodate those 
> who haven't been able to join us.  If you have any input at all please let me 
> know.
> 
> All the posts from the event can be seen and shared on the event page here:
> https://www.facebook.com/events/249336025743002/?ti=cl 
> 
> 
> It is a public Facebook group if you are not a member just request and I'll 
> add you.
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Josh and Carmeletta Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, Oct 20, 2019, 8:45 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Yeah, the rendezvous in St Michaels was great. It's so nice to finally meet 
> you and all the others and link a person to all the emails we share. So many 
> great people and so many great stories. Hope to get my boat to the next one. 
> Great camaraderie and good weather and excellent food. Look forward to 
> getting those recipes. 
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1990 C&C 34R on the hard in Pasadena, Md
> 
> I posted a few pictures of the boats and attendees, here: 
> 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/yK8KQRrC7ySEo2GS8 
> 
>> On October 20, 2019 at 7:15 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Everyone get home today safely?
>> 
>> I had a wet trip back right into the NorEaster. No real issues besides 
>> the voltage regulator dying for some reason - maybe being 25 years old 
>> ??? - so I kluged a cabin light bulb as a regulator and it held a about 
>> 12.9 volts. The Narrows had the current against me full blast at the 
>> bridge and then when I got to Castle Harbor the waves lines right up 
>> straight between the jettys and I hit 8.5 knots coming into the marina :)
>> 
>> In case I forgot: THANKS EVERYONE!!! My wife and I had a GREAT TIME and 
>> some GREAT FOOD!
>> 
>> Joe
>> 
>> Coquina
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
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> 
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> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230

411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List St Michael's rendezvous

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

We are anchored on the right side of the channel into St Michaels.  We plan to 
join everyone tomorrow.  We will come in by dinghy.  What is the plan for 
tomorrow & Sunday?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Oct 18, 2019, at 4:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Yeah we're on approach.  ETA 5:54pm.
> 
> Josh and Carmeletta Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 443-295-3238 
> 
>> On Fri, Oct 18, 2019, 4:45 PM detroito91 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Just left the museum...water level low..@ 5 feet. They trying to work things 
>> out. One boat has arrived
>> Jim Schwartz 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List windlass and chain without a snubber, good way to lose a boat

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I use a rugged chain stopper to take the load off the windlass.

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Oct 14, 2019, at 7:03 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The snubber performs several functions; it takes strain off the windlass, it 
> stops the chain clunking as the boat swings ( don’t know about you guys, but 
> Masquerade dances around on the hook, it provides just a little more shock 
> absorption when the breeze is strong enough to stretch out the chain.
> Andy
> Masquerade
> Currently in Oxford, MD
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI 
> USA02842
> 
> www.burtonsailing.com
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Oct 14, 2019, at 18:39, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Isn't that what catenary in the anchor chain is for?
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>> On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 4:42 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I think the use of a snubber is a small part of the problem here.  First, 
>>> he never should have anchored near the path of a high-speed ferry.  Second, 
>>> he should have tied the end of his anchor chain to the boat so it couldn’t 
>>> have gotten loose overboard.  I have never used a snubber on my anchor 
>>> chain and I don’t think it would have made much of a difference in this 
>>> case.  That’s just my opinion...
>>> 
>>> Bob
>>> 
>>> Bob Boyer
>>> s/v Rainy Days
>>> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>>> (Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
>>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>>> 
>>>>> On Oct 14, 2019, at 12:13 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>> Anyone who uses a windlass and chain without a snubber should watch this 
>>>> video.  Note in the video that there is a statement pointing the blame on 
>>>> ferry boat wake rather than on the owner failure to use of a snubber by 
>>>> saying "very very few people actually use a snubber”.   
>>>> 
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vdaxrGfT1M
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -
>>>> Paul E.
>>>> 1981 C&C Landfall 38 
>>>> S/V Johanna Rose
>>>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>>>> 
>>>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>>>> 
>>>> ___
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
>>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
>>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List windlass and chain without a snubber, good way to lose a boat

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I think the use of a snubber is a small part of the problem here.  First, he 
never should have anchored near the path of a high-speed ferry.  Second, he 
should have tied the end of his anchor chain to the boat so it couldn’t have 
gotten loose overboard.  I have never used a snubber on my anchor chain and I 
don’t think it would have made much of a difference in this case.  That’s just 
my opinion...

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Oct 14, 2019, at 12:13 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Anyone who uses a windlass and chain without a snubber should watch this 
> video.  Note in the video that there is a statement pointing the blame on 
> ferry boat wake rather than on the owner failure to use of a snubber by 
> saying "very very few people actually use a snubber”.   
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vdaxrGfT1M
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Potable water conservation

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Dennis:

Are the settings of 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5 for gallons per minute?  In your message 
the unit was “games” but it must have been a spell check thing.

Bob

> On Oct 1, 2019, at 10:16 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> As many of us with the racer/cruiser (non-Landfall) models are painfully 
> aware, potable water tankage is minimal.  I recently replaced Touché’s 
> plastic Whale brand galley faucet with a nice Scandvik faucet. Yeah, it was a 
> please the Admiral thing. 
> 
> Anyway, the new faucet uses a LOT more water than the Whale one. I was 
> refilling the tank much more often. 
> 
> Searching for a solution I found and installed one of these:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Niagara-Conservation-N3610CH-Water-Saving-Standard/dp/B0096C2IVC
>  
> 
> 
> It has settings for 0.5, 1.0 and 1.5 games. I can definitely see the 
> difference in the three levels. Hoping it reduces the water usage. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230

411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List cabin door replacement

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I have a spare forward interior door for a Landfall 38 but I’m not sure if it 
will fit your frame or style.  Can you measure your interior frame?  Do you 
have any pics of the door before it was destroyed?

