Re: [RBW] Riv-riding motorcyclists?

[andrew hill]

Hi Peter,

I recommend a mid-power, mid weight, upright seated position, torquey bike.  
e.g. i think the importance of upright riding position, fairly neutral 
foot/weight position and handling, are similar in the Rivendell rider and 
motorcycler world.  maybe that's just me.  and I'll stretch by equating a combo 
of torque and flickability to bottom bracket drop.  ;)

anyways, you get the most control of the bike with those details, and the most 
stability.  it's important to have a bike that's forgiving in it's handling and 
acceleration curve while you are learning, that gives you good visibility.

Eg. something like a Triumph, or Honda CB-style could be good to learn.  That 
Yamaha would be a great one to play with in terms of "learning" to do 
around-town handling, if it runs but might not be big enough for safe / 
secure feeling highway use.  

You could get a decent used new-generation 750-1000cc Triumph for 3-6K, 
depending on where you are.  And they don't leak oil anymore.   I've got a 2000 
Triumph Thunderbird with 26K miles on it and very few problems, 900cc / 550lb 
bike / 6 gears ... Plenty big enough for anything.

-a

On Nov 7, 2011, at 2:46 PM, Peter Pesce wrote:

> My ratio is infinity:1 these days. I used to ride motorcycles a lot, but 
> haven't been on one in a few years. I did a number of summer tours with a 
> buddy - one lap of Lake Superior, another to Nova Scotia and PEI, down to 
> Deals Gap NC, but just kind of moved on. I still have a late 60's Ducati and 
> a '72 Yamaha XS-2 (the "Oil-Tight Triumph" as it was called in its day) in 
> the back of the garage waiting for me to get around to restoring them some 
> day... If I add up what I spent on bicycles in the last couple of years I 
> could easily have gotten one of them back on the road!
> 
> -Pete (pedal, previously petrol)
> 
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Re: [RBW] jaxed and craigslist

[andrew hill]

Yeah that's good one.

I use crazedlist to create a list of RSS feeds that I then import into a 
reader.   

Works a bit better than inside a webpage, and doesn't break b/c it just 
recreates CL's regular RSS for you.


On Oct 4, 2011, at 2:05 PM, Bruce Baker wrote:

> Here is a search engine that I use now that there is no JaXed
> http://www.crazedlist.org/
> 
> On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 4:14 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> I found a '94 XO-3 through JaXed..a very hard to find model which I was 
> looking for to replace one that was stolen many years ago. No JaXed, no 
> Bstone. It sucks that Craigslist freaked out.
>  
>  
> 
> 

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Re: [RBW] New Web Site/iPad

[andrew hill]

ya, it comes up as a mobile interface now; product categories, cart link, 
contact us, etc.

-a

On Sep 26, 2011, at 11:13 AM, rlc5925 wrote:

> Anybody using an iPad? If so are you able to pull up the website? I'm
> have some issues. The site will pull up but I'm getting a listing of
> sell item categories. No pictures, no notes/writing etc. This is not
> good for my well being, thanks.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Fitting on the Sam Hillborne

[andrew hill]

I had a 56 Sam.. and I've got an 84.5 pbh.. standover wasn't a problem on the 
Sam, and I'm long-waisted so the tt fit was pretty good too (i'm about 5'11).  
This was with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremes.

For comparison, a 52 Bombadil, 59 Canti-Rom, and a 58 SimpleOne all fit better 
than the 56 Sam.

best,
andrew

On Sep 23, 2011, at 10:04 AM, Peter M wrote:

> Need someone who owns a HIllborne who can tell me what the real
> standover is on the 56cm. Called Riv and was told that it would be a
> bit too big for someone with a 84cm pbh but have heard from other
> people that it should be fine with just a few cm clearance. I ride a
> 58cm raleigh international right now but wanted to move up to
> something more sturdy for a bigger guy. I was also thinking of the San
> Marcos in 54cm but not sure if that can support 240lbs of my fat ass.
> Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks
> 
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Re: [RBW] Carrying yoga mat on your Rivendell?

[andrew hill]

Clearly this is justification for buying a new, double top tube Rivendell, so 
you can tuck it btw the tubes.  :)


On Aug 27, 2011, at 4:00 PM, Peter Pesce wrote:

> Is this the same kind of thin mat I see sticking out of purses and packs all 
> over Manhattan? If so, I really can't imagine carrying that little thing on 
> yor back would cramp your style. 
> Do you really need a $100 piece of hardware to carry the same thing that 
> every 19 year old model wanna be schleps up and down park avenue all day? 
> C'mon people, where's that creative spirit?
> How about strapping it to your top tube with a couple of $1 pieces of Velcro? 
> 

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Re: [RBW] Carrying yoga mat on your Rivendell?

[andrew hill]

how about in a cross-shoulder sling?  :)

On Aug 27, 2011, at 1:57 PM, Tim Whalen wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> I've tried a couple of sort of adhoc ways of carrying my yoga mat on my Riv 
> but they have been awkward.  Does anyone have an easy and safe method for 
> carrying theirs?  I'd rather ride to class but end up driving because of that 
> awkward pound or so of rubber mat.
> Cheers,
> Tim
> 
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[RBW] FS: 56cm Sam Hillborne, orange, early single top tube

[andrew hill]

Hi folks,

I'll clean it up and take pics this weekend, but I'm selling sell my Sam 
Hillborne - here are the details.

It's a 56 cm, Orange, single top tube.  I think this one was the last sold of 
the first run (?) of orange ones, and has the the 3-dot fork.  
Feb 2010 invoice on the build from Rivendell.

Typical Rivendell-performed build, Rich-built beefy wheels, hybrid road/trail 
setup with Bullmoose bars..Invoice was $2600 new and I've added a few hundred 
in parts since.  Has minor beausage, but is straight and true and unrusted - 
just a few nicks in the paint here and there from leaning against a tree, being 
dropped on the grass once, etc.  Still in great shape, but I'm riding my 59 Rom 
a lot more these days, so someone else should have this Sam, I think :)  

Build: 

Nitto Bullmoose, dull brite (regular not extra-wide ones)
Woodies (dark)
Mavic A719's with Marathon Supreme 40s (plenty of tread left > 1500 miles on 
them and don't look worn much).
Deore XT hubs, 36 spoke lacing to rims
Bar end Ultegra shifters in Paul MTB thumbies
175 Sugino triple, 46/36/24, 8-speed cassette 11-32
Campy front der, Shimano Deore RR long rear der
Tektro cantis / levers

And I've added:
Brass striker bell
Nitto wayback stem
Brooks B17 Special in Green with copper rails
Grip King pedals
Planet Bike bottle cages (2) 
German mirror

The added parts push this above a $3K build, I think.. 
How about half-price for the ~ 1500 miles I put on it?  :

Soo... Cash/pickup in Los Angeles: $1500.
Paypal / Shipped in the continental USA: $1600 (I'll have my LBS pack/ship).

Best,
Andrew
(310) 975 5870


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Re: [RBW] Re: New SimpleOne owners, how are you liking the Dos Eno?

[andrew hill]

I'm running the ENO Double/Double (39/36 and 16/19).  I've mostly used the 
39/16 everywhere.  I've not tried to cross-thread the pair front to back - 
don't really see how 39/19 or 36/16 would be more useful than just dropping to 
36/19 when necessary.

The taller gear setup is just fine for flat city riding where you have to stop 
every couple of blocks but a bit too easy for continuous spinning.  e.g. I'm 
looking for a 14t or less freewheel for the other side of the flip/flop now for 
those longer "uninterrupted" rides.

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Re: [RBW] OT: Bike Storage

[andrew hill]

I've used the Topeak Dual Touch in two different apartments - works great.
Currently holding a CantiRom and a Sam. :)

Holds up to 4 bikes with optional extra hooks (best for 2). Doesn't mark floors 
or ceilings much, really good use of space for 2 bikes, at least.  

3 or 4 require the pole to be more like 2.5 feet away from a wall instead of 1" 
or less, so limits your options for living space storage for more than 2.  

I've got mine pretty stiffly extended against a wooden (slanted) ceiling, and 
it's not shifted during a few small earthquakes I could feel :)


Best,
Andrew

On Jun 15, 2011, at 7:31 AM, jandrews_nyc wrote:

> Hello,
> I've moved to a new, smaller apartment, but with very high ceilings.
> So, Given that my wife and I have 4 bikes, including 2 Rivs, we've
> decided to go the bike hoist route.  These are the devices that fix to
> a joist in the ceiling that allow the bike to be lifted up and locked
> in.
> Does anyone have any recommendations on particular units?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Jason
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Watter bottle recommendations?

[andrew hill]

I've found the VO cages to be underwhelming in build quality - I've had 3 
different styles (type I, II, and moderniste) and two of them have separated at 
the welds, and one of the three wasn't even close to "true" either - e.g. 
crooked lines set-up pre-weld (one of the type I/II - forget which).   


On Jun 15, 2011, at 1:05 PM, Bill Gibson (III) wrote:

> I have and daily enjoy my Klean Kanteens (sp?) both single and double wall 
> bottles. The folks at the company seems to be great, too, it might be a 
> family design and sourcing operation, except the bottles aren't made locally, 
> as in the USA. They sent me a recall notice for one of my bottle caps, then 
> sent me two replacements even though the cap I sent in wasn't defective, so I 
> bought another Klean Kanteen. I'm using them in some Camelback neoprene 
> sleeves in off bike use, and in my Quickbeam's bottle cages in on bike use.  
> I got my Quickeam's cages from Velo Orange. 
> 
> http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/water-bottles-cages.html
> 
> I like what Velo Orange is up to almost as much a what Rivendell is up to and 
> want to support both, but...
> 
> I can't think of a better use of the wool in an 
> all-used-up-and-can't-be-darned-any-more-sock-or-sweater than an evaporative 
> cooling sleeve for a feeder bottle. Boil the wool, then use scissors, then 
> sew it up to fit. 
> 
> I remember bike shops selling little wool bottle socks just for that purpose 
> decades ago. At this time of year they dry out in about 1/2 hour in Southern 
> Arizona. Remember those canteens with the wool serape pattern covers? Works.
> 
> On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:35 AM, Rene Sterental  wrote:
> Do they fit on KK Iris cages? I thought they didn't...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 4
> 
> On Jun 15, 2011, at 10:41 AM, Zack  wrote:
> 
> > Robert:  You should try one of the double-walled insulated KK
> > bottles!  They are awesome.  You can keep coffee hot and water cold
> > for a pretty good amount of time.  In my experience it's a little
> > better at keeping coffee hot for a while than water cold, but it's
> > still a vast improvement over the single walled KK.
> >
> > -Z
> >
> > On Jun 15, 1:19 pm, "Robert F. Harrison"  wrote:
> >> I use KKs but I've always put a wet sock around them. This not only stops
> >> the rattling but keeps the water much cooler in the Hawaiian sun. With the
> >> right sock it's not terribly unattractive and as it works well I don't 
> >> worry
> >> about how it looks.
> >>
> >> http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2787/4355453296_13cf567091_z.jpg
> >>
> >> Aloha!
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 4:54 AM, Darin G.  wrote:
> >>> Those of you using the Kleen Kanteen--do they rattle around?  I
> >>> suspect there is a difference between being secure in the cage and not
> >>> making noise every time you go over a bump.
> >>
> >>> On Jun 15, 6:14 am, John Aydelotte  wrote:
>  +1 for the King Kage Iris.  I have them on almost all my bikes.  They
>  fit the Klean Kanteen bottles extremely well.
> >>
>  I actually met the guy who makes them at the Rocky Mountain Bicycle
>  Festival this past weekend.  He made most of a cage in front of me in
>  under a minute (not including the part that holds it onto the bike --
>  I think that's welded on).  I am happy to support a local businessman
>  (Durango, CO) who makes such a great product.
> >>
>  On Jun 15, 5:05 am, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> >>
> > On Tue, 2011-06-14 at 21:59 -0700, cyclotourist wrote:
> >> King Cage Iris cages.  Not as elegant as the Nittos, but still look
> >> interesting and have held up well so far (bought earlier this year).
> >> They carry KK bottles fine, with no need for twine or leather.
> >>
> > The King Iris is the best cage there is for an under-the-downtube
> >>> upside
> > down mount, as the weight of the bottle cannot pull the cage open.
> >>
> >>> --
> >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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> >>
> >> --
> >> Robert Harrison
> >> rfharri...@gmail.com
> >> statrix.com
> >
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Re: [RBW] Re: Watter bottle recommendations?

[andrew hill]

I just checked.. the 20 oz Kleen Kanteen fits pretty perfectly into an Arundel, 
and doesn't wiggle around.

Best,
Andrew

On Jun 15, 2011, at 9:02 AM, Karl Fundenberger wrote:

> Those Arundel cages look pretty nice, but it looks like I'd have to
> use a bottle with the indentation - whereas the King Iris might allow
> me to use a taller cylindrical stainless steel bottle, like the bigger
> Kleen Kanteens. I think I'll check one of those out. Thanks, all!
> 
> And wow, I could have titled this thread a little better, heh... I
> must have had 3-watt dynamo lights on the brain.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Watter bottle recommendations?

[andrew hill]

Check out Arundel stainless steel water bottle cages - they are about $25 - 
really quite nice and retro style.


> On Tue, Jun 14, 2011 at 11:18 AM, Karl Fundenberger 
>  wrote:
> Hello all, I'm new here. As for my Riv cred, I commute on an early
> Road Standard.
> 
> I have been using Blackburn water bottle cages on my bikes for the
> last few years because I like their classic look, and the fact that
> you can easily secure them to a bike without braze-ons. However, I
> have bent two of them through normal use, and now my water bottles
> tend to flop around and fall out.
> 
> What would you recommend for a less-flimsy water bottle cage? I've
> been using the smaller size Kleen Kanteen bottle and some standard
> plastic bottles.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA
> 
> ...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would probably 
> benefit more from
> improving their taste than from improving their performance. - RTMS
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Simple weekend project.

