Re: Pentax photography of fairies.

[Treena Harp]

Wait a minute -- that was the fifties ... Wasn't that about the time they
discovered LSD???



> Did they live in West Hollywood?
>
> Regards,
> Bob...
>
> Give blood. Play hockey.
>
> From: "petit miam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>
> > I seem to remember someone in the fifties taking video
> > of fairies in their garden and no-one being able to
> > work out how they had done it. It was on TV a few
> > years ago, but I have only a vague recollection. They
> > didn't have a Pentax video camera :)
>
>
> -
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Re: K-Mount Lens Envy: Stop Wishing--Settle

[Treena Harp]

I could be wrong, but I've always felt that if one gets absolutely
everything one wants -- well, doesn't that take some of the fun out of it?
Remember Alexander the Great, who cried because there were no more lands
left for him to conquer? I don't have a whole lot of money to pursue some
things with, but I have to say I find the chase as exciting as the catch.
Life might be kind of dull otherwise. :-)

Treena the Happy Huntress



> Hi Paul,
>
> I waited, I paid, I have a great collection of SMC primes, I enjoy, I
> photograph, I am content...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Rob Studdert
> HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
> Tel +61-2-9554-4110
> Fax +61-2-9554-9259
> UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html


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Re: Re:Pentax 6x7 Ext. Tube Exp. Adjustments

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: "Robert Meier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: April 5, 2001 10:17 PM
Subject: Re:Pentax 6x7 Ext. Tube Exp. Adjustments


> I have gotten the helicoid extension tube to use with my 135mm
macro lens on
> the 6x7.   I don't have the meter prism (I use the waistlevel)
and I don't
> know how much increase to give the exposure.   Does anyone
have the table
> for this?
> Thanks, Bob

Pentax sez:
The Helicoid Extension Tube unit which fits to the inner bayonet
mount of the 6x7 camera and offers continuously variable
extension for precise control of image size. Range covered
equals that of the No.2  Auto Extension Tube at minimum
extension ant the No.3  Auto Extension Tube at maximum
extension.
Here is the exposure table for the Auto extension tube set for
the 135mm macro:
http://www.accesscomm.ca/users/wrobb/135Macro.jpg
You will have to come up with your own median values. Remember,
light fall off is an inverse square proportion to extension.
William Robb










>
>
>
>
> -- http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From
$8.99/mo! --
>
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Re: Favorite Film Roll Call

[William Robb]

shit.

- Original Message -
From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: April 6, 2001 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: Favorite Film Roll Call


> You are a glutton for punishment.
> My wife would like you, she is into leather and whips.
>
> Kodachrome 64
>
> William Robb
> - Original Message -
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: April 6, 2001 1:16 PM
> Subject: Favorite Film Roll Call
>
>
> >
> > Since I still not fullfilled my needs of punishment (I
suppose
> I'm very
> > masochist) I decide to start a third Roll Call.
> > These are the conditions:
> > 1 - You must answer off-list, right to me.
> > 2 - You must choose your favorite emulsion (35 and 120/220
> allowed)
> > 3 - You must choose ONLY ONE.
> >
> > I will post the results.
> >
> > Suicidal Albano
> >
> >


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Re: > Subject: Re: bad processing

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: "Peifer, William [OCDUS]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: April 6, 2001 9:41 AM
Subject: RE: > Subject: Re: bad processing


> Tom V. wrote:
> >> What if we shoot a color chart, and adjust the mix so
> >> that looks correct, and then contact print?
>
> And William Robb replied:
> > That would be the most accurate method.
> > William Robb
>
> Hi Bill,
>So I've
> got two questions you or one of the other list members might
have answers
> to.  First, are there any 18-color cards -- like the
Macbeth -- available at
> a price cheaper than $60?

Here is a strategy that I have used in the past. Go to your
local Wal-Mart and, in the paint department, you will find a
large rack of paint samples, in all the colours of the rainbow.
Get as many as you want. Glue them to a piece of card stock. I
would get what visually appeared to be as close to what I
considered to be the primary and secondary colours (CMY/RGB.
Also a black, white, and middle gray (take a gray card along for
this.) You might also want to include a "flesh" toned patch. It
is also desirable to have middle densities of the 6 colours.
While it is not the industry standard, it is, at least, a pretty
stable reference. In 30 years of photography and >20 years of
photofinishing I have not ever seen a Macbeth chart for real.


 Second, suppose I take a shot of such a color
> card with every roll I shoot.  Will the typical Fuji or Kodak
consumer lab
> machine process my entire roll using a single set of color
settings,
> optimized from this first negative, or will it readjust color
settings for
> each frame printed?

No, it will only print the the negative of the colour card at
the setting it uses for that scene type. Every other negative on
the roll is a different scene type, so will get it's own colour
balance.
Having said that, I also know that the filtration levels for any
particular film are absolute values for that film. What throws
this off are exposure variables, where we have to correct for
paper slope, and for film slope. Scene type also affects things,
as the machine will try to adjust the colour to what it
considers a neutral. If a scene has an exess of blue, for
example, the machine may tend to print that negative too yellow,
which is the opposite of blue. We call this colour failure.

>In other words, will having a color card on my first
> negative "help" the machine to optimize a single set of color
settings, to
> be used throughout the entire roll, or does proper setting
depend on a
> skilled machine operator (which I very likely won't find in a
consumer lab
> anyway) manually setting the machine?

If you can get an operator who is willing (good luck), you could
have him or her set up a film channel using your reference as a
standard. Stick with the same film type, and you will get
consistent results, as long as the lab holds up their end of the
stick.
Since you are making a reference standard, you will want to
include, in your control negative set, a negative that is 2
stops under exposed, one that is correctly exposed, one that is
3 stops over exposed, and one that is 5 stops over exposed.
Use the same shutter speed for each negative, and vary only the
aperture if possible. This will negate the possibility of minor
colour reciprocity failure. You will likely find that the +5
exposure will require a slower shutter speed, but you also
shouldn't be producing many negs in this density range.
What this does is to create a tool that the lab can use to set
up their machine to your camera/lens/film combination over a
fairly broad exposure range.
Tools of this sort are available commercially. Aperion makes a
kit called True-Balance®, which is a set of negatives as
described above. When I bought one about 10 years ago, I paid
just over CAN$300.00. I would not waste the money again on a
True-Balance® kit. I would just make my own.
A reference standard is, after all, only an arbitrary constant.
If anyone is interested in the Zone system of black and white, I
can tell you how to make a reference standard for the Zone
system for the price of a few sheets of B&W photo paper.
William Robb


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Re: Favorite Film Roll Call

[William Robb]

You are a glutton for punishment.
My wife would like you, she is into leather and whips.

Kodachrome 64

William Robb
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: April 6, 2001 1:16 PM
Subject: Favorite Film Roll Call


>
> Since I still not fullfilled my needs of punishment (I suppose
I'm very
> masochist) I decide to start a third Roll Call.
> These are the conditions:
> 1 - You must answer off-list, right to me.
> 2 - You must choose your favorite emulsion (35 and 120/220
allowed)
> 3 - You must choose ONLY ONE.
>
> I will post the results.
>
> Suicidal Albano
>
>
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To
unsubscribe,
> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't
forget to
> visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
>
>

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Re: ME viewfinder (was Re: Zenitar 16/2.8 Fisheye)

[William Robb]

- Original Message - 
From: "Anthony Farr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: April 6, 2001 3:01 AM
Subject: Re: ME viewfinder (was Re: Zenitar 16/2.8 Fisheye)


> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "William Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> > Show of
> > hands:  How many folks would ditch the RTF on a ZX-5n
> > (or MZ-S for that matter) for a .98x magnification
> > viewfinder?  Mine's raised.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > William in Utah.
> > 
> 
> Absolutely YES, but I suppose you already knew that.
Anthony Farr

Yup. I hate the little buggers anyway.
William Robb


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Re: ME viewfinder (was Re: Zenitar 16/2.8 Fisheye)

[Anthony Farr]

- Original Message - 
From: "William Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Show of
> hands:  How many folks would ditch the RTF on a ZX-5n
> (or MZ-S for that matter) for a .98x magnification
> viewfinder?  Mine's raised.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> William in Utah.
> 

Absolutely YES, but I suppose you already knew that.

Regards,
Anthony Farr

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Re: bad processing

[dave o'brien]

A scroll of mail from [EMAIL PROTECTED] on Fri, 6 Apr 2001
10:17:52 -0400
Read it? y
>Hell knows no fury like a bride [who thinks she has been] poorly
>photographed.

But at the same time, it's amazing what people will accept as 'quality
photographs'.

Friends of my wife showed me some of their wedding photos recently.
They "didn't need to hire a photographer since they had their own
camera".  Those 8x10s from an APS camera were very soft and fuzzy
looking.  Still, they had all the right people in them in all the
right poses and that was what they wanted.

dave
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Re: Pentax photography of fairies.

[Bob Blakely]

Did they live in West Hollywood?

Regards,
Bob...

Give blood. Play hockey.
 
From: "petit miam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> I seem to remember someone in the fifties taking video
> of fairies in their garden and no-one being able to
> work out how they had done it. It was on TV a few
> years ago, but I have only a vague recollection. They
> didn't have a Pentax video camera :)


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Re: K-Mount Lens Envy: Stop Wishing--Settle

[Rob Studdert]

On 6 Apr 2001, at 12:28, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> OK, guys, I've been waiting a LONG time to write this message. I will do so now,
> because I have just completed my collection of primes. And I couldn't have done
> it without abandoning three notions:
> 
> 1. Pentax-brand or nothing.
> 
> 2. A* or nothing.
> 
> 3. fastest f/stop or nothing.
> 
> Why WAIT for an affordable...
> 
> Why WAIT for an elusive SMC... 
> 
> Why WAIT years for an SMC... 
> 
> Why WAIT YEARS for that elusive SMC...
> 
> Do you REALLY need that...
> 
> Why WAIT FOREVER for any...
> 
> Why WAIT for a nearly-impossible-to-find...
> 
> Why WAIT for an impossible-to-find...
> 
> Why WAIT for an affordable..
> 
> PS: PLEASE don't include this entire message in your responses!

