Re: [M100] DVI cable
I must admit that I'm starting to get confused myself but unless I hear otherwise I'm going to stick with my original opinion (Oct 17) that the DIP pin 1 should connect to the IDC header pin 1 which would connect DIP 29 to header 24, not 23. Sounds like your cable connects DIP 1 to Header 2 etc. Correct ?Yours? DIP IDC DIP IDC 1 1 1 2 2 3 2 4 3 5 3 6 4 7 4 8 5 9 5 10 6 11 6 12 7 13 7 14 8 15 8 16 9 17 9 18 10 19 10 20 11 21 11 22 12 23 12 24 13 25 13 26 14 27 14 28 15 29 15 30 16 31 16 32 17 33 17 34 18 35 18 36 19 37 19 38 20 39 20 40 21 40 21 39 22 38 22 37 23 36 23 35 24 34 24 33 25 32 25 31 26 30 26 29 27 28 27 27 28 26 28 25 29 24 29 23 30 22 30 21 31 20 31 19 32 18 32 17 33 16 33 15 34 14 34 13 35 12 35 11 36 10 36 9 37 8 37 7 38 6 38 5 39 4 39 3 40 2 40 1 m - Original Message - From: Brian White To: m...@bitchin100.com Sent: Monday, October 23, 2017 10:11 PM Subject: Re: [M100] DVI cable My order from Phoenix came in. http://www.king-cart.com/phoenixent/product_name=HWS15322 http://www.king-cart.com/phoenixent/product_name=HWS1877 http://www.king-cart.com/phoenixent/product_name=HWS16014 I have determined that: * The DIP connector above IS the kind that connects pin1 to conductor2. * If you crimp the two connectors above straight-through with no twisting pairs of wires or other tricks to get the pinout flipped, that results in a cable with the right wiring, at least according to the tech/service manuals for both M100 and DVI. I have some pictures here so you could make the cable by just visually matching up the orientations of the connectors and cable: http://tandy.wiki/Disk/Video_Interface One of the pictures there is I took the bus pinout drawings from both manuals, and added another drawing for dip40 for the m100 side, so you can easily figure out or verify a cable, ignoring any theories about flipping pairs or which way the cable should go into a connector etc, you just go from pin to pin, by number, with the drawings for the connectors so you know which pin actually is pin6 on both connectors etc, so you can match up the *signals*. for certain. So I have verified that these parts crimped this way, results in a cable that for example, pin 29 on the Model 100 goes to pin 23 on the DVI. (The WR pin goes to the WR pin.) Same for everything else. HOWEVER I can't say I actually used it successfully. I followed the boot sequence in the DVI manual and the DVI presents the first two prompts on my monitor, the disk drive makes a noise briefly, the disk drive light comes on, all as the manual says to expect. But when I insert my boot disk and close the door latch, nothing ever happens. My boot disk is an original not a copy, so it might be corrupt from age but at least I know it's not simply mis-labeled or a bad copy. I still have another M100 and a T102 I could try, including a home-made T102 cable that came with the unit. (someone butchered it out of an IDE cable.) One symptom that shows something somewhere is wrong, is that when I turn on the dvi, usually the m100 does something bad. Sometimes the M100 screen goes blank, sometimes it simply freezes (the clock stops counting), sometimes 2 or 3 of the character cells on the M100 screen get scrambled. With the dvi cable unplugged and then cold-start, the M100 behaves normal and seems to work fine, and displays the same free ram. I haven't verified that the system bus is still functional, but I can. I have a PG Designs 8-bank ram upgrade that goes in a M100 bus connector. The M100 even acts normal after a cold-start even with the cable and dvi connected, before turning the dvi on. -- bkw
Re: [M100] DVI cable
