Re: 6x7 Lens and extension tubes questions

[David A. Mann]

William Robb wrote:

> There is an outer bayonet set for longer lenses that I have no
> experience with.

My experience with the outer bayonet set almost made me buy a broken 67 
Takumar 400mm f/4.

I think there's a trick to attaching them securely.

Cheers,


- Dave

http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/ (out of date)
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Re: C41color film developing, how hard is it ?

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: J. C. O'Connell
Subject: RE: C41color film developing, how hard is it ?


> > or because you are shooting kiddy porn
> > and don't want to get caught doing it, in which case you
should
> > buy a digital camera.
>
> No , in which case you should seek a mental heath
> professional.

I wasn't being judgemental, just attempting technical accuracy.

William Robb
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RE: Using AF-360FGZ diffuser

[tom]

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Albert Fekson
>
>
>
> I will be using it with my ZX-5N, I can't afford MZ-S yet.
> Anyway, I want to
> use bounce flash with the built-in catchlight card of the
> FGZ. The manual
> specifies that the flash head should be set to 90 degree
> angle. I think that
> this will only give a "sparkle in the eye effect", so I
> will be setting the
> head to 45 degrees with the catchlight panel.

Set it so it bounces off the ceiling at an angle that hits your
subject. If you're 3 feet away, this would be closer to 90 than 45.

I would also try a few shots varying the amount of card used. If you
get too much bounce off the card, it reverts to looking like a boring
full-frontal flash shot.


> I will be
> using Fuji NPH 400,
> the party will be indoors, and 28-70 F4 since I don't think
> the 50mm or
> 100mm Macro will do. Can anyone offer tips and suggestions
> for this setup?
> Mainly:
>
> 1. Bounce flash angle.

Depends on distance.

> 2. Some people prefer NPH set to ISO 320 rather than 400, I
> did not have a
> chance to test this.

NPH is a 400 speed film, you'll be fine. Portra 400 is more iffy.

> 3. Using FA 50mm for portraits.
>

I'd stick with the zoom unless you're trying to get available light
shots.

tv
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Bob Blakely]

I presumed this fact to be intuitively obvious to the most casual observer.
Nevertheless, if the scale on the lens is correct, misalignment of the
mirror will not affect film focus using the scale and a tape measurement.

Regards,
Bob...

From: "Fred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> > 4. Poorly positioned mirror (the usual problem) will have no
> > effect on film focus, but will affect focus screen focus.
>
> Actually, Bob, mirror misalignment ~will~ affect film focus, albeit
> indirectly.  (However, directly or indirectly, the effect is going
> to be that the image cast onto the film will not be sharp.)  Since
> the user will be focusing the lens so as to make the focus screen
> image as sharp as possible, if the mirror is out of alignment,
> he/she will always be setting the lens so as to cause the image
> landing on the film plane to be out of focus.  (A pentaprism SLR
> always makes the assumption that the mirror focus is aligned with
> the film plane focus - if they don't match, then out-of-focus images
> will be captured at the film plane.)  Therefore, a poorly positioned
> mirror ~will~ have an effect on film focus.
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Re: OT: What to see in Milwaukee

[Rfsindg]

William,

Milwaukee is a great city.  Big enough to have big city attractions and small 
enough to still be a friendly place.  Others can give you some camera store 
tips as I haven't lived in Wisconsin for 19 years.  I wouldn't miss the 
lakeshore.  Lake Michigan is great.  150 years ago, Milwaukee and Chicago 
were seaports for sailing ships.  The Zoo is world class with a natural 
setting like the San Diego Zoo.  And the German heritage makes for some 
interesting eating.  

Regards,  Bob S.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< I have a Pentax buddy that may be heading to Milwaukee on business later
 this month.  He is not sure if he wants to go and is looking for an
 additional incentive.  So, what is there to do and see from a
 photographic point of view in Milwaukee?  Any good Pentax camera
 stores?  Any good places to shop for used Pentax gear?  Any suggestions
 welcome. >>
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OT: What to see in Milwaukee

[William Johnson]

Hi,

I have a Pentax buddy that may be heading to Milwaukee on business later
this month.  He is not sure if he wants to go and is looking for an
additional incentive.  So, what is there to do and see from a
photographic point of view in Milwaukee?  Any good Pentax camera
stores?  Any good places to shop for used Pentax gear?  Any suggestions
welcome.

Thanks,

William in Utah.
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Fred]

> 4. Poorly positioned mirror (the usual problem) will have no
> effect on film focus, but will affect focus screen focus.

Actually, Bob, mirror misalignment ~will~ affect film focus, albeit
indirectly.  (However, directly or indirectly, the effect is going
to be that the image cast onto the film will not be sharp.)  Since
the user will be focusing the lens so as to make the focus screen
image as sharp as possible, if the mirror is out of alignment,
he/she will always be setting the lens so as to cause the image
landing on the film plane to be out of focus.  (A pentaprism SLR
always makes the assumption that the mirror focus is aligned with
the film plane focus - if they don't match, then out-of-focus images
will be captured at the film plane.)  Therefore, a poorly positioned
mirror ~will~ have an effect on film focus.

