Re: [RCSE] Transfers?

[Arne Ansper]

Hi!
Martin Kopplow has developed really nice technique. He prints directly on 
kevlar. Check out his tailfeathers on the link below (you must join the 
SALglider group in Yahoo to see them).

Arne
-- Forwarded message --
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 21:25:07 +0200
From: martin kopplow <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [SALglider] Printing on Kevlar with an inkjet pinter
Ok, I've uploaded two pictures to the SALglider photo section at

Printing on fabric has advantages over printing on tissue when the size of 
the print is relatively large or even covers the whole part. It saves 
weight. It does not add a layer to the layup, forming no stress raisers at 
it's edges. It also makes the building process a bit easier if used 
appropriately. For a small print, such as a logo, I'd go the tissue way, 
though.

First Picture ("Layout, print and result"): You can see a finished vert. 
full flying stab and a printed sheet of Kevlar or glass in front of the 
computer with the original layout on screen.

Second picture ("Bagging printed glass on balsa") You can see my 
vacbagging setup for a set of glassed balsa tailfeathers with cambered 
airfoil. The material under the part is somewhat flexible to allow the 
bagged part to sink in a little.

Procedure: I first make the layout using my computer. This has the artwork 
in it plus all the marks for positioning and trimming. Leave a little 
space around the parts and at the edges of the print area. Then I roll out 
as much Kevlar or glass as needed on my cutting bench, stroke/blow away 
all wrinkles. I spray a sheet of usual 80g/m^2 copy paper (the size my 
printer takes, in my case it is A4) very thin with 3M repositionable photo 
mount and let dry a minute or so. I then put the paper buttered side down 
on the fabric at 45°, stroke it on. I trim the fabric exactly to the size 
of the sheet by either using a roller cutter and steel ruler (glass) or 
the Kevlar scissors.

After preparing as many sheets as required, I go to my printer, put one in 
the paper feeder at a time and print on them in draft/economy mode. This 
ensures there is no excess ink soaking the fabric and blurring the image. 
Image resolution is limited to less than 30dpi or so by the distance 
between threads in the cloth, so there's no use in printing high 
resolution anyway. The first time I tried, I used a strip of tape to 
secure the sheet's LE when feeding into the printer, but that proved to be 
unnecessary, at least with my printer. It is - however - not recommended 
to try this with 90° cloth orientation: Threads (almost) parallel to the 
paper's edges will most probably get lose and tangle up the printer 
tractor. Cut the fabric somewhat smaller when 90° is required, so there's 
plain paper at the edges.

After printing, it is a good idea to let the ink dry a few minutes, then I 
stick tape (non elastic, but sticky) on the fabric all around the edges 
and press on tightly. The tape overlaps at the corners, that's important. 
If I print more than one part on a sheet, I also put a tape in between the 
parts. Now I cut the parts apart (fabric still on the paper) right in the 
middle of the tape.

I prepare my bagging rig, resin and tools, and only now I peel off the 
paper. Grab the paper with one hand, the tape with the other and slowly 
pull apart. Because of every cloth part being framed by the tape, it will 
not get irreversibly distorted during the process, even if this may look 
like it at first glance. I leave the tape on and put the fabric on the 
bench and blow on them: Just like magic, they will return to their 
original shape, use no fingers, just take a deep breath and blow on top of 
it. Then I wet it with epoxy and roll it dry, with the tape still on. Now 
I put the lower side fabric on a piece of overhead film (print looks 
mirrored now), put the core on top (can see exactly where, because of the 
printed reference marks) with the tape still on and place a piece of 
wetted out carbon roving around the edges of the core (thin one at TE). 
Now I put the top skin cut on another overhead film, put it on the core, 
adjust referring to the printed marks, put a sheet of prepared plastic 
film over everything, seal around the edges with acrylic and switch on the 
vac rig at max. It's getting noisy now in the shop, so I rather get into 
the kitchen and have a beer.

After cured, I trim off excess fabric and the tape, sand the edges and so 
on. The result is in photo #1.

Now I'm looking for a large format printer, that will feed Kevlar right 
off the roll :-) or at least allow printing the size of a wing panel. I 
could make nice wing paintjobs that way, or I could even print on the 
outmost layer of my Kevlar fuselages. I could take a digital photo and 
pri

FW: [RCSE] Transfers?

[Aradhana Singh Khalsa]

Tape a flat piece of tissue paper (like you use for wrapping a gift) onto
some inkjet cardstock, set the printer driver to adjust for cardstock, and
print normally. The ink doesn't run at all. YMMV depending on your printer
and ink.

The tissue goes onto the mylar first, oriented to face outwards.

See a picture of a layup in this post on RCGroups.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2334949&postcount=8

Aradhana Singh Khalsa



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2004 4:04 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [RCSE] Transfers?


Does anyone have ideas for transferring art work  out of an ink jet printer
onto mylars for bagging wings, etc.? Seems like this  should be do-able by
some
transfer method but no luck so far. Kind of a pain to  cut out a mask for
spray painting. There must be an easier way.

- Dave R

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Re: [RCSE] Transfers?

[brian]

I've used a similar technique to the one linked below,
except you can actually put the graphic directly on the
mylar instead of closest to the core on the layup.
Simply wet out the spot on the mylar that the illustration
is going to be and place it on the mylar.  Then proceed
with your layup as normal.
Here's a link to one of my results on a SGII wing:
http://www.nonsilence.com/soaring/pics/sg2logoonwing.jpg
Jon Stone wrote:
here's one fellow's article on the topic.
http://www.rc-soar.com/tech/graphics.htm
- Original Message -
 > Does anyone have ideas for transferring art work  out of an ink jet
printer
 > onto mylars for bagging wings, etc.? Seems like this  should be 
do-able by
some
 > transfer method but no luck so far. Kind of a pain to  cut out a mask 
for
 > spray painting. There must be an easier way.

RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]  Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.

Re: [RCSE] Transfers?

[Jon Stone]

Title: Re: [RCSE] Transfers?






here's one fellow's article on the topic.


http://www.rc-soar.com/tech/graphics.htm



- Original Message - 

> Does anyone have ideas for transferring art work  out of an ink jet

printer

> onto mylars for bagging wings, etc.? Seems like this  should be do-able by

some

> transfer method but no luck so far. Kind of a pain to  cut out a mask for

> spray painting. There must be an easier way.

[RCSE] Transfers?

[RegDave]

Does anyone have ideas for transferring art work  out of an ink jet printer 
onto mylars for bagging wings, etc.? Seems like this  should be do-able by some 
transfer method but no luck so far. Kind of a pain to  cut out a mask for 
spray painting. There must be an easier way.

- Dave R  

RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send "subscribe" and 
"unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]  Please note that subscribe and 
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