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Sep 29, 2019, at 9:47 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> A few weeks ago, in a race, one of my crew was thrown into the forward cabin 
> door which shattered into many pieces.  With only two of us on the boat it is 
> not needed at all, so I am not too worried, I am curious what others think 
> about the utility of a front cabin door.  We have never used it (closed it).  
> If we decide to replace it, does anyone have suggestions on where to start?  
> Does someone sell doors or are they all custom?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Flooded Batteries

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I have had (4) Group 31 Firefly Oasis carbon-foam AGM batteries (in parallel) 
on board Rainy Days for nearly five years now and I love them.  They can cycle 
deeper than conventional batteries and have a greater cycle life.  In 
performance, they are between Lithium and conventional AGMs.  They are still 
rather heavy and expensive ($500 each) but very reliable.

In addition, I do not have them broken into two banks like many people do.  I 
have 340 watts of good quality flexible solar panels and very good MPPT 
controllers.

We are year-round cruisers.   You may think that the maintenance is minimal on 
flooded cells but it would be added to all the other boat maintenance I have to 
do.

I don’t know why no one has mentioned these in the discussion of batteries.

Bob

There is no way that I would use flooded cells while this technology is 
available.  Also, batteries, in my opinion, are not a place to go cheap.

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Sep 24, 2019, at 12:47 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Paul,
>  
> in your calculations, you can assume 30% of usable capacity of a normal 
> flooded battery (from 50% SoC to 80% SoC), which would shift the calculations 
> a bit towards the Lithium batteries. The problem is that you would need a 
> completely new charging system, which would throw the calculations in the 
> opposite direction.
>  
> Another consideration is weight. The LiFe batteries would be (roughly) 1/4 of 
> the flooded.
>  
> And yet another dimension – usability, or maintainability. The flooded 
> batteries are very easy to maintain, most people know (or should) how to use 
> them and even if we murder them occasionally (more often than we want to 
> admit), they are cheap to replace. I think, this is the biggest advantage and 
> the reason why LiFe are not gaining enough momentum. Maybe we need to give 
> them a few years...
>  
> Marek
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: Dreuge via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2019 10:03
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Dreuge
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Flooded Batteries
>  
> While I have been looking into LiFe batteries, I still think Trojan T105 
> provide the best bang for the buck.  Cost have come down a little for lithium 
> batteries, and with industry leaders like Trojan now selling these 
> batteries(already at better $/AH), I’m expecting reasonable price drops in 
> the coming years.
>  
> For example, a pair of T105 provides 115 usable AH (50% of 230AH @ 12V) for 
> total price of $280.The Trojan Trillium TR 12.8 110 provides 100 useable  
> AH (90% of 110AH @ 12V) for a price just over $1,000.   If I had to replace 
> my house bank today, I would go with 4 Trojan T105.  Worst case they would 
> last 4-5yrs but likely longer.   In 5 years, one should not be surprised to 
> see lithium prices drop by more than 25% (i.e. a cost saving of about $550 or 
> the cost of the 4 Trojans).
>  
> I know folks who highly recommend the Sam’s Club GC2 Duracell batteries.  
> While I’m a fan of the Trojan quality, at $90/battery or $360 for 215 usable 
> AH (50% of 430 AH), the Sam’s Club option is worth looking at especially if 
> one is considering going with LiFe batteries later rather than sooner.  To be 
> fair, if I was full time cruising, I would weigh the sooner rather than the 
> later.
>  
> just my two bits,
> Paul
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>  
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>> On Sep 23, 2019, at 8:16 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>  
>>> On 9/22/2019 10:28 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List wrote:
>>> 
>>> Anyone still use flooded batteries.  Looking to replace 3 weak batteries
>>> that are causing engine startng issues.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Are the AGM or Gel batteries worth the $$ s.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Peter Cowenhoven
>>> 
>>> Branford CT
>>> 
>>> Landfall 35
> 
>  
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

It is not simply high or low density—the tank was made from LLDPE and rods must 
be the same material.

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Sep 7, 2019, at 8:48 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The tank was made from LLDPE.  Make sure your weld rods are the exact same 
> material!
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD 
> (Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)
> 
>> On Sep 6, 2019, at 6:31 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> My water tank is leaking again. I want to attempt a weld to repair it.
>>  
>> It is a Kracor polypropylene tank, but the labeling details have faded over 
>> time, and no longer legible.  I don’t know what kind of polypropylene was 
>> used to construct the tank.
>>  So, the question is, do I use hi-density OR lo-density polypropylene?  Or, 
>> does it matter?
>>  
>> Thanks!
>>  
>> Pete W.
>> Siren Song
>> C&C 30-2
>> Deltaville, Va. 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

The tank was made from LLDPE.  Make sure your weld rods are the exact same 
material!

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Sep 6, 2019, at 6:31 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My water tank is leaking again. I want to attempt a weld to repair it.
>  
> It is a Kracor polypropylene tank, but the labeling details have faded over 
> time, and no longer legible.  I don’t know what kind of polypropylene was 
> used to construct the tank.
>  So, the question is, do I use hi-density OR lo-density polypropylene?  Or, 
> does it matter?
>  
> Thanks!
>  
> Pete W.
> Siren Song
> C&C 30-2
> Deltaville, Va. 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Rainy Days will be coming but will be anchoring in the harbor!