Fred
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Re: Scanning for PUG or the web

[GLewis4457]

In a message dated 7/2/2002 7:52:07 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Generally you will be able to specify the length to resize one 
> side and the other will be resized automatically in order to constrain the 
> image proportions.
> 

Now I just let the scanner do all the work, and the Epson 2450 does a very 
good job of scanning and auto sizing for the web/net.  Since I primarily use 
my scanner and computer to archive and preview my pics this will save me alot 
of scanning time as scanning to the web is alot faster than a full scan tiff 
file.  Now I can spend my time on the negs/slides I want to work on

Thanks for the explanation...

Jerry in Houston
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Re: Scanning for PUG (long)

[Rob Studdert]

On 2 Jul 2002 at 14:06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Ihave been following this thread and have been very interested.  One of the
> reasons I have not submitted to PUG has been the hassle of getting an image to
> the right size for submittal. 

It seems that one of the common problems for people new to digital image 
production is the confusion that lies in the difference between scale (dpi) and 
image dimensions (pixels) and their effects on the target display media.

Print media generally benefits from a higher resolution than is required for 
screen display and good print software generally makes use of scale information 
that is embedded in an image by the scanner software. For example when a 35mm 
film is scanned full frame at 4000dpi (3780 x 5670 pixels) and then printed 
without re-scaling using a scale sensitive application than the resultant image 
on the output media should reproduce at 24mm x 36mm in size.

Most web browsers are resolution dependent (however they can scale), they 
display an image based on its image dimensions in absolute pixels (times a 
scaling factor if it is specified). You can assume that the screen as an output 
media has a resolution of about 72 dpi (to find your actual screen resolution 
divide horizontal display screen area setting by the visible desktop width in 
inches) so you can assume that in most cases an image of 600 pixels by 400 
pixels will display about 8.3" x 5.5" on the average screen (without browser 
scaling).

If the 400dpi film scan mentioned above was displayed in a regular browser on a 
regular screen without resizing the image would display virtually 52.5" x 
78.75" Obviously in this case using an average computer there would only be a 
very small portion of the image visible in the browser at any one time and 
there would be a lot of scrolling going on in order to see the remainder, not 
desirable.

What it boils down to is that some scanner software is biased towards print 
output and some towards screen so if you are confused at the scanning stage as 
to how big the file is going to be it's best to scan at the maximum 
resolution/size available (without interpolation ie at the scanners natural 
resolution) and then the resize the image using an image editor application.

There are many inexpensive and capable shareware image editors such as Paint 
Shop Pro or commercial applications such as PhotoShop, most will allow you to 
resize an image with ease and also to compress your image to comply with the 
requirements stated in PUG submissions page.

Resizing involves not just adjusting the resolution stored in the image but 
resampling the image in order to form an new image with fewer actual pixels in 
each dimension. Generally you will be able to specify the length to resize one 
side and the other will be resized automatically in order to constrain the 
image proportions.

I hope this helps

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: shooting fireworks

[Chris Brogden]

On Tue, 2 Jul 2002, Amita Guha wrote:

> Would 400 speed film be ok to shoot fireworks or should I get 800
> instead?

Depends.  I handheld some fireworks shots last night (3-5 seconds), and I
used a mixture of 400 and 800 film.  I prefer to use slower film and
steady the camera on something locally, but there was nothing easily
available where I was.  Not sure how bad the shots will suck.

chris
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Re: 65mm Lens Missing in Action

[Chris Brogden]

On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, William Robb wrote:

> > > But the missing link is between the 50 and the 85mm, there
> is
> > > no 65mm lens! :(
>
>
> Doesn't Nikon make a 65mm macro?
> I have a 65mm Angulon...

Close.  It's a 60mm, and they call their macro lenses "micro" for some
lame marketing reason.

chris
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Bob Blakely]

1. Prism setting(s) have no effect on either film focus or focus screen
focus.
2. Diopter setting have no effect on either film focus or focus screen
focus.
3. Improper focus screen latching will have no effect on film focus, but
will affect focus screen focus.
4. Poorly positioned mirror (the usual problem) will have no effect on film
focus, but will affect focus screen focus.
5. Poorly positioned lens mount will effect both film focus and focus screen
focus, but they will  "track" together.
6. Poorly aligned lens may effect both film focus and focus screen focus but
they will  "track" together.
7. Poorly aligned back plane has no effect as it is the reference and
therefore always correct (unless warped or otherwise damaged).

Regards,
Bob...

From: "MPozzi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> At the risk of sounding simplistic could it be the
> prism and the diopter settings?
> Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
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Using AF-360FGZ diffuser

[Albert Fekson]

Hello all,

Just unpacked my new toy; AF-360 FGZ flash from Adorama. So far my
impressions are favorable; its compact, well-build and has neat features. I
will be using it on the 4th to photograph my grandfather's 75th Birthday
party.

I will be using it with my ZX-5N, I can't afford MZ-S yet. Anyway, I want to
use bounce flash with the built-in catchlight card of the FGZ. The manual
specifies that the flash head should be set to 90 degree angle. I think that
this will only give a "sparkle in the eye effect", so I will be setting the
head to 45 degrees with the catchlight panel. I will be using Fuji NPH 400,
the party will be indoors, and 28-70 F4 since I don't think the 50mm or
100mm Macro will do. Can anyone offer tips and suggestions for this setup?
Mainly:

1. Bounce flash angle.
2. Some people prefer NPH set to ISO 320 rather than 400, I did not have a
chance to test this.
3. Using FA 50mm for portraits.

