RE: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info
Dope based?? could be silk-span.Find yourself a container of dope thinners to start. You will find that any dope-based finish be it silk-span, tissue or silk can be stripped quite easily. The previous post works for the most part. You should be able to soften any stubborn areas with the dope thinners. Good luck Kurt From: Craig Allen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 10:50 AM To: soaring@airage.com Subject: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info It's hard to tell what type of covering it is... It's over 40 years old so it can't be any type of iron on, Its not silk, but does apear to be dope based Craig
RE: [RCSE] Removing old covering
Craig; You haven't specified what type of covering it is. If it is Monokote I've been through this procedure many times before. 1) I start off by stripping off as much of the covering by hand. 2) Using a #11 exacto I pick as much as I can being careful not to gouge the wood underneath. 3) Any stubborn areas I simply sand off with 100 grit dry. Kurt From: Craig Allen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 10:02 AM To: soaring@airage.com Subject: [RCSE] Removing old covering I have some 40 year old covering to remove. Any suggestions on how? Craig
[RCSE] removing old covering..... Update
Turns out there's no shortcut to old fashioned elbow grease... I sanded the rudder and stab using various pieces of wood that I glued sandpaper to and a big flat sheet that I glued to my work bench. They look fantastic now in transparent white Ultracote. Now onto the wings They pose a bit of a problem because they have under-camber. But I plan on gluing sandpaper to a rather larger cardboard drum used to pour concreat footings... Then throwing my two cats and a mouse inside to power it.. Should work hu :-)) Hope to have her converted to Electric and flying for my dad by next weekend.. Oh ya... The plane is my dads 1965 Lou Proctor Antic... Only thing that might hold me up is all the dam rigging... Craig
Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info
What worked for me was a combination of sanding/buffing discs on a Dremel tool. Friction did cause some monokote color to meld into the surface of the wood, but I was using opaque for the refinish, so it didn't matter in my case. Instead of caustic chems, I have a theory: consider a heavy glove and a chunk of dry ice from the local ice cream shop or megamart. Try rubbing the chunk of dry ice on the edges of the covering. In theory, it should cause the mylar and glue to contract, embrittle, and crack off, the wood should shrug it off, and the glue joints will likely hold if not directly touched. Mark S. ** It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv000547)
Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info
Bill Swingle wrote: Hold on there! Carcinogenic, mutanogenic, poisonous! So, should I be worrying about the times (as a kid) that I used acetone as a hand cleaner to remove things like grease and fiberglass resin? Concerned modelers want to know. Well this one at least. Sheiiish, here we go. I was not referring to acetone. I was pointing at the chlorinated hydrocarbons (methylene chloride or chloroform) and nitromethane. These can be bad actors. Simply because you've used a lot of stuff in the past that we now know is evil and you are still alive doesn't mean it's safe. As chair of the department safety committee I've learned to be anal about certain things. If you smoke tobacco forget everything I've mentioned above, it's already too late. If you don't smoke, have used all those evil chemicals and are still alive, don't think you're getting off free. Do you still have all your hair? Do you hit every one of your landings? Can you sleep 12 hours without having to get up to pee? If you can't answer YES to each of those questions, all those chemicals are getting to you! So There!!! ;-) Cheers, Bill RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info
That's the least of my problems... Didn't you clean old quarters with mercury? used Acetone, Naphtha, jet fuel, and anything else we could find to clean our hands... and the worst of all... Film cleaner (triclorethane 1,1,1) in a ultrasonic tank. Our old house would probably be put on the Superfund list if they ever tested it :-))) - Original Message From: Bill Swingle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Bill Johns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Craig Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; soaring@airage.com Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 3:41:23 PM Subject: Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info Hold on there! Carcinogenic, mutanogenic, poisonous! So, should I be worrying about the times (as a kid) that I used acetone as a hand cleaner to remove things like grease and fiberglass resin? Concerned modelers want to know. Well this one at least. Bill Swingle Janesville, CA RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info