[andrew hill]

it's about 82.6 cm at the middle of the tt, with Mara Racer 35c's pumped up to 
70psi.  
goes up to 84 as you slide forward.

so it's comparable with the QB numbers.   

i was thinking 56 based on the charts, and was advised to go to 58 or even 60.
and per the site suggestion my pbh of 84.5 minus 23-25 is a 60 cm frame..

extremely glad i didn't go 60 - would have been wy too big, with a negative 
standover and much too long top tube.  the 56 would have been fine too, i 
think, with a regular 10 cm stem instead of the rise-giving dirtdrop.  i've got 
short arms and legs, and a long torso (5'11) - this 58 with dd stem and rando 
drops stretches me out plenty far, moreso and with the seat not as far back as 
on the Sam / Rom (same seats/posts) with their bullmoose / m-bars, respectively.

best,
andrew

On May 30, 2011, at 4:22 PM, redsydude wrote:

> 
> Could you measure and report the mid top tube standover of your
> simpleone explicitly?  The quickbeam chart says 83 and 85 cm standover
> for the 58 and 60 cm bikes respectively. In one of the rivendell
> messages they said PBH minus 23 or 25 cm for the simpleone.  That
> would put you (and me) on a 60 cm bike. Since the simpleone isn't
> expanded geometry, I was planning to go as big as possible but
> something doesn't quite add up.
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom
> 
> On May 29, 8:54 pm, andrew hill  wrote:
>> ok - she is built:  my 58cm DosSimple:
>> 
>> http://salamander.net/stage/SimpleOne/(picture names starting with "built").
>> 
>> first impressions:
>> 
>> - rides like glass.  even more than the cantiRom or Sam Hillborne I have.
>> - these wheels feels as stiff as the 36 hole Deore XT Mavic 765 on my Sam, 
>> but feel as light and  accelerate as easily as the 20 spoke aero Neuvation 
>> wheels on my Rom.
>> - even without racks this one feels extra rigid and comfy both at the same 
>> time, compared to my others.
>> - doesn't want to stop.  the momentum on flat ground is just insane, and 
>> even going up hill it feels easy.
>> - even more eager than the Rom, totally absent the laid back sedate glide 
>> feel of the Sam.
>> - i love the noise of the freewheel.  i feel 12 again.
>> - much less standover than i expected in a 58cm.  i've got like.. .5 cm, 
>> maybe in keens, and none barefoot (pbh of 84.5).
>> - a taller, narrower ride than i expected, partly due to the 10cm DD stem 
>> and 45cm rando bars... i'll probably get used to it, but i'd sure love if 
>> these were a couple cm wider on the flats.  the flared drops, however, are 
>> just about perfect, and the Sram Road levers' flare nicely meets that of the 
>> rando bars.
>> - it feels like i'm up a lot higher than on the 56 Sam w bullmose or 59 Rom 
>> w 7cm lugged + m-bars, though "balancing" on the Simple is easier (on Mara 
>> Racer 35s, compared to the Sam with Mara Sup 40s and the Rom with Mara Racer 
>> 30s).
>> - 38 x 16 gearing won't be too easy, which i was concerned about... wonder 
>> how the long final hill in my commute is going to be - don't think i'll have 
>> to change rings, but...
>> - installing the brakes and cables this time was a lot easier, now that i've 
>> done it wrong on at least two other bikes.  
>> - a "4th hand" makes adjusting the straddle cable trivial.
>> - i should have sprung for a WI chainring lockring tool before starting the 
>> build. the "alternative" 5-pin Park one they recommend really isn't ideal.
>> - the Tektro CR720 brake pads hit the inside of the fork/chainstays when 
>> straddle is released.  that's the way Rivendell build my Sam, it turns out, 
>> with these same brakes, so i guess that's ok.
>> - i'm suddenly concerned that my other two Rivendells aren't going to get 
>> much love this summer.
>> 
>> still to install (except for bar tape, this is all pending arrival in the 
>> mail):
>> ---
>> - BG clips, ss
>> - Tubus Logo, ti
>> - lights
>> - orange newbaums and shellac
>> - small right side drop bar end mirror
>> - and i'll probably add a mini-front rack as well... th
>> 
>> - i may abandon these bars for m-bars.  
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Simple weekend project.

[andrew hill]

ok - she is built:  my 58cm DosSimple:

http://salamander.net/stage/SimpleOne/ (picture names starting with "built").

first impressions:

- rides like glass.  even more than the cantiRom or Sam Hillborne I have.
- these wheels feels as stiff as the 36 hole Deore XT Mavic 765 on my Sam, but 
feel as light and  accelerate as easily as the 20 spoke aero Neuvation wheels 
on my Rom. 
- even without racks this one feels extra rigid and comfy both at the same 
time, compared to my others.
- doesn't want to stop.  the momentum on flat ground is just insane, and even 
going up hill it feels easy.
- even more eager than the Rom, totally absent the laid back sedate glide feel 
of the Sam.
- i love the noise of the freewheel.  i feel 12 again.
- much less standover than i expected in a 58cm.  i've got like.. .5 cm, maybe 
in keens, and none barefoot (pbh of 84.5). 
- a taller, narrower ride than i expected, partly due to the 10cm DD stem and 
45cm rando bars... i'll probably get used to it, but i'd sure love if these 
were a couple cm wider on the flats.  the flared drops, however, are just about 
perfect, and the Sram Road levers' flare nicely meets that of the rando bars. 
- it feels like i'm up a lot higher than on the 56 Sam w bullmose or 59 Rom w 
7cm lugged + m-bars, though "balancing" on the Simple is easier (on Mara Racer 
35s, compared to the Sam with Mara Sup 40s and the Rom with Mara Racer 30s). 
- 38 x 16 gearing won't be too easy, which i was concerned about... wonder how 
the long final hill in my commute is going to be - don't think i'll have to 
change rings, but...
- installing the brakes and cables this time was a lot easier, now that i've 
done it wrong on at least two other bikes.  
- a "4th hand" makes adjusting the straddle cable trivial.
- i should have sprung for a WI chainring lockring tool before starting the 
build. the "alternative" 5-pin Park one they recommend really isn't ideal.
- the Tektro CR720 brake pads hit the inside of the fork/chainstays when 
straddle is released.  that's the way Rivendell build my Sam, it turns out, 
with these same brakes, so i guess that's ok.
- i'm suddenly concerned that my other two Rivendells aren't going to get much 
love this summer.

still to install (except for bar tape, this is all pending arrival in the mail):
---
- BG clips, ss
- Tubus Logo, ti
- lights
- orange newbaums and shellac
- small right side drop bar end mirror
- and i'll probably add a mini-front rack as well... th

- i may abandon these bars for m-bars.  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Simple weekend project.

[andrew hill]

thanks Matt - i felt the same way .. was first "eh" about grey green instead of 
brick red, but now that I see it I love it.

some additional pics added to: (highest numbered ones):
http://salamander.net/stage/SimpleOne/

with a couple closeups of the drive-train, all taken with a flash late last 
night.
 
these are pretty narrow-Q cranks.. the only drawback in my book (that and I had 
to hunt high and low for 170mm versions - everyone seemed to be out, so i 
didn't buy the drivetrain en-toto but pieced it together from different online 
vendors).  if the Q is an issue, figure i'll add some 20mm kneesavers.. think 
it's arround 160 now (w 113mm BB).  and i'll also be adding some Bruce Gordon 
stainless clips to those pedals too - w/o any clips these WI platforms hang 
upside down, which isn't optimal.

ride photos may have to wait a few days - still have the brakes to do, and my 
hands are pretty beat from wrestling with the chain yesterday (had never broken 
one before - took a while to figure out how to do it properly).  

will prob get the cantis hung tonight, and the brake cabling run tomorrow..  
so action shots either later monday or prob wednesday :) 
(i teach all day Tuesdays; no time for riding that day).

and still have bar wrap, a bar end mirror, and tubus Logo rack to slap on.  
will prob be another week or more before all the lagging parts (rack, mirror, 
bell, toeclips) have arrived and are in place.

best,
andrew

On May 29, 2011, at 12:17 PM, newenglandbike wrote:

> I gotta say, as someone who was kind of bummed when they decided not
> to go with the original dark red color, the green is sweet..   solid
> enamel-type colors always look good on bikes.Those cranks are
> wicked nice.
> 
> 
> -Matt
> 
> 
> On May 29, 2:45 pm, charlie  wrote:
>> Ride photos.  : ) Lets see em !
>> 
>> On May 29, 11:42 am, andrew hill  wrote:
>> 
>>> hi Jeff,
>> 
>>> thanks - that's a White Industries ENO crank.
>> 
>>> boom on,
>>> andrew
>> 
>>> On May 29, 2011, at 8:53 AM, Jeffrey wrote:
>> 
>>>> Wow, that is beautiful! I had a deposit down for a 56 but after
>>>> looking at my drive train options closely, I realized it probably
>>>> wouldn't be a good choice for my hilly commute.  Your pics have me
>>>> second-guessing my decision!
>> 
>>>> What crank is that?
>> 
>>>> Reverend Rumblefish lover, eh? I am a bassist and always liked the
>>>> look of their basses and they got great reviews. Never had one in my
>>>> hands 'tho.
>> 
>>>> Can't wait to see the finished build!
>> 
>>>> Jeff
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Simple weekend project.

[andrew hill]

hi Jeff,

thanks - that's a White Industries ENO crank.

boom on,
andrew

On May 29, 2011, at 8:53 AM, Jeffrey wrote:

> Wow, that is beautiful! I had a deposit down for a 56 but after
> looking at my drive train options closely, I realized it probably
> wouldn't be a good choice for my hilly commute.  Your pics have me
> second-guessing my decision!
> 
> What crank is that?
> 
> Reverend Rumblefish lover, eh? I am a bassist and always liked the
> look of their basses and they got great reviews. Never had one in my
> hands 'tho.
> 
> Can't wait to see the finished build!
> 
> Jeff
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Simple weekend project.

[andrew hill]

thanks :) 

two more pics added to that directory, now that i've got the drivetrain 
together.
and speaking of color... i now need some touch up paint (used a hook spanner 
instead of the WI bb tool).  

anyways, this one shows the drivetrain, sorta:
http://salamander.net/stage/SimpleOne/IMG_2788.jpg

and this one is zoomed out, showing more Naylor-esqe stuff ;)
http://salamander.net/stage/SimpleOne/IMG_2789.jpg

-a

On May 28, 2011, at 5:29 PM, rex wrote:

> rivendells and a naylor cab. great taste
> 
> On May 28, 7:10 pm, Lee  wrote:
>> Hi Andrew. If you are using two cogs with different tooth-counts on
>> your free/free hub, you need to make sure the chain length can
>> accommodate both cogs. The larger tooth cog will sit closer to the
>> bottom bracket along the track ends, and the smaller tooth cog will
>> sit further away, given the same length of chain. So, just make sure
>> the chain length allows either cog to fit along the track ends when in
>> use. Other than that, having the wheel sit closer to the bottom
>> bracket may help with climbing a bit.
>> 
>> Have fun. I wish I had your project facing me this weekend (instead of
>> the Quickbeam clean-up I have planned but am now ignoring).
>> 
>> Lee
>> SF, CA
>> 
>> On May 28, 3:49 pm, andrew hill  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> just added two more pics to the 
>>> directory:http://salamander.net/stage/SimpleOne/
>> 
>>> the ones with numeric names are sans-flash.
>> 
>>> the first pic shows the wheels - velocity fusion laced to Phil Wood 
>>> free/free.
>>> have some Marathon Racers in 35C for em, too.
>> 
>>> it's a 58cm.
>> 
>>> if i i might solicit some advice?  this is my first single-speed.. anyone 
>>> have pointers about chain length? i was going to just put the axle about 
>>> half-way down the dropouts and adjust the brakes and chain length to that.. 
>>> any reason not to?
>> 
>>> best,
>>> andrew
>> 
>>> On May 28, 2011, at 3:41 PM, jandrews_nyc wrote:
>> 
>>>> Do you have a pic taken without the flash to better illustrate the
>>>> color?
>> 
>>>> it looks great,
>>>> what size is that?
>>>> did you have the wheels already?
>> 
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>>>> -
>> 
>> - Show quoted text -
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Re: [RBW] Simple weekend project.

[andrew hill]

it's the Minoura that Rivendell sells, without the extra arm piece they include.
my rebate this year bought that, if i recall correctly :)


-a


On May 28, 2011, at 3:23 PM, Alex Zeibot wrote:

> Gorgeous. May I ask what bike stand is that?
> 
> On May 28, 2011, at 4:32 PM, andrew hill  wrote:
> 
>> Let the building begin:
>> 
>> http://salamander.net/stage/SimpleOne/letthebuildingbegin.jpg
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Simple weekend project.

[andrew hill]

oh and no, i didn't have the wheels already.  

called up Phil Wood right after i put the frame deposit down, and ordered 
these.  

even with a delay in getting silver colored rims from Velocity, Phil got me the 
wheels pretty quickly, and they arrived on thursday with the frame arriving 
friday.   that's why i figured i was fated to build it up today :)

best,
andrew

On May 28, 2011, at 3:49 PM, andrew hill wrote:

> just added two more pics to the directory:
> http://salamander.net/stage/SimpleOne/
> 
> the ones with numeric names are sans-flash.
> 
> the first pic shows the wheels - velocity fusion laced to Phil Wood 
> free/free. 
> have some Marathon Racers in 35C for em, too.
> 
> it's a 58cm.
> 
> if i i might solicit some advice?  this is my first single-speed.. anyone 
> have pointers about chain length? i was going to just put the axle about 
> half-way down the dropouts and adjust the brakes and chain length to that.. 
> any reason not to?
> 
> best,
> andrew
> 
> On May 28, 2011, at 3:41 PM, jandrews_nyc wrote:
> 
>> Do you have a pic taken without the flash to better illustrate the
>> color?
>> 
>> it looks great,
>> what size is that?
>> did you have the wheels already?
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Simple weekend project.

[andrew hill]

just added two more pics to the directory:
http://salamander.net/stage/SimpleOne/

the ones with numeric names are sans-flash.

the first pic shows the wheels - velocity fusion laced to Phil Wood free/free. 
have some Marathon Racers in 35C for em, too.

it's a 58cm.

if i i might solicit some advice?  this is my first single-speed.. anyone have 
pointers about chain length? i was going to just put the axle about half-way 
down the dropouts and adjust the brakes and chain length to that.. any reason 
not to?

best,
andrew

On May 28, 2011, at 3:41 PM, jandrews_nyc wrote:

> Do you have a pic taken without the flash to better illustrate the
> color?
> 
> it looks great,
> what size is that?
> did you have the wheels already?
> 
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Re: [RBW] Simple weekend project.

[andrew hill]

It's a big darker in person - that pic's flash blows the color out just a wee 
bit.
but the shading is almost like the old Coleman stove green, which is pretty 
nice.

best,
andrew

On May 28, 2011, at 3:07 PM, James Warren wrote:

> 
> That green is great.
> 
> I've always "kind of" liked the Atlantis color. This green is like the 
> "really like" version.
> 
> 
> On May 28, 2011, at 2:32 PM, andrew hill wrote:
> 
>> Let the building begin:
>> 
>> http://salamander.net/stage/SimpleOne/letthebuildingbegin.jpg
>> 
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[RBW] Simple weekend project.