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Aug 19, 2019, at 12:55 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I got word from Higgins they should be able to accommodate ~6 boats.  We had 
> 5 official boats in the reserved slips at Annapolis last year plus S/V Rainy 
> Days who stayed separate.  When I attended the 2017 N.E. Rendezvous there 
> were 5 boats with a late breaking cancelation.  So 6 feels good as an 
> unofficial count.  I need to move fast to make the reservation.  As I was 
> warned St. Mike's does lots of festivals and that weekend turns out to be one 
> of their biggest.
> 
> As Gary stated before, Higgins is not a "Marina" it is a boat yard.  The cost 
> is very reasonable but amenities like pool and restaurant are not available 
> the bathrooms are sparse.  My favorite thing about Higgins is the location.  
> It is perfectly located in the center of town.  Such an easy walk everywhere.
> 
> This is the make or break day on whether we keep the venue at St. Michael's 
> or change to a different venue.  
> 
> PLEASE RSVP TODAY SO THAT I CAN MAKE THE FINAL DECISION AND DOCKAGE 
> RESERVATION!
> 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Josh Muckley
> 443-295-3238 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Aug 19, 2019, 11:50 AM detroito91 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Will take your advice
>> Jim Schwartz 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
>> Date: 8/19/19 11:45 AM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned
>> 
>> I would reserve a room now. St Mikes is a popular place to go and you want 
>> to be in town.
>> 
>> Joe
>> 
>> Coquina
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: detroito91 [mailto:detroit...@aol.com] 
>> Sent: Friday, August 16, 2019 9:15 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> We should be there without boat
>> 
>> Jim Schwartz 
>> 
>> 38 landfall 
>> 
>> SEA YA !
>> 
>> Washington nc 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

While this may not help you with your diesel issue, in the 36 years that I have 
owned my boat, I have never even tried to achieve RPMs above about 2800.  I can 
achieve hull speed at 2600 RPMs and I generally cruise at 2400 RPM.

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Aug 17, 2019, at 8:13 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My 2GMF 13HP on my 29 mk 2 is dropping RPMs at max throttle under load. It 
> also appears to drift a bit while operating at a fixed throttle. Tied at the 
> dock forward seems to have more difficulty that reverse. I should be able to 
> get up to 3200-3400 RPM (and have been able to in recent times with no issue, 
> but I'm only getting to about 2500-2800. When I open the throttle wide it in 
> gear it initially goes to high RPMs and then drops back. I replaced the fuel 
> filter and the symptom remains the same. Any thoughts on what to look for and 
> approaches to debug? 
> 
> I've got the service manual and Don Casey's book on small engines, but 
> nothing is matching the symptoms in trouble shooting exactly well.
> 
> So my theories are (in approximate order of suspicion from my novice 
> perspective based on reading)
> 
> Governor is faulty and needs adjustment
> Injector faulty
> Fuel pump issue
> Air/water in fuel (I think I've mostly ruled this out)
> 
>  
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I would be willing to anchor in the outer harbor as we are heading south for 
winter from there.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Aug 13, 2019, at 7:49 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> As my boat is berthed next to Higgins (and winters there), I asked. Busy. The 
> marinas around here are busy until the end of October. We only have a few 
> slips available – Higgins has about 20 but a lot of repeat visitors, St. 
> Michaels  Marina has more but is busy most weekends, you may be better at 
> CBMM (I am involved there and can ask) and Harbor Inn and Marina is limited 
> and expensive.
>  
> I asked at Higgins (by the way they are new owners and great folks, but are 
> keeping full) so I have to wonder how many attendees would be willing to 
> anchor out – we can probably find a place for a party – my lawn is too small 
> – the shuttle service is rather good, so anchoring is not a problem – I would 
> recommend Fogg Cove by the Museum (and Perry Cabin megabucks resort – you 
> have to endure the Hinckley tour boat and the fleet of Alerions of various 
> lengths). About 10 feet and good holding.
>  
> Would you consider Miles River Yacht Club – again limited slips (bunch of 
> owner boats) but the ‘creek’ has good space and I think the shuttle would be 
> OK to get into town?
>  
> Sorry for no more local knowledge, but it has been a busy spring/summer, and 
> we don’t have a lot of room, but a great place to live and sail.
>  
> Gary Nylander
> 30-1
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 4:45 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned
>  
> I don’t think we have a final location. The Maritime Museum is fun. The 
> Harbor Inn on the other side is luxurious. Higgins is a boatyard – not fancy 
> – but nice people. The St Michaels Harbor Marina (sp??) is loud and the 
> owners don’t care. Kind of the party marina over there.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: Robert Boyer [mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com] 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 4:42 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned
>  
> Where in St. Michaels?
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> 
> On Aug 13, 2019, at 11:15 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Sounds fun! We love fall J
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 11:11 AM
> To: C&C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned
>  
> That's right.  Weekend after sailboat show in October.
>  
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
>  
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 10:56 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I seem to recall something about St. Michaels maybe?
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Where in St. Michaels?

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Aug 13, 2019, at 11:15 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Sounds fun! We love fall J
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 11:11 AM
> To: C&C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned
>  
> That's right.  Weekend after sailboat show in October.
>  
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
>  
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 10:56 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I seem to recall something about St. Michaels maybe?
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 3QM cooling system woes

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Fred:

What is going to make the seawater circulate through the engine?  Are you going 
to the raw water pump to circulate seawater through the engine’s cavity?  I 
would think that the volume of seawater circulated would need to be greater 
than the antifreeze/water mixture normally in the closed cooling system since 
it is less efficient in heat exchange but there may be enough seawater that 
would be pumped by the raw water pump.  You might find that the temperarture 
will run a little higher than normal.


