[RCSE] Stab airfoil recommendations
I'm looking for recommendations on a stab airfoil for the full-flying stabilizer on an open-class thermal duration sailplane. I was thinking SD8020, but have heard that it has a dedband and requires turbulation. Any comments? Thanks, Glenn Harker Heights, TX RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] NEW PRODUCTS
Hi Gang!!: New scale gliders and accessories have been posted to our Web Site: http://www.hobbyclub.com best regards, Alberto Hobby Club RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Grease for Servos?
What sort of grease do folks recommend when replacing servo gears? tnx jtm RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] HS-50 vs HS-60 servo question
The HS50s are quite a bit lighter, draw less current and have less torque than the HS60s. The HS50s will need to be removed from the plane to repair any gear problems since you need to get a thin blade screwdriver into the little slots to pry loose the top. I've found the HS60/80s can be repaired in place in foamies by getting to the bottom screw heads and then pulling off the top with some needle nose pliers. In a more traditional HLG it's probably a wash for repair: both will need removing. I just repaired a busted HS50 10 minutes ago and it went very smoothly. I wouldn't hesistate to do a field repair now that I've done it once at the breakfast table! tnx jtm - Original Message - From: "Cliff Schwinger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[RCSE]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, December 05, 1999 9:46 AM Subject: [RCSE] HS-50 vs HS-60 servo question > I am now building a Skybench Osprey hlg and am planning on installing > those tiny sub-micro servos. Are Hitech HS-50's a good servo choice? > Can the gears be replaced with the same ease as those in the HS-80 > servo? The HS-60 servo seems to be only slightly larger than the > HS-50. What are the advantages of using the HS-50 instead of the HS-60? > > Thanks in advance for any advice. > > Below is a link to a photo of my LB2 that I took several weeks ago while > my son was flying it. I use this photo for my background "wallpaper" on > my monitor and I thought I would share it with anyone out there who > might want to look at a cool hlg on their monitor. The photo is not > flawless - I took it with a cheapo camera, but I guess beauty is in the > eye of the beholder! This is an amazing sailplane. My son and I have > learned to thermal with it (we've been flying for about 8 months). We > launch it with our "atomic mini-high start", which consists of the > tubing from a Dynaflight upstart and a Skybench mini-high start and 80 > yards of fishing line for some amazingly high launches. > > http://www.geocities.com/cliff2345/hlg/lilbird/103.jpg > > Cliff > RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Seamless mold
Steve, Thanks for the description. Over the years I have asked the questions and have always marveled at how the PROs like you do it. Thanks for helping us. Chris RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Re: Seamless mold
Wow so much nice information from Chris [EMAIL PROTECTED], Daryl [EMAIL PROTECTED], and Steve, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thank you guys, sounds like I should try this. Always had the itch. (Is that the reason for the name Chris.) :-) What intrigues me, and I believe this was discussed a while back, What's an easy method of making the mold? I'm sure there are quite a few different methods here. Chris you have done such a nice job of describing the fuselage construction on your web page do you have any similar info on the mold process. Steve Meyer http://www.mcs.net/~stmeyer/ [EMAIL PROTECTED] S.O.A.R. in Gurnee, IL S.O.A.R. Web Page http://www.mcs.net/~stmeyer/SOAR/ RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] HS-50 vs HS-60 servo question
I am now building a Skybench Osprey hlg and am planning on installing those tiny sub-micro servos. Are Hitech HS-50s a good servo choice? Can the gears be replaced with the same ease as those in the HS-80 servo? The HS-60 servo seems to be only slightly larger than the HS-50. What are the advantages of using the HS-50 instead of the HS-60? Thanks in advance for any advice. Below is a link to a photo of my LB2 that I took several weeks ago while my son was flying it. I use this photo for my background "wallpaper" on my monitor and I thought I would share it with anyone out there who might want to look at a cool hlg on their monitor. The photo is not flawless - I took it with a cheapo camera, but I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder! This is an amazing sailplane. My son and I have learned to thermal with it (weve been flying for about 8 months). We launch it with our "atomic mini-high start", which consists of the tubing from a Dynaflight upstart and a Skybench mini-high start and 80 yards of fishing line for some amazingly high launches. http://www.geocities.com/cliff2345/hlg/lilbird/103.jpg Cliff RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] FW: For sale
-Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Sunday, December 05, 1999 12:05 AM To: John Kirchstein Subject: For sale I have for sale two items: the first, is a 1/4 scale Wik Modell Speed Astir w/servos ready to fly and Roland Sommer Merlin as a kit. I can be reached at [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Fwd: [RCSE] Re: Seamless mold
