DJ Delorie wrote:
>> However if I turn of the silk screen completely (which I would prefer) I
>> can not drag/move components.
>>
>> Is this normal behavior ?
>>
>
> Yes. What I'd do is set the minimum silk to 0.1, and reduce the sizes
> of the text so that it *does* fit on your board. Then
DJ Delorie wrote:
>> A lot of switching power supplies have a low-current mode where they
>> don't switch at the full rate.
>>
>
> It's switching at 150KHz (it's normal rate), about 25% duty cycle.
>
> I tried adding a 68 ohm resistor on the 3.3v bus, no change.
>
>
> _
> A lot of switching power supplies have a low-current mode where they
> don't switch at the full rate.
It's switching at 150KHz (it's normal rate), about 25% duty cycle.
I tried adding a 68 ohm resistor on the 3.3v bus, no change.
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>True. :-( You might be able to temporarily shield that inductor,
> but that's a shot in the dark.
The only thing I can think of is to remove the input diode for the
switcher (to power it down) and feed it 3.3 from an LDO through the
test point, and see if that makes a difference. I do *not*
DJ -
On Thu, Sep 13, 2007 at 12:34:38AM -0400, DJ Delorie wrote:
> It's really hard to tell which part is doing it, just from listening.
> The sound may be a combination of a high pitch whine and a 100hz buzz
> (the oled is 100hz).
>
> I *think* the sound may be coming from the switching power su
> Get an electret mic running off a battery on one scope lead
Circuit? I tried the mic+scope trick, but nothing came out of it, so
I figured it needed some biasing.
> Probe around with other scope lead to see what is in sync with it
> just to make sure you are looking at the right part of the c
On Sep 13, 2007, at 12:55 AM, DJ Delorie wrote:
>>Is it convenient to try putting an choke in series with the OLED's
>> power supply line, with the OLED's bypass capacitor on the OLED side
>> of the choke?
>
> Hmmm... 100uH power inductor, no change.
Crap. :-(
>>I've only used those t
> However if I turn of the silk screen completely (which I would prefer) I
> can not drag/move components.
>
> Is this normal behavior ?
Yes. What I'd do is set the minimum silk to 0.1, and reduce the sizes
of the text so that it *does* fit on your board. Then, when you make
the board, just t
On Sep 13, 2007, at 1:00 AM, andrewm wrote:
>> 1. How do you find out where such a noise is coming from, when
>>everything is so close together? Neither a stethoscope nor a
>> straw
>>were helpful.
>>
>>
> Get an electret mic running off a battery on one scope lead
>
> Probe around with
>Is it convenient to try putting an choke in series with the OLED's
> power supply line, with the OLED's bypass capacitor on the OLED side
> of the choke?
Hmmm... 100uH power inductor, no change.
>I've only used those two methods, aside from probing around with
> an oscilloscope to
DJ Delorie wrote:
> 1. How do you find out where such a noise is coming from, when
>everything is so close together? Neither a stethoscope nor a straw
>were helpful.
>
>
Get an electret mic running off a battery on one scope lead
Probe around with other scope lead to see what is in syn
My brain is getting a bit fried at the moment with new software overload.
I am having an issue with silk screens on PCB.
I can not turn off the silk screen legend (only switch between footprint
refdes and value) and I also can not delete the text on the silk screen.
I am making a board that is
On Sep 13, 2007, at 12:34 AM, DJ Delorie wrote:
> Ok, help me out with this one.
>
> The PCB for my alarm clock buzzes.
>
> It's really hard to tell which part is doing it, just from listening.
>
> The sound may be a combination of a high pitch whine and a 100hz buzz
> (the oled is 100hz).
>
> The
Ok, help me out with this one.
The PCB for my alarm clock buzzes.
It's really hard to tell which part is doing it, just from listening.
The sound may be a combination of a high pitch whine and a 100hz buzz
(the oled is 100hz).
The buzzing is related to what's displayed on the OLED; the +12v to
20070912
This release represents nearly 200 commits and as such this summary
clearly is not complete. See the ChangeLog file for the complete list
of changes.
- Many many bug fixes. Too many to list.
- Added keystone, C&a
Tools,
I use a car battery hygrometer for measuring density. The car battery
hygrometers do not cover the full range of acceptable densities for
etching but does cover the optimum.
For acid measurements I do periodically titrate using the method given
by Adam in his page. Most of the time I
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John Griessen wrote:
> Hmm "recommend optimum specific gravity to be between 1.240 to 1.330"
>
> I wonder if the wine gravity gauge I have has that range
AFAIK the density of ethanol is below 1g/cm^3 :)
I'd prefer a hydrometer as used when m
>> Daniel Sandström wrote:
>
>>> http://members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html
>> The first one only contains B&W pictures, so the second one is much
>> better, as color matters :)
from etching_CuCl/index.html:
the solution effectively just grows as it consumes four ingre
Here are some photos of H2O2/CuCl2/HCl in action at 105 degF:
http://shop.cottagematic.com/elab/etch-midway-5mins.jpg
http://shop.cottagematic.com/elab/etch-done.jpg
http://shop.cottagematic.com/elab/etch-tank-depleted-sm.jpg
John G
> Daniel Sandström wrote:
>> http://members.optusnet.com.au/~
Christoph Lechner wrote:
> So you simply mix a HCl/H2O2 etchant the usual way. When you begin to
> use the etchant, it's bluish.
No. Yellow-green for full etching strength.
After some time (and some PCBs) it becomes
> green. Dark green, and when loaded with copper, black.
So when it's green
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Daniel Sandström wrote:
>> Do you have any links about CuCl?
>>
>
> This looks very interesting, so I did a bit of googling and these links
> seems to deal with most aspects:
>
> http://www.xertech.net/Tech/CuCl_ech.html
> http://members.optusnet.com
>
> Do you have any links about CuCl?
>
This looks very interesting, so I did a bit of googling and these links
seems to deal with most aspects:
http://www.xertech.net/Tech/CuCl_ech.html
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html
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andrewm wrote:
> If you let the HCl H2O2 just keep going to emerald green you will get
> CuCl etchant. You never again need
> to add H2O2 and can regenrate it by bubbling air through it.
That CuCl story sounds very interesting. To be quite curious (a
andrewm wrote:
> John Griessen wrote:
>> I'm liking the transparency and low hassle and low toxicity of HCl/H2O2,
> I have been using CuCl for a bit over a year now and all I ever need to
> do is measure the acid levels and
> density and then top up with HCl or water to keep it in spec.
>
> Wil
> There are also LM78Lxx that comes in TO92 (most popular), TO39, SO8, SOT89
> ... , each with different pinning!
>
thanks for the tip - I actually needed a small package version of the
5volt version but didn't locate one!
gene
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geda-user mai
> On Tue, 2007-09-11 at 13:59 -0400, Ales Hvezda wrote:
> > >
> > > If someone thinks the attached symbol is ok, I'm pushing it to the repo.
> > >
> >
> > How do you know that this pinout is correct? What other packages does
> > an lm7912 come in other than TO-220? There isn't a footprint=
> > a
If someone are about to fix these regulators in the distro, perhaps it
vas an idea to drop the net=GND:2 for the 78xx & 79xx.
Reason: One are free to put the gnd pin on top of a couple of 1N4148's
to raise the output voltage.
tir, 11 09 2007 kl. 07:21 +0200, skrev Bert Timmerman:
> T 1600 1100
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