Re: [RCSE] Directions to Los Banos

2000-06-14 Thread terrytrimble

Richard ,
if the wind is not blowing hit the Sunset beach campgrounds on the coast
only 80 miles away.sunset beach has a RC glider port fun place to fly
beautiful campground pines tree at the beach.
Later,
Terry Trimble
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Soaring Tools the EPP info website
http://www.geocities.com/soaringtools/
Encinitas, California
- Original Message -
From: "Richard Bothell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "RCSE" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 12:34 PM
Subject: [RCSE] Directions to Los Banos


> I just got the directions to Los Banos.  Thanks to those who replyed.
Rick
> Bothell, Prescott Valley, AZ
>
>
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Re: [RCSE] Aircraft design books???

2000-06-14 Thread Mike Popescu

Frank wrote:
> 
> Besides "Aerodynamic design of Radioguided Sailplanes" by E. Gale and "Model
> Airplane Aerodynamics" by M Simmons, what other design books are available?
> 
> What are their publication dates and ISBN #s??  Where can they be
> obtained???
> 
> Thanks
> Frank
> 
> RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send "subscribe" and 
>"unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Frank, you may want to read Wing Theory by Robert T Jones, Priceton
University Press, Aerodynamics of Wings and Bodies by Holt Ashley and
Marten Landahl Dover Publications Inc New York and for much easier
understanding please read Thermal Soaring by George Stringwell RM Books
a division of Chart Hobby Distributor LTD., England. You may want to
avoid the use of any existing softwares prepared for the purpose,
because it will lock your imagination and design freedom. Before
establishing a design criteria, as many individuals are trying to do, 
take time and establish the scope of your intent. IF YOU KNOW what you
want to accomplish the rest is much more easy. Hope the above will help.
If you need any help, pls E mail me direct. Mike
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[RCSE] Ferrite Chokes for long servo leads?

2000-06-14 Thread Erich Merkel

Setting up a plane with long servo leads, want to use ferrite beads on
leads.  What end of the lead (servo or receiver) do I use the the chokes on?
Thanks,
Erich Merkel
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Phone: 360-354-0578
Cell: 360-961-1522
Lynden, WA

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[RCSE] Ed's post :-)

2000-06-14 Thread GordySoar

In a message dated 6/14/00 9:21:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< Not 
 regular columinist.  >>
Hey I take a dump every day!  What does he mean "not regular'?
Good thing he can't get on the RCSE :-)

Gordy
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[RCSE] RCSD

2000-06-14 Thread Thomas Ernst

I first received the RCSD when it was published by Jim Gray.  At that time
there were no photographs, only content.  If you want pretty pictures, look
up the venders web sites. Its value has been in its content and its
unifying activities with the R/C Soaring community.  The digest and the
Slates have done more to integrate our small little niche in the R/C
community than any other organizations or magazines.  The digest is by us
and for us.  Enough said.

Tom Ernst


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Re: [RCSE] hot wire power supply???

2000-06-14 Thread Paul Breed

Do you have an Astroflight Charger?

My 110D will go into test mode if you hold the button down on power up.
Then you can just dial in the precise current you want.
It makes a great safe adjustable how wire supply.

Paul

At 08:25 PM 6/14/00 -0400, you wrote:
>I am building a hot wire set up and need to know which is better:
>
>1.  a variac (3-5amp) connected to an isolated step down transformer 110-24
>volts 10 amp
>or
>2. same isolated transformer with a dimmer switch on the 110 side.
>
>If neither, then what is the best way to do it??  I want plenty of power to
>be able to cut anything from a 20 in to a 75 in bow.
>
>Please include any and all assistance in the construction of the power
>supply that can be offered.  I am looking both for an inexpensive and
>durable setup THAT IS SAFE to operate.  Any comments withh be helpful.
>
>I am also looking for suppliers of the required parts.  Radio Shack does
>have the above transformer but it is ~$55.  The more I save the more I will
>have to spend on foam and new sailplanes etc.
>
>Thanks
>Frank
>
>RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send "subscribe" 
>and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [RCSE] hot wire power supply???

2000-06-14 Thread Robert Massmann

Try this electronic surplus company in Dayton Ohio.  They have a good
selection most everything you need.

 http://www.meci.com/

Hope this helps.
Bob Massmann

- Original Message -
From: "Frank" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "soaring group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 5:25 PM
Subject: [RCSE] hot wire power supply???