In a message dated 12/5/99 8:35:21 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << A method I learned while working with the Master himself, Mark Allen, was to use a "roller" on a stick. We'd use a piece of brass tube, I don't know the exact diameter, maybe 3/8", maybe 1/4", a short piece of hanger wire (shaped like a "U", and a roller of some sort on the end. I've used all kinds of things to create this roller: 3 or 4 quarters with a hole drilled in the middle, pennies or dimes >> I have found that music wire (piano wire) works best - Hanger wire is too soft. Also, instead of using coins (they tend to flop from side to side unless they are mounted perfectly), try this - It works great, and the rollers I use, have been in use for years (same rollers, just the occasional replacement brass tube): Find a 9/16" hex nut and bolt - The bolt itself should be 1/4" in diameter. Screw the nut all the way on the bolt. Then cut the excess bolt away - This will leave you with a semi round "ish" ball that is flat enough to mount in a drill press. Drill a 3/32" hole thru the center. Then shape the edges of the assembly to create a smooth donut shape. Then simply feed the steel fork piece thru, and glass the forks to the end of your brass tube (use a little silica filler and light weight glass. The nice thing about this method, is that in the event that you forget to dip the wheel end in a bath of acetone, you can always torch it with fire to burn away the cured resin - This will clear away any material binding the rolling action inside the steel donut - Just make sure and keep the heat away from the glassed forks and tube. The brass tube is also nice because you can bend it accordingly to get to those hard to reach places inside any given fuse mold - Then simple bend it back. After roughly every 400 or so fuses, simply get a new tube... See Ya, Steve
Re: [RCSE] Re: Seamless mold
Hi Guys, > The tricky part is getting the overlapping FG to bond flush inside. Years > ago molders told me to run a wet brush on a stick down the length of the > overlapping FG to get it down. The only problem, is that you have to have > some access for the brush to reach. For my Micro fusesand the seamless > method, I take a coat hanger, cut it, bend it straight then on the end I > bend a very tight round. The end will now slide on the FG and I can bend > the coat hanger to reach the wierd spots. Cheap, and you can throw it away > later. The coat hanger will work fine. Although for larger fuses, probably won't have the strength to really work the seam the full length of the fuse. A method I learned while working with the Master himself, Mark Allen, was to use a "roller" on a stick. We'd use a piece of brass tube, I don't know the exact diameter, maybe 3/8", maybe 1/4", a short piece of hanger wire (shaped like a "U", and a roller of some sort on the end. I've used all kinds of things to create this roller: 3 or 4 quarters with a hole drilled in the middle, pennies or dimes, I've even cut the end off a X-acto Knife and drilled a hole in it. (It all depends on the size of the fuse, and the access you have) Use the wire, thread it through the hole in your roller, and stick it into the end of the brass tube. Make certain that it rolls VERY freely. Now you've got your roller on a stick. You can use this to get all the way down your mold to (maybe you've heard this term) "roll out the seam." It is important to design your mold to give you as much access as you can. Cut away the segments of the mold where you're going to cut the finished part. This will give you access. You'll find that by using the brass tube, you can bend it to get into the hard to reach areas. This way you'll find you can roll the whole seam, and end up with less voids. It also won't tend to pull the cloth like a bended wire might. You can really wail on it! It'll take some practice, but you should be able to make perfect fuses in no time flat. Store the end in a coffee pot of acetone or denatured alcohol, and it will be ready for it's next use. If it does freeze up on ya, we used to hit the end with a torch, and burn off the cured resin. (Although I don't recommend this, cuz this could be hazardous to your health) But it is kinda fun! Good luck with it, and let me know when you've got it perfected. For some reason, I always need fuses. ;-) Daryl .. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Re: Seamless mold
In a message dated 12/5/99 12:31:03 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << The tricky part is getting the overlapping FG to bond flush inside. Years ago molders told me to run a wet brush on a stick down the length of the overlapping FG to get it down. The only problem, is that you have to have some access for the brush to reach. >> Hi Chris. I agree with most of what you've said here... Although I have used this same method for very tiny fuses - I have had better results by allowing both halves to tack-up a little before adding the extra resin to the seam line and overlap just prior to joining. For me, the slight stiffness of the overlapping glass helps to make sure that it lays in flat and against the other half of the mold - This still leaves a seam, just a very thin one. Not exactly seamless, but a very clean line. For all other fuses, I use long brass tubes with home made forks/and steel wheel assemblies, to literally "roll out" the overlap inside both the top and bottom seams of the fuses - In this case, joining as soon as possible works best. See Ya, Steve RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Ibex
A long long time ago.1975, plans were offered for the Ibex in R/C Sportsman magazine also Hartman Fiberglass offered the pod. Does anyone have the plans/fuse or information on them? Thanks David Crutchley Bloomington, Il. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE]
help RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [RCSE] Molded 'Herra' weight ?