Hi Paul,

I waited, I paid, I have a great collection of SMC primes, I enjoy, I 
photograph, I am content...

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
Fax +61-2-9554-9259
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: > Subject: Re: bad processing

[Rob Studdert]

On 6 Apr 2001, at 10:33, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> He studied the prints, then examined the negatives. "There was nothing
> wrong with the scans," he explained. "Look at your negatives. That's how
> bad the color was, because of your lengthy exposures. (Typically, my
> exposures were 8 to 29 seconds.) Your prints look so good because we took
> the trouble to correct them."

Hi Paul,

Your lab guy (or his digital equipment) is useless (on the digital side), I say 
this as I have never had a neg scan that I couldn't match to a print, in fact I 
would suggest that there is more correction available on the digital side (if 
the scan is properly executed of course).

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
Fax +61-2-9554-9259
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: OT: Theater photo & film choice (Brian's ramblings)

[Rob Studdert]

On 6 Apr 2001, at 9:55, Brian wrote:

> Hmm film for Theater (actually I've been shooting more
> dance recently than anything else...)
> 
> Lately for color I have been using Fuji NHGII-800, pushed
> either 1 or 2 stops (depending on the ambient light available -
> I never use flash) and unfiltered.  I have been doing my
> color printing myself lately, up to 11 x 14 in the darkroom
> yeilds some excellent results.  The grain is apparent when
> this film is pushed that far, but it hasn't been overly mushy 
> and the clients really like the work.  It does take some time 
> to get the filtration right though, to fully correct tungsten light
> for color film is not possible IMO, but a "warmer" tone I find
> is more pleasing to my eyes than something that has been
> too heavily corrected.

Hi Brian,

Interesting, how is the contrast when the NHGII-800 is pushed? How is the 
shadow detail? Are you shooting spotlit performers or flood lit stages? I love 
this film for compressing contrast but If I want punch I usually use Portra 800 
these days.

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
Fax +61-2-9554-9259
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: Subject: Re: Ebay Auction... - private (very OT!)

[aimcompute]

You know I have friend that's South African.  When ever I refer to him as
Australian, he gets insulted for some reason. :-)

Tom

- Original Message -
From: "Peter Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 5:14 PM
Subject: RE: Subject: Re: Ebay Auction... - private (very OT!)


> That's propagandised  :)
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aimcompute
> > Sent: 06 April 2001 23:04
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Ebay Auction... - private (very OT!)
> >
> >
> > You're truly correct.  We're just a bunch of uneducated, overweight,
> > propagandized, violent slobs over here in "The States".   We only eat
fast
> > food and forget to wash our hands after going to the lav.  :-)
> >
> > Tom C.
> >
> >
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "petit miam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 3:15 PM
> > Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Ebay Auction... - private (very OT!)
> >
> >
> > > Well, at least Australians spell "colour" and "plough"
> > > correctly. Not any of this "color" and "plow" rubbish.
> > > And the way you say "asthma", you should spell it
> > > "azma".
> > > Sorry, I know you can't help it :)
> > >
> > > > We just thought you were typing Australian, :-)
> > >
> > >
> > > __
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> > > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> > > -
> > > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> > > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
> > > visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
> > >
> >
> > -
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> > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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> >
> >
>
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RE: K-Mount Lens Envy: Stop Wishing--Settle

[Peter Smith]

OK none of your message in my response but here it is:

Paul,  from the tone of your post I don't think you have actually stopped
waiting or completed anything.  You still have an enormous wish list.

Just the way I read it :).  You are not alone, I have a bag full of
compromise purchases too.  The thing is you've just given me lots of
pointers to gaps in my list.  Damn!!!

Peter



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Re: pentax-discuss-digest V1 #556

[Camdir]

In a message dated 06/04/01 22:50:02 GMT Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< Hey guys,
 
I just ordered my new LX this morning from a camera store across the
 pond . . . I'm unfamiliar with the shipping company they are using
 though, and want to be able to use the tracking number they provided . .
 . does anyone know of contact info (web or phone) for "Initial city
 link"? >>
Bill. I can help, but am somewhat perplexed. This courier company does not 
appear to ship outside UK ??? http://www.city-link.co.uk/">Initial 
City Link 

Kind regards from sunny Brighton

Peter
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RE: Subject: e-bay words (very OT!)

[Peter Smith]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] asks:

>why don't you pronounce "plough" pluff?

To quote a song I say:

You say "tomato" and we say "tomato"

You say "potato" and we say "potato"

Tomato Tomato Potato Potato

I'm sorry I dont see the problem here (_8(|) DOH!!

Peter

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Pentax USA does it again!

[William Kane]

Hey guys,

   Earlier this week, I called the Pentax Instruction Manual Line and
requested an LX operating manual . . . guess what arrived in my mailbox
today?  Yup, an LX operating manual, god I love this companies response
time.

   For those interested I also recieved from them a complete list of the
Instuction Books that are available from them.  I'll be scanning this in
the next day or two, and prepare a PDF file and a temporary link for
it.  Does anyone want to put up some webspace for this?  I don't really
have the space for it on my personal servers right now . . . I don't
think the file should be too big though.  I know one of us has some
Pentax PDF Instruction Manuals online, with the goal to get most of them
up there . . . maybe that person can contact me?

Thanks for your time guys,
Illinois Bill

P.S.
Now desperatly awaiting my LX
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RE: Subject: Re: Ebay Auction... - private (very OT!)

[Peter Smith]

That's propagandised  :)

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aimcompute
> Sent: 06 April 2001 23:04
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Ebay Auction... - private (very OT!)
>
>
> You're truly correct.  We're just a bunch of uneducated, overweight,
> propagandized, violent slobs over here in "The States".   We only eat fast
> food and forget to wash our hands after going to the lav.  :-)
>
> Tom C.
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "petit miam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 3:15 PM
> Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Ebay Auction... - private (very OT!)
>
>
> > Well, at least Australians spell "colour" and "plough"
> > correctly. Not any of this "color" and "plow" rubbish.
> > And the way you say "asthma", you should spell it
> > "azma".
> > Sorry, I know you can't help it :)
> >
> > > We just thought you were typing Australian, :-)
> >
> >
> > __
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> > -
> > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
> > visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
> >
>
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>

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Re: Nikon Hoods for Pentax Lenses

[Shel Belinkoff]

I like to think of a ~photographer~ as something a bit more than one
who takes pictures.  I'm not sure where that line might be, but
given that there are those with cameras who know nothing more about
the picture ~taking~ process than point and shoot, and who know even
less than that about the picture ~making~ process, there is, IMO, a
difference such as one might find between, perhaps, a mechanic and
one who tinkers on his own cars by changing oil and giving the
engine a simple tune up.

A friend recently went to Africa and took many pictures of animals
and trees silhouetted against the sunset.  He used his ME S on auto
mode.  He was happy with his pictures, and some were really quite
nice.  However, based on his results, I'd not call him a
~photographer~ as his results were not a result of planning or even
understanding, but a result of just the way the meter happened to
read.
-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
There are no rules for good photographs, 
there are only good photographs.

"Paris, Leonard" wrote:
> 
> But that assumes that a ~photographer~ is something other than the
> dictionary definition describes. Remember about a month ago when I was
> severely beaten about the head and shoulders here on the PDML for even
> suggesting that a ~photographer~ was anything more than anyone that takes
> pictures?  Huh?  Remember?
> 
> Of course, now that it's not me saying it, who'll be willing to brand you as
> an elitist egomaniac for inferring the same thing?  Certainly not me,
> because I still believe there's a lot of difference between ~photographers~
> and folks that take pictures. :-)  And, we ~are~ entitled to our opinions,
> aren't we?
> 
> Besides, my Pentax work wonderfully with Nikon lens hoods, filters,
> polarizers, etc.
> 
> Len
> ---
> 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Shel Belinkoff [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 9:53 AM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Nikon Hoods for Pentax Lenses
> >
> >
> > Ahh ... but a ~photographer~ uses whatever works ;-)
> >
> > "Paris, Leonard" wrote:
> > >
> > > And I thought Pentax users wouldn't be
> > > caught dead using Nikon accessories
> > > on their Pentax cameras and lenses. ;-)
> >
> > --
> > Shel Belinkoff
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Reciprocity Performance tests for long exposure

[Paul . Stregevsky]

I find his findings to be bad news, Robert. The film he recommends is the
film I used. So there appears to be no room for improvement. Hard to
believe. I wonder why he didn't compare Reala 100? I wonder how the new
Superia 100 and 200 with the 4th emulsion layer would fare? How are they
different from Reala 100, anyway? More contrast? More saturation?

Hmmm.. I should check the rear filter in my Zenitar. I could swear it's the
UV (Skylight?), not one of the colored filters. But given my disappointing
results, it's worth a check.

--

Robert Gillespie ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) wrote:

I found this informative site a while back, it has tests by an
astrophotographer
of slide & print film. The main thing he is testing for is colour balance
during long exposure &
reciprocity failure.


Paul Franklin Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: (703) 834-4648

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Re:OT Pentax photography of fairies.

[LEDMRVM]

In a message dated 4/6/2001 4:11:20 PM US Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> I seem to remember someone in the fifties taking video
>  of fairies in their garden and no-one being able to
>  work out how they had done it. It was on TV a few
>  years ago, but I have only a vague recollection. They
>  didn't have a Pentax video camera :)
>  
>  PS Pentax Photography.
> 

My memory is as vague as yours but there was a book written by a man who 
investigated and exposed frauds such as this one. He explained the "fairy 
fraud" very clearly. Anyone remember who he was?
Ed M.
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Re: Subject: e-bay words (very OT!)