Thanks,

Albert Fekson
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Eliot Porter's "In Wildness..." ebay listing (mine)

[Ann Sanfedele]

With  5 hours to go, I don't have a bid on this... can't imagine why.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1545974742

Any of you want it?  Is this so plentiful that my price is too high?

annsan the perplexed
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Re: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

The Kiron and Vivitar 105 macros should be optically identical in all respects except 
possibly their coatings. I say optically identical, because the finish is different. I 
would assume they were build on the same assembly line, using the same internal 
baffling and diaphragm.

After offline dialogs with Fred, I'm less certain about the optical equivalence of the 
Vivitar Series 1 90/2.5 and its Tokina ATX 90/2.5 "twin." I say this not because the 
Vivitar uses a 58mm filter, the Tokina a 55; that's a "packaging" decision. Nor 
because the Vivitar includes a tripod ring while the Tokina, Fred informs me, does 
not. But rather, because they focus in different directions, suggesting--to me, at any 
rate--that they may have been made in different factories, and so all bets are off; 
perhaps they even cut from different glass. Steve Larson has written that the Vivitar 
has great color and bokeh, while a Minolta user was not impressed with the Tokina's 
bokeh. 

As for Vivitar's VMC (Vivitar Multi Coating), I have seen it deliver rich colors in my 
28/1.9 but muted colors in my 135/2.3. I've read nothing about the Tokina's colors. 
However, these 90/2.5s (1:2, 1:1 with optional 1:1 3-3-element extender) were among 
the last great manual focus macros, coming on the scene around 1986. I would hope that 
that means their colors are richer. The color-rich 28/1.9 VMC came out in 1979, the 
color-mute 135/2.3 in 1977, suggesting that Vivitar found a way to apply protective 
coatings without stripping out the saturation.

I can't speak for the Vivitar 105's color (1986), but my Kiron 105/2.8 PK's colors 
(1984) are on the muted side. (There goes a PDML sale.)

Paul F. Stregevsky


mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
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Re: Canon FS4000 film scanner

[Frits J. Wüthrich]

Before you give Vuescan another try: download the newest version. That 
also cured a problem I had under Windows. The current version is 7.5.35

On Tuesday 02 July 2002 23:17, Doug Franklin wrote:
> Hi Frits,
>
> On Tue, 2 Jul 2002 21:06:27 +0100, Frits J. Wthrich wrote:
> > In all fairness, they do mention that in rare cases [Cache Manager
> > can foul everything up]. I am sorry that you are a rare case:-)
>
> It's not the first time or the only domain in which I'm a rare (some
> say strange) case. :-)
>
> > BTW, I made the switch to Linux, and use Vuescan with that as well.
> > I like it better then Windows for reason of stability and cost.
>
> I like Linux, and I've got Mandrake 8.1 installed on this computer in
> another partition.  But I just don't have time to get all my data
> transferred over (where that's even possible) and learn the new
> programs and ways of doing things.  I do take the Mandrake
> installation out and play with it once a month or so.
>
> > You can contact Ed Hamrick at [EMAIL PROTECTED] to complain about
> > the lack of FARE support. In fact, I really would like you to do
> > that. He was very responsive to problems I had with Vuescan.
>
> The last time I tried VueScan was back in February or March.  At that
> time, there was a note in the FAQ that indicated Ed was aware of the
> issues with both FARE and ICE and was working on them.  So I've held
> back on tossing in another "me too" message. :-)  I'm going to give
> it another try and see if I can get non-sepia-toned images by turning
> off FARE.
>
> TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ

-- 
Frits J. Wüthrich
(Sent with Kmail)
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RE: MZ-S built-in flash w/24mm f2

[tom]

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Steve Desjardins
>
>
> "On another topic, I was surprised to read that Dario had trouble
> setting the AF sensor points, feeling that he needed two
> right hands,
> when it's easier to use the left fingertips to operate the
> AF point lock
> switch. "
>
> I've had the same problem.  It may depend on the size of your hands,
> but I find it a pretty awkward reach to get to that switch
> using my left
> hand under the lens.

I tried it that way a few times, but never really got comfy with it. I
usually push the switch up with the tip of my middle finger and spin
the dial with my thumb.

tv
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Re: MZ-S built-in flash w/24mm f2

[Steve Desjardins]

"On another topic, I was surprised to read that Dario had trouble
setting the AF sensor points, feeling that he needed two right hands,
when it's easier to use the left fingertips to operate the AF point lock
switch. "
 
I've had the same problem.  It may depend on the size of your hands,
but I find it a pretty awkward reach to get to that switch using my left
hand under the lens.
 
steve
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mea culpa

[Collin Brendemuehl]

Re-opening an old technical discussion:
My whole understand of DOF has been enlightened
and the explanations I provided earlier were in
serious error.

#1. DOF is directly tied to the opening of the diaphram.  This is the major determiner 
of DOF.
Lens design affect is somewhat, but that's a secondary effect.

#2. As a result, a 150mm lens on a 4x5 and on a 35mm will have the same DOF at a given 
aperture.
What is different is the image coverage between the two formats, and that takes us to 
the next matter.

#3. The issue becomes material when we're talking about relative magnification, i.e., 
the filling of a frame.  If the object fills a frame the same between 35mm and 4x5, 
there's a (roughly) 4-stop DOF difference that needs to be compensated for by
(a) adding more light, (b) adding more time, or (c) a combination of both.

I hope this is helpful to someone.


--

Collin Brendemuehl, KC8TKA

---
"Get over it."
Dr. Laura

--
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C41color film developing, how hard is it ?

