[RCSE] Re: EPP Slope Trainer

[Les or Gypsy Stockley]

Theres the Eraser 48" or 60" from www.flycs.com , they have an agent in the
USA.
Les.


Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 12:59:30 -0800
From: "Norm Timbs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: EPP Slope Trainer
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

RCSE,
So besides the Bowman Super Scooter, what other options are there for a
conventional (non flying wing), EPP, slope, aileron trainer?
Thanks,
Norm
PBSS

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[RCSE] Airtronics crystal trade

[Arthur]

I need an airtronics rx ch 44 crystal, will 
 trade one you need, or cash.
Arthur. 

[RCSE] timeless setup question???

[Arthur]

Got an electric Timeless. Looks like and old free 
flight model. Has a speed 480 dirict drive. It is weak on power. Anybody know 
the right power set up, prop combo? I know I can go brushless, but I bought the 
plane cheap, don't want to go broke on the power setup. Help?
Arthur. 

[RCSE] SVSS December 4th Toy Fly

[Bruce Moore]

When: Saturday, December 4th.
Sacramento Valley Soaring Society (www.svss.org) SVSS will hold its 
next Annual 'Toys for Tots'  Toy Fly.

This is a great soaring (flying) "contest"
Come on out and have the best time flying. Bring out all the toys and 
the toys you love to fly.

Entry Fee: bring a toy worth $12.95 or more, unwrapped, and see if you 
can fun fly for one incredible hour.
Rules: in addition to the club rules 1 and 2; the challenge is to Fly 
for one hour with the fewest number of landings.
the complete rules will be (kindof,sortof,maybe) explained at the 
pilots meeting Saturday morning 9:45
When was the last time you were at a contest (event) and were able to 
fly for a whole hour, real flying time.

How about the electric and handlaunch glider guiders. Set up your own 
rules and fly! fly! fly!

If the contest can not be held on Dec 4th, because of the weather, 
I/we will still be out at the field to receive your donations.
The toys will be picked up by the Marines, please come on out with 
your gift.

I'll be flying a very old Paragon as my fun toy to fly of choice. And 
YOU!

Bruce
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Re: [RCSE] Favorite Plane

[Ed Jett]

I just spent a few minutes boring you folks with my "First Sailplane" 
treatise, so now I am going to be much briefer and tell you my favorite 
sailplane. or two, or three.

I suspect this list will change as time goes by, but in current order:
Aquila - I can't seem to leave it at home if I go to the field
BoT (RIP)- Longest flight to date (47 minutes) and I killed it trying to get 
it back down
NSP Dove (RIP) - First plane I ever had that I flew every chance I could. 
Killed it trying to fly with the wrong model selected on the transmitter.

EJ 

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Re: [RCSE] First Plane

[Ed Jett]

Back in the early 90's, maybe 1991 or 1992,  I didn't take notes, :( and not 
knowing any better, my sons and I purchased one of those Cox/Sanwa .049 
powered RE trainers made of white foam and decals.  It flew okay, but could 
not take the stress of learning rights and lefts coming towards us.  Then we 
bought a Duraplane trainer and a Midwest AeroElectric pretty soon after they 
first hit the shelves.  In the course of learning to fly power we broke, 
bent and bruised the Duraplane pretty badly and severely injured the 
AeroElectric.

After we finally got to the point where we could turn the plane the correct 
way most of the time and get it back on the ground in one piece fairly 
consistently, we moved to a Midwest Aerostar .20 and a GP Trainer 20.  About 
the time that we got reasonably proficient flying them around, my sailplane 
longings (from Jetco Thermic 72 and Nordic 72 days) began to bother me and 
we picked up an Ace High MkII kit and flew it awhile.  The build was not too 
good, but it flew good enough to encourage me.  So, I bought a Spectra from 
there.  I still have it, converted to pure sailplane.  We progressed through 
NSP Chuperosa, Dove, and Dynaflyte Skeeter and Airtronics Legend and my 
illness continues to bother me regularly.

So, my first glider/sailplane is a Thermic 72 or an Ace High Mk II.
EJ 

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Re: [RCSE] Plane insurance How they work

[Cal Posthuma]

It is a pair of red diodes.  each has a resistor so it will work on 12 volt
battery.  They go across each solenoid.  IF solenoids are ok they both are
lit when power is on.  If one is stuck closed (bad condition) the its diode
does not light.  Therefore the solenoid needs be replaced.

Any more questions feel free to ask.

Cal Posthuma
President of West Michigan Soaring Society
Michigan Soaring League Secretary
LSF Coordinator for WMSS
AMA LSFV   LSF 2997, 6718,  7740  LSF VV+III
LSF Officer 1992-2000 Former Secretary, Treasurer, and President
AMA Leader Member and Contest Director
AMA District 7
Web Page:  www.ALTELCO.NET/~calplsf/index.html
Web Page Club:  www.rcsoaring.org
Web Page MSL: www.rcsoaring.org/msl
Phone: 616-997-1905   Cell: 616-240-3972

- Original Message -
From: "Ben Diss" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Cal Posthuma" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 9:23 PM
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Plane insurance


> I'd like to understand what it is you're offering.  Is this a kit that
> will make a set of indicator lights?  If so, what does it indicate?  Is
> it green if the solenoid is open, red if closed?
>
> -Ben
>
> Cal Posthuma wrote:
> > I have a number of diodes and resistors to show you if your dual
> > solenoids has one stuck.  If anyone is interested in these, I will make
> > up sets.  They will include diode holders, proper diodes, resistors for
> > 12 volts and lugs.  If interest is shown, I will price out sets plus
> > shipping and handling.
> >
> > Cal Posthuma
> > President of West Michigan Soaring Society
> > Michigan Soaring League Secretary
> > LSF Coordinator for WMSS
> > AMA LSFV   LSF 2997, 6718,  7740  LSF VV+III
> > LSF Officer 1992-2000 Former Secretary, Treasurer, and President
> > AMA Leader Member and Contest Director
> > AMA District 7
> > Web Page:  www.ALTELCO.NET/~calplsf/index.html
> > 
> > Web Page Club:  www.rcsoaring.org 
> > Web Page MSL: www.rcsoaring.org/msl 
> > Phone: 616-997-1905   Cell: 616-240-3972
> RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send "subscribe"
and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]  Please note that
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MIME turned off.
>
>

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Re: [RCSE] Plane insurance

[Ben Diss]

I'd like to understand what it is you're offering.  Is this a kit that 
will make a set of indicator lights?  If so, what does it indicate?  Is 
it green if the solenoid is open, red if closed?

