In a message dated 3/29/2008 12:16:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> I googled "drill hole saw in acrylic" and got this
> http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-1886.html
>
>
> They suggest drilling halfway through and then flipping the sheet over.
In a message dated 3/29/2008 12:06:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> The following articles might help.
>
> http://www.bertram31.com/proj/tips/drill_acrylic.htm
>
> http://www.sdplastics.com/acrylic.html
>
> http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-04/jg/index.php
>
> A
That's what I said, only in three words.
TFlan
> >Heat the ring.
>
> If you heat the ring, EVERY dimension of the ring
> will increase by
> the same fraction. Yes, the ring becomes fatter, but
> the increase in
> the circumference of the ring more than makes up for
> it. So the ID
> will expa
I googled "drill hole saw in acrylic" and got this
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-1886
.html
They suggest drilling halfway through and then flipping the sheet
over.
If you do your own search you might come up with something
better.
Let us know what finally works. Goo
The following articles might help.
http://www.bertram31.com/proj/tips/drill_acrylic.htm
http://www.sdplastics.com/acrylic.html
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-04/jg/index.php
A
> I have experienced similar problems with material sticking/staying in the
> holes saw. I have changed my procedure and
do not fully cut through the material from one side. I use the other side and
the drill pilot hole to finish the cut.
This prevents clogging/sticking of material inside the
Do you have a small gear/pulley puller? You could
predrill the required size holes in your planned
cutouts to fit the jaws of the puller and then you
would just use it after each cut.
You could probably make one using a scrap piece of the
plexiglass with a tee nut and bolt in the center and
At 01:28 PM 3/29/2008, TOM FLANAGAN wrote:
I recall the experiment in physics class lo these many
years ago. A small steel ball attached to the end of a
rod, and a steel ring attached to a separate rod. The
ball fit through the ring. The question was;" if you
heat the ring, will the ball slip bac
Yes, use a Forstner (spelling) bit!
**Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
Home.
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom000301)
I recall the experiment in physics class lo these many
years ago. A small steel ball attached to the end of a
rod, and a steel ring attached to a separate rod. The
ball fit through the ring. The question was;" if you
heat the ring, will the ball slip back through the
ring? Or, if you heat the ring,
It occurs to that I recently used a sheet of acrylic
to cut out some figures. it wasn't 1/2" though. 1/4"
as I recall. I used a scroll saw and a jig saw with
"plastic" blades because the figures required some
intricate pattern cuts.
That doesn't get your "glued in" bit out of the saw,
but maybe i
That worked.
Thanks
I would still like to find a less time consuming way than to have to heat
each and every time though.
David
In a message dated 3/29/2008 10:03:11 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Heat the outside of the hole saw and pry it out!
**C
Well I just did one real slow, and the same thing, it's nanofused to the
hole saw.
The pilot hole is 1/4" and the arbor hole is 5/8, this thing is such a bear
that now Im thinking maybe some 1/4" threaded rod stock with a 1/2" od nut on
it and using the Python shaft puller on it.
I tried a re
Heat the outside of the hole saw and pry it out!
**Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
Home.
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom000301)
I will if I can ever get the last core out.
David
In a message dated 3/29/2008 8:14:40 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Maybe you could try spraying the hole saw with WD-40 as you cut. Try it on
a scrap piece first to see. Later Kermit.
**Create a Ho
Slow down the RPM of the drill! You are generating too mush friction heat
which is causing the scrap to deform and fuse itself into the hole saw.
You could also use a Forstner (spelling?) bit which just "shaves" the hole
rather than cutting the diameter.
Been there done that!
**C
Maybe you could try spraying the hole saw with WD-40 as you cut. Try it on
a scrap piece first to see. Later Kermit.
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 10:02 AM
Subject: ShopTalk: club display
David at Vector Golf sent this along and fo
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