[Jan van Wijk]

Hi,

Having added a 67II to my Pentax arsenal, and trying to 
get the whole process under control, I am thinking of
doing that last step myself too: develop the film myself.

However, until now, a few things have kept me from doing that:

1) I have some experience with B/W developing but not color.
2) For color, temperature is more critical 
3) The process is more complex for color
4) The chemicals are more expensive and not durable

Now my experience dates back over 20 years, so things might have changed :-)

I'd like to know how feasible it is to do your own development at home,
given the following:

- Use a small color-processor, like a JOBO
  This will make development more controllable I think

- Use one-time-use chemical sets (for one or two films)
  This will avoid keeping chemicals around to long, could be
  several weeks untill the next film is due ..

Question: Do such chemical sets exist (Amaloco ?) and how
expensive would that be ?

I would probably be developing 1 or 2 35mm or 120 format films
every few weeks ...

TIA, JvW

PS:
I target the C41 process (negatives) since these are 
better suited to scanning.




--
Jan van Wijk;   http://www.dfsee.com/gallery
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Fred]

>>> At the risk of sounding simplistic could it be the prism and
>>> the diopter settings?
>>
>> Are the labels for the LED's at the right side of the finder
>> clear, or are they out of focus, too?
>>
>> Fred

> Hi Fred,
>
> No. LED's are clear!

Then it's most likely due to mirror alignment, which is likely due
to incipient sticky mirror syndrome.  Therefore, a CLA is due in the
near future, since all of your critical focusing is going to be off
a bit until then (unless you were to compensate by just the right
amount in the he right direction), resulting in blurry photos
whenever the DOF is shallow.

Fred
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Stephen Moore]

Peter Smekal wrote:
 
> Who is Mr Murphy? Did that apply also to new LX's?

Mr. Murphy of "Murphy's Law" fame: "If something can 
go wrong, it will." The root of countless corollaries,
such as: "The likelihood of bread falling jelly-side
down is directly proportional to the cost of the carpet."

My own favorite: "Murphy was an optimist."


Cheers,
Stephen
_ 
Programmer who creates truth table writes Boole sheet
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RE: shooting fireworks

[John Mullan]

On Tue, 02 Jul 2002 11:15:30 -0400, Amita Guha wrote:

>> Why not try slow film and a tripod?  interesting effects that way.
>
>Hmmm...I hadn't thought of that. I do have a bunch of Kodak Gold 200
>and I was planning to use my tripod. I'll be in Greenport, LI for the
>4th.
>
>I just noticed there's a B setting on my Yashicamat. Now if I can just
>figure out where the cable attaches, I could have some fun with that
>as well. ;)
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>

If you haven't already found it, the cable release screws into the shutter release, at 
least it 
does on my 124G.

jm
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MZ-S built-in flash w/24mm f2

[Pat White]

There was a recent discussion about the flash coverage of the MZ-S's built-in flash, 
and why it was not recommended with the 24mm f2.  On the AOHC website, Dario tested 
the MZ-S, and posted a picture taken with that combination.  The picture is perfectly 
illuminated, even at the center foreground, where any lens-body-caused vignetting 
would be visible.  It appears Pentax was being overly cautious in their lens & 
built-in flash compatibility chart.

On another topic, I was surprised to read that Dario had trouble setting the AF sensor 
points, feeling that he needed two right hands, when it's easier to use the left 
fingertips to operate the AF point lock switch.  Don't mean to talk behind your back, 
Dario.  Please don't be offended.

Pat White
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Re: shooting fireworks

[Ayash Kanto Mukherjee]

Yep!
I have tried it and it works great. Try some long exposures; astonishing 
results.

- Ayash.

On Tue, 2 Jul 2002, Amita Guha wrote:

> Would 400 speed film be ok to shoot fireworks or should I get 800
> instead?
> 
> Thanks,
> Amita
> -
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Re: Scanning for PUG

[GLewis4457]

In a message dated 7/2/2002 9:12:55 AM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Subject: Re: Re: July PUG IR
> 
> 
> Hi David,
> 
> On Mon, 1 Jul 2002 13:37:47 -0400, David Brooks wrote:
> 
> >Thanks Wendy.I really like your March Road shot.
> >The main problem i was having was when i 
> >resized from a large dpi scan,300 or 600 dpi, 
> >in PS6(to the pug size of 600x400 and 75 k)the 
> >picture size was reduced to less than an inch 
> >by abit bigger than an inch.
> >Am i missing something with the size of file vs 
> >the constrants in image resize>???
> 
> Yes you are missing something important :-)
> 
> You could have changed that resized image (600x400 pixels) to
> the right "display size" by adjusting the DPI from 300 to something
> like 75 in photoshop. That way photoshop will show you a size that
> is valid for most monitors.  Do NOT resample doing this, or you will 
> change the number of pixels again!.
> 

Ihave been following this thread and have been very interested.  One of the 
reasons I have not submitted to PUG has been the hassle of getting an image 
to the right size for submittal.  I have a new Epson 2450, so I thought I 
would try all this out and see what happens.  In the Epson twain, under 
manual control, you can set what the original image is (color slide, print, 
b/s neg, etc) and then set the destination, one option is web/net.  When 
you select this option the dpi is automatically set to 96.  I tried a couple 
of 35mm color slides, 35mm b/w negs, and a b/w 120 6x6 neg. to see what would 
happen.  Each full frame.  In each case the scanner automatically adjusted 
the output to be under 600 dpi in any one direction, and the output looked 
really good on the screen.  It sure is simple once you know how.  Let the 
machine do the hard work.  Now I have no excuse for not submitting to PUG.

