Hey Sleaze,

What a great post. I envy your brave, adventurous spirit and frugalness. At 76 
I have the will and ability to follow in your footsteps but not the freedom. I 
would play it safe (except for the highways) and confine my travels to the many 
as yet unseen glorious places within the confines of the USA. You and yours 
take care in those strange and exotic lands so you may return to tell us of 
your great adventures.

Fritz in the caveless flatlands of Houston.



________________________________
From: bmorgan...@aol.com [mailto:bmorgan...@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 10:44 AM
To: texascavers@texascavers.com
Subject: [Texascavers] The good old days aren't over!

Rod says: "Cheapskate travels weren't just in Mexico. Cavers found ways to 
travel cheaply wherever we went back then."

What? Are you guys getting too old to have inexpensive fun?? The good old days 
still aren't over for those willing to go far enough afield in search of 
adventure!

I've seen my fortunes rise and fall, and for the last seven years or so they 
have been on the rocks, but that hasn't stopped me from having fun by going 
caving in far away places. Since my last major infusion of cash I've been to 
Thailand twice with side trips to Laos, Cambodia, and Burma, and several 
shorter trips to Central America. People say, "Well, it must be nice to be 
rich!" To which I reply that I am nearly destitute which even my friends barely 
believe. The secret is to live a debt free life, use frequent flyer miles 
derived from credit card use, and to be willing to travel by the seat of your 
pants and to live like a local.

Two years ago I flew to Bangkok for a total of $61 in fees and taxes, then took 
a perfectly acceptable room in Banglamphu (AKA Hippie heaven!) for six big bux. 
Then I took a sleeper train all the way across the entire country to Viengtiane 
Laos for thirteen dollars. A comfortable modern bus then took me south to 
Khammouane province in the heart of the karst (right next to where the world's 
largest cave was discovered in Vietnam). Unfortunately I fell ill in Thakek, 
but if one must be sick, what a great place to do it in! My spacious 
comfortable room was $5. The food was spectacularly good and dinner averaged 
$2. After I recovered a bit I started renting motor scooters for the inflated 
tourist price of $7/day and began to explore the unbelievably beautiful karst. 
Ancient villages with huge caves and azure karst resurgences were everywhere I 
looked. Eventually I pissed off the Commie authorities by entering closed 
areas, and especially by sneaking around in the jungle (actually monsoon 
forest) by myself, an activity that they considered suspicious when undertaken 
by an American "of a certain age" (At 63 I could have been the guy who bombed 
their village!). So they sent the army after me. It seemed wise to find a fresh 
venue for my ongoing adventures so I fled the country back to Thailand where 
nobody cares what you do.

Thailand has a great National Park system similar to our own. The main 
difference is in style of management. In America our national parks are full of 
handrails and signs saying "Stay on the trail. Do this. Don't do that!", and 
the rangers are glorified possum cops there to make sure you don't have any 
fun. In Thailand it is assumed that you will play nicely with others so 
everyone does. It is also assumed that you will not be so foolish as to follow 
elephant trails so there are no signs saying not to. Delicious food and ice 
cold beer are always available because it would never occur to the authorities 
not to invite several of the local Grannies to set up thatched roof concessions 
catering to your every whim. The whole idea is to have fun!

So I took busses to National Parks in all corners of the country. Entry fees 
were generally around $3. Many of the rangers I met were so impressed by my 
self sufficient camping style that they charged nothing for camping no matter 
how long I stayed, after all, I was causing no impact! I mountain biked, hiked, 
illegally followed elephant trails for many miles, canoed down rivers, and 
visited countless beautiful waterfalls and caves.

When it was all said and done the two month trip didn't cost me much more than 
it would have cost to stay home.

Now I'm still destitute but my Sweetie and I are going back this winter for 
another two months, Yahoo! The tentative plan is to spend a month in northern 
Laos following the Nam Ou from its confluence with the Mekong near Louang 
Prabang all the way upstream to the remote region where China, Vietnam, and 
Laos all come together. The Nam Ou is the largest trib to the Mekong in Laos. 
There is only one bridge, the entire watershed is effectively roadless, all 
traffic is along the river in small boats or on forest trails. The whole of 
northern Laos is mountainous and densely forested. Imagine West Virginia 
hundreds of years ago, only inhabited by wild and woolly hill tribes who dress 
in colorful costumes while carrying ancient muskets and rusted swords on their 
way to tend the opium patch in the bottom of the sinkhole. Needless to say, 
there are caves everywhere!

That should wear our butts out, so a bit of R&R on the glorious beaches of 
southern Thailand will be in order. Once our tans have recovered it will be 
time to head up to Umphang along the Burmese frontier to continue my 
explorations there. Umphang is considered to be the most remote place in 
Thailand and is culturally part of Burma. Last time I was there I visited the 
stunningly beautiful Ti Lor Su waterfall (google it), which, though heavily 
visited is remote and surrounded by wilderness. The entire enormous waterfall 
is made of travertine, think rimstone pools 500 feet high by 1500 feet across.

While in Umphang I heard of a place downstream called La Ka To lake. The only 
available description is "a blue lake surrounded by jungle and wild animals". 
It is clearly visible on Google earth as an azure karst window in the verdant 
wilderness. If you would like to creme your jeans here are the coordinates: Lat 
15.659265, Long 98.813834. The last time I tried to go there the area was off 
limits due to fighting along the nearby Burmese border (The brave Karen against 
the evil Burmese government).

Getting to La Ka To (if I can get there?) will be the only significantly 
expensive part of the whole two month trip because I will have no choice but to 
hire a licensed outfitter with rubber rafts. I purely hate that!

So I hope this serves as an inspiration to other impoverished old farts, and as 
a rebuttal to those on this list who don't know me and have been saying that I 
am not a "real" caver (Because I don't go to grotto meetings or map nerd 
holes?). Get a life, it's easy to do and even cheap!

Sleazeweazel

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