[LEDMRVM]

In a message dated 4/6/2001 4:18:08 PM US Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> Well, at least Australians spell "colour" and "plough"
>  correctly. Not any of this "color" and "plow" rubbish.
>  And the way you say "asthma", you should spell it
>  "azma".
>  Sorry, I know you can't help it :)
>  
>  > We just thought you were typing Australian, :-)
>  
>  

Colour and azma I can live with, but why don't you pronounce "plough" pluff?
Ed
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Re: Error in Lens Resolution Tests!

[Chris Brogden]

On Fri, 6 Apr 2001, Bojidar Dimitrov wrote:

> Hi Yoshihiko,
> 
> I am sorry to hear about the probolem with your eyes!  Is it appropriate to
> tell us a bit more?  In which way are the resolution results affected?

Sorry, Boz, that wasn't Yoshihiko at all.  Mea culpa.  :)

chris

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Re: Error in Lens Resolution Tests!

[Lasse Karlsson]

Boz,

I think you ought to check the date of Yoshihiko's message...
:)

Lasse, (who did and smiled).

Boz wrote:
> Recently Yoshihiko Takinami wrote:
> > 
> > Oops!  I am very sorry.  I found out from my doctor that I have a rare eye
> > condition that throws my vision off by an infinitesimal amount.  So all
> > of my lens tests are wrong and should be ignored.  Sorry for any problems.
> > I hope no one ever read them.
> 
> Hi Yoshihiko,
> 
> I am sorry to hear about the probolem with your eyes!  Is it appropriate to
> tell us a bit more?  In which way are the resolution results affected?
> 
> My first take on this problem is that as long as the results are
> CONSISTENTLY wrong, they are CORRECT.  In other words, we are not
> interested in absolute results but in the RELATIVE resolution of one lens
> compared to another.  With that in mind, I would encourage you to not give
> up on lens testing.
> 
> Best wishes,
> Boz
> 
> PS: I am writing from home and have not yet read my e-mail at work.

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Re: K-Mount Lens Envy: Stop Wishing--Settle

[Arnold Stark]

Hi Paul,

In what you write I hear the voice of reason, but

> And I couldn't have done it without abandoning three notions:
> 1. Pentax-brand or nothing.

... to this I stick (most of the time)...

> 15mm: Why WAIT for an affordable SMC 15/3.5K or KA, when I can settle for a
> Tamron SP 17/3.5...or no superwide at all?

Well, one can always get some lenses that are affordable and available at the
time, so that one has lenses that one can use, but one can still WAIT patiently
for the right opportunity and the right time to get the dream lenses (to
replace the other ones)...

> and get back to supporting your families.

Families are more important then lenses at any rate. But men need toys and
tools, too...

Arnold

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Re: Subject: Re: Ebay Auction... - private (very OT!)

[aimcompute]

You're truly correct.  We're just a bunch of uneducated, overweight,
propagandized, violent slobs over here in "The States".   We only eat fast
food and forget to wash our hands after going to the lav.  :-)

Tom C.


- Original Message -
From: "petit miam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Ebay Auction... - private (very OT!)


> Well, at least Australians spell "colour" and "plough"
> correctly. Not any of this "color" and "plow" rubbish.
> And the way you say "asthma", you should spell it
> "azma".
> Sorry, I know you can't help it :)
>
> > We just thought you were typing Australian, :-)
>
>
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Re: Vivitar Series 1 28mm/f2

[petit miam]

But they don't live in Australia, if you have been
reading this thread. That is the whole problem. So
they should have kept their big "mouth" out of an Ebay
Australia site, because they weren't even willing to
ship to Australia. That is just plain mean and nasty.

Jody.

> You are perhaps fortunate that the seller lives in
> Australia, but that's a
> big place.
> James


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RE: No Sale, Bill...

[Frits J. Wüthrich]

This is my favourite: everything you say must be true, but not everything
the is true must be said.

Frits
> I humbly second the motion.
>
> Tom C.
>
> Doug wrote:
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > > Not everything thought has to be spoken.
> > > Not everything spoken has to be written down.
> > > Not everything written down has to be published.
> > > Not everything published has to be read.
> >
> > That one goes into the quotation archives.  One of my faults has always
> > been not putting a filter between my brain and my mouth. :-)
> >
> > TTYL, DougF

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Re: Subject: Re: Ebay Auction... - private (very OT!)

[Paul Jones]

Plow :) i never realised americans spelt it like this :)


- Original Message - 
From: "petit miam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Ebay Auction... - private (very OT!)


> Well, at least Australians spell "colour" and "plough"
> correctly. Not any of this "color" and "plow" rubbish.
> And the way you say "asthma", you should spell it
> "azma".
> Sorry, I know you can't help it :)
> 
> > We just thought you were typing Australian, :-)
> 
> 
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> 
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Re: Camera group test

[Paul Jones]

The MZ3 is identical to the MZ5n, except for the a faster shutter speed and
flash synch


- Original Message -
From: "Todd Stanley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: Camera group test


> At 02:45 PM 4/6/01 +0100, you wrote:
> >Hi,
> >
> >Just a report about a test of the MZ-3, Nikon F80 and the EOS
> >30.  Denominations may be different where you live.  This test
> >was in the UK, in Amateur Photographer magazine.
> >
> >No prizes for guessing which camera came last, because of
> >"...its more limited (sic) AF sensors and a more limited choice
> >of how they can be used."
> >
> >Canon won (most advertising?) and the F80 scored because of the
> >grid screen overlay and a cable release socket.
> >
> >A few statements about the MZ-3 puzzled me.  I am not familiar
> >with this camera, but have followed threads in PDML and read
> >about it elsewhere.  For example "The Pentax hasa central Af
> >point that expands slightly across the screen.but you can
> >use the centre spot by itself" In another pert, the tester seems
> >to be of the opinion that aperture can _only_ be selected with
> >the aperture ring, but then goes on to say "...the Pentax...uses
> >a separate A setting".  I always assumed that aperture was
> >selectable from other controls when the aperture ring was in the
> >A position.  Another statement which I find odd is that "when
> >using a hotshoe adaptor..you may only use the X
> >setting..thus you are stuck with 1/125sec and no slow sync."
> >
> >Anyone have any observations about these?
> >
>
> The MZ-3 has a central AF sensor, and I think 2 more?  You can select the
> center only, or let the camera choose between them.
>
> The tester is right about the aperture ring, if you want to set it
manually
> you have to use it.  Putting the aperture ring into the A setting the
> camera automatically chooses the aperture.  This is different from the
MZ-7
> or PZ-1p where you have a choice of manually selecting an aperture, you
can
> either turn the ring or choose from the body.
>
> The statement of only being able to sync at 1/125 is a blatant lie.  You
> can sync at 1/125 or any slower speed.  If the shutter dial is in A, it
> will choose 1/focal length for any F or FA lens, 1/125 for all others
where
> it doesn't know the focal length.  If you select a speed manually, it will
> use that speed, evem B - unless you choose a speed over 1/125 then the
> camera will override you and choose 1/125.
>
> >The unassisted exposures from the MZ-3 were definitely the
> >lightest of the three, but where a blip of fill-in flash was
> >used indoors (a cathedral) to lighten foreground objects, the
> >other two had compensated by reducing the total exposure,
> >resulting in very dark pictures as the flash was insufficient to
> >properly light any of the scene.  "...Some underexposure.."
> >meaning a view of a stained glass window and its reflection off
> >the floor, with everything else black.  I suppose we have to
> >make some allowance for magazine reproduction.
> >
> >For me, this would be a major failing which would have caused me
> >to either send the product back as defective or relegate it to
> >last in the test.
>
> I think the same way.  Basically don't pay any attention to magazine
tests,
> because they are full of crap.
>
> >
> >The reason given for the Canon winning, given that "The
> >exposures are no better than those of the Nikon and Pentax.."
> >was build quality and handling.  Not my perception when handling
> >this model, but it is the heaviest of the three, by quite a
> >margin.  Guess which is the lightest?  By about 25%.  Hard
> >to be precise, as it is not clear whether lenses are included,
> >but batteries definitely are not for the MZ-3.
>
> I have always thought Canons were pretty cheesy build myself.  On the
> otherhand, the whole MZ line feels solid, even the MZ-M.
>
> >
> >The only interesting fact for me was that the pentamirror of the
> >MZ-3 is "moulded".
>
> I thought MZ-3 has a pentaprism like the MZ-5n?
>
> Todd
>
>
> >
> >mike
> >-
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RE: Free camera for me.

[petit miam]

Does it wind the film on as well? How does that "flash
attachment area" work? I notice the flash isn't free.
Hehehe.

Jody.

http://www2.pulsetv.com/st/prodinfo.asp?number=962Y


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Re: Error in Lens Resolution Tests!

[Bojidar Dimitrov]

Recently Yoshihiko Takinami wrote:
> 
> Oops!  I am very sorry.  I found out from my doctor that I have a rare eye
> condition that throws my vision off by an infinitesimal amount.  So all
> of my lens tests are wrong and should be ignored.  Sorry for any problems.
> I hope no one ever read them.

Hi Yoshihiko,

I am sorry to hear about the probolem with your eyes!  Is it appropriate to
tell us a bit more?  In which way are the resolution results affected?

My first take on this problem is that as long as the results are
CONSISTENTLY wrong, they are CORRECT.  In other words, we are not
interested in absolute results but in the RELATIVE resolution of one lens
compared to another.  With that in mind, I would encourage you to not give
up on lens testing.