Jerry in Houston
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Peter Smekal]

>My guesses:
>
>0. The finder's diopter adjustment is set to something weird.
>1. The mirror can be out of alignment. This can be related to the well-known
>sticky mirror bug.
>2. The lens mount can be out of alignment. I don't think an LX should have
>such problems, but I've seen several (much cheaper) cameras with it.
>3. The screen may be out of it's place. Try to remove and re-insert it
>properly.
>
>
>Gabor

0. Checked. Is ok.
3.""
2. Hopefully not, sounds like something expensive to fix.
1. Seems plausible. Others had the same idea.

Thanks Gabor

Peter

Peter Smekal
Uppsala, Sweden
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Peter Smekal]

Hi Antti-Pekka,

Easy to fix? Is it a job for Pentax, or could you do it yourself?

Who is Mr Murphy? Did that apply also to new LX's?

Peter


>This problem is related with the sticky mirror problem.
>The rubber mirror rest bumpers have too much wear or they are mis-aligned,
>making
>the mirror rest in the wrong position. Easy to fix, but I recommend a complete
>CLA while the LX is in the service. The CLA will take care of the possibly
>lurking sticky mirror problem as well (according the Mr Murphy, the LX will
>start showing the sticky mirror problem a month after the purchase).
>
>Antti-Pekka


Peter Smekal
Uppsala, Sweden
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Peter Smekal]

Danke Heiko!

Your explanations seem plausible! Even if these things are difficult to see.

Peter

>Hi Heiko,
>
>on 02 Jul 02 you wrote:
>
>
>>Don't ask me for a source,
>
>Now you can ask;-) Here it is:
>
>http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/lxproblems.html
>
>--Start
>...
>Side Effects
>
>A small rest can be seen screwed to, and protruding from the wall of the
>LX mirror box when the mirror is locked up. The surface of this rest is
>covered with a pad of elastic material and generally if the shutter is
>sticky this pad will also show signs of deterioration and have become
>slightly compressed causing focus inaccuracies.
>
>When the mirror rest becomes compressed the mirror is effectively
>supported at a lower position which alters the plane of focus at the
>finder screen relative to the film plane. The effect can be seen when
>photographs captured at wide apertures show a plane of focus in front of
>the subject which was selected as the plane of focus through the finder
>or if infinity focus cannot be obtained through the finder.
>...
>End
>
>
>And further down:
>
>--Start
>...
>
>Excerpts from correspondence with other LX users
>...
>Thought you might like to know of another variant..
>
>I have had what I call type1 - the mirror doesn't move from rest
>immediately, accompanied by lack of infinity focus. Fixed very cheaply,
>locally.
>...
>End
>
>So it seems to be a side effect or variant of the sticky mirror problem.
>
>Regards,
>
>Heiko
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Peter Smekal
Uppsala, Sweden
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Peter Smekal]

>> At the risk of sounding simplistic could it be the prism and
>> the diopter settings?
>
>Are the labels for the LED's at the right side of the finder clear,
>or are they out of focus, too?
>
>Fred

Hi Fred,

No. LED's are clear!

Peter

Peter Smekal
Uppsala, Sweden
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RE: Darkroom books...

[tom]

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Timothy Sherburne
> Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 12:10 PM
> To: Pentax Discussion List
> Subject: Darkroom books...
>
>
> Hello all...
>
> I've decided to start some basic darkroom work. Waiting a
> over a week for my
> lab to develop, print and charge me $16 per roll is getting
> ridiculous.
> Right now, I'd like to keep it to developing black and
> white negs and prints
> up to 8x10.
>
> So, I'd like to start with some books on darkroom
> technique. What are your
> favorites? It looks like Tom Grill's "The essential
> darkroom book" is a
> popular option.
>

Tom Grimm. It's a prety good all-rounder, along with Suess' "Mastering
Black-And-White Photography: From Camera to Darkroom".

In addition to one of these, I'd definitely get "The Film Developing
Cookbook" by Anchell and Troop (the most used book of any I own - it's
got film/dev times, as well and the best time/temp chart for the US),
as well as either "The Photographer's Master Printing Course" by
Rudman or "Black and White: Photographic Printing Workshop" by Tarrant
and Bartlett.

The Adam's books are pretty good too, though a little dated IMHO.

tv
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Peter Smekal]

>At the risk of sounding simplistic could it be the
>prism and the diopter settings?

It helps a little to change the diopter settings, but spit image line still
do not align.

Thanks
Peter

Peter Smekal
Uppsala, Sweden
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Pesaro, Italy

[Raimo Korhonen]

Are there going to be any PDMLers in the Pesaro area during the next 2 weeks? I will. 
Would be nice to meet.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at http://www.uusikaupunki.fi/~raikorho
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Peter Smekal]

>So, please have a check on the alignment of the lens elements. It could be
>one reason for out of focus images at infinity.

Could be of course, but we have the same problem with different lenses.

Peter

Peter Smekal
Uppsala, Sweden
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Peter Smekal]

Thanks for the answer Mishka!

A different screen be a solution of course. It's mostly split image that
shows straight line being "non-alligned"

But also on the matte screen we can see the lack of sharpness. (Let's say
you focus on some letters on a wall some hundred meters away.) I checked
the screen, It seems to sit alright. Probably it's the mirror alignment,
although the mirror does not seem to stick.