> On Aug 9, 2019, at 2:04 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello, all — I’ve got a 1979 LF38 with the original Yanmar 3QM diesel, fitted 
> with a Sendure fresh-water exchanger kit (also original).
> 
> Over the last season or so, I’ve been noticing a slow but accelerating drop 
> in the coolant level.  In the last month, it has sped up quite a lot.  It’s 
> not getting into the oil, and the head gasket is relatively new.  With the 
> recent acceleration, there’s also a lot of white smoke (steam) in the exhaust 
> as well.
> 
> I’m thinking the heat exchanger may have developed a leak (or leaks) between 
> the fresh and raw water sides.  I’m going to pull it this weekend and test it 
> to see if that’s the case.  I am also going to replace ALL coolant hoses 
> (fresh and raw, including the loops to the water heater and the v-drive).  I 
> ordered 50 feet of 1/2” and 3/4” Gates green-stripe (off Amazon) to keep 
> costs lower per foot and make sure I have enough; this may also allow me to 
> perform a temporary fix in case the exchanger is toast, by completely 
> bypassing the Sendure system and effectively making the engine raw-water 
> cooled until I can decide what to do with the exchanger.  This would also 
> allow me to go on an extended weekend cruise next weekend without worry.  
> BTW, so that I don’t have to try to size new belts for the engine, I’ll leave 
> the add-on coolant pump in place, but remove the impeller and just let it 
> freewheel for the temporary fix (with no hoses connected).  It’s fairly new, 
> I replaced it a few years ago.
> 
> Anyone see any downsides to this plan; or any other places I can look for the 
> missing coolant?   🙂
> 
> — Fred
> 
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230

411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List New Nav App for my iPad

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I really like AquaMap—I mainly use it for route planning.  I don’t like to use 
my iPad where it could be exposed to water, like in the cockpit.  You might 
want to look on eBay for a newer iPad.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jul 19, 2019, at 2:15 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Bear with me for a moment while I explain my situation and get to my question.
>  
> I have an older iPad that gets used for several things, including backup for 
> the Garmin plotter on my own boat and an alternate to the plotters on OPB’s 
> when I’m doing deliveries. The iPad has the older Garmin Blue Chart Mobile 
> App (with charts updated to spring 2018) with older Active Captain data (very 
> useful when on the ICW, but can’t be updated in Blue Chart Mobile), Predict 
> Wind, Drag Queen, and some other navigation stuff. When not on a boat I use 
> the pad as an e-reader, to get email occasionally, to check the weather, etc.
>  
> I’m not sure what generation of iPad it is, but it is old enough that it has 
> the wide Apple connection and not the new one introduced with the iPhone 5 or 
> 6 several years ago. The operating system is IOS 9.3.5, but because of the 
> age of the device I can’t upgrade to a higher version of IOS.
>  
> I’d like to update/upgrade the charts, but the Garmin App that replaced Blue 
> Chart Mobile (and includes the new Active Captain software) requires IOS 10 
> or higher. I looked at iNAVX, but that also requires IOS 10 or higher. I 
> would need to buy a newer iPad (though a friend suggested going to a local 
> pawn shop to save on the cost) and reload all my other stuff – which I’d like 
> to avoid.
>  
> I’ve heard positive comments about Aqua Map, which contains AC data and uses 
> Explorer charts, and has very good reviews on the App Store. The Navionics 
> Marine and Lakes app is recently updated (I think Garmin bought Navionics and 
> now uses those charts for the Garmin app and plotters), and has a lot of 
> features like automated (?) route planning, but has a lower average review 
> than Aqua Map. Either will run on the IOS 9 that I have on my iPad.
>  
> So my question is (or maybe that should be questions are):
>  
> Can anyone comment on experience with Navionics or Aqua Map?
>  
> Can anyone suggest a good alternative App that will run on my iPad and let me 
> update my cahrts for the east coast and Bahamas?
>  
> Thanks for your comments/suggestions.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
> la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
> Washington, NC
>  
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Toilets

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I’ve had one for 4 years and love it.  We are full-time cruisers. 

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jul 7, 2019, at 12:15 PM, Dave. via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I’m installing one now. All reports I get so far are positive.
> Dave. Kaseler
> SLY
> 1975 CC 33
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jul 7, 2019, at 9:08 AM, Glenn Henderson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Have any of you had experience with Composting toilets?
>> 
>> Glenn Henderson
>> C&C 41 
>> WeGo
>> 
>>> On Sun, Jul 7, 2019 at 12:00 PM  wrote:
>>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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>>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>>> 
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>>> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
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>>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>>> Today's Topics:
>>> 
>>>1.  C&C35-3 spinnakers for sale (Rich)
>>>2. Re:  Voltage / Amp Hours (Josh Muckley)
>>>3.  Toilet Replacement (Raymond Macklin)
>>>4. Re:  Toilet Replacement (Neil E. Andersen)
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Rich 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: 
>>> Bcc: 
>>> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 21:05:41 -0400
>>> Subject: Stus-List C&C35-3 spinnakers for sale
>>> I have a great 2014 North Sails S2 Airmax 600 all purpose spinnaker that 
>>> needs a new home. I will also throw in an old spinnaker that came with the 
>>> boat that is a great heavy air chute. It probably came with the boat in 
>>> 1988 but never used. It was still crisp when I got my boat in 2011. Anyway, 
>>> we converted to asym 2 years ago so have no more use for them. 2 great 
>>> sails. You won’t be disappointed. Make an offer!
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> Richard Spitzenberger  CPA
>>> R JMS
>>> C&C 35-3
>>> Phone 631-331-3140
>>> r...@spitzenbergercpa.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Josh Muckley 
>>> To: "C&C List" , ocha...@gmail.com
>>> Cc: 
>>> Bcc: 
>>> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 21:49:11 -0400
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours
>>> Olivier,
>>> 
>>> It sounds like you are using solar to charge? Under this situation you 
>>> would have charge current at high noon.  While charging (with or without 
>>> any other loads) the battery is nowhere near full charged if it is reading 
>>> 14.01v.  While charging, the very lowest voltage reading which you could 
>>> even halfway consider full would be 14.4v which is kinda common for auto 
>>> alternators and some bench type chargers.  More likely you haven't come 
>>> close to full charge until 14.6v or 14.7v but as discussed previously this 
>>> is just the end of the bulk charge phase and represents only ~80%.  You 
>>> really need a measure of the charge current once 14.7v is reached to know 
>>> better where you are between 80% and 100%.
>>> 
>>> Josh Muckley 
>>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 2:37 PM Olivier Chatot via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Hi Edd,
 