-Ben
Cal Posthuma wrote:
I have a number of diodes and resistors to show you if your dual 
solenoids has one stuck.  If anyone is interested in these, I will make 
up sets.  They will include diode holders, proper diodes, resistors for 
12 volts and lugs.  If interest is shown, I will price out sets plus 
shipping and handling.
 
Cal Posthuma
President of West Michigan Soaring Society
Michigan Soaring League Secretary
LSF Coordinator for WMSS
AMA LSFV   LSF 2997, 6718,  7740  LSF VV+III
LSF Officer 1992-2000 Former Secretary, Treasurer, and President
AMA Leader Member and Contest Director
AMA District 7
Web Page:  www.ALTELCO.NET/~calplsf/index.html 

Web Page Club:  www.rcsoaring.org 
Web Page MSL: www.rcsoaring.org/msl 
Phone: 616-997-1905   Cell: 616-240-3972
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[RCSE] De-Curling Mylars and....

[RegDave]

Thanks for the suggestions. This roll of mylar has been in the box for some  
time (couple of years) and took a hard set. Results so far:

Tape down the  mylar and use a hot air gun - minimal effect

Iron the mylar on the bench  with a bunch of pressure - minimal effect and 
easy to scratch

Reverse  curl - minimal effect by itself

Reverse curl (tight ~ 4" diameter) and  hold with rubber bands. Then soak in 
hot water for several hours - works pretty  good. They'll actually lay down on 
the surface now rather than curl into a  cylinder. One more good soak ought 
to do it. No real problem with scratching  this way either.

Thanks for the many suggestions,

- Dave R


 
Re the other thread on weight/size - there have been a number of articles  in 
RCSD on wing loading, planform selection and scale effect (Re) dating back at 
 least 10 years. Martin Simons covered a lot of this and the Tech Topics 
column  has covered it since Martin retired. Most recently some (incomplete) 
thoughts  were covered on 2 meter design and planform vs wing loading vs 
airfoil  
selection. 
 
Best approach (my opinion) is to work through a polar calculation using  
either X-Foil or UIUC data for the airfoil. Then vary loading, aspect  ratio, 
etc. 
to see the effects. Generally speaking, Re is a factor up to  about 2M. After 
that it isn't critical. What you're really looking at is loading  and 
planform optimization - primarily aspect ratio. Weight and aspect ratio  
(implied 
wing area) trade off in the 2M and up sizes. For a span limited class  (such as 
2M) there will be an optimum aspect ratio (~ 9 for 2M) for the typical  weights 
we build. Build lighter and you've got more wiggle room. Build heavier  and 
you better up the squares (assuming TD performance). Open up the span and  
you've got a lot more design room.
 
If anyone wants the Windows-based polar program (written in VB6), I'll be  
happy to send it on a CD, including the airfoil files, compiled program  and 
source code. Derivation of all the equations and input assumptions is  covered 
in 
the RCSD columns. It's also covered in several other sites by Drs.  Selig and 
Drela and is referenced in the UIUC and Princeton work published by  Herk 
Stokeley.
 
When all is said and done, this will only get you into the ballpark, After  
that, ya gotta go build and fly to see what will really happen. These types of  
calculation will tell you a lot about the speed/efficiency range but they 
can't  tell you much about how it 'feels' in the air.
 
- Dr. Dave
 
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[RCSE] For Sale; electric AVA

[D Hauch]

Hi all,
This plane comes with servos only, is in excellent condition, except small
blem on fuse, just cosmetic and not noticeable.

Can be seen at , www.kennedycomposites.com

Volz Wing-Max servos in tail and HS 85 for spoiler.
Nice installation.

Color, all blue with yellow center section.

Flown very little.

$700.oo plus shipping, (I can ship this REAL cheap thru work.)

Dave Hauch
Mich.

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[RCSE] First Plane

[Jared]

I have been interested in Aviation for quite some time, but I havenât flown 
until comparatively recently.  

My first plane was a Spirit.  It was purchased (as a kit) when I was 13 (1993, 
Iâm currently 24).  I assembled the kit in the woodshop at my parents house 
and covered it as well (all white) Unfortunately I didnât have a job, or any 
source of income so I had no way to put a radio or electronics in it.  So it 
hung from the ceiling of my bedroom for many years.

Until I was a freshman in high school.  I was over at a friends house and I 
noticed he had a remote control planeâit was a Cox something or other, had a 
.049, and a working radio system!  I asked him if he was flying it and he said 
noâso later that day we stripped the gear out of his plane and installed it 
into mine.  He had never really flown beforeâand neither had Iâafter 
reading the manual about 200 times we decided to go out into the front yard and 
give it a tossâI made sure everything was balanced and checked all the 
control surfaces to make sure it was setup to the manufacturerâs specs.  
First toss and it glided about 20â before gently settling on the ground!  
SUCCESS!  We picked it up again and tossed it with a little more 
forceâWHAMâstraight into the ground â  Eventually I repaired it and 
recovered the entire plane (transparent blue)  It never flew againâI had the 
plane until my sophomore year of college, always hanging over my bedâhaunting 
me and reminding me to fly it one dayâwhen I moved from that apartment I left 
it behind and now some one else has (had) it.  