> I am building a hot wire set up and need to know which is better:
>
> 1.  a variac (3-5amp) connected to an isolated step down transformer
110-24
> volts 10 amp
> or
> 2. same isolated transformer with a dimmer switch on the 110 side.
>
> If neither, then what is the best way to do it??  I want plenty of power
to
> be able to cut anything from a 20 in to a 75 in bow.
>
> Please include any and all assistance in the construction of the power
> supply that can be offered.  I am looking both for an inexpensive and
> durable setup THAT IS SAFE to operate.  Any comments withh be helpful.
>
> I am also looking for suppliers of the required parts.  Radio Shack does
> have the above transformer but it is ~$55.  The more I save the more I
will
> have to spend on foam and new sailplanes etc.
>
> Thanks
> Frank
>
> RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send "subscribe"
and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>

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Re: [RCSE] Heat Shrink Wrapping for Batteries

2000-06-14 Thread Dave Wenzlick

Clear or colored packing tape works great and it shrinks nicely with a heat gun. It
doesn't get any thinner or cheaper than that! It's what I use for the battery packs in 
my
micro BD's. 

Dave Wenzlick
Mesa AZ
http://www.users.uswest.net/~slickraft/slickraft2.htm
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[RCSE] Aircraft design books???

2000-06-14 Thread Frank

Besides "Aerodynamic design of Radioguided Sailplanes" by E. Gale and "Model
Airplane Aerodynamics" by M Simmons, what other design books are available?

What are their publication dates and ISBN #s??  Where can they be
obtained???

Thanks
Frank

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[RCSE] hot wire power supply???

2000-06-14 Thread Frank

I am building a hot wire set up and need to know which is better:

1.  a variac (3-5amp) connected to an isolated step down transformer 110-24
volts 10 amp
or
2. same isolated transformer with a dimmer switch on the 110 side.

If neither, then what is the best way to do it??  I want plenty of power to
be able to cut anything from a 20 in to a 75 in bow.

Please include any and all assistance in the construction of the power
supply that can be offered.  I am looking both for an inexpensive and
durable setup THAT IS SAFE to operate.  Any comments withh be helpful.

I am also looking for suppliers of the required parts.  Radio Shack does
have the above transformer but it is ~$55.  The more I save the more I will
have to spend on foam and new sailplanes etc.

Thanks
Frank

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Re: [RCSE] Heat Shrink Wrapping for Batteries

2000-06-14 Thread Tom Watson

Go to your local electronics supply store and get some 3M heat shrink tubing
of the appropriate size (I think I used 3/4" on my 110s) and color.  Around
here (SoCal), $6 buys about 4 feet of it.

- Original Message -
From: "Riebesehl, George (NP-IS)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 10:45 AM
Subject: [RCSE] Heat Shrink Wrapping for Batteries


> Looking for some lightweight heat shrink tubing/wrapping for my homemade
HL
> receiver packs.  Electrical tape is heavy & comes undone.


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Re: [RCSE] 8103 Rudd/Elev programming from Sherman Knight

2000-06-14 Thread Len Revelle

One BIG advantage to me when mixing rudder to the aileron stick is the
fact that the rudder stick remains active.

As a right hander ( and an amateur) the first second or so of launch
finds my strong hand transitioning from the throw to the right stick.
A loose toss can be immediately hairy (or most Hobie launches I've
seen) so I prefer having the ability of having the rudder available to
the left thumb initially.
*
  Len Revelle[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  N9IJ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  AMA 60055  http://user.mc.net/~lenrev
*

- Original Message -
From: "Bill Harris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 08:04 AM
Subject: Re: [RCSE] 8103 Rudd/Elev programming from Sherman Knight