Hold on there! Carcinogenic, mutanogenic, poisonous! So, should I be worrying about the times (as a kid) that I used acetone as a hand cleaner to remove things like grease and fiberglass resin? Concerned modelers want to know. Well this one at least. Bill Swingle Janesville, CA RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Craig, If it is dope based, then acetone will work fine. However, any color in the dope will probably remain in the wood or seep into the wood. I might try nail polish remover, as it has some MEK, which like acetone, works but is less volatile and may contain some nitromethane. You might try methylene chloride or chloroform. This is a list of some rather nasty chemicals, i.e. carcinogenic, mutanogenic, or simply poisonous. Please to be careful, wear gloves (not latex) and lots and lots of ventilation. Bill Johns Colton, WA RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info
At 09:49 AM 8/18/2008, you wrote: It's hard to tell what type of covering it is... It's over 40 years old so it can't be any type of iron on, Its not silk, but does apear to be dope based Craig Skyloft was a popular covering material from the late 60s. Skyloft was a nylon mat material that looked a lot like silkspan but was much stronger. It was applied with dope just like silkspan. I used it to cover several RC pattern models between 1969 and 1974 and even covered a free flight wing with skyloft. If you crashed a built up model covered with skyloft, you never needed a trash bag for the parts after a crash. The skyloft served quite well to contain the parts. :) Chuck RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
RE: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info
Craig, If it is dope based, then acetone will work fine. However, any color in the dope will probably remain in the wood or seep into the wood. I might try nail polish remover, as it has some MEK, which like acetone, works but is less volatile and may contain some nitromethane. You might try methylene chloride or chloroform. I do not thin isopropyl alcohol will work, but perhaps some mineral spirits. Do remember that if there is any foam, then all this stuff is useless. I have a Friend who works alot with nitrate dope and tissue who I will try to contact for more info. He is a free flighter from 40 years ago! Chris > Original Message > Subject: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info > From: Craig Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: Mon, August 18, 2008 7:49 am > To: "soaring@airage.com" > It's hard to tell what type of covering it is... It's over 40 years old so it > can't be any type of iron on, Its not silk, but does apear to be > dope based > Craig RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Removing old covering, more info
It's hard to tell what type of covering it is... It's over 40 years old so it can't be any type of iron on, Its not silk, but does apear to be dope based Craig
RE: [RCSE] Removing old covering
I guess it depends on the covering. what kind is it? how was it adhered to the model? My first thought is heat gun, but only if its a monokote type covering. Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 07:02:24 -0700From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [RCSE] Removing old coveringTo: soaring@airage.com I have some 40 year old covering to remove. Any suggestions on how?Craig _ Get thousands of games on your PC, your mobile phone, and the web with Windows®. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588800/direct/01/
[RCSE] Removing old covering
I have some 40 year old covering to remove. Any suggestions on how? Craig
[RCSE] REMOVING OLD COVERING
From M&M <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello, I have an old Windfree that came to earth awhile back as a meteor and I am having difficulty removing a bunch of the old covering off of the wing. Is there a trick to getting it all off easily? Picking and scraping with an exacto knife is taking forever... Thanks, MM What's the trick to removing old covering!!?? Michael!! It is so simple--never mind it took me a while to discover it for myself :-) !! Now don't feel too foolish!! BUT!! IF you are removing old covering, I ASSUME (dangerous) you are also planning to recover--is my assumption warranted :-) !!?? IF not ignore the following :-) !! IF so!! Take your covering iron and iron it off--heat and pull :-) !! You may end up with some of the film color on the airframe, but small penalty; it should peel off nicely for you! I use to rebuild crashed birds of friends being on a low budget--those were power days; BUT my present project is a rebuild of the classic Hobie Hawk ala'gracias-Bacus (last Christmas) and formerly a Gordy Bird--it shall soar again!! Also, have a 3M nostalgia hangar queen rebuild of a Japanese Hasegawa 3200 mm Reiher. The above process will also allow you to save decals, etc, with some ease if desired :-) ! NOW! Put away the Xacto knife, get out the iron and with an ole'one-two remove and recover and get flying--to the FUN part!! Paul Clark, SKY PILOT ONE, Osaka, Japan(AMA # 53 777 1) http://www.kcat.zaq.ne.jp/skypilot/ SKY PILOT'S HANGAR--RCHLG AFICIONADO RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]