[andrew hill]

Let the building begin:

http://salamander.net/stage/SimpleOne/letthebuildingbegin.jpg

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Re: [RBW] Re: For Sale: Bridgestone RB1 in perfect condition

[andrew hill]

Just some feedback on price - it's of course what you think it's worth, but 
another RB 1 near me has spent months on CL not selling, at a lower price:
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/bik/2395444580.html

Best,
Andrew

On May 22, 2011, at 5:51 AM, JGS wrote:

> Here are hi res photos!
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/63188746@N06/sets/72157626777939036/
> 
> On May 22, 8:43 am, JGS  wrote:
>> http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/2395628367.html
>> 
>> Hey there,
>> 
>> I'm finally getting around to selling by RB1 which is very sad but I
>> hope someone will enjoy riding it more often than I do.  I bought it a
>> couple of years ago b/c I wanted to have a go fast bike to exercise on
>> and I also just thought it was beautiful and had wanted to have one
>> forever.  Truth is, I usually ride my Atlantis and I could use the
>> money to buy a new camera!
>> 
>> I'm basically selling it for what I bought it for.  Actually for a bit
>> of a loss after replacing the rear wheel and adding a few Nitto bits.
>> Curious to know if folks think this is a reasonable price.  I know I
>> was happy to pay that when I came across this one b/c it was the exact
>> model I'd wanted.
>> 
>> Anyway, hope someone will enjoy it.  I'd love to sell it to someone on
>> the list and would come to an arrangement for shipping if I thought it
>> was going to a good home!
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: need ideas for versatile touring/commuting bars other than rando/drops

[andrew hill]

i've realize now i've created the same sort of H-bars with Bullmoose bars and 
mtn bar-ends slid down towards the middle (and covered in cork - my submission 
for the cork postcard).

you can also reverse the direction of the bar ends, move them, etc., so that 
give you more options, e.g. more narrow and forward gives you a aero tuck 
almost, if you want it.  wider gives you a comfy shoulder rotation from flat 
bar. 

prob work better on a narrower 150cm bullmoose (earlier).   but they really 
aren't as large as they first appear.

i'm also a +1 for mustache bars.  i used reverse bar-end brakes with m-bars on 
my Rom, but added dummy lever stubs for the "hoods" position to keep the hand 
positions open.

best,
andrew

On May 17, 2011, at 5:56 PM, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

> Titec H Bars... natural hand position with multiple hand placement
> options... love em, especially with mountain brifters
> 
> On May 17, 7:03 pm, Frankwurst  wrote:
>> M bars it seems are either love or hate. I love'em. rode a 500 mile
>> tour on them and would do it again tomorrow. To me, if you've never
>> used them they are worth a try.
>> 
>> On May 17, 3:42 pm, "cyclotour...@gmail.com" 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> Try Moustache Bars  
>>> http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-moustache-bar/16-028
>> 
>>> Folks tend to love or hate them, hence a vibrant re-sell market for
>>> them :-)  Get a stem 1 or 2 cm shorter if you're going to try them.
>>> I liked them a lot, but missed the extra change of posture a drop bar
>>> gives you during long rides (>30miles).
>> 
>>> There is also On-One Midge/Soma Junebug that have shallower drops.
>>> Those are love/hate as well, so YMM(definitely)V.
>> 
>>> On May 17, 11:09 am, canali  wrote:
>> 
 just looking to experiement with a bar that will be good for both long
 distance touring as well as everyday commuting.
 ...the albatross seems a bit wide for me
>> 
 reason: my bike is a tad long (i should be on a 51 vs 53 atlantis) so
 drops are a bit of a reach with 80-90cm stem.- Hide quoted text -
>> 
>>> - Show quoted text -
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Marathon Supreme Input please

[andrew hill]

I inflate them to around 65psi, and still find them sluggish.

best,
andrew

On May 16, 2011, at 9:45 PM, charlie wrote:

> You need more air, try 60 psi. I realized one day that I hadn't
> checked the pressure and was riding with 50-55 psi on pavement and
> they felt sluggish. A mere 10 psi more made a noticeable difference.
> 
> On May 16, 7:02 pm, EricP  wrote:
>> Have mostly had a set of 700x40 on the Hillborne.  The tires are very
>> reliable.   There are times when they do seem sluggish as Andrew Hill
>> states.  Still can't figure it out as the tire seems light enough.
>> Might be the casing.  Usually have the tires inflated to 40 front
>> 45-50 rear.  Am 225 with high bars so more weight on the rear (of the
>> bike, that is).
>> 
>> Eric Platt
>> St. Paul, MN
>> 
>> On May 16, 7:02 pm, charlie  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> I have the 700x40's and love them. For me they roll fast at 70psi rear
>>> and 65 psi front. I weigh about 260 now and need the wide tire. They
>>> seem as fast as my other bike with 32 mm Panaracer Ribmo's @ 90 psi.
>>> I think it depends on your weight but lets face it, there is only a
>>> few mm difference. I say go wide with pride.
>> 
>>> On May 16, 7:39 am, Mitch Browne  wrote:
>> 
>>>> Currently commute daily 16 miles round trip on my 58 Atlantis with
>>>> 47mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.  I've been pretty happy with the
>>>> Schwalbes and have them on an XO-1 26x1.25 , Expedition, and Miyata
>>>> 1000 700x32's mostly for lazy flat protection.
>> 
>>>> I've ordered a set of long board fenders that won't accomodate the
>>>> 47's. I am trying to decide on 700x35 or 700x40 Marathon Supremes for
>>>> the summer at least. I like the bigger  tires since I fear no root,
>>>> rock, or limb on my mostly flat ride in.
>> 
>>>> I want to order the Supremes this week, can anyone share their
>>>> personal experience?
>> 
>>>> Mitch
>>>> San Luis Obispo, CA
> 
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Re: [RBW] Marathon Supreme Input please

[andrew hill]

I have the 40 Mara Supremes on my Hillborne, and they are bulletproof, but 
heavy, and always feel like they are working against me accelerating, etc.

Best,
Andrew

On May 16, 2011, at 7:48 AM, Rene Sterental wrote:

> I have the 35 Supremes on my Homer and like them very much. No flats
> and no issues. I have the 50 Supremes on my Atlantis and am also very
> pleased with them. Haven't used the 40 but would assume they'd be as
> wonderful.
> 
> I have the 40 Extremes and love them.
> 
> I'm sure you'll love both so choose the one you fancy best and fits.
> 
> Rene
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 4
> 
> On May 16, 2011, at 9:39 AM, Mitch Browne  wrote:
> 
>> Currently commute daily 16 miles round trip on my 58 Atlantis with
>> 47mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.  I've been pretty happy with the
>> Schwalbes and have them on an XO-1 26x1.25 , Expedition, and Miyata
>> 1000 700x32's mostly for lazy flat protection.
>> 
>> I've ordered a set of long board fenders that won't accomodate the
>> 47's. I am trying to decide on 700x35 or 700x40 Marathon Supremes for
>> the summer at least. I like the bigger  tires since I fear no root,
>> rock, or limb on my mostly flat ride in.
>> 
>> I want to order the Supremes this week, can anyone share their
>> personal experience?
>> 
>> Mitch
>> San Luis Obispo, CA
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Handlebar setup

[andrew hill]

Hi Zaella,

I just got a 45 cm Rando bar to put on my pending SimpleOne, and will prob use 
a 10cm dirt-drop stem (lifts it higher).

I've hated drops for the most part, and never gotten use to them, due to my 
long torso and shortish arms - always felt too forward/down even with an 
otherwise perfectly fitting stem.  I love mustache and relatively straight bars 
(like bullmoose) for that reason. 

Bit I got the Rando's for the same reason you are considering them - to try 
some shorter drops.  
The 45's don't feel huge at all - because of the flared drop, they are not only 
much shallower than a noodle of the same width, the "flats" area is also 
smaller to make room for the flare.  E.g I doubt you will find the 45s to big.  

It'll be a few weeks before I actually mount them on a bike, but i'll let you 
know what i think once i do, if you are still curious.

Best,
Andrew

On May 15, 2011, at 4:36 PM, Zaelia wrote:

> Discussing bicycles in particular; it has been my experience that
> there are a lot of strong opinions out there about what is right or
> optimum. Personally, I think that it is whatever works for the
> individual. There are so many styles and purposes of riding, it's not
> hard to see that a one-fits-all formula isn't possible, even though I
> sometimes wish someone could just give me a magic number and
> everything would click into place.
> 
> Next, I guess I have to admit that a lot of this stuff is Greek to me.
> I'm learning, but it's slow going.
> 
> So with that in mind...
> 
> I've been to my LBS for a bike fitting (a multi-visit process) and we
> first took care of the basics, pedals and saddle. Things have
> improved. I have almost no hand or foot tingles any more, and knee
> pain is gone, for example, but I'm still experiencing shoulder and
> neck pain. I definitely feel as though I'm bunched up up top, like my
> shoulders are too close to my ears. In a recent visit, we determined
> that to start I should get a longer stem. Currently, my Hilsen has an
> 8 cm (80 mm) Nitto Technomic stem. It was suggested that, without
> changing my handlebars, I get a 10 cm (100 mm) stem.
> 
> It was also suggested I get a handlebar that has a medium to shallow
> drop since I admitted to almost never riding in the drops because it
> feels too uncomfortable. I've got a 42 cm (420 mm) Nitto 115. The
> fitter, very keen for me to get an anatomic bar that he thought was
> perfect for me, pulled out a black aluminum bar and repeatedly told me
> that I would not find anything like this in the "retro style". I
> suppose he meant the angular or shaped-curve drops of the anatomic
> bars, but I also had the feeling he was saying I wouldn't find
> anything with a medium to shallow drop.
> 
> At home on my computer, I looked at various Nitto handlebars on a
> couple of websites (Riv, Peter White, and Harris Cyclery) and I saw,
> for example, that the Nitto 135 Randonneur has a shallower drop at 120
> mm compared to my 115 at 140 mm. It has a slightly longer reach at 105
> mm compared to my 100 mm, but has basically a "similar construction
> and finish to model 115" (Harris Cyclery). I'm assuming this "similar
> construction" means it has a 25.4 mm center as well, though the
> website does not specify.
> 
> So, I'm thinking about getting the Randonneur bars and trying them out
> with the new, longer stem. I'll get the improved reach with the longer
> stem and a shallower drop for better shifting and increased options
> for hand positions.
> 
> The last thing is handlebar width. I've read quite a bit about going
> for a wider handlebar width. Again, the fitter had different ideas.
> Ironically, he could see how maybe my working at a computer for many
> hours a day could cause some back problems but did not see that having
> a narrow (shoulder width) bar could do the same. The Nitto 135
> Randonneur only comes in 2 sizes on the Harris Cyclery website (42 and
> 45 cm), so that helps a little. So maybe I'll just throw all my chips
> in and get the 45 cm... ?
> 
> Well. I'm not sure why I wrote all this. I guess I'm hoping someone
> will read it and offer their thoughts and/or experiences. I'd be
> interested to read what others have to say.
> 
> Thanks,
> Zaelia
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Simple dreaming

[andrew hill]

The WI Ti BB is one of the few parts I already had.. that and the dirt drop 
stem and the urban platforms.

So I'll see how it feels, and replace if too flexy.
But ya I'm 190#, 5'11, and I'll generate some torque.  Should be a good test of 
the BB. :)

Best,
andrew

On May 13, 2011, at 10:22 PM, benzzoy wrote:

> Not that I'm anti-Ti or anything, but after using a bunch of Ti-
> spindled square-tapered BB, including the White Industries version, I
> would recommend against them unless you're trying to break some sort
> of weight record (and clearly with Phil Wood hubs, you're not).  Ti-
> spindled square-tapered BBs are very flexy even at my size and weight
> (5'10", 140+lb then) so I hate to think how much more flexy it will be
> for someone who rides a 58cm frame.  The upside of a steel spindle,
> apart from being nicely stiffer, is that it's cheaper.
> 
> Tubes?  I would go for Schwalbe's.  They're of noticeably higher
> quality (more uniform and with nice reinforcements) and seem to hold
> pressure longer.
> 
> 
> On May 13, 2:27 pm, andrew hill  wrote:
>> Drivetrain
>> ---
>> White Industries Ti BB  (113mm)
> 
> -- 
> 

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[RBW] Simple dreaming

[andrew hill]

Ok.. I'm sure some of you can relate.  

You think.. nice!  A new Rivendell frame for ~ $1K.  

I can build a less-expensive bike than what I've already got, and it's not that 
bad... feels totally justifiable.  And this one is a single speed - how much 
will it cost even with a couple of nice parts, without all that expensive 
shifter/derailleur nonsense...

And then you start choosing parts.

Here is my "simple" build list, after I got done dreaming and plotting.  Sadly, 
only a couple of these things were in my parts bin, so I managed to build my 
most spendy Rivendell yet.  : /

58cm SimpleOne

Interface:
--
Nitto Randonneur bars (45cm)
Newbaums Orange
Dirt drop stem (10cm)
Brooks Special, Honey
Nitto S-84 seatpost
White Industries urban platform / Bruce Gordon stainless half clips.

Wheelset
---
Phil Wood high-flange free/free hubset, 32h, SLR drilled
Velocity Fusion rims, double butted DT Swiss (laced radial front / 3-cross 
rear), brass nipples.
Schwalbe Marathon Racer 700c x 35

Drivetrain
---
White Industries Ti BB  (113mm)
White Industries ENO Crank (170mm) silver
White Industries Dos ENO 16/19t
White Industries Double chainring, 38/35t
3/32 single-speed chain
Sugino Crank Fixing Bolts (8mm)

Stoptrain
---
Sram S500 road levers
Jagwire brake cables
Tektro CR720 cantilevers

Aside from rim-tape and tubes, did I miss anything?  

I've got bottle cages, beeswax, corks, and twine, and the specific tools for 
those cranks and bb.  The bar wrap will be shellacked down from orange to 
something approaching the honey of the saddle.

Might put on an extra R-15 rack that I've got, or a sturdier and sleeker 
pannier rack if i can find one.
Thinking about a 21t freewheel for the other side, too, or a 14t...

Comon - who else has been madly plotting a SimpleOne or not-so-SimpleOne? 

Best,
Andrew

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Re: [RBW] Bike commuting in Los Angeles

[andrew hill]

Yup, totally rideable.  It will be faster than driving, during rush hours too 
(especially in the afternoons).

The exact route will take some care - you can take the "direct" route most of 
the time just fine, but a couple nice side-streets from that route will mean 
less traffic.  Check out Romaine, Willoughby, etc and figure out which has 
lights at the big cross streets.

The only dangerous bit of BH is Sunset Blvd, and that's the more western bit of 
BH towards UCLA. 