Best wishes,
Boz

PS: I am writing from home and have not yet read my e-mail at work.

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Re: > Subject: Re: bad processing

[petit miam]

I live in a "city" of c.80,000 people. I am lucky to
have a good lab to go to. They do them on site, and
will reprint if I'm not happy. I think the photos look
pretty good. 

They all know me by name now. Also they have a points
system where you get points for each purchase. I
forget what you get for redeeming them.

I get a set of 28 matt 4"x6" photos for about NZ$18.95
(roughly US$7.50) , or cheaper if I prepay. I don't
think this is too bad. Gloss is of course much
cheaper, but I think it looks tacky.

Jody.


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Re: Pentax photography of fairies.

[petit miam]

I seem to remember someone in the fifties taking video
of fairies in their garden and no-one being able to
work out how they had done it. It was on TV a few
years ago, but I have only a vague recollection. They
didn't have a Pentax video camera :)

PS Pentax Photography.

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Re: Subject: Re: Ebay Auction... - private (very OT!)

[petit miam]

Well, at least Australians spell "colour" and "plough"
correctly. Not any of this "color" and "plow" rubbish.
And the way you say "asthma", you should spell it
"azma".
Sorry, I know you can't help it :)

> We just thought you were typing Australian, :-)


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RE: Free camera for me.

[Frits J. Wüthrich]

http://www2.pulsetv.com/st/prodinfo.asp?number=962Y

With money back guarantee. That is nice for a free camera.

Frits
> 
> petit miam wrote:
> 
> > Maybe I can give it to one of my
> > brothers. I think my younger brother is using my old
> > Hanimex dual-lens (wide-angle and telephoto). 
> 
> The Hanimex is probably better.  Don't punish your brother with the
> Reader's Digest camera!   
> 
> -Aaron

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Re: Subjective Lens Comparison - SMC-A 50mm vs Rikenon 55mm

[Todd Stanley]

I think this inconsistancy might have to do with the PZ-1p's metering
compatibility with A lenses.  I think it just affects Matrix metering so
turn it off and see what you get.  

BTW, comparing my Sears F1.7 (same as Ricoh), and Pentax A F1.4 and M F2,
the Sears is about 1/2 stop slower on both the ZX-M and a Ricoh body.  The
ME doesn't show half stops so I can't tell if it's present there.  I have
thought this is either because the Ricoh engineers were a tad optomistic,
or maybe just more light gets through because of the SMC on the Pentax glass.

Todd

>
>One interesting by product of this test was the observation of metering 
>differences between the Rikenon and the SMC-A. Basically, the Pentax lens 
>seemed to be a little less than a half stop faster, in terms of shutter 
>speed, at equivalent aperture settings.  So, with both set to f8 the 
>Rikenon might meter at 1/90 while the SMC-A metered at 1/125.  This 
>prompted me to compare all of my lenses that cover the 50mm range. To my 
>surprise, my three Ricoh 50mm's (1.2, 1.4, and 1.7) showed this speed 
>discrepancy on Pentax bodies.  However, on a Ricoh body they metered 
>identically to the Pentax 50mm's.  This suggests a slight (repeat: slight) 
>incompatibility between Ricoh lenses and Pentax bodies. It's hard to tell 
>how far off they are - certainly no more than a half stop.  But, the net 
>result is that wide open, the SMC-A 50mm f1.4 and Rikenon 55mm f1.2 metered 
>identically in most situations --  undermining the advantage of the 
>'faster' Rikenon 55mm f1.2!
>

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Re: Pentax shutter noise?

[petit miam]

> >Or when you forget to wind on your manual camera. I
> know this from >experience.
> 
> > > Are there any really silent Pentaxes?
> 
> When this happens to me, I alway hear "Bugger,
> bugger, bugger".
> 
> Are you telling me this is _not_ the camera?

Erm, no.

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Vs: Favorite Lens Roll Call Results UPDATE 7

[Raimo Korhonen]

Lots of deviation - no real "pet" lens in this group.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen

-Alkuperäinen viesti-
Lähettäjä: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Päivä: 06. huhtikuuta 2001 21:17
Aihe: Favorite Lens Roll Call Results UPDATE 7


>These are the conditions:
>1 - You must answer off-list exclusively. On-list votes will not be included.
>2 - You must choose Your Favorite Pentax Lens. ONLY ONE. Yes, ONLY ONE.
>3 - It must be original, no third-party allowed.
>4 - Primes and zooms.
>5 - You must specify: Tak, Super Tak, SMC Tak, K, M, A, F, FA, etc.
>6 - You must have personal experience with it, no matter if you have it, had it,
>lost it, sold it, borrowed it, but you must have used it. If not it would be a
>wish list.
>
>First Place (4 votes): FA* 24 2
>
>
>Members: 80
>
>K 15 3.5 (1)
>A 15 3.5 (1)
>A 20 2.8 (1)
>K 24 2.8 (3)
>A 24 2.8 (1)
>FA* 24 2 (4)
>M 28 2.8 (1)
>A 28 2 (1)
>K 28 3.5 Shift (1)
>FA 35 2 (1)
>
>M 40 2.8 (3)
>FA 43 1.9 Limited (1)
>K 50 1.2 (2)
>M 50 1.4 (3)
>M 50 1.7 (2)
>M 50 4 Macro (1)
>A 50 1.4 (3)
>FA 50 1.4 (2)
>FA 50 1.7 (1)
>SMC Tak 50 1.4 (1)
>SMC Tak 55 1.8 (2)
>K 55 1.8 (1)
>
>FA 77 1.8 Limited (2)
>SMC Tak 85 1.8 (1)
>K 85 1.8 (1)
>M 85 2 (1)
>A* 85 1.4 (2)
>FA* 85 1.4 (2)
>M 100 4 Macro (1)
>M 100 4 Dental Macro (1)
>A 100 2.8 (1)
>A 100 2.8 Macro (1)
>FA 100 2.8 Macro (3)
>K 105 2.8 (2)
>A 135 2.8 (1)
>Tak 200 3.5 Preset (1)
>A* 200 2.8 (1)
>A* 200 4 Macro (2)
>A* 300 2.8 (1)
>F* 300 4.5 (2)
>FA* 400 5.6 (1)
>
>FA 20-35 4 (3)
>FA 24-90 3.5-4.5 (1)
>F 35-70 3.5-4.5 Macro (1)
>A 35-105 3.5 (2)
>K 45-125 4 (1)
>M 75-150 4 (2)
>A 70-210 4 (1)
>A 80-200 4.7-5.6 (1)
>FA* 80-200 2.8 (1)
>
>6x7 SMC 45 4 (1)
>6x7 SMC Tak 55 3.5 (1)
>6x7 SMC 55 4 (1)
>
>


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Help?

[William Kane]

Hey guys,

   I just ordered my new LX this morning from a camera store across the
pond . . . I'm unfamiliar with the shipping company they are using
though, and want to be able to use the tracking number they provided . .
. does anyone know of contact info (web or phone) for "Initial city
link"?

Thanks,
Illinois Bill
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Reciprocity Performance tests for long exposure

[rob]

Hi Paul et al,


I found this informative site a while back, it has tests by an astrophotographer
of slide & print film.

The main thing he is testing for is colour balance during long exposure &
reciprocity failure.


He reaches some interesting conclusions 


Enjoy,

Rob
Robert Gillespie


http://www.connecti.com/~rreeves/filmtest.htm




-Original Message-

Paukl wrote..

Next time I do an interior shoot, I'll use professional film that has great
reciprocity performance. The dealer suggested Reala 100. Anyone else care
to weigh in with an opinion?



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Re: Theater photo & film choice

[rob]

Hi Flavio,

I searched the internet for this subject the year before last,
I ended up phoning a guy who shoots theatre publicity shots in
New York, (can't remember his name!), to confirm findings.

He suggested Kodak 320T pushed to 640 or 800.


Unfortunatley my theatre photo call never came off so the film 
stayed in the fridge until December last year.  I finally used
a few rolls at the Millenium Dome in London.  I was presently
surprised at the results, it might be worth a try to see what
you think.


There was an article in the UK's Amateur Photographer a few years
ago but they only suggested film speeds and the fact that stage
lighting is often coloured for special effects so a photo call
session is the best time to get "natural" skin colours.



Regards

Rob
Robert Gillespie



-Original Message-

Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 11:46:53 +0200
From: Flavio Minelli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: OT: Theater photo & film choice

Hi all.

I'm reading on a new italian photo mag that Fuji finally released a new
Superia 1600 4-layers film. It's branded as consumer film, did anybody
got to test it? No data sheet available as yet on Fuji's site.

Others options are Supra or Superia 800 which I'd possibly try to push.
I'd like to stir a bit more argument about the unpushability of negative
film. If this is true why do film producers insist in giving pushing
info in their documentation? Come on, Sask. Bill, get eloquent ;-).

The last option is Kodak RG 1000. I used this in my last venture in this
field with good results. The promo stuff from Kodak says although the
film is for daylight it can be used with other kinds of lighting without
need of filters.
Maybe this is true for ALL negative films.

I already got some useful advice from knowledgeable people but I'd like
to have some more opinions, especially from those who did or do theater
photo (Brian?).

Thanks, Flavio



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Favorite Film Roll Call

[Albano_Garcia]

Since I still not fullfilled my needs of punishment (I suppose I'm very
masochist) I decide to start a third Roll Call.
These are the conditions:
1 - You must answer off-list, right to me.
2 - You must choose your favorite emulsion (35 and 120/220 allowed)
3 - You must choose ONLY ONE.

I will post the results.