 I agree with Marek and Gary about the voltage reading not being a reliable 
 indication of the state of charge. Here's an example from my boat. At noon 
 my battery bank is normally back to full charge and the voltmeter shows 
 14.01V, cool. A second later the fridge starts and the voltage drops to 
 close to 13V.  
 
 Best,
 Olivier
 
> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 13:46 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Edd,
> to add to what Gary said...
>  
> any measurement of the remaining capacity of the battery bank is tricky, 
> because it depends on how accurate your in- and out- meters are, what the 
> actual (current) total battery bank capacity is (it changes over time, 
> never up) and at what SoC (state of charge) you started the measurements.
>  
> I assume that your 450 Ah is a nominal capacity, but you don’t know how 
> much of that is left.
>  
> The 6 A you mention, is it 6 A over several hours (let’s say 3), i.e. 6 A 
> times “several (3)” hours = ~18 Ah or just 6 Ah? However, on a 450 Ah 
> battery bank, even 20 Ah is just under 5%, so if you started with 100% 
> SoC you should be at 95% (if it was 6 Ah, the SoC should be 98.5%).
>  
> As Gary mentioned, re-synchronisation is a must.
>  
> The voltage you are seeing depends heavily on what is using the battery 
> at the given time (as you check it). I can almost guarantee that if you 
> were watching the monitor at the time of starting the motor, the voltage 
> meter would show some numb

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: compost toilet?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Even dogs can be trained to sit.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Jun 13, 2019, at 9:01 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The VacuFlush system looks very attractive from a "please the wife" point of 
> view, but there would be a lot of parts to go wrong or pop a leak.
> The compost head seems to have a huge advantage in not having even one hose 
> to leak or smell. I think the hardest part might be getting all the male crew 
> to SIT.
> Anyone have a Lectra-San? I have installed a few of them back in the day. A 
> new install isn't a bad job, but fixing one is barely one step up from 
> cleaning up a nuclear reactor meltdown :(
> 
> Joe
> Coquina
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: compost toilet?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

A composting toilet has MUCH less odor than any marine head.  The only reason 
for "not completely composting" is that it would take too long.  We change our 
solids container every 3 weeks (2 of us) while we're cruising and it looks like 
a very dark soil except for the most recent additions.

I would never go back to a marine toilet with a holding tank!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Jun 12, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am not sure that is an issue. I never did think it was going to make 
> literal garden compost that could go right from the boat to my yard.
> What I do worry about is how user friendly it will be and if it ends up being 
> a stinking mess.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2019 4:24 PM
> To: C&C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: compost toilet?
>  
> This isn't the original articles but one that echos the fact that composting 
> toilets don't actually compost.  I'm still looking for the original.
>  
> https://www.livesmallridefree.com/blog/why-your-composting-toilet-doesnt-actually-compost-poop
>  
> Josh
>  
> On Mon, Jun 10, 2019, 2:06 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Any link to that article?
> Joe
>  
> ions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
> list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Water heater

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

It is quite possible (and it has happened to mine after changing the water 
heater) to have a pocket of air on the glycol side that prevents circulation of 
the glycol.  To solve this, remove one end of the hose and fill it with the 
glycol/water solution and then re-attach the hose.  At this point it shoul 
re-establish flow.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On May 16, 2019, at 9:51 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bruce, the engine loop inside the water heater is usually copper with no 
> check valves so it should not matter how it’s connected, it’s just a loop. 
> You can tell which hose is the supply with the engine running, it’s going to 
> be the warmest one. The little bit of air inside the loop will be removed by 
> the engine in its normal cycle and coolant will be drawn back in from your 
> coolant reservoir. The air inside the tank will come out the hot side of a 
> faucet. I avoid bleeding air using the pressure temperature relief valve 
> because they are notorious for dripping after you do, probably less of a risk 
> at boat pressure compared to household pressure. If it does it’s usually made 
> by Watts and they aren’t too expensive or hard to replace with a small pipe 
> wrench. You haven’t said why you suspect air but if it’s been disconnected a 
> while the engine inlet or outlet can become plugged and not circulate. Best 
> way to tell is if you have warm water circulating through both hoses with the 
> engine running. 
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+ 
> Midland On. 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List question

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I can speak from experience on my LF38.  Your problem is most likely a 
misalignment in the upper rudder bearing--the one mounted right below the helm 
mounted with 4 bolts.  The correction is probably best performed out of the 
water.  Simply loosen the four bolts & move the bearing until the steering 
frees up then tighten the mounting bolts.