Best,
Andrew

On May 10, 2011, at 7:21 PM, Bridgestone wrote:

> I just got a job that will move me from NYC to LA this Sunday. Could
> be temporary, could be permanent. I'll be staying in Beverly Hills
> with my mother-in-law. The gig is 15 miles away on Hollwood Blvd. and
> Cahuenga. Is that rideable without killing myself?
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 2006 Riv Rambouillet 54cm

[andrew hill]

nice bike. someone is going to be happy with that!

andrew

On May 10, 2011, at 6:30 PM, johnb wrote:

> what an idiot.. $1500 + shipping
> 
> On May 10, 9:28 pm, johnb  wrote:
>> As I noted in previous posts, I have recently purchased an Atlantis.
>> This is part of a goal to find a bike that handles my commutes and
>> touring well. Between my girlfriend and I we have seven bikes which is
>> more than I wish to maintain. So I am thinning my part of the herd.
>> Here is bike 1
>> 
>> 2006 54cm Rambouillet (Coleman green formerly)
>> S&S couplers installed by Bilenky of Philadelphia
>> Custom paint
>> Completely stock build with the following exceptions
>> Silver sidepulls
>> Connex 920 chain
>> SRAM 11x32 rear cassette
>> Brooks handlebar tape
>> Acorn Roll bag with tool for couplers and any 700c tubes I have left
>> since I will no longer have any 700c bikes
>> Schwalbe Marathon Supremes 700x38 with about 200 miles on them (they
>> still have the center 'bead')
>> rear light
>> suitcase and packing tubes plus printed instructions on how to get the
>> bike into the suitcase.
>> 
>> It does not come with the Brooks saddle. This baby is perfectly formed
>> to my butt.
>> 
>> There are a couple of minor paint dings that I have tried to capture
>> in the pictures. The chain became jammed between the chain stay and
>> the inner cog once and chewed up the paint in there pretty good and I
>> tried to capture that as well. All spots have been touched up with
>> Testers paint that matches pretty well. I will add that to the
>> shipment.
>> 
>> The bike will ship in the suitcase and shipping should be around $90
>> on UPS.
>> 
>> Here are pictures 
>> -http://www.flickr.com/photos/jbusteed/sets/72157626694043428/
>> 
>> Please let me know if you have any questions.
> 
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Re: [RBW] schwalbe marathon racer 700x35 or kojak 700x35 for romulus

[andrew hill]

i've got Schwalbe Mara Racer 30s on my canti-Rom and while i don't have a 
caliper, they are just a hair over 1 inch in width (~ 27mm)

hope this helps.

-andrew


On May 8, 2011, at 7:33 PM, rex wrote:

> hi all
> does anyone have these and know the actual width when mounted? i have
> narrow road type rims. im trying to fit these under the 45mm sks
> fender on my romulus. any suggestions on what is a good tire for that
> application would be appreciated. im trying to maximize width for the
> tires. i have the original shimano brakes, but would be willing to go
> to the tektro big mouth if neccesary if it helps.
> thanks for your time
> joe rex kelly
> 
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[RBW] SimpleOne and Double/Double

[andrew hill]

Has anyone run a White Industries "Double/Double" drivetrain setup on their 
Quickbeam?
Or maybe has plans to on their SimpleOne?

Seems like a nice combination - rear Duo freewheel of 16/19, and front of 
either 38/35 or 34/31.

They suggest the 38/35 for a 26" mtn bike, and the 38/35 for a 29'er... but it 
seems to me that the 38/35 would be best for a 700c mostly on-road riding bike.

Am I confused?  e.g. 38/16 and 35/19 seem like they would be better than 31/19 
and 34/16...

Anyone try this yet, or have a thought as to why this wouldn't be a great idea? 
:)

Best,
andrew

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Re: [RBW] bars for a simpleone?

[andrew hill]

I've got a canit-Rom in 59 and a Sam Hillborne in 56, and used to own a 52 
Bombadil.  The Rom and Bomba fit well at those sizes (Rom w. mustache bars, 
Bomba with bullmoose) and the Sam feels a bit too big (with bullmoose).  Still 
trying to figure out how to make the Sam not feel like an oversized tank... 
don't think it's the bars on that one - probably the heavyish tires/wheels and 
I probably should have gone a size down, even though I have some standover 
clearance with the 56.  

I've also got pretty short arms/legs for my torso - that's probably why i 
haven't loved drops - e.g. to use them I'm stretched out over the bike too 
much. 

Thanks for all the advice and feedback from everyone - I think I'm leaning 
towards the Nitto Rando bar for the SimpleOne - e.g. splayed-out drops with a 
tighter bend so the drops are closer.  Maybe with a dirt-drop stem...

thanks,
andrew

On May 5, 2011, at 3:35 AM, Bruce Baker wrote:

> Just curious what's the frame size of your Rom and Hillborne?  I'm the same 
> height and PBH as you.
> Bruce
> 

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[RBW] bars for a simpleone?

[andrew hill]

just put a deposit on a SimpleOne.. trying to decide on the bars.

i've never really been a fan of drop bars, e.g. growing up as a kid in the 
70s.. and the couple of times i've tried them over the intervening decades 
haven't really changed my mind - the front ends have felt pretty squirrely (but 
these were mostly skinny tires, too).

i've got a canti-Rom with mustache bars and a Hillborne with bullmoose bars - 
love them both, although the front-end of the Hillborne is a bit floppy when 
unloaded.  

i figured that my lack of enthusiasm for drops was d/t build (very long torso, 
short legs - 5'11 w 84 pbh).  that being said, i'm wondering if there is 
something i'm "missing" in not getting used to drops.  

so i guess.. is there anything about a quickbeam/simplone that should influence 
my anti/pro stance on drops?  

anyone like other bars on their QBs, etc?  
also wondering about albatross - anyone have pics of those on a QB?

thank,
andrew

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Re: [RBW] Follow up re WTB: 58 cm Rambouillet

[andrew hill]

Just out of curiosity - is the canti-Rom the same as the regular-Rom except for 
cantis?


On Apr 17, 2011, at 10:51 AM, Jason Hartman wrote:

> 
> 
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2011 at 11:31 AM, Michael Williams 
>  wrote:
> Hey Tim, I have a 59 Romulus frame for sale if you have any interest. Ive 
> read that its the same exact fram as the Ram, just different paint.
> Thanks, -Mike
> 
> 
> 
> They are similar, but not exactly the same.
> 
> Here's a chart with most of the differences:
> 
> http://replay.waybackmachine.org/20040225124308/http://rivbike.com/html/bikes_romulus_16.html
> 
> 
> Jay Hartman
> 
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Re: [RBW] FS: Merlin Solis 56.5 w/Dura-Ace

[andrew hill]

Really?  Listing a bike with carbon in the frame on this particular email list? 
 That's a bold move.  ;)



On Apr 7, 2011, at 3:15 PM, Anne wrote:

> 2005 Merlin Solis, Size Large, 56.5 top tube, 77.7 stand over
> 
> This was my husband’s spare road ride and has been replaced by a
> custom build. The frame is in perfect shape. He prefers a quiet look
> to his frames so the top tube and down tube decals have been removed.
> 
> From Merlin: “The Solis features a shorter top tube, longer head tube,
> slightly sloped top tube and hourglass carbon fiber seatstays. The
> goal is to put the rider in a more upright riding position for those
> that find that more comfortable. Even with its longer head tube, the
> bike is still very aesthetically pleasing because Merlin has taken
> care to position the top tube so there isn't an exaggerated extension
> of the head tube above the frame. This geometry will make it easy to
> achieve a more upright position while still  riding the ‘sweet spot’
> of the frame design.”
> 
> Dura-Ace seatpost
> Dura-Ace brakes
> Dura-Ace 7800 shifters
> Dura-Ace 7700 F & R der
> Carbon compact double crank 170 arms, 34x50
> Phil Wood Titanium bottom bracket
> 12-26 cassette
> Cane Creek headset
> Ritchey Comp stem
> Nitto Noodle bars, 46cm, heat treated
> Speed Dream wheels: American Classic hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims
> 24/32h
> Michelin Pro Race tires (new)
> Alpha Q EX fork
> WTB Pure V saddle
> 
> $1,750 + shipping and insurance
> 
> Link to pics on photobucket:
> http://tinyurl.com/6hr6d5o
> 
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Re: [RBW] LA area bike chop recommendation?

[andrew hill]

Yeah, O20 is across from the original Bike Kitchen, too.
You can go build your own from random steel for cheaps.

Then when you get tired, go next door for awesome ice cream (Scoops).

Or across the street to vegetarian mexican / barbeque (Pure Luck).  It's 
actually not bad.  

Best,
Andrew

On Mar 27, 2011, at 5:48 PM, James Valiensi wrote:

> You can ride the subway to this one, which I think is the coolest bike shop 
> I've ever been to in Los Angeles.
> 
> 
> http://orange20bikes.com/
> 
> 
> James Valiensi, PE
> Northridge, CA
> H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796
> 
> 
> 
> On Mar 27, 2011, at 5:05 PM, Victor Bennett wrote:
> 
>> Hi Folks,
>> I just moved to LA from the Bay Area and am looking for a good bike
>> shop to patronize. I'm happy with any LA recommendations, I'm in the
>> Griffith Park/Los Feliz/Silver lake area, but I'll ttake
>> recommendations anywhere.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Victor
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Grant says the Simple One will now be a cantilever bike

[andrew hill]

NICE!!  This just put it back on my shopping list, edging out a Handsome XOXO 
set up as a single speed.

On Mar 20, 2011, at 8:21 PM, William wrote:

> among other things...
> 
> http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/345
> 
> I know a lot of you prefer it that way.
> 
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[RBW] Seersucker - wtb / returning?

[andrew hill]

I think I remember seeing somewhere that the seersucker shirts will be 
returning.. though I guess not yet :)

Anyone have any L sized ones they'd like to sell?  

I've been living in mine, and would love to have a couple more.

Best,
Andrew

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Re: [RBW] Re: Marathon Supremes

[andrew hill]

I've got 40mm Supremes on my Sam Hillborne.. I found them to be slow and heavy, 
though bulletproof.  

I've also got some Mara Racers on a Romulus.. extremely light and fast. 

Of course the 36 spoke Mavic versus 20 spoke Neuvation might have something to 
do with it, too.

Best,
Andrew
 
On Jan 27, 2011, at 6:14 PM, Ron MH wrote:

> I"ve been riding 32mm Supremes on my Quickbeam with one flat in about
> 1500mi. I doubt many tires would deflect a shiny new sheet metal
> screw.
> I've been very happy with the Supremes. However, I am jonesing for a
> set of Schwalbe Marathon Racers.
> 
> Here's a shot of the 'beam with the Supremes:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/visiondrawn/5210495113/sizes/l/in/photostream/
> 
> On Jan 27, 2:46 pm, Jennings  wrote:
>> My Pillar has been Hunqified.  Just posted pics on my flickr account
>> for anyone who wants to see.  Rode around the neighborhood and they
>> are really smooth.  You can see them 
>> here.http://www.flickr.com/photos/22765148@N02/sets/72157625334333105/
>> 
>> On Jan 27, 10:22 am, Mike  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> Please post pictures of your Hunqa with those tires on them. Sounds
>>> like a great set-up.
>> 
>>> On Jan 27, 4:40 am, Jennings  wrote:
>> 
 My 700x50 supremes were delivered yesterday by UPS.  Can't wait to get
 them on the Hunq and try them ou this weekend.- Hide quoted text -
>> 
>>> - Show quoted text -
> 
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Re: [RBW] (Dumb) Mark's Rack Installation Question

[andrew hill]

get a longer cable hanger :)


On Jan 20, 2011, at 12:49 PM, Minh wrote:

> I just got my Mark's Rack for my Canti hillborne and i can't figure
> out how to install the through fork bolt.  my canti-hanger is in the
> way.  any tricks for this that i'm missing?
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: widest tire on a Sam?

[andrew hill]

Jim,

did you use the 29 x 2.0 or the 29 x 2.35s?  

i've got cantis on my Sam, so i think it's a function of the frame, not brakes, 
and don't care about fenders (in Los Angeles).

best,
andrew

On Jan 17, 2011, at 6:40 AM, jim phillips wrote:

> Yes, I had Fat Franks on my Sam but when I decided to add fenders I had to go 
> with Delta Cruisers and the Fat boy was just too fat!
>  
> best,
>  
> JimP
>  
> > Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 19:34:35 -0800
> > Subject: [RBW] Re: widest tire on a Sam?
> > From: earlg...@gmail.com
> > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> > 
> > Andrew,
> > 
> > the Sam with fenders is not sporting Fat Franks, but Delta Cruisers,
> > which are skinnier (don't know how skinny). But the Fat Franks do fit
> > without fenders:
> > http://www.flickr.com/photos/56694464@N02/5314463096/in/photostream/
> > http://www.flickr.com/photos/56694464@N02/5314502412/in/photostream/
> > 
> > Gernot
> > 
> > 
> > On Jan 16, 2:08 pm, andrew hill  wrote:
> > > Thanks for info, Gernot!
> > >
> > > Really really tempted to order up some 29" x 2.0 Fat Franks and have a go 
> > > at it now :)
> > >
> > > Andrew
> > >
> > > On Jan 15, 2011, at 10:51 PM, Earl Grey wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > Here is a later side pull Sam with Fat Franks and aluminum fenders!
> > > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/56694464@N02/5339491448/in/photostream/l...
> > > > (Search archives for "Pics of new Samuel Hillborne" for the
> > > > corresponding thread.)
> > >
> > > > I have an early 56cm Sam with 3 dot fork and recently tried putting on
> > > > 52mm VO aluminum fenders, and they fit fine, requiring just a tad of
> > > > squeezing at the chainstay bridge.
> > >
> > > > Since the 50mm Big Apples actually run 44.5mm (photo on rivbike.com),
> > > > and given the photo above, I would guess that the 50mm Fat Franks will
> > > > fit, but haven't tried it myself.
> > >
> > > > Gernot
> > >
> > > > On Jan 16, 6:08 am, andrew hill  wrote:
> > > >> hi folks,
> > >
> > > >> i have what i believe is an "early" Sam, e.g. orange with 3-dot fork.
> > > >> trying to figure out what the widest tire i can squeeze in there... 
> > > >> would love to go up from 40mm Mara Sups to a Fat Frank, but doubt a 2" 
> > > >> will actually fit..
> > >
> > > >> not concerned about fenders (i live in Los Angeles).
> > >
> > > >> anyone else have the same dot-forked Sam who has stuffed über-fats in 
> > > >> there?
> > >
> > > >> thanks,
> > > >> andrew
> > >
> > > > --
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> > 
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[RBW] Rivendell representin' at the 2011 Los Angeles River Ride?

[andrew hill]

Hi folks,

Just a heads up that the 2011 LA River Ride has been scheduled for June 5th.  
I'll be there on my Romulus, doing the Century option.  Trying to cut a couple 
hours off my time from last year, on a Sam w heavy tires. 

Anyone else gonna attend, and ride some Riv steel?

Andrew

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Re: [RBW] Re: Nitto Mark's Rack Hardware

[andrew hill]

Not sure what rack those might fit, but I did attach a Nitto M12 Front Rack to 
my Canti-Rom recently; it's basically a Mark's / Mini-front that mounts to 
canti studs instead of the fork braze-ons.  Rene' Herse has the dual-light 
version for not too much scratch ($80).