I stayed out of flying for a couple of years (not that I ever REALLY flew) and 
then one day about 2 years ago I was talking to my girlfriend about needing a 
hobbyâthe ominous hanging plane jumped into my head and I though, âTHATâS 
IT!â  Itâs inexpensive (I know better now!) and lots of fun! (still true 
â )

Picked up a Spirit Elite kit (along with a new radio), assembled and covered it 
and had it ready to fly in about 3 weeks.  Took it out to the field and 
launched it off of a weak hi start a couple of times with no help (bad idea!)  
Ended up almost hitting one of the guys that I fly with (sorry Tony) and 
slammed the plane into the ground.  So what took 3 weeks to build and about 
$200 was destroyed in about 30 minutesâafter that incident I was advised to 
get a simulatorâwhich I did, picked up a Spirit Elite ARF, and studied up on 
how to fly.  

Since then I have been flying as much as school and work allow me to.  Tony is 
still my (and others) favorite target at the field â

Jared


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[RCSE] Plane insurance

[Cal Posthuma]

I have a number of diodes and resistors to show you if your dual solenoids 
has one stuck.  If anyone is interested in these, I will make up 
sets.  They will include diode holders, proper diodes, resistors for 12 
volts and lugs.  If interest is shown, I will price out sets plus shipping 
and handling.
 
Cal PosthumaPresident of West Michigan Soaring SocietyMichigan 
Soaring League SecretaryLSF Coordinator for WMSSAMA LSFV   LSF 
2997, 6718,  7740  LSF VV+III LSF Officer 1992-2000 Former 
Secretary, Treasurer, and PresidentAMA Leader Member and Contest 
DirectorAMA District 7Web Page:  www.ALTELCO.NET/~calplsf/index.htmlWeb 
Page Club:  www.rcsoaring.orgWeb 
Page MSL: www.rcsoaring.org/mslPhone: 
616-997-1905   Cell: 616-240-3972

[RCSE] RE: Size & Weight (was favorite topics)

[John Derstine]

I had to truncate my first post because dinner was ready, and I don't
like to miss a meal. I got the term span loading from some old articles
read years ago, I believe it is a quantifiable relationship tied to
aspect ratio. What I think I elude to is that after a certain size, wing
loading ceases to be as significant as perhaps other parameters.
I have had the pleasure and privilege to sit in on conversations with
full scale designers of sailplanes. According to them, adding span is
the easiest way to add performance, and aspect ratio close adjunct. But
certainly it would seem that the higher RN achievable with larger long
winged sailplanes would be of some significance.

I had a 1/3 fox with an eppler 373 that needed to be ballasted to 35
pounds to get it to fly right. (Perform aerobatic routines). Another 1/3
scale fox with a selig 6060, flew much better at 24 pounds and was able
to do the same routines at much lower airspeeds as well as thermal
rather well. With each I first dialed in what I felt was a correct tail
incidence and CG.
So obviously there are several things in play here.
Overall wetted area, mass, span, aspect ratio, and airfoil?

Many large scale ships use the Harald Quabeck series (2.5 to 3.0) due to
their ability to utilize trailing edge camber and reflex. Not that
others can't, just that these are what I often see on larger heavier
ships. They fly faster at normal wing configurations, but can be slowed
efficiently with the use of camber or thermal flaps. These ships all
have "molded" wings (either sheeted Obeche pressed or GFK sandwich)
lending to more accurate airfoils replication.  
JD



Endless Mountain Models
http://www.scalesoaring.com
email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 

> -Original Message-
> From: Bill Swingle [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 7:01 PM
> To: John Derstine; 'James V Bacus'; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Size & Weight (was favorite topics)
> 
> John has broached a good topic. There is some validity here.
> 
> "Span Loading"  No clue if this is an actual phrase but I think I see
what
> your alluding to. I think you mean "Bigger flys better." Which is
> essentially true but with limitations.
> 
> Why? Because RE#'s tend to go up. Speed tends to go up. Extra mass
> smoothes
> flight and tends to be easier to fly (less neurotic). Larger airfoils
are
> also often more carefully constructed.
> 

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[RCSE] Great Vendors

After what has happened lately with one vendor in particular, it is nice to 
relay a great vendor and others who have taken good care of me.  About three 
weeks back, three of us ordered Blasters from Barry Kennedy via persoannal 
check.  The day he recieved the payment, he had our ships packed and the next 
they were on their way to us in STL.  They arrived over the Thanks giving week 
in a sport tube and were in great shape.   Barry had forgotten a couple of 
Vlad's adjustable towhooks and after contact yesterday they were on the way at 
no charge otherwise.  I appreciate Barry's user friendly ways as well as guys 
like Johnny Berlin, Tom Copp, Dieter, John Derstine, Skip Miller, Don Richmond, 
Phil Barnes, the Horizon Hobby guys, and there are others I should list but 
have forgot.  Support these folks and their products in any way you can!

Marc
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[RCSE] Okay got it figured out! 8103 and electric F5J set up

[GordySoar]

Motor goes into Aux 2.
 
Go to Mix 3 
Aux 2 to Elevator
You will enter the amount after you have your model up and flying, this is 
to add some down elevator compenstation IF you need it while climbing with the 
motor...should really shim the motor to get the right thrust angle instead). 

Move the cursor down to Switch and chose BTFY1 (that is the top left switch 
and its position pushed away from you...as in GO!
 
All you have done at this point is assign the BTFY  switch position 1 
to work some down elevator with the motor on and no elevator compensation when 
the motor is off and the switch is in the BTFY 0 position (stands for Butterfly 
not that it matters).
 
Next we need to get AUX 2 programmed work the motor when the BTFY switch is 
in the 1 position..and that it will work the motors speed controller so far 
enough off that the controller will initialize, and far enough up so that you 
get full throttle.  This is for LMR competiton setting, it does not give 
you variable/proportional motor control..off or on.
 
Go to Mix 6 and chose Aux2 to Aux2...yep mixed to itself!
Cursor down to the mix percentage. You notice that the cursor is only on 
one of the number choices.  You need to make one fully + and the other 
fully -.  How?  
 