Suicidal Albano


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RE: Vivitar Series 1 28mm/f2

[Peter Smith]

Paul Stregevsky asked:

>The 70-210 f/3.5  that used 67mm filter was the earlier version, and was
>made by Kiron, starting in 1982. The 70-210 f/3.5 that used 62mm filters
>was the later version and was made by Tokina, starting in 1974. Which
>version poses the problem?

Paul

I can only speak for the one I own with the problem.

It is a 70-210 f/3.5 with a 67mm filter ring

Peter.


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Bodies Roll Call Results UPDATE 82

[Albano_Garcia]

Please send the messages to me directly, to not disturb other members, thanks.
Also, I've not included 110 and digital cameras, just because I started this
way, and I didn't want to change in the middle of the way.
Also, if you already submited and want to add new items, please put clearly in
your message: this is not my first submission, so I don't put you twice in the
total answers.
Thanks to all contributors.



TOTAL ANSWERS: 364 members

MANUAL FOCUS:

Screw Mount:

- Asahiflex IIa3
- Asahiflex IIb2
- Asahi Pentax (AP)3
- K2
- SL...8
- SV...9
- S1a.10
- S2...1
- S3...3
- SP500...10
- SP1000..10
- Spotmatic...32
- Spotmatic II13
- Spotmatic IIa1
- Spotmatic SP23
- Spotmatic SP II..7
- Spotmatic F.33
- Spotmatic F MD...2
- Spotmatic MD.3
- ES..14
- ES II...20
- ElectroSpotmatic.3
- H1...2
- H1a..5
- H2...4
- H3...4
- H3v..5

Bayonette:

- KM14
- KX37
- KX MD..1
- K228
- K2 DMD.8
- K1000.71
- K1000 SE...9
- MX...115
- ME36
- ME SE..1
- ME Super.110
- ME Super SE4
- MV.6
- MG12
- LX...122
- Super Program.65
- Super A...39
- Program Plus..15
- Program A.10
- A3000..3
- A3.2
- A3(date)...1
- P3.6
- P3n7
- P308
- P30n...1
- P30t..11
- P5.6
- P502
- ZX M..18
- MZ M...9

AUTOFOCUS:

- ME F..11
- SF 1...6
- SFX3
- SF 1n..6
- SFXn...9
- SF 7...2
- SF 10..6
- PZ 1..18
- PZ 1 SE1
- Z123
- PZ 1p.65
- Z1p...39
- PZ 10..5
- Z 10...2
- PZ 20.10
- Z 20...4
- Z 50p..1
- PZ 70..6
- Z 70...2
- Z5.1
- MZ 3..16
- ZX 5...9
- MZ 5..12
- ZX 5n.48
- MZ 5n.34
- ZX 7...9
- MZ 7...6
- ZX 10..9
- MZ 10.12
- ZX 30..6
- MZ 30..1
- ZX 50..6
- MZ 50..7


MEDIUM FORMAT:

- 64517
- 645n3
- 6x712
- 67..9
- 67 II...6




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Re: Subjective Lens Comparison - SMC-A 50mm vs Rikenon 55mm

[Paul . Stregevsky]

Mark,

I followed your personal lead to the Czech site advertising the Rikenon
55/1.2K, but they never replied. That makes THREE attempts to order this
lens from sites that claimed to have it--first from Italy (to whom I had
inquired in my best Alta Vista Italian), next from the Czech Republic, and
finally from Canada. NOT ONE of the stores replied to my email! This is the
ONLY lens for which the dealer did not respond ... except for an inquiry to
an Argentinian store (in Spanish)  that had [mis]advertised a Takumar
55/1.2 in screwmount!

Is anyone aware of some world conspiracy to keep me from owning a 55/1.2???


Mark Cassino wrote:
especially considering that used A lenses go for about $100 vs $150 for the
Rikenons.
- - - - - - - - -

Paul Franklin Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: (703) 834-4648


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Re: Vivitar Series 1 28mm/f2

[Paul . Stregevsky]

HOW embarrassing! To set the record straight: The Kiron used 67m filters
and was introduced in 1974.

I wrote:

The 70-210 f/3.5  that used 67mm filter was the earlier version, and was
made by Kiron, starting in 1982. The 70-210 f/3.5 that used 62mm filters
was the later version and was made by Tokina, starting in 1974.

Paul Franklin Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: (703) 834-4648


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Re: Vivitar Series 1 28mm/f2

[Paul . Stregevsky]

Darren,

I have three Series 1s and am itching to buy an MZ-M. Are you saying the
problem is found onthe MZ-M?

Also: Two of my Series 1s (135/2.3 and 200/3) are screwmounts on which I
use a Pentax-brand screwmount-to-K-mount adapter. If their K-mount versions
exhibited this problem, will the problem affect the screwmount-designed,
adapter-fitted lenses, as well?


Darren  Sutherland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Incidently, this is facility for the "power-zoom" contacts.  It exists on
all Pentax AF bodies from the PZ series to current...even if it doesn't
actually have the contacts (as on the MZ-7, 30, 50 etc.).  The SF series of
cameras did not have this little "box" that gets in the way.  This problem
should not occur on any manual focus camera previous to the MZ-M, as there
should not be anything to get in the way.

Paul Franklin Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: (703) 834-4648


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Re: Nikon Hoods for Pentax Lenses

[Shel Belinkoff]

Ahh ... but a ~photographer~ uses whatever works ;-)

"Paris, Leonard" wrote:
> 
> And I thought Pentax users wouldn't be 
> caught dead using Nikon accessories
> on their Pentax cameras and lenses. ;-)

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
There are no rules for good photographs, 
there are only good photographs.
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Re: Subject: Re: Kodak T400CN

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: "Tanya & Russell Mayer"
Subject: Subject: Re: Kodak T400CN


> The only b&w I have ever shot has been c41 films, and
primarily, Kodak
> T400CN.  I really like this film however sometimes the "sepia"
toning that
> it gives can be a leaning a little too much toward the red
side of things.
> (That could just be my crappy lab though).  On the other hand,
stay away
> from the Kodak "Select Series" B&W (also c41 film).  The labs
hate to
> process it and say that they can't get an accurate colour
balance.
> Everytime I have used this film, I get the roll back with some
shots looking
> like true b&w, others sepia, and some even with green and blue
tinges, it
> can be extremely annoying, but I guess you could use it to
your benefit
> creatively as well

Kodak Select is optimized to print on colour paper, while CN is
optimized for B&W paper. Tanya, you are describing an exposure
slope problem within your photo lab. It sounds to me that they
aren't working very hard at colour balancing their machine.
We get excellent results from both Select and CN. The C-41 B&W
films that give us problems are Konica (not quite enough base
density for the scanner, in actuality this is a machine problem,
not a film problem) and Ilford XP-2 (very soft emulsion, no
colour mask)
William Robb


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Re: bad processing

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: <

Subject: RE: bad processing


> Hell knows no fury like a bride [who thinks she has been]
poorly
> photographed.

Her mother will surely be worse
William Robb


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Re: Favorite Lens Roll Call Results UPDATE 4

[Paul . Stregevsky]

I wonder how it stacks up against the 28/3.5K. Anyone care to donate
(lend?) an FA 24/2 to Daphne so she can tell us? :)

"Rob Studdert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Although I don't own an FA 24f2 I can fully
understand why it is heading the list at the moment.


Paul Franklin Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: (703) 834-4648

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Re: Vivitar Series 1 28mm/f2

[Paul . Stregevsky]

1. The 70-210 f/3.5  that used 67mm filter was the earlier version, and was
made by Kiron, starting in 1982. The 70-210 f/3.5 that used 62mm filters
was the later version and was made by Tokina, starting in 1974. Which
version poses the problem?

There were two later Series 1 70-210s

The f/2.8-3.5 model, introduced in 1984, was made by Komine Ltd. of Japan
and used 62mm filters.

The f/2.8-4.0 model, introduced in 1986, used 58mm filters. I don't know
who made it.

Can anyone report whether either of the latter two versions exhibit this
problem?

2. The Vivitar 28/2 Close Focus (55 filters) was not a Series 1; only the
28/1.9 (58 mm filter) was a Series 1. But reportedly the 28/2 CF is nearly
as good.


Tom Ivar Helbekkmo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

"Peter Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

> There is a large black ridge around the diaphragm control lever on
> the back of the [Vivitar Series 1 70-210] that is much bigger on my
> Series 1 than on other K mounts I own.

They must have built more than one version of the mount: my S1 70-210
doesn't have the ridge at all.  Perhaps it's a later version, after
they discovered the problem with their oversized one?  It's only there
to protect the diaphragm coupling, anyway...


Paul Franklin Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: (703) 834-4648


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RE: bad processing

[Paul . Stregevsky]

Hell knows no fury like a bride [who thinks she has been] poorly
photographed.
--

Jerry in Houston wrote:
"What kind of insurance can you get against a PO'd bridenone that I
know
of!  8-)

Paul Franklin Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
W: (703) 834-4648


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Re: Kodak T400CN

[Albano_Garcia]

My experiences with this film are very good. Excellent when printed in real B
and W paper. Acceptable to very good when printed in color paper.
But now I use real B and W and get it printed in color paper in my trusty
minilab. My lab guy does a great job printing them. The better results were with
APX 25. What a lovely film.
Regards

Albano


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Camera group test

[mike wilson]

Hi,

Just a report about a test of the MZ-3, Nikon F80 and the EOS
30.  Denominations may be different where you live.  This test
was in the UK, in Amateur Photographer magazine.

No prizes for guessing which camera came last, because of
"...its more limited (sic) AF sensors and a more limited choice
of how they can be used."

Canon won (most advertising?) and the F80 scored because of the
grid screen overlay and a cable release socket.