Andrew



On Jan 13, 2011, at 4:50 AM, Frederick, Steve wrote:

> This raises a question I've been ponderin' for a while.  Does Nitto offer 
> mini-rack style canti-mount struts for the Mark's rack?  I've seen some made 
> for the Campee rack but they're likely too short.  Here:
> 
> http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=146_240&products_id=7978
> 
> Steve
> 
> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-
>> bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Thomas Lynn Skean
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 11:29 AM
>> To: RBW Owners Bunch
>> Subject: [RBW] Re: Nitto Mark's Rack Hardware
>> 
>> The RBW web site has lots of useful information how to install a Mark's Rack.
>> It has pictures which include all of the hardware the rack originally came 
>> with.
>> And it has pictures of the rack installed in various ways.
>> 
>> http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/mark-s-rack-nitto/20-108
>> 
>> They also sell spares that you may need, including special Nitto vibration-
>> resistant strut-attaching nuts/bolts/collars that I've never seen anywhere 
>> but
>> from Nitto. Whether they have any in stock is always a question.
>> 
>> http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-rack-hardware/20-077
>> http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-band-clamps/20-016
>> 
>> The hardware is not particularly cheap. But the only things I've seen "ready-
>> to-use" substitutes for in hardware stores are the normal- looking
>> nuts/bolts/washers that connect the "diving board" to the rack platform and
>> to the fork crown hole (all metric, which means not very common... and
>> stainless metric is less so, though my local Ace has
>> *some*) and the "band clamps", which are sometimes referred to as "P-
>> clamps" (though even those are hard-ish to find in stainless steel).
>> 
>> Hope this helps. It's not complicated when you're looking at everything. But 
>> I
>> do find it complicated to talk about in the abstract.
>> 
>> Good luck!
>> 
>> Yours,
>> Thomas Lynn Skean
>> 
>> On Jan 10, 8:33 pm, Jon Flaxman  wrote:
>>> Greetings all from snowy Arkansas (!)
>>> 
>>> The PO of my new-to-me Canti-Rom didn't pack the loose parts carefully
>> and as such, I am now missing the mounting screws for the Mark's Rack.
>>> 
>>> Anyone gave some spare parts hanging around, or know of the Home
>> Depot alternatives? I'm at a disadvantage, as I've never seen one if these
>> racks so I'm not sure what all is missing. I just know that I have a rack 
>> and no
>> nuts or spacers or whatever.
>>> 
>>> Thanks!
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: widest tire on a Sam?

[andrew hill]

Thanks for info, Gernot!

Really really tempted to order up some 29" x 2.0 Fat Franks and have a go at it 
now :)

Andrew


On Jan 15, 2011, at 10:51 PM, Earl Grey wrote:

> Here is a later side pull Sam with Fat Franks and aluminum fenders!
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/56694464@N02/5339491448/in/photostream/lightbox/
> (Search archives for "Pics of new Samuel Hillborne" for the
> corresponding thread.)
> 
> I have an early 56cm Sam with 3 dot fork and recently tried putting on
> 52mm VO aluminum fenders, and they fit fine, requiring just a tad of
> squeezing at the chainstay bridge.
> 
> Since the 50mm Big Apples actually run 44.5mm (photo on rivbike.com),
> and given the photo above, I would guess that the 50mm Fat Franks will
> fit, but haven't tried it myself.
> 
> Gernot
> 
> 
> On Jan 16, 6:08 am, andrew hill  wrote:
>> hi folks,
>> 
>> i have what i believe is an "early" Sam, e.g. orange with 3-dot fork.
>> trying to figure out what the widest tire i can squeeze in there... would 
>> love to go up from 40mm Mara Sups to a Fat Frank, but doubt a 2" will 
>> actually fit..
>> 
>> not concerned about fenders (i live in Los Angeles).
>> 
>> anyone else have the same dot-forked Sam who has stuffed über-fats in there?
>> 
>> thanks,
>> andrew
> 
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[RBW] widest tire on a Sam?

[andrew hill]

hi folks,

i have what i believe is an "early" Sam, e.g. orange with 3-dot fork.
trying to figure out what the widest tire i can squeeze in there... would love 
to go up from 40mm Mara Sups to a Fat Frank, but doubt a 2" will actually fit.. 

not concerned about fenders (i live in Los Angeles).

anyone else have the same dot-forked Sam who has stuffed über-fats in there?


thanks,
andrew

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Re: [RBW] 60 cm Heron on ebay

[andrew hill]

whaddya suppose the standover on that one is.. ?  :)


On Jan 8, 2011, at 9:08 PM, rcnute wrote:

> Whatta deal!  Someone taller than me buy this!  http://tinyurl.com/36k359h
> 
> Ryan
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: New News Post

[andrew hill]

well, there are issues with both approaches, as blanket rules.

we should be avoiding some fats (saturated animal fats, especially omega-6s) 
and some carbs (simple sugars and grain-based) but enjoying other fats 
(vegetable oils, unsaturated animal/fish fats, especially omega-3s) and other 
carbs (complex, vegetable and fruit based).

the problem is that sugar and grain-based carbs as well as saturated fats 
usually taste extremely good.  they have a "valuable" taste, e.g. we are wired 
to find them preferable as they are calorically quite dense compared to 
unsaturated fats and non-blood-sugar-bumping carbs, and in an evolutionary 
sense finding these foods meant we could spend less time foraging and more time 
doing other things that start with an f.  

the yummy-but-bad fats and the yummy-but-bad carbs are actually bad for 
different reasons.  e.g. saturated fats and O6s lead to increased blood lipids 
and increased cytokine inflammatory responses, while the 
evolutionally-rare-in-nature carbs overdrive our insulin/leptin signaling 
systems to a point they cannot manage blood sugar levels and fat storage within 
healthy ranges.  

in addition, our western diets have been flooded by these foods (and especially 
grain/sugar carbs) as a function of business rather than nutrition.  the "fats 
are bad" misapprehension that started in the 70s and 80s pushed us even further 
towards carbs and sugar over the past 40 years, as foods were pumped up with 
sugars to ensure they were still palatable once the fats were removed.  add in 
consumption of weird engineered foods (HFCS, margarine) whose ratios of 
macronutrients is unusual, and we start seeing lots of secondary bad effects on 
metabolism, tissues, and growth/repair mechanisms.

-andrew


On Jan 6, 2011, at 4:39 PM, Anne Paulson wrote:

> Why does "Carbohydrates are delicious but you should avoid them"
> differ in diet success from "Fats are delicious but you should avoid
> them"? How is it easier to avoid delicious carbohydrates than
> delicious fats?
> 
> On Thu, Jan 6, 2011 at 4:20 PM, Rene Sterental  wrote:
>> Well, I just finished reading Taube's book on my iPad. I'm traveling
>> for business and didn't want to wait. I have to say that even though I
>> was familiar with the concepts, his clear evidence based presentation
>> of the topic has left an indelible impression.
> 
> 
> -- 
> -- Anne Paulson
> 
> My hovercraft is full of eels

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Re: [RBW] Re: New News Post

[andrew hill]

if you are doing long workouts you should have some carbs.. low carb diets work 
because they keep the glycogen reserves in the liver/muscles fairly low, and 
that kicks the body over into a ketone pathway (gluconeogenesis) metabolism 
from a glycogen pathway (glycogenolysis) metabolism. 

so you can (and should) have carbs if you are actively burning them with high 
work output, essentially.  

to combine heavy or long workouts with low-carb simply requires you to plan 
carb intake (above 20g at once, or above 60g per day) only on days when you are 
actually burning through them.

in fact, doing high-carb/workout days interspersed with very low carb days (2-4 
at a time) is an old-skool way of stripping off body fat very quickly, called 
things like macronutrient cycling, carb refeeding, etc.

best,
andrew

On Jan 6, 2011, at 11:37 AM, reynoldslugs wrote:

> 
> Friends:
> 
> I have gone back and forth with low carbohydrate diets, and they work
> ok for me, but for one significant problem:
> 
> How can one possibly do long rides on a low carbohydrate regimen?
> 
> Here is my query to the group:
> 
> I cannot figure out how to do a long ride - - say, anything more than
> 3 hours, or certainly something in the 8 - 10 hour range - - without
> consuming lots of carbohydrates.
> 
> How do those of you that ascribe to this nutritional plan get through
> multi-hour rides?
> 
> RL
> 
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Re: [RBW] New News Post

[andrew hill]

I've done a similar diet a few times in the past, easily dropping 15-30 pounds 
in a few months.  I've never tried "Atkins" per se, but had great success with 
Rob Faigin's "Natural Hormone Enhancement", which cycles in the occasional 
high-carb meal with a lowish-carb lifestyle (with the weight-loss range of 
Mark's carb-curve).  It doesn't stress no-grain, though I've been avoiding 
wheat for a few years for other reasons than fat loss.  

Over the past couple of years I'd crept back up a bit in pudge, so in 
mid-October I started eating Primal, with the goal of being much leaner by my 
40th birthday (which is tomorrow, as it happens.  I wonder if Rivendell will 
send me a coupon :)  I'll probably get this new Taubes book once Grant et al 
are stocking it, just for another perspective on this metabolic process, as I'm 
trying to fit these results into a mathematical model.  I'm a scientist, and do 
"believe" the science behind this sort of diet.  Grant - if you are reading 
this, I suggest checking out Brain Building Nutrition by Schmidt; it's more 
than tangentially related.

So.. In the past 10 weeks or so I've lost about 22 lbs, and I'm now lighter 
than I've been in 10 years.  It's been significantly easier than any other 
"low-carb" diet I've tried.  Part of that may be because of some of the 
specific recommendations Mark has made about limiting dairy (seems a breve' 
latte is low-carb, but also somewhat insulinogenic, for me at least) and upping 
good fat intake (coconut oil for the win!).

Another 10 or so lbs to go, though I'm already getting a lot more notice from 
all these superficial Los Angeles types I'm surrounded by.  :)


Andrew



On Jan 1, 2011, at 5:08 PM, Dave Minyard wrote:

> I just saw this on the website. Good Stuff... 
> http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/318. Say's it might only be up today.
> 
> Happy New Year!
> 
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[RBW] FS: 12cm Nitto lugged quill/stem

[andrew hill]

I have a mounted-once but otherwise unused 12cm Nitto lugged quill / stem for 
sale (I'm assuming this is a 12cm - it measures more like 12.5cm  c2c).

It's "dull-brite" like most of em.  In great shape - never actually ridden, 
just mounted for feel (and didn't work for me with m-bars).  Stem is 
unscratched/unmarked, quill has a faint line/scratch or two from being mounted, 
but I had it all the way up, pretty much, so doubt those will show for most 
people.  

$135 shipped, paypalled or $125 cash/pickup in west Los Angeles.

cheers,
andrew


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Re: [RBW] Re: Shimmy, according to BQ

[andrew hill]

I've got a 56 Sam that I ran a R-14 on with 2 Ortliebs fairly well loaded, or 
(alternatively) a Big Loafer on top... nary a shimmy (with a mini+loaf on the 
front).

ymmv, of course, but i never noticed any "flexiness" from the R-14.

-a

On Dec 21, 2010, at 8:08 PM, doug peterson wrote:

> Just looked up the R-14 on Riv's site:  13 lbs capacity.  It's
> surprising how quickly weight can add up.  The R-14 is an elegant
> looking rack but with just the support struts for stability it may
> lack lateral stiffness.
> 
> dougP
> 
> On Dec 21, 2:20 pm, james black  wrote:
>> On Tue, Dec 21, 2010 at 13:25, William  wrote:
>>> I loaded my 56cm Bombadil with the trunksack small on the Nitto Mini
>>> front.  I moved the Nitto R-14 rear and the loaded Saddlesack Large
>>> over to the Bombadil.  The Bombadil does shimmy with that load.  But
>>> it is at a much higher frequency and a smaller amplitude.  The
>>> amplitude was almost small enough to just ignore.  It also happened at
>>> a somewhat higher speed.  More notes for the notebook.
>> 
>> The R-14 looks to my eye like it would be very flexible. I still think
>> that it is the main culprit here. It would be an interesting
>> experiment to keep everything the same but have the bag on a stiffer
>> rack.
>> 
>> James Black
>> Los Angeles, CA
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 2 Nitto R-15 racks

[andrew hill]

one R-15 left - has a set of short and a set of long arms, but no p-clamps, etc.

-andrew


On Dec 16, 2010, at 9:51 PM, doug peterson wrote:

> Andrew:
> 
> I'm interested.  Is the R 15 the rack with the side pieces so the
> panniers don't flop into the wheel?  I have the Big Rear Rack now and
> it's a bit much for what I do.  The little top rack, the one with just
> the struts running down, is the one Riv says shouldn't be used with
> panniers.  Is the R 15 "in between"?  Do you have a pick or can you
> send a link?  Nitto's info on line is a bit hard to sort out.
> 
> I'm in OC.  What part of LA are you in?
> 
> dougP
> 
> On Dec 16, 4:42 pm, andrew hill  wrote:
>> I've got two Nitto R-15 racks for sale.
>> 
>> These are nice top-racks, as well as some of the the smallest racks that can 
>> still handle a couple of Ortlieb panniers.
>> Hold a Big Loafer just fine, although the 'Loaf is a bit longer than the 
>> rack and the tweed ones flop over the end a half-inch when empty.
>> 
>> I had one of these on my 56cm Sam, and the other on a Bleriot at one point.  
>> 
>> One rack has both sets of long/uncut attachment arms, one has a short set 
>> for the horizontal attachers.
>> 
>> Both are in great shape, and have minimal scratching, scuffs, etc.
>> 
>> These will also work as a big front rack for a Bombadil, etc, though on my 
>> 52cm Bomba (that Will now has) it looked pretty big/industrial.  
>> Looked pretty awesome used as both a front/rear rack, too.  
>> 
>> To forestall the question - no, sadly I don't have any p-clamps for 
>> non-braze-on attachment.
>> 
>> $100 each, paypalled / shipped in ContUS.
>> $185 for both.
>> 
>> $90 each, cash / pickup in Los Angeles.
>> $175 for both.
>> 
>> best,
>> andrew
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 2 Nitto R-15 racks

[andrew hill]

yeah, i've not taken pics yet, but it's this rack:
http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=671

not just a "top rack".

i'm in West LA on Venice Blvd - email me off list for phone :)

-a


On Dec 16, 2010, at 9:51 PM, doug peterson wrote:

> Andrew:
> 
> I'm interested.  Is the R 15 the rack with the side pieces so the
> panniers don't flop into the wheel?  I have the Big Rear Rack now and
> it's a bit much for what I do.  The little top rack, the one with just
> the struts running down, is the one Riv says shouldn't be used with
> panniers.  Is the R 15 "in between"?  Do you have a pick or can you
> send a link?  Nitto's info on line is a bit hard to sort out.
> 
> I'm in OC.  What part of LA are you in?
> 
> dougP
> 
> On Dec 16, 4:42 pm, andrew hill  wrote:
>> I've got two Nitto R-15 racks for sale.
>> 
>> These are nice top-racks, as well as some of the the smallest racks that can 
>> still handle a couple of Ortlieb panniers.
>> Hold a Big Loafer just fine, although the 'Loaf is a bit longer than the 
>> rack and the tweed ones flop over the end a half-inch when empty.
>> 
>> I had one of these on my 56cm Sam, and the other on a Bleriot at one point.  
>> 
>> One rack has both sets of long/uncut attachment arms, one has a short set 
>> for the horizontal attachers.
>> 
>> Both are in great shape, and have minimal scratching, scuffs, etc.
>> 
>> These will also work as a big front rack for a Bombadil, etc, though on my 
>> 52cm Bomba (that Will now has) it looked pretty big/industrial.  
>> Looked pretty awesome used as both a front/rear rack, too.  
>> 
>> To forestall the question - no, sadly I don't have any p-clamps for 
>> non-braze-on attachment.
>> 
>> $100 each, paypalled / shipped in ContUS.
>> $185 for both.
>> 
>> $90 each, cash / pickup in Los Angeles.
>> $175 for both.
>> 
>> best,
>> andrew
> 
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[RBW] FS: 2 Nitto R-15 racks

[andrew hill]

I've got two Nitto R-15 racks for sale.