If this is not the problem I would add grease to the grease cup on the rudder 
shaft.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)

> On Apr 24, 2019, at 11:10 AM, Camille Cloutier via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi, 
> 
> We just signed in the CnC-List mailing list and we would have a question 
> concerning our C&C boat Landfall 38. We live in Québec and we are french 
> speaking so I'll try to express myself as good as I can :)
> 
> We find that the streering wheel is harder to turn then other C&C we have 
> tried. We have replace all the wires so we are sure that the problem doesn't 
> come from the pedestal. In the instruction manual, they talk about a grease 
> cup which we don't have. We don't have teflon washer around the rudder shaft 
> in the water either.
> 
> Does anyone have informations about how the whole rudder system is put 
> together so we can recondition it to have a smooth and easy steering wheel? 
> 
> Thank you very much
> 
> Camille
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Replacing a CnC 44 Rudder

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Mild steel structure inside the rudder is BAD!

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently traveling north on ICW)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Apr 20, 2019, at 9:10 AM, Daniel Cormier via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Rob,
> It sounds unbelievable but I was told by the last fibreglass man to have 
> worked on my rudder that the fins/grid structure inside my rudder (original) 
> are made from MILD STEEL and welded to the stainless steel post. Where many 
> of us have wet rudders, this is obviously very very bad. I’ll send an email 
> to the list when I have the rudder open to verify this. Part of the current 
> plan is to cut these away and replace with 316 stainless fins.
> 
> Dan
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 20, 2019, at 7:36 AM, Robert Boyer  wrote:
>> 
>> The metal grid structure inside the rudder is very important. On our C&C’s 
>> this structure is made from stainless steel plates that are welded to the 
>> stainless steel rudder shaft.  Tartan 37’s are known to have a problem with 
>> their carbon steel internal rudder plates that were welded to the stainless 
>> steel rudder shaft—the carbon steel internal structure would corrode (from 
>> inadvertent water exposure) allowing the shaft to rotate inside the rudder.  
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>> (Presently traveling north on ICW)
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> 
>>> On Apr 20, 2019, at 12:39 AM, Dan via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone,
>>> I've looked into both Foss Foam and Competition Composites. Both options 
>>> are landing well into the $5000 cdn range (including freight) which is way 
>>> beyond my budget. Foss Foam doesn't have a C&C44 Rudder mold but can try to 
>>> "match" something similar which scares me a little and it's roughliey $1200 
>>> US to get it to Canada. Competition has a very expensive high-tech process 
>>> using CAD software and a milling machine which I'm sure is standard for any 
>>> Americas Cup contender but drives the price as expected.
>>> 
>>> Has anyone tried to re-build their own rudder? - I've been told carving 
>>> 15lb density rigid foam and encapuslating is the way to go - like this:
>>> http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2011/07/rudder-rebuild.html
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> 
>>> 
 On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 9:00 AM Rod Stright via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 I would suggest Competition Composites in Ontario excellent 
 workmanship,Canadian 
 
 Rod
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 > On Apr 18, 2019, at 4:38 PM, Dan via CnC-List  
 > wrote:
 > 
 > Has any C&C44 owners on the list replaced their rudder, and if so, where 
 > did you have the work done? - The price is dramatically reduced if they 
 > have an existing mold to work with.
 > 
 > Dan Cormier
 > Breakaweigh
 > C&C44
 > Halifax, NS
 > ___
 > 
 > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
 > and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
 > use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 > 
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Replacing a CnC 44 Rudder

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

The metal grid structure inside the rudder is very important. On our C&C’s this 
structure is made from stainless steel plates that are welded to the stainless 
steel rudder shaft.  Tartan 37’s are known to have a problem with their carbon 
steel internal rudder plates that were welded to the stainless steel rudder 
shaft—the carbon steel internal structure would corrode (from inadvertent water 
exposure) allowing the shaft to rotate inside the rudder.  

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently traveling north on ICW)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Apr 20, 2019, at 12:39 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Thanks everyone,
> I've looked into both Foss Foam and Competition Composites. Both options are 
> landing well into the $5000 cdn range (including freight) which is way beyond 
> my budget. Foss Foam doesn't have a C&C44 Rudder mold but can try to "match" 
> something similar which scares me a little and it's roughliey $1200 US to get 
> it to Canada. Competition has a very expensive high-tech process using CAD 
> software and a milling machine which I'm sure is standard for any Americas 
> Cup contender but drives the price as expected.
> 
> Has anyone tried to re-build their own rudder? - I've been told carving 15lb 
> density rigid foam and encapuslating is the way to go - like this:
> http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2011/07/rudder-rebuild.html
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 9:00 AM Rod Stright via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I would suggest Competition Composites in Ontario excellent 
>> workmanship,Canadian 
>> 
>> Rod
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> > On Apr 18, 2019, at 4:38 PM, Dan via CnC-List  
>> > wrote:
>> > 
>> > Has any C&C44 owners on the list replaced their rudder, and if so, where 
>> > did you have the work done? - The price is dramatically reduced if they 
>> > have an existing mold to work with.
>> > 
>> > Dan Cormier
>> > Breakaweigh
>> > C&C44
>> > Halifax, NS
>> > ___
>> > 
>> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
>> > and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
>> > use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> > 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Replacing a CnC 44 Rudder

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I replaced the rudder on my LF38 about 12 years ago.  I bought the replacement 
rudder from South Shore and had it shipped to my boatyard in Maryland.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently traveling north on ICW)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Apr 18, 2019, at 3:38 PM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Has any C&C44 owners on the list replaced their rudder, and if so, where did 
> you have the work done? - The price is dramatically reduced if they have an 
> existing mold to work with.
> 
> Dan Cormier
> Breakaweigh
> C&C44
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Anchoring over bow roller