A few statements about the MZ-3 puzzled me.  I am not familiar
with this camera, but have followed threads in PDML and read
about it elsewhere.  For example "The Pentax hasa central Af
point that expands slightly across the screen.but you can
use the centre spot by itself" In another pert, the tester seems
to be of the opinion that aperture can _only_ be selected with
the aperture ring, but then goes on to say "...the Pentax...uses
a separate A setting".  I always assumed that aperture was
selectable from other controls when the aperture ring was in the
A position.  Another statement which I find odd is that "when
using a hotshoe adaptor..you may only use the X
setting..thus you are stuck with 1/125sec and no slow sync."

Anyone have any observations about these?

The unassisted exposures from the MZ-3 were definitely the
lightest of the three, but where a blip of fill-in flash was
used indoors (a cathedral) to lighten foreground objects, the
other two had compensated by reducing the total exposure,
resulting in very dark pictures as the flash was insufficient to
properly light any of the scene.  "...Some underexposure.."
meaning a view of a stained glass window and its reflection off
the floor, with everything else black.  I suppose we have to
make some allowance for magazine reproduction.

For me, this would be a major failing which would have caused me
to either send the product back as defective or relegate it to
last in the test.

The reason given for the Canon winning, given that "The
exposures are no better than those of the Nikon and Pentax.."
was build quality and handling.  Not my perception when handling
this model, but it is the heaviest of the three, by quite a
margin.  Guess which is the lightest?  By about 25%.  Hard
to be precise, as it is not clear whether lenses are included,
but batteries definitely are not for the MZ-3.

The only interesting fact for me was that the pentamirror of the
MZ-3 is "moulded".

mike
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Re: Kodak T400CN

[Aaron Reynolds]

Paul Jones wrote:

> And also how far can the film be pushed?

Being a colour neg film, it really doesn't "push": more processing does
not yield more detail (and in my experience DOES yield a whack of extra
base density, to drop your contrast even further).  It will, however,
give a printable result shot at 800 and processed normally.  I have seen
excellent results shot at ISO 100 and 50 and processed normally.  The
negs were rather heavy, but the resulting prints looked fabulous
(possibly because the overexposure boosted the film's rather wimpy contrast).

The grain itself is very soft, yielding what appears on smaller prints
to be a very fine-grained image, but on larger prints I find the image
kind of mushy overall.  It's quite appropriate if you want to add a
little softness to your portraits.

-Aaron


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Re: Pentax 6x7 Ext. Tube Exp. Adjustments

[Aaron Reynolds]

William Robb wrote:
 
> I will dig it out for you, but it may take me a day or so.

Heh, I think mine's at work...let's race!

-Aaron

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Re: Winder ME II cable release diagram

[Ralf Stubner]

"Cyril MARION" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

> I have cabled my remote triger according to George's contribution (pin
> N°2 is useless).  But I understand (from Ralf's contribution) that
> sometimes pin N°2 trigs the light meter.  Is this feature implemented
> on specific Me II Winder series or in all models ?

I just made some tests this morning with my ME II winder and my ME.  At
least with this combination I am able to trigger the light meter with
pin N°2 when both camera and winder are set to 'auto'.  Interestingly
this does not depend on whether or not there are any batteries in the
winder.  So with my winder pin N°2 works the same way as half depressing
the winder button, and I know that I haven't done any changes to the
wiring of the winder.  But maybe one of the previous owners?

cheerio
ralf

-- 
Ralf Stubner 

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RE: Nikon Hoods for Pentax Lenses

[Paris, Leonard]

And I thought Pentax users wouldn't be caught dead using Nikon accessories
on their Pentax cameras and lenses. ;-)

Len
---

> -Original Message-
> From: Shel Belinkoff [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 7:33 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Nikon Hoods for Pentax Lenses
> 
> 
> There's a Nikon "F" hood designed specifically for a 50mm lens, but
> good examples of that hood are spendy and sometimes hard to find. 
> However, a great option for a screw-in metal hood is the Nikon
> HN-7.  Although it's designed for the Nikon 85mm/1.8, it works
> perfectly on Pentax 50mm lenses.  It's deeper and provides more
> protection than the HN-3, which I've been using on my K24/2.8 to
> good advantage.
> 
> -- 
> Shel Belinkoff
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> There are no rules for good photographs, 
> there are only good photographs.
> 
> Bob Walkden wrote:
> > 
> > Hi Peter,
> > 
> > I bow to your superior knowledge. I was quoting from a list somebody
> > sent me a couple of years ago when I was on a similar hunt for metal
> > hoods.
> > 
> > ---
> > Cheers,
> >  Bob
> > 
> > mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > Friday, April 06, 2001, 12:44:36 AM, you wrote:
> > 
> > > In a message dated 06/04/01 00:30:14 GMT Daylight Time,
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> > 
> > > << Nikon HN-5 or HN-3 (both metal) will probably do the 
> trick. HN-5 is
> > >  for their 50/1.4 & 50/1.2. HN-3 is for their 55/2.5 
> micro. All 52mm
> > >  thread. Nikon metal hoods are excellent and usually well 
> priced. >>
> > 
> > > Bob. I have never heard of an HN5 (and I sell a LOT of 
> Nikon hoods). I think
> > > it may be the HS9 (HS are the snap-on type, with the 
> sprung internal clamp)
> > > for the 50 1.4. HN3 certainly is recommended for the 
> 55micro, so should work
> > > well with a Pentax 50.
> > 
> > > Kind regards from sunny Brighton
> > 
> > >  Camera 
> Direct
> > 
> > > Peter
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Re: ME viewfinder (was Re: Zenitar 16/2.8 Fisheye)

[Jan van Wijk]

On Thu, 05 Apr 2001 22:46:29 -0500, Gary L. Murphy wrote:

>
>>hands:  How many folks would ditch the RTF on a ZX-5n
>>(or MZ-S for that matter) for a .98x magnification
>>viewfinder?  Mine's raised.

I certainly would!
-
Jan van Wijk;   www.fsys.demon.nl


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Subject: RE: Vivitar Series 1 28mm/f2

[Tanya & Russell Mayer]

Peter wrote;

"1. Can't you work any bloody pentax gear? - just kidding."

Uuurm, apparently not!  But that lens is a VIVITAR, so there!! (And I have
got
it working now, so DOUBLE there!) ;-)

I recently posted a similar issue with my PK Vivitar Series one 70-210 see

http://www.mail-archive.com/pentax-discuss@pdml.net/msg15723.html

There is a large black ridge around the diaphragm control lever on the back
of the lens that is much bigger on my Series 1 than on other K mounts I own.
It catches on a little box in the MZ mount at about 5 O'clock as you look
into the mount cavity. This in turn doesn't allow the lens to go fully home.
If that is what is happening with yours (and it could be different) then
there isn't a solution this time."

This is exactly what is happening!  (and thanks for the link, btw)  I  had
just worked it out and was about to
post about it when I saw your response, however, I also have in my hot
little
hands a new ME Super that a rather generous PDML'er sent in my general
direction, and the lens works perfectly on it!  So, my plan is to leave it
basically
permanently on the ME Super, and use my other bodies for other stuff.  I
would
like to thank everybody who offered ideas and advice about this btw, there
are
way too many for me to respond to you all individually, but I have read what
you all wrote and taken it under advisement...hehehe ;-)

"p.s.  Have you done a still life shot of your smashed PZ1p yet?"

No Peter, unfortunately on the day that I smashed it I was so upset that I
took
it to this local guy who calls himself a camera repair man.  He basically
laughed
in my face when I showed it to him and mumbled something along the lines of
"dumb broad" as I walked out the door!  Anyways, I left the bits and pieces
there
as I wasn't exactly thinking straight and my kids were hanging out the
windows of
my car telling me to "hurry up, mum".  I went home, posted about it on PDML,
somebody emailed me asking for the parts, so I phoned the guy and told him
not
to throw them away and that I'd collect them later and lo and behold the
b*st*rd
had thrown them to the tip!!! G!  I know where I won't be taking any
future
camera repairs, that's for sure!  Typical mentallity of people in this town
though...

"p.p.s.  Can you get me an invite to the fashion shoot in NY?  ;-)"

Sure, the more the merrier! Ha! Actually, Chunglee is having trouble getting
in himself
this season, says he has left it too late, so we'll have to wait and see if
he can get in, but
I honestly don't think I'll have the dollars to get over there by September.
Building our
new house is number one priority at the moment, closely followed by Uni.
fees, oh and
there's this little matter of a couple of kids to feed and a mother who is
severely addicted
to buying photographic equipment from this place called Ebay

fairy.





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Subject: Re: Kodak T400CN

[Tanya & Russell Mayer]

The only b&w I have ever shot has been c41 films, and primarily, Kodak
T400CN.  I really like this film however sometimes the "sepia" toning that
it gives can be a leaning a little too much toward the red side of things.
(That could just be my crappy lab though).  On the other hand, stay away
from the Kodak "Select Series" B&W (also c41 film).  The labs hate to
process it and say that they can't get an accurate colour balance.
Everytime I have used this film, I get the roll back with some shots looking
like true b&w, others sepia, and some even with green and blue tinges, it
can be extremely annoying, but I guess you could use it to your benefit
creatively as well

fairy.

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Nikon Hoods for Pentax Lenses

[Shel Belinkoff]

There's a Nikon "F" hood designed specifically for a 50mm lens, but
good examples of that hood are spendy and sometimes hard to find. 
However, a great option for a screw-in metal hood is the Nikon
HN-7.  Although it's designed for the Nikon 85mm/1.8, it works
perfectly on Pentax 50mm lenses.  It's deeper and provides more
protection than the HN-3, which I've been using on my K24/2.8 to
good advantage.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
There are no rules for good photographs, 
there are only good photographs.