Richard, The lightest one I weighed was 48oz dry. 68 oz RTF. Depending on radio and installation the average Hera weight is 71 oz RTF. The Hera "Special" w/ballast tubes and heavier wing lay up is about 75oz RTF. Tom Copp Composite Specialties Your friendly Hera dealer. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Saturday, December 04, 1999 3:32 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [RCSE] Molded 'Herra' weight ? Can anyone out there give me the weight of a Herra with and without radio installation? Thanks in advance! Richard Chicago RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Electric Stuff - Delete if your a purist
Not strictly soaring related but... A few of us like to fly electric "toys" before and after our regular TD contests. Anybody know if there is a US distributor for MTM International electric motors ? Looking for an S-200 Bienchen and/or Humming Bird HB-5 Glider set. These are small 280 size geared electric motors for Mosquito size powered sailplanes. Thanks in advance for any info Garth Warner TPG RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Re: Seamless mold
Bob, Sorry this took a bit of time. I have been laying up my Itch Micro fuses with the wet seam method. I work fast. I mix up epoxy, and sometimes cool it down in an ice bath to slow the curing if it is hot out. Anyway, I lay up each fuse half. By getting the epoxy spread thin, the cure time is increased. I cut the overlap as soon as I can after getting everything wetted out, and all air bubbles out of the fuse sides. I then look at how much epoxy I have left and often mix up a small fresh batch. I try to mix up as little epoxy as I can since if it is there mixed up, it will get added to the part and add weight. The first epoxy mixing on the cloth will stiffen a bit but not much. This I think is an advantage for me. I then brush a coat of resin along the flush edge of the FG part where the overlap FG will seam. I then brush excess resin along the outside of the overlapping FG cloth where the two parts of the mold itself will join. I do this to make sure that the resin fills in the seam. I also do this because I try to lay up the main parts with as little resin as I can to keep the fuse light. When I put the mold halves together I slide the parts sideways to get the overlapping FG flap to bond to the opposite part. If you have take a look at my mold pictures you will know what I mean. The excess resin fills in the seam, and produces a flash around the finished part. The resin oozes out if there is too much. I cut and sand this off when taking the part out of the mold. The sooner you put the halves together the better. The tricky part is getting the overlapping FG to bond flush inside. Years ago molders told me to run a wet brush on a stick down the length of the overlapping FG to get it down. The only problem, is that you have to have some access for the brush to reach. For my Micro fusesand the seamless method, I take a coat hanger, cut it, bend it straight then on the end I bend a very tight round. The end will now slide on the FG and I can bend the coat hanger to reach the wierd spots. Cheap, and you can throw it away later. This is where design of the mold is important. Many molds have some open ends, like for canopies, wing saddles, or even down the tailboom from the end. If the opening is only via the tail boom, then is it fairly tricky to reach everywhere. I often cut a portion of the mold out where I know I will be cutting FG away after the part comes out. In nearly all of the molding descriptions I have read, rarely do I see this problem addressed. I mayt be wrong, though. It is very important however. I do not add color, like black, to my molds as I often hold the mold up to a 100 watt worklight. I can then seem where the coat hanger reaches, and I know at least I am trying to get everthing down without bubbles or wrinkles. Often you can sight down parts through holes and see the seam, just like in a nosecone. This has take some practice with me, and when I lay up more than 2 parts in a row I can get this step down well. For those who see this take a look at my web site to see my references. http://www.scrollsander.com I hope this helps. Chris >Chris, > >Thanks for taking the time to post such a step by step process. For me, >a picture is worth much more than thousands and thousands of words. I >am able to fully grasp the the entire process up to a point. It's >getting the fuze halves together and ensuring the seam is mating >properly. First, how long after laying up the two halves do you wait to >actually do the glass trimming? Second, after trimming the two halves >is there an addition wait time to put the halves together? >With the nose cone it's easy to see inside and inspect the seam but with >the closed fuze it seems you are at the mercy of faith. > > >Thanks >Bob Germano >[EMAIL PROTECTED] > RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