My order from Phoenix came in. http://www.king-cart.com/phoenixent/product_name=HWS15322 http://www.king-cart.com/phoenixent/product_name=HWS1877 http://www.king-cart.com/phoenixent/product_name=HWS16014 I have determined that: * The DIP connector above IS the kind that connects pin1 to conductor2. * If you crimp the two connectors above straight-through with no twisting pairs of wires or other tricks to get the pinout flipped, that results in a cable with the right wiring, at least according to the tech/service manuals for both M100 and DVI. I have some pictures here so you could make the cable by just visually matching up the orientations of the connectors and cable: http://tandy.wiki/Disk/Video_Interface One of the pictures there is I took the bus pinout drawings from both manuals, and added another drawing for dip40 for the m100 side, so you can easily figure out or verify a cable, ignoring any theories about flipping pairs or which way the cable should go into a connector etc, you just go from pin to pin, by number, with the drawings for the connectors so you know which pin actually is pin6 on both connectors etc, so you can match up the *signals*. for certain. So I have verified that these parts crimped this way, results in a cable that for example, pin 29 on the Model 100 goes to pin 23 on the DVI. (The WR pin goes to the WR pin.) Same for everything else. HOWEVER I can't say I actually used it successfully. I followed the boot sequence in the DVI manual and the DVI presents the first two prompts on my monitor, the disk drive makes a noise briefly, the disk drive light comes on, all as the manual says to expect. But when I insert my boot disk and close the door latch, nothing ever happens. My boot disk is an original not a copy, so it might be corrupt from age but at least I know it's not simply mis-labeled or a bad copy. I still have another M100 and a T102 I could try, including a home-made T102 cable that came with the unit. (someone butchered it out of an IDE cable.) One symptom that shows something somewhere is wrong, is that when I turn on the dvi, usually the m100 does something bad. Sometimes the M100 screen goes blank, sometimes it simply freezes (the clock stops counting), sometimes 2 or 3 of the character cells on the M100 screen get scrambled. With the dvi cable unplugged and then cold-start, the M100 behaves normal and seems to work fine, and displays the same free ram. I haven't verified that the system bus is still functional, but I can. I have a PG Designs 8-bank ram upgrade that goes in a M100 bus connector. The M100 even acts normal after a cold-start even with the cable and dvi connected, before turning the dvi on. -- bkw
Re: [M100] Micro-TPDD2
On Oct 23, 2017 11:30 AM, "John R. Hogerhuis" wrote: Mark says it got no interest on the list? Apologies to Mark... I must have missed it. Sounds pretty cool. — John. https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1200/1*RUGZMXLwiftJ4Cb4dnxLGA.png
Re: [M100] Micro-TPDD2
I never saw this before either. Looks awesome. On Oct 23, 2017 11:30 AM, "John R. Hogerhuis" wrote: > Mark says it got no interest on the list? > > Apologies to Mark... I must have missed it. > > Sounds pretty cool. > > — John. > > >
Re: [M100] Micro-TPDD2
Mark says it got no interest on the list? Apologies to Mark... I must have missed it. Sounds pretty cool. — John.
Re: [M100] Micro-TPDD2
I'm sort of planning to do 2) and 3) with the uDrive; if anybody does patch the modem speed I'd appreciate sharing it. m - Original Message - From: Stephen Adolph To: m...@bitchin100.com Sent: Monday, October 23, 2017 9:46 AM Subject: Re: [M100] Micro-TPDD2 I know what I would do with this 1) get a patched TSDOS that enables use of the internal modem 2) hardwire this into the modem port at the serial chip 3) patch the M100 ROM to allow the modem port to be set to 19200, or 2x19200, or 4x19200. On Mon, Oct 23, 2017 at 9:25 AM, Brian Brindle wrote: Just happened on this board on OSHPark - this from anyone have any info on it? https://www.oshpark.com/profiles/Stardust
Re: [M100] Micro-TPDD2
