NoOp wrote:
On 11/13/2008 06:00 AM, Mike Scott wrote:
James Knott wrote:
...
So,all you need now is a cheap ink jet printer that'll handle 3M (10')
sheets of paper. ;-)
That's perhaps not so ":-)".
Some printer drivers will automatically segment oversized output; all
you need is a tube of glue.......
For linux I use PhotoPrint:
http://www.blackfiveservices.co.uk/photoprint.shtml
and of course only the finest Elmer's glue :-)
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There has been enough dancing on the size problem that I should add this
to the pile. I'm running Linux (Slackware 10.2) and had NO problems
compiling using/it.
There is a program out there that will convert a lot of formats to an
autosizing file. It is called sam2p and was written by Szabó Péter
(Note: Per Péter;
Hungarian names are in a different order. Please call me Péter
(pronunciation: é is like a in fake, e is like in tent).
)
I just checked (11/14/08) and it is available via:
http://www.inf.bme.hu/~pts/sam2p-latest.tar.gz
Read the README!! Should compile on many platforms.
I use it to create files that I can send to both the plotters and the
printers without having to constantly re-scale/re-print/re-send. It
works great. Our HP brand plotters have PostScript drivers 'built-in'
but the desktops need to get the sam2p file processed to their
respective formats. If I want a big sheet I send the file to a plotter
and if I want paper for the filling cabinet I send same file to printer.
Results are as expected, big on big and small on small.
If you don't have big sheet capability, Elmer's glue or Rubber Cement
are your next best friends. :)
In case you were wondering, 15% overlap (fore,aft and sides) allows for
"seamless" final after blank edges are trimmed and tiles are edge
matched. I do suggest orthorectification of images with relief in them
prior to mosaicking. For panoramics, make sure an imaginary line from
center of face of film (or equivalent) down through panhead and down
through top of tripod is vertical as measured from behind camera and
from 90 degrees on left or right side. (Like a string on a rock?) The
panhead (camera base) needs to be level before taking the picture and
the height should not change per set. A carpenter's level works really
good. As you pan (rotate) the camera, try to visually side overlap by 15
to 20% of total picture width. Whether digital or darkroom, size the
next frame in sequence to the last by matching images in overlap area.
If full circle is done, match all by working to right and then start
over and go left. Anchor on the front frame and use average of middle
frame of the two sweeps and repeat process for each of the two half
circles to get averaged frame for the 90 degree marks and run both
sweeps for all 4 quadrants and be done. The 1/8 circle frames should be
close enough to each other to void any need for further effort.
OR use a photo program that has a 'stitch'. Be advised that it too may
need some help. Typically, the more expensive the program the less the
help required. The more perfectionist the creator, the more effort and
time and money required. But that we already knew. :)
Steve
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