Al,
The air always get very clear here when the temps are way down. Can look
across the valley and see the Smokies (about 40 miles) covered with snow. Used
to go hiking in winter non-golf weather...always exceptionally beautiful up
there, especially along the Appalachian Trail at 6,000+ feet. Temps there last
night were about -10 to -20°F with 40 mph winds, and probably higher winds in
the gaps. I've been there on nights like that, but when the temperature was in
the +20s. Sounds like a freight train coming right at you and blasts the
powdered snow against the fir trees, coating them with a hard, white frosting. I
seal up the tent and get toasty in my -20° rated sleeping bag. By the time
the sun comes up, everything is a post card picture setting.
I start at Cade's Cove about 8:30 AM in a light breeze and
by mid-morning it's dead quiet. Body heats up climbing steadily the
first two or three miles on a trail inclined across the steep
sunny side of the mountain. Am doing a 12 mile loop. Some places on the
trail the drifts get a few feet high, other places are blown
clean. Strip down to a Polartec over mock turtleneck and keep going. Five
miles to Russell Field. On top just after 11 AM, I stop for hot
soup from my thermos at a spot I can see at least for 20 miles down the Valley.
Put the windbreaker back on...a good breeze is whistling softly across the
mountain top through the leafless branches and dark green, snow-frosted
rhodendendron clumps as I walk up to the shelter and head for Little
Bald. Have climbed almost 3,000 feet. Nobody and not even any animal tracks
up here. Trail is blown almost clean on the ridges. Tree trunks are stark
skeletens against snow...powdered white on one side and black on the
other. Climb through an occasional blowdown that couldn't stand up to
the winds anymore. May be up above 20° by now. Really breathing well in the
clean air up here. Spence Field is 2-1/2 miles along the AT from Russell Field.
Climb slightly, boots crunching in the dry snow, for 2 miles to Mt. Squires
at about 5100 feet and then descend into the Spence Field gap. There's a
beautiful grassy bald here in summer that almost always has a small herd of deer
eyeballing the hikers, there're weather-blown, pink-flowered trees in April,
Flame Azaleas in May, flowering Laurel and Rhododendron before June, a
few blueberries toward September. The deer are all down in Cade's Cove
this time of year and now there're only the skeletons of the squatty trees
sticking up out of the snow and some bare rock blown clean by the wind. I hunker
down behind a Rhodo clump, enjoy the view into Carolina, have a drink and a
couple of Trail Mix bars, then head down an old road the locals called Bote
Mountain Road. There were once two routes where a road was planned to get from
the Tennessee side to the Carolina side. This road was the route they voted
for...or "boted for" as the Cherokees called it. In the 1940's, you could still
drive up to the top at Spence Field if you had a Model A with enough ground
clearance. The National Park still keeps it in passable condition for horses and
hikers. Mile and a half goes fast as I jump over seeping spring water which
freezes to slick ice on the road, then I turn left down Anthony Creek
trail for the welcome downhill four miles and back where I started. Do
those miles fast. The sun is dropping behind the mountain and the tall,
grayish Tulip Poplar tree trunks down here are all a golden orange in
the low mid-afternoon light. Stop at a couple of creek crossings to see if I can
spot any trout in the bluish, snow-melt tinted water and then head for the car.
The heater will feel good...walking in snow all day is draining, but I've never
felt better.
Sure do miss those mountains. Maybe next year when I get my legs back
in shape.
Bernie
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