Go up to the Aux2 or Flap knob on the top left of the radio.  Turn it 
fully to the left and then fully to the left.  The cursor will move from 
one of the amounts to the other.  Move the knob to one amount and plus 
it all the way, then move it down and minus it all the way.  
Cursor down to the Switch position and chose BTFY1
Move the cursor to the OFFSET position and with the knob on top all the way 
counter clockwize, hit CLEAR (I think) or one of the +/- buttons, (I forgot 
already :-).
 
Make sure your Prop is off of the motor.
Next plug the motor into the Aux 2 spot, (the knob should live totally 
counter clockwize from that day on as it will work the motor some).  
Move the BTFY switch to the 0 position or toward you.  Your motor 
controller will likely beep to let you know it initialized.
After it does, move the switch to the 1 position or away from you, and it 
should start.
If you find you don't seem to have full throttle, turn it off then go to 
the Travel Adjust menu, put the cursor on the AUX2 position, turn the motor on 
and increase the amount fully.
 
That should do it.
However if when you move the switch to the BTFY 1 position, you find that 
your car begins to beep, likely you will have to offer a live chicken sacrifice 
to the gods of Japanese Radio Corporation.
 
Mix 3 is to get some down elevator to correct for a lazy motor alignment 
installation
Mix 6 is to get the motor to turn off or on using the BTFY1 switch.
The Spoiler/Throttle stick has NOTHING to do with the motor, nothing. 
It is only for actuating your landing flap and its elevator compensation.
 
This isn't 'hard', so don't be telling me it's easier with some other 
radio. Its part of the fun.
Got it?
Gordy

Re: [RCSE] counter rotating prop ?

[Bill Swingle]

You're correct. You need an opposite pitch prop. I forget what this is
called, possibly a pusher prop? They do exist but are somewhat rare. You may
need to abandon the counter rotation idea if you can't find one.

I don't know how helpful the counter rotation actually will be. The Twin
Star doesn't seem affected by not doing it. Even my addition of gear boxes,
larger props and an extra cell didn't evidence a problem.

Bill Swingle

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[RCSE] counter rotating prop ?

[David Nasatir]

I have enjoyed sloping my EPP P-38 and now want to electrify it by 
adding two speed 400 motors.
By reversing the wiring on one of the motors the motors  now  rotate in 
opposite directions.
It is not at all clear to me what kind of prop to put on the motor that 
is rotating clockwise (when viewed from the front). Simply putting a 
regular prop on backwards does not seem to provide thrust in the proper 
direction.

Suggestions appreciated.
Dave in Berkeley, CA
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[RCSE] Size & Weight (was favorite topics)

[Bill Swingle]

John has broached a good topic. There is some validity here.

"Span Loading"  No clue if this is an actual phrase but I think I see what
your alluding to. I think you mean "Bigger flys better." Which is
essentially true but with limitations.

Why? Because RE#'s tend to go up. Speed tends to go up. Extra mass smoothes
flight and tends to be easier to fly (less neurotic). Larger airfoils are
also often more carefully constructed.

"Bigger flys better" led my buddies and I to build first an 8ft flying wing,
then a 12ft flying wing and then a 16ft flying wing. I even got an RCSD
article out of the 16 footer.

My over simplified conclusion is that all planes will fly best at a certain
weight. Many times that weight will be more than is often thought. But it's
open to personal taste, thus it's difficult to quantify.

Bill Swingle
Janesville, CA



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Re: [RCSE] First Sailplane

[DANIEL FINK]

Wander 72.  Built and bought 4.  Crashed them all.  Finally 
got smart enough to join Harbour Soaring in 1979.  20 minute thermal 1st 
weekend out.  Downhill since.
 
Dan Fink

[RCSE] Gordy Colors

[Mironpop01]

Gordy pls get in touch. Need the choice of color for your Pike Superior wings    Mike

[RCSE] First Plane

[Tom H. Nagel]

 About ten years ago my 
wife knoew I was interested in RC planes, but had never tried it.  So she 
got me a .40 size RC trainer for Christmas, some sort of Goldberg 
kit.   No engine, no radio, no monokote--just a box of balsa.  

    I never really wanted to fly gas 
power, so I took the kit back to the hobby shop and swapped it for the only 
glider they had in stock, a Goldberg Sophisticated Lady, and used the money left 
over toward some Monokote.
 
    The SL was what I learned to 
build and fly with.   That may explain some things about my building 
and flying.   The plane acquired its own name, too:   The 
Crunchbird.
 
    (Crunchbird, my ass!   
---for those of you who remember that joke.)
 
    After I met Chuck Anderson at 
the NATS early on, I added winglets.    After I met a winch, I 
started added shear webs to the wing structure.
 
    I still have it, and have been 
using the 2M wings, complete with winglets, on my Miss 2 fuselage for long, 
gawky thermal flights.

[RCSE] Fuses

[Mironpop01]

If you need a fuse like the Esteem or Grand Esteem 3 meter span for an electric project of your own,  CF and kevlar reinforced, CF canopy, super strong  pls let me know. We can provide any quantity. Mike

RE: [RCSE] my favorite topics

[John Derstine]

A public forum, open to
opinion. Just voiced mine, it was
a joke… well half a joke.

I am actually a very poor pilot, I just
will myself to fly well. I can’t afford to crash my ships.

 

It is obvious folks enjoy talking about
themselves and their models.

 

Ok What I am interested in opening up for discussion,
now that you took the bait…

 

Many consider lighter models to be
universally superior to heavier models, using wing loading to determine overall
“goodness”. What I have learned through experience is that as
models get larger, and wing loadings go up they often fly (thermal, groove,
penetrate)much better than  some
lightly loaded ships. Now for example, take a 4.5 meter 15 pound Sperber semi
scale sailplane with a 20 cell motor system on board. This plane flies like it
weighs 10 pounds. My suspicion is that span loading might be a more realistic
measure of a planes performance than raw wing loading data. I would also hazard
a guess that reynolds
numbers might be more pertinent in larger size sailplanes. (more meaningful)

Any science minded folks wish to comment?