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Yes, allowing the anchor line to simply lay on the rollers is fine—in fact you 
don’t even need a chafe guard most of the time.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Mar 26, 2019, at 2:28 PM, Sam Tunanidas via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All, 
> I usually marina hop and have yet to anchor overnight.  We plan on doing that 
> this year in the muddy Chesapeake Bay.  Our boat is a Landfall 38.  The 
> chocks (used for dock lines) on the front of the boat do not look convenient 
> for anchoring due to the angle of the pull. My question is will it be okay to 
> leave my eight plait line run through the rollers with a Chafe-Pro chafe 
> guard at the point of chafe as long as I add something to keep the line from 
> jumping out of the rollers?  Are the stem fittings on the LF38 strong enough 
> to handle the load should the wind pipe up to 40 mph or so.  They appear to 
> be.  I have the double roller style stem fitting.  Rarely see 40 mph here in 
> the Bay but it does happen. If the forecast for the wind is higher we usually 
> stay home.  Too much like work when you are 70 years old.   
> Thank you,
> Sam Tunanidas
> Glide Path LF38
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Re: Stus-List Broken shift cable

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I can’t help you with the cable length since my boat is different but I can 
recommend replacing it with a twisted cable (like a wire stay) instead of a 
solid cable.  Good luck!

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Mar 5, 2019, at 5:32 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Sunday the shift cable on my 44 broke. Are there any 44 owners out who have 
> replaced this cable?
> My cable is a red Morse cable. 
> My question is; how long is it?
> I would like any suggestions on how to fish a new cable in.  The cable comes 
> down from the binacle runs under 2 fuel tanks and floorboards to the engine. 
> 
> Thanks 
> Fred Hazzard 
> S/V Fury 
> C&C 44
> Portland Or 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot tiller arm on LF38 *without* bolting to quadrant?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I’ve had my autopilot for probably 20+ years with the Type 1 linear actuator 
directly attached to the quadrant with no issues.  The quadrant attachment is 
reinforced with aluminum plates.  We live aboard and cruise up and down the ICW 
and to/from the Bahamas.  I think your worries are unfounded.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Mar 3, 2019, at 10:40 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I know there was a thread about below-decks autopilots on the Landfall 38 
> where discussion ended up on "bolt it to the radial drive, reinforcing the 
> attachment point." ( 
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2018-May/200838.html )
> 
> I'm researching this now, with interest in installing a Raymarine EV-200 with 
> type 1 mechanical linear drive, and I think it *might* be possible to do 
> without bolting to the radial drive. Does anyone know if any LF38 has 
> successfully done this?  
> 
> I've already read dreuge's post - 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2016/12/below-deck-autopilot.html - which 
> is excellent. But he went a different route than I want to go, so it would be 
> helpful to see other photos and installation ideas. 
> 
> The reason I want to avoid bolting to the radial drive is that Edson has 
> repeatedly advised against it, calling it a "likely catastrophic failure" and 
> saying the cast aluminum fixture is not designed for those kind of torsional 
> forces, it's designed for pulling forces (via the cables). A Type 1 ram has 
> 650 lbs peak thrust and a type 2 has 1050 lbs. Additionally I have found one 
> account of someone who had their Edson radial explode (with autopilot mounted 
> to it) - it took 15 years before this happened, but still not a risk that's 
> worth it in my mind. 
> 
> The ideas I'm considering for doing this without mounting to the radial are: 
> 
> A) custom tiller arm, with a 90 degree bend to clear the radial drive rim. It 
> would clamp to the rudder shaft in the 1.9" of available space (1.5" of that 
> is within the bottom concave part of the radial drive). Note I have no diesel 
> tank under the steering, which makes this easier. I don't have a design for 
> this idea though.
> 
> B) Jefa 270 degree quadrant with integrated tiller arm. 
> https://www.jefa.com/steering/products/cable/quadrants/quadrants.htm
> I'm talking to Jefa (part of PYI now) this week. The quadrant with welded on 
> tiller arm has less overall height than an Edson radial drive, so it would 
> fit. But I'm not sure about positioning of the linear drive unit - it's 27.5" 
> long and the LF38 stern is quite narrow. 
> 
> Sorry for the long post. The motivation for a below-decks autopilot is that 
> the wheel pilot is not strong enough for significant wave state (it's only 
> rated for 16.5k lbs displacement, and the LF38 is more like 19-20k when 
> loaded for cruising).
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C LF38
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Teak interior steps

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I applied cut & trimmed carpet pieces to mine about 15 years ago—still holding 
up strong!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Feb 10, 2019, at 8:42 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I varnished mine and applied stick-on treads about 7 years ago.  Looks 
> professional, and no one slips.  One of the treads is finally showing wear 
> and can be easily replaced.  After 7 years I’m tempted to re-do the entire 
> thing but there’s no need.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Feb 10, 2019, at 10:48 AM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Cleaning the teak steps up but how do I finish them? Should I varnish? 
>> Should I oil? Should I leave them as they are?
>> ___
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Josh was correct in that PEX and QEST are different and my experience was with 
the QEST piping originally supplied on my boat.  It leaked quite frequently 
over the early years and, unless you live aboard like we do, you would probably 
never notice it.  We noticed it through the cycling of the fresh water pump.