> This is an interesting process, but why?
>
> To me, it doesn't seem to matter whether you operate the rudder from
the aileron channel or "redirect" the aileron stick output to the
rudder.  Either way seems as complicated or as simple.  Admittedly,
you may lose some of the programming features using the rudder from
the ail channel, but how much sophisticated mixing is needed for an
RES ship?  At most, I'd see where  you might mix a bit of up-elevator
with the spoilers.
>
> So what am I missing?  With an RES plane, when you think "rudder",
you are really thinking "aileron", from a  functional standpoint,  but
that is not too confusing an issue to complicate the programming.
>
> The one situation where the "redirect the aileron stick output to
the rudder channel" method may be needed is the case where you have a
polyhedral ship with a V-tail.  You would have to redirect the aileron
stick output to the ruddervator, as I don't think the V-tail mix works
any other way except mixing elevator&rudder.   I have a Chrysalis HLG
in this configuration coming up.
>
> Interesting discussion...
>
> --Bill
>
>
> On Tue, 13 Jun 2000 14:15:27 EDT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> There were several questions posted to the exchange concerning two
channel
> programming for the 8103.  All the postings plugged the rudder into
the aiel
> slot on the receiver so flight could be performed from the right
stick.  We
> all used this method with older non mixable radios.  To use this
method on a
> programmable radio actually complicates the learning curve of the
programmer
> and eliminates other dedicated mixes and available programming in
the radio.
>
> I try to set up the programming on all my airplanes so that the
programming
> is as similar as possible from plane to plane.  I'm not talking
about values
> of a mix but using the best mix for the function.  As an example, If
I start
> using the programming method discussed above to put elevator and
rudder on
> the right stick I'm going to have to find another method of
programming when
> I graduate to a plane with two aileron servos.  (ie no ail slot to
plug the
> rudder into, oops)  Learning two different programming languages is
always
> more difficult than one.  Heaven forbid trying to make changes from
one plane
> to another in the field without your template handy.
>
> To simplify your learning curve, use just one programming method for
> everything.  The instruction sheet I published is for the most
complicated
> plane possible.  Use that as your starting point.  Less complicated
planes
> are just a sub set of the more complicated instructions.  What's
this all
> mean?  Try the following:
>
> Plug elevator into elevator and rudder into rudder.  Now dual rates,
end
> points, and various mixes are properly named.  This eliminates a lot
of
> confusion right off the bat.
> Use the dedicated mix Ail to Rud.   This places the rudder on the
right
> stick.  The left stick is still the primary rudder input and remains
active.
> The rudder trim is still on the left.  This is the same condition
that you
> have on a six servo plane.  Once in the mix, hold the aileron stick
all the
> way to one side or the other.  Hit the + or - buttons until the
rudder moves
> in the right direction and the correct amount.  Select "ON" for
switch type.
> If the rudder doesn't move the same amount left and right use the t.
adj
> settings for rudder until they are the same.  Your done.
>
> Now other dedicated rudder functions are available such as extra
rudder in
> launch or landing mode.  Not only that, but this is the same method
you use
> when you graduate to an aileron ship.
>
> You may think the other method is simpler (ie rudder plugged into
Aileron)
> It may be at first but it creates problems down the road.  Now you
have to
> remember that dual rates for rudder is actually aileron.   Same with
end
> points.  Don't touch the differential settings, now your rudder
isn't even.
> It continues on and on.
>
> All ten model memory slots are full on both of my 8103's.  If I used
> different methods of progra

Re: [RCSE] Heat Shrink Wrapping for Batteries

2000-06-14 Thread Robert Massmann

I haven't done this, but would any of the heat shrink coverings like super
monokote do the job.


- Original Message -
From: "Riebesehl, George (NP-IS)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 10:45 AM
Subject: [RCSE] Heat Shrink Wrapping for Batteries


> Looking for some lightweight heat shrink tubing/wrapping for my homemade
HL
> receiver packs.  Electrical tape is heavy & comes undone.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
> George Riebesehl
> RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send "subscribe"
and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>

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Re: [RCSE] 8103 'FreeFlight' mode???

2000-06-14 Thread James V. Bacus

At 10:08 AM 6/14/00, Jeff Winder wrote:
>Anyone know if there is a way to program a switch on the 8103 to 'freeze'
>the current control deflections?

With PCM mode, enable fail hold.  You probably don't put PCM rx'es in a HLG 
though...


Jim
Downers Grove, IL
Member of Chicago SOAR club
ICQ 6997780R/C Soaring Page at http://www.mcs.net/~bacuslab/soaring.html

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Re: [RCSE] Which HLG????

2000-06-14 Thread Bill & Rose Haymaker

My husband and his friend Rick  [EMAIL PROTECTED] make a kit called the
ADVANTAGE. I am pretty sure it has everything you are looking for around
that price. They would be happy to send you some pictures and all the
information.
Sorry they don't have a web sight.