Peter

Peter Smekal
Uppsala, Sweden
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Re: Darkroom books...

[Maris V. Lidaka Sr.]

Ansel Adams's series of books!

Maris

- Original Message -
From: "Timothy Sherburne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Pentax Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 11:10 AM
Subject: Darkroom books...


> Hello all...
>
> I've decided to start some basic darkroom work. Waiting a over a week for
my
> lab to develop, print and charge me $16 per roll is getting ridiculous.
> Right now, I'd like to keep it to developing black and white negs and
prints
> up to 8x10.
>
> So, I'd like to start with some books on darkroom technique. What are your
> favorites? It looks like Tom Grill's "The essential darkroom book" is a
> popular option.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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RE: APS film -- exposed or not? (was RE: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident)

[Peifer, William [OCDUS]]

Hi again folks,

Again, many thanks for your replies on x-ray fogging, APS film cartridge
construction, and visible (to the consumer) differences  between exposed and
unexposed APS cartridges.  Once again, I've learned something new thanks to
the collective wisdom and experience of the PDMLers.  As usual, much
appreciated!

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY
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Re: Darkroom books...

[Delano Mireles]

Hi Tim,

 Tom Grimm's Darkroom book is helpful in that it covers a wide range of
basics for the darkroom.  Another Step-by-Step book is titled "Step into
your darkroom" (or something like that).  There's also a ton of information
that can be found online - - e.g. http://www.photo.net forums.

Also just as an FYI this recently came up on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1363678721&ssPageName=ADM
E:B:SS:US:1


Good luck!

Delano


on 7/2/02 11:10 AM, Timothy Sherburne at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Hello all...
> 
> I've decided to start some basic darkroom work. Waiting a over a week for my
> lab to develop, print and charge me $16 per roll is getting ridiculous.
> Right now, I'd like to keep it to developing black and white negs and prints
> up to 8x10.
> 
> So, I'd like to start with some books on darkroom technique. What are your
> favorites? It looks like Tom Grill's "The essential darkroom book" is a
> popular option.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Mishka]

When I had a split image screen on my LX, *every* single lens that i
have showed (ever so slightly) different inf. focusing (some were
focusing beyond inf. mark, some before). After i put the frid screen,
all my worries disappeared :)
However if the focusing is bad to the point that you can actually see
it being out of focus on the matte field, that's probably a different
story. I don't think you can insert the screen wrong way up in there
(it has an assymetric tab), can be a number of things, like mirror
alignment. I'd check with KEH automated estimate service how much that
would cost.

Mishka

> From: Peter Smekal 
> Subject: LX Focussing probem 
> Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 05:37:04 -0700 
> 
> 
> My son is considering to buy an LX. He has even found one and has the
> chance to try it for a couple of days. Cosmetically it is really 
> minty and there is no sticky mirror AFAICS. There is one problem 
> though: when focussing to ƒ (infinite) the image in the viewfinder is

> not really sharp, neither on the matte screen, the microprism nor in 
> the split image. I don't think it depends on the lense. We have tried

> with different lenses.
> 
> We exposed one role of film today and I don't think it shows on the 
> images.
> But it still is anoying.
> 
> What could the problem be? Is it a common LX problem? Is it difficult
> or expensivee to fix? Could it depend on the way the screen is 
> inserted?
> 
> Thanks for any advice or help.

Peter
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Re: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149

[Mishka]

I have never said that. In fact, I have never had a chance to compare
it to that lens, as well as to A100/2.8. All I know that I was blown
away by detail, and sharpness, and everything else, after I looked at
the scans of the slides I got with VS1 105/2.5 (Provia100F scanned at
4000dpi)
Btw, don't know about Kiron, but the build and finish of VS1 105/2.5 is
superb.

Mishka

> From: Timothy Sherburne 
> Subject: Re: FS: Kiron 105/2.8 PK 1:1 macro lens, $149 
> Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 06:12:56 -0700 
> 
> 
> 
> So, in your opinion, it beats the VS1 90/2.5 Macro? I was under the
> impression that was the uber-macro (except for the A 100/2.8
Macro)...
> 
> t
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Darkroom books...

[Timothy Sherburne]

Hello all...

I've decided to start some basic darkroom work. Waiting a over a week for my
lab to develop, print and charge me $16 per roll is getting ridiculous.
Right now, I'd like to keep it to developing black and white negs and prints
up to 8x10.

So, I'd like to start with some books on darkroom technique. What are your
favorites? It looks like Tom Grill's "The essential darkroom book" is a
popular option.

Thanks,

Tim
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[Fred]

> At the risk of sounding simplistic could it be the prism and
> the diopter settings?

Are the labels for the LED's at the right side of the finder clear,
or are they out of focus, too?

Fred
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Re: More IR questions..

[Timothy Sherburne]

Yup. I was going to pick up the Lee 3x3 filter for $12. Oddly enough,
Kodak's 3x3 is $30. Geez.

t

On 7/2/02 7:09 AM, gfen wrote:

> On Mon, 24 Jun 2002, Timothy Sherburne wrote:
>> and Lee have 75cm square 87 polyester filters that you could cut down to
>> fit. They run about $12 to $15 bucks on B&H. I'm going to try this with a
> 
> Sho 'nuff, searching for 87 polyester turned up two, one $22, one at $12.
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Re: shooting fireworks

[Timothy Sherburne]

Sounds like my Yashica A; it requires a Cable Release Adapter (aka "leica
nipple"), click on the B&H link below for more info.