Bob Walkden wrote:
> 
> Hi Peter,
> 
> I bow to your superior knowledge. I was quoting from a list somebody
> sent me a couple of years ago when I was on a similar hunt for metal
> hoods.
> 
> ---
> Cheers,
>  Bob
> 
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Friday, April 06, 2001, 12:44:36 AM, you wrote:
> 
> > In a message dated 06/04/01 00:30:14 GMT Daylight Time,
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> 
> > << Nikon HN-5 or HN-3 (both metal) will probably do the trick. HN-5 is
> >  for their 50/1.4 & 50/1.2. HN-3 is for their 55/2.5 micro. All 52mm
> >  thread. Nikon metal hoods are excellent and usually well priced. >>
> 
> > Bob. I have never heard of an HN5 (and I sell a LOT of Nikon hoods). I think
> > it may be the HS9 (HS are the snap-on type, with the sprung internal clamp)
> > for the 50 1.4. HN3 certainly is recommended for the 55micro, so should work
> > well with a Pentax 50.
> 
> > Kind regards from sunny Brighton
> 
> >  Camera Direct
> 
> > Peter
> > -
> > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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Re: Sears K mount 28-70mm

[Collin Brendemuehl]

I contacted Sears directly last Summer about
the origin of this lens series.  They were unable
to give me any information about them because
they have no paperwork availab!  It's not there
to be read.  Bummer.

Collin

***

Data Processing Consultation, Inc.
Providing Broad-Spectrum Business Solutions and Assistance
http://www.iol21.com/dpconsult
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: bad processing

[Dan Scott]

All I want is my negatives developed and an index print if possible. I'd
like to reduce the amount of handling the negatives go through--is the film
less likely to be scratched if they give it back to me uncut, or cut and
sleeved?

What kind of questions should I ask when I walk up to the counter of a new
photo lab? And what are the answers I should be looking for?

Dan Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

>> I wouldn't say neandertals. Disinterested and apathetic,
>definitely.
>
>It doesn't sound like there is much hope for that lot.
>
>>
>>Does Fuji make
>their own
>> machines?
>
>They do, and their film processors suck.
>
>William Robb
>


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Re: ME viewfinder (was Re: Zenitar 16/2.8 Fisheye)

[Dan Scott]

>I'm with you on this one.  I think you're right about
>the magnification being higher than any other Pentax
>SLR, _and_, to my knowledge, it is the smallest full
>frame regular production 35mm SLR ever made.  Show of
>hands:  How many folks would ditch the RTF on a ZX-5n
>(or MZ-S for that matter) for a .98x magnification
>viewfinder?  Mine's raised.
>
>Thanks,
>
>William in Utah.

Me.

Dan Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: Subject: Re: bad processing

[Rob Studdert]

On 6 Apr 2001, at 18:36, Tanya & Russell Mayer wrote:

> Tom wrote:
> 
> "How long has the clone tool been around?  I typically find myself doing the
> bare minimum to get acceptable results... maybe because I don't start till
> around 10PM usually.  I have Photoshop 4.0 installed and 6.0 sitting there in
> the box."
> 
> Tom, the "clone" tool is the Rubber Stamp tool and takes about 0.05 secs to use.
>  I have Photoshop 5.0 and it is an unreal way to get rid of scratches etc.  You
> could also "smudge" them out if you like.

The clone tool has been around since the days on the old DOS Deluxe Paint 
II from Electronic Arts, the technology of which was used as the basis of the 
Aldus product PhotoStyler which was bought up by Adobe if my memory 
serves me correctly.

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
Fax +61-2-9554-9259
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: pentax helicoid tube

[Aaron Reynolds]

Daphne wrote:

> NEAT accessory!! for those of you who aint familiar with the device, its
> a set of extension tubes folded into one very slim ring - which extends,
> when you turn the focusing ring, to any chosen width (up to the size of
> a regular x2 tc). its wonderful! no more need to shlep all three ring
> set and try each one till the right distance is achieved...

I picked up one of these for my 67, and wow, is it ever useful
(especially since those 67 lenses don't focus all that close).

Not much info to add, I guess, except that I like it to!

-Aaron

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Re: For those addicted to the*

[Mark Stringer]

It appears he bought an FA and an F on his last two transactions and decided
to keep the F.  I think it was a good decision.
- Original Message -
From: "William Kane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2001 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: For those addicted to the*


> no picture for the item, seller only has 7 feedback rating, and all seem
> to be as a BUYER not as a seller . . . although it does appear that at
> least his last _2_ transactions have been as the winning bidder on the
> same lens . . . H
>
> Just reporting em as I see em,
> Bill
>
> Donald Ross wrote:
> >
> > Only 2 days left
> >
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1225997673&r=0&t=0&sh
> > owTutorial=0&ed=986706263&indexURL=0&rd=1
> >
> > Don
> >
> > -
> > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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RE: Sears K mount 28-70mm

[Peter Smith]

I often wonder what the origins of the "obscure" lens brands were.  Many
come with "Store" specific brand names and you can bet that they were all
made by a common manufacturer somewhere in the far east.  Some may even be
clones of better known brands.  I wonder if anyone out there has ever tried
to do a family tree. If so you can bet that there's a page somewhere on the
internet with the details.  I have a KA mount (the A bit doesn't work) 24mm
f2.8 "Miranda" which I use lots - often wonder about it's origins.

Peter

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Ken Archer
> Sent: 06 April 2001 05:02
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Sears K mount 28-70mm
>
>
> I recently picked up this lens at a cheap price knowing that it
> has a sticking
> diaphram and the zoom is a little stiff.  Now I am wondering if
> it is worth
> fixing.  It seems to be built solid as a rock.  The optics are clean and
> clear.  Although the diaphram sticks, I don't see any oil or
> dust.  Anyone have
> any experience with it?  The one I have says 3.5-4.5, takes a
> 58mm filter, auto,
> zoom, multicoated.  It was made in Korea by who knows which company.
>
> --
> Kenneth Archer + San Antonio, Texas
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]   ICQ #24980801
> Powered by Linux ++ Mailed by Kmail
>
>
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RE: Vivitar Series 1 28mm/f2

[Peter Smith]

Tom

The ridge I refer to is on all my K mount lenses.  It's the raised bit that
stops the aperture control lever getting bent if you present the lens to the
mount clumsily.  It's just that on most K mount lenses this bit covers about
5 to 10 minutes of the circumference of the lens mount whereas on MY (others
may be different) Vivitar Series 1 70-210 f3.5 the bit covers about 30
minutes.  It's never been a problem on my other cameras (SFXn MES MG) but
stops it being mounted on the MZ/ZX series. (and according to Tanya the PZ
as well).

Tanya

We seem to have gone on a drift from your original problem with regards to
the S1 28mm you bought on ebay and are presuming that it has the same
problem as my 70-210.  You seem to have gone quiet on this one?  (Don't tell
us you'd left the rear lens cap on)



> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Ivar Helbekkmo
> Sent: 05 April 2001 21:15
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Vivitar Series 1 28mm/f2
>
>
> "Peter Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
>
> > There is a large black ridge around the diaphragm control lever on
> > the back of the [Vivitar Series 1 70-210] that is much bigger on my
> > Series 1 than on other K mounts I own.
>
> They must have built more than one version of the mount: my S1 70-210
> doesn't have the ridge at all.  Perhaps it's a later version, after
> they discovered the problem with their oversized one?  It's only there
> to protect the diaphragm coupling, anyway...
>
> I asked my local Pentax technician, by the way, and he said he hadn't
> heard of this problem, but mused that it would explain some weird
> damage he'd seen to the mirror boxes of a couple of LX bodies.
>
> -tih
> --
> The basic difference is this: hackers build things, crackers break them.
> -
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RE: ME viewfinder (was Re: Zenitar 16/2.8 Fisheye)

[Peter Smith]

My hand is raised too but I don't think a camera without a built in flash
would sell in the popular market place.  Perhaps a better solution would be
to move the RTF away from the viewfinder.  I recently read that the MZ has a
"penta-mirror" not a pentaprism.  Is that the cause of the poor viewfinder
performance?

Peter

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of William Johnson
> Sent: 06 April 2001 04:36
> To: pentax discuss
> Subject: ME viewfinder (was Re: Zenitar 16/2.8 Fisheye)
>
>
> Todd wrote;
>
> >The ME does have a really nice viewfinder.
> >Considering how small the ME
> >is, I don't buy the excuse that a viewfinder like
> >this can't be put into a
> >AF camera because it would make the camera too big.
> >The magnification is
> >.98x, which I think is the highest of any Pentax 35mm
> >SLR?  IIRC the MX has
> >.97x and the ME Super has .95x.
>
> I'm with you on this one.  I think you're right about
> the magnification being higher than any other Pentax
> SLR, _and_, to my knowledge, it is the smallest full
> frame regular production 35mm SLR ever made.  Show of
> hands:  How many folks would ditch the RTF on a ZX-5n
> (or MZ-S for that matter) for a .98x magnification
> viewfinder?  Mine's raised.
>
> Thanks,
>
> William in Utah.
>
> __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> -
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RE: Vivitar Series 1 28mm/f2

[Peter Smith]

Thanks Darren - no I think your two cents worth is useful extra information
and helps clarify the problem for me at least.