This looks like the work of Mark Blair. I've seen him talk about it on Twitter https://twitter.com/nf6x/status/891403495978356736 On Mon, Oct 23, 2017 at 9:46 AM, Stephen Adolph wrote: > I know what I would do with this > > 1) get a patched TSDOS that enables use of the internal modem > 2) hardwire this into the modem port at the serial chip > 3) patch the M100 ROM to allow the modem port to be set to 19200, or > 2x19200, or 4x19200. > > On Mon, Oct 23, 2017 at 9:25 AM, Brian Brindle wrote: >> >> Just happened on this board on OSHPark - this from anyone have any info on >> it? >> >> https://www.oshpark.com/profiles/Stardust >> >> >> >
Re: [M100] Micro-TPDD2
I know what I would do with this 1) get a patched TSDOS that enables use of the internal modem 2) hardwire this into the modem port at the serial chip 3) patch the M100 ROM to allow the modem port to be set to 19200, or 2x19200, or 4x19200. On Mon, Oct 23, 2017 at 9:25 AM, Brian Brindle wrote: > Just happened on this board on OSHPark - this from anyone have any info on > it? > > https://www.oshpark.com/profiles/Stardust > > > >
[M100] Micro-TPDD2
Just happened on this board on OSHPark - this from anyone have any info on it? https://www.oshpark.com/profiles/Stardust
Re: [M100] REX Castellated board
Hang in there Josh, I had this with one of mine. Turned out to be "solder balls" that formed from the solder paste I was using under the CPLD. I couldn't see them till I pulled the chip. I'd recommend visually inspecting everything with high magnification - use your phone or digital camera if nothing else - and then test each neighboring pin with a meter for bridges. If that's all clear test the programming headers back to the appropriate CPLD pins for continuity. As a good friend always reminds me - "success lies on the far side of failure" so fail quickly and fail often if you want to get ahead. Brian On Sun, Oct 22, 2017 at 5:01 PM, Josh Malone wrote: > Built my first functional REX on the castellated PCB. Programs and tests > okay. > > But, I've also built me second non-functional REX, too. So far I'm > 3-out-of-5 for successful builds. Not sure I'm really up to this. :( > > Maybe I can figure out what's wrong w/ this board. Impact says it > finds lots of unknown devices on the chain and barfs. Reflowed the > CPLD pins but it didn't help. Bugger. > > At least I have one functional REX for my 102, so, yay! > > -Josh > > On Fri, Oct 20, 2017 at 10:05 PM, Brian White wrote: > > That would be awesome of course! > > > > On Oct 20, 2017 12:35 PM, "Stephen Adolph" wrote: > >> > >> good to hear the castellated board is working. > >> I revised the REX PCB design to (1) remove unneeded parts (2) use ground > >> and power planes and (3) provide a pad to bridge 3.3V onto PORT_EN with > a > >> solder bridge. I don't myself plan to test the board but I can post it > for > >> others to test. > >> Steve > >> > >> On Fri, Oct 20, 2017 at 12:23 PM, Josh Malone > >> wrote: > >>> > >>> My parts should arrive tomorrow. How to take a stab at try two soon. > >>> thanks to everyone for all the help. > >>> > >>> On Oct 20, 2017 11:38 AM, "Brian Brindle" wrote: > > Reflow of the board seemed to fix it. Guess I need to play around with > my methods a little. Working as expected right now. > > On Oct 20, 2017 8:31 AM, "Brian White" wrote: > > > > Yeah that looks good. > > > > On Oct 20, 2017 6:32 AM, "Brian Brindle" wrote: > >> > >> I'm using some AM29F800BB-90EF I had. Waiting on the AM29F800BB-7EK > >> from China still. Should be here today. > >> > >> > >> On Oct 19, 2017 8:47 PM, "Brian White" wrote: > >>> > >>> What exact flash part number do you have? > >>> > >>> > >>> On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 1:22 PM, Brian Brindle > > >>> wrote: > > I have one put together that programmed up OK but am having issues > getting the REX software on it. It erases all the blocks just > fine but hangs > when re-loading to block 0. Probably something up with the flash.. > > I'll report back when I have more info. > > Brian > > > On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 7:25 AM, Stephen Adolph > wrote: > > > > Has anyone made a REX successfully with that modified PCB yet? > > I would like to know if that artwork is good or bad. > > > > ..Steve > > > >>> > >> > > >
