RALPH: the whole reason taper tip shafts came about was to create a "swaged" or locked assembly with the clubhead back in times when epoxies did not exist and glues were not that strong. Epoxies today are incredibly strong so even if you don't get a tight lock on tapping/hammering the shaft down into the bore, you will get enough holding power from the epoxy. Still, best to really clean out the bore, especially the bottom, rough the tip of the shaft heavily and slam the shaft down firmly into the hosel so you feel that it is bottomed out. And while the mallet approach will work ok, day in and day out the method for force and speed I see the most in any shop/factory I have visited is to apply the epoxy to the tip and inside of bore, insert the shaft with a spinning motion, hold the head by the blade in the right hand, the shaft about 12" below the head in the left hand, and while pushing the two parts together with both hands, slam the butt of the shaft down on the cement or a metal plate 2-3 times to feel the shaft move down to the bottom of the bore.
TOM W -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Ralph Harwood Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 7:21 AM To: Shoptalk Subject: ShopTalk: question about taper shafts I am getting ready to re-shaft some taper heads for the first time. Will it be necessary for me to use something like a small mallet to wedge in the shaft to the head if the shaft does not bottom out? I have concerns about the shaft wiggling out even with real good epoxy. Thanks! Ralph