Throughout the many years I’ve owned my boat, I relocated (and replaced) the 
fresh water pump from its original location under the galley sink to a place in 
the engine compartment aft of the quarter berth—mostly to cut down on pump 
noise.  In this location it is more likely to freeze in cold weather but as 
I’ve mentioned previously we avoid being subjected to cold weather.

I completely agree with the notion that any piping system other than simple 
hoses and hose barb connections are over-engineered unless your boat never 
leaves very far from your home base.  If you cruise, being able to make your 
own repairs is very important.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jan 31, 2019, at 8:46 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Josh, Bob (and others),
> 
> Thank you.  I was thinking simple plastic barbed fittings with reinforced 
> hose and hose clamps are simple and effective.  My only concern, from 
> reading, is the hose not being opaque enough to eliminate any growth in the 
> lines.  But then, these water hoses are all hidden and out of the sun so no 
> issue there (I believe).  
> 
> The PEX and Sharkbite systems all seem to be an expensive, over-engineered 
> solution for this simple application.  Which is why I asked the question to 
> begin with.
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> David F. Risch, J. D.
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
> (401) 419-4650 
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 11:37 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Josh Muckley
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...
>  
> Shark bite is one popular manufacturer.  They are typically metal fittings 
> and considerably higher cost compared to the plastic alternative made by 
> Watts.  Both are significantly more expensive than the barbed fittings and 
> crimp.  
> 
> In residential settings one of the significant cost advantages is the "home 
> run" topology.  Since the tubing is flexible, elbows and tees are no longer 
> needed like they would be on a copper installation.  Similarly the time 
> associated with assembly is reduced considerably.  One continuous pipe from 
> source to destination.  The bend radius and methods of securing the tube/pipe 
> in place makes the "home run" a bit more challenging on board a boat.
> 
> A home run using a flexible drinking water hose product like that made by 
> Shields or Trident is my choice.  The flexibility coupled with the freeze 
> protection and durability all and up to a quality and lasting solution.  Use 
> barbed brass fittings and clamps.  It sounds like this was Bob Boyer's 
> solution.
> 
> Trident #162, 163, 164, or 165
> https://tridentmarine.com/product/trident-reinforced-pvc-hose-164162/
> 
> https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Selecting-Marine-Hoses
> 
> This is the lowest price per foot I could quickly find... And it is more 
> expensive than PEX.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CR4OP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zONuCb7PXTPM7
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, Jan 30, 2019, 11:00 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I’ve done a couple of plumbing and landscaping projects using PEX tubing. 
> Lowes and probably Home Depot sell a fitting for PEX tubing that uses small 
> teeth where the fitting engages the tubing and requires no special tool. You 
> simply push the fitting into the tube. I’ve not had any leaks I know of. I 
> can’t recall the brand name.
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 10:06 AM
> To: CNC CNC 
> Cc: David 
> Subject: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...
>  
> I am sure this has been gone over before...so please indulge me.
>  
> Replacing, re-designing, water lines in 1981 40-2.  Pex is the obvious 
> choice.   Are there less obvious (and have cheaper tools required to install) 
> choices?
>  
> Has anyone improved on the original design?   I am thinking of adding easier 
> accessible manifolds and an additional line for antifreeze and blowing out 
> water.
>  
> Thanks in advance.
>  
> David F. Risch, J. D.
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC 
> (401) 419-4650 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this

Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I replaced my fresh water systems in several steps—my main goal was to get rid 
of PEX and to use standard hoses, standard hose fittings, and good clamps.  Our 
situation is quite different that most of the boaters on this list.  We live 
aboard full time and we cruise south every winter—so, we don’t need to concern 
ourselves with freezing temperatures.  In the past I have had several fresh 
water leaks with the PEX fittings and I wanted them gone.  However, some still 
remain under my head sink—it is a tough spot to get in and change them.  I used 
reinforced 1/2-inch vinyl hoses throughout.  I still have a fresh water leak 
that I think is in one of the original PEX hoses but I can’t find it.

Bob

> On Jan 30, 2019, at 4:39 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I just replaced all my water lines and fresh water holding tanks last winter. 
>  I used a $30 crimp tool and the band clamps for most of it.  I used some 
> quick disconnect 90s at a low point in the bilge to drain everything down.  I 
> also used distribution blocks and made every fixture a home run.  The pex is 
> smaller in diameter to the usual tube you see in older boats.  So, I could 
> run more tubing in the same space as the old.  
> 
> This is my first winter so I can't really speak to how well I did with 
> draining but, I'm pretty confident.  I did suck on all the lines with a shop 
> vac.  
> 
> The nicest part was having an all new water system!
> 
> Danny
> 
> On 1/30/2019 11:26 AM, Rob Ball via CnC-List wrote:
>> If installing waterlines, are there not tubes one could use that can 
>> tolerate freezing – so we could avoid antifreeze entirely . . . . ?
>> In this era of plastics, surely there’s a way . . .
>>  
>> Cheers, Rob Ball
>> C&C 34 r...@edsonintl.com 
>> 
>>  
>> From: David   
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 10:06 AM
>> To: CNC CNC  
>> Subject: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...
>>  
>> I am sure this has been gone over before...so please indulge me.
>>  
>> Replacing, re-designing, water lines in 1981 40-2.  Pex is the obvious 
>> choice.   Are there less obvious (and have cheaper tools required to 
>> install) choices?
>>  
>> Has anyone improved on the original design?   I am thinking of adding easier 
>> accessible manifolds and an additional line for antifreeze and blowing out 
>> water.
>>  
>> Thanks in advance.
>>  
>> David F. Risch, J. D.
>> 
>> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC 
>> 
>> (401) 419-4650 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230

411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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