There is a small knurled bezel at the base of the shutter release button.
This unscrews, then you screw the adapter on in its place. The adapter takes
a regular mechanical shutter release cable.

I just got one of these in anticipation of the 4th.



t

On 7/2/02 8:28 AM, gfen wrote:

> On Tue, 2 Jul 2002, Amita Guha wrote:
>> I just noticed there's a B setting on my Yashicamat. Now if I can just
>> figure out where the cable attaches, I could have some fun with that
>> as well. ;)
> 
> On my 124, it screws into the shutter button itself. On a D I had for a
> (very) short period of time, it didn't at all, but instead used a "Leica
> nipple" connector, which I never saw, but presumably its a little bubble
> that connects above the entire button.
> 
> -g.
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Re: LX Focussing probem

[MPozzi]

At the risk of sounding simplistic could it be the
prism and the diopter settings?
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Re: shooting fireworks

[Timothy Sherburne]

Hi Amita...

I've recently been working on photographing large displays, and discovered
the following: Go for slow film (ISO 100 or so), a tripod and a shutter
release. Set your camera to its Bulb setting. Open the shutter when you see
the shell go up and close the shutter after a couple of bursts, between 3 to
10 seconds. Experiment, experiment, experiment.

Why slow film? Longer shutter times = less noticeable smoke and more
"streaks" or fire trails left by the fireworks. You also get the benefits of
fine grain for doing those 16x20 enlargements of the awesome pix you'll
take. ;)

A more interesting picture is done if you can get city lights or something
else in the frame, too. Meter and expose for those, then open the shutter
again for the fireworks. If your camera can't to multiple exposures on one
frame, then leave the shutter open and use a black cloth to cover the lens
to "paint" the overall.

It's really, really easy to overdo a frame by leaving the shutter open too
long. The light from the fireworks adds up quickly.

Lens selection depends on how close you are to the display and what else you
want to include. Scout out your location early (the day before is good) and
arrive well before the fireworks start, especially if you're close. There'll
be lots of competition for the good locations! Bring a small flashlight,
too, in case you drop something or spill your gear bag.

When printing, ask the printer to expose the frames for black skies. I'd
avoid mini-lab printing as you'll probably get washed out fireworks and
brown skies. Yuk.

Do a quick search on photo.net for this topic. There's dozens of threads
that cover this. All this and I don't have any examples of my own to show
you. I find it a big challenge to get a really good picture of fireworks.

t

On 7/2/02 7:11 AM, Amita Guha wrote:

> Would 400 speed film be ok to shoot fireworks or should I get 800
> instead?
> 
> Thanks,
> Amita
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RE: shooting fireworks

[gfen]

On Tue, 2 Jul 2002, Amita Guha wrote:
> I just noticed there's a B setting on my Yashicamat. Now if I can just
> figure out where the cable attaches, I could have some fun with that
> as well. ;)

On my 124, it screws into the shutter button itself. On a D I had for a
(very) short period of time, it didn't at all, but instead used a "Leica
nipple" connector, which I never saw, but presumably its a little bubble
that connects above the entire button.

-g.

-- 
http://www.infotainment.org
 "The destructive character is cheerful."  - Walter Benjamin
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RE: shooting fireworks

[Amita Guha]

> Do you have the National Geographic Field Guide?

Yes, I do. Thanks for reminding me - I forgot I had it. :) You're
right; there's some great advice in there.
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RE: shooting fireworks

[Amita Guha]

> Why not try slow film and a tripod?  interesting effects that way.

Hmmm...I hadn't thought of that. I do have a bunch of Kodak Gold 200
and I was planning to use my tripod. I'll be in Greenport, LI for the
4th.

I just noticed there's a B setting on my Yashicamat. Now if I can just
figure out where the cable attaches, I could have some fun with that
as well. ;)
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Re: shooting fireworks

[Robert Woerner]

Hi,

I photographed some fireworks last 4th of July using Kodak 100 speed print 
film (can't remember if it was Gold or Royal Gold)using my PZ1p and FA*24mm 
f2.0 and cable release. When the fireworks were launched I just held the 
shutter open for several seconds while the rockets exploded and trickled 
down. Pics came out great. (Get 36 exposure rolls.) Also, I used a tripod of 
course. You don't need fast film for good results. Slower is actually 
better.

Good luck.

Robert

>From: "Amita Guha" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: shooting fireworks
>Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 10:11:20 -0400
>
>Would 400 speed film be ok to shoot fireworks or should I get 800
>instead?
>
>Thanks,
>Amita
>-
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_
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Re: shooting fireworks

[Maris V. Lidaka Sr.]

Do you have the National Geographic Field Guide? If you do check pages
260-261.  If not let us know and I can provide the relevant information -
they make several good suggestions.

As to your question itself, they suggest 400 speed be exposed for 1/30
second at f/16 for a single burst.  If you will be scanning the film, my
suggestion would be to limit the speed to 400 - don't forget the night sky
surrounding the fireworks, which will probably scan with much grain (and
colored grain at that) with 800 film.

Maris

- Original Message -
From: "Amita Guha" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 9:11 AM
Subject: shooting fireworks


> Would 400 speed film be ok to shoot fireworks or should I get 800
> instead?
>
> Thanks,
> Amita
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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Re: shooting fireworks

[Ann Sanfedele]

Why not try slow film and a tripod?  interesting effects that way.