 

JD

 



Endless Mountain Models

http://www.scalesoaring.com

email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



 



-Original Message-
From: James V Bacus
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2004
9:16 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [RCSE] my favorite
topics

 

At 05:31 AM 11/30/2004, John Derstine wrote:




Is it that such topics generate great interest because they
are low risk (flaming)? Require no thought? or just perhaps everything worth
being discussed has been covered?


For me it brings back memories, and I learn a little bit more about the RCSE
members when this thread goes around.  I thought there was some cool
stories written, I just enjoyed Buddy Roos Hobie Hawk story over coffee this
morning.

On the other hand, I have no idea how you ended up flying those top end scale
ships so well... 





I want information, intelligent discussion, brilliantly
elucidated topics of interest. 


It's your list too, start a thread, make it so...





 

Jim
Downers Grove, IL
Member of the Chicago SOAR club,  AMA 592537    LSF 7560
Level IV
ICQ: 6997780   AIM: InventorJim   R/C Soaring blog at www.jimbacus.net

[RCSE] Scale

[Mironpop01]

Looking for a new or used scale sailplane 6 meter and up molded or bagged obechee other than DG 600 , 800,  Nimbus or any EMS. . Dealers invited. Pls reply direct.    Mike

Re: [RCSE] First RC sailplane

[Erica and or Rob]

Hey now,
O.k. I'm a bit strange... Back in the seventies I was mostly
flying ukies and had just learned r/c on a "Das little stick" I wanted to
try sloping, but knew little to nothing about it. I didn't like the res
kits that I saw so I modified a Midwest ukie kit, a P-63 profile warbird.
I put a lot of lead in the nose, hooked up the contra flaps as ailerons,
and made the rudder work. It wasn't fast (fat airfoil, ukie stunter.), and
it wasn't that stable, but it did fly and I had loads of fun flying it.
Sometimes I think I'd like to try it again...
RobII

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
  Erica Frank  &  Rob CarterII
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
"Everybody understands Mickey mouse.
Few understand Herman Hesse.
Hardly anyone understands Albert Einstein.
And nobody understands Emperor Norten"
-Malaclypse the younger-

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[RCSE] EPP Slope Trainer

[Norm Timbs]

RCSE,
So besides the Bowman Super Scooter, what other options are there for a
conventional (non flying wing), EPP, slope, aileron trainer?
Thanks,
Norm
PBSS

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Re: [RCSE] First Sailplanesoaring@airage.com

[Len Revelle]

First sailplane was a Hobie Hawk with a Kraft KPC. I was in WY over 
my head and destroyed the wings on my first hi-start attempt. I did get 
to fly it for two short flights after it  was launched by an experienced 
pilot.

Favorite plane thus far, the Sagitta 900 I planted at Mid-South a few 
years ago.

--
 Len Revelle
Amateur Radio N9IJ * AMA 60055
"My career goal is to retire"
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Re: [RCSE] RX Help: need opinions/expertise

[Simon Van Leeuwen]

Are the HITEC's digital?

1)
Sometimes nearby noise sources (flourescent lighting, electric fans, 
appliances, etc) generate enough EMI/RFI to cause this. RX swamping (AGC can 
not compensate enough) by a TX that is too close can also do this (it may show 
up in one servo, or all, or one of a different brand, etc).
2)
Depends on the above, if you move the TX away in a quiet environment, do the 
jitters go away?
3)
Too tough to call based on the info, unless you have an identical unit to test 
back-to-back...
 

Quoting Scobie Puchtler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:

> (Note: The FMA M5 receiver has been rock solid for Liftworx with hundreds
> sold to happy customers, virtually no problems whatsoever, so this is
> extremely rare, but it's a weird one, so I'm asking for help)
>  
> A customer's M5 receiver is being powered with a 4cell AAA Nimh pack. When
> Hitec servos are plugged in they chatter nonstop. This was tried with micro
> and standard servos from Hitec, same problem with both. When Maxx Products
> MX-30's are plugged in there is no problem with chatter. 
>  
> I've personally used the M5 with  various servo brands and had no problem
>  
>  
> Three questions:
> 1)Any clue what's happening here?
> 2)Any potential fixes?
> 3)Should we consider this receiver defective?
>  
>  
> Lift,
> Scobie at Liftworx
> www.liftworx.com  
>  
>  
> 
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> turned off.
> 


Radius Systems
Cogito Ergo Zoom

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Re: [RCSE] Most fun plane

[Ed Jett]

This one is hard to beat.  Sooo true!
EJ
- Original Message - 
From: "D Hauch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, November 27, 2004 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Most fun plane


Mine is anything just getting dropped off by the big brown truck,
no wait, those usually have a hole thru the box.
It's the one buy the the white truck with green & purple lettering,
no wait, those are usually crushed.
Well, my favorite is the one just arrived in one piece, I don't care
what it is, the fun is just beginning!  :-)
Dave Hauch
Mich.
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[RCSE] 4 sale 705 X

[mark browning]

new in box tragi 705x with ballast, yellow over red
$1500.00 us
thanks
Mark Browning
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[RCSE] RX Help: need opinions/expertise

[Scobie Puchtler]

(Note: The FMA M5 receiver has been rock solid for Liftworx with hundreds
sold to happy customers, virtually no problems whatsoever, so this is
extremely rare, but it's a weird one, so I'm asking for help)
 
A customer's M5 receiver is being powered with a 4cell AAA Nimh pack. When
Hitec servos are plugged in they chatter nonstop. This was tried with micro
and standard servos from Hitec, same problem with both. When Maxx Products
MX-30's are plugged in there is no problem with chatter. 
 
I've personally used the M5 with  various servo brands and had no problem
 
 
Three questions:
1)Any clue what's happening here?
2)Any potential fixes?
3)Should we consider this receiver defective?
 
 
Lift,
Scobie at Liftworx
www.liftworx.com  
 
 

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[RCSE] Fw: NEW THREAD. . .YEAR'S ACCOMPLISHMENTS?

