Re: [RCSE] Using cheap hair spray

2004-12-13 Thread Keith Smith
I've been using cheap hair spray for years. I especially like using it on 
all my paper pattern. It's best to do this after your patterns have been 
pasted down to your pattern material. The spraying of the patterns should be 
done before cutting your patterns. The spray really helps protects your 
patterns long after they have been pasted up. One another thing, be sure to 
write all your notes on your patterns before spraying them. I suggest using 
two to  three very light coats of spray making sure each coat has thoroughly 
dried before applying the following coat, and then lightly kiss your 
patterns with 600 sand paper.  This will assure you'll have great patterns 
than will last!

Krs
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2004 7:34 AM
Subject: [RCSE] Re: Question for Modelers Familiar w/Shellac


Jim -
I haven't used shellac to do this, but I have achieved some pretty light 
finishes.

I use hair spray for the initial coats. Get the cheapest large aerosal 
cans you can find. Fog a few sparse coats on, sanding very lightly with 
400 grit between coats. You only need to knock down the stickups. If you 
keep the initial coats light and let them dry well you won't hurt a foam 
wing, and the weight buildup will be minimal.

After you get the wood sealed with hairspray go ahead with the waterborn 
poly. I like to wipe it on with an old t shirt or a foam brush, keeping 
the coats thin and many.

happy trails - Roob Glover

As a woodworker I haven=B9t used but read about shellac as the 
sealer/under
coat for wood finishes.  Shellac is accepted as a good barrier against 
wate=
r
vapor, but not liquid water, and any finish will stick to it well.  So I
thought it might be a very good under or only coat for balsa tail parts on
HLG=B9s etc.  Don Stackhouse of DJ Aerotech describes the use of water 
born
(not a solvent in this case) polyurethane and that care must be taken to 
ge=
t
a very thin first & later coats.  One reason for that would be the fact 
tha=
t
wood so readily absorbs water then changing it=B9s dimensions due to 
swelling
of the wood fibers.  Don's main goal seems to be to limit weight added
though.

Have any of you tried shellac, which uses alcohol as its solvent?  I am
wondering if a 3 pound cut, for example, would penetrate less than a 1 
poun=
d
cut.  [Shellac is mixed as x pounds of flakes to 1 gallon of alcohol. 
N.B.
you must use de-waxed shellac if you intend to over coat it with any other
finish.]
--=20
Jim Holliman -- Tulsa, Oklahoma

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Re: [RCSE] Digital Scales

2003-12-03 Thread Keith Smith




I have used many scales while working in test 
laboratories. My all around preference is the old standard Ohaus 2610 g Triple 
Balance Beam Scale. They're extremely accurate, and with a inexpensive set of 
calibration weight set, you can easily maintain your scale accuracy with no 
problems. I am able to mix as little resin as 10 grams of material, and yet stay 
within the tolerances of my epoxy mixing ratios. Generally speaking, 
 your inexpensive digital scales can easily be off by several percentages. 
That may not be a major concern when mixing resins that require 20 % by weight 
on an ounce or more of material, but mixing smaller amounts of material, 
especially materials that require a harden at 7 % by weight, that's when 
you begin to run into difficulties. 
 
The majority of the modelers seldom calibrate their 
scales, and for the most part you may not experience any noticeable 
problems if you don't calibrate your scale. However, if you are really 
concerned about having the exact mixing ratios, and want to insure you have the 
optimum strength, you may want to consider investing in a scale that will give 
you the proper accuracies! You can buy a good used triple beam scale for as 
little as $ 15.00, or near new for about $ 35.00. I have a habit of checking my 
scale calibration nearly once before using it. I've made three standard 
weights. My weights range form 10, 30. and 50 grams. If you're really 
serious about your calibration, you can buy an inexpensive calibration weight 
sets for about $12.00 I use my three normal standard weights regularly, 
 because that's my normal mixing range. All  triple beam scale 
are quick and easy to make tare any adjustments. Every time you place 
any mixing cup on your scale,  you automatically see the tare weight 
zero out. I also suggest spraying a very light mist of WD-40 on your plate, 
 this helps prevent from epoxy build-ups, but be careful, not to over 
spray with the WD-40. Heavy spraying of WD-40  could affect your scale 
calibration. It's also best to periodically wipe your scale down with 
good old reliable isopropyl rubbing alcohol, or even Windex window cleaner. 
 I suggest Checking out E-bay. They always have triple beam scales for 
scale. When you buying any scale iy's best to clean it, light lube it as 
required, and always double calibrate the first usage of any scale, whether 
it's new or a used scale before ever using it! 
 
I hope all that read this, found some useful information.
 
Keith
 
 
 


[RCSE] Who going to model this Sailplane The LARGEST IN THE WORLD

2001-12-06 Thread Keith Smith

Tony Elliott, did mention last month while he was attending the Visalia
scale event that he modeling the Eta, but he didn't give a completion date.
I wonder why he was a little reluctant to project a completion date? He
plans to return to Visalia this coming March to with his SB-10.

KRS

- Original Message -
From: "Albert Wedworth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Tony Elliott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 9:03 AM
Subject: [RCSE] Who going to model this Sailplane The LARGEST IN THE WORLD


> Hi Guys
> Check this out.
> I need one!
> http://www.eta-aircraft.de/en/news/
>  Looks like a job for Tony Elliott, ya think?
> Cheers.
> AL
>
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