Peter

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Darren & Tara
> Sutherland
> Sent: 06 April 2001 04:43
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Vivitar Series 1 28mm/f2
>
>
> Incidently, this is facility for the "power-zoom" contacts.  It exists on
> all Pentax AF bodies from the PZ series to current...even if it doesn't
> actually have the contacts (as on the MZ-7, 30, 50 etc.).  The SF
> series of
> cameras did not have this little "box" that gets in the way.  This problem
> should not occur on any manual focus camera previous to the MZ-M, as there
> should not be anything to get in the way.  Not all off-brand lenses have
> this...in fact, I would say it's a minority of models that have
> this longer
> "ridge" to protect the aperature lever.  Just my two cents
> worth...ignore if
> this has already been mentioned.
>
> ThanX
>
> Darren S.
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Peter Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: April 5, 2001 12:04 PM
> Subject: RE: Vivitar Series 1 28mm/f2
>
>
> >There is a large black ridge around the diaphragm control lever
> on the back
> >of the lens that is much bigger on my Series 1 than on other K mounts I
> own.
> >It catches on a little box in the MZ mount at about 5 O'clock as you look
> >into the mount cavity. This in turn doesn't allow the lens to go fully
> home.
> >If that is what is happening with yours (and it could be different) then
> >there isn't a solution this time.
> >
> >-
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> >go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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> >
> >
> >
>
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RE: Vivitar Series 1 28mm/f2

[Peter Smith]

James Adams wrote:

> Hi Tanya,
> Sorry to hear about your Ebay transaction vs.
> Vivitar Series 1 lens (28-90/2.8-3.5 macro)
>
> I'm a bit wary about bidding for anything on Ebay, but maybe it's the Scot
> in me.  There are a number of shady characters out there, unfortunately a
> number of people have to get stung before these are found out. Even then,
> they often change their ID, so what can one do. Got to take a
> chance if it's what you want.

I don't think there is anything untoward in the deal.  Its just an
incompatibility problem.  If the seller was aware of the problem then maybe
they should have declared it but they probably didn't know as Tanya didn't.
Any decent seller will probably take it back but I think Tanya will have to
stand the shipping both ways as the incompatibility is with her "newer"
cameras, and the lens is working as intended.  Take it to your favourite
photo store Tanya and try it on older (SF series and before) cameras just to
make sure it isn't a lens problem.

At least because of this incident and a previous thread on the Vivitar
Series 1, list members are now aware of a potential incompatibility.  I
think that's the problem of buying remotely (ebay or otherwise) - you can't
examine and test before you buy.

Peter




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OT: Theater photo & film choice

[Flavio Minelli]

Hi all.

I'm reading on a new italian photo mag that Fuji finally released a new
Superia 1600 4-layers film. It's branded as consumer film, did anybody
got to test it? No data sheet available as yet on Fuji's site.

Others options are Supra or Superia 800 which I'd possibly try to push.
I'd like to stir a bit more argument about the unpushability of negative
film. If this is true why do film producers insist in giving pushing
info in their documentation? Come on, Sask. Bill, get eloquent ;-).

The last option is Kodak RG 1000. I used this in my last venture in this
field with good results. The promo stuff from Kodak says although the
film is for daylight it can be used with other kinds of lighting without
need of filters.
Maybe this is true for ALL negative films.

I already got some useful advice from knowledgeable people but I'd like
to have some more opinions, especially from those who did or do theater
photo (Brian?).

Thanks, Flavio
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Re: Ebay Auction...

[Anthony Farr]

Or you could threaten them with negative feedback for trying to gouge you on
the p&h!

Regards,
Anthony Farr

- Original Message -
From: "Tanya & Russell Mayer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Pentax Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, 5 April 2001 8:02 AM
Subject: Ebay Auction...


> Hey Everyone,
>
> I just one this auction that I think Bob? posted on the PDML,
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1225504935&ed=9863
> 10988
>
> however, they want me to pay US$80 postage!  There is no way that I can
> either afford to or am willing to pay this much (the whole auction was
only
> US$59!).  However, it is Goodwill Industries who are auctioning this and
I'd
> feel terrible if I backed out of the transaction and they lost a sale as a
> result.
>
> So,  if anybody is interested in either of these two items who lives in
the
> US or even closer (they are located in Santa Rosa, CA) and would like
these
> items can you please email me off list so I can put you in touch with
them?
>
> If there is somebody who is interested in just one of these lenses, then
> maybe I can still purchase the other one and we could both win out.
>
> I only really wanted the 50mm/1.7 anyways, but would be happy to take the
> 135mm if somebody else wants the 50.  Normally, I wouldn't care and would
> just say to them "leave a bad feedback if you like but there is no way I'm
> paying that!", however, as I said, I feel kinda mean cause it is for
> Charity.  My budget stops at US$75 and there is no way I can go over
> thisAnybody interested?
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> Tanya.
>




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Re: also

[Anthony Farr]

- Original Message -
From: "Daphne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> I noticed something else bout the 50/1.4-K, it seems to focus just a bit
> beyond the chosen spot..? could focus be off? or more likely its just me
> not being used to the heftier focusing ring?
>
> Daphne
>

The lens by itself can't focus on the wrong plane, although the focus scale
can give the wrong indication if you're scale focussing.  Any error will be
in the system behind the lens up to and including your own eyes.  The ground
glass area of the screen is the most accurate place to determine focus.
Focussing aids such as split images and microprisms depend on an aerial
image which is not confined to a single plane (as it would be on ground
glass) so any imperfection in your vision will throw the image to a
different level.  Also, there can be calibration faults in a camera's mirror
or screen position that can cause a difference between correct focus on the
ground glass and at the film plane.

Try this, preferably with a wide angle lens, it has more critical depth of
focus (not field!) than standard or tele lenses.  Lay out a tape measure
from zero at the film plane (focus scales measure from the film plane)
leading away from the camera.  Focus at the 1 metre mark and take a shot at
the widest aperture.  Check two things.  Does the lens scale indicate 1m?
This is not absolutely important as the focus ring may have been badly
realigned after a repair, or slipped out of calibration, and this won't
affect the sharpness when you focus visually.  Is the resultant photo
focussed at 1m?  This is the acid test.  An error here means a CLA at least
is indicated for your camera.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Anthony Farr





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RE: Subject: Re: Ebay Auction... - private (very OT!)

[John Coyle]

On Friday, April 06, 2001 10:04 AM, aimcompute [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] wrote:
> We just thought you were typing Australian, :-)
> 
> Tom C.
> 

Them's fighting wurds

John Coyle
Brisbane, Australia

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Subject: Re: bad processing

[Tanya & Russell Mayer]

Tom wrote:

"How long has the clone tool been around?  I typically find myself doing the
bare minimum to get acceptable results... maybe because I don't start till
around 10PM usually.  I have Photoshop 4.0 installed and 6.0 sitting there
in the box."

Tom, the "clone" tool is the Rubber Stamp tool and takes about 0.05 secs to
use.  I have Photoshop 5.0 and it is an unreal way to get rid of scratches
etc.  You could also "smudge" them out if you like.

fairy.



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Re: > Subject: Re: bad processing

[Leon Altoff]

On Fri, 6 Apr 2001 09:20:30 +1000, Tanya & Russell Mayer wrote:

>Ok, so you guys think you've got it bad, well here's my story! (hehe, I love
>to tell stories!)...
>
>The city I live in is called Mount Isa, there are just over 20,000 people
..
>my very own especially built dark room, AND I will also have access to all
>of the University's darkroom facilities, so the problem definitely won't
>exist then.  But in the meantime, what's a girl to do..?

Tanya,

15 years ago there were some very good labs in Brisbane who I would not
have hesitated posting films to - Townsend Colourtech in the Valley was
my favourite.  Today I can't tell, but with Express post envelopes
being reasonably priced I quite often send 6 or 7 rolls of Kodachrome
to get processed complete with a return Express Post bag and get them
back in 5 working days or so which is a major feat for Kodachrome.

I would probably talk to the lab that does the double sets of 6 x 8's
and see if they can come up with a price for doing corrected prints and
ensuring that there is no dust or water splotches on the negs and
prints.  If you offer them a bit more money and the promise of more
work they should be interested in sorting something out, if not then
you probably don't want to deal with them anyway!  Talk to them about
your choice of films aswell and try starting each film with a test shot
that includes bright white dark black and a mid grey - this hopefully
will give them a way of getting the colours right.

Do either of the Labs do their own enlargments?  You will probably be
getting orders for a few of them so make sure they can deliver on that
aswell.

Failing all that buy yourself a neg scanner and scan the negs yourself
and send them (FTP or Email) to somewhere like Michael's Camera store
in Melbourne (www.michaels.com.au) who have a Fuji Frontier system and
will print them and courier them back to you. 


 Leon

http://www.bluering.org.au
http://www.bluering.org.au/leon


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RE: Winder ME II cable release diagram

[Cyril MARION]

Hi Ralf, hi George,

I have cabled my remote triger according to George's contribution (pin N°2
is useless).
But I understand (from Ralf's contribution) that sometimes pin N°2 trigs the
light meter.
Is this feature implemented on specific Me II Winder series or in all models
?

On my winder no combination of any of the 3 pins turns the light meter on.
Is this normal ?

On the ORIGINAL ME II WInder remote cable accessory, how many pins are used,
and how does the 'pear'* operate ? With remote button half depressed is the
light meter turned on ?

   ___
  /   \
 | [Winder ME II]  |
 | |
 |/
 |   |
 |  °| <--- Shutter release = 'S'
 |°  | <--- +6V (and/or Light meter ?) = 'L'
 |  °| <--- electrical ground = 'G'
  \__O__/ <--- Winder button


I use a recent 'F' remote cable release to adapt to both my PZ-10 and my
SUPERA+ME II Winder cameras with appropriate stereo jack M/F connections :

 ['F' connector, camera side]
  _
 /°| <--- electrical ground 'G'
 |°| <--- shutter release 'S'
 |°| <--- light + AF release 'L'
 |_|

The 'F' cable release short-cicuits the equivalent of G+L when half
depressed, and G+L+S when totally depressed. Is this schematics suits to the
ME II Winder operating mode ?

Thanks in advance to you George and Ralf, and all 'ME II WInder' specialists
!

Regards,

Cyril

*I do not know if you call it like this ! For me it's the place where
buttons trig + lock are located, on the opposite side of the  winder
connector. In the oldies it has the shape of a pear...

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