These are nice top-racks, as well as some of the the smallest racks that can 
still handle a couple of Ortlieb panniers.
Hold a Big Loafer just fine, although the 'Loaf is a bit longer than the rack 
and the tweed ones flop over the end a half-inch when empty.

I had one of these on my 56cm Sam, and the other on a Bleriot at one point.  

One rack has both sets of long/uncut attachment arms, one has a short set for 
the horizontal attachers. 

Both are in great shape, and have minimal scratching, scuffs, etc.

These will also work as a big front rack for a Bombadil, etc, though on my 52cm 
Bomba (that Will now has) it looked pretty big/industrial.  
Looked pretty awesome used as both a front/rear rack, too.  

To forestall the question - no, sadly I don't have any p-clamps for 
non-braze-on attachment.

$100 each, paypalled / shipped in ContUS.
$185 for both.

$90 each, cash / pickup in Los Angeles.
$175 for both.


best,
andrew


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[RBW] long for short lugged quill stem?

[andrew hill]

hi folks,

i've got a 12cm lugged quill stem.. looking for a shorter one (8cm?  9cm?) if 
anyone wants to trade :)

andrew

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Re: [RBW] Broken Rail on a Brooks

[andrew hill]

John, your method sounds traumatic :)

i've replaced a of drum heads, and i wonder if some of the tricks there would 
apply.  it's a different sort of leather - uncured goat (thin) or uncured 
african cow (thick) - but whenever i work with skin that has to be under 
tension, i soak it in room temp water and that makes it pliable.  you can 
control how pliable too - a bass drum skin will move like cloth after it's been 
soaked for 30 min, but has a fixed shell shape after it dries.  not the same 
thing as a broken in saddle of tanned leather, but..

so Scott, i guess if i had a saddle that was perfectly entooshified, and then 
threw a rail, here is what i'd do:

- grab a block of potters' clay and mold it around saddle surface 
- i'd probably tape the leather up a bit first with a few layers of 
paper/plastic to anticipate clay shrinkage, and add some drainage holes in the 
reverse-mold.
- let it air-harden and make sure the saddle still fits, sand here and there as 
needed to get it right.
- soak the leather in water for 20-30 min, pulling it out when it's pretty 
bendy but still has most of the original shape
- stretch over the new frame, adjusted to shortest length
- press into clay template, allow to dry/set for a day to ensure the leather 
breaks the right way.  assuming my mold has the underside of the saddle "up", i 
might fill with gravel and bake in a 200 degree oven for an hour or two to set 
it.  
- let dry fully, out of the mold. prob 2 days or so, or 1 really long day in 
the hot sun.
- voila!

if you actually try this, let me know!  :D

andrew


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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Lugged Bikes vs.Timber-Frames

[andrew hill]

i wonder if a carbo-no-mas fork would work with one of those... 

andrew

 
On Nov 30, 2010, at 5:48 PM, Bill M. wrote:

> Thinking of bikes, timber frames, beautiful construction and nice
> joinery leads me to think of:
> 
> http://www.renovobikes.com/gallery-r4-pursuit/
> 
> Bill
> 
> On Nov 30, 4:00 am, Marty  wrote:
>> Lugged bikes are like timber-framed structures; both beautiful,
>> neither wanting to cover up the joinery, strong, built to last, did I
>> say beautiful?
>> 
>> There's a new/old grain mill being built near home in PA (actually
>> just inside Northern Maryland, on Amos Mill Road) ). Replaces an
>> antique mill that just about fell down. Owned by the Amos family -
>> same as ever. The Amish are taking care of the framing. I happened to
>> ride by on a rest day (for the Amish, not me) , and took a bunch of
>> photos of something you rarely see. What an honor!
>> 
>> http://tinyurl.com/2az5myp
>> 
>> Marty
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: SHOES!

[andrew hill]

Nope, the bike-specific Keen Coronados i've got are cleat-free (no place to 
attach them).  

Keen does make similar shoes with cleat-attachments, and sandals like that too, 
but the bike ones I'm talking about are just less flexy in the sole and upper 
than the lighter-weight canvas Coronados.  

Best,
Andrew

On Nov 14, 2010, at 4:31 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean wrote:

> Thanks for the tip on the bike-specific ones... I've thought about the
> Coronados but have never tried them on. They'll be next on my try-on
> list now. You use the bike-specific ones on Grip Kings? Does their
> bike-specificity extend to having cleats? I like the idea of the
> stiffer sole but would balk at cleats I think.
> 
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
> 
> On Nov 14, 5:53 pm, andrew hill  wrote:
>> +1 on Keens.
>> 
>> I've got two pairs of Keen Coronados; one canvas pair, and one "bike" pair 
>> that's heavier material (suede?) with a stiffer sole.
>> both work fine for cycling on Grip Kings, Sneaker Pedals, etc.  and allow my 
>> wide feet plenty of room with the enclosed toe-box.
>> 
>> The bike-specifc ones are my choice for longer rides, as the sole gives 
>> less.  
>> And an FYI to anyone looking at these - the bike ones run 1/2 a size smaller 
>> than the non-bike ones.
>> 
>> best,
>> andrew
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: SHOES!

[andrew hill]

+1 on Keens.

I've got two pairs of Keen Coronados; one canvas pair, and one "bike" pair 
that's heavier material (suede?) with a stiffer sole.
both work fine for cycling on Grip Kings, Sneaker Pedals, etc.  and allow my 
wide feet plenty of room with the enclosed toe-box.

The bike-specifc ones are my choice for longer rides, as the sole gives less.  
And an FYI to anyone looking at these - the bike ones run 1/2 a size smaller 
than the non-bike ones.

best,
andrew

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riding backwards.

[andrew hill]

man.  now i want a retro-direct SimpleOne.

-andrew

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Re: [RBW] Re: Two posts on our site

[andrew hill]

+1 on the Mara Sups being great climbers and smooth rollers, that occasionally 
(often often) feel like they are filled with lead (on a SH).  

andrew


On Oct 30, 2010, at 6:07 PM, EricP wrote:

> First caveat - I have not used the 700xanything Big Apples.  Only the
> 26 inch version.  Second, have used the Marathon Supremes in both 26
> and 700 versions.  Have the latter 700x40 on the Sam Hillborne.  I
> find the Supremes a better climbing tire.  My wife feels the Liteskin
> 26 inch Big Apple is a better tire than the Supreme.  She is not as
> nuts as the rest of us, but has her own preference in tires.
> 
> That being said, the Sam Hillborne next year will probably be set up
> with Paselas.  The Supremes from time to time feel like they are
> filled with concrete.  Can't figure it out.  But the wheels just don't
> wanna roll.
> 
> Eric Platt
> 
> On Oct 30, 3:40 pm, Garth  wrote:
>> Hey Patrick, who's to say you have to get both tires the same? Get one
>> of each!
>> 
>> While I thought I was kidding . come to think of it , why not?
>> It's funny how we assume we need the same tire front and rear, but the
>> two serve totally different functions and ride completely different.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: early atlantis

[andrew hill]

ya, and it's UGLY (colorwise)


On Oct 25, 2010, at 3:36 PM, Johnny Alien wrote:

> That is priced way too high. This is not the first time that has been
> listed.
> 
> On Oct 25, 3:53 pm, Andrew  wrote:
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-1982-BRIDGESTONE-ATLANTIS-ONLY-300-MADE-/300...
> 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Derailleur Cabling

[andrew hill]

thanks folks, for setting me straight on the un-tapped resource of a drain hole.

andrew

On Oct 23, 2010, at 9:15 PM, doug peterson wrote:

> The untapped hole is a drain hole; don't plug it.  I never took the BB
> out for 6 years & there was not crud up there when I did.
> 
> I drilled a separate hole near the drain for the cable guide bracket.
> 
> dougP
> 
> On Oct 23, 4:28 pm, andrew hill  wrote:
>> I've been wondering the same thing, in preparation of building up a Romulus.
>> 
>> good to know i can just use the metal guides, but there is an (untapped) 
>> hole for tapping and mounting a pastic guide, i assume.  
>> 
>> i'm concerned about getting crud up in the bb shell if i don't plug it..  or 
>> maybe this isn't really an issue?
>> 
>> best,
>> andrew
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Derailleur Cabling

[andrew hill]

I've been wondering the same thing, in preparation of building up a Romulus.

good to know i can just use the metal guides, but there is an (untapped) hole 
for tapping and mounting a pastic guide, i assume.  

i'm concerned about getting crud up in the bb shell if i don't plug it..  or 
maybe this isn't really an issue?

best,
andrew

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Re: [RBW] Re: bag for mustache bars?

[andrew hill]

thanks everyone,

yeah, a no-rise, long stem is why i'm concerned about fitting something like 
the Acorn Handlebar Bag "under" the m-bars, but that'd be an ideal bag i think, 
and might work.

i think a seat-intended bag might fit, using seat tube loop as head-tube loop, 
and seat loop loops for bar loops, if i can figure out a way to keep the bag 
off the brake cable.  maybe the rackaleur or a modified bottle cage - cannot 
quite visualized it.  

the wheels aren't in yet, so i cannot built it all up and make sure this is the 
right stem, but i'll post a pic when it's all together, with bag. 

andrew

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Re: [RBW] FOUND, was WTB: Grip Kings

[andrew hill]

I just put Grip Kings on my Sam, and like them a LOT more than the MKS 
sneakers. 
The way my (flat, size 11) feet sit makes better contact with the GK's.  And 
this is w/o adding nubs.

Andrew


On Oct 17, 2010, at 4:01 PM, Rob Harrison wrote:

> Ryan Nute just stopped by with a pair for me to buy, so soon I will be able 
> to sample the wonders of the Grip King. Thanks Ryan!
> 
> Do you guys use the added nobs?
> 
> Rob in Seattle
> 
> 

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[RBW] bag for mustache bars?

[andrew hill]

I'm looking for a front-bag to hang beneath m-bars on a Romulus.  M-bars and 
bags don't seem to go together at all well.  That being said, I'd like to try a 
bar-bag instead of a front rack on this bike but I've got a 12-cm stem on, so 
it's a hair more room than usual. 

Any suggestions??  

Thanks,
Andrew

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Sam Hill 56 frameset + parts with added lowrider braze ons; much modified M Monocog partial build; Shimano dynohub wheelset Jack Brown Greens.

[andrew hill]

i'm guessing this is the SH mentioned:
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bik/1984930063.html


On Oct 17, 2010, at 12:21 PM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

> My brother is handling the sale Please contact him at
> writeint...@gmail.com. Thanks.
> 
> On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 12:03 PM, Justin August  
> wrote:
>> Details?
>> 
>> On Oct 17, 10:30 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>>> Contact writeint...@gmail.com
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Albuquerque, NM
>>> For professional resumes, contact
>>> Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
>> 
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>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
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> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
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Re: [RBW] Re: good looking hunqs

[andrew hill]

ya, me too.  just a couple more centimeters and it'd fit.  
maybe a 650B conversion?  :)

-andrew

On Oct 13, 2010, at 6:59 PM, Way Rebb wrote:

> Those Hunquapillars are nice looking bikes.  The diag-a-tube looks
> very natural.  If only I was a little bigger.
> 
> -Ray
> 
> On Oct 11, 6:17 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
>> I think he's on the list but I just saw this hunquapillar tonight:
>> 
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/devildotbunny/5072896097/
>> 
>> This should be the one riv shows on their website b/c holy crap is
>> that a gorgeous build.
>> 
>> -sv
> 
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Re: [RBW] wide-Q road crankset?

[andrew hill]

On Oct 4, 2010, at 12:25 PM, Steve Palincsar wrote:

> On Mon, 2010-10-04 at 12:15 -0700, andrew hill wrote:
>> Can anyone recommend a wide-ish Q road crankset?  i'm looking for something 
>> like a 52/42/30 with a 170 length and a tread of 165.  not sure if such a 
>> beastie exists, and a weekend of googling hasn't turned it up.  I'd be happy 
>> with a non-compact double as well, though I bet a wide-Q version is even 
>> less likely.  
>> 
> 
> Is there any reason you couldn't use a 110/74 crank like the Sugino
> XD-600, replacing the rings with those of your choosing?


no, i probably could do that.. and in fact just speaking with Keven he 
suggested that :)

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[RBW] wide-Q road crankset?

[andrew hill]

Can anyone recommend a wide-ish Q road crankset?  i'm looking for something 
like a 52/42/30 with a 170 length and a tread of 165.  not sure if such a 
beastie exists, and a weekend of googling hasn't turned it up.  I'd be happy 
with a non-compact double as well, though I bet a wide-Q version is even less 
likely.  

The Sugino RD3000T that Soma offers would be perfect if it's Q is wide enough, 
but something tells me it's not, and Soma hasn't answered my emails asking that 
question.

And Riv content - this is for a new-to-me CantiRom i'll be building up - want 
to get a few more mm tread compared to the Sam with stock BB and Sugino XD2.

Thanks,
Andrew

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Re: [RBW] Re: advice on crank / bb selection

[andrew hill]

Thanks folks, for all the suggestions and observations.  

I guess one of the specific questions I have is "how short" for cranks and "how 
wide" for bb..  

And also.. I couldn't find any notes on the width of the bb that came with my 
Sam.. so not sure if the Sugino XD2 with it's 165 is narrower or not than the 
Gary Fisher (which I no longer have) with it's 166 tread.

So.. when starting to build my new (to me) Romulus.. what size bb might folks 
suggest to get a nice wide Q?

Also, someone replied in the thread that a TA Cyclotouriste would be a good 
idea.. but those have narrow tread, right?  And someone else seemed to suggest 
narrow-verus-wide to help ITB problems.. guess I'm a little confused.

Best,
Andrew



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[RBW] advice on crank / bb selection

[andrew hill]

hi folks,

i'm looking at building up my next Riv in some road-ish configuration for a 
fast/light trainer.. this will probably going to be based on a canti-Rom (or a 
Roadeo), and i want to make good choices to help alleviate some knee problems 
i've had with my Sam Hillborne.

the Sam has a Sugino XD2 with 175mm cranks, and i experienced some rather bad 
ITB pain on the right side starting 60 miles into a century.  at the time i 
thought it was because i was clipped into the pedals and didn't have enough 
float, and while i do think some cleat mis-adjustment might have contributed, 
i've continued to have some minor pain in that knee all summer when doing short 
rides (6 miles) while using only platforms (after taking almost 2 months off 
riding to allow it to heal).

so i'm wondering if the Q factor and crank length are something i should change 
on my next bike.  

some relevant info - i'm 5'11 but with a pbh of 84.5 (rounded up a few mm), so 
i've got short legs and long torso.  in addition, i rode a 19" Gary Fisher 
Cobia 29er for the past few years and never experienced even a twinge of pain 
doing 12-30 mile rides, and ~ 75+ miles a week with clip-ins; the Fisher also 
had 175 cranks, and a Q-factor of 166.  I believe the Q on the SD2's are about 
the same (165), but i'm not sure what the BB width that came with the Sam is, 
so it's possible the Fisher had a larger effective Q...?

i'd like to go back to SPD clip-ins, as i never had a problem before my century 
ride last june, and based on some recent threads on this list, i'm planning on 
going with a shorter crank.. i'm thinking 170mm, as i doubt 172.5 will make 
much of a difference (but i'd love to hear dissenting opinions).  

also - anyone know how "typical" the Q the Sam with stock BB and SD2 is?   any 
advice on how to minimize ITB issues when setting up a Riv in a road-ish 
fashion?  i'm assuming i DONT want to go for a compact double with narrow Q, 
but might want to get a wider BB or a set of cranks with a larger tread.   

thanks,
andrew

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[RBW] Canti-rom and dt shifters?

