Tom, I am planning on selling these shafts. The fact that the tip
section is a full inch shorter then what I find on True Temper's
website is what's concerning me. The shafts do fit properly into
tapered hosel heads, nice and snug, and there is no evidence that
someone tipped these shafts, just p
You're not talking about tip trimming are you? If they're taper tips there is
no trip trimming. It's possible I suppose that somebody drilled or reamed out
the hosel of a TT head and tipped the shaft, or . . . stuck them in a parallel
head and shimmed them. I have a set of component copy Ping G
:37 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Question for RK!
Tom,
But the only thing wrong with one of those is that you also lose HP to your
motor. Like if you were using a .75 HP motor and you installed one of those
you would lose more then 1/2 of your available HP, like 1/2 of .75 HP
spamnetsig/?
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Rchard w kennedy
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 11:37 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Question for RK!
Tom,
But the only thing wrong with one of those is that you also lose HP to your
motor
hich give you a
lots more torque,no more HP but around twice the torque.
Something to think about
RK
- Original Message -
From: "Tom Barnett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2004 2:49 PM
Subject: RE: ShopTalk: Question for RK!
ECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004
5:35 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Question
for RK!
In a message dated 10/22/04 6:04:45
PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Wish I could rig my press so it
would run at around 200
Sorry Doug but it is a tapered shaft.
RK
- Original Message -
From: "comgolf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 4:49 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Question for RK!
I have a titleist DCI 6 iron with broken shaft, is this head
part number on
it or the box. Lata me look tomorrow and get back to you this weekend.
woops, execues my spelling misakes.
RK
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Question fo
In a message dated 10/22/04 6:04:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Wish I could rig my press so it would run at around 200, any suggestions
Increase the diameter of the pulley that drives the chuck. You might have a clearence problem but you can cut away part of the metal sh
OTECTED]On Behalf Of
comgolfSent: Friday, October 22, 2004 4:49 PMTo:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Question for
RK!
I have a titleist DCI 6 iron with broken shaft, is this head
reamable to .370. I'm getting tired of buying tapered shafts all the
time...
Richard:
Thanks to you and Dadugally for the helpful information! Since I could not run my drill any slower than 320 and was pressed for time I cut slits in the shaft (a TTlite) and went with that. Drove a round wedge in the tip after it was installed with the eboxy to make sure of a tight fit.
Wi
bject: Re: ShopTalk: Question for
RK!
In a message dated 10/21/2004 1:26:33 PM
Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
RK:Having problem reaming a ping BuCe Copper Iron! Wanted to
ream out taper hosel to Par.Tip and started working up with reamer but went
from .350 to .37
In a message dated 10/22/04 12:46:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Cutting fluid not only needs to be removed to get a good bond with the epoxy but a lot of it has a reaction with the bc and turns it black
Very true! If the Be/Cu heads turn black or if you wish to clean or
Harold, our running your drill press way to fast for BuCe, PLus use plenty
of cutting oil or some sort of cutting fulid.If the speed is too fast it
will cause the reamer to bind up, i recommmend around no higher then 200 RPM
for BuCe, if you are still having a problem just ship it down here
In a message dated 10/21/2004 1:26:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
RK:
Having problem reaming a ping BuCe Copper Iron! Wanted to ream out taper hosel to Par.Tip and started working up with reamer but went from .350 to .370 and it started grapping the sides and almost stoppi
Did'nt forget it, just lost it! P---ed me off too.HStill
-- Original message -- Blank page received. Does this mean you forgot the question?I have business cards so I can remember my name!
Seems like I Lost the message I so carefully typed!
RK
What is procedure for Reaming a Ping CuBe copper head? any different than Stainless steel?.
Harold Still
-- Original message --
Blank page received. Does this mean you forgot the question?
I have business cards so I can remember my name!