[Harley Michaelis]

 
- Original Message - 
From: Harley Michaelis 
To: John Derstine ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 11:02 AM
Subject: NEW THREAD. . .YEAR'S ACCOMPLISHMENTS?

John and others. . .I don't mean for you to list 
your accomplishments here but wonder, compared to what you do, if I get a 
little or a lot done. 
 
Keep in mind that I'm well over 80 and getting stiffer 
in every way. . . except where it counts, that is.
 
I think I get little done and spend too much 
time picking stuff up off the floor or making feeble attempts to 
clean up and reorganize my workshop.
 
Nevertheless, in the last year, I got a few things 
done, including these: 
 
Designed the Genie LT/S and am finishing up #5. 
.  .totally built from scratch except for those fine cores cut by Les 
Horvath. 
 
Carved plugs for the forthcoming big Genie 
and LT/S composite fuses. 
 
With the help of friend Winston Okerlund, who designed 
the wing, designed and engineered the Icon-sized Genie Pro and found 
someone to produce it as an ARF. 
 
Did all content preparation for the Genie web pages at 
http://genie.rchmomepage.com/ and 
regularly updated it. (Jay Decker maintains the pages). 
 
Put out a slug of Genie CD's and gave e-mail help to 
dozens of guys who did, or say they're building a Genie, 
etc.
 
Learned to install servos using Mark Drela's neat 
cantilever mounting method. 
 
Learned (Les's suggestion) to lay up bi-directional CF 
to make laminate for I-Beam spars for bagged wings. Built a couple of wings with 
it. 
 
Learned more uses for Icing Putty for fine 
finishing, including as spar caps and especially preparing LE's to take a 
smooth, glossy painted finish. 
 
Learned (latest thing) to make open-ended, CF 
laminate reinforced epoxy pockets at the end of ailerons for RDS operation. 

 
Got this stuff into the Genie 
pages.
 
Managed to avoid upkeep or yard work around my 
place.
 
Managed to keep a lady friend of over 20 years from 
banishing me to the corn patch.
 
In any event, how do you guys do over a year's time? 

 
Don't drive friend John nuts by listing what you've 
done, but I'd like to hear from you.
 
Of course I'm retired and have escaped working for 
about 20 years.  

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  John Derstine 
  
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 3:31 
  AM
  Subject: [RCSE] my favorite topics
  
  
  Oh my God. Its here again, the 
  time of year that everyone on this exchange is brain dead and actually finds 
  it interesting to discuss what plane they had first, or their favorite 
  plane.
   
  JD.
   

Re: [RCSE] Mylars?

[Simon Van Leeuwen]

In order for the material to relax from a process that created the curl in the 
first place, one needs to elevate the material's temperature. 

If you need to use it immediately, reverse-roll the material, then run or let 
stand in hot water for a few minutes, then open the roll to the widest diameter 
while still immersed, it will relax (a slower process is the cycling 
temperature in a hot bathroom after showers).
 
Radius Systems
Cogito Ergo Zoom

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RE: [RCSE] Mylars?

[jared]

An iron works great!  Put it on a low setting...about 50% power or so...I put
them in between a t-shirt, so that I don't scratch them.  Apply a LOT of
pressure when ironing them, and make sure that you keep the iron moving.  If
you don't you can add other waves that you will need to get out.

I've been using an iron for the past couple of months and haven't had any issues
with it...  You can pickup t-shirt material by the yard at wal-mart or where
ever.  If you can't find it then drop by the bedding area and pickup some
jersey knit sheets to do the job :)  it's easier if you work in small sections
or just work with the cutout mylar rather than trying to flatten the entire
roll.  You need to be able to work the entire piece at the same time, otherwise
you'll get warps b/c of the heating differrences.

Jared

Quoting Phil Barnes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:

>
>
> >-Original Message-
> >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >does anyone have a trick for  taking
> >the curl out of mylars before you first use them?
>
> I recently answered this in an email so here is that response;
>
> I always immediately take the roll of mylar out of the box, stand it on end
> and then expand the roll to about a one foot diameter and then just let it
> stand on the floor that way.
>
> I think the problem may happen when the mylar is rolled tightly and then
> left in a box in a hot truck or warehouse somewhere before you get it. If
> you are unfortunate enough to get a batch of mylar like that then you will
> have to try and uncurl it. The following is a summary of recent messages in
> the SALglider group (message numbers 7262,7262,7264,7267)
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SALglider/messages
>
>
> 1) I've heard from someone but can't recall who. You could flatten them
> out by ironing them on a flat bench. You need a tissue between, not
> to scratch the surface. I haven't tried it myself so no garantee.
>
> 2) I used a heat gun to gently warm them. They flatten out fine.
> Tom
>
> 3) I had some luck putting 16"x 48" curled mylars in a large basin like a
> bath tub and pouring boiling water to cover them.
>
> I never found a good way to uncurl mylar myself but those three suggestions
> come from other guys who have.
>
> If you don't/can't uncurl the mylar then you will have to live with the
> curly mylar or buy some new mylar. There are ways of dealing with curly
> mylar.
>
> The curl causes problems when you do layups. To avoid that problem you can
> stick the mylar down to the bench with 3M77. The curly mylar is also hard to
> paint since it won't stay put in a spray booth. You can fix that problem by
> taping spruce sticks to the back of the mylar to hold them flat while you
> spray them. Other than that there really isn't any trouble from curly
> mylars.
>
>
> Phil
>
>
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Re: [RCSE] MT Trashmore

[Peter Jensen]

On Tue, Nov 30, 2004 at 10:47:37AM -0600, Brian Smith wrote:
> Can any one give me some info about Mount Trashmore in Florida...Where is
> it, and who flys there? Thanks..Brian Smith

  Perhaps you're referring to the Pompano Hill Flyers?  I met some at
a recent contest and found them to be a delightful bunch; do take care
to contact them before planning to fly because there are some
restrictions on use of the hill.