Last 4th of July Rob Studdart and his lady were here with me watching
them from
my roof -  still hoping he will get a pic or two from then up (NOT the
ones I took
shooting with his camera tho :)  )

My plan for this July 4th is to stay inside in the ac and away from
crowds.

ann

Amita Guha wrote:

> Would 400 speed film be ok to shoot fireworks or should I get 800
> instead?
>
> Thanks,
> Amita
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
> visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
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back from great mini vacation

[Ann Sanfedele]

if you haven't figured it out from my response to amita -
I'm back :)

annsan
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Re: APS film -- exposed or not? (was RE: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident)

[Rob Studdert]

On 2 Jul 2002 at 7:23, Stan Halpin wrote:

> Bill - everything I've read says NOT, repeat, NOT to carry your film through the
> metal detectors. You are more likely to have your film suffer damage that way.
> And do NOT pack film in a check-in bag.  The safest inspection is by hand, but
> the check-on bag x-ray seems fairly benign. The effect is cumulative, so you
> need to take a different approach on a long trip with many stopovers and many
> passes through the machine (ask for hand inspection, or buy the film on site, or
> at least process your film on site as you can) vs. a non-stop out-and-back trip
> where you could pretty safely just pass the film through the x-ray.

Stan,

A metal detector cannot damage photographic film and the magnetic field 
produced by the detector is simply too weak to cause any damage to magnetic 
storage media.

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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FS - Right price for Pentax equipment?

[Luis Pinar]

Hi all
As you may know, my country’s economy is devastated
and costs of film and development  have skyrocketed.
I’m out of photography for now (I have other
priorities) and am considering selling my photo
equipment in the U.S. market.
Could you please tell me how much do you think I can
ask for this, each item by itself or the whole lot?
(Shutterbug rating)

MX  Black  body  Good   Brassing, small dent on PP
housing, some scratches on focusing screen, shutter
and meter OK
Winder MX  EX - Battery door repaired (neatly),
works OK
K1000 body, Made in Japan EX + 
SMC - M 120 mm   2.8EX +
SMC - M 50 mm   1.4EX
SMC - M 40 mm   2.8EX + but for small dent (hardly
noticeable)
SMC - M 28 mm   2.8 EX +
Vivitar 17 – 28 mm   4 – 4.5 PK/A   EX -
Vivitar 70 – 210 mm   2.8 – 4 Series I Q – Dos PK/A 
EX  -
Tokina AT 500 mm   8 Reflex   PK EX +
Vivitar 2x – 4 EX - 
Asahi Pentax Bellows I  M 42 EX +, with Industar 50 mm
2.8, Pentax screw to K adapter, 42 – 49  reversing
ring, Magnifier – M 
Nissin 3200 GT Flash EX +
Pentax AF – 160 Flash EX
Many polarizing & skylight filters, stepping
rings,straps, caps, etc.
 
TIA
Luis
Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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Re: shooting fireworks

[Evan Hanson]

I'm planning on using 160.  If you're going to try to handhold I hear 800
works better.

Evan


From: "Amita Guha"
Subject: shooting fireworks


> Would 400 speed film be ok to shoot fireworks or should I get 800
> instead?
>
> Thanks,
> Amita
> -
-
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Re: APS film -- exposed or not? (was RE: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident)

[Rob Studdert]

On 2 Jul 2002 at 7:43, Peifer, William [OCDUS] wrote:

> Of course this does bring up an additional question.  Is it generally the
> case that the APS mini-lab processing machine cannot tell the difference
> between an exposed and an unexposed roll? 

The APS cartridge provides a visual indicator of film status, unexposed, 
partially exposed, full exposed and processed, there is also a coded foil 
visible on the outside of the canister that should be able to be read by any 
compliant processor.

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: More IR questions..

[gfen]

On Mon, 24 Jun 2002, Timothy Sherburne wrote:
> and Lee have 75cm square 87 polyester filters that you could cut down to
> fit. They run about $12 to $15 bucks on B&H. I'm going to try this with a

Sho 'nuff, searching for 87 polyester turned up two, one $22, one at $12.

-- 
http://www.infotainment.org
 "The destructive character is cheerful."  - Walter Benjamin
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shooting fireworks

[Amita Guha]

Would 400 speed film be ok to shoot fireworks or should I get 800
instead?

Thanks,
Amita
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Re: More IR questions..

[gfen]

On Mon, 24 Jun 2002, Timothy Sherburne wrote:
> One strategy you could try is to use a gelatin filter between the shutter
> plane and the film or behind the mirror and before the shutter plane. Kodak

I've been thinking about doing that, or finding an old, cheap rangefinder
and doing it that way.

> and Lee have 75cm square 87 polyester filters that you could cut down to
> fit. They run about $12 to $15 bucks on B&H. I'm going to try this with a

I, evidently, have no idea where to look on B&H, because I'll routinely
come up with things that cost 5 times or more that price. :)

> TLR that I got from a fellow list member; I can't find regular glass filters
> for it. Added benefits: You can compose and focus through the viewfinder
> without having to apply the filter later. Down side is that changing filters
> will be difficult to impossible until you finish the roll.

Does it use bay-1 filters? You should be able to find an adapter to
regular threaded, I picked one up at camera-depot.com (perhaps no dash, I
can't remember) for $19.95.


-- 
http://www.infotainment.org
 "The destructive character is cheerful."  - Walter Benjamin
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