Hi Ralph - Sounder made a small splash around 1979-1980 with a line
of woods and irons that "all swing the same". Their sales pitch was
to have a wall mounted display board that you could clamp any two
clubs from the set in, swing them like a pendulum, and the frequency
of their arcs would be
At 05:22 PM 7/27/03 -0400, you wrote:
If there is enough epoxy in the bore it will not allow the shaft to twist
during the swing, like if you have a shaft that has a 2.5* torque but you
fill up the shaft with epoxy to just less than the hosel bore you in
essences are turning that shaft into a .5
At 02:03 PM 7/27/03 -0400, Al Taylor wrote:
Does my theory of hitting the ball high and towards the heel, ie. at or
very near the hosel, hold any water?
Toward the heel certainly makes sense. I'm not sure high makes it that much
worse -- except for the no-hosel Callways, where you might actually
Geez RK;
If you have something to say, why not just go ahead
and say it straight out rather than couching it in gentle phrases?
;-)
TFlan
ys better, Ford went, or came back, the following year with a standard old castiron crankshaft and all for cars lasted through the whole race.A couple of them actually won.RK
A small piece of trivia, do you know why they named the cars "GT40" .... The cars were just 40&quo
THANK YOU ARNIE THANK YOU
RK
---Original Message---
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sunday, July 27, 2003 4:34:24 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Question re: Epoxy in Shaft (Was: Epoxy for LDC Pro's)
Simple answer to this problem is filling the shaf
Simple answer to this problem is filling the shaft tip with epoxy during assembly will
cause shaft tip breakage when the ball is struck toward the heel or sometimes toward
the toe or if the sole is struck on the ground before striking the ball. DON'T FILL
THE SHAFT TIP WITH EXCESS EPOXY WHEN ASS
At 11:49 AM 7/27/03 -0400, you wrote:
At 11:43 PM 7/26/03 -0700, Alan Brooks wrote:
In principle, I agree with Dave T. A plug of epoxy on the inside of the
shaft will cause a stress concentration. That said, however, I find it
unlikely that effect is significant. The modulus of elasticity of t
Dave,
Does my theory of hitting the ball high and towards the heel, ie. at or
very near the hosel, hold any water?
Al
At 11:49 AM 7/27/2003, you wrote:
At 11:43 PM 7/26/03 -0700, Alan Brooks wrote:
In principle, I agree with Dave T. A plug of epoxy on the inside of the
shaft will cause a stres
At 11:43 PM 7/26/03 -0700, Alan Brooks wrote:
In principle, I agree with Dave T. A plug of epoxy on the inside of the
shaft will cause a stress concentration. That said, however, I find it
unlikely that effect is significant. The modulus of elasticity of the
epoxy is so much lower than that o
In principle, I agree with Dave T. A plug of epoxy on the inside of the
shaft will cause a stress concentration. That said, however, I find it
unlikely that effect is significant. The modulus of elasticity of the
epoxy is so much lower than that of the steel hosel and the graphite
reinforced
At 11:34 AM 7/25/03 -0700, Ron Stare - Willoughby wrote:
As RK notes, "Just about any clubmaker will tell you to keep the shaft
bore clear of any or all epoxy." I am curious from this discussion thread
on building LD clubs what effect the epoxy getting into the shaft bore has
on shafts breaking?
Timing is everything . That means clubhead speed means nothing to selecting shaft stiffness.
llhack
- Original Message -
From:
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 5/29/2003 1:46:25 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Question
Rich:
I am assuming that your swing speed indicates a stiff flex?
My
It depends on which one is the closest to fitting your swing timing.
llhack
- Original Message -
From:
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 5/28/2003 6:58:51 PM
Subject: ShopTalk: Question
What could you expect the distance loss would be between a "stiff" flex shaft installation and a "
ROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Question
> Now that's almost what I would call a loaded question. Maybe 10 yards. On
the
> other side of that coin, I hit my S300 irons about 10 yards longer than I
do
> with a
In a message dated 5/29/2003 8:17:42 AM Hawaiian Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Rich:
I am assuming that your swing speed indicates a stiff flex?