Rose

-Original Message-
From: Frank <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: soaring group <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 6:02 PM
Subject: [RCSE] Which HLG


>My father is looking to get into HLG but hasn't flown for many, many years
>so I would qualify him as a beginner with his current skill.  I would like
>to spend about $100 +/- $50 but would like it to have foam wings and a
>fiberglass fuse.  He had read a review about the bludartar and fell in love
>with it but I think it is beyond his skill and my budget.
>
>What would you suggest?
>
>Thanks in advanced!!!
>Frank
>
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>

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[RCSE] Foam Cutting Questions....

2000-06-14 Thread Paul Breed

There are lots of plans and descriptions on the web for wing cutters.

There does not seem to be much info on basic foam preperation.

1)How do you square up the foam to make wing blanks?

2)Do you cut Dihedral angle before or after cutting the Airfoil?

3)What do you use for template material?

Paul




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[RCSE] EMERALDS

2000-06-14 Thread GordySoar

I just spoke to Skip a day ago and he mentioned that he has some in stock, 
which is unusual.

Red top, black bottom (I think) and the other is White top, Black bottom.

These are the latest 'iterations' with lightened stabs, and rudder, 
'standard' clevis rudder connections and improved minor things.

I believe he said the price will be going up soon so better not wait to order.
The Emerald is a very 'predictable' flying TD ship.  Easy to get used to, its 
airfoil is the 7037 which works light lift well and has good landing 
characteristics.  Not the best at coming home from those way down wind hunts 
without ballast, but all in all, a good choice for contest or fun flying.

The E is pretty durable too.  (Don't forget to add your leading edge anti 
fuse crush post.  You don't have to have it but it helps avoid a crack 
sometimes)

Don't expect a 100 page instruction book with the kit, its not there.
If you have to have one, order a Kestral from Sal a great kit with lots of 
instructions).

Gordy
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Re: [RCSE] Emerald

2000-06-14 Thread GordySoar

In a message dated 6/14/00 2:17:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

<< 
 Is there a web site where I might view pics of and specs on the Emerald?  
Who carries the kit?
 
 Keith >>
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (Skip Miller) is the Emerald man.  It looks like a 
Saphire. 

G
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Re: [RCSE] 8103 Rudd/Elev programming from Sherman Knight

2000-06-14 Thread Bill Harris

This is an interesting process, but why?

To me, it doesn't seem to matter whether you operate the rudder from the aileron 
channel or "redirect" the aileron stick output to the rudder.  Either way seems as 
complicated or as simple.  Admittedly, you may lose some of the programming features 
using the rudder from the ail channel, but how much sophisticated mixing is needed for 
an RES ship?  At most, I'd see where  you might mix a bit of up-elevator with the 
spoilers.

So what am I missing?  With an RES plane, when you think "rudder", you are really 
thinking "aileron", from a  functional standpoint,  but that is not too confusing an 
issue to complicate the programming.

The one situation where the "redirect the aileron stick output to the rudder channel" 
method may be needed is the case where you have a polyhedral ship with a V-tail.  You 
would have to redirect the aileron stick output to the ruddervator, as I don't think 
the V-tail mix works any other way except mixing elevator&rudder.   I have a Chrysalis 
HLG in this configuration coming up.

Interesting discussion...

--Bill


On Tue, 13 Jun 2000 14:15:27 EDT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

There were several questions posted to the exchange concerning two channel 
programming for the 8103.  All the postings plugged the rudder into the aiel 
slot on the receiver so flight could be performed from the right stick.  We 
all used this method with older non mixable radios.  To use this method on a 
programmable radio actually complicates the learning curve of the programmer 
and eliminates other dedicated mixes and available programming in the radio.

I try to set up the programming on all my airplanes so that the programming 
is as similar as possible from plane to plane.  I'm not talking about values 
of a mix but using the best mix for the function.  As an example, If I start 
using the programming method discussed above to put elevator and rudder on 
the right stick I'm going to have to find another method of programming when 
I graduate to a plane with two aileron servos.  (ie no ail slot to plug the 
rudder into, oops)  Learning two different programming languages is always 
more difficult than one.  Heaven forbid trying to make changes from one plane 
to another in the field without your template handy. 

To simplify your learning curve, use just one programming method for 
everything.  The instruction sheet I published is for the most complicated 
plane possible.  Use that as your starting point.  Less complicated planes 
are just a sub set of the more complicated instructions.  What's this all 
mean?  Try the following:

Plug elevator into elevator and rudder into rudder.  Now dual rates, end 
points, and various mixes are properly named.  This eliminates a lot of 
confusion right off the bat.
Use the dedicated mix Ail to Rud.   This places the rudder on the right 
stick.  The left stick is still the primary rudder input and remains active.  
The rudder trim is still on the left.  This is the same condition that you 
have on a six servo plane.  Once in the mix, hold the aileron stick all the 
way to one side or the other.  Hit the + or - buttons until the rudder moves 
in the right direction and the correct amount.  Select "ON" for switch type.  
If the rudder doesn't move the same amount left and right use the t. adj 
settings for rudder until they are the same.  Your done.

Now other dedicated rudder functions are available such as extra rudder in 
launch or landing mode.  Not only that, but this is the same method you use 
when you graduate to an aileron ship.

You may think the other method is simpler (ie rudder plugged into Aileron)  
It may be at first but it creates problems down the road.  Now you have to 
remember that dual rates for rudder is actually aileron.   Same with end 
points.  Don't touch the differential settings, now your rudder isn't even.  
It continues on and on.

All ten model memory slots are full on both of my 8103's.  If I used 
different methods of programming for each model, I would never be able to 
make quick programming changes in the field.  Learn one method, keep it 
simple and programming becomes second nature.

Sherman Knight
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[RCSE] Emerald Rudder

2000-06-14 Thread HYPERCYL

Emerald Pilots:

After many flights the rudder to pushrod connection point has loosened. Looks 
to be a simple bent wire inserted into a wood block just rearward of the 
rudder post. The wire will not come out but there is A LOT of slop. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Todd Brieschke
Dundee, MI
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[RCSE] Re: [SFRC] Re: SFRC V1 #675 READ THIS

2000-06-14 Thread RCsoarnut

Dudes and Dudettes

  About 6 weeks ago I posted a warning to be careful of the JR610 reciever because of 
problems I and my friends were experiencing.  Promptly got kicked in the teeth.

  Horizon seemed very concerned and even sent me a mailing label to return my 
recievers.  I held off for about a week and called and was told that they had plenty 
to test and that no solution had been found as of yet.  Another week and there was 
still no solution.
We are waiting for word from the parent co. on a solution to the problem.  Last week 
much to my surprise I was told that THERE WAS NO PROBLEM, there fore no need for a 
solution, don't bother sending them in.  THIS IS ABSOLUTE CRAP  My recievers have 
been sent back to my distributer for exchange for HiTech 555's which are rock solid.  
I have owned and defended JR products for years and have never experienced anything 
like this.  In the past I have recieved excellent service from the service dept. and 
was shocked and appalled that a statement like that was even made.  I have worked in 
service and sales for 30 years and have only heard crap like that from low level con 
artists.  To hear it from a company that I had absolute faith in was really a 
dissapointment.  As I talk to people in the know I'm starting to find out that isn't 
the only JR product in recent history that will have to "bandaided" up to be 
acceptable.

  Fortunately this episode did not cost me to much, damage to a new handlaunch, 
several rounds lost in an important hlg contest, and several hundred dollars and 6 
weeks of my time.  I'm glad I "DON'T HAVE A PROBLEM" if I did it would have been 
Hellish expensive.

  Come on guys, GET REAL HERE.

Ready for the flames
Denny Maize
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Re: Re: [RCSE] John Roe

2000-06-14 Thread Bill Harris

Hmmm, I have an eMail off asking about buying a "3-R" tape.

Does he answer the phone?

--Bill


On Tue, 13 Jun 2000 23:24:09 -0400 Tom Sheehy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I can tell you that sending him a fax with your credit card number doesn't
seem to work either.

-- Tom



- Original Message -
From: Terry Mickle
To: RCSE
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 10:06 PM
Subject: [RCSE] John Roe


I have sent 10 or so e-mails to John Roe at
[EMAIL PROTECTED] but I haven't gotten a reply. If anyone
knows how to get in touch with him please let me know or tell him to
contact me.

Thanks,
--
Terry Mickle
Newsletter Editor
Southern Oregon Soaring Society
SOSS: www.soaroregon.com
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Re: [RCSE] picojet combat vs 'normal'?

2000-06-14 Thread Tom Broeski

There's a new EPP version and I have complete kits in stock.
Tom

Robert Scott wrote:

> Are you guys just referring to a picojet put together for combat or is there
> a different model of Picojet kit now?
>
> -r
>
> 

T&G
32 Mount View Dr.
Afton, VA  22920
540 943-3356


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