[andrew hill]

hi folks,

i'm in negotiations to pick up a canti-Romulus frameset, and dreaming about the 
eventual build.
one question - looking at picks of the Rom around the interwebs, about half of 
em i see have downtube shifters. 

does this mean that a stock (canti) Romulus have bosses for the dt shifters?  
or were these all added aftermarket?

thanks,
andrew

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Re: [RBW] simpleone sample

[andrew hill]

it's a hair too small for me, or i'd be all over it.  literally.  

On Sep 22, 2010, at 7:23 PM, jandrews_nyc wrote:

> the one on frame specials page of the Riv site..
> Why is it still available?...
> like, what's wrong with it?
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Check this Bombadil!

[andrew hill]

or you can just use a mac.  
the built-in Preview has a "reduce file size" option when you are saving PDFs.

best,
andrew

On Sep 10, 2010, at 6:45 AM, Earl Grey wrote:

> Yes, truly, a bike for a post-apocalyptic world.
> 
> As a complete aside (and as a former Adobe employee), Grant, if you
> are still reading, if you get yourself a copy of Adobe Acrobat
> Professional, you can make pdfs that are 10% the size of this 10MB
> whopper and get better quality to boot. I had a hard time waiting
> patiently for the bomba payload to download.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Gernot
> 
> PS: Contact me off-list if you want more detailed info.
> 
> 
> On Sep 10, 7:27 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
>> On Fri, Sep 10, 2010 at 1:30 AM, cyclotourist  wrote:
>>> Captain Mal approves this comment!
>> 
>> Take my love, take my land
>> Take me where I cannot stand
>> I don't care, I'm still free
>> You can't take MY BIKE from me
>> 
>> -sv
> 
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[RBW] mouschachioed Sams?

[andrew hill]

anyone out running m-bars on a Sam Hillborne?

i'm curious how it handles with em, e.g. how it affects the somewhat light 
front end (esp when in the bends).  i've got a bar, so would try it.. but need 
to invest in some road brake levers first.

i'm thinking that a non dirt drop stem might be more stable than a tall/short 
stem.  any opinions or experience?

-a

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: '91 Bridgestone RB-1 59cm

[andrew hill]

Sadly, I'm now unable to get this from Mike.  Had a minor car issue yesterday 
that turned into a larger issue today.  A case of my car getting in the way of 
cycling.. time to sell the car! 

But on that note.. who wants it? :)

-a


On Aug 29, 2010, at 8:32 PM, cyclotourist wrote:

> Keeping it in the family!
> 
> On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 8:17 PM, Michael_S  wrote:
> Looks like it's sold. Andrew will get it Wed.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> ~Mike~
> 
> On Aug 29, 7:43 pm, Ray Shine  wrote:
> > Put me in line behind Andrew.  Andrew has first dibs. I live in NorCal, but
> > traveling to SoCal later this week.
> >
> > 
> > From: andrew hill 
> > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> > Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 7:19:20 PM
> > Subject: Re: [RBW] FS: '91 Bridgestone RB-1 59cm
> >
> > i'm interested!  where in socal are you - i'm in LA..
> > but i'm 99% sure i'll take it.
> >
> > best,
> > andrew
> >
> > On Aug 29, 2010, at 7:14 PM, Michael_S wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > I just got a new to me Green Rambouillet yesterday and have no room
> > > for the this RB-1.
> > > Paint job is in very good condition, just a few scratches and small
> > > chips. I re-touched most of them.
> > > When I got it everything had been changed from original. I added time
> > > period correct NOS Suntour Sprint dérailleurs and shifters, a nice
> > > Selle Regal saddle and new ITM post, new Nitto 115 45cm bars, vgc Dia
> > > Compe Royal brake calipers with new Tektro levers. I had a very nice
> > > Ritchey 110bcd compact crankset w/ 48-34 rings and used a new IRD
> > > bottom bracket. The wheels are Open Pro CD's with Shimano 600 hubs and
> > > a new 7 speed cassette and chain. Tires are fairly new Conti Gators
> > > 700x25. I'll throw in some low miles Ruffy Tuffys for another $35.
> > > some pics here
> > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347...@n05/sets/72157623929220624/
> >
> > > according to some Reader article posted on Jim's Cyclofiend site this
> > > was Grants favorite year for lugs and his favorite paint scheme.
> > > Thought I would offer it up here 1st before Ebay. Price is $550 plus
> > > shipping. West of the Rockies would be $50 and $65 east. Pick up in
> > > SoCal is free.
> >
> > > send me a PM if you are interested.
> >
> > > ~Mike~
> >
> > > --
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> > - Show quoted text -
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> -- 
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> Redlands, CA
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunqaposter!

[andrew hill]

but.. but...  his bike's only got one top tube.



On Aug 30, 2010, at 4:53 PM, cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:

> Those must be early Ergon grips.
> 
> On Aug 30, 4:43 pm, William  wrote:
>> The Hunqaposter is Hunq-larious, in my opinion.  Primal caveman with
>> stone helmet hiding from three wooly mammoths, but he's got his
>> wristwatch!
>> 
>> http://www.rivbike.com/assets/payloads/356/original_hunqaposter.jpg
> 
> 

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Re: [RBW] FS: '91 Bridgestone RB-1 59cm

[andrew hill]

i'm interested!  where in socal are you - i'm in LA.. 
but i'm 99% sure i'll take it.

best,
andrew

On Aug 29, 2010, at 7:14 PM, Michael_S wrote:

> I just got a new to me Green Rambouillet yesterday and have no room
> for the this RB-1.
> Paint job is in very good condition, just a few scratches and small
> chips. I re-touched most of them.
> When I got it everything had been changed from original. I added time
> period correct NOS Suntour Sprint dérailleurs and shifters, a nice
> Selle Regal saddle and new ITM post, new Nitto 115 45cm bars, vgc Dia
> Compe Royal brake calipers with new Tektro levers. I had a very nice
> Ritchey 110bcd compact crankset w/ 48-34 rings and used a new IRD
> bottom bracket. The wheels are Open Pro CD's with Shimano 600 hubs and
> a new 7 speed cassette and chain. Tires are fairly new Conti Gators
> 700x25. I'll throw in some low miles Ruffy Tuffys for another $35.
> some pics here 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347...@n05/sets/72157623929220624/
> 
> according to some Reader article posted on Jim's Cyclofiend site this
> was Grants favorite year for lugs and his favorite paint scheme.
> Thought I would offer it up here 1st before Ebay. Price is $550 plus
> shipping. West of the Rockies would be $50 and $65 east. Pick up in
> SoCal is free.
> 
> send me a PM if you are interested.
> 
> ~Mike~
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: VO 50.4 BCD Crankset is here

[andrew hill]

I don't really understand about crank length and it's benefits. 

My gut says that with short legs I'd benefit from shorter cranks, but I've 
always used 175 (2 mtn bikes and 1 Riv Sam).
I do have some kneed problems on one side, especially an IT band problem that 
cropped after a century in June.. perhaps less bend would help that.

Why do you like em, Pete?

best,
andrew



On Aug 19, 2010, at 8:00 PM, pruckelshaus wrote:

> Yes, but it's too bad that Chris has decided that nobody needs to ride
> 172.5mm cranks.  He's a fool for making that kind of decision, and has
> certainly lost a good amount of business because of it...including my
> own.  This would be the perfect crank for my needs, if only it were
> available as a 172.5.
> 
> Pete
> 
> On Aug 9, 11:04 pm, Michael_S  wrote:
>> The new 50.4 bcd TA Cyclotourist copy crankset is now in stock at VO.
>> Looks very nice and shiny! The stock 46-30 combo seems like it would
>> work well most flatter places. Though it seems like 46t ring would get
>> a lot use to me since the 30 would only be needed climbing?  What
>> freewheel/cassette do most people run in hilly areas with this set?
> 
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Re: [RBW] Heron riders might be interested

[andrew hill]

ya Seth, that SO 56 is still available.. i just think it's a hair too small 
(and Grant agreed when I called :)

-a

On Aug 18, 2010, at 7:47 PM, Seth Vidal wrote:

> On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 10:40 PM, andrew hill  wrote:
>> looks like it didn't meet the reserve price.   i was the 2nd highest bidder, 
>> at $956.78
>> 
>> while that Heron was super-attractive to me with it's long top tube and 
>> horizontal dropouts (i'm trying to get a singslespeed together w/o chain 
>> tensioners and w long tt), i just couldn't bring myself to pay over $1K for 
>> it, or even up to that, with the $65 shipping.
>> 
>> i came to the game late, however - got into Rivs after the Heron had moved 
>> on / been EOL'd.
>> what was the original retail price of a Heron Touring frame - anyone 
>> remember?
>> 
>> and on a similar note.. anyone have a rivish frame with standover in the low 
>> to mid 80s, horizontal dropouts, and a long top tube they might want to get 
>> out of their garage?   or.. a  58cm Quickbeam?  :D
>> 
> 
> so close - isn't that 56 simple one still up on rivbike?
> 
> -sv
> 
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Re: [RBW] Heron riders might be interested

[andrew hill]

looks like it didn't meet the reserve price.   i was the 2nd highest bidder, at 
$956.78

while that Heron was super-attractive to me with it's long top tube and 
horizontal dropouts (i'm trying to get a singslespeed together w/o chain 
tensioners and w long tt), i just couldn't bring myself to pay over $1K for it, 
or even up to that, with the $65 shipping.  

i came to the game late, however - got into Rivs after the Heron had moved on / 
been EOL'd.
what was the original retail price of a Heron Touring frame - anyone remember?

and on a similar note.. anyone have a rivish frame with standover in the low to 
mid 80s, horizontal dropouts, and a long top tube they might want to get out of 
their garage?   or.. a  58cm Quickbeam?  :D

cheers,
andrew


On Aug 13, 2010, at 12:37 AM, James Warren wrote:

> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Raleigh-Headlamp-bracket-Stem-Mount-Heron-/350383260715?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
> 
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Re: [RBW] Want some 700C Hetres or Pari-Motos? Sign up here

[andrew hill]

Add me to that list.  :)

Best,
Andrew

On Aug 17, 2010, at 8:13 PM, Earl Grey wrote:

> Note, I have absolutely no power to make this happen, but if there are
> enough of us who would pre-order such a beast, perhaps someone with
> actual power would make this happen. Please specify if you have a
> preference for a Pari-Moto (38mm, ultra-light) or a Hetre (42mm,
> slightly thicker tread, but still very supple).
> 
> Personally, I'd be happy to prepay $120 for a pair of either of them.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Gernot
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: moustache mirror mounting... where? what kind of mirror?

[andrew hill]

i put the Rivendell sold german mirror on my bullmoose bars with the stalk down:
http://salamander.net/stage/Sam_cockpit.jpg

i have the same mirror on an embullmoosed Bombadil like this too, but even more 
rotated down/back than on the Sam (on the Sam the angle of the thumbies 
prevents me from rotating the mirror stalk further down before the housings 
bump)

it works pretty well on both, although when i hop off/on the seat/pedals at 
lights, etc (esp on the Sam), i sometimes knee the mirror up - but it just 
rotates on the bar, and i slap it back down.  

not sure if the m-bars will provide as easy a mounting point even down-wards.. 
the issue i found with that direction is you need to get pretty far out 
laterally before it works.  maybe just beyond where your hand would go in the 
end-grip position? even on the curve, e.g. next to the brake hood, might work, 
but it would prob have to be on the outside.  e.g. this is too close to the 
frame to work perfectly with this particular mirror:
http://salamander.net/stage/woodandcork.jpg  and it shows mostly body and 
quickly-magnified cars right when they rush by.

i've got some m-bars and another "german mirror" that i'm going to mount up 
into an alternate cockpit.. but i think i'm going to put them on a 
yet-to-be-determined frame.  :)

would love to see pics of all your different cockpit setups when you have em 
working.

cheers,
andrew

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Re: [RBW] Hillbourne handling - was: Grant discounts the value of top tube length

[andrew hill]

> 
> This note on the frame drawing thread struck me, as both Andrew and
> Patrick Moore have said the same thing. I'm surprised, actually, that
> even on the slacker (even by Riv standards) Hillbourne seat tube you
> still feel the need to push the saddle so far back, though that would
> certainly explain the feeling that the front-end is too light. Seat
> positioning is a highly individual thing, but it seems like in these
> cases it's more a way to compensate for a short-feeling TT. Forgive me
> if i've missed something in earlier posts, but have you both tried
> longer stems? How does your Hillbourne position compare to other bikes
> (esp. setback from BB and reach)?
> 
> -- 
> Bill Connell
> St. Paul, MN
> 

Well, my stats (phb 84.5, 5'11, short limbs, all torso) have always made bike 
fittings hard.  with "typical" road bikes i've been way too far forward out 
over the front wheel, and it unweights the rear wheel too much, causes me to 
endo easily, etc.  this isn't an issue on most mountain bikes.  it's not much 
of an issue with the SH, either, with the B-17 back on a set-back seatpost.   
though the pedals still feel like they are wee bit too far "back".  i've 
tweaked the height of the Bullmoose bars and seat to be a pretty-good-feel set 
up, and the bike DOES track extremely well 90% of the time - i just have to pay 
more attention to the front end when climbing or turning semi-sharply on flats, 
or i find the bike might add in some turn i wasn't expecting.  

in comparison, all the riding i've done in the past couple years that hasn't 
been on this Sam has been on a 19" Fisher Cobia 29er:
http://fisherbikes.com/bike/archivemodel/398 

that frame geometry completely eliminates any fit issue for me, even though 
it's got a short effective top tube (622). i did add a height-adjustable stem 
to get me a bit more upright/take pressure off my hands.  but it's got better 
transfer of power than my Sam, and feels much faster to accelerate (fork 
locked) even with 2.5" knobbies, compared to the Sam with 40mm Shwalbe Mara 
Sups.  i dont know enough about geometry to compare the SH 56cm to the Cobia 
19".. there are obviously a lot of differences - but some dimension is 
affecting both fit and power transfer pretty significantly (with a similar 
drivetrain, crank length, cassette,etc).

best,
andrew

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant discounts the value of top tube length

[andrew hill]

it's a factor for me too - 84.5 pbh and 5'11 for me.

not totally sure how to compensate.. i end up pushing the seat way back and 
putting the bars up high .. but i think that unweights the front end a bit too 
much, and contributes to wandering handling on my Sam Hillborne.  