  This is probably what they want their website to be:

http://www.phflyers.com/

  but it's configured to redirect you to this URL, which appears is
on a slow DSL line:

http://65.6.189.224/phflyers/

-Peter

-- 
Peter Jensen  ... http://www.diff.net/peter ... [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [RCSE] Mylars?

[Phil Barnes]

>-Original Message-
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>does anyone have a trick for  taking
>the curl out of mylars before you first use them?

I recently answered this in an email so here is that response;

I always immediately take the roll of mylar out of the box, stand it on end
and then expand the roll to about a one foot diameter and then just let it
stand on the floor that way.

I think the problem may happen when the mylar is rolled tightly and then
left in a box in a hot truck or warehouse somewhere before you get it. If
you are unfortunate enough to get a batch of mylar like that then you will
have to try and uncurl it. The following is a summary of recent messages in
the SALglider group (message numbers 7262,7262,7264,7267)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SALglider/messages


1) I've heard from someone but can't recall who. You could flatten them
out by ironing them on a flat bench. You need a tissue between, not
to scratch the surface. I haven't tried it myself so no garantee.

2) I used a heat gun to gently warm them. They flatten out fine.
Tom

3) I had some luck putting 16"x 48" curled mylars in a large basin like a
bath tub and pouring boiling water to cover them.

I never found a good way to uncurl mylar myself but those three suggestions
come from other guys who have.

If you don't/can't uncurl the mylar then you will have to live with the
curly mylar or buy some new mylar. There are ways of dealing with curly
mylar.

The curl causes problems when you do layups. To avoid that problem you can
stick the mylar down to the bench with 3M77. The curly mylar is also hard to
paint since it won't stay put in a spray booth. You can fix that problem by
taping spruce sticks to the back of the mylar to hold them flat while you
spray them. Other than that there really isn't any trouble from curly
mylars.


Phil


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RE: [RCSE] MT Trashmore

[Mark Wales]

Brian,
Not sure about Mt Trashmore in Florida, but there is one in Virginia Beach 
that I flew off of years ago while visiting family there.  Its between I-264 
and Princes ann If remember right.

Mark
Soaring Is Life!!


From: "Brian Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [RCSE] MT Trashmore
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 10:46:08 -0600
Can any one give me some info about Mount Trashmore in Florida...Where is
it, and who flys there? Thanks..Brian Smith
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Re: [RCSE] Mylars?

[Harley Michaelis]

I picked up some 1/4" square steel and cut it in 1' lengths. Laid at the 
ends of a carrier with cloth applied, it will stay flat while applying 
epoxy. Take the steel pieces off to catch where they laid.
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 7:49 AM
Subject: [RCSE] Mylars?


This isn't exactly a drop-dead topic but does anyone have a trick for 
taking
the curl out of mylars before you first use them? It settles down after a
couple of cycles but that first layup is a bit of a fight. Tied them down 
and
used a heat gun this AM and it helps but

TIA,
- Dave R
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Re: [RCSE] my favorite topics

[Simon Van Leeuwen]

The fact that so many have responded proves a worthy topic. It's refreshing to 
read people's experiences during the birth of their tenure with model 
sailplanes. Funny how it puts everyone in the same boat, which is rare on this 
particular exchange... 

Quoting John Derstine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:

> Oh my God. Its here again, the time of year that everyone on this
> exchange is brain dead and actually finds it interesting to discuss what
> plane they had first, or their favorite plane.
> Is it that such topics generate great interest because they are low risk
> (flaming)? Require no thought? or just perhaps everything worth being
> discussed has been covered?
> I want information, intelligent discussion, brilliantly elucidated
> topics of interest. 
>  
> Where's Gordy when he is needed?  
>  
> JD.
>  
> 


Radius Systems
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[RCSE] Re: First Sailplane

[fly1milehi]

My very first sailplane was this really awful flying, dihedral only,
model that was just rudder and elevator. I scratch built it when I was
about 13 or 14 and I think it was called a "Sawaddee".. I got the plans
FREE in one of the European magazines. It looked much like a Windrifter
so I figured I was safe to build it and get at least a nice
airplane sometimes you really do get what you pay for!! 

Fortunately I was building and flying power as well and new that planes
in general could fly better than this one so I trashed it and built an
Aquila!!
the rest is history so to speak
Greg


-- 
fly1milehi

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RE: [RCSE] Looks like JT Plane Pack Bags are back in the game

[jprouty]

Hi All,

We're making the new Plane Packs 66" long to be able to make a "one bag
fits all" product.  It will be available for two piece or three piece
wings (the three piece will cost a little extra).  I'm currently working
on our website and will have pictures and prices online within a week or
two.  Please let me know if you have any questions in the mean time and
thanks for the bandwidth.

Happy flying,

Jim

[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.jtmodels.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2004 10:36 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Looks like JT Plane Pack Bags are back in the game


In a message dated 11/29/2004 7:08:31 PM Central Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Perfect bags for Pikes, Icons, Extremes, any of the current 3piece wing
ships.  Not sure about Sharon's big center panel. Over all length is 60"
I think.
Sharon center panel is the best part of 65 inches, just about the same
as the length of the Icon fuse...

WW


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[RCSE] Re: Inexpensive Hotliner?

[MDM]

Nike 2 or I have a sprinter NIB with motor/bec and 8cell pack Ill sell
:) Sprinter is a one piece wing...

MDM


-- 
MDM

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[RCSE] First RC sailplane

[Kurt W. Zimmerman]

OK guys... why hasn't anyone ever mentioned J&J Industries American Eagle
designed by Dick Sarpolus (I think)... I'll never forget saving up my
birthday & X-Mas money and running out to the hobby shop to by this.  I took
my sweet time to build it but once I got flying, WOW what a great time I
had.  I do believe the American Eagle was featured in a early to mid-1970's
Flying Models mag... I'd love to know what issue.  My original one I wore
out the pages

I'm kicking myself now that I sold that plan at an auction for probably no
more than about $25.