Actually I should be playing a R flex according to most sources. I have demo clubs that I keep coming back to for testing. Dynamic Golds, D
Rich:
I am assuming that your swing speed indicates a stiff flex?
My potential customer has swing speeds that call for a "R" flex. But he has heard that a stiffer flexed club would give him more accuracy. True as this is, I could not give him an estimate as to how much distance he could expect
Now that's almost what I would call a loaded question. Maybe 10 yards. On the
other side of that coin, I hit my S300 irons about 10 yards longer than I do
with a demo iron, same head, on a R300 shaft. Go figure that one. Timing is
everything.
Rich "Mac" McHattie
Mac's Golf
Get some Gorilla Glue. Terrific stuff.
TFlan
- Original Message -
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2003 7:37
AM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Question
Thank You for all the
replies. I the warning bell was saying something
Thank You for all the replies. I the warning bell was saying something about the glue needing elasticity and that the epoxy would not have this.
As for my memory, I too, did wood head and wooden shaft work in the past. I replaced a few hickory shafts and assembled quite a few wooden headed clubs
At 07:02 AM 3/8/03 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have to reglue some wooden dining room chairs. The stabilizer rungs have
become unglued. I was planning on utilizing my trustee club assembly
epoxy for the task. But, last night a warning bell started ringing in my
head. Usually it is a pol
I assume you're talking about a joint that has just loosened, as opposed
to one which has broken. Epoxy will work, but it's overkill. Any decent
white or yellow glue will also do the job.
I've frequently used a product called Chair-Loc for this problem. It is
a milky-white product with very
;s
almost 5:30.
RK
Manufacturer's of World Class Golf Club Repair
Equipment
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
---Original Message---
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Thursday, August
01, 2002 02:45:19 PM
To: '[
//www.urbanlegends.com/ulz/microwave.html>
> <http://members.aol.com/chemeplus/NukingWater.shtml>
> Dan Neubecker
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Richard Kennedy [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 10:44 AM
> To:
u thought of my post. Are you
changing your tune now?
Dan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
-Original Message-From: Richard Kennedy
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002
12:15 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: ShopTalk:
question about installing ferrules (microwave boili
PM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: ShopTalk:
question about installing ferrules (microwave boiling of water is
risky)
Jeez RK/Tflan, I was only offering a simple caution that
might save someonefrom injury, not trying to put down anyone's
t millions of others have boiled H20 in the micro with no untoward
effects.
What the hell ever became of common sense?
TFlan
- Original Message -
From: "Dan Neubecker" < [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >
To: < [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]&
Manufacturer's of World Class Golf Club Repair
Equipment
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
---Original Message---
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wednesday, July
31, 2002 09:27:12 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ShopTalk:
quest
--- Original Message -
> From: "Dan Neubecker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 1:01 PM
> Subject: RE: ShopTalk: question about installing ferrules (microwave boiling
> of water is risky)
>
> > Just in
g the surface
to assure this doesn't happen. Just thought I ought to warn folks that this
can happen.
Dan Neubecker
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> -Original Message-
> From: tflan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 8:27 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
manufacturer?And they all won lawsuits? I and no
> doubt millions of others have boiled H20 in the micro with no untoward
> effects.
>
> What the hell ever became of common sense?
>
> TFlan
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Dan Neubecker" <[EMAIL PRO
>TFlan
>
>- Original Message -
>From: "Dan Neubecker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 1:01 PM
>Subject: RE: ShopTalk: question about installing ferrules (microwave boiling
>of water is risky)
>
>
Been using microwaves since they were put on the market but I have never had this type of problem.
Could the problem be the type of container being used?
Frank
; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 1:01 PM
Subject: RE: ShopTalk: question about installing ferrules (microwave boiling
of water is risky)
> Just in case you have not heard this, it is risky to boil water in a
> microwave. A cup of
Procedure for installing tight ferrules:
I take my handy dandy hand butane torch,
heat the tip of the shaft 360? for 3 seconds,
slide the ferrule on the tip, push the ferrule on flush with the tip,
wait a 5 or 6 seconds for the tip to heat the ferrule,
push the ferrule down further with a 1" T-han
sday, July 31, 2002 2:39 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: ShopTalk: question about installing ferrules
>
>
>I do the same as RK but for 20-30 seconds or so. Remember to dry the tip of
>the shaft and take a Q-Tip to the inside of the hosel to removing any
>moisture.
>John
meone else can.
Dan Neubecker
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 2:39 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: question about installing ferrules
I do the same as RK but for 20-30 seconds
Title: Re: ShopTalk: question about installing
ferrules
I do the same as RK but for 20-30 seconds or so. Remember to dry
the tip of the shaft and take a Q-Tip to the inside of the hosel to
removing any moisture.
John
shoptalk
Ralph, I use boiling water to enlarge,
hey Al T you like that word
ke a champ. I've also used various and
sundry drill bits...
Royce
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of tflan
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 11:27 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: question about installing ferrules
Good advice.
Tom: I found a 3/8" id nylon bushing from Lowe's and cut a slot in it
and just snap in on the shaft and stick the club in my Mitchell shaft
puller and let the fingers push against the nylon bushing and that
pushes the ferrule in place.
Don Johnson
"To move a ferrule toward the tip isn't particu
Good advice. Here's another take: I simply use a heat gun and warm the
ferrule a little. Then I shove the ferrule in place with the clubhead. If
you need a ferrule installation tool, here's what I did. I drilled holes in
a hardwood block - I think it's walnut. One hole for .335" tips, another for
Al--
Really nice little piece. Clear. Useful.
Damn, hope I don't offend anyone, but I am always grateful for good writing,
and careful proofing.
No one wants to be a root-canal grammarian, but careful writing does not come
painlessly.
Connie Mack
Al Taylor wrote:
> Ralph,
> First of all it
Rk,
Yeah I like that word, but you ol goat, at your age, it's the only thing
you have rammed home, in a long time.
Al
At 07:55 AM 7/31/2002, you wrote:
Ralph, I use boiling water to
enlarge, hey Al T you like that word, the
ferrule. I put a cup of
water in the microwave, heat it until it c
Ralph,
First of all it is good that you have a tight fit, as long as it isn't too
tight and the ferrule doesn't split when finally put into place. Make sure
you abrade the tip above the hosel and under the ferrule.
Installing the ferrule is basic and there are several methods that can be
used
Ralph, I use boiling water to enlarge, hey Al T you like that word,
the ferrule. I put a cup
of water in the microwave, heat it until it comes to a boil then place the
shaft tip with the ferrule in place as far as I can get it, for about 1
minute,
th!!! Little consolation for old
>farts like you and me, eh??
>
>TOM W
>
>-Original Message-
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
>On Behalf Of Al Taylor
>Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 11:05 AM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: RE: ShopTalk: question
er persimmon to cut your teeth!!! Little consolation for old
farts like you and me, eh??
TOM W
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
On Behalf Of Al Taylor
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 11:05 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: ShopTalk: question about tape
Just shove them in. You could tap them with a mallet. You could also use
shafting beads or a shim. Or you could punch the tips with a steel punch to
slightly "oval" the tip.
TFlan
- Original Message -
From: "Ralph Harwood" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Shoptalk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Mond
It is good to see that high level muckety mucks still know where the shop
apron is. ;-))
Al
At 08:04 AM 07/08/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>RALPH:
>the whole reason taper tip shafts came about was to create a "swaged" or
>locked assembly with the clubhead back in times when epoxies did not
>exist and
RALPH:
the whole reason taper tip shafts came about was to create a "swaged" or
locked assembly with the clubhead back in times when epoxies did not
exist and glues were not that strong. Epoxies today are incredibly
strong so even if you don't get a tight lock on tapping/hammering the
shaft down
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