-andrew

On Aug 9, 2010, at 8:01 PM, kps wrote:

> 
> 
> On Aug 9, 9:35 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
>> Every woman I know has had a tremendously hard time fitting frames (whatever
>> the maker) due to "reach."  
> 
> it's definitely a factor for me.  i'm 5'8-1/2" or so, with a pbh of
> 84.45
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: do quickbeams abound?

[andrew hill]

thanks Esteban,

you might be right - a Handsome might not fit the bill.. but i'm still torn.
making it easier is the fact that i've already got a Hillborne, so have my 
go-anywhere needs covered :)

best,
andrew

On Jul 28, 2010, at 2:56 PM, Esteban wrote:

> Andrew - without knowing your attraction to the Devil -- if you're
> interested in the QB because its a Grant-design, Riv-quality ride, I
> don't think the Devil would be a suitable replacement by any stretch.
> 
> That being said, you could pick up a *waterford*-made Hillborne and
> set it up with an eccentric bottom bracket and run it as a
> singlespeed.  Then, when the Simple-one comes out (or when a 58cm QB
> pops up), convert the Hillborne to a geared go-anywhere bike.  Also,
> if you're willing to wait just a bit, you can have any number of
> custom builders craft you a nice singlespeed in the spirit of the QB.
> 
> Just a thought or two.
> 
> Esteban
> San Diego, Calif.
> 
> On Jul 28, 1:20 pm, andrew hill  wrote:
>> hi folks,
>> 
>> just poking this thread (again) to see if anyone has a 58 Quickbeam (stock 
>> setup) that they might be willing to sell..?  i'm considering going for a 
>> Handsome Devil if not..
>> 
>> would prefer a Rivendell, obviously, but not sure i want to wait (some 
>> indeterminate amount of time) for the SimpleOne.
>> 
>> thanks,
>> andrew
>> 
>> On Feb 27, 2010, at 4:31 PM, neurodrum wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> just wondering if anyone has a 58 cm quickbeam that is seeking a new
>>> home.
>> 
>>> google shows a few have sold used in the past year, and since i'm
>>> toying with the idea of buying one, i'm wondering if anyone on the
>>> list is toying with the idea of selling one :)
>> 
>>> i would also be interested in hearing about any other used Rivendell
>>> frame about that size.
>> 
>>> thanks,
>>> andrew
> 
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[RBW] Re: do quickbeams abound?

[andrew hill]

hi folks,

just poking this thread (again) to see if anyone has a 58 Quickbeam (stock 
setup) that they might be willing to sell..?  i'm considering going for a 
Handsome Devil if not.. 

would prefer a Rivendell, obviously, but not sure i want to wait (some 
indeterminate amount of time) for the SimpleOne.

thanks,
andrew

On Feb 27, 2010, at 4:31 PM, neurodrum wrote:

> just wondering if anyone has a 58 cm quickbeam that is seeking a new
> home.
> 
> google shows a few have sold used in the past year, and since i'm
> toying with the idea of buying one, i'm wondering if anyone on the
> list is toying with the idea of selling one :)
> 
> i would also be interested in hearing about any other used Rivendell
> frame about that size.
> 
> thanks,
> andrew

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Re: [RBW] Re: One reason for us to like bigger tires

[andrew hill]

Charlie,

I've not switched from anything else, but have Mara Supreme 40's (not sure of 
actual) on my 58cm Hillborne, and would describe them exactly as you describe 
your Marathon 47s.  e.g. slow to accelerate, sure, solid, fast (once up to 
speed), and smooth over any surface at 60psi.  

they seem more punc-resistant than any other tires i've had, but i've only put 
~ 1K miles on em (and i don't generally puncture tires).

so.. maybey you wouldn't notice much difference?  :)

best,
andrew

On Jul 25, 2010, at 11:31 AM, charlie wrote:

> Lovin my Marathon 700x47 (41's) more every time I ride them. Heavy
> they are and harder to accelerate but they inspire confidence and they
> only need about 60 psi to ride fast and smooth. I can go over nearly
> any surface I want to ride on with out worry of flatting and chip seal
> roads are way less jiggly using them than my old 32's at 90 psi. I've
> come to the conclusion that when riding by myself I prefer a softer
> bigger tire and don't notice the speed loss. When I ride with others I
> tend to get left behind somewhat but I don' t think a lighter tire
> would really help much. I did learn one thing recently and that is,
> carry a few extra chain links with you. My friends old Bianchi broke a
> link and luckily he had a couple extra links and I had the tools and a
> shop rag.
> Back to tires.I was considering the Marathon Supremes but
> wondered if anyone has switched to these and noticed a dramatic
> improvement in performance over the 700x47's. Also do you think your
> puncture resistance is any less using the Supremes.
> 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell as a beater bike?

[andrew hill]

what about the Handsome Devil?  that could prob be built up for sub-$1K pretty 
easily.

On Jul 18, 2010, at 2:17 PM, Johnny Alien wrote:

> Those are both hi-tensile very low quality steel. I can't imagine
> Rivendell doing anything like that even for a budget bike. The
> Rivendell name still needs to go on it.  Neither is anywhere near what
> Surly or VO has. Even the lower level Bridgestones back in the day
> were CrMo. I was looking for steel that might be something Grant would
> possibly use.

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Re: [RBW] Please help me wrap my head around this

[andrew hill]

Try a bullmoose bar with Ergon cork grips - i have this on one of my Rivs and 
it's muy vintage looking, and prob solves the position issue.  On my other i 
have "woodies" - not as ergo, but almost.

Best,
Andrew


On Jul 15, 2010, at 5:47 PM, d2mini wrote:

> Hi, sometimes excessive google searching gives me a headache. :P
> 
> I currently have noodle bars on my homer commuter, 42cm width. My
> commute is about 12.5 miles each way and sometimes they can get a bit
> uncomfortable. I spend all my time on the tops.
> 
> I also have a specialized mountain bike that I hit the trails with
> during lunch. The trails are pretty insane, all tree roots and stuff.
> We'll do a good mix of the trails and road, usually about 12 miles
> total.
> 
> Between the two bikes, the flat bars of the mtn bike are drastically
> more comfortable for me. I think it's two things... the hand/wrist
> position and the wide hand position, wider than my shoulders. They
> have a rise and a backward sweep, typical of pretty much every
> production mtn bike these days. So I'm thinking of fitting that style
> bar to my homer and wondering if you guys have any advice on making
> the switch as painless as possible, in terms of what parts to use,
> what needs to be swapped out, etc. I do really like my bar-end
> shifters so if I could use those with thumbies or something that would
> be cool. I would also like to fit a pair of retro looking ergo grips,
> which i assume only come in mtn bike bar diameters?
> 
> All advice appreciated.
> Thanks!
> 
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Re: [RBW] Time For New Riv Wool Jersey

[andrew hill]

i'd really love a NON-wool one.. i'm mildly allergic to wool, and even the 
super-soft longsleeve NZ wool shirt i bought from Rivendell produced a lovely 
rash after wearing it for one ride.

so ya, i know how good wool is.. but some of us might actually prefer something 
else in a fabric.

cheers,
andrew

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Re: [RBW] shoe suggestions

[andrew hill]

hi Bill,

Check out the Keen Coronado.  They have a regular (canvas) version and a bike 
specific version with a harder toe cap, stiffer sole, and suede-like upper.  I 
like both and use both when riding, but if you try em the bike specific version 
runs a half to a full size small.

cheers,
andrew

On Jun 24, 2010, at 3:53 PM, fulf wrote:

> I'm riding an Atlantis with grip king pedals-which I really like but
> I'm having trouble finding a good shoe that's comfortable. The Adidas
> Samba is too narrow for my foot and am getting pain after an hour
> riding. If anyone has a medium to wide foot and footwear they really
> like, I'd love to hear some suggestions.   Bill
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: what would make the best..

[andrew hill]

Thanks for all the suggestions folks.

Lighter rubber and/or lighter wheels on the Sam are an excellent place to start.
And I appreciate the suggestion to enjoy the slowness.  :)   

But it's not really an illusion - on a different bike (29er mtn bike with 2.2" 
knobbys) i can do my 6 mile morning commute (in) in about 20 minutes if I hit 
most of the lights.  on the Sam, it's more like 30.  for commuting I could care 
less about the speed, but it's definitely different on the two bikes, and not 
in the direction I'd expect. 

For a 100 mile push though.. I do care if it's 6 hours or 8, on the bike.   
I'll try lighter rubber and figure out a 30 mile training course or something 
and see how it feels.  But I do think an expanded geo SimpleOne, ur-Amos, etc., 
is in my future.  

Best,
Andrew

On Jun 20, 2010, at 5:54 PM, Bill Gibson wrote:

> Perception of speed is just that: subjective. Enjoy your ride! To go
> fast, get a good night's sleep, eat & drink well, be well, don't wear
> flappy clothes, find your fast tires (which may or may not the most
> durable). In that order.
> 
> The engine, the air, then tires.  If it's hilly, OK, lose weight, but
> on the open plain, don't worry. On rolling hills extra momentum might
> even help.
> 
> On rough roads, my ancient prejudice has recently been scientifically
> confirmed: fatter, lower pressure tires may seem slower, but aren't;
> the song of tubulars and high pressure skinny tires is a siren song.
> 
> On Sun, Jun 20, 2010 at 3:02 PM, Angus  wrote:
>> Andrew,
>> 
>> If it were me, changing the tires to a good quality lighter weight
>> tire would be the first thing I would do.  Panaracer Paselas (non-
>> tourguard) roll reasonably well and relatively inexpensive.  I've got
>> 32s (measure 28-29) on the Rambouillet and 35s (measure 35) on the
>> Quickbeam.  Heavier/more durable tires on the Rambouillet were
>> noticeably/measurably slower.
>> 
>> Angus
>> 
>> On Jun 13, 9:17 pm, andrew hill  wrote:
>>> hi folks,
>>> 
>>> i loved riding my first century recently, on a Sam Hillborne, but it was a 
>>> pretty slow (though mostly comfortable) push. so the way i have it set up 
>>> it's excellent for city commuting and loaded touring / randonneuring, but 
>>> still think i want a gofast for club/training rides, built up with lighter 
>>> wheels/rubber, etc.
>>> 
>>> the thing is - the expanded geometry of the Sam fits my build (and that of 
>>> a few other odd ducks who have recently posted) at 5'11 with an 84.5 pbh, 
>>> rounding up.
>>> 
>>> so - of the current frames new or in circulation, what lightish, 
>>> expandedish frame should i be looking for for?  should i simply try another 
>>> Sam?  maybe a size down with a longer stem?  :)
>>> 
>>> just musing - but i figured y'all would have some opinions.
>>> 
>>> thanks,
>>> andrew
>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Bill Gibson
> Tempe, Arizona, USA
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Re: [RBW] Thesis, antithesis, synthesis, or, ignorance banish'd

[andrew hill]

i have a mini front on my Sam with a small trunksack.  

that fully loaded (5+ lbs including mini U-lock, pump, tube, tools, sunscreen, 
wallet, snacks, etc) settles the front end noticeably when climbing.  i'm also 
like you - i like my set-back seat positions.  filling both a front and rear 
trunksack to capacity (5+ lbs front, 10+ lbs rear) stabilizes the ride further, 
to super-smooth.  steering the front end while climbing is still a bit "too" 
responsive, but powering up an incline doesn't make the front end flop.  so of 
course ymmv, but 1:2 ratio of front:rear loading works pretty well on my 56cm 
Sam.  i've got bull moose bars on it, which may make a difference.  and my rear 
rack is a small nitto (R-15?) which is not terribly stiffening as all 4 
attachment points adjust.

best,
andrew



On Jun 19, 2010, at 7:05 PM, Bill Gibson wrote:

> YES! Success, and perseverance furthered! (Anything is possible, yes?!)
> 
> Low Riders, I say. What I know about the porteur comes from reading
> Jan Heine's publications and the intertubes, but the gist is that you
> should have the right front end and the right size tires. But my
> Quickbeam handles a front load better than I expected from my previous
> experience with 1970s Sport-touring frame (Eddy Merkyx/Falcon 531db)
> and my 1997 Cannondale F900 mountain bike frame front loaded.
> 
> I would like to find these: Super C Limpet Front Pannier System, which
> is pretty far down the page at
> http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/carradice.asp
> 
> and not currently available.
> 
> On Sat, Jun 19, 2010 at 6:22 PM, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>> 
>> It was in shallow retrospect grossly, ineptly and almost culpably ignorant 
>> of me to think I could just take 1 1/2 times a bike's weight and shove it on 
>> the back anyhow and expect the bike to handle normally. Anyway, I just got 
>> back from a brief 17 mile out 'n' back -- flat, no hills, but a few modest 
>> curves -- on the SH, this time with 42 lb in back BUT in the Ortliebs 
>> properly installed on the Logo. *What* a huge difference. It's at least as 
>> good as the Motobecane, probably a bit better -- with this amount of weight 
>> -- thanks to the stiffer rack (I assume it's stiffer; it's a Tubus and it 
>> has more struts) and, I daresay, stiffer frame -- it's not light 531, 
>> anyway. The bike still wanders, and I expect that after a couple of hours on 
>> it even this amount of wandering would get tiresome, but it is hugely, 
>> emphatically and excessively better than with the Axioms hanging off the 
>> rear of the rack. How obvious in retrospect!
>> Anyway, I think that the ideal, that will make this bike quite wonderful as 
>> a tourer -- and I deliberately chose it over the beefier Atlantis -- will be 
>> to take, say, 15 or so lb from the rear and put it on the front.
>> Which leads to the question: how best to load the front? Platform or porteur 
>> rack and big bag, or low riders? I guess, from what others say, that I will 
>> be carrying 40 to 50 lb total of load and, again, perhaps 3:2 rear:front.
>> So, porteur or low riders? And, what is the best value for each -- I mean, 
>> brands, models? I know Tubus and Ortlieb are safe bets, but they are of 
>> course expensive.
>> Thanks. I may have an Ostrich and a Nashbar rack, plus decaleur bits, to 
>> sell.
>> 
>> --
>> Patrick Moore
>> Albuquerque, NM
>> For professional resumes, contact
>> Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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> 
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> Tempe, Arizona, USA
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Re: [RBW] Re: what would make the best..

[andrew hill]

ah.. i had forgotten the not-Amos.  
that or a SimpleOne will prob be my next, then..

thanks!
andrew

On Jun 14, 2010, at 11:37 AM, Jeremy Till wrote:

> Don't forget the upcoming Rivendell/Soma collaboration (Amos?)-
> basically a road bike for 57mm calipers (like Ram, Rom, and Roadeo)
> with the expanded geos.  Sounds like exactly what you're looking for.
> 

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Re: [RBW] Re: what would make the best..

[andrew hill]

thanks guys - good suggestion.

i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara 
Supremems.
a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea.  and 
then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :)

best,
andrew

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