Kurt



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[RCSE] MT Trashmore

[Brian Smith]

Can any one give me some info about Mount Trashmore in Florida...Where is
it, and who flys there? Thanks..Brian Smith


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[RCSE] Mylars?

[RegDave]

This isn't exactly a drop-dead topic but does anyone have a trick for  taking 
the curl out of mylars before you first use them? It settles down after a  
couple of cycles but that first layup is a bit of a fight. Tied them down and  
used a heat gun this AM and it helps but
 
TIA, 
- Dave R
 
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Re: [RCSE] my favorite topics

[James V. Bacus]

At 05:31 AM 11/30/2004, John Derstine wrote:
Is it
that such topics generate great interest because they are low risk
(flaming)? Require no thought? or just perhaps everything worth being
discussed has been covered?

For me it brings back memories, and I learn a little bit more about the
RCSE members when this thread goes around.  I thought there was some
cool stories written, I just enjoyed Buddy Roos Hobie Hawk story over
coffee this morning.
On the other hand, I have no idea how you ended up flying those top end
scale ships so well... 

I want
information, intelligent discussion, brilliantly elucidated topics of
interest. 

It's your list too, start a thread, make it so...

 

Jim
Downers Grove, IL
Member of the Chicago SOAR club,  AMA 592537    LSF
7560 Level IV
ICQ: 6997780   AIM: InventorJim   R/C Soaring blog at
www.jimbacus.net

Re: [RCSE] First Sailplane

[Dlflem]

>considering my line of 
work<
Hi Dana
What's you line of work?
Maurice>
 
Sorry,
probably should have mentioned.
I serve a United Methodist Church as pastor.
D.
 
 

[RCSE] Jan 1, 2005 - National Postal Fun Fly Contest. 2nd Annual event! 2004 winner was Larry Jolly.

[Ray Hayes]

Welcome Australia,  guess we have to rename the event International Postal
.

Any other country want to join in, I'm sure we can figure out what group you
will be flying with.



Ray,
>
> Would you consider entries from the state of New South Wales, Australia
(it
> touches the Pacific Ocean too, so Region A looks the best fit). The
weather
> here right now is probably not too different to HI.
>
> Fred

Ray Hayes
http://www.skybench.com
Home of Wood Crafters


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Re: [RCSE] Re: [balsasailplanes] Jan 1, 2005 - National Postal Fun Fly Contest. 2nd Annual event! 2004 winner was Larry Jolly.

[Ray Hayes]

I wish you many hours of sunshine and great thermal flying way up there in
Utah,
welcome to the fun game Clarence.  Also Welcome to Ed Jett of MS and Jeff
Gortatowsky of CA.


Ray Hayes
http://www.skybench.com
Home of Wood Crafters
- Original Message - 
From: "Clarence Ashcraft" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2004 10:18 PM
Subject: [RCSE] Re: [balsasailplanes] Jan 1, 2005 - National Postal Fun Fly
Contest. 2nd Annual event! 2004 winner was Larry Jolly.


AS THE NEW PRESIDENT OF THE INTERMOUNTAIN SILENT FLYERS (IN THE COLD GREY
STATE OF UTAH) AS A CLUB THERE WILL BE A WOODY CONTEST ON JAN 1 2005..SO RAY
SIGN-UP CLUB IMSF AND LET'S HAVE SOME FUN


Clarence Ashcraft
Transmitter Impound 98,00,02,04
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Home of Soar Utah 2004
http://www.silentflyer.org/
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ray Hayes
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Monday, November 29, 2004 4:43 PM
  Subject: [balsasailplanes] Jan 1, 2005 - National Postal Fun Fly Contest.
2nd Annual event! 2004 winner was Larry Jolly.


  Let's do it again.a National Postal fly in on New Years day for fun.

  Woody's only with Built up wood flying surfaces, no molded d-tubes,
  no restriction on spar construction, with or without a fiberglass fuse.
  No restrictions on the use of thermal sensors or wind meters.


  Two classes:
  100" and under and 100" and over, no limit on number of controls.


  Tasks:  Thermal duration.

  Longest Flight:
  Any number of attempts, may fly the same plane in both classes.
  No landing points requirement.

  Three Minute Ladder:
  Each consecutive flight must be greater than the previous flight by 3
  minutes.
  If consecutive flight is less than three minutes, simply try again.
  No landing points requirements.

  Launch by Hi Start or  winch.

  Scoring:
  Report your longest flight and highest step in the time ladder
  for each size class you participated in by email to Ray Hayes.
  You may be asked for the name and phone # of your timer.

  Winners will receive respect and applause from the rest of us.
  Send a photo and forever be immortalized.
  The rest of us should send a photo also.

  To make it more interesting, the country will be divided up into
  weather regions with winners in each region as describe above
  plus and overall winners in each size class and task.

  Regions:

  Region A.
  All the states touching the Pacific Ocean plus HI, AZ, NM, TX,
  MS, AL, GA, FL, SC, except Alaska.

  Region B.
  OK, MO, AK, TN, KY, NC.

  Region C  (cold, gray and windy)
  All the remaining states.

  I'm willing to keep track of the scores, so let's get out there this
  New Years day and have some fun with our woodys.
  Get a group together and turn it into a soaring party.

  To sign up, send an email to me by Friday, 8 pm your local time,
  December 31st, 2004. with the following info:  your name, city and
  state where flights will take place (does not have to be city you reside
  in).

  To register your scores, email them with photos if possible
  no later than Jan. 2, 2005 to me.   [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Nothing but fun with our woodys...

  Ray Hayes
  http://www.skybench.com
  Home of Wood Crafters



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[RCSE] my favorite topics

[John Derstine]

Oh my God. Its here again, the time of year that everyone on
this exchange is brain dead and actually finds it interesting to discuss what
plane they had first, or their favorite plane.

Is it that such topics generate great interest because they
are low risk (flaming)? Require no thought? or just
perhaps everything worth being discussed has been covered?

I want information, intelligent discussion, brilliantly
elucidated topics of interest. 

 

Where’s Gordy when he